Internal cabling IP-256 , dropper

[Jake]

Should I take out the liners that came with the frame once the cables are in place?

I am doing the cable for the rear mech now and I prefer to take the liner out....

I am going for 1x10 and want to use the hole for the front mech for an internally routed dropper seatpost.
A cable actuated dropper will probably be easier to install tan a hydraulic one and the hole where the cable enters the frame must probably be enlarged a bit.

I am also wondering how to do the cable for the rear brakes, does it fit in the liner?

[Carbon_Dude]

Should I take out the liners that came with the frame once the cables are in place?

I am doing the cable for the rear mech now and I prefer to take the liner out....

I am going for 1x10 and want to use the hole for the front mech for an internally routed dropper seatpost.
A cable actuated dropper will probably be easier to install tan a hydraulic one and the hole where the cable enters the frame must probably be enlarged a bit.

I am also wondering how to do the cable for the rear brakes, does it fit in the liner?

I don't have an IP-256 but based on my experience with my other two Chiner frames:

1)  When you say "liner", if you mean the knotted pull that is routed through the frame and sticking out at both ends, this is meant to be removed.  If you are talking about the cable routing sleeve inside the frame, that is not meant to be removed.

2) For your dropper seat post, if the hole is designed to feed bare cable, then the outer cable housing, or hydraulic line, will not fit unless you drill out the holes and even then, I am not sure the internal sleeving will allow you to route a hydraulic housing inside the frame.  I would suggest routing your dropper post cabling in the same fashion you would the front derailleur.

3)  The internal cable routing for the hydraulic brake lines is sized to fit that diameter of housing and will push right through.

[Jake]

Thanks CD

1) there is no knotted pull in my 256, just the cable routing sleeve. Once the cable is in this sleeve has to pushed into the frame or shortened or removed completely to fit fit the outer ferrules?? on the outer shift cable properly in the frame. Why not just remove it?

2) I am not going to use the sleeving, just the hole to get in

3) Not even the outer shift cable fits through that liner so hydraulic hose for the breaks which is thicker won't fit either.

Another thing: rear brake handle on the right?

[Carbon_Dude]

I must not fully understand your dilemma, perhaps if you posted some pictures.  I assume the IP-256 is similar to other Chiner frames in that the internal cable routing, or a some people call them, cable liners, are not meant to be removed.  If you ever change out your cables or brake lines, you will need the internal routing to help with installation of new cables or lines.

I have yet to see a Chiner frame that does not allow internal routing of a brake line, in the holes routed to the rear caliper.  If that were the case, nobody would purchase these frames.  If you chose to do things differently than they way the mfr intended, then you do so at the risk of not having proper shifting.  Not saying it won't work as I do not own this frame and maybe what you want to do is fine, just saying that's not typical for these frames.

Shift cable housing, and brake lines are two different diameters, ~4.25 for shifter cable housing, ~5.0 mm for hydraulic brake line.  I had zero issues with my IP-057 cable & brake routing.  My IP-033 was a bit different for the rear derailleur, I ran a full cable housing from the shift lever, through the frame, to the rear derailleur mech.  For the IP-057, I cut the cable housing at either end of the frame and installed a ferrule, so there is bare cable inside the frame.

I believe the IP-256 is like the IP-057, bare cable inside the frame for the front & rear derailleurs, and for the rear brake, the internal routing is sized to fit a hydraulic line and designed for the standard (at least in the US) right-rear brake lever setup.

UPDATE to this post:

Looking at the IP-256 on the XMIplay website, you must be specifically referring to the f/d cable routing only.  I see a piece of inner cable guide sticking up out of the frame.  Typically, for the front derailleur, you would run bare cable through the frame, out the cable guide (liner) and up to the f/d mech.  For your dropper seat post that you instead want to use this routing for, I suppose you would need to do something different as you probably do not want to see bare cable all the way up to your dropper seat post.  Since it was not designed for the dropper seat post, you will need to figure out how you want to do the cable routing.  As you said, the diameter of the f/d cable routing is not sized for a hydraulic line so your only choice is cabling.

