Help me doublecheck my nooby first enduro build FM10

[GordanRF]

Hello, everyone. I'm looking to build a TanTan FM10 Frame. (Unless anyone has any suggestions for a better frame for 2020?). Here's my current build list so far.
I know the fork is pretty questionable but its only temporary at the moment and I saw it got some rave reviews for how cheap it was. I also will be buying brake rotors, bar, stem, seat, grips, tires, etc on amazon. Does anyone have any suggestions for the rear shock? What's the best for the geometry with 160mm travel fork? 200x57? Would this DNM 200mm 52mm travel shock work?
Was also going to just get some cheap 29er aluminum wheels on amazon unless anyone has any suggestions on good carbon wheels.

Other than that does this build look alright? Anything I'm missing? Thank you guys in advance, awesome to find a community like this.

EDIT: New buildlist after some advice, SX groupset to GX, 4 piston breaks, thru axle fork. Probably wont end up getting that fork but its a placeholder for now.
Still need some advice on 29er wheels for this.

[chetosmachine]

The fork is questionable to say the least. I would trade a carbon wheels expense and put the money in the fork.

[Jotegr]

I've seen so many SX derailleurs shatter along the fixing bolt area. Just be aware that it is a known and very common issue with SX and to a lesser extent NX as well. Personally I'd recommend the new 11 speed  Deore stuff if you can find it for a reasonable price, or just set aside some cash knowing at some point there's a chance you'll want to replace it with a GX derailleur.

I also can't recommend going with pedals with titanium axles. Even really nice ti axle pedals tend to snap all the time. For similar money you can probably get some knockoff RaceFace Chester nylon pedals with alloy axles that are going to be around the same weight anyway.

I agree with the other poster... cheap wheels a nice suspension are the way to go.

[acedeuce802]

I hate to say this on the Chinertown forum, but I think you'd be better off with a used lowish end FS bike for $1500 or a nice used hardtail for that much.  Everything you have is the cheapest of the cheap. 

[carbonazza]

...I also can't recommend going with pedals with titanium axles. Even really nice ti axle pedals tend to snap all the time.

I have two pairs of Time Atac pedals with Ti axles for years.
Maintaining them regularly and don't see any wear.

I tried Chinese ones, not the same story.
After a few months the axles were seriously sheared at contact points with bearings and bushing.

Where did you see them snap usually?
Is it something you could see coming by inspecting them?

[carbonazza]

I hate to say this on the Chinertown forum, but I think you'd be better off with a used lowish end FS bike for $1500 or a nice used hardtail for that much.  Everything you have is the cheapest of the cheap.

Don't you think Chinese components improve?
There are some brands that start to become something.
And such build could be seen as a starting point, that can then be upgraded if necessary later.

[GordanRF]

Don't you think Chinese components improve?
There are some brands that start to become something.
And such build could be seen as a starting point, that can then be upgraded if necessary later.

Yeah this was my thoughts exactly. I'm just going to replace stuff as it breaks and see how it goes.

[Jotegr]

I have two pairs of Time Atac pedals with Ti axles for years.
Maintaining them regularly and don't see any wear.

I tried Chinese ones, not the same story.
After a few months the axles were seriously sheared at contact points with bearings and bushing.

Where did you see them snap usually?
Is it something you could see coming by inspecting them?

I don't think it's something you can usually see coming. To be honest most of my experience comes from the handful of more popular brands in North America (which Time is not). This is also from someone who has worked in a shop for a number of years, and before that attended several years of an XC series that often pulled 200-300 riders each week. So my exposure is far, far higher than your average rider. I personally wouldn't worry about them snapping on a day to day basis (unless you're running the godawful crankbros TI pedals), but given the relatively few TI pedal spindles I've seen in total compared to other materials, I'd be extremely leery about getting a knockoff version, especially when something like the Chester pedal is so good, so light, and so cheap. If you're prepared to shell out for a high end, well branded, and warranty supported TI pedal, then I wouldn't worry about it too much!

[emu26]

Yeah this was my thoughts exactly. I'm just going to replace stuff as it breaks and see how it goes.

The only problem with that is, if you stick with the Himalo fork then your wheels will be QR so to upgrade your fork when and if you aren't happy you'll have to do the wheels at the same time.  It is ok buying on a budget but you have to keep the longer, bigger picture in sight.

Velomine have some cheap wheelsets, save some money there and get a more versatile fork.

[GordanRF]

What are some good thru axle 160mm forks I should check out? I can definitely spend more if its worth it. Also would you know what would be a good rear shock to pair it with? Thank you.

[carbonazza]

The only problem with that is, if you stick with the Himalo fork then your wheels will be QR so to upgrade your fork when and if you aren't happy you'll have to do the wheels at the same time. 

What a deal breaker.
But there are quite a few hubs that can be converted from QR to through axle, just by changing the end caps. So he could upgrade the fork without changing the wheel.
However a 110mm boost need some shims and is clunky.

[GordanRF]

What a deal breaker.
But there are quite a few hubs that can be converted from QR to through axle, just by changing the end caps. So he could upgrade the fork without changing the wheel.
However a 110mm boost need some shims and is clunky.

They actually have a 100mm x 15mm thru axle version. So I could just get that.

EDIT: updated the build list

[chetosmachine]

You can get a Deore 12v for almost half the price of that GX, or, or an XT-11v or slx 12v for those 400usd.
DT swiss e1900 are easy to get in europe for around 200, and are solid and reliable.

[emu26]

What a deal breaker.
But there are quite a few hubs that can be converted from QR to through axle, just by changing the end caps. So he could upgrade the fork without changing the wheel.
However a 110mm boost need some shims and is clunky.

Yeah I'm well aware of that, having just gone through the process of buying budget wheels.   The problem I see with that is if you are shimming to use a non-boost wheel in a boost frame or fork then you kind of defeat the purpose of boost. The whole point of boost is that it puts the spoke flanges wider which allows you to build a stronger wheel with less flex because the spokes are coming in at a wider angle. If the flange width isn't changing then you're not getting the benefit of the boost wheel.

They actually have a 100mm x 15mm thru axle version. So I could just get that.

EDIT: updated the build list

That would be a better option but you'll then have a boost rear non boost front unless you order the non-boost version of the FM10.  Nothing at all wrong with that, I almost did, but I decided that if I have to get new wheels anyway, as I do to take advantage of the 27.5 + size tyre profile, then I may as well go boost as well.

Not sure what country you are in but in Aus the 2nd hand market is flooded with Roval traverse 29 wheelsets for a reasonable price, if you're Stateside I would have thought you would pick up a set of them very cheap.  Have you looked at places like Pink bike? I wish the DT Swiss were as cheap here as they are in Europe.