Velobuild GF-002

[bichler.bua]

Welcome, fellow GF002 owner! This is an issue that many have faced and tried to resolve in different ways with varying degrees of success. The C ring, spacers/headset and that aero cap from VB all add to the issue. For me, the top cap is glaring issue because it deform when you tighten the screw meaning the required torque to keep it tight is eaten by cap's flexy material. There is a thread dedicated to this issue and seems using FSA headset (no 55) solves the issue to some extent -

http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3683.0.html

Agree and like I commented on the above mentioned post: the top cap of the Velobuild stem is a major issue.

[hazzer19]

My workaround for the top cap that doesn't seem to be able to maintain rigidity in order to tighten things up is to first remove all play without the top cap (using the hole in a pedal wrench) and then fastening the top cap gently after. Since the top cap doesn't need to compress things once the play has been removed and stem has been tightened that should work, and it does for a while until it becomes loose again like others have been experiencing, however I think that it related to something else and I am likely going to add some spacers or cut the steerer a bit to see if I can stop the loosening of the headset that way.

[coffeebreak]

After this discussion started again, I loosened up the handlebar/stem from the fork steerer and lifted it up just so I can take a peek inside. I noticed that the spacers do hug steerer snuggly but just not tight enough. There is a very slight gap that exists.

I cut a piece of aluminum foil and inserted into the gap but that wasn't enough. Next - I cut up tin of canned fish into 3 long pieces to cover stacked height of the spacers and with great hassle and a cut on index finger managed to insert all three between spacers and steerer.
That seemed to stop the minute back and forth movement of spacers. Thankfully the spacers lock into each other so this extra pressure created by thin insert is still handled. Though only way I could do this was to assemble spacers first and then insert the metal strips. For good measure, I left around 1.5mm of the strips exposed and when all was done, bent that 1.5mm "lip" outwards to keep it sliding down the steerer into fork as it takes a beating on gravel.
Then, pushed down the handle/stem and tightened the top cap. I must say this is the tightest I have ever felt with virtually no internal movement.  If it gets loose again, I will insert one more strip for good measure and take photos. But I doubt that will happen. Fingers crossed.

[TeamO]

My build  is progressing piece by piece.

As the first wheelset I will use the ENT Elite Wheels with Conti 5000 in 28mm.

What very cheap wheelset and what tires would you recommend for gravel?
What maximum tire width fits (700c) in the frame?

[coffeebreak]

If you are okay with buying used, that would be the cheapest way to get a good wheelset. I wouldn't buy a new, cheapest wheelset instead I will look for a used one in the same price. The wheelset makes huge difference in the way bike rides. In the budget range, DT Swiss' OEM wheels are good. Many bikes comes with it pre-built and people upgrade them, so finding them used isn't terribly difficult or expensive. For e.g. DT Swiss C1850 Spline which is just OEM version of C1800 wheelset. I was able to snag one for $150 and its been great. Hunt 4Seasons X-Wide gravel wheelset has also served me well, but slightly expensive ($300~ used) and has gone out of tune a bit while the DT Swiss is still true. Suggest you to not get super heavy wheelset - it just sucks the fun out of a good bike.

[bichler.bua]

My build  is progressing piece by piece.

As the first wheelset I will use the ENT Elite Wheels with Conti 5000 in 28mm.

What very cheap wheelset and what tires would you recommend for gravel?
What maximum tire width fits (700c) in the frame?

This information was provided to me by Email from Chris: Tire clearance 700x45C or 27.5erx2.1

[TeamO]

It's me again.
The cabeling in the handlebars and stem has now worked, but there is a problem to lay the 4 cables in the area of the headset.
Currently I lay the cables from the handlebars through the compression ring into the frame to the brakes and the derailleurs and then try to install the fork. I try 2 cables left and 2 right from the fork tube to pass, but it does not work. Since the cables from Jagwire Pro Set are very rigid, I have enormous problems to install the fork and at the same time compression ring.
Does anyone have tips or a video what this explains well?

[bichler.bua]

It's me again.
The cabeling in the handlebars and stem has now worked, but there is a problem to lay the 4 cables in the area of the headset.
Currently I lay the cables from the handlebars through the compression ring into the frame to the brakes and the derailleurs and then try to install the fork. I try 2 cables left and 2 right from the fork tube to pass, but it does not work. Since the cables from Jagwire Pro Set are very rigid, I have enormous problems to install the fork and at the same time compression ring.
Does anyone have tips or a video what this explains well?

