Crankset clicking - Evosid - where to start?

[lantz]

So, I thought I had this resolved, and I've made some progress, but I've got a 1x Evosid crankset on a new gravel build and it's functionally almost perfect, the *one* issue is that when I put power into the pedals there's a.. almost tensioned-feeling.. creak/click. Some observations as I've worked on it:

- I feel it through my pedals and into my shoe.
- It's almost exclusively left side, but I have observed it on the right side.
- It's specifically at the.. call it 10 o'clock stroke of the left pedal when the power is being exerted *forward* and down.
- It almost feels like it clicks forward, then releases back when I lay off the pedal or pedal backwards.
- It's not regular, and takes quite a bit of power (think a 230lb dude going up a 5% grade and increasing cadence)
- But when it happens, it happens consistently.

I've tightened the crankarms down, without having a 50+nm torquewrench, I don't want to overtighten, but I have a feeling it's just a matter of getting those threads snug?

I've pulled the BB out, checked the bearings, listened for any indicator there, and nothing doing there.

My hunch is it's in the interface of the internal crankarm and the spindle - anyone seen/solved something like this before?

[jonathanf2]

Does it happen on all cogs or only in the climbing low gear? If it's all cogs, it could be a BB/crankset issue, if it's only in climbing gears it could be something else.

I'd double check your pedals if they're secure. Check the freehub if it's well greased and/or check if creaking happens only on-saddle which could indicate the seat post needing carbon paste or tape to reduce any micro movements. Also check if your saddle needs carbon paste as well.

I was having similar issues, but only in climbing gears. I figured it was related to my seat post after taking apart my BB and crankset.

[lantz]

Does it happen on all cogs or only in the climbing low gear? If it's all cogs, it could be a BB/crankset issue, if it's only in climbing gears it could be something else.

I'd double check your pedals if they're secure. Check the freehub if it's well greased and/or check if creaking happens only on-saddle which could indicate the seat post needing carbon paste or tape to reduce any micro movements. Also check if your saddle needs carbon paste as well.

I was having similar issues, but only in climbing gears. I figured it was related to my seat post after taking apart my BB and crankset.

Yeah, all cogs.

Should have specificed, not a pedal issue - 3 different pedals with 2 different cleat sets (crankbros, spd and flats) and I can get it to creak by applying force directly to the crankarm while standing alongside the bike, so not the seatpost, seat or pedals.

[jonathanf2]

Yeah, all cogs.

Should have specificed, not a pedal issue - 3 different pedals with 2 different cleat sets (crankbros, spd and flats) and I can get it to creak by applying force directly to the crankarm while standing alongside the bike, so not the seatpost, seat or pedals.

Is your chainring bolts torqued to 8nm? I'm guessing the EVOSID is a 3 bolt style crankset. Also try rocking the crankset back-n-forth in the BB to see if there's any minor play. Even if you think the crank is secure, it might not be fully locked in. If that doesn't work, I'd try another crankset (preferably with a steel axle) to see if it still creaks. If it does even after swapping out, it could be the BB not being secure or needing extra grease.

[jonathanf2]

It could also be that you weigh too much for your crankset! 

In that case, I'd just go find a 1x GRX crank and call it a day!

[lantz]

Is your chainring bolts torqued to 8nm? I'm guessing the EVOSID is a 3 bolt style crankset. Also try rocking the crankset back-n-forth in the BB to see if there's any minor play. Even if you think the crank is secure, it might not be fully locked in. If that doesn't work, I'd try another crankset (preferably with a steel axle) to see if it still creaks. If it does even after swapping out, it could be the BB not being secure or needing extra grease.

All excellent points.

- I fully torqued the chainring on install and double checked when I pulled it all apart.
- As far as I can tell, no play in the crank within the BB - I use a wavey spacer on the drivetrain side and 3 spacers and the preload ring and it is tightened down with as much care and intention as I've ever installed a crankset, lol.
- I thought the bb may not have been fully set in the body as well, so I went in on it. I've got antiseize compound on the threads, but it is... in there... pretty appropriately snug.
- I'll have to swap another crankset in to test, currently flying to Denver for some riding in Steamboat, I'll be annoyed by it the whole time, I'm sure.

Could very well be that my big ass is just too much as well, that's a fair critique hehe.

[bussoff]

also having this problem. evosid crankset too. switched pedals, still there. switched bb, still there. checked wheelset too if there were any ratchet issue, still creaking. finally replaced with a good old square tapered crankset from the parts bin. And now the noise is gone. i believe its the crank itself. although i have to admit mine is a little (not little) dirty so i'll try to clean it first and see if anything changes.

i know cleaning should have been the first step but here we are. 

