Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: chetosmachine on July 06, 2021, 05:43:06 AM
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Interesting new addition to the Lexon catalogue, not yet seen on other brands:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002761874606.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.17.3a6012bajOJsJU
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H717848a145954a1c997d9f48aa226b0c5.jpg)
(https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/H4f9d445bd3fd432b8fbef1037619e388u.jpg)
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eva lechner appruved
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https://www.topcarbontech.com/product/tcsf046/
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/China-Carbon-T700-Carbon-Fiber-Full_1600244820762.html
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Nice looking frame as most Lexon frames are. Is it just me though or do most of their frames seem short on reach compared to similar "sized" competitiors?
The last two endurik linked are both 110 x 120 and the Lexon is 100 x 100. Difference seems to be the 2mm in stroke length from 40mm to 38mm. Interesting that a 5% increase in stroke equates to a 10% increase in travel, I'm going to assume slightly more than 100mm for the Lexon and slightly less than 110 for the others.
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It's trunnion mount, too — photos were made with an eyelet shock for some reason
Trinx team have a bunch of photos of it up on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/trinxfactoryteam/photos/a.122771719227662/334057084765790
also featuring the integrated bar and stem a la Synchros sold by many Chinese merchants
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Yeah saw it on Aliexpress as well, but isn't 2400gr for 15" a bit heavy? Trunnion is a big plus, but I'd personally still go for the 258.
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Weight:about 2400g (15inch include shock seatpost clamp thru axle chain protection cover )
it's 2100 without shock & hardware, according to Alibaba listing
this one will likely accomodate a longer dropper post too as the upper straight part of seat tube is visibly longer than that of Hongfu FM258
the 19" also fits two bottles according to their rep, Gavin
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it's 2100 without shock & hardware, according to Alibaba listing
Ah yeah missed the incl shock, see that now. Cr*p, than I probably wanted this one instead of the 258 thats on its way ::)
2 bottle holders on 19" is also very nice, but unfortunately I'm not tall enough for 19"+ frames.
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19" Riot is only as large as the medium Merida 96, for example
compare reach, FC, wheelbase for yourself: https://www.merida-bikes.com/en/bike/1984/ninety-six-rc-9000?spm=a2700.12243863.0.0.38403e5fbrCKPv#w1
it would probably be fine for me at 178cm, with some 50mm stem (I ride a 430mm reach frame with 80mm stem currently)
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19" Riot is only as large as the medium Merida 96, for example
compare reach, FC, wheelbase for yourself: https://www.merida-bikes.com/en/bike/1984/ninety-six-rc-9000?spm=a2700.12243863.0.0.38403e5fbrCKPv#w1
it would probably be fine for me at 178cm, with some 50mm stem (I ride a 430mm reach frame with 80mm stem currently)
Yep, that's what I was saying earlier. For some reason their frames always seem on the short side.
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Hard choice between this and the FM909 8)
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19" Riot is only as large as the medium Merida 96, for example
compare reach, FC, wheelbase for yourself: https://www.merida-bikes.com/en/bike/1984/ninety-six-rc-9000?spm=a2700.12243863.0.0.38403e5fbrCKPv#w1
it would probably be fine for me at 178cm, with some 50mm stem (I ride a 430mm reach frame with 80mm stem currently)
TLDR below. Summary: I'm the same height, but I think I'd go for the 17.5, though both would work.
I've been browsing this forum for a couple months, and this is the frame that looks the best to me. I'm also 178cm, but I might go for the 17.5". The LCFS911 looks good too, but I'm more in between sizes on that one, preferring not an excessive reach.
I have had two mountain bikes, a 1993 Stumpjumper hardtail since new that is my current ride, and a 2015 29er Stumpjumper Elite M5 that was stolen late last year. My '93 Stumpjumper is surprisingly feeling really good with my current setup after messing with spacers, stems, and bars (and saddle slammed forward on straight post) since a large fork length increase after a swap. It fits and rides better than it ever has (came with 130 stem back in the day, and couldn't avoid a huge bar drop). I learned about the RAD fit theory last week, and it turns out my body measurement RAD of 790mm happens to be exactly the same as the 790mm bike RAD that was my final result after trial and error fitting by feel. That it feels right kind of validates the RAD theory for me, since I arrived at the same fit on my own before even hearing about RAD.
My stolen 2015 bike was a 19" that had a 437mm reach and a 70mm stem after trying some different stems, suggesting that the 19 frame here would work well with a 60mm stem for me. Although I didn't feel too stretched out on my 2015 hardtail, the extra reach to the bars (greater than RAD fit) meant that I did have a really hard time getting the front wheel up to practice manuals/wheelies/hops and things like that. I ride XC style, but don't currently race. My liking both fits, with a reach+stem difference of 25mm(!), for most riding shows how adaptable riders can be. But since I don't feel cramped or have difficulty at all with the RAD fit, even on the steepest climbs, I think I would choose that fit for my next XC style bike for the other benefits, even though I know most XC pros go longer.
