IP-256SL build [finished - photos]

[Cnasta]

Thnx for the reply. Thought about running housing through the frame, but not quite ready to start drilling my frame Think I'll try without first, if problems occur, I'll be running full lenght later.

Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?

The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.

I never build up an entire bike, but did do maintenance. Ajusting the derailleur should not be a problem (allthough it's a shitty job)

[MTB2223]

Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?

This is the last step. You can do it before installing the handlebar and fork, but reinstalling the handlebar and fork isn't that difficult.

The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.

My housings are long enough it won't touch the frame when I pull the steer complete to the right or to the left.
So, turn your steer complete to the right (shifter installed, uncut housing attached to the shifter (somehow)), guide your housing to the insert point of the frame, keep 2 cm clear between the curved housing and the frame. And this is the length you need. That's it.

[Cnasta]

Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?

This is the last step. You can do it before installing the handlebar and fork, but reinstalling the handlebar and fork isn't that difficult.

The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.

My housings are long enough it won't touch the frame when I pull the steer complete to the right or to the left.
So, turn your steer complete to the right (shifter installed, uncut housing attached to the shifter (somehow)), guide your housing to the insert point of the frame, keep 2 cm clear between the curved housing and the frame. And this is the length you need. That's it.

Thnx, got the lenght figured out more or less (at least, on the front). Confused with the parts I should use when installing the housing.

I've got an XTR shifter and it came with 1 cable (which I cut in two parts), 2 end caps, some other stuff (guess for frames using external routing).

I think this should be the right way:
FRONT
housing goes into shifter without end cap [edit] wrong, it looks like I should use an end cap here [/edit]
housing goes into frame with end cap

BACK
Frame to cable, with end cap
Housing to derailler, whith end cap with tongue
Unprotected cable to last part of derailler, partly shielded

This makes 3 end caps, than why are the only 2 included with the XTR shifter??

Correct?

[bdub]

Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?

This is the last step. You can do it before installing the handlebar and fork, but reinstalling the handlebar and fork isn't that difficult.

The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.

My housings are long enough it won't touch the frame when I pull the steer complete to the right or to the left.
So, turn your steer complete to the right (shifter installed, uncut housing attached to the shifter (somehow)), guide your housing to the insert point of the frame, keep 2 cm clear between the curved housing and the frame. And this is the length you need. That's it.

Thnx, got the lenght figured out more or less (at least, on the front). Confused with the parts I should use when installing the housing.

I've got an XTR shifter and it came with 1 cable (which I cut in two parts), 2 end caps, some other stuff (guess for frames using external routing).

I think this should be the right way:
FRONT
housing goes into shifter without end cap [edit] wrong, it looks like I should use an end cap here [/edit]
housing goes into frame with end cap

BACK
Frame to cable, with end cap
Housing to derailler, whith end cap with tongue
Unprotected cable to last part of derailler, partly shielded

This makes 3 end caps, than why are the only 2 included with the XTR shifter??

Correct?

The number end caps you need is correct. I used a Jagwire kit but my XT shifter came with 2 end caps on the housing plus a few in the bag. When you say there are only 2 end caps are you counting the ones that ware already on the housing?

[Cnasta]

Guess this would be the time to insert the noise-cancelling foam as well?

This is the last step. You can do it before installing the handlebar and fork, but reinstalling the handlebar and fork isn't that difficult.

The order is clear to me now, however the lenght of the housing is a bit difficult to guess (the handlebar is not on the bike). Offcourse I can do an educated guess. And too long is better than too short, but still. Is there anybody with a 17,5" frame and a 700mm handlebar that can measure the lenght of the housing? The backside is no problem, the derailleur is allready on, and the lenght can be more or less the same as on my previous bike.

My housings are long enough it won't touch the frame when I pull the steer complete to the right or to the left.
So, turn your steer complete to the right (shifter installed, uncut housing attached to the shifter (somehow)), guide your housing to the insert point of the frame, keep 2 cm clear between the curved housing and the frame. And this is the length you need. That's it.

Thnx, got the lenght figured out more or less (at least, on the front). Confused with the parts I should use when installing the housing.

I've got an XTR shifter and it came with 1 cable (which I cut in two parts), 2 end caps, some other stuff (guess for frames using external routing).

