Advice for new crankset.

[Rone69]

Hello everyone, I am asking you for advice to choose a new crankset, I would like to try shorter cranks than the current ones, not to imitate the pros, but just because I am 55 years old and I understand that using shorter cranks allows less stress on the joints, being an experiment I would like to avoid spending large sums of money, currently I use a Shimano FC-R8000 crankset and a BB-Right bottom bracket, can you suggest me some model that meets these specs? I do not care that it is particularly light, but that it is robust and reliable.
Thanks in advance to anyone who would like to contribute.

[Da11as]

Do you consider switching bottom bracket as well? If not, then you are limited to 24mm axle. I strongly suggest to avoid 24mm alloy spindle which further reduces the options. In such case I recommend you Rotor Aldhu constructor as a future-proof choice. If it will work for you, you may upgrade it to more fancy rotor cranks of desired lenght or install a dependable powermeter (Power2Max).

If you want super cheap option, get these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1000006338700.html , steel axle, hollow forged, 3 bolt spider interface, not the lightest. I have two of these and got no issues in a long time. Consider buying chainrings separately, as these are not the best ones. You may try to use this spider with your original chainrings, should be fine in theory: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007846266345.html

[jonathanf2]

Do you consider switching bottom bracket as well? If not, then you are limited to 24mm axle. I strongly suggest to avoid 24mm alloy spindle which further reduces the options.

Everyone keeps saying these alloy axles will break, but I've been using three 7075 T6 24mm alloy axle carbon cranksets and they work just fine. I haven't seen any photos from any of the more recent Riro/Racework axles breaking. If someone weighs upwards of 90kg plus are worried about snapping axles, flexy bike frames, stress on carbon wheels, etc., well that's a big boy problem. I wouldn't even be looking at weight weenie parts whatsoever.

[ancientone]

Hello everyone, I am asking you for advice to choose a new crankset, I would like to try shorter cranks than the current ones, not to imitate the pros, but just because I am 55 years old and I understand that using shorter cranks allows less stress on the joints, being an experiment I would like to avoid spending large sums of money, currently I use a Shimano FC-R8000 crankset and a BB-Right bottom bracket, can you suggest me some model that meets these specs? I do not care that it is particularly light, but that it is robust and reliable.
Thanks in advance to anyone who would like to contribute.

How fast do you go ? I am thinking it should be the other way, if you use a longer crank, you are placing less power to turn, and therefore less stress on the joins, although your legs travel a further distance, and if you use a bigger chainring, your heart is working less...

[Rone69]

Everyone keeps saying these alloy axles will break, but I've been using three 7075 T6 24mm alloy axle carbon cranksets and they work just fine. I haven't seen any photos from any of the more recent Riro/Racework axles breaking. If someone weighs upwards of 90kg plus are worried about snapping axles, flexy bike frames, stress on carbon wheels, etc., well that's a big boy problem. I wouldn't even be looking at weight weenie parts whatsoever.

Thank you very much.
The first link don't work.
Yes Im looking for a cheap alternative.
I don't want remove/replace the BB.
I have seen this crankset, although reading the comments of the owners there seems to be a problem with the spindle/axle that seems to be a little longer than the Shimano's, it should be necessary to install a spacer.

https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006694977287.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.ccd0b7c1X0gekp&algo_pvid=9d36a05d-1860-4aec-bbe5-580cbe157e56&algo_exp_id=9d36a05d-1860-4aec-bbe5-580cbe157e56-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2167.37%2130.99%21%21%21505.40%21232.48%21%40211b619a17337342559648472e8cc9%2112000038868915109%21sea%21IT%21817153087%21X&curPageLogUid=uT0HGqePueBK&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita#nav-specification

[Da11as]

Everyone keeps saying these alloy axles will break, but I've been using three 7075 T6 24 mm alloy axle carbon cranksets and they work just fine. I haven't seen any photos from any of the more recent Riro/Racework axles breaking. If someone weighs upwards of 90kg plus are worried about snapping axles, flexy bike frames, stress on carbon wheels, etc., well that's a big boy problem. I wouldn't even be looking at weight weenie parts whatsoever.

The problem is the worn rates if the bearings start to fail. It had happened to me with alloy 30 mm axle, in 30 kms I shaved considerable amount of material off the axle rendering its useless. In case of 24 mm axle not only stress is higher for less material, but that damage occur faster as well as critical failure. If you are somewhat strong cyclist, competitive or just have a good sprint I suggest to avoid alloy 24 mm. There is a reason why it is steel for big manufacturers.

