Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame

[jonathanf2]

Turns out it's the FD attachment plate screws that are blocking further insertion of the battery holder. If I back the top screw out, the seat post slides further down.
Can't find any matching but shorter screws in my collection. I could try shortening these particular screws as a lot of it is unused into the frame.
If only I knew what size and thread pitch these were I could look up some alternatives...

These are the bottle cage screws I'm using with no issue. i can insert and remove my ER9 battery holder with no issue.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806670442432.html

On the bright side you already have another frameset owner who has pioneered this installation! When I was trying to figuring all of this out, I was about to give up and just order a Wheeltop EDS TX groupset! 

[jonathanf2]

I had added it to my wish list and the price was around 80 euros...this morning when I saw that price, I rushed to order it immediately because it indicated only one item available...once I confirmed the order, the price went back to the previous one (almost 80 euros).

Should the foam tube be applied along the entire length of the brake cable that remains inside the frame, or just in some specific points?
Thanks

I would install the foam tubing on the brake hose first. Also I would stop the foam tubing right at the head tube area. On my R088, I think I put too much foam tubing which caused rubbing on the C-ring. It made some inadvertent rubbing sounds, so I had to remove everything and trim the foam tubing. It would only happen when I was turning the handle bars.

[jonathanf2]

I ordered wheeltop groupset because I was tired of waiting for affordable er9 shipping to Canada. I also thought that I would not have to bother placing the battery in the seatpost!

Yeah, that was my initial recommendation from the beginning, either Wheeltop or SRAM AXS. The ER9/X is doable, but it's extra work and does require some DIY know-how. My other idea would be the new wireless LTwoo eTX with replaceable batteries. I could totally imagine building a 1x climbing frame with a large ratio cassette using that groupset!

[Bonus79]

You are really overthinking this  Just shove it in until you can’t and you are good to go.

As I wrote, this is the first time I'll have to assemble a frame by myself, so I'd like to have everything I need at home before starting to build the frame....as well as knowing how to use it. 

[user757]

These are the bottle cage screws I'm using with no issue. i can insert and remove my ER9 battery holder with no issue.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806670442432.html

On the bright side you already have another frameset owner who has pioneered this installation! When I was trying to figuring all of this out, I was about to give up and just order a Wheeltop EDS TX groupset! 

I suppose the easiest thing would be to just cut the seat post as you did. Gonna make that the last resort if there's not enough space with proper saddle height.
Just used the vernier calipers to get accurate measurements on the bolt. Haven't searched for these hex bolts in store before--anyone think Home Depot/Lowe's will carry a huge selection of these to find the right one?
Good source at this link, but would rather not wait for shipping: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804346937100.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

[j0lsrud]

Photos of the build! As I mentioned previously, I can't ride the bike right now due to major fires in my area, so I can't comment on ride quality until things clear up. I've included close-ups of the UD glossy raw finish. In-person it looks like black marbling, similar to a bowling ball with similar finish! Also I pre-applied clear protection decals to certain areas of the frame. Some of the straight lines in the finish are from the protection decaling.

That stem/handlebar combo looks slick to be a non-integrated handlebar. I assume it is Uno stem, but what handlebar is that? And another thing - did the top cover for the headset come with the frame kit?

[jonathanf2]

That stem/handlebar combo looks slick to be a non-integrated handlebar. I assume it is Uno stem, but what handlebar is that? And another thing - did the top cover for the headset come with the frame kit?

It's a Balugoe 34cm bar with built-in computer mount. A top cover does come with the provided headset, but I used a different expander plug and a spacer computer mount as my phone holder.

[jonathanf2]

I suppose the easiest thing would be to just cut the seat post as you did. Gonna make that the last resort if there's not enough space with proper saddle height.
Just used the vernier calipers to get accurate measurements on the bolt. Haven't searched for these hex bolts in store before--anyone think Home Depot/Lowe's will carry a huge selection of these to find the right one?
Good source at this link, but would rather not wait for shipping: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804346937100.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt

Did you try sliding the battery holder around the cage bolts? It has to go in at a certain angle, but once you do that it goes all the way to the bottom. The ribbon string will allow you to pull it out for maintenance. If your seat post is still too long, cutting it isn't a big deal. It's just like cutting a fork steerer. Also I believe the R088 uses the same shape seat post as the SL8, there are quite a few aftermarket seat post on AliEx if you just want to get a shorter one and avoid cutting.

[user757]

Did you try sliding the battery holder around the cage bolts? It has to go in at a certain angle, but once you do that it goes all the way to the bottom. The ribbon string will allow you to pull it out for maintenance. If your seat post is still too long, cutting it isn't a big deal. It's just like cutting a fork steerer. Also I believe the R088 uses the same shape seat post as the SL8, there are quite a few aftermarket seat post on AliEx if you just want to get a shorter one and avoid cutting.

Ya, it definitely needs that particular screw backed out to allow it down further. I even held the bike angled to let gravity pull the battery holder away from the bolt, no help. Got a tip to check Ace hardware for bolts/screws.
I noticed you wrote bottle cage screws before... Maybe it was a mistype, but it's the FD screws further down causing the issue (the bottle cage screws are a different, bigger size). Can't take an adequate picture inside the frame with my camera for obvious reasons, but you can easily see it looking down the frame.  The bottle cage screws don't protrude (at least with my frame) but the FD plate screws do; you can see them go into the frame void in the last 3 or so mm of travel. So if I can get an M2.5 screw that's about 10mm, that'd be the optimal screw for this frame.
Also I should add that I took out the top bottle cage screw and it made no difference to insertion depth. Also used a paperclip through that hole to try to guide the battery holder away and down, no help.

