Pro-Mance M9007 FS 29er 21lb build

[tripleDot]

Thank you for sharing all the info, I've ordered exactly the same saddle you recommended. Only wondering if you have an special seatpost as the saddle rails seems non rounded.

Can you post some pictures of the saddle rails.
I'm also very interested with this saddle.

[charlesrg]

Thank you for sharing all the info, I've ordered exactly the same saddle you recommended. Only wondering if you have an special seatpost as the saddle rails seems non rounded.

Can you post some pictures of the saddle rails.
I'm also very interested with this saddle.

Here it goes, they are just a bit oval, but worked fine on my ritchey seatpost.

[sissypants]

Enjoy, my saddle is still going strong!  I'm running this seatpost, which has a clamp mechanism which might actually fit the oval rails better.  Sorry, haven't taken a pic yet.  Maybe will get around to that soon.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-carbon-seapost-length-400mm-MTB-road-bicycle-seat-post-3k-carbon-seatpost-matte-190g/32749212918.html

[bxcc]

I have the GUB 1159 saddle and I'm a huge fan. Great lightweight saddle for under $50.

As for the rails, they are 7mm x 9mm oval rails. Most of the seat posts that use a top/bottom clamp should work fine as long as they have full rail support. The side clamp posts will not work or they will need a new clamp head. This style top/bottom clamp will NOT work as there isn't enough support for the carbon rails.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MTB-Road-Mountain-Bike-Seatpost-Bicycle-Seat-post-tube-27-2mm-30-9mm-31-6mm/332253684663?hash=item4d5bdce3b7:m:ms0aTd1UpyH7cPJ-gBFsoLg

[Klaster_1]

@sissypants nice build, the price negotiation and custom layup advices are interesting, next time I order anything open mold I'd ask around about available options too. Sad to see the frame go for sale, maybe I should get a gravel frame too a build up another bike from spare parts.

[Jerry]

Hello @sissypants,

Let me introduce myself first. I am Jerry and new to the Chiner community after many of you DIY bikers inspired me to build my own mountain bike. Thanks for that!

My chiner is also built around a 29er carbon Pro-Mance M7007 Super Light frame, size XL because I am tall guy. It is ready to race and the first riding impressions are very positive. But it need still some finetuning.

However, one very annoying thing is that when I select the rear shock, a RS Monarch RL 168x38, in full lock mode (lever fully to the familiar turtle), there is a lot of bouncing in the back end of the bike. It is as if my rear wheel has become the shape of an egg. In 'open mode' of the rear shock the bouncing has almost completely disappeared. Very strange, but in 'lock mode' is therefore hardly decent to cycle.
 
Are you, familiar with this problem? If so, how did you solve this annoying and inefficient 'pedal bob' problem? Or is there probably something wrong with the shock, even though that brand is new as mine?
 
Thanks in advance for your help.
 

[sclyde2]

Hello @sissypants,

Let me introduce myself first. I am Jerry and new to the Chiner community after many of you DIY bikers inspired me to build my own mountain bike. Thanks for that!

My chiner is also built around a 29er carbon Pro-Mance M7007 Super Light frame, size XL because I am tall guy. It is ready to race and the first riding impressions are very positive. But it need still some finetuning.

However, one very annoying thing is that when I select the rear shock, a RS Monarch RL 168x38, in full lock mode (lever fully to the familiar turtle), there is a lot of bouncing in the back end of the bike. It is as if my rear wheel has become the shape of an egg. In 'open mode' of the rear shock the bouncing has almost completely disappeared. Very strange, but in 'lock mode' is therefore hardly decent to cycle.
 
Are you, familiar with this problem? If so, how did you solve this annoying and inefficient 'pedal bob' problem? Or is there probably something wrong with the shock, even though that brand is new as mine?
 
Thanks in advance for your help.

Are you running a really small front chainring?  E.g. smaller than 32T.  It sounds like extreme anti squat to me, that it exaggerated when the compression damping is turned up.

[Jerry]

Hello,

Thanks for your comment.