Playing around in CAD, and I can duplicate the RAD fit of my '93 bike (including the angle of the RAD diagonal) with the 17.5 frame and a 50mm +6deg stem on a 10mm spacer, with the option of going lower and longer with a different stem if I want the XC racer fit (longer stem not at all out of place on XC pros bikes after all). The 19 frame would also work, but the seat tube is quite a bit taller. I had an issue with my legs rubbing the top tube when out of the saddle pedaling on my 19" 2015 bike, as well as basically having no standover clearance, so I like the lower top tube on the 17.5. I don't care about water bottle mounts, riding without water on my mountain bikes, so one cage is fine with me. Finally, I would likely be able to run a 140mm dropper on the 17.5 vs. 120mm on the 19. I haven't had a bike with a dropper, so 120mm it likely great already, but why not a bit more?
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when comparing older and newer frames by reach only, remember that steeper seat tube reduces effective length so the same reach won't mean the same feel
and with a slacker headtube each spacer under your bars reduces effective reach more
I bought cf7-213 in the smaller size, judging mostly by reach (if 430 feels fine on my hardtail with 69 HT/74 ST, why would it feel wrong on 65 HT/77 ST frame, right?) and it's short AF :) I'd really like to have those 25mm from the next size
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when comparing older and newer frames by reach only, remember that steeper seat tube reduces effective length so the same reach won't mean the same feel
and with a slacker headtube each spacer under your bars reduces effective reach more
I bought cf7-213 in the smaller size, judging mostly by reach (if 430 feels fine on my hardtail with 69 HT/74 ST, why would it feel wrong on 65 HT/77 ST frame, right?) and it's short AF :) I'd really like to have those 25mm from the next size
Maybe you are feeling the effect of suspension on reach, or do you not try to equalize saddle to bar distance on your bikes? On a hardtail, when the suspension is compressed, the reach only gets longer. On a full suspension bike, it stays about the same on average? I should consider that aspect more, since I've never had a full suspension bike.
I'm using reach to help decide on what the standing feel would be on a frame. It's a figure that helps locate the bars relative to the bottom bracket. And not just reach, reach at a comparable stack, which you can calculate using trig/CAD/or geometryCalc website, or carefully measure with the help of a level and plumb line. Reach at different stack heights are not comparable obviously because as you go higher up the steerer, the reach gets shorter. For my '93 bike, I measured and calculated reach at a stack above the 40mm spacer stack instead of at the top of the frame's headtube just to make it comparable to more modern bikes. For the record, reach on my '93 is only 377mm above the 40mm spacer stack at a stack of 586mm with the swapped longer fork. Reach calculated at the top of the headtube, the "actual" frame reach with this fork is 399mm at a stack of 532.5mm, but that stack is so low it's not comparable to any modern mountain bike frame, so I measure stack/reach where it's comparable, right under the stem.
I ignore the seat tube angle or effective top tube length because the fore-aft adjustment of the saddle is sufficient to move it into the right position with just about any seat tube angle at my seat height. For example, the now longer fork on my '93 Stumpjumper slacked the original angles out by 2.5 degrees, resulting in an insanely slack 70.5 seat tube angle. Yet I am able to slam the seat forward on a non-setback seatpost, and have the seat in a "modern" position. It's literally in the same place in space that it would be if I had a 75 degree seat angle with a setback seatpost. I don't have to shift my butt forward onto the nose at all on even the steepest climbs. In fact, that was my criteria for determining the fore-aft seat location (very different from how I would do it on a road bike). Maybe a taller person would have to pay attention to seat tube angle, because most actual seat tube angles on the bent/kinked seat tubes are slacker than the "effective" angle, so the taller you have the saddle, the more it goes back than you expect for the "effective" angle with height. But at my seat height, it's a complete non-issue - I can make any seat angle from 70 to maybe 78 work to put the seat in the same, right place.
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How does reach change with suspension movement?
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On a hardtail, when you compress the suspension, only the front end lowers, and the bike only moves in the direction of getting steeper frame angles. The hypotenuse between reach and stack, the distance between the bottom bracket and the top of head tube is a fixed dimension, but the triangle formed by the hypotenuse, reach, and stack changes shape such that the stack gets lower, and the reach gets longer as the suspension is compressed. The sagged reach is going to be longer than spec sheet number.
You can see the exact amount reach (and stack) changes with fork compression using https://bikegeo.muha.cc/ . For example, using the default numbers in that calculator, the reach is 407.2 with a fork length of 470 (close in length to a 26" 100mm Manitou fork). If you change fork length to 455, using 25mm travel (about sag), reach increases to 412.4. At 50mm travel (enter 420 for the fork, changing nothing else) reach is 424.7mm (+17.5mm reach). At 100mm travel, reach becomes 442.2mm (+35mm reach).
On a full suspension bike, the rear is going to compress too (maybe more since more of your weight is in the back), so the bike's attitude will stay level on average, meaning the reach is relatively stable with suspension compression.
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Um, not so sure about that. Headset / headtube, seat and bottom bracket are all fixed points on a triangle whose sides do not change length, nor angles change when you compress suspension at either end of the bike. The "front triangle" of your bike is fixed and as such reach and stack cannot change. What changes is the angles outside of this fixed triangle. The only exception to this that I can think of is that old "Slingshot" frame from about 20 years ago that had the down tube replaced by a wire which allowed a small amount of flex in the other two sides of the front triangle.