[numberzero]

I have seen this crankset, although reading the comments of the owners there seems to be a problem with the spindle/axle that seems to be a little longer than the Shimano's, it should be necessary to install a spacer.

I bought this one to test 165mm crankset. On one bike with bb386 I needed to put one washer each side to remove lateral play, if you have an old bearing take the 2 seals for that, it's enough. On another bike with bsa i didn't need washers so i'm not sure if it comes from a too long crank axle or the bottom bracket?

Chainrings are pretty light and work great.
Crank material seems soft, i bend the drive side crank in a nasty crash and was able to get it back right. On normal use i don't feel any problem.

You have to know that the cranks are totally flat, so depending on your feet placement, the shoes can rub easily at the heel.

As a conclusion, if you're not a weightweenie, it's a very good option for the price.

[Rone69]

When you installed the shorter cranks, did you keep the same chainring or did you insert chainring with 1 or 2 extra tooth?

[numberzero]

When you installed the shorter cranks did you keep the same crown, or did you put in crowns with 1 or 2 more tooth?

I kept the same size of chainring and sprocket. In my case shorter crank 165 vs 172.5 helps to pedal with moree velocity, i gained 5 to 10 rpm. I just use a biggest cog at the rear. For example i oticed on climbs when i used 39-25 with 75-80 rpm, now i prefer using 39-28 with 85-90 rpm.
Everybody is different, if you're very sensitive to your cadence and gear ratio, you could need a change in chainrings or in rear sprocket.

[Rone69]

I am 55 years old and overweight, I ride slowly uphill, on climbs from 9% upwards I use 34/28 at a very low cadence, 65rpm, do you think I could benefit from using shorter cranksets?

[Takiyaki]

I am 55 years old and overweight, I ride slowly uphill, on climbs from 9% upwards I use 34/28 at a very low cadence, 65rpm, do you think I could benefit from using shorter cranksets?

Everyone is different but I usually ride 170 and tried 165 on my gravel bike.... I hate it, I was surprised at how big of a difference it was; cranks feel like they are for a kid's bike. But Aliexpress cranks are good and cheap; give one a try and see what happens. Could be the fix you need

[numberzero]

do you think I could benefit from using shorter cranksets?

I'm not bike fitter or else so i can't answer for you. With the short crank, even more on flats than uphill  my "natural" cadence has increased.
Many says a short crank helps with hip joints, knee joints,... due to a reduction of the motion range, this can't be bad.

Thanks to ali you can make a really cheap test, i would say don't die idiot and try, just in case you had difficulty with your 34/28 because of lowest leverage change your maximum ratio to 34/30 or 34/32.

[Da11as]

The first link don't work.

Look up "Z Race HardRock Road Chainset".

I am 55 years old and overweight, I ride slowly uphill, on climbs from 9% upwards I use 34/28 at a very low cadence, 65rpm, do you think I could benefit from using shorter cranksets?

If you are overweight you are likely have reduced mobility. In such cases shorter cranks may benefit you negating sharp angles in knee/hip joints. Give it a try, mostly likely you wouldn't notice the difference yourself but your bunch buddies may notice you are more stable in the saddle. Dont forget to adjust seat height and fore/aft.

[womble73]

I am 55 years old and overweight, I ride slowly uphill, on climbs from 9% upwards I use 34/28 at a very low cadence, 65rpm, do you think I could benefit from using shorter cranksets?

A recent comment from my bike fitter as I am almost in a similar position as you. Move to the 165 crank (I am currently running a 175 on my TT bike), it will allow for smoother rotation and less stress around the hips in the aero position. She was being nice without saying the gut would no longer get in the way as the knees don't come up as high and would allow for a much more aligned stroke. You may not touch the gut with your legs but it will cause still your butt to wobble side to side on the seat during the stroke (can't remember the term). The shorter peddle will reduce that allowing for more direct power. My new bike has a 165mm but not tested the theory yet.

[Rone69]

I just realised that the crankset is GXp, so I guess this crankset is neither compatible with a BBright bottom bracket nor with an Ultegra FD-R8000 derailleur, what do you think about?


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004987770890.html?pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21%E2%82%AC+45%2C19%21%E2%82%AC+45%2C19%21%21%21337.00%21337.00%21%40211b6a7a17338950582208346e89b1%2112000031251659531%21sh%21IT%21817153087%21X&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_allItems_or_groupList.new_all_items_2007601220950.1005004987770890&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita#nav-specification



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