Broken Chiner handlebar with photos--DANGER!

[Viperdriver]

Broke my chiner handlebar today in half.  So lucky I didn't crash.  I can't even imagine how much worse it could have been.  It just happened to fail coming out of a dip so I wasn't really pushing on it and was coming back uphill so going relatively slowly.  This bar had 250 miles on it.

I have chiner handlebars on three of my bikes (Niner EMD9, Niner Jet9 RDO, and Chiner 062), and have over 1500 miles on them in total.  For me, never again.  I'm going with US bars only from US dealers and only bars that are new out of the box, so I can verify they are in fact real.  I'm sure you can think of plenty of reasons why I broke this bar and shouldn't have, but never again for this guy.  There are probably several chiner versions available that are high quality, but I'm not willing to conduct the quality control testing anymore with my own body!  These bars were beautiful, super light, and cheap.  But, not worth it.  Today I ordered an expensive US bar to replace it, and it seemed like money well spent.

I've got 1000 miles on a chiner frame, and i do still plan to ride it, although I wonder if I can ever really trust it now.  I'm done with chiner bars though. 

[bxcc]

I'm glad you made it out without any issues and I'm with you on this one. Rims and frames I can do, but handlebars, not so much. I'm in the process of building a new SC Tallboy 3 for my wife and she asked about the chinese handlebars. I shot down that idea pretty quick. The extra $100 to get a Easton or RaceFace is worth it when I imagine the possible penalty for error on handlebars. I was on a local group ride last fall where another rider broke their relatively new Bontrager carbon bar. Luckily she was fine too. I do have to say that my 9 year old 75 pound daughter has one on her bike though.

[stockae92]

who torque down the brake lever? I supposed a torque wrench was used.

But for chiner product, I would go for over built rather than light weight for more margin of error for QC

[carbonazza]

I wouldn't put all bars coming from China in the same bag.
Buying from a relatively unknown seller on aliexpress is where the risk is.
Buying from a renowned seller here put you probably around the same level of US/EU bars.
Mine has thousands of Km, not the lightest but sturdy, and still sounds great when you hit it with a coin.

[Carbon_Dude]

I've had Chiner bars on both my -057 and -036, they seem very strong.  However, you're not the first person to have an issue.  As a matter of fact I recently purchased a set of bars just like the one in the picture you posted off eBay for my Trek Stache.  I wanted a set of carbon bars that are 720mm wide and with the same low rise and sweep as my AL bars.  Maybe I should be very suspicious of them, I will check them out carefully when the package arrives.

[Vipassana]

This is a bummer and I'm glad you're ok!

The thing is I've seen hundreds of pictures of broken carbon components, most of them with a well known company logo on them.  Handlebars are no exception.  In your case, it certainly could have been a defect due to poor quality of a Chinese manufacturer, but its proximity to your brakelever makes me think that might have something to do with the failure root cause.  Some times people rotate the lever and poor machining causes scoring in the bar.  My SRAM shifter had a huge burr on the clamp ID that I thankfully caught before install and filed off; this would have cut a nice score all around the bar on tightening!.  Over tightening it could do it too.

That said, I am not trying to accuse you of any wrong doing or anything of the type.  Personally wouldn't be too quick to swear off white label carbon, then again, I didn't just have a near-death experience either!  Honestly, this could happen with any carbon component (rims, frame, seat post) from any manufacturer and with terrible consequences.  If you can't trust the bars, you probably shouldn't ride any other off-brand carbon component.  Maybe my tune will change if/when I break something at speed.

The important thing is that you get back on the bike.  No matter what components you choose.

[RS VR6]

The thing with no brand carbon handlebars vs something like a frame or wheels...is if the bar fails...its usually catastrophic and you're going down. If a frame or wheels fails...unless it completely collapses...you'll typically still be able to ride it out.

If you hurt yourself with a Chiner bar...there is zero liability with the seller. At least if you use a known brand...there is someone to contact if you have an issue with the bar. I know a guy that busted his Race Face SIXC bar in a crash. He contacted RF and they hooked him up with a new bar.

I have a 062 and a China carbon saddle. My bars are from Enve from an actual shop in California. China no brand carbon handlebars are not something I'm willing to roll the dice with.

[Sitar_Ned]

I have a 062 and a China carbon saddle. My bars are from Enve from an actual shop in California. China no brand carbon handlebars are not something I'm willing to roll the dice with.

My exact approach. Easton Haven bars on my chiner frame.

[stockae92]

A cracked frame or broken seatpost may not cause you a crash, but handle bar would be nasty.

I also got myself a Enve carbon flat bar. Much prefer the pace of mind with that.

[gohloum]

I've had pretty good luck with BEIOU bars off Amazon for $40.00   I cut about 2 inches off each end, but they are marked for doing this.  I've not seen BEIOU on aliexpress or other sites yet which is kind of interesting.   I have them on my vintage Caloi 26er and I've crashed with them pretty hard a few times, plus the bike fell off the rack and they survived hitting directly on the concrete.  I'm not the most graceful rider.. LOL!

Here is the link to the bars.  My review and pics are the preferred review.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0125VMOOQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1