What changes when suspension compresses is fork angle, seat tube angle, front centre but only marginally, bb height and the length between your bb and your cassette on a duallie.
That right angle triangle that is formed by reach, stack and the downtube remains a right angle triangle regardless of what happens to the fork or rear suspension. I assume you are thinking that because reach on an unweighted bike is measured with a vertical line up from the bb that when the frame changes angle relative to the horizontal then you still use a vertical line up from the bb. I don't believe this is the case. The vertical line up from the bb when wheels are horizontal and bike is unweighted is used as a standard to make comparisons between frames easier. Reach is a static dimension, not a variable.
Using your logic the reach would change if the bike was sitting unweighted on a slope compared to sitting unweighted on a perfectly horizontal surface. The whole point of measure reach and stack with horizontal and vertical lines relies on the bike being on a horizontal surface and it gives you a right angelled triangle between reach and stack. That right angle triangle should not change.
I really think that you are over thinking this.
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Nope, reach is defined by the distance to the vertical line through the bottom bracket. That vertical line does change relative to the frame when the frame is tilted back. Same thing for the stack. The horizontal line to the top of the steerer changes relative to the frame. The only side of the reach/stack/diagonal triangle that is fixed is the diagonal (except in the Slingshot). If you have a picture of a frame geometry diagram on a sheet of paper and put it on the wall, and tilt the picture slightly to simulate a longer or shorter fork for example, the vertical and horizontal lines on the paper are no longer vertical and horizontal, and need to be redrawn to actual vertical and horizontal, changing the shape of that right triangle. There's no debate on this.
Just on this particular frame alone, you see confirmation of that in the reach/stack specs. The Lexon's reach/stack, which is spec'd at 100/100 travel is different from the Topcarbon, which is spec'd at 120/110, and therefore slightly slackened. They are the same frame, but reach/stack on the Lexon 17.5 is 432mm/603mm, while the Topcarbon 17.5 is 430mm/609mm. Those different numbers for reach and stack are there not because the frame is different, but because the Topcarbon's reach/stack is calculated with a fork that has 10mm longer travel than the rear travel vs. equal travel. Furthermore, the main purpose of that https://bikegeo.muha.cc/ website that I linked to earlier is in fact to see how reach and stack changes with changes in fork length. That's why they have fork selections at the top, and reach/stack at the bottom where you are looking for the results of the fork change.
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Nope, reach is defined by the distance to the vertical line through the bottom bracket. That vertical line does change relative to the frame when the frame is tilted back. Same thing for the stack. The horizontal line to the top of the steerer changes relative to the frame. The only side of the reach/stack/diagonal triangle that is fixed is the diagonal (except in the Slingshot). If you have a picture of a frame geometry diagram on a sheet of paper and put it on the wall, and tilt the picture slightly to simulate a longer or shorter fork for example, the vertical and horizontal lines on the paper are no longer vertical and horizontal, and need to be redrawn to actual vertical and horizontal. There's no debate on this.
Just on this particular frame alone, you see confirmation of that in the reach/stack specs. The Lexon's reach/stack, which is spec'd at 100/100 travel is different from the Topcarbon, which is spec'd at 120/110, and therefore slightly slackened. They are the same frame, but reach/stack on the Lexon 17.5 is 432mm/603mm, while the Topcarbon 17.5 is 430mm/609mm. Those different numbers for reach and stack is there not because the frame is different, but because the Topcarbon's reach/stack is calculated with a fork that has 10mm longer travel than the rear travel vs. equal travel. Furthermore, the main purpose of that https://bikegeo.muha.cc/ website that I linked to earlier is in fact to see how reach and stack changes with changes in fork length. That's why they have fork selections at the top, and reach/stack at the bottom where you are looking for the results of the fork change.
You are now measuring reach and stack on a different bike. There is no debate on this.
By your argument, as I said in previous post, simply having the identical bike on a slope compared to horizontal ground will change the reach and the stack.
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There's reach as a bike spec, which you are talking about, and reach as you ride, which varies. Yes, a bike's instantaneous reach will be shorter on an upslope. That's obvious when you ride up a steep hill, the bars come closer to you when you are standing.
You asked me how reach changes with suspension movement, so I talked about reach as you ride, or instantaneous reach. I answered that it is different for a hardtail vs. full suspension. A hardtail will be and feel longer in reach than a same spec reach/stack full suspension bike because it will only ever compresses in the front. You disagree? This isn't my original idea, I got it from some youtube video that I can't remember at the moment. I hadn't considered it in my initial post in this thread, but then remembered that factor and brought it up.
I mentioned it the first place because that is a consideration for me coming from hardtails. I know the exact distance and angle between bottom bracket and grips that works for me on a hardtail. That exact spatial relationship between bottom bracket and stem transferred to a full suspension bike will be and feel a bit shorter when actually riding and doing things like getting the front wheel up in manuals/hops/etc. where weight will be only on the rear. The 25mm reach+stem difference between my bikes is huge in terms of getting that front wheel up. It basically felt impossible on the longer bike because it was over my RAD number, while it is really easy on the shorter bike. That's what I'm keeping in mind while I'm doing pre-calculations on fit/frame size preference/stem choice to less than 5mm. Why shouldn't I try to be that precise as someone on the border between M and L on many frames, and coming from a technical/engineering background and able to analyze it closely?
