X-Goods | 216 | 29er

[drfragnasty]

This isn't my first build, I've put together a few carbon roadies (all from Flyxii) but it's my first 29er from X-Goods.

http://www.x-goods.com/en/products/xg-fr-216-matt.html

Frame is 19" and fits v.well, I took it for a spin this afternoon and it's comfortable.

There were three issues with the build, the biggest is the Flyxii headset won't tighten down.  The frame is 1 1/8" top, 1 1/2" bottom with a Rockshox Reba constant 1 1/8th steerer tube.
I bought a 1 1/8th to 1 1/2" adapter for the bottom race and I cut the steerer so there's 3 mm clearance for the top cap  but it still won't torque up; something seems to be preventing it from
maintaining compression. The cap design doesn't instil confidence.

Here's the headset so where do the paper-thin steel spacers go?




XT Groupset included the wrong shifters; Wiggle have come good however and offered to ship me the right ones for no charge and I keep the old ones!

XT Groupset had the brake levers set for US riders (right brake lever operates rear brake) so I've swapped them over and as this was my first foray into hydraulic hose cutting/ swapping it went a bit pear-shaped but nothing a bleed kit can't fix. If could find one locally that is.

No rear brake, I'm waiting on an insert and "olive" for the rear hose.

[Carbon_Dude]

Thanks for posting your build experience.  The thin metal spacers go under the top cap to provide clearance between the top cap and the frame.  There is another recent thread showing the stack up if you do a quick search.

[MTB2223]

There is another recent thread showing the stack up if you do a quick search.

http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,553.0.html

[drfragnasty]

Mucho obligato to you both.

It turns out the top bolt had fused with the inner threaded housing and there was no clearance for compression; tightening the bolt did nothing but fuse them even tighter.
 
I've since disassembled and greased all surfaces (except for the critical interference) ensured there's a gap and it's much better. Hard to visualise I know. If anyone else has trouble I can take photos.

[drfragnasty]

Took the bike for a 40km club ride today on roads. Shifting is flawless, geometry is pretty much spot on.
Long hours in the saddle is a bind; off road not so much of a problem I guess. 2.2 Maxis Ikons at 50psi
made it plush but it was hard going keeping up with mostly roadies.

Headset isn't right; it creaks and groans despite lots of tweaking.

Anyone recommend a headset to fit a non-taper 1 1/8" fork steerer to the 1 1/8th - 1 1/2" frame?

[drfragnasty]

Headsets 101

This Slow Twitch article suggests using the star fangled nut for alloy steerers rather than compression nuts
which are for carbon.

http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Headset_How-To_-_Part_2_3159.html

Installing star fangled nuts on the cheap, see last post:
http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/star-fangled-nut-install-12784.html

[Carbon_Dude]

I like the idea of the star nut for aluminum steer tubes but can't cmplain much about the cypress ion nuts I have on my two bikes, I really have had no issues int that respect alough I can feel the tiniest bit of play in my IP-036 stem, which is likely dur to tolerances between the bearing and race, or a mismatch between the bearing taper angle and the angle if the race.  I have not botherered to look into it any further as it is so slight I don't notice it but once or so on a ride, just when I hit a rock or root just right.

[cmh]

Installing star fangled nuts on the cheap, see last post:
http://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/star-fangled-nut-install-12784.html

Guessing you're referring to the post from Timbo - interesting approach - but who has a length of 5mm threaded rod on hand? I sure don't. Unless he's using a smaller diameter rod and putting a nut on that. Another problem is I've seen a bunch of carbon forks which don't have the bottom of the steerer tube open.

Still, that's a pretty cool approach, and there are a bunch of places that something like that could work - thanks!

[drfragnasty]

Star fangled nut installed and it's better but there's still play in the headset. Not a lot, but more than both my other bikes.
It's not an issue unless it gets more than a bee's knackers wobble.


Installing the Brake Hose
Installed the rear brake hose starting with surgical precision threading some fishing leader through the plastic tube:




Looking good; a self-tapper used to attach the thread to the hose for pulling it through:



...then it went a bit pear-shaped. Spot the error:



...then it went even further off course when I tripped over the fishing leader pulling it right through leaving nothing in the frame.

No matter! Out of curiousity I pushed the hose through from the bottom (without the hose nut and cover) and it went straight through emerging at the top exit point.
I don't know why they leave the plastic tube in, it wasn't needed.


Weight
AUW is 10.43Kg or 23.1lbs for the  Liberians, USA and Burmese.


 

[byrt]

wow looks great!!

[drfragnasty]

Thanks Byrt!

Please ignore the crappy pedals, they're going as soon as the Expedos get here.

[Carbon_Dude]

Looks good!  Let us know how you like the ride.

[drfragnasty]

Spent today at Hollybank Juggernaut and with tyre pressure TBH too high it copped a hiding but still held together. The headset was a concern but was fine.
Rigid BB/ chainstays allow all your efforts to be channelled into propulsion. This is a very stiff frame. Everything else held together and the XT gears are great.

[MTB2223]

Very nice bike!

But, where is your front derailleur ? I can see you're riding the bike with 2x10, but your FD is missing ?
Please keep in mind the chainrings aren't narrow wide, which means the chain can fall of 'easily'. It's a pity if you mesh up your frame because you aren't using a chain guide/FD..

[drfragnasty]

Thanks.
TBH I'm not sure if I'll bother with the front DR, there were enough ratios there for today.
The rear DR is clutched and the chain didn't come off.
If it does I'll defo look at a guide.