FM1001 / FM1156 - 135mm frame

[filipes]

Two small changes that I have made.
I've removed my Zefal downtube armor today because it didn't really stick at the edges and started to leave black marks on the paint. Replaced it with a Nukeproof Mega Alloy Downtube protector I got from wiggle, fits really well, upper part of downtube got some clear frame protection installed.
https://abload.de/img/20230909_15042756c78.jpg

Modelled and 3D printed a small flap for the main pivot gap between main and rear triangle. Had a small rock stuck in there and quite some mud on some rides that's now solved. If anyone wants to print that one as well I can provide the STL file.
https://abload.de/img/20230909_150446hmc8y.jpg

Thanks a lot for tip, Nukeproof Mega Alloy downtube protector fits really really well. As par chainstay protector Nukeproof Mega fits very good as well, just small cut. Alloy version fits much less. This kit from Nukeproof is kind of must have for FM1001....

[bossman302]

I bought Enduro max bearings F6902 EA LLU to replace the original bearings, and they're not exactly the same. The flange is slightly thicker on the enduro bearings. The difference means I cannot get the rocker flush with the frame, there's a little gap even with the bearings completely seated.

Anyone had this problem and/or has any suggestions how to deal with it?

Thanks!

I'm bummed to hear the bearings are not the same. I was planning to do a bearing swap this winter. Still can't find a high quality replacement for the F6901's. Did you?

How much of a gap are we talking about? .5mm on each side or a full 1mm or more per side? Filling the gap with some sort of spacer may be the best solution. I would be hesitant to modify the carbon.

[brunev]

I'm bummed to hear the bearings are not the same. I was planning to do a bearing swap this winter. Still can't find a high quality replacement for the F6901's. Did you?

How much of a gap are we talking about? .5mm on each side or a full 1mm or more per side? Filling the gap with some sort of spacer may be the best solution. I would be hesitant to modify the carbon.

Me too, I thought people up-thread had used these bearings already without issue, but it seems the F6902 2RS and the F6902 LLU have slightly different flange thickness.

I would say there is about 1-1.5mm gap total (both sides). My current plan is to get some thicker washers (2.5mm) to replace the washers that sit between the rocker and the frame. Unfortunately they are not a standard size, the standard washer with 15mm inner diameter  is 28mm outer diameter, which is too big.

I haven't ordered the F6901 bearings yet, but I did find some online shops in Europe that stocked them.

 

[bossman302]

Me too, I thought people up-thread had used these bearings already without issue, but it seems the F6902 2RS and the F6902 LLU have slightly different flange thickness.

I would say there is about 1-1.5mm gap total (both sides). My current plan is to get some thicker washers (2.5mm) to replace the washers that sit between the rocker and the frame. Unfortunately they are not a standard size, the standard washer with 15mm inner diameter  is 28mm outer diameter, which is too big.

I haven't ordered the F6901 bearings yet, but I did find some online shops in Europe that stocked them.

To my knowledge no one has yet. I started looking into it as the lower bearings for the shock on my frame started to seize up. Turns out they are also a flanged bearing. I ended up just replacing them with a non-flanged bearing since what I bought and Enduro doesn't make a flanged version. It kinda sucks that everything bearing on this frame is a flanged version and doesn't appear to be easily sourced.


Look into the igus thrust washers. The one linked below could potentially fill the 1-1.5 gap.

https://www.igus.com/product/125?artNr=GTM-1519-008

What about the other two for the lower pivot. Did you replace those as well and any issues?

[FullCarbonAlchemist]

Guess I’m glad that I used the FM1002 very lightly this year in favor of my newer FM1003 and haven’t gotten around to replacing the bearings yet…it needs to be done to help me eliminate possible causes of multi-source creaking I’ve experienced on that bike, but the issues with sourcing exact fit replacement parts aren’t something I would expect any of my local shops to handle very well.

I’ll wait to see if 1001/1002 owners come up with a verified solution before trying to replace bearings…maybe just have a local mechanic clean and grease the existing ones for now, or do it myself over the winter.

[bossman302]

It's likely we will not be able to use Enduro bearings on the 1001/1002 and we'll either have to source a more generic bearing or get replacements from Carbonda.

Since the Enduro F6902 EA LLU has a thinker flange I assume this will not work for the lower pivot either. It sounds like it will for the rocker arm but there is a gap. Not sure if that will be a bad thing. Enduro still doesn't carry a F6901 or a F6801 so those still have to be sourced elsewhere.