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Another serious consideration when choosing between frame sizes on a carbon frame is do your shifters clear the top tube when the bars swing towards the top tube, especially if you are using flat bars. On my (stolen) 19", 625mm stack hardtail, there was a big/deep scratch in the top tube from the previous owner. It was an aluminum frame, so little harm done, though I did consider that a crack might initiate there. A carbon frame probably would have cracked. I also smacked the top tube with the shifter myself a few times over the years. I was reminded of this when I read this review on the Specialized site:
I LOVE the Epic Evo, but seriously, DO NOT ride this bike before ensuring the handlebar controls clear the top tube. I spent $1,000+ to repair the frame after the bike fell over leaning against my car - The bar controls hit and cracked the top tube when the bars spun. A seemingly common occurrence turned into a costly repair. I currently use the ENVE M6 25mm rider bars with the 50mm ENVE aluminum stem to ensure the controls clear the top tube. The repair company, Ruckus Composites, and my LBS were fantastic handling the repair.
I'm certainly not compromising my bar position to make the shifters clear the top tube. Without being able to have the actual frame in hand, I think the size 19 frame might possibly have clearance issues for me with the 619mm stack, while the 17.5 should definitely avoid the issue.
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A hardtail will be and feel longer in reach than a same spec reach/stack full suspension bike because it will only ever compresses in the front. You disagree? This isn't my original idea, I got it from some youtube video that I can't remember at the moment.
Found it. This is what I'm talking about. This guy had to go to 40mm shorter on his hardtail compared to his full suspension to have a comparable real world riding reach, and he explains why - basically what I've written above. Give me your thoughts if you watch it.
https://youtu.be/fvTKrDhypD4
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So, i received this frame, ordered from Lexon official store on aliexpress.
Frame size 19, black/yellow color scheme.
Frame comes with rear through axle, headset, bottom bracket (24mm axle), seatpost clamp, bolts for trunnion shock and adapter axle for regular shock mount, rubber chainstay protector.
Weight - 2102 g.
I've never had a carbon frame before, so cannot compare, but it seems to be well made, paint job is accurate, inside of the frame looks good without any messy bits of carbon fibre. I'm satisfied with the quality.
Unfortunately, package was messed up during shipping and there is a crack in chainstay :(
Contacted the seller, they immediately offered to send me a replacement rear trianle, so i'll have to wait and hope it will come in one piece :)
If you guys are interested in some specific info/pictures - let me know.
Some pics attached:
Frame, both sides
Frame with compressed suspension,
Weight, size 19
Trunnion to regular shock mount adaptor
The crack :(
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I bought this Lexon RIOT frame and fitted it with the donated Polygon Xtrada 7 components
youtu.be/2gI5sf8nxA4
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Any thoughts on how a 165x45 trunion shock would go on this frame?
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Lexon Riot with Trunnion Shock Manitou Mara 165x45
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Any idea of travel with 165x45 shock installed? Ride review?
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Does anyone have experience with Lexon and better yet, updates on the Riot frame? I'm close to pulling the trigger on this frame as a replacement for my 2014 Specialized Crave Expert (HT). I'm new to buying/building my own bike, but I do my own maintenance (including servicing my fork) and have installed many upgrades. The Riot seems to be the best fit for what I'm looking for in a full suspension bike - more XC leaning than Trail. I mostly ride classic Mid-Atlantic XC trails, lots of flow with some rocks, roots with the occasional (smallish) jumps & drops, but I am looking for a bike that is a little more capable taking on chunkier stuff (dare I use the term downcountry). I race a few times a year Cat 2/3 depending on my fitness level, but at this point in my racing career I pretty much use the races as motivation for off-season training (my dreams of standing on the podium are long gone).
My plan is to re-purpose as many components from my Crave (BTW - it is no longer rideable due to a bent seat stay) to help save on cost, including:
Fork: Reba RL 100mm travel (eventually upgrade to a 120mm fork)
Drivetrain and shifter: Sram GX 11 spd
Cranks and Chainring Sram GX 32 tooth
Wheelset: Mavic Crossmax aluminum (going to need adapters for rear hub for boost spacing)
Brakes & Levers Shimano BR-505 F-180mm/R-160mm
Other: Saddle, pedals, grips, tires, wolftooth dropper lever
Components to source:
Shock: Rockshox Monarch RL
Dropper Post: PNW Ranger gen3 or Loam
Handlebar: TBD - Open to recommendation for a 720-760mm width with no more than 10 degrees rise (looking to upgrade from the 700mm wide handlebar that came with the Crave)
Stem: TBD - Again open to recommendations, but thinking about something a little shorter than the 70mm stem on the Crave.