I think this should be the right way:
FRONT
housing goes into shifter without end cap [edit] wrong, it looks like I should use an end cap here [/edit]
housing goes into frame with end cap

BACK
Frame to cable, with end cap
Housing to derailler, whith end cap with tongue
Unprotected cable to last part of derailler, partly shielded

This makes 3 end caps, than why are the only 2 included with the XTR shifter??

Correct?

The number end caps you need is correct. I used a Jagwire kit but my XT shifter came with 2 end caps on the housing plus a few in the bag. When you say there are only 2 end caps are you counting the ones that ware already on the housing?

Mine only came with 2 on the housing. In the bag I only found the longer ones (with tongue) and some of those longer rubbery protection things (for external routing)...

[Cnasta]

Too busy with other stuff, but made some small progress:

Installed brakeline of rear brake. Can't connect because I had to order the olive for my Formula C1 Couldn't re-use the old one.

Finished my rear wheel (or at least, the wheelbuilder did, and I helped). Installed AbsoluteBlack rear cog and discs. Now waiting for front wheel.

Got myself the missing end-cap for the shifter cablehousing, ready to cut to lenght now.

Problems:
Handlebar seems to thin for my brake-lever (completely closed, it can still move). Anybody any ideas?

Disc fits quit nice, but how do you correctly install the brake-caliper? Just try to center the disc?

Picture:

[MTB2223]

Problems:
Handlebar seems to thin for my brake-lever (completely closed, it can still move). Anybody any ideas?

Use an old inner tube.

Disc fits quit nice, but how do you correctly install the brake-caliper? Just try to center the disc?

Loosen the screws of the brake-caliper, pull the brake-lever multiple times and then keep pulling, tighten the screws. Don't tighten the one full and then the other (like shown on youtube), but one by one a little till they both tightened. (you can only do this installation step when the brake is fully installed).

At 4:59 ( and at 6:52 a great tip ):

[Cnasta]

Thnx, thought of the inner-tube solution as well, think that is de way to go.

The caliper alignment sound logical, could have thought about that myself (but didn't ).

[bdub]

You can already wrap some Gorilla Tape around your handlebar if you don't have an old tube.

[7]

Problems:
Handlebar seems to thin for my brake-lever (completely closed, it can still move). Anybody any ideas?

One thing that comes to mind is teflon tape. When I rode dirt bikes I would always put a couple wraps of teflon tape around the bars where the clutch and brake attached. When I crashed the teflon tape would allow the levers to spin instead of breaking. Point being the teflon tape is cheap, easy to use, clean, and will take up some space.

[Cnasta]

Thnx, fixed it with an old inner tube. Now I just have to wait for the olive to arrive so I can attach the brakecable to the lever.

After that, I think I have all part to finish the build.

What do you guys recon for the routing of the cables? Does the frontbrakecable go between the frame and the right shifter- and brakecable, or outside?

[MTB2223]

What do you guys recon for the routing of the cables? Does the frontbrakecable go between the frame and the right shifter- and brakecable, or outside?

This is the routing of my cables. It's not an actual picture. I have removed the FD and the FD cable and FD shifter:
Routing the cables this way, it never touch the frame, even when I turn the steer completely to the right or the left.

[Cnasta]

Thnx, my routing will be a bit closer to the frame (brakeline is quite short, and not happy to replace the whole line ). Will put some protective tape under. When upgrading brakes (if C1's really suck as much as I read no the internet), I'll buy some longer lines.

Main thing to see is that the front brakecable goes in between the frame and the cables coming from the right). I ride with a rigid fork, and the front brakecalbe is attached on the backside of the fork (yours is fixed in the front), so mine cable will go on the topoutside of the fork I recon.

[Cnasta]

Hey,

It's been a while since I worked on the frame. Did roadracing during summer, and ran 2 marathons. Used my fully in the hills, now ready for the mud-season, so finishing my bike.

I have BIG problem I'm afraid. I have tru-axle drop-out. When I loosely insert my wheel (axle through the holes, not tightens) the wheel tuns both ways. When I tighten the axle, the wheel one turn one way (forward spinning, cassette is freewheeling). The other way, it makes noise and hardly turns. I looks like my cassette (10sp XT, 36T or 40T, both a problem) rubs the drop-out or something.

Anybody any clue??

[MTB2223]

There's something wrong with your freehub.
If it rubs your frame, you can see that. But I think that's not the problem.