Hygge Aero Carbon Frame

[Ronronson]

So, turns out that lip is the limit line for the seatpost.. if you want the seatpost to go in further then you need to cut. I got it out, or i should say my LBS did.

[Stephiso]

Well the tiny bit of play is back after a ~100km this time (a few rides)


Not sure how i can add a 0.5mm C shaped spacer to the headset. Can't it just slip out or the compression will hold it in place?



I think i will go ahead and order the Specialized design mentioned by @fabxyz on ali

[Serge_K]

Not sure how i can add a 0.5mm C shaped spacer to the headset. Can't it just slip out or the compression will hold it in place?
I think i will go ahead and order the Specialized design mentioned by @fabxyz on ali

Compression would keep it in place, shouldn't move. And you have hoses in the part that requires it to be C shaped rather than a full ring anyway, so it can't really go anywhere.

That said, if there's a cheap AliExpress version that is known to fix the problem, it's probably worth biting the bullet, if you tell me I can pay 20 bucks to get rid of play for good, I'd make that trade every time.

[Ronronson]

I've put some miles on my Hygge Model S, and here are my general thoughts:
Pros
Paint Job: The paint job is superb. While I think purple on blue would look better, it's hard to fault it at this price point. However, the paint scratches easily, so be careful during the build process.
Delivery and Packaging: It arrived in about two weeks from China in a small box but was packaged well.
Value for Money: The bike offers incredible value for money. With the seatpost, bars, frame, and accessories all for around £550 delivered, it's hard to fault.
Ride Feel: The ride feel is subjective, but it feels planted and solid. I'm using Elite Edge 65mm wheels. While it’s not the quickest to get up to speed, it cruises better than my old SuperSix Evo. It’s a budget build, so there’s no power meter, but it seems quicker, possibly due to my extra effort to prove the aero benefits.
Attention-Grabbing: It turns heads and I’ve been able to outpace riders on bikes that cost five times as much.
General Comments
Handlebar: The handlebar is plenty stiff. Someone in the comments mentioned theirs was flexy, but I haven't experienced that.
Headset and Seatpost: I didn’t have any issues with the headset or seatpost slipping.
Cons
Cable Routing: The cable routing wasn’t easy. The handlebar has many sharp edges and limited space, making it a real challenge to get right.
Fork and Rear Triangle: The fork and rear triangle need to be stiffer. I don’t know if Hygge did this to help with compliance, but it’s not very confidence-inspiring. Adding some more carbon in these areas, even for the sake of 100g, would be beneficial.
Lack of EPS Molding: The down tube and top tube are pretty creased, although the headtube isn’t too bad. EPS molding would be a nice touch.
The total cost for the build was around £1250. The Elite wheels took 65 days to arrive, but I took advantage of Choice Day and got them for £365 delivered. The R9 shifters, which were £35, work well with Ultegra 8100. The only downside is the thumb shifters, which make it impossible to shift on the drops.

[Serge_K]

Value for Money: The bike offers incredible value for money. With the seatpost, bars, frame, and accessories all for around £550 delivered, it's hard to fault.
The total cost for the build was around £1250.
The Elite wheels took 65 days to arrive, but I took advantage of Choice Day and got them for £365 delivered.
The R9 shifters, which were £35, work well with Ultegra 8100. The only downside is the thumb shifters, which make it impossible to shift on the drops.

Impressive, it's a lot of bike for that money. Well done.

[Fleckinger]

3000 km update.
I have no issues with frame stiffness, a flexy handlebar with 30mm Grand Prix 5000 S TR feels very good, especially on a bumps. I've hit some potholes and poorly constructed storm drains (well below the asphalt level) at high speed without any damage to the rims, handlebar, or frame, only get pain in my palms and wrists.
The headset is also holding up well, with no play or marks on the steerer tube. The seatpost, tightened to 5 Nm, hasn't slipped at all.

As for the ZTTO hybrid brakes, well, they work. They're slightly better than my old rim brakes with SwissStop FlashPro Yellow King and Elite ENT wheels. However i can't recommend them. The force that needs to be applied to the brake lever to stop almost the same as on the rim brakes, and pistons doesn't work evenly. One piston barely moves, and there's some flex in the lever arm that pushes the hydraulic cylinder. In my opinion, mechanical calipers like Avid BB5 or BB7 would be a better choice.
The brakes also squeal at low speeds. I suspect this is due to the cheap pads (only $4 for two pairs). I've tried cleaning the rotors and pads, but the squealing persists. As a result, I've ordered Ashima ceramic pads, hoping they'll solve the problem.