Sorry, I'm not familiar yet with all the bike terminology, so I do not know what you mean by 'anti-squat'. I learn every day.
But I do know that I ride with a 30t chain ring at front. Is this a issue for the annoying 'bouncing'?

Greetings.

[sclyde2]

Anti squat can happen when the angle of the chain is such that the suspension extends when there is tension on the chain.  The main pivot on that bike is placed such that a chainring smaller than about 32t will produce such suspension extending under power.  I suggest you get a bigger chainring.  If you need a lower gear, get a bigger cog on your cassette.  There are brands that do cassettes with 50t cogs on 11 speed, if you don't have 12 speed.

[Jerry]

Hmm... so a 32t chainring solves everything? This was my intention already after the 30t ring is worn out.

Or is a 34t chainring in front the best option? I ride Sram Eagle, but doubt if I have the legs for a chainring bigger than 32t 

Great help anyway!

[sclyde2]

Even with a 32t, the main pivot is still above the chain on my bike.  But I like how it rides, and just leave the shock set with the least low speed compression damping, and still don't notice any Bob.  I actually think the frame I have (it is a Hong fu fm058, which I believe is pretty much the same) is designed for a 34t.  If I had a 50t rear cog, I certainly would be using a 34t chainring, and would probably run a little extra compression, and maybe look into getting a remote lockout.  If you want the suspension as active as possible under power, and you plan to habitually use a lockout, you should go for the biggest chainring possible.  These frames are somewhat copies of the Scott spark - Dunno if the main pivot is in the exact same position as the spark, but Nino schurter runs a 38t on his spark (he states it is mainly for reducing friction losses, but maybe he is also doing it to gain some traction on the rougher climbs).

[dontpanic]

Iam considering this frame but since I race alot of XC marathon races I would like to fit a 36t chainring up front. Can anyone confirm that a 36t chainring works with this frame?

[Jerry]

Even with a 32t, the main pivot is still above the chain on my bike.  But I like how it rides, and just leave the shock set with the least low speed compression damping, and still don't notice any Bob.  I actually think the frame I have (it is a Hong fu fm058, which I believe is pretty much the same) is designed for a 34t.  If I had a 50t rear cog, I certainly would be using a 34t chainring, and would probably run a little extra compression, and maybe look into getting a remote lockout.  If you want the suspension as active as possible under power, and you plan to habitually use a lockout, you should go for the biggest chainring possible.  These frames are somewhat copies of the Scott spark - Dunno if the main pivot is in the exact same position as the spark, but Nino schurter runs a 38t on his spark (he states it is mainly for reducing friction losses, but maybe he is also doing it to gain some traction on the rougher climbs).

Thank for the extra (technical) feedback.

My shock is a 168x38 RS Monarch RL. I can not specifically set the compression damping as far as I know. I can only choose between two fixed compression damping settings: 'open' and 'full lock'. Plus tune the rebound via a red rotary knob. That's it.

What shock do you recommend if I want to upgrade?

[sclyde2]

Iam considering this frame but since I race alot of XC marathon races I would like to fit a 36t chainring up front. Can anyone confirm that a 36t chainring works with this frame?

Depends on your chainline.  My fm058, which I believe is the same other than the non boost dropouts, fits a 34t with a chainline at 50mm (m980 xtr crank, race Face NW ring).  If you are running boost with a chainline over 50mm, I reckon you'd have no problem fitting a 36t.

[sclyde2]

Thank for the extra (technical) feedback.

My shock is a 168x38 RS Monarch RL. I can not specifically set the compression damping as far as I know. I can only choose between two fixed compression damping settings: 'open' and 'full lock'. Plus tune the rebound via a red rotary knob. That's it.

What shock do you recommend if I want to upgrade?

Don't worry about upgrading the shock.  Just get a bigger chainring.  Your "reverse" Bob (extreme anti squat) will be reduced if you get a bigger chainring.

I assume you mean 165x38.

I am running a cheapie manitou mcleod and I'm very happy with it.  But my 32t setup is more neutral than yours (though maybe slightly high on anti squat still).