[lantz]

also having this problem. evosid crankset too. switched pedals, still there. switched bb, still there. checked wheelset too if there were any ratchet issue, still creaking. finally replaced with a good old square tapered crankset from the parts bin. And now the noise is gone. i believe its the crank itself. although i have to admit mine is a little (not little) dirty so i'll try to clean it first and see if anything changes.

i know cleaning should have been the first step but here we are. 

I resolved this, twice, it's entirely about torquring the crankarms. I had to crank them down to a point of feeling like I over-torqued them. Since they call for 54nm (I think) torque, that's something that I can't measure with my tools, so just had to put some power into tightening it down.

[Jet the Panda]

I had a clicking drive train for 1 ride and figured out it was because I hadn't routed my chain through my derailleur properly

[pushpush]

Although a totally different crankset, I've experienced this exact problem. Your description is spot on.

In my case, it wound up being the preload ring. Simply backing it off, resetting the tension, and cranking the screw tight resolved the problem for me. I never really figured out why this was a problem, but I was super happy to figure it out. That sound was making me insane.

[lantz]

Although a totally different crankset, I've experienced this exact problem. Your description is spot on.

In my case, it wound up being the preload ring. Simply backing it off, resetting the tension, and cranking the screw tight resolved the problem for me. I never really figured out why this was a problem, but I was super happy to figure it out. That sound was making me insane.

I suspected the preload ring as well and spent a *lot* of time working on getting it right, but even when it felt correct, it was still clicking. Wompwomp.

[courdacier]

had the same thing happen to me - had to grease both axle bolts and re-torque them. it sounds like they're going to snap.
didn't even think of the DS bolt initially b/c I'm so used to bonded Shimano and Sram cranks, then i was like "oooh, removable axle, how cool"

[jonathanf2]

I had clicking issues on my current gravel bike and have fully resolved the issues. It can be a combination or an individual set of issues causing problems. I was able to narrow it down to 3 potential problems.

1. Regular thru-axles that require the hex wrench, might not be torqued down enough. I swapped to thru axles with handles. That alone helped stop disc rotor rubbing I had on my front fork when riding out of saddle

2. The freehub might not be properly seated. I would double check if there is any play with the hub to make sure it's not loose. I'm running XD freehubs and that was a problem I was having until I thoroughly checked and secured the freehubs.

3. Certain SRAM style pre-load cranksets might be problematic. I messaged the Mangoes Cycling Store who happen to be one of the main seller for the Riro carbon cranksets. They told me to use that crankset with 68-73mm bottom brackets only. That crankset only has a 105mm length spindle. I believe the EVOSID/Zeroing crankset only has a 109mm spindle length and while some sellers say it's fine for BB86 T47/86.5mm BB shells, it still might have issues.

Anyways, I have a Ceccotti RF25 gravel frame on order (same as the SPCycle G056) and now I'm wondering if I should have went with a threaded 68mm BSA frameset instead! I'm finding T47 just as confusing, if not more so than other formats.

[lantz]

I had clicking issues on my current gravel bike and have fully resolved the issues. It can be a combination or an individual set of issues causing problems. I was able to narrow it down to 3 potential problems.

1. Regular thru-axles that require the hex wrench, might not be torqued down enough. I swapped to thru axles with handles. That alone helped stop disc rotor rubbing I had on my front fork when riding out of saddle

2. The freehub might not be properly seated. I would double check if there is any play with the hub to make sure it's not loose. I'm running XD freehubs and that was a problem I was having until I thoroughly checked and secured the freehubs.

3. Certain SRAM style pre-load cranksets might be problematic. I messaged the Mangoes Cycling Store who happen to be one of the main seller for the Riro carbon cranksets. They told me to use that crankset with 68-73mm bottom brackets only. That crankset only has a 105mm length spindle. I believe the EVOSID/Zeroing crankset only has a 109mm spindle length and while some sellers say it's fine for BB86 T47/86.5mm BB shells, it still might have issues.

Anyways, I have a Ceccotti RF25 gravel frame on order (same as the SPCycle G056) and now I'm wondering if I should have went with a threaded 68mm BSA frameset instead! I'm finding T47 just as confusing, if not more so than other formats.

This post was created about an issue on the SPCycle G056 and the Evosid Crankset, using the T47, and I was able to get it to work without issues after just straight up _cranking_ down the crankarm bolt, it just takes a lot of torque, tbh.

[courdacier]

3. Certain SRAM style pre-load cranksets might be problematic. I messaged the Mangoes Cycling Store who happen to be one of the main seller for the Riro carbon cranksets. They told me to use that crankset with 68-73mm bottom brackets only. That crankset only has a 105mm length spindle. I believe the EVOSID/Zeroing crankset only has a 109mm spindle length and while some sellers say it's fine for BB86 T47/86.5mm BB shells, it still might have issues.

that's really good to know b/c they don't normally list those dimensions in the description. probably a good practice to just message the store to confirm.