I might first try cutting down the extra liner, and running cable housing from the frame up to the dropper post with a ferrule at each end.  Hopefully the ferrule does not slip into the frame.  If it all stays in place, the cabling should work up to the dropper post.

[Jake]

I installed the cable for the r/d , took out the liner when finished an managed to put back in.
I took it out again and will leave it out and keep it untill I want to replace the cable.

Next up is the rear brake cable, my brakes are Shimano XTR's
The brake cable does't fit through the liner that came with the IP-256 so i think I will just tape the liner and the brake cable together and try to get it throughmostly pushing and not pulling.
Anyone here with experience and advice here?
It is of course extra tricky because I don't want to lose to much brakefluid....

[MTB2223]

I installed the cable for the r/d , took out the liner when finished an managed to put back in.
I took it out again and will leave it out and keep it untill I want to replace the cable.

What do you think of the construction underneath the bottom bracket now your RD cable is installed? Do you think it will stay for a couple of years? I'm afraid of the wear at the point where the cable is going through the guidance

Next up is the rear brake cable, my brakes are Shimano XTR's
The brake cable does't fit through the liner that came with the IP-256 so i think I will just tape the liner and the brake cable together and try to get it throughmostly pushing and not pulling.
Anyone here with experience and advice here?
It is of course extra tricky because I don't want to lose to much brakefluid....

Maybe replace the liner with a stronger one (if you don't trust the one that already in it)? On my brake cables, which are new and unused, I've got caps on the ends. But I think I've to remove them, otherwise they will not fit the frame hole. I think I'm going to use tape to prevent losing brake fluid. And maybe pushing from the bottom to the top is the best way ?

[Carbon_Dude]

I installed the cable for the r/d , took out the liner when finished an managed to put back in.
I took it out again and will leave it out and keep it untill I want to replace the cable.

Next up is the rear brake cable, my brakes are Shimano XTR's
The brake cable does't fit through the liner that came with the IP-256 so i think I will just tape the liner and the brake cable together and try to get it throughmostly pushing and not pulling.
Anyone here with experience and advice here?
It is of course extra tricky because I don't want to lose to much brakefluid....

Guess I'm glad I did not purchase an IP-256, doesn't make sense that the liner would be removed for the r/d cable and that the rear brake line does not fit through the frame.

The IP-256 appears to have a cap at the exit point of the brake cable, is that removable?  Again, without pictures I am really in the dark as to why your frame does not seem to be correctly designed for cable routing.  I keep looking at the pictures on the XMIplay website and the routing appears to be very much the same as my IP-256 which worked out great, although I didn't try to run cabling for a dropper seat post but that seems to be beside the point of your R/D and brake line routing.

[brmeyer135]

Jake,
For your brakes, I would disconnect at the lever(leave current olive and piece....run that through, shouldn't lose any fluid...then look to cut the cable down.
Which XTR brakes did you go with?  Have you used them before?

[Jake]

Jake,
For your brakes, I would disconnect at the lever(leave current olive and piece....run that through, shouldn't lose any fluid...then look to cut the cable down.
Which XTR brakes did you go with?  Have you used them before?

I have got brand new 2014 XTR race brakes, the rear brake is much softer than the front and might need bleeding.

I have never shortened any hydr brake hose and also never ran them through frame and I didn't realize that the olive and connector would be on the end of the hose so the hole is a lot smaller...
On the other hand, the olive will not fit through the frame..
To illustrate this:

This also shows that the brake hose won't fit inside the liner provided so I will have to attach the brake hose to the liner somehow to get things done.

[Carbon_Dude]

Jake, I'm not seeing any pictures.  Sounds like you have already run your cables but for the sake of completeness I'll ask a few more questions.  For the brake line, did you try starting at the chain stay and pushing the line up to the top tube?  For the R/D, I would expect you should have cable housing from the lever to the frame, bare cable run inside the liner to the exit point in the chain stay, then housing from the chain stay to the R/D mech.  Looks like the IP-256 also has an access cover on the underside of the BB to help with cable routing, under the plate is some cable routing guides and from what I've seen those guides are sized for bare cable.

