New MTBer, Build Advice

[FHS]

Hi All,

I'm a roadie looking to get into MTB. I'm building a 26er for my 9 yo daughter and I'm hoping to be able to take her onto some local trails. My wife has a hardtail hybrid/MTB I can ride to get started but I'm thinking that, sooner or later, I'll want to upgrade and just have a bike of my own for family rides. I'm older, 57 yo, 5'10" 155 lbs, in decent shape from riding on the road. We'll probably do more XC and some trail, but I would like to be able to eventually ride trail without beating myself up too much. I'll probably go 1x12 sp Shimano in some flavor unless I can find a better deal on SRAM.

My first thought was to just go with a hardtail, keep the costs down, and build up a Tideace FM028. Being older though, I was wondering if it's just better to eat the costs and go with a full suspension frame right out of the blocks. It looks like riders here seem to like Carbonda frames, FM 909, 936, and 1001, what Carbonda describes as two lightweight XC frames and a Trail frame.

I am a complete n00b, have barely more than a basic understanding of MTB, but would like to build it myself. I'm confident in my ability to build a bike, just not confident in my ability to tune a full suspension MTB. I can follow the build guides on this forum, but I'm not really confident about even being able to choose the right frame, let alone the correct suspension pieces myself. I'm just going on the fact that I won't be doing much more than following a n00bie 9/10 yo on a trail for awhile before having to really learn the nuances.

My budget is ~$2000 USD. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!

[jannmayer]

Your budget will get you a really nice hardtail. You may be able to build up a full suspension bike if you go really cheap on the components and can find some used parts.


Since you are new to mountain biking, I'd suggest finding a decent used hardtail and riding that until you get a good feel for what you like. Most of the carbon frames out they are very much XC designs. There aren't too may that take wider tires (2.5"), and that does help smooth the ride out a bit. In addition, I find I like the slacker geometry on my hardtail since it gives me a lot more confidence on the rough descents. There are a handful of steel and aluminum frames out there (from name brands) that would be a good starting point.



If you do build up a bike, keep in mind it may take a lot longer than you think. My build is taking way longer than expected due to parts availability, my lack of experience, and time available.

[Draz]

Welcome roadie, I'm also kinda new to FS world. However i did my research, compared a 140mm hardtail to a 140/150 full suspension bike.

If you are going fast, there are some downside of hardtail, lack of traction is the most obvious one.
Your ride will be much bumpier in high speed. Given you are off the saddle time to time, you may not feel the harshness of the trail but find it confidence breaker.

When i ride hardtail, I can feel even the smallest root or rock. This was a problem for me especially when i was cruising uphill on the saddle and I'm only 30 y/o.

IMO even the shortest full suspension is better than hardtail.
I would go with fm1001 or you can also check Light carbon LCFS958.

Some information about mtb,

Dropper seat post is kinda a must have
You don't need flagship suspension, you need to tune in.
I would say for 100mm travel fork 32mm stanchions are more than ok. Rockshox recon is a good choice at your total price range
120mm travel, i would choose at least 34mm model. rockshox 35 is a budget model.
Stay away from remote lockout models as they only have no compression adjustment.

Rear shock is determined by two length.
Total length, travel length
Take 185x50mm for example, 185mm(eye to eye length) is determined by frame manufacturer stick with that.
There is a maximum travel for a frame exceeding that, your suspension link going to touch the frame.

Take 50mm travel, leverage ratio dictates the travel of the rear wheel. If ratio is 1:2 lets say, you will have 100mm rear travel. These numbers are determined by your suspension link design.
You can install slightly lower travel rear shock, 185x45mm and you will only have 90mm travel.

There is also trunnion mounting. Normally shocks are standard eye to standard eye.
Lately there are lots of trunnion mount to standard eye. I believe thats a better mounting type and doesn't require bushing or mounting hardware.

You also going to need a bushing for the standard eyelet side of the shock also determined by frame manufacturer.
Thats basically a spacer for rear shock.

Also look for flex stays(single pivot) vs horst stay.

Happy builds!

[lilbigmacky]

At that budget going with used or new takeoff suspension is going to probably be the best option for you. Your fork is probably going to be the most expensive component on your bike and going with used or takeoff  forks and can save you a ton of money. Check pinkbike buy/sell for good deals.

[Zomb1e]

My budget is ~$2000 USD.

Choosing full-susser over hardtail will be definitely good decision - you'll get more traction, more speed (not only on descends, but on tech climbs also) and less pain. But I think you have to increase your budget, at least a bit. Recently I've built a bike on 936 frame and even with some low-cost and used parts I was about to hit $2150 mark. As Draz mentioned before, you don't need top level suspension, but if you want it to fit you perfect, you should be ready to dive deep into tuning, probably even into re-shimming your damper. And dropper post is a must for modern geometry mtb.

[00Garza]

Welcome to the dirt life. I transitioned from road riding a while back. Started on a cheap hardtail. Used that experience to figure out what I wanted in my full sus bike that I immediately started saving up for. I learned about all the various standards and types of mountain bikes in that time. It helped me immensely. Mountain bikes are much more complex than road bikes.
I toyed with the idea of building up a Chinese full sus frame but after build costs or buying the right tools, it was easier to buy a one locally.

So if you haven't yet, factor in costs for tools you may not have.

[carbonazza]

... factor in costs for tools you may not have.

Building your bike put you on another level.
Many of us started to build their first bike with very limited tools.
A multi tool, with a chain breaker, while not the most comfortable can do a lot.

Then you need a BB tool, either a very cheap M12 bolt + washers for Press Fit, or a Shimano BB if you go with a threaded BB.
And a cassette removal tool.
Aliexpress sell all these tools very cheap too.

If you don't have a torque wrench, tighten the screw gently, and if the thing moves, tighten a bit more, but never too hard, until it doesn't move.
And if you have a doubt, look at Youtube for help, or stop, and ask the question here 

[FHS]

Thanks for all the input, and thanks for the welcome!

All great advice. I think I will putter about this summer following my 9 yo around the trails as best I can on my wife's hybrid. I'll make a modest investment in fatter tires. As for a build, I think I will wait it out and save up for full suspension for next spring if either of us get into mtb, really.

I'm still open as far as how to get the bike and would consider a good deal on something used, but I like building bikes. I've built a couple of road bikes now, I'll be building a 26er next month so I have a nice core of tools for maintenance and building, PF, threaded, DUB, Shimano.... I'm sure there are specialized tools for full suspension bikes, so if you have any suggestions....

It'll be a Chinese frame for sure, super interested in Zomb1e's fm936 build, or Shield's fm1001 "downcountry" build.

Clearly a long way to go, so thanks for the suggestions so far. Please feel free to add to the list of suggestions. I'll pay closer attention to this group and try to learn as much as I can.

Thanks again!