John's IP-057 build - first bike build ever

[jwilds1]

Well, parts are rolling in, so I figured I'd start this because I am going to have a *TON* of questions.  Build list:

• IP-057 frame, Matte, BSA bottom bracket, 17.5" from XMIPlay
• Neco headset, seatpost, chain stay protector from XMIPlay
• Shimano 2x10 XT Drivetrain, XT brakes from Ribble
• IP-M23C wheels on red Novatec hubs with red spoke nipples, from XMIPlay
• red RaceFace Turbine riser bar
• RockShox 30 Gold 120mm travel
• Kenda Small Block 8

I am new to bike-building, but am pretty mechanically inclined, so I don't envision too many problems, especially with your help and a few riding buddies at work.

So, as I await the frame (should get back in stock in China in the next week), I started putting the wheels together.  Went to LBS to pick up some Stan's valve stems and sealant.  After watching some of the videos on the Stan's web site, I went ahead and mounted the tires (no rim strips yet) and couldn't get the beads to seat for the life of me.  Second attempt was after running Gorilla tape sticky side down, and was much better, but without sealant they wouldn't hold air for more than 15s.  Most of the leakage was around the bead, at least according to the soapy water.  So my questions:

1) Is that an okay method of DIY rim strips or is there a better method?
2) Am I good to go ahead and throw the Stans in the tire and inflate?

Gotta admit, they look pretty good:

[Carbon_Dude]

I am sure you are aware of what I am about to say, although I question some of your reasoning.  Perhaps I'm not getting the whole story.

1)  On your first attempt, of course the bead would not set without rim strips or rim tape.  Spoke holes can't seal themselves.  There are only a few wheels in the marketplace that don't have spoke holes drilled into the rim, so a rim strip or rim tape is a necessary item.

2)  Your wheels are not UST, this means you will need a liquid sealant such as Stan's or Orange Sealant (my personal preference) to seal the bead, possibly around the stems, and anywhere the rim tape didn't do the job.

3)  Gorilla Tape is a common alternative to Stan's rim tape, if you have the correct width of tape for your rim width, you should have good luck using Gorilla tape.  If the tape is too wide, it will interfere with the seal between the tire and the rim.

4)  Yes, add your tire sealant, shake the wheel like is shown in the Stan's video and get your tire to seal well.  A good seal will not lose air for a week or so, however, this depends on the tire as well.  Thicker rubber will not lose air as quickly.

Good luck finishing your build, I'm glad someone is still choosing the IP-057 as it seems everyone is liking the IP-256 lately.

[carbonazza]

The rim tape is vital as CD pointed out.

From my experience, every tire seems different, even the same models, some pop immediately while other take you a while to get on.
But in all cases, putting soapy water seems to make the tire pop much faster.

Once the tire is seated, don't move it out for the sealant.
I was doing this before and sometimes had to restart the soapy thing again.

Just remove the end of the valve.
And with a 60ml seringue, and a plastic tube, pour the sealant through the valve.
Put the valve back, inflate and shake/rotate.

[Carbon_Dude]

Also, I will temporarliy inflate the tire to 45psi or so to ensure the bead snaps firmly into place, then let some are out later and set the tire to say 30psi or so.

[jwilds1]

Thanks, everyone. I was able to trim a little of the gorilla tape and re-seat the beads. I bought two of the small Stan's bottles and dumped one in each after removing the cores. We shall see how well it seals up. Seems like I was only able to get to about 20 psi before it started bubbling out.

And I apologize in advance for a lot of what may be dumb questions. Never put a bike together myself and everything I've owned have been Craigslist specials.

[Vipassana]

The sealant bubbling out is exactly what it's supposed to do.  That is needed are the sealant to do the holes. Just keep shaking the wheel around until you find no more leaks. Soapy water like you've been using is great to check this seal.

Also, whatever sealant you end up with, don't make a habit of buying those small bottles as it's far more costly than the big bottles and you will need to refill the wheels frequently for best results (I average every 3 to 4 months).

[cmh]

Also, whatever sealant you end up with, don't make a habit of buying those small bottles as it's far more costly than the big bottles and you will need to refill the wheels frequently for best results (I average every 3 to 4 months).

^ this, totally, although hang onto the small bottles, they're the right size for one "dose" of sealant and perfect for injecting the sealant after pulling the valve as you've already found.  I refill mine from the big bottle.

[jwilds1]

Well, they're finally holding air. With tires (Kenda Small Block 8s, 2.1" width) and sealant, front weighs in at 1550g and the rear at 1960g.

Now, if only Peter will get back to me on the frame. Today is day 25 of the 20-25 day back in stock window...

[Vipassana]

Have you ever ridden Small Block 8s on the front wheel?  I would be very cautious your first few rides... They are a good, fast rolling rear tire, but tend to slide out easily, especially in the front.  I would personally never recommend on for a front tire.

[cmh]

Have you ever ridden Small Block 8s on the front wheel?  I would be very cautious your first few rides... They are a good, fast rolling rear tire, but tend to slide out easily, especially in the front.  I would personally never recommend on for a front tire.

Depends on the terrain. If the tire is fresh and you're riding hardpack, SB8s front and rear is fast and fun. Might not have all types of ultimate traction, but I had a blast on that combo.  The Slant Six makes a nice front tire if you want a bit more traction. The Nevegals have huge traction, but I felt that they were way too slow rolling.

[jwilds1]

Most everywhere I ride around here (Southeast MI) is hard-pack and fast.  There are a few exceptions - Island Lake is very sandy - but for the most part I feel like these should be good.  Anything's better than the Vee Rubber Mission's I have on my fatbike (horrible).

[blueducati]

Hey John, where in SE Michigan are you? I'm in Oakland Township (Rochester).

[jwilds1]

I'm downriver (Grosse Ile), but I have to head north to ride anywhere with more than a few feet of elevation change.  Worked this weekend at Hines Park with a  few of the MMBA guys on the new trails they're putting there.

[outriding9800]

Another SE michigan person here..

Rochester..

I liked SB8 at first but after a few hundred miles they just seemed to loose too much traction for me.

I am a huge RARA fan

I might try out a bontrager xr2 next.. main cuz of the size they can do 2.35..

[Vipassana]

I rode SB8s for a year and a half out here in AZ.  They were OK on decent clean hard pack. No issues there. But in the slightest sandy or dusty trail they would slide a great deal. And in mud, forget about it; they would pack with mud instantly and become a slick. 

I did like them as a rear, but stuck with the Nevegal in the front.   I'll be curious to hear your thoughts on them in your terrain.

I also like the RaRas, but the cost and the rate at which they wear has me a bit concerned.  I'll probably look elsewhere when it comes time to replace.