CS-057 Build Planning

[xBlitzkriegx]

hi all. im in the planing stages of building up a -057 frame. id like to list my pile of parts and would like to have some feedback or suggestions. thanks!
CS-057 frame: approx 1270g (all carbon components will be classic 3k weave)
Neco headset: approx 65g
Wheelset:        approx 1480g
Funn 80mm arrow head stem: 130g (100mm)
Funn 710mm flame one bar: 200g
Zee brakes: 306g x 2 - i know there are lighter brakes but im 195lbs and i use brakes as an afterthought because im dumb
alligator starlite rotors: 180mm = 120g, 160mm = 90g - i know these will reduce the zee's effectiveness slightly. at least, thats my expectation. thats the reason for the larger size.
shimano XT 1x11 drivetrain:
Sunrace MX8 11-42: 401g This cassette is cheaper and slightly lighter than any of the 3 XT m8000 cassettes
derailleur: 273g 
shifter: 126g
chain: 257g
cranks: approx 600g w/170mm arms
AB black series 32t chainring: 46g (stock is 89g for 32t) $10 price difference between the 2. no brainer imo
XTR M980 bottom bracket: 89g
front and rear thru axles, non qr: apprx 40g each
esi chunky grips: 60g
carbon seat: 130g
dmr seat clamp: 15g
SP4 seatpost: 200g
rockshox reba rl 120mm: 1664g
headset spacers: 20g at most
ardent 2.4 exo/tr: 800g
ikon 2.35: 695g

total: 9432g approx, or 20.8lbs

im guessing cutting the steerer tube and trimming seatpost will help slightly. rest of the bike is right where i want it parts wise. Then, itll be a waiting game. =]

Peter returned my email this morning. Yay! I have about a week before I can start purchasing parts.

[Carbon_Dude]

Looks like a nice build sheet.  If you want, maybe think about 720mm-740mm bars, wider can be better for some people.  The bars on my latest bike measure out at 730mm and I'm really liking the extra width along with the 80mm stem.  SRAM or Shimano 1x11 is your choice but since you are getting a new wheel set you could go SRAM and have a wider range cassette.  A SRAM 10T cog instead of the Shimano 11T will give you 10% more top end.  Just a suggestion though.

You are spec'ing out Zee brakes which are fine, although the XT brakes are so powerful that I can't see the need to go with something else, particularly since you are plus sizing the rotors up to 203mm/180mm.  Maybe you plan on doing some downhill riding but with wimpy rotors, I would not think that would be the optimum combination.  Shimano Icetech rotors are also so good (quiet, stiff and trouble free) that I can't see not using a set of those over anything else.

Good luck with your build, wether or not you stick to your build sheet instead of my suggestions, I'm sure you will enjoy having a new bike that you personally selected the components and assembled yourself.

Let us know if you have any other questions.

[Patrick C.]

I'd also suggest sticking with 160 mm rotors.  I weigh 205 pounds (maybe less after sweating it out today), and have XT brakes with 160 mm ice tech rotors front and rear.  I think I would endo or lose traction before I reach the limit of the front brake.

160 mm rotors will also fit easier- you'll definitely need an adapter for the rear, maybe for the front too depending on your fork.  Weight will be about the same, or at least not enough for you to notice a difference.

[xBlitzkriegx]

Thanks, both of you. The brakes decision is admittedly a knee jerk reaction to the craptastic tektro brakes on my marlin now. the front failed on me on a medium (to me) downhill section and a tree was gracious enough to stop me from going over a 40' drop. Both the bike and myself were fine. After going home (I still rode the trail complete lol), I did some research and found that the novela brakes have 3 little ball bearings that sit in grooved ramps which act on the piston. When it wears out, the little balls wear make grooves on the back side of part that rotates and allows them to cam over resulting in FULL LOSS of braking.

So yeah, Zee brakes are over kill. The trails here in the TC area aren't particularly full of downhill areas but I like peace of mind. The lighter discs are more to help with modulation. Also, I've read across a few forums that the XT brakes are great but have less modulation compared to the Zee brakes. It makes since considering Zees have twice the pistons.

Good point on the disc size. I'm not totally sure 160/160 would work for me. I mean, honestly it probably would but I tend to push myself as hard as I can the entire trail. It's not hard to do really, lol. Still, I very rarely coast. I like to go fast! Also, I'd like to know I have reserve braking power if I need it. I do think i'll go 180/160 instead. That'll save around 70 grams, and a few bucks.

Concerning a wider bar, I'm not sure. the 680 I'm using now seems fine. I've experimented by grabbing the ends of the bar on my current setup and I didn't notice much of a difference. The bar I spec'd comes 680 or 710. I could grab the 710 and try it out. I don't think 15mm per side is gonna bother me and if it does, I can cut it down.

[Carbon_Dude]

180/160 would allow you to only (probably) need a spacer for the front/fork caliper, the frame is designed for 160mm so no spacer there.  Again, I'm sure Zee brakes are great, I mean 4 small pistons must be stronger than 2 bigger pistons right?  Just kidding.  For the little extra cost, go with the Zee brakes if that's what you like.

