Workswell WCB-M-062

[artvandelay]

Thanks guys! a 36T chainring is on its way.

[tripleDot]

I'm gonna take back what I said about the 38T, turns out that it fits because of a pair of spacers for my press fit bb.  Hope I didn't misled anyone.

[Jar_head]

Last time I checked the seatpost and the seattube I found this:



The tube delaminated inside. It's not really a crack, just the inner layers of carbon came off. On the outside you can't see anything.
Since then I competed in one more race and nothing changend. So might be allright. But I'm not happy with it though. Someone else got that too??

[activ3]

I have a M-062 that I purchased last June from SobatoStore on eBay (which seemed to be Workswell direct after emailing them a few times) and it has developed a loud creaking noise from the bottom bracket area. I ordered a PF92 version that has a metal insert in the carbon. I changed the BB, applied Loctite, changed the crank, and it still has a horrible creaking noise. I've determined that it must be from where the metal insert meets the carbon. I've contacted that same eBay store and am now awaiting their reply. Hopefully they're as responsive and helpful as the stories I've read in this thread! I have easily over a thousand miles on the frame with no other issues.

[carbonazza]

As mentioned multiple times in this forum, the noise in a carbon frame may not come from where you think.
There is so much movements when you pedal, that the headset, seatpost, saddle, pedals, etc. can make the frame resonate as well or even better than a BB.

[activ3]

Understood. I first suspected the seatpost, but even with the post and saddle completely removed, the noise is still there. The creaking is audible only when putting power down. I own 2 other brand name carbon bikes that I've built from the frame up as well, and I've been pretty impressed with the Workswell so far too.

[RS VR6]

I had a ticking noise from the bike that drove me nuts for months. It ended up being my seat clamp. I turned it to where the bolt is facing forward...no more problem. Then a creaking noise started coming from where I thought was the bottom bracket. Only had it when I was climbing something steep. Cleaned the BB, still there. Cleaned the headset, nope...replaced the bearings...nope. Greased my pedal spindles...nope. One night...for whatever reason...I decided to take my rear wheel off. Turns out that my rear axle was loose. Tightened it down and my creaking went away.

[adbl]

It's crazy where creaks come from! I'm fighting one now from my crank area. I replaced the bearings in my bottom bracket and still there. I took apart the bottom bracket, cleaned and greased the threads. Torqued to specs and still creaking. Now i can feel it in the pedals on the down stroke. Rebuilt the pedals, still there. I have a RaceFace Turbine Cinch crank and from what i've heard the chainring can creak where the face meets the crank arm. I'm going to take it all apart today, clean it and grease everything. At least i know it's not coming from anywhere else since i can feel it in the pedals 

[activ3]

That's a similar issue I'm dealing with. I changed the crankset, pedals, etc and it did not go away. I'm thinking it could be from where the metal BB insert meets the carbon frame.

[adbl]

Well, i sorted out my issue yesterday. I knew the issue was coming from the crank so i went to take it apart only to find the bolt holding the drive side to the spindle was loose. Didn't make sense to me. I run a RaceFace Turbine Cinch crank. Come to find out i put the crank together the last time i serviced it dry and therefore it got bound up on the splines and never seated all the way. So, i cleaned everything, greased the splines, tightened everything back up and i could feel the crank arm bottom out on the spindle. Bolt stays tight and everything is dead silent now. Lesson learned.

Now i discovered i have the classic seatpost creak  Took that out, cleaned the frame (as much as i could reach) the seatpost and put it back together with carbon assembly paste. It is much quieter but still makes a little noise. I could chase this around forever (as i know this is a common problem with carbon frames and posts) but as long as it doesn't get any worse i'm sure i won't hear a thing on the trail (i hope).

[RS VR6]

Now i discovered i have the classic seatpost creak  Took that out, cleaned the frame (as much as i could reach) the seatpost and put it back together with carbon assembly paste. It is much quieter but still makes a little noise. I could chase this around forever (as i know this is a common problem with carbon frames and posts) but as long as it doesn't get any worse i'm sure i won't hear a thing on the trail (i hope).

If you're seat clamp is facing the front...try turning it around so that the bolt is pointing towards the front of the bike. It worked for me.

[adbl]

If you're seat clamp is facing the front...try turning it around so that the bolt is pointing towards the front of the bike. It worked for me.

Hmmmm, interesting idea. My clamp has an arrow on it and you're supposed to align it with one of the slots in the frame but it might be an idea to try different positions. I'll give it a go!

[quim.pt]

Hello
It's the second time that I have problems with the rear 12mm axle ..
The original Nuts don't "Works well" 

The original axle are dead (I broken a litle piece inside), and now I buy this one, but the Nuts is not compatible with the original dropout





Somebody have any idea to fix it or know other Nuts possible to use?

Regards

[carbonazza]

I used this one on all my bikes: https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/dt-swiss-rws-e-thru-12x142mm-aluminium-thru-axle-454335

But tried this one recently, it hasn't a lot of km, but it looks to work very well too, and a bit cheaper.
It is only alloy, no plastic parts like the DT Swiss.
The action is a little smoother on the DT Swiss, not to tighten but just to place the handle in position after tightening.

[quim.pt]

carbonazza, I try to use the nut has provide by the Axle (Coluer Bikes) and It's fit's good!!
 The Wheel don't have clearance and I use the hand to hold the nut and screw the axle, the clip do pressur on the nut and fix in the right position
When I used the original axle, I did the same, hand to hold, etc ... and I didn't have problems ...
Now i'm going to mount the rear derailleur and check if is gonna "Works well" 
I'm gonna pray