For all of you brave and handy mechanics who went with mechanical group on this frame... Please tell me, is it THAT painful? I've routed countless of cables through mtb frames, but still virgin with regards to integrated handlebars.
I was keen on getting di2 105, but damn, not sure I wanna cash out thousand+ € on it. I found really cheap 105 2x12 mechanical on Ali for 350€ (shifters, f+rd and hydro brake callipers), and that leaves me with only cranks, chain and 2 rotors to buy.
It's not the money that's the issue, it's the bang for buck issue. If so many road bikes now come with mechanical groups, I don't see why couldn't I go with it, except if the shifting perf will suck. I get it, internal routing will be pita, but once I do that, what's left to be sorry about? Couple ms faster shifting? Dont give a damn about that. RD/FD indexing? Not a problem, and from my mtb experience with shimano 12sp, they are so damn rock solid and once you set them up, they can go really forever without a issue.
Advise me please, my roadie elders.
I built 4 VB w sensah mechanical. And 5 with ltwoo electronic. if you take your time, you will manage, plenty of videos online on how to proceed. Things to keep in mind:
Not all frames are mechanical compatible (this one is)
route the right hoses around the steerer, there's little room for error (dont route them all on one side, don't kink them...).
Be mindful of assembly sequence (spacers are usually 2 part, but headset bits will not be, so make sure you have the right bits in the right order in the right orientation before you route the hoses through the bars.
Bends in the bar mean the hoses will not freely slide unless you're very lucky / have a forgiving cockpit, so route the frame 1st, then the bars, and that will be the worst bit.
Obviously, you can't do it without a bike stand, and even then, you'll probably need tools like a routing kit (5 bucks), fine picks and files (ditto).
Dont forget to grease bearings area, as you really wont want to service that nightmare often.
Push extra hose into the frame as much as you can, because if you put the bike in a box for travel, you may have to disconnect things, and re-bleed brakes, cutting down hose, putting new olives...
I prefer plastic C rings & plastic spacers because it's easier to compress and is more forgiving. You might have issues with headset bits rubbing on the frame, so you might think you're done only to realize you have to undo everything to add something somewhere so it doesnt rub.
Anticipate and make sure you have good / strong lighting where you work.
Over the summer i swapped my cockpit on my er9 bike. It still took me 2 days...
None of this is fun. Good luck.