I'm 6' tall and plan on going with the Large frame. Regarding the frame fit/sizing discussion, I found the Joy of Bike video Lee Bugusky and Lee McCormack very useful: [url]https://youtu.be/HyppZOpHocM
/url]
Again, this will be my first time building up a bike and purchasing directly from China and therefore I have a few questions:
Is my approach and thinking sound?
Have I overlooked anything/Is there something else I should be taking into consideration?
Is there a different frame I should consider? FWW my runner up is ICAN S3 (others I considered were the similar XC FS frames from: BXT, Carbonda, Seraph, Airwolf, Tideace, Trifox and Lightcarbon).
Is Lexon legitimate?
How does the Riot ride?
Is Alibaba the best place to purchase the frame from?
Apologies for the long post, this site and all that have contributed have been a great resource.
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Silly question, this frame necessarily comes with those graphics and logo?, if inevitable it's possible to easily remove them?
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Silly question, this frame necessarily comes with those graphics and logo?, if inevitable it's possible to easily remove them?
If you click on the link in the original post you will see one of the colour options is "Matte No Shock". I am pretty sure that means no stickers / logo but check with the seller to be 100% certain. Some of their other frames have a note at the bottom of the description that says "Matte No Shock" means Matte paint, no logo.
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I just pulled the trigger on Lexon Riot frame, Matte. I got them to throw in an extra hanger. First time buying, fingers crossed it all works out. I'll continue to update on how the purchase and bike build goes...
******** Update*********
I ordered from Everjoy Industry Ltd (I know, kind of sounds like a porn name), which AliExpress indicated it was Official Lexon store, but there seems to be another seller also titled Official Lexon Store. I went with Everjoy because they had a good rating (96) and I could get the frame in matte with the Rockshox Monarch RL shock for about $50 cheaper than if I purchased it separately from the lowest I could find here in the States (hoping this wasn't a mistake).
The frame and shock shipped within 2 hours of me placing the order.
Communication with Everjoy has been good, I happened to be working late last night when I mad the purchase so it was daytime in China. They replied to all of my questions quickly and included photos of what was in the package. So far very pleased with the transaction.
Attached is shot of the frame from Everjoy prior to shipping.
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Thanks for sharing your experience rongearbob
I also had an exchange with everjoy, the frame in size L/19 weights 2103 gr.
Looking forward to see your bike soon! :D
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so far it works fine
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Caseven, what size frame did you purchase?
The fit of the bottle in the front triangle is pretty tight.
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I have one L size in red on the way, shipped on august 31th (slowest delivery ever!! ) and wonder how the Manitou Mara at 165x45mm fit; @Caseven does your rear wheel run through its travel without any contact with seat tube?
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although it cannot touch it, it is not a bad idea to add a travel reducer. The manufacturer told me that it was possible to mount the Manitou Mara Shock with that travel https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdDV_AuZMKg
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many thanks for the pic! It's safe IMHO, you have enough space to handle some mud
Mine frame will be here in a couple of days, I'll check travel with rear wheel and tyre on, then order rear shock; if everything will work as expected, Deluxe 165x45 and Pike 130 in the front.
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Caseven, is a bearing press necessary for the headset on the Lexon Riot? I'm getting my components ready for the Riot build (once it arrives) and the one tool I don't have is a bearing press. Thanks.
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Caseven, is a bearing press necessary for the headset on the Lexon Riot? I'm getting my components ready for the Riot build (once it arrives) and the one tool I don't have is a bearing press. Thanks.
Bearings just "drop in" into frame, no press required
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my frame arrived few days ago...I'm very impressed with Lexon quality overall!
Large size came at 2130 grams with shock hardware (no rear axle )
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my frame arrived few days ago...I'm very impressed with Lexon quality overall!
Large size came at 2130 grams with shock hardware (no rear axle )
Let us see the final assembly please! :) :)
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Let us see the final assembly please! :) :)
For sure, but this is my winter project, so it will take some week to be ready for trails!
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you need a pair of 2mm x 10 washers to put on each side of the shock head to make contact with the bearings
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I just ordered myself this frame in yellow tonight, I got a large. I'm about 177cm, but not very flexible in my back, so a bit larger usually works better for me. It was between this and the fm909. I picked this frame really because 1800 grams for the fm909 in a size large is just scary light, plus, I do like the look of this frame quite a bit.
I have a sidluxe 165x45 trunnion shock, and I'm stoked to see that it will work without having to install a travel reducer. This will be my first "light" build, hoping to end up right around 9.5Kg (21lbs). My other bike is a 34lbs behemoth, and I can't wait to see what that kind of wieght loss will do for me. :)
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Uraberg, Congrats on the purchase and going for your "light" build...I've estimated my Lexon Riot build to come in around 24 - 25 pounds (somewhere around 11K +/- grams) for the large frame. We'll see how it turns out once I get the frame and all of the components for the build.
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Cheers.
To the people who've build one, is shock mount hardware included? (two bolts for trunnion side, and the shaft mount bolt)?
Is the 41.4mm wide bushing the one I need to mount the shaft side?
Thanks.