I was able to find these bearings below. Not sure if they are the exact bearing that Carbonda uses but they appear to be to correct size. The flange thickness is still unknown on these. I'm also having creaking issues that I'm trying to eliminate. At that point where it might time to start pulling bearings. Since the bearings below are fairly cheap, I might just buy a set and see what happens. Won't be for a couple months though. Still have plenty of riding left before the rain comes in.

F6902
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/single-row/f6902-2rs#container-tech-schema

F6901
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/single-row/f6901-2rs

F6801
https://www.123bearing.com/bearing-housing/deep-groove-bearing/single-row/f6801-2rs#container-tech-schema

[brunev]

I bought some 0.3 mm "tunning washers" in a local shop, and using 2 on each side I can reassemble the rocker without any play. They are made of steel though and I expect them to rust quickly, so longer term I would like to get some of those washers bossman suggested (or something else made of stainless steel).

I didn't change the bottom bearings yet but I expect these won't fit, the extra 1.2 mm will be too wide for the chainstay part.

I think for the other bearings I will buy generic ones, they will need more frequent changing but they are also much cheaper and (I hope) will fit correctly.
 

[Ryan_M]

Sorry another sizing question... I've been reading thought this thread and it seems apparent these size about a 1/2 size smaller. I am very green at deciphering geometry so I know not what I say but people usually give their height and inseam when looking for recommendations, wouldn't hight-inseam be a more appropriate metric? I'm 182cm/87cm FWIW. I'm fairly new to MTB and currently ride a OG Evkin CF-052 (L) wich has a 623mm effective top tube length, with a 50mm stem and find it a neutral length. It seems by that the XL would be a great fit, however, the reach on the FM1001 is significantly longer so not sure what to think. I'm a sit'n'spin style climber and will likely spend more time in the saddle on a full sus bike if this influences anything.

Thanks for any input!

[vw155]

Try this to compare geometry of Bikes. You will find OG Evkin and Carbonda

https://bike-stats.de/

[TidyDinosaur]

Try this to compare geometry of Bikes. You will find OG Evkin and Carbonda

https://bike-stats.de/

Do not buy the OG Evkin. the frame is crap (ruined BB shell and loose bottle cage mounts which have ruined the paint around them). If you ask for warranty they will play with you for 2 months and then block you. They are liars and crooks.

[KonaMooseman]

If someone in GER is looking for this frame, I´ve one new frame in size L over.
Just send me a message

[ChinaCruz]

Looking at the geo, they steepened the seat tube (SC) without lengthening the top tube (O) so the riding position should be pretty cramped. 78 degrees for a 135mm bike is too steep.

[jever98]

Hi all!

I am about to build a 1001 for my wife, in size M (she is 5'7"). Her seat height is about 720mm. The size M has a 410mm seat tube, so 310mm from top of seat tube to saddle top.

By my calculations, a 180mm OneUp dropper should fit. (at least 260mm to saddle rails from collar, 230mm max insertion).

Does that match up with people's experience?

Thanks

[jever98]

@freda - what colors are those, if you don't mind? Lovely paint you chose!

So i have now over half a year on this frame and I am pleased so far.

 It was meant for trail riding and for this purpose it works well. Actually it is better on the downhills then I expected, but that can also be because I run it mullet so it is slacker and lower. At some point I will switch to 29” in the back because I would like the steeper seattube. Now I run the saddle slammed forward. I really see no negatives with steep seattube.

People have already pointed out the hassle to run the cables in the frame. I also noticed running them front to back seems to work best. Another thing is the rubber grommets, they are very tight and with both the brake and gear cable in the same grommet I never got it seated properly so now I have lost it.

The bolts need tightening regularly, but that is normal. The upper shock bolt is just crap quality, need to replace that one soon.

The seatstays gather water, when riding in the wet or washing the bike, there is always water in there. Turning the bike upside down empties it.

Sizing for me is good, L size and I am 179cm with 84cm inseam. Running 50mm stem, I tried a 35mm stem and that was nice going down but felt cramped while seated. I think I could run the XL but not the M, depends of course on the kind of riding one is doing.

Overall a good frame with modern geometry and suspension that works well.

[binaryagent]

1300 miles. Feels rough to turn. The other side is fine. Need a solution.

Has anyone ordered replacement bearings from Carbonda?