I continue to be curious as to why causing the cable routing on your IP-256 to be difficult.

[Jake]

Guess I'm glad I did not purchase an IP-256, doesn't make sense that the liner would be removed for the r/d cable and that the rear brake line does not fit through the frame.

The IP-256 appears to have a cap at the exit point of the brake cable, is that removable?  Again, without pictures I am really in the dark as to why your frame does not seem to be correctly designed for cable routing.  I keep looking at the pictures on the XMIplay website and the routing appears to be very much the same as my IP-256 which worked out great, although I didn't try to run cabling for a dropper seat post but that seems to be beside the point of your R/D and brake line routing.

I am not going to miss  the liner and  the rear brake line will fit through the frame ,it just doesn't fit through the liner.

The frame cable routing is ok the only problem is my inexperience in routing all cables internally.
 I will even be able to route a dropper cable completely or half internally !

[Jake]

Jake, I'm not seeing any pictures.  Sounds like you have already run your cables but for the sake of completeness I'll ask a few more questions.  For the brake line, did you try starting at the chain stay and pushing the line up to the top tube?  For the R/D, I would expect you should have cable housing from the lever to the frame, bare cable run inside the liner to the exit point in the chain stay, then housing from the chain stay to the R/D mech.  Looks like the IP-256 also has an access cover on the underside of the BB to help with cable routing, under the plate is some cable routing guides and from what I've seen those guides are sized for bare cable.
I continue to be curious as to why causing the cable routing on your IP-256 to be difficult.

I haven't done the brake line yet. I am planning to do it  tomorrow, I am just making up my mind how to do it....
Yes I am planning to start at the chainstay.. I still have to figure out how to use the sleeve as a pullwire.

The R/D is in, it is the bare cable in this picture, the sleeve you can see is waiting for my future dropper's cable


The cable routing on the 256 is not difficult!
I am just going slow because I don't want to make any stupid mistakes...and I am injured which will hopefully not last more than another week.

[MTB2223]

The R/D is in, it is the bare cable in this picture, the sleeve you can see is waiting for my future dropper's cable

I don't think you can use that part of the cable guide for your dropper. That cable guide leads you to the FD (at the back of your seat tube).
I don't what kind of cable the dropper have, cable or hydro. In case of cable, I think you need to use a full hose from the dropper, through your frame, to the handlebar. But as I said, I don't have any experience with a dropper.

[Carbon_Dude]

The cable routing on the 256 is not difficult!
I am just going slow because I don't want to make any stupid mistakes...and I am injured which will hopefully not last more than another week.

No problem, I'm glad it's not difficult and that you can run the brake internally.  However, I'm wondering about the liner that you say the line will not fit into.  On my IP-057 I had a hole at each end of the frame and just pushed the brake through from the chainstay and out the top tube.  The IP-256 must be different as I'm not able to remove the liner from my frame, although I can't say I ever needed to try.

I see your picture on my smartphone, not on my work computer.  Now that I see the picture, you show the olive not fitting through the hole.  The olive should not be able to fit through but your brake line, w/o the barb & olive will fit through just fine.  If you feel it's easier to pull out the liner and everything still works, I guess that's fine as the IP-256 might just be different than my other two Chiner frames.

[MTB2223]

Guess I'm glad I did not purchase an IP-256, doesn't make sense that the liner would be removed for the r/d cable and that the rear brake line does not fit through the frame.

The IP-256 appears to have a cap at the exit point of the brake cable, is that removable?  Again, without pictures I am really in the dark as to why your frame does not seem to be correctly designed for cable routing.  I keep looking at the pictures on the XMIplay website and the routing appears to be very much the same as my IP-256 which worked out great, although I didn't try to run cabling for a dropper seat post but that seems to be beside the point of your R/D and brake line routing.

The liner of the IP-256 is just a lose hose/guidance cable and should be removed at the end. They are not attached to the frame (see picture). 



The cap at the exit point of the brake cable can be removed.