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My Lexon Riot arrived yesterday from Everjoy Industries, just under 6 weeks from order date, which is not too bad in the current shipping environment. Observations from my quick overview:
Packaging overall was excellent, the box was branded Lexon and it did have a cave in on one side. The frame itself was wrapped with multiple layers of bubble wrap and additional cardboard protection inside - so no damage to the frame.
Overall the frame looks great, I went with the matte black instead of the various other color options. With the matte black, there are no identifying logos or names on the frame (No Riot or Lexon or anything, I couldn't even locate a serial #).
The paint job is good, there are a couple blemishes (a light scratch on the seat tube near the shock and 3 tiny chips on the headtube), but nothing to be concerned with and I'll probably try to hide with a dab from a Sharpie.
The RS Monarch RL shock was pre-installed on the frame, if you go the that route.
The headset, thru axle, BB, chain stay and seat stay protectors were all included in a separate package (along with the extra hanger I requested). The seat post clamp and hanger were mounted on the frame.
The components for the build:
As mentioned from my earlier post, I plan on carrying over some components from Specialized Crave:
-Reba fork, going to upgrade the shaft so I can run it at 120mm vs the 100mm (trying to decide wether to upgrade the damper to the charger or not - kind of expensive and not sure it is worth it - Please post if you have any experience with the charger damper or considered it as well).
-Shimano brakes and rotors - they work fine and brakes are almost impossible to get right now or really expensive.
-Fizik saddle.
-Sram GX 11 Spd cassette, derailleur and shifter.
-Pedals - I ride XC, but I prefer flats.
-Wheelset - for now I'll run a DT Swiss M1900 rear and Mavic Crossmax on the front (long story but I'm waiting on warranty Crossmax wheelset from Mavic).
-Wolftooth dropper lever.
New components:
-Nukeproof Horizon carbon bar - deal was too good to pass up.
-50mm Ragley Stubbing stem - will see how this feels, I might go back to the 70mm stem from the Crave or try a 60mm.
-New GX cranks dub - I purchased awhile ago and they were just sitting there in the spare parts bin.
-PNW Loam dropper post 150mm.
-ODI grips - thought about trying the PNW grips, but I'm used to the ODI's
Finally, I plan on wrapping the frame with Ride Wrap.
Excited to start the build.
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Can anyone who owns one of the Lexon frames write a review??? Let us know if any issue came up during the build of afterwords?? Experience while riding ??? compare to other name brands??
Thanks!!
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My Lexon Riot Under $2000 youtu.be/RZS0W_t3aHg
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hi all!! i just purchase one on 11.11 and still waiting. it's on kazagistan at now. may be a chrismast gift!!
i take the black mate one with dnm shock at same price than a painted one without shock.
my idea is to paint it on blue colour, when i have all pieces i will share it on a photo!!!
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As mentioned from my earlier post, I plan on carrying over some components from Specialized Crave:
-Reba fork, going to upgrade the shaft so I can run it at 120mm vs the 100mm (trying to decide wether to upgrade the damper to the charger or not - kind of expensive and not sure it is worth it - Please post if you have any experience with the charger damper or considered it as well).
SRAM is so weird about this — the names have always been confusing but particularly so now, where they’re called “Charger 2” (basic but decent IFP damper, known for not being very supportive) and “Charger 2.1,” their bladder damper which offers much more support while being even more plush than the IFP for the usual reasons.
If your fork can take a bladder damper upgrade, they are 100% always better than IFPs. Usually by a lot.
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well, I'm about to start my build and found that swingarm wasn't nice and smooth through its travel, so went down to check for the problem...
I've found it in the bearings of linkage, 3 out of 4 was badly pressed-in, causing a notchy travel.
Ordered 4 sealed SKF, code if someone is interested is "698 2RS"
Pay attention to yours!
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Hmmm, I didn't think to check the swingarm movement or bearings upon receipt of the frame, I just visually looked it over. I'll remove my shock and check it out. I cannot stress enough how much I am learning doing this bike build, this is both my first build and my first full suspension bike. I started my build a couple weeks ago, installing the Ride Wrap "Covered" kit. The covered kit fits the frame very well, I didn't have to cut any of it down to fit, the installation is time consuming though.
I spent this week working on the headset install and RS Reba fork, I increased the travel from 100 to 120mm and installed the Charger 2 damper (didn't get the 2.1 damper), hopefully I'll never know the difference between the 2 versions :) Fortunately my steerer tube is a good length so I don't have to cut or replace the star nut, I just need some different sized spacers.
A headset a press is needed to insert the cups into the headset - I tried building a DIY press but it just wasn't robust enough to do the job so I purchased a press off of Amazon for $70 that was more than enough to get the job done.
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Maybe I'm unlucky with mine ;D
I usually " play" with frames before assembling and for sure I've learned to double check for thread retainer after I had lost one bolt of my Rocky Mountain Altitude (spare was a 150€ kit :-\ )
No-brand frames sometimes come with rubbish bearings, so I think a check is a good starting point; Lexon ones seem nice in quality, no axial play and smooth, but you can damage an SKF too if bad pressed-in.
By the way, next week fork, shock and derailleur will arrive, so sunday could be maiden day!
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I don't know how many Riot owner have disassembled frame to inspect it, so I'd like to share this with you; in my opinion this confirm good overall quality of the frame.
