Velobuild VB-R-218

[madmax]

that looks like it is completely separated from the frame.
Warranty request and hopefully Velobuild helps you out.

I emailed Velo and Chris said to epoxy/resin it and will follow up with an email next week
The problem is I can’t remove the cups now nor do I have the tools to remove the inserts to glue them back

I may also reach out to bb infinite an get their threaded inserts and use those as they are much higher quality

The campagnolo cups were threaded in with antiseize and torqued at 35nm per spec
The cranks were installed and the bolt greased and set to 50nm per spec

If the insert was correctly bonded to the carbon frame it should not have separated out

I put the crank back in for now and it runs smoothly but will creak when I pedal, so I won’t use the bike for now

So now its either a replacement frame or get someone to get the inserts out and use adhesive to bond it back after checking frame for cracks and let that cure for a days before reinstalling cups and cranks

[carbonazza]

I emailed Velo and Chris said to epoxy/resin it and will follow up with an email next week...

What a service. Don't let them go with this.
Ask for a warranty replacement, nothing else.

It happened once to a kid's bike I've built from Peter.
He replaced it immediately, no question asked.

[coffeebreak]

Thanks everyone for their help so far!
I am doing cable routing now and have a question about this plastic insert for the rear mech. How did you get internally routed cables around/through this?
The hole is too small to feed the cable housing through. Does the cable housing terminate internally there and then a smaller section goes from this plastic insert to the mech interface?

You don't actually need that hard plastic insert in that place. You only need a small rubber gasket to plug the area around cable outer once it has exited from the hole. If you pull it out it will come off.

 I'm kinda surprised that piece is attached to RD cable exit. On my frame it came in a pouch with other bits and pieces while a tiny rubber grommet was inserted into that hole. Since it's rubber, it expands and fits snuggly once cable housing has come out. I'll send you a picture in a bit. If you don't have it, it's fairly easy thing to get from hardware store.

[Sebastian]

Thanks everyone for their help so far!
I am doing cable routing now and have a question about this plastic insert for the rear mech. How did you get internally routed cables around/through this?
The hole is too small to feed the cable housing through. Does the cable housing terminate internally there and then a smaller section goes from this plastic insert to the mech interface?

It fit on mine. I didn't have to do anything to that hole. I routed the housing all the way through the frame out of the rear hole. I slid the rubber cable guide over the housing and into the hole. It's a pretty flexy piece of rubber and it's only really there so the housing doesn't rattle around.

[Sebastian]

What a service. Don't let them go with this.
Ask for a warranty replacement, nothing else.

It happened once to a kid's bike I've built from Peter.
He replaced it immediately, no question asked.

I second that. The BB shell probably wasn't properly bonded into the frame in the first place. It shouldn't have come loose. Asking you to fix it is unacceptable. They should replace the frame.

[madmax]

At this point I can’t even get the UT cup off on the non drive side
I’m stumped, because it looks like the paint has cracked and the threaded insert has an aluminum face that’s stuck to the carbon frame or maybe the frame outer layer is broken

I will ask for a new frame when their holidays are over and Chris responds, but it looks like I won’t be able to use this bike or assemble a new one for several months

I see a similar hairline paint crack line on the drive side, in which case both inserts should come out, making it easier to inspect any damage to the frame.
Definitely wouldn’t want to try and rebond these back and it would be safer to add in a bb infinite 30 insert there, though that would now cost $230 and extra tools etc

I guess I will know next week if they will do a warranty or not and I’m hoping they will do the right thing
They have sent over missing parts when requested, though it takes time to show up


Edit:
Just received an email from BB Infinite, who probably did not understand the issue and asked me to use loctitie and hand tighten the cup and did not have a product that could help me
This is despite their own website saying they have a product that fixes this very same issue  (assuming frame is intact)

Starting the warranty claim on this frame...wish me luck here

[mattgolt]

Hello everyone,

first post here! Just been lurking for the past few weeks, so thanks everyone for all the pictures and experience that helped me decide. I've pulled the trigger on a XL Disc version of the 218 today. Hopefully it'll turn up fine without the unlucky experiences some of you had.

Planning an SRAM Force Etap build, but I'll hold off from ordering other components until I see the frame.

Did anyone run into trouble with taxing it when importing to EU (Germany)?

