VeloBuild VB-R-268 frame

[rga19071976@gmail.com]

Using the rough schematic from velobuild's website, I modeled the integrated handlebar in order to get the real reach measurement. I guessed on the stack of the headtube cover, would be much appreciated if anyone could provide an accurate measurement.

GOOD MORNING

IF YOU REFER TO THIS PIECE, IT MEASURES 14 MILLIMETERS

[jardo0o]

Nice job! Catia? 

Using the rough schematic from velobuild's website, I modeled the integrated handlebar in order to get the real reach measurement. I guessed on the stack of the headtube cover, would be much appreciated if anyone could provide an accurate measurement.

[dank_ganks]

Got my frame yesterday - will post pictures soon but I'm super happy with the frame.

@easyfunk I think I have the same issue with the rear thru axle insert as you - it arrived stripped and wouldn't seat. You said Chris is sending you a replacement part?

[antimeride]

GOOD MORNING

IF YOU REFER TO THIS PIECE, IT MEASURES 14 MILLIMETERS

That's the one, thanks! So, accounting for a gap between it and the frame, ~15mm is close enough.

[antimeride]

Nice job! Catia? 

FreeCAD

[jcr]

Is everyone running electronic groupset on this frame? Just wondering anyone thinking of going mechanical on it? Trying to see how bad the routing would be.... the LTwoo RX12 mechanical seem very cheap now.

[Easyfunk]

Is everyone running electronic groupset on this frame? Just wondering anyone thinking of going mechanical on it? Trying to see how bad the routing would be.... the LTwoo RX12 mechanical seem very cheap now.

I'm not sure how this will work out. There is no guiding for mechanical shifting. I assume you need to route the cables through the handlebar and the whole frame to the exit points. That will probably lead to a poor shifting performance, if it works at all.

[joegal]

I'm not sure how this will work out. There is no guiding for mechanical shifting. I assume you need to route the cables through the handlebar and the whole frame to the exit points. That will probably lead to a poor shifting performance, if it works at all.

Thats basically how its done on all fully-integrated mechanical builds. Not optimal nor hassle free, but works...

[Serge_K]

I have built 4 velobuild frames with sensah mechanical. it works. It's a MAJOR pain, but it works. Front derailleurs tend to be the worst performers. You kind of NEED to buy brake cables that are road specific. that way the other end is smooth and slides in housing despite the shitty angles. if you have cables that you snip on one end, unless you're a soldering maestro, the end of the wire catches in sharp angles in the housing and after a while you want to burn society to the ground and go live in the woods.

I havent ridden more than c.450km on my ltwoo er9, but so far i LOVE it. it means 2 cables instead of 4 to route via the headset area, which makes it a breeze in comparison. The geekiest may be mechanical at the back, and electronic at the front. that would a frankenbuild though. 3 cables much better than 4 still. You could do mechanical disc and mechanical shift at the rear, and hydraulic and electronic at the front. You would woo the ladies with your engineering acumen. They'd be like "please take me here now". Maybe.

[jcr]

I was more thinking of mechanical gear with hydraulic brakes but still 4 housing to route

[Mrtn]

I am running a mechanical 105 with hydraulic brakes.
I just finished routing after some struggles all cables through handlebar and frame, shifting cables completely until the derraileurs. Drilled out the FD stop, and the movement of the shifting cables inside the housings feels OK - but gotta see after finishing setting that up.

[jardo0o]

So, my build is done 

[patliean1]

Wow what paint color is that? Absolutely gorgeous!

[jardo0o]

Thank you! It's glossy pearl white.

[Tdiguy]

Very nice! Came out clean, white is my favorite for bikes. Looking to do a similar build as I picked up 105 DI2 last year on close out. Also looking at Elite wheels seem like good value for the money.