After breaking my 256, here is my brand new CS-041

[cmh]

If you find your gear cable clogging up, before drilling out your frame, you could try these:

http://www.wiggle.com.au/transfil-flying-snake-gear-cable-set/

They come with a liner that goes between the inner and outer cables, and completely seals the inner cable from mud and water. I have then on a few bikes, included my road bike which has internal routing, and they work well.

I haven't used that specific brand, but I've used Gore, which is very similar, offering the plastic tube from shifter to derailleur. Worked well, especially since it was teflon coated cable inside teflon tubing, but I found that it would still wear through if the cable entrance/exit wasn't perfect, and then you'd be in the same spot. The stuff you link is not bad, $28 for a set, but the Gore stuff was ridiculously expensive, about twice that last that I looked. I've also used Nokon (because weight weenie) and the liner tubing is much more durable, but that's even more expensive, and ultimately I didn't think it was that great. One thing it is good for, and I still use it for, is exceptionally weird cable routing - somewhere where it makes tight bends. It does that very well. I've tried the Jagwire aluminum sectional housing, I tried someone else's aluminum sectional housing, I've tried a whole bunch of different shit... but ultimately I found that plain stainless steel cable with full run of Jagwire or Shimano housing is the best combination of price and performance. I found with the pricey shit, I resisted replacing it when it should have been because pricey - but with the basic stuff, if it hesistates a little in a shift, I swap out cables and housing and don't blink an eye.

Having shop lengths of housing and buying cables in bulk helps there, too.

Full run housing is one decidedly counter weight-weenie thing that I do in almost all situations. The wife's bike doesn't have it, but I've been considering it. Only problem is that's a non-reversible change.

[xcbarny]

I've used gore as well - the original stuff, when it first came out. I think the liner on the Transfil set is more durable, as I found it used to kink more easily on the Gore set.

I'm not saying its better than running full length housing, but sometimes that isn't really an option.

[RS VR6]

I've run Gore before. You have to be careful when you cut the cable. If you' don't use care when cutting it...the lining on the cable can fray.

I really like the Nokon housing. It can bend where a normal housing would kink. Only drawback is that they can creak on the front portion of the bike. At least mine do...on both bikes. 

[carbonazza]

A month or so ago, when washing the bike after a ride I noticed a crack at the back of the seat tube.


I contacted Peter that told me to bravely cut out the cracked part like this:


Which I did... If you wonder, yes it hurts doing this 
I was quite surprised to see the top and bottom parts of the seat tube not being the same piece.

I sent the piece by post, Peter then sent it to his factory.
And now I'm waiting, not sure what, but it takes a veeeery long time to get news.

While my 256 breakage was due to a stupid fall.
This time, there was no fall or crazy things involved.
Just normal XC rides. The frame was still mint

[MTB2223]

Damn, that's not so nice! Strange the seat tube isn't made out one of the same piece.

[cmh]

Wow... the part of the 041 that I deemed to be my favorite part of the frame looks to be turning out to be the biggest issue on the frame. Granted, that conclusion is based on two datapoints, but still...

You've got a bunch of post outside the frame - do you know if the post extends down to the broken area? In other words - how much post was inside the frame? I wouldn't think the leverage of a long post inserted only a short amount would cause that problem - honestly I have no idea what WOULD cause that problem. That's a strange place for a crack to happen.

Keep us posted on your results... sorry to hear it!

[carbonazza]

The seatpost was a bit more than 10cm inside( exactly at the limit mark given by ProCraft )

[DirtyForks]

Yikes! Sorry to hear.    I was considering the 041...this is giving me 2nd thoughts.

Looking at the geometry, does the 10cm insert allow it to catch the top edge of the top tube, or are you just above it? Wondering if there was additional stress on the seat tube without the extra seat post/tube overlap length. Problem is, if you drop it further, you're compromising your riding position...and you were within the tolerance.

Please keep us posted.

[cmh]

The seatpost was a bit more than 10cm inside( exactly at the limit mark given by ProCraft )

So does that line up above or below the cracked area? Looking at the photos, it's hard to tell - looks like it should be right around there.

Still doubt that has anything to do with the cracking... but just something I thought might maybe possibly on the outside chance have contributed.

[carbonazza]

I guess the reinforcement between the top and seat tube is made for that.
And not a handle to carry the bike

One other thing I noticed when cutting it.
The below part of the seatpost had some delaminated carbon fiber inside.
Not sure if it was due to a defect or me cutting it with the saw.

[Vipassana]

I must have missed this thread update.  Could it be the result of an exterior impact from a rock?

[carbonazza]

Peter replied me few weeks ago, the factory concluded on a frame defect.
A replacement frame should arrive.

Today I even noticed another delamination inside the bottom bracket shell on one side.

[RS VR6]

Lol...seems like the customers are also the product testers.

[kingchickenstrip]

Did you take any pictures of the frame after you cut it? Would love to see them.

[carbonazza]

Here are some pictures. Let me know if you'd like to see some parts in particular.
Beware, it hurts !-)






Here is the drive side, with a layer that goes out.



And here is the bottom of the seat tube.
Where you may see some carbon fibers going out too. But this is maybe due to the saw.