German IP-036 SRAM EAGLE 1x12 Drivetrain

[carbonazza]

Routing

I'm very surprised you have the routing that complex. On my brother's bike, with an eagle and F/Left R/Right brakes too, it went quite easy.
We only had to fiddle a little to pass the connectamajig of the rear shock.

If you plan to change the routing, let me know and we can take a picture or two.

[DandyAndy]

I routed my rear brake line under the pivot, between the crank and the pivot.  I then put one of the snap on rubber cable savers in that same spot.  Seemed two work fine, never had any problems with the brake line being routed there.  I did start to see some rubbing on my brake line where it entered into the frame up by the head tube though.

I also wanted to route just along the crank. It seemed obvious at first - just a straight line. However! When I moved pivots the whole range - line snaps in that cleft between the pivot and BB. It can crash the line. Can you post some pics? May be I'm overthinking the issue.

[DandyAndy]

To set the crown race, all I used was a small block of wood and a rubber mallet.  However, many people say just buy a short length of PVC pipe of a particular diameter from your local home improvement store, and tap the crown race down using the pipe and a couple wacks with a hammer.  It doesn't really need to be a press fit fixture as sophisticated as you show.

Yep. I just whacked mine against the floor couple of times - sat perfectly. The press fit is for the star nut. 

[Carbon_Dude]

I routed my rear brake line under the pivot, between the crank and the pivot.  I then put one of the snap on rubber cable savers in that same spot.  Seemed two work fine, never had any problems with the brake line being routed there.  I did start to see some rubbing on my brake line where it entered into the frame up by the head tube though.

I also wanted to route just along the crank. It seemed obvious at first - just a straight line. However! When I moved pivots the whole range - line snaps in that cleft between the pivot and BB. It can crash the line. Can you post some pics? May be I'm overthinking the issue.

Here you go, like I said though, I added a cable saver where the brake line touches the bottom bracket:

[DandyAndy]

Thanks. So, maybe I really need to think less and just go straight for the port. None of you had issues caused by working stays shifting the whole line because there is no flex loop? I mean it's a significant shift - 5-8mm...

[alexdi]

I can't speak to cable routing, but when I replaced the shifting and suspension control cables on my (formerly Carbon Dude's) CS-036, I used wire shrink to protect the cables at the frame hole exits. It's terrific stuff. There's no wear to speak of on those sections after a hundred miles. When I shorten the brake cables later, I'll throw in some shrink to replace the rubber protector visible on the left.

[Carbon_Dude]

Hey alexdi, good to see you joined the forums.  Your cable protection looks very good!  What size heat shrink tubing did you use?

[DandyAndy]

Thanx Alex! This is actually a great idea! So, I assume you do heat (shrink) the shrink? It is fixed, then.

[alexdi]

Thanx Alex! This is actually a great idea! So, I assume you do heat (shrink) the shrink? It is fixed, then.

Yes, indeed. I have a heat gun with a curved head that made it easy to bring them up to temperature without affecting the surrounding paint. The benefit of the tubing is significant on this frame because the frame exit holes have sharp edges. You could get away with using less of it than I did.

Carbon Dude, I pulled the tubing from this assortment:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EXKWRO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think it was the middle-right size.

[DandyAndy]

Rear shock

Never expected to get any troubles at this step. Rear shock mounting is the simplest step in the whole world! Yet the universe decided to prove me wrong.

So, i finally got my needle bearing - it was time to put my brand new shiny Monarch RT3. It started right at the very beginning.
1) Gliding bushings are fit so tightly in Rockshox (riding DT Swiss shock) - I was unable to remove it by myself and needed guys from LBS to do that for me. During all those attempts either I or LBS guys or both scratched and put little dents around the eyelet - so tightly the bushing sits!
2) To press-in the needle bearing I needed to remove rubber lips from my vice and press so hard I thought I gonna damage the bearing for sure!
3) For the front eyelet I just bought standard 21.8x8mm mounting 3 piece set, thinking that there is almost no movement in front, so why bother with a bearing... Am I just ignorant? I always thought that the bushing pin supposed to rotate in the gliding one... That is why it is called GLIDING! That is why it is coated with nylon or whatev! The bushing pin doesn't just slide in. It needed to be press fit. I pressed it against a wooden block and that wood got dents. So the bushing pin is now fixed, it is not gonna twist. Ok, I thought, bushing is going to twist around the shaft (shock bolt). Apparently not so easy. If you tighten the bolt with any strength it's enough to fix the bushing pin completely (against the frame), so the shock doesn't turn at all.

At the moment I see only 1 solution to that - put a liter of loctite in the bolt and do not tighten it seriously.

I mean, what a heck?! DT Swiss got a fancy mounting hardware, but there is never a problem fixing it. Rockshox is idiotically simple and yet...   

Update 09.01.2017

I attempted to solve this problem by ordering new Titanium shock bolts. Ordered 37mm ones, thinking that I'll shorten them a little. When the bolts arrived it appeared that our Chinese friends have their own understanding of standards. Given 37mm, is the total length of the bolt, not just the shaft as anyone would expect. So the length of the shaft was exactly the same as old shock bolts - 34mm. And no longer Ti recessed bolts are made by them.

Luckily, a standard aluminum profile sold in local building supplies stores has exactly needed dimensions - 8mmx1mm. I made a 3.1mm long spacer (and am left with another 1.5m of the profile  ). This gives a perfect axle length, so when I tighten it, the frame mounts are not compressed and in turn do not compress bushing pin.

The alternative was to source some longer steel bolts and cut them. Unfortunately, in Europe, those recessed bolts are not so easy to come by. 

This is how it looks:



For comparison - here are the standard shock bolts which come with 036 frame:



So, apparently my case is unique. No one else experiencing this problem with their shocks. Do you, guys, use shorter than recommended bushing kits?