Swingarm's seatstays have 2 grooves to accomodate in perfect alignment the metal threaded block.
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I Personally completely stripped down my Lexon Frame (a Titan Race/Myst aka FM258 model) before doing my custom paintjob (sanded to the bare carbon) so i can confirm the quality of both the Frame (What lies beneath) and Bearings. Mine was matte black....and had 3 Layers (White Primer | Black Paint and Matte Clearcoat)...
My built bike is almost 2000km and counting...
Im completely sold to chinese frames.....already working on my next Gravel Project.
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another nice feature, usually found on high-end frames, is guided cables in the swingarm.
As usual, I insert a piece of pipe insulator to avoid any noise or cable rattling inside downtube
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I removed my shock and the rear triangle movement is fine, good advice to check all of the bearings and threadlock on the bolts. My frame did not come with guides for the internal routing, but it was relatively painless to route RD cable, rear brake hose and dropper cable.
Now I'm thinking about upgrading my SRAM GX 11 Spd 10x42 to either a Garbaruk (10x46 or 10x50) or E*13 9x46 11 speed cassette to get a little more range. I'm running a 32T chainring up front and mostly ride classic mid-Atlantic XC single track with punchy climbs and lots of flow. Please let me know if you have any experience with either of these cassettes, the SRAM GX has been great but it is getting old so a replacement will be needed in the not so distant future.
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About gearing, I'm not a fan of 12speed ;D so until I can get them, 11 is what I use.
I had and will be also on the Riot, a 11/46 from ZTTO (Aliexpress) @ 370grams, shift through gears is very good as on Sram products
Usually I go with a 34 oval chainring
I don't like anything over 46 cassette, but 9 as smallest cog is interesting, especially if you go with a 32 chainring
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good advice to check all of the bearings
And it also good advice to put each removed bearing on some shaft, install this shaft into cordless screwdriver or drill or whatever you have, and rotate for a few second. Bearings normally are filled with grease to not more than 30% and in production process grease applied locally, so some balls inside the bearing are not covered with grease. And as bearings in suspension pivots never get even one full turn, rotating them before assembling helps to spread the grease inside them.
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well, I'm still happy with my Riot purchase, but seem to be a bit unlucky by now...suspensions arrived on wednesday, put the RS Deluxe Ultimate onto the frame and found that Lexon Official Store sent me a wrong couple trunnion bolts!
M8 instead of M10, so now I have a spare for rocker arm linkage bolts ;D
They promptly shipped, meanwhile I've ordered a Vitus frame spare
Other than that I found my bottom bracket a bit out of tolerance; was really hard to screw-on BB cups, so I stopped and take it to a friend's shop to file it. Never happened such a thing in 20 years
By the way, I was able to "assemble" the bike and get an idea of what it will turn.
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Like your "assembled" bike, tough break on the mounting hardware. This was the primary reason why I purchased the RS Monarch shock with the frame, so it would fit correctly. Not having a full suspension rig before I just didn't want the hassle of trying to find the right shock and potentially getting it wrong. If anyone else has these same concerns or limited knowledge such as myself, the frame came with shock installed, as a result the correct mounting hardware came with the frame. My build has stalled, not because of the frame or shock, rather I'm bogged down with my RS Reba fork upgrade from 100mm to 120mm (having a lot of stiction and fork suck). I think I might have over greased the airspring, seals, etc. and the dimple is clogged. This happened a couple years ago after I did the lower leg service, just a pain to take the fork apart, clean and oil and grease (not so much this time) it again. On a brighter note, the new Mavic wheelset arrived...It only took 6 months for Mavic to fulfill the warranty submission.
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this was a silly mistake, wrong bolts, could happen!
I went with a trunnion because is the only way if you want 120mm rear travel
Sorry for yor fork, hope you'll sort it out soon
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Cheers.
To the people who've build one, is shock mount hardware included? (two bolts for trunnion side, and the shaft mount bolt)?
Is the 41.4mm wide bushing the one I need to mount the shaft side?
Thanks.
rear end of the shock need a 40 x 8 mounting hardware; I went with a Racing Bros set.
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I think I got the fork sorted out, as I had thought there was too much grease on the air piston side which was clogging the dimple. I then went to work checking all of the bearings and bolts in rear triangle and shock mounts. I found one bearing (where the shock mounts to the top tube) that was a little rough but I think it will work in the short term. I too had some issues getting the bottom bracket screwed in, also the BB that was provided seemed a little on the cheap side. I'll use it for now with my old cranks and then upgrade the BB to SRAM DUB to go with the new cranks I've got. Pretty much all that is left is brake bleed, connecting shifter to RD and connecting the dropper post. Hopefully I can wrap it up and get a ride in before Christmas.
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I've planned to use another brand BB cups, so started with them and found the problem as stated before, then tried Lexon one (that seem like Shimano basic line to me) but had the same result-
Tomorrow I'll pick my frame at the shop and will know if/how my friend had to file down threads.
Have you gone with the Charger upgrade on your Reba?
I'll stick with Motion Control now and see how it work on my trails.