[jonathanf2]

Ya, it definitely needs that particular screw backed out to allow it down further. I even held the bike angled to let gravity pull the battery holder away from the bolt, no help. Got a tip to check Ace hardware for bolts/screws.
I noticed you wrote bottle cage screws before... Maybe it was a mistype, but it's the FD screws further down causing the issue (the bottle cage screws are a different, bigger size). Can't take an adequate picture inside the frame with my camera for obvious reasons, but you can easily see it looking down the frame.  The bottle cage screws don't protrude (at least with my frame) but the FD plate screws do; you can see them go into the frame void in the last 3 or so mm of travel. So if I can get an M2.5 screw that's about 10mm, that'd be the optimal screw for this frame.
Also I should add that I took out the top bottle cage screw and it made no difference to insertion depth. Also used a paperclip through that hole to try to guide the battery holder away and down, no help.

I got my ER9 battery holder as far down the seat post as possible. Though the battery prevents an uncut seat post to go all the way down. I presume this isn't an issue with Di2 since the battery is more slim. I'm using the stock FD screws on my R088 and it hasn't been an issue with battery insertion. FYI - I'd probably add loctite to those screws, my FD screws loosened up after several rides and I had to remove the FD and retighten them.

[user757]

Fortunately Ace Hardware had just what I was looking for. An 8mm length screw was just right. It wasn't painted so I even spray painted it black to match.
Only thing is the two FD attachment plate bosses are unevenly placed into the frame, so the lower one is further in such that it doesn't matter what screw is in that slot, the boss blocks the battery holder from sliding further regardless just as the bottle cage bosses do. Oh well, at least I gained a couple cm or so of distance.
The good thing with this seat post-seat tube setup is since it's so tight, I'm guessing slippage is less likely.
Given how uneven the two FD plate bosses are, I wouldn't be surprised if other frames are fine with no blockage.
Still have to wait until a few tools and supplies arrive before I continue with the build.

[simo8891]

1st post but joined this forum looking for a more 'budget friendly' frame that I won't see on my regular club rides and will be suitable for cruising around the Chilterns in the UK.

After the feedback on here decided to get this frame.

My frame apparently departed 3 days ago, so should be in my hands soon, likely next week, with any luck.

Planned build:

R088 size large UD Glossy (liked this look a lot on others builds)

Ultegra R8020 shifters and R8070 brakes
GRX 812 derailleur
CSM8000 Cassette (11-42)
Dura Ace 9100 Crankset 
Pass Quest 1x chain ring

Have all of the groupset parts together now.

for wheels I am thinking of these:

https://www.xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/t1100-carbon-spokes-700c-tubeless-26mm-internal-wide-disc-brake-road-gravel-bike-carbon-wheelsets-with-20-20h-straight-through-version-hubs

Need payday to arrive before I bite the bullet on them.

Finishing kit wise need to see whether I want to run the elita one SL8 bars (which are in customs) or a separate stem/bars like I do on my other bikes.

Hoping once built that this is a fairly lightweight 'all rounder' type ride.

Not seen anyone build this frame with mechanical yet, so hoping that the one extra cable to route through the frame/bars is not too much of a ball ache.

[Jouke]

1st post but joined this forum looking for a more 'budget friendly' frame that I won't see on my regular club rides and will be suitable for cruising around the Chilterns in the UK.

After the feedback on here decided to get this frame.

My frame apparently departed 3 days ago, so should be in my hands soon, likely next week, with any luck.

Planned build:

R088 size large UD Glossy (liked this look a lot on others builds)

Ultegra R8020 shifters and R8070 brakes
GRX 812 derailleur
CSM8000 Cassette (11-42)
Dura Ace 9100 Crankset 
Pass Quest 1x chain ring

Have all of the groupset parts together now.

for wheels I am thinking of these:

https://www.xmcarbonspeed.cc/products/t1100-carbon-spokes-700c-tubeless-26mm-internal-wide-disc-brake-road-gravel-bike-carbon-wheelsets-with-20-20h-straight-through-version-hubs

Need payday to arrive before I bite the bullet on them.

Finishing kit wise need to see whether I want to run the elita one SL8 bars (which are in customs) or a separate stem/bars like I do on my other bikes.

Hoping once built that this is a fairly lightweight 'all rounder' type ride.

Not seen anyone build this frame with mechanical yet, so hoping that the one extra cable to route through the frame/bars is not too much of a ball ache.

Nice! Welcome here . I also chose this frame as my first build in years. I have build up around 6 Bikes myself; but that was around 20 years ago. Dealing with chinese frames was a pain in A back then.You will be the first one here to set it up mechanically. Curious to see how it works out; shouldnt be a problem though.  I hope this build goes smoothly. Still contemplating Wheeltop groupset/Di2 /Sram electric or mechanical. Depends on what I can get my hands on I guess. I ordered the XL frame in Pearl White. Going for that Bora Hansgrohe look

[simo8891]

I'll post pictures when it arrives and I start to build it up.

I have built a couple of mountain bikes and switched the groupset on my Crux in the past year or so. If I take my time I'm sure i'll get it sorted.

Look forward to seeing how your build goes.

[Tilmanstoa5ty]

Not seen anyone build this frame with mechanical yet, so hoping that the one extra cable to route through the frame/bars is not too much of a ball ache.

Welcome to the forum and good luck with your build! Mechanical shouldn’t be an issue. The bottom bracket area is quite tight but still enough space to run all the cables. If you are running separate bar and stem and use the headset cover that comes with the frame routing the cables through the headset shouldn’t be too difficult either.