I swapped the crankset to a Shimano 105 because the ZTTO BB for a 30mm spindle started clicking after 1,000 km. Since I already had a Shimano BB and cranks, I decided to save money by not buying a new BB for the 30mm spindle. To shave off some weight, I replaced the 105 chainrings and bolts with Ultegra ones. This brought the total crankset weight down from 750g to 698g. Interestingly, the 105 and Ultegra cranks without chainrings weigh the same.

Finally, I experienced some clicking noises from the rear axle. This happened when I switched the bike back and forth between a trainer and the rear wheel without properly cleaning the dropouts. Thankfully, a thorough cleaning solved the issue. I'm unsure if this is normal or not, as I never encountered it with quick-release skewers.

[repoman]

Do you think the brake performance is being hindered by the internal cable routing?
I'm thinking about building up a road bike and using an old 6800 Ultegra group I have but I'm a bit nervous about how mechanical will perform with internal routing...the turn at the handlebar into the stem then into the fork must be brutal on the brake cables.

[Fleckinger]

Do you think the brake performance is being hindered by the internal cable routing?
I'm thinking about building up a road bike and using an old 6800 Ultegra group I have but I'm a bit nervous about how mechanical will perform with internal routing...the turn at the handlebar into the stem then into the fork must be brutal on the brake cables.

No, I don't think internal routing significantly affects braking performance. As long as the pads haven't touched the disc, there's minimal resistance in the system. I use Jagwire KEB-SL brake housings. While they're definitely a pain to route due to their stiffness, they perform well overall.
That being said, these hydraulic disc brakes with internal routing feel similar to rim brakes, but with much more bite. With my old rim brakes on carbon rims, it was difficult to stop effectively on steep downhills (-15% grade). I could feel the pads smearing on the rim, and applying more pressure on the lever wouldn't increase braking power beyond a certain point. This isn't an issue with the disc brakes.
I suspect the ZTTO caliper's lever arm isn't very stiff. I can see some movement in the arm when I squeeze the brake lever after the pads make full contact with the rotor.
Shifting also works flawlessly. In fact, I'd say the front derailleur performs even better than on my previous bike with the same groupset but semi-internal routing. This improvement is likely due to the full-length housing.

[TidyDinosaur]

Do you think the brake performance is being hindered by the internal cable routing?
I'm thinking about building up a road bike and using an old 6800 Ultegra group I have but I'm a bit nervous about how mechanical will perform with internal routing...the turn at the handlebar into the stem then into the fork must be brutal on the brake cables.

My advise: just get a second had R8000 disc groupset and forget about mechanical disc brakes. They are not worth the hassle...

[Serge_K]

Yeah, last year I was using sensah with iiipro mechanical with keb SL housing. This year I'm on L-TWOO hydraulic brakes. They feel so much nicer. They both work, but hydraulic feels so much nicer.

[flowsniper]

I’ve been thinking about ordering this frame for a bit, and have the decided to go and do so. However, next to ordering the frame on AliExpress, Hygge also has their own website. I was wondering if someone has any experience with ordering directly from Hygge?

[Ronronson]

AliExpress has a sale from tomorrow. Stuff will drop in price including the model s frameset and you should get some discounts codes on the launch page...ie £65 off a £400 spend ( might be local sensitive)

[Thomas BT]

I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"

I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.

Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017)  with this frame ?

PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.

[Fleckinger]

I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"

I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.

Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017)  with this frame ?

PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.

Headtube on my bike is solid. Here some photo of downtube, hope it helps.

[repoman]

I have been reading so much on the forum that it is now so confusing to choose a "good frame"

I was originally going for LC017 but the down tube being as straight as a wall which is a no go, now I think that I will go with the Hygge model S but I can't find any picture with a clear view of the down tube shape.

Has anyone had experience with a bending head tube when you push on it (it is a common issue I've read about LC017)  with this frame ?

PS: If anyone wants to suggest me a frame I would be glad, I'm looking for a light climbing bike but not at the cost of aero like LC017 down tube.

You can't know much about aerodynamic efficiency by just looking at something. You need to test the stuff. Look at the nose of an F1 car, it's a very boxy shape.