LTWOO ER9 & ERX - Electronic groepsets

[strayan_rice_farmer]

You will need to buy: 14500 battery capacity: 800mAh, 3.7V, 2.96Wh.

I think eBay has them cheap...but not sure if you can use a flat top with the step.

Flattop does not work

I know because i ordered a flat top set of batteries
you'll probably need to drop a fat drop of solder on the top or get 14500 batteries with nipples.

[lantz]

Just received my eRX.

Installing and getting everything set up, will report back.

So far, everything really feels quality!

For those that have received the set - I got the nobox/nobattery version - the directions all talk about setting up the brakes by adding the mineral oil and stuff - but seems like the lines are already filled?

What's the strategy to connecting them, already filled, to the brifters without making a god damned mess? lol.

[Sakizashi]

Just received my eRX.

Installing and getting everything set up, will report back.

So far, everything really feels quality!

For those that have received the set - I got the nobox/nobattery version - the directions all talk about setting up the brakes by adding the mineral oil and stuff - but seems like the lines are already filled?

What's the strategy to connecting them, already filled, to the brifters without making a god damned mess? lol.

I havent built a set of ERX, but generally if you leave one end of hose connected either to the lever or caliper, very little fluid leaks out. Sort of like putting your thumb over the end of the straw. If you are using a routing kit, the tool should plug the line as well.

I prefer the Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector tool + cable liner to do the routing. If its a new frame with the liner installed or an old frame with existing hose, you just use the little tool to connect to the old line and pull the new line through. The tool is $2-$4 and well worth having around IMO.

[lantz]

I havent built a set of ERX, but generally if you leave one end of hose connected either to the lever or caliper, very little fluid leaks out. Sort of like putting your thumb over the end of the straw. If you are using a routing kit, the tool should plug the line as well.

I prefer the Rockshox Reverb Stealth Barb Connector tool + cable liner to do the routing. If its a new frame with the liner installed or an old frame with existing hose, you just use the little tool to connect to the old line and pull the new line through. The tool is $2-$4 and well worth having around IMO.

That checks out - I've got a tool on the way, but it's from ali, so won't be here for a bit hehe - may have to just grab one from amazon in the meantime.

I assumed that would be the method, but I've only installed and bled hydraulics once, so didn't wanna miss anything super obvious.

[Dmgreen13]

That checks out - I've got a tool on the way, but it's from ali, so won't be here for a bit hehe - may have to just grab one from amazon in the meantime.

I assumed that would be the method, but I've only installed and bled hydraulics once, so didn't wanna miss anything super obvious.

There are a few LTwoo YouTube videos on bleeding the brakes that show it well.

[lantz]

There are a few LTwoo YouTube videos on bleeding the brakes that show it well.

Should have done the due diligence first - thanks for that!

[lantz]

Oh man, watching that installation video is pretty good!

Weirdly, I didn't get a sleeve to help mount the battery in the seat tube. *shrug* guess I'll just wrap some electrical tape to get it to stick?

[Dmgreen13]

Oh man, watching that installation video is pretty good!

Weirdly, I didn't get a sleeve to help mount the battery in the seat tube. *shrug* guess I'll just wrap some electrical tape to get it to stick?

No I just used some tape and packing foam my bike came in. Have done similar on other Shimano batteries in the past and it works fine.

[lavistaa]

YOu can disconnect the brifters from the lines and no fluid will come out- just do it with the levers not installed on the bars so you can orient their position relative to the calipers and keep the connection pointed towards the ceiling as you disconnect. Removing the brake pads and putting in spacers is key as is not squeezing the lever when it's disconnected:)

Once the hose is cut and re-barbed (push the olive ALL the way to the end and ensure it stays there otherwise if messes up the caliper port), tighten back up (you need an 8 & a 10 at the same time) and give it a pump.

Leave this connnected, bring the caliper above the levers (or vice versa) and then unscrew the caliper bleed port and attach a syringe with 50mm or so of oil already in it.  Screw in finger tight. 

Now turn the fill port open, and put a cup there about 30% full of fluid.  Pump a few more times, now push in the syringe very slowly.  Knock on the caliper and brifter as well as the lines esp near the caliper and where there are turns with a rubber hammer or screwdriver handle.

Now comes the important part!  It's vacuum, not pressure which bleeds brakes.  The system is normally at STP so there's always air in the system.  Using a vacuum you can pull out much more air including that dissolved in the fluid (at STP) for a really great feel.  Pull very slowly and see the bubbles come out of suspension.  Let it rest a minute and get all the bubbles to the top of the syringe before preceeding again until there's no bubbles for at least two syringe strokes at the cup or in the syringe under vacuum.

Now, seal the brifter first, then put it below the caliper.  Now undo the sryinge and you're done!  Take a ride very slowly and pump esp over bumps.   Make sure the feel doesn't change and you're done! Brakes fillers don't need "manstrength" (I'm female) btw, just slight torque not much at all esp at the brifters. More or less the same with connectors- I do them to maybe 5nm (by feel).

[lantz]

No I just used some tape and packing foam my bike came in. Have done similar on other Shimano batteries in the past and it works fine.

Installing brifters tonight, I can't remember where I read that the lines are already filled with mineral oil, maybe I'm crazy and made that up - was that the case for you?

[Dmgreen13]

Installing brifters tonight, I can't remember where I read that the lines are already filled with mineral oil, maybe I'm crazy and made that up - was that the case for you?

Yes the lines are pre filled with brake oil

[lantz]

Yes the lines are pre filled with brake oil

Nice, appreciate the insight!

[lantz]

Was able to get everything installed - awaiting wheels to get everything positioned, but some notes on challenges I had:

- Obviously, use wrenches. I tried to use pliers because I was missing a 5mm wrench and it just made shit very hard, ended up actually backing the hose out of the olive while half-compressed and had to replace the olive.
- As a second-time hydraulic user - realized that BH90 and BH59 olives are the same, it's the needle that's different - needed to order some anyway, so now I have a full set of both lol.
- Also, even though L-twoo uses shimano-style mineral oilt and not DOT fluid, the caliper actually uses the sram-style, recessed-threaded adapter - so, my shimano bleed kit didn't do the job, had to get a new adapter to fit the caliper.
- Ended up completely draining the l-twoo oil from the rear brake through all of the hubbub, which, whatever.
- Once I actually had everything connected up, it was a fucking cakewalk - *really* love the air release in the brifter, makes topping off so easy.

I didn't introduce any air or lose any substantial fluid on the front brake, so I now have one fully bled and replaced (rear) brake with shimano mineral oil and one completely untouched l-twoo-filled (front) brake. Both feel the same, nice and responsive, smooth pull, clear stoppage at a similar travel and quick return.

Fun experience to learn by; the more I do these, the more I learn how to be tidy with the mineral oil, haha.

[Sebastian]

Sorry if this question has been answered before but the search function didn’t help:

So which Shimano brake line standard dies LTWOO use? BH90 or BH59?

And: How exactly does the air screw in the brifter work?

Thanks!

[lantz]

I bought BH59 and BH90 hardware, the BH59 needles are what matched what came with the gruppo.

In regards to the air screw: It's meant to be a "final top off" - kind of an escape valve to run a smidge more oil up and out of the line to be sure there's no air after closing the line off. They have a pretty good video here:

They say explicitly not to mix the fluids - but I also watched the Klein Cycling installation and he fully used Shimano mineral oil (red) to top off the brifters - I bled my entire back line out and replaced with full red, so I'm not intermingling, but I don't think there's actually any harm/risk.