KR

[Yunglord]

At this point I can’t even get the UT cup off on the non drive side
I’m stumped, because it looks like the paint has cracked and the threaded insert has an aluminum face that’s stuck to the carbon frame or maybe the frame outer layer is broken

I will ask for a new frame when their holidays are over and Chris responds, but it looks like I won’t be able to use this bike or assemble a new one for several months

I see a similar hairline paint crack line on the drive side, in which case both inserts should come out, making it easier to inspect any damage to the frame.
Definitely wouldn’t want to try and rebond these back and it would be safer to add in a bb infinite 30 insert there, though that would now cost $230 and extra tools etc

I guess I will know next week if they will do a warranty or not and I’m hoping they will do the right thing
They have sent over missing parts when requested, though it takes time to show up


Edit:
Just received an email from BB Infinite, who probably did not understand the issue and asked me to use loctitie and hand tighten the cup and did not have a product that could help me
This is despite their own website saying they have a product that fixes this very same issue  (assuming frame is intact)

Starting the warranty claim on this frame...wish me luck here

not to be a debbie downer but from that previous photo, you uploaded the whole area around the bb cup is completely cracked I wouldn't try to ride that frame.

[madmax]

not to be a debbie downer but from that previous photo, you uploaded the whole area around the bb cup is completely cracked I wouldn't try to ride that frame.

Nope, I appreciate all opinions & would much rather you were direct with me & gave me good advice & I really do appreciate that

[coffeebreak]

Edit:
Just received an email from BB Infinite, who probably did not understand the issue and asked me to use loctitie and hand tighten the cup and did not have a product that could help me
This is despite their own website saying they have a product that fixes this very same issue  (assuming frame is intact)

May be I am not reading this right. Your frame is not intact so they are right when they say they don't have product that could help you - which seems like correct response?

[madmax]

May be I am not reading this right. Your frame is not intact so they are right when they say they don't have product that could help you - which seems like correct response?

No, they thought that the UT cup wasn't correct and told me to use Loctite.
Later on Wes, the founder of the company called and we spoke for about 30 min & he gave me some good advice on where to take the frame and get the insert removed

Also, Chris just responded & they are sending a new frame

I managed to remove the drive crank & UT cup & took pix (see attached) also used a light sanding block on the portion around the non-drive side UT cup & if you can see the area where it looks like a circular  crack,
that is actually the matte paint &below that is a shiny aluminum ring & definite not carbon

So the insert itself has a large outer flange & this is exactly the same design as the Pinarello Dogma F12, except on the Dogma the circular outer flange may be a bit smaller & is usually red in color

This means that everyone on here using the same 218 frame will have the same flange that is painted over & looks like part of the frame & this can be carefully removed with a BB30 press tool etc
There is no sign of any crack or tear or any carbon material inside the BB as well. I think after taking it to a specialist shop they will be able to remove the insert & use Vibratite and reattach it after letting it cure for 24 hours
after checking the frame for any damage & I may wind up using it indoors on a trainer

The BB shell itself is quite thick & this is good news for other users as well if they have any BB issues

[Sebastian]

Once again it’s good to see that VB at least stand behind their warranty.
But I must say, all the issues in this thread do not fill me with confidence. Not sure I would buy from VB again, to be honest.

[madmax]

Once again it’s good to see that VB at least stand behind their warranty.
But I must say, all the issues in this thread do not fill me with confidence. Not sure I would buy from VB again, to be honest.

The price is pretty good if you are building a bike for the first time on your own.
The bike itself rides quite well & is very light

These are the areas on which Velobuild should focus (IMO)  & I sent this to Chris as feedback

1. Adhesive bonds on the BB inserts.  If using Vibratite then let it cure for 3+ hours

2. No paint on threads  (BB & brake mounts)

3. Make sure mounts are faced correctly & the threads are chased

4. Correct sized bolts to be included with each order

5. No missing parts

[dsveddy]

The price is pretty good if you are building a bike for the first time on your own.
The bike itself rides quite well & is very light

These are the areas on which Velobuild should focus (IMO)  & I sent this to Chris as feedback

1. Adhesive bonds on the BB inserts.  If using Vibratite then let it cure for 3+ hours

2. No paint on threads  (BB & brake mounts)

3. Make sure mounts are faced correctly & the threads are chased

4. Correct sized bolts to be included with each order

5. No missing parts

I second this. I was quite close to buying one of these and then backed off when I saw all the problems.

[madmax]

Took bike in to a carbon specialist shop & despite our best attempts we were unable to get the non-drive side threaded insert put from the bottom bracket so it it could be glued back inside
Frame is fine, except now the insert can be moved by hand.

Per Chris from Velobuild
"The bb installed during mould ,not glue after made .get the glue out ,it should be moved"

So, basically I cannot get the insert out without wrecking the frame

Since there is an outer flange made of alumnium, I will simply add in a small metal insert to make a tiny gap & pour in some Park Tool RC-1, which should flow in & fill gaps & bind everything & stop the moving
though there may be some minor creaking

This lets me get back on the bike & use it, while the other replacement frame get's shipped out next week