My first bike build: IP-256SL

[WorkingHPRs]

Have added build spreadsheet to first post.

Tyres arrived today (2015 Nobby Nics 2.35" @ 788g real vs. 725g claimed, so within 10% which seems reasonable.) with and wheels are ready to be picked up.

Most interesting weight discrepancy so far is the XG-1180 MINI CLUSTER (X1 Cassette) coming in @ 264g real vs. 315g claimed by SRAM, that's only 4g heavier than the XG-1199 (XX1 cassette) cluster!

[WorkingHPRs]

Have fitted tyres, 2015 Nobby Nic's 2.35" Front and Rear. Not much clearance to the frame and requires a very precise installation otherwise you can't get it in. Looks sweet though!

Used the American Classic valves (as Vipassana did) also used the wide American Classic tubeless tape, have XMIPlay's 35mm external 30mm internal hookless rims and setup one with with a tube overnight (and then removed the tube) and the other with a compressor. Really impressed that both will go for 3-4 days even without sealant. Hubs are DT Swiss 350. The oversize lugs for the 15mm Maxle at the front require a different centre lock lock ring, an externally toothed one which isn't the easiest to find.

[MTB2223]

I'm riding the IP-256SL with 2.25 RR ( with 1.8 bar pressure ) on the XMIPlay 30mm hookless rims. Last weekend I found some scratches on the frame at the closes point of the tyre and frame.
Please be aware of your lack of space between your frame and tyre.

[WorkingHPRs]

Can see that there isn't much room! but what's the best thing to do? Can always go with a thinner NN in January I guess. Doubt helicopter tape will do much good?

[Sussed.]

Proper man cave that Works !!  DeWalt, Scalectrix, weights and industrial sized bags of Maltesers !   

[snipe]

Can see that there isn't much room! but what's the best thing to do? Can always go with a thinner NN in January I guess. Doubt helicopter tape will do much good?

On the 35mm rims I find the 2.25 to be plenty for XC and trail riding.  Keep the 2.35 on the front if you prefer.   The wide rim just adds so much width and volume to the profile. 

As a side note I also found the Nics to wear out very quickly on the rear.   I have switched to Conti Trail Kings 2.2 Black Chili and am going to try also some Hutchinson Cobra 2.2  to see if I can get better durability.

[WorkingHPRs]

Finally got around to getting "fitted" to the bike, I am 188cm but have a long torso and I am delighted with the results, ended up with a much higher seat position than previously but my lower back pain has gone Was prepared to ditch the long stem but we found that dropping it about 12mm and the higher seat position was all that was required, really wish I had done it sooner.

As a side note Paul (Ride @ Plymouth, UK) also sorted a really annoying click from the headset, it sounded like the carbon steerer tube was moving ever so slightly in the headset bearing giving a large plastic "click" under braking. A very generous application of grease sorted the problem, headset is rusting up nicely though. Has anyone sourced a higher spec unit than the one supplied by XMI?

[SportingGoods]

Which rear tire do you finally run? This 2.35 NN is a no-go to me, way to close to the frame.

[WorkingHPRs]

Running the 2015 2.25 NN at the rear and have helicopter tape on the chain stays, so far unmarked. The 2.35 fits but no confidence that it wouldn't foul badly. Hopefully going to have some time in the coming week to ride the 2.25 NN more aggressively and will see if I need to come down further in width.

[WorkingHPRs]

Getting some good mileage on the IP-256SL and will be racing it in a 24 MTB race (Bontrager 24/12) this weekend.

Split the carcass of my rear 2015 NN on a flint a week or two ago so have been running it tubed, just bought a replacement to run tubeless for the race and it seems lighter @ 700g (about 50g over the claimed weight) but interestingly has inflated a lot smaller than the one that came off, much needed clearance between tyre and chainstay.

Have also fitted a RS Reverb Stealth, awesome bit of kit totally transformed the bike. Had been really struggling with the technical stuff as the seat position was good and high for climbing but now there is no compromise, fantastic!

Have also switched out the rear axle for a DT Swiss RWS, so much more secure than the OEM version.

Started to notice a creak under load, might be BB not fully tightened but looking over the bike whilst fitting the new tubeless tyre at the rear I found both rear dropouts to be loose. Do you guys use thread lock on these?

Can't believe how capable this bike is, love it!

PS. anyone got any bright ideas on how to remember to lock out the front fork when climbing? I keep forgetting until I get near the top which is tedious!

[MTB2223]

DT Swiss: good choice!

Creak: don't focus only on your BB. In my case I had to put some grease on the dropouts between the dropout and the axle.

Dropouts: I put some blue lock tide on the small screws because one came lose.

Lock out: I've got the same problem, always forget to lock the fork during climbing. But I think if I lock the fork, I forget to unlock the fork afterwards

[Carbon_Dude]

A remote lock lever on the bar right near your left thumb is nice because you can easily feel what position the lock-out is in.  That is what I do on my IP-036, my fork and shock have three positions so I can easily flip between climb, trail, and descend at the flick of a switch.

[kingchickenstrip]

I would install a rigid carbon fork and all your lock out problems will be solved!