I've got a 680mm riser bar on my -057, do you want it?  I'm going to order a 740 low rise bar to replace it.  After riding my Stache with the wider bar, I'm liking my seated position and the extra leverage I get with the wider bar and 80mm stem.

[xBlitzkriegx]

Hmm, I've never used a riser bar. Whats the rise? I'm still out of shape compared to some (most lol) so a more upright position would be helpful I think. Climbing might suffer if its a larger rise. Shoot me a PM about the bar!

Lol, fair enough. So long as were splitting hairs, the entire line save for saint/zee uses twin 25mm pistons and the DH calipers use 16/18mm pistons per side, with the larger piston in the back for better pad wear due to better force dispersion across the pad.

[Sitar_Ned]

I replied to your post in the "Welcome" thread explaining how I'm close to your height, just a tad shorter and the 19" 057 frame is a bit cramped for me with 710mm bars and 75mm stem, resulting in me having to have my seat pushed as far back in the rails as possible to achieve a good fit.. Wider bars may help alleviate that potential issue a bit.. but maybe also consider a set back seat post.

[xBlitzkriegx]

Hi Ned. I went back and read your post. Thanks for the welcome. Yes, its wordy, lol. I felt like I had to explain why I was here beyond the inexpensive alternative.

Your video was one of the items i used as research material. Thanks for taking the time to make it.

Thanks for the seat post suggestion. Arm reach is something I have to keep an eye on. I have a longer reach than you do, 75". Long sleeve shirts and coats are a real pita. I need to update the build sheet, as I spec'd an SP4 from CS because it has a 25mm setback. Way ahead of you on that one.

[325racer]

First, good luck with the build, second, plan for the overall build to be about 1 lb heavier than you think and be happy if it's not.  Nearly every part on build came in a little above advertised, all adding up to nearly a pound.

Second, I'm running a full rigid 057 and ride a lot of trails people are surprised to see a full rigid on.  I'm running XT 180 front, 160 rear with Hope 2 piece rotors, I wanted to blingy anodized red center to match the rest of my build.  Have never had any trouble with not enough brake force or modulation for me. 

I run a 700mm wide riser bar with 70mm stem on the 057, but recently went to an 800!!!  with 50mm stem on my TallBoy LT.  I really like the wide bars, the bar and stem transformed the bike, especially on downhill.  Not sure I would ever go that wide on the 057, but maybe out to 720.  I'd probably pick up a 750ish bar, that could be cut down to 720 if needed.

[xBlitzkriegx]

Interesting, thanks for the heads up. I figured there would be some variation, I've seen advertised weights go both ways and things certain add up quick.

I've contemplated running a solid fork, mainly for cost concerns if I'm being honest. Second, it would be great to lose an addition 2lbs from the front of the bike. I haven't ridden a solid forked bike since I was 15, lol. I suppose I could use a solid fork now to save money initially, then buy a suspension fork later when time allows for a screaming deal on a new or used fork.

I tried looking at the 15mm carbon 29er fork on CS but the measurements are too small to read. Specifically, the tire clearance and offset.

decisions, decisions lol.

[Carbon_Dude]

...Test ride a plus bike  , you may change your way of thinking.  Also, with a rigid fork is a better match when you have some extra compliance from the tire.

[xBlitzkriegx]

I think I will. Never really gave much thought to a really wide tire. Fat bikes are a thing up here, because MN. I live in the Twin City area and they're all over. Most people riding them look tired all the time lol.

Btw, Carbon_Dude, I did a comparison between the Shimano parts I spec'd and the SRAM GX 1x11. My Frankenstein setup is marginally lighter. I used actual weights on all parts between both sets when possible. I still lose out on the top end compared to the SRAM setup up. That's not that big a deal to me.

On my beater bike, I'm pretty much only on the 44t chain ring on the pea gravel trail I ride for exercise. I'm generally on the 13t, sometimes the 15t for a break, and only on the 11t when there's a downhill or I need to pass someone for whatever reason. I've been over the gear ratios more times than I care to admit, and with the 1x11 setup I'll lose the 11t and 13t top end if I use a 32t 1x11. My new lowest gear would sit between the 26t and 34t of my current setup, and I'm ok with that as the 22x34 is usually too steep anyways, and the 26t is a little too tall. The 1x11 progression is extremely close to how I currently use the gears on the trails I ride now.

Man, I talk too much, lol. I'm passionate about getting things right the first time and want to make informed decisions before spending $2k on a bike I have to build myself.

[325racer]

Interesting, I think the fat bikes there are due to winter and Surly being local.  I visited in-laws in Savage last fall, the only rental bike I could find was a fat.  I rode Murphy Hanrahan,  the river trail that's in protest over being paved and Elm Creek. 

While the fat was fun on some rock and log features, and rigid 057 would be soooo much faster and easier to accelerate out of many of the tighter corners.   I would not want more than 760 bars there, I think the rental had 780 and I hit a couple trees with them.

[xBlitzkriegx]

Small update: if all goes well, I'm going to buy a gently used x-fusion 100mm slide 29 with 15mm axle (Steerer tube uncut!). It's a little heavier but is adjustable to 120mm, seems to get great reviews from buyers, and looks extremely easy to service. I'm not sure how much it'll matter on a non-G2 Trek bike but it is a 51mm offset fork. It should be ok.