You will have a tough time internally routing Jagwire compressionless housing through the separate stem handlebar combo. I shared some of my experiences in this VB-R-099 thread
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3102.msg34848.html#msg34848
The tight bending radius will also cause more cable friction for an all mechanical setup, which will likely impact performance of brakes or shifting.
You might consider a semi-internal setup, guiding the cables outside the bar and underneath the stem and then entering the internal routing through a modified headset cover (like FSA No. 69 or mechanical modification of the spacers).

[coffeebreak]

It's me again.
The cabeling in the handlebars and stem has now worked, but there is a problem to lay the 4 cables in the area of the headset.
Currently I lay the cables from the handlebars through the compression ring into the frame to the brakes and the derailleurs and then try to install the fork. I try 2 cables left and 2 right from the fork tube to pass, but it does not work. Since the cables from Jagwire Pro Set are very rigid, I have enormous problems to install the fork and at the same time compression ring.
Does anyone have tips or a video what this explains well?

I have the exact same setup and routing is a nightmare though I gave up on Jagwire in the end. Despite that, the shifting is exceedingly smooth. It is Ultegra R6800 and when I compare it with my Fuji with external cabling and 105 R7000, Ultegra has faster, smoother shifts.

May be it its there but I can't find a video explaining the whole process. Here is what I did though:

1. Keep cables as long as you can. Finish ICR thru handle and stem and tighten the stem bolts..
2. Insert fork in the frame and with help of Velcro straps, tighten it to frame so it does no slide down.
3. Insert C ring. Insert dust cap without fail.
4. Take someone's help or if you can manage on your own - hold the handle/stem above fork steerer and start passing all the cables thru C ring into the frame and fork.
5. Front brake is easy. For rear portion, it is trial and error, fiddling and cursing for hours until all the cables have passed through respective outlets. There is no other way at least I don't know.
6. Front derailleur cable routing is tricky. You can route the cable above BB spindle or below. There is enough space in the frame to route it above the spindle but I found out going under the spindle is easier to bend the cable.
7. Once all cables have passed thru, assemble spacers and tighten stem to steerer.
8. If the bends in cable outer were reasonably fine, you should have no problem inserting cable inners.
9. Again, trial and error on shifting and braking action.

It is important to have proper cable ends inserted on shifter side. Without those you will have hard time inserting cable inners. Once you have successfully passed the inners, have one more set of cable ends handy for the other end.

[ENEP]

Thanks! I'm using a Wheels Manufacturing internally threaded pressfit BB. Haven't thought much about the logic of the statement above in truth, just passed on what VB mentioned. May switch out the BB instead of replacing the bearings and can report back if it makes a difference.

Hi

Did you solve the issue with 34/50 crankset rubbing?

[hazzer19]

Hi

Did you solve the issue with 34/50 crankset rubbing?

Yes, I added 3 or 4 plastic BB spacers on the drive side and that did the trick. Initially I added one less because the small ring wasn't rubbing but didn't take into account flex when under load so remember to add an extra one if possible.

[ENEP]

Yes, I added 3 or 4 plastic BB spacers on the drive side and that did the trick. Initially I added one less because the small ring wasn't rubbing but didn't take into account flex when under load so remember to add an extra one if possible.

Cool, thanks.
Is the chain line still ok after adding all the spacers?

[hazzer19]

Cool, thanks.
Is the chain line still ok after adding all the spacers?

Yup seems to be

[bichler.bua]

Question to all GF-002 owners, regarding the headset (once again):
Using the compression ring and headtube cover that came with my frame leaves a significant gap between the headtube and the headtube cover (2.4 to 2.6mm),
The compression ring seems to be the "updated" version that is supposed to improve headset play with some of the road frame models.
Not sure about the headtube cover version, though, it has holes to align with the compression plug (while the updated version does not have pins).

Can anybody comment about gap between headtube and cover and about that hardware that came with your frame?
Nothing against Velobuild, but the headset topic is so annoying and the constant change of design and hardware makes it a total mess...

[coffeebreak]

The gap seems okay.