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Yes, I installed the Charger 2 (did not go with the newer Charger 2.1) and I'm interested to see how it rides. I'm not sure if it was a smart investment, considering how expensive it was and putting it in an older fork. Probably would have more sense to put the money towards a slightly used SID or Fox 34. I'd like to add the DebonAir as well but there does not appear to be any in stock in the U.S. Good luck with the BB.
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En el Bike Park con mi Full Suspension youtu.be/y1IvnxoOO10 Lexon
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well, I'm still happy with my Riot purchase, but seem to be a bit unlucky by now...suspensions arrived on wednesday, put the RS Deluxe Ultimate onto the frame and found that Lexon Official Store sent me a wrong couple trunnion bolts!
M8 instead of M10, so now I have a spare for rocker arm linkage bolts ;D
They promptly shipped, meanwhile I've ordered a Vitus frame spare
Other than that I found my bottom bracket a bit out of tolerance; was really hard to screw-on BB cups, so I stopped and take it to a friend's shop to file it. Never happened such a thing in 20 years
By the way, I was able to "assemble" the bike and get an idea of what it will turn.
@freeride1 can you tell me what wheels are on the picture? Thks
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https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005001511244283.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.23f24c4dMJU9Rk
this set, from Lexon store on Aliexpress; real weight 1730 grams with HG freehub, haven't rode yet but seem to be a nice set.
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Freeride1, Curious to know what drivetrain are you going with, 1x11 or 1x12? And what chainring size and cassette?
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Testing aliexpress Lexon Riot frame on trails, fallow the link youtu.be/BaW_c8Mvd4Q :)
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Freeride1, Curious to know what drivetrain are you going with, 1x11 or 1x12? And what chainring size and cassette?
I'll go with a thrusted GX 11V drivetrain; trigger and rear derailleur in red edition, just to match with frame decals, ZTTO 11/46 cassette, XMC SL chain, Fovno cnc crancks in anodized red and 34 T oval chainring
This last one was sent to me in the wrong offset (6mm) so I'm stuck until a boost one (3mm) arrive...result is that while spinning it touch the chainstay :-[
Frame update: BB thread issue solved! Now I have a Shimano XT BB cups in black, buttery smooth finally ;D
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I've finished assembling mine, and I wanted to leave some thoughts for people who are thinking about getting this frame.
1: The need to have the BB threads chased is real. The provided BB worked fine for me, but not with my 30mm spindle, and the bsa30 BB I was going to use worked fine for the left side, but I ended up cross threading the drive side cup. I was lucky enough to get it mounted and square in the end, but it is now a permanent fixture of the frame and I will just replace the bearings only when the time comes.
2: The description for the white frame states that a chainring up to 40t can be used. There is just no way this is going to happen (unless the white frame is different somehow). A 38t for sure will not fit, a 36 might, but it would be awfully close. I think 34T is the realistic max chainring this frame will allow.
3: I am 5'10" on a good day, normally proportioned, and I find the frame fairly small (reach). I have back issues, and I like to be more stretched out. I could have easily fit a larger size. (i'm using a 70mm stem, and 0 offset seatpost)
Overall, I'm happy. I'm took a chance on a chinese derailleur and I suspect I'll quickly get something more reputable. Weight is a hair under 21lbs. (I am a hair over 20lbs overweight...)
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My build is basically done, working on the gear indexing. I've managed to take the bike for a quick spin in the court in front of my house, so far the reach on the large feels good for me (6') with low rise handlebars and 50mm stem. My opinion may change once I ride it on actual trails. I'm running a 32T chainring (non-boost) and I don't think you could go any bigger without a boost chainring. For now my plan is to keep my old wheel set, 11x42 cassette, cranks and chainring for winter riding. I'll switch over to the new wheels, cassette, cranks and chainring in the spring at the start of race season. Photo coming soon, stay tuned.
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another nice feature, usually found on high-end frames, is guided cables in the swingarm.
As usual, I insert a piece of pipe insulator to avoid any noise or cable rattling inside downtube
Nice trick! What kind of insulator cable did you use? In my 258 frame it rattles a bit and am due for some upkeep. When I take it apart, I might add a piece of insulation!
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Hi all, i just received today my lexon frame. I purchased with dnm shock but i cannot install the remote lock. Have any idea.? I cannot insert the wire directly. It seems to need an L addapter.
Thanks in advance
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Finally got the build completed and took it out for a ride yesterday...unfortunately on gravel due to a lot of recent rain. While I wasn't able to pedal on miles of singletrack I did manage hit a few short rocky descents and climbs along with some wet roots and the bike handled it all very well (I set 3 new PRs without even trying). On these features the bike felt very secure and the rear wheel really planted, I'm coming from a hardtail so this is one of the riding aspects I was looking forward to in a full suspension bike. On the gravel trails it felt exactly like how an XC bike should feel, quick and snappy.
On that point, based on current categorization the Riot is an XC bike, however when compared to my 2014 Specialized Crave with its 71.5 degree headtube angle, to me the Lexon Riot felt down right "Downcountry" with its 68 degree HTA and longer fork travel (120mm vs 100mm).
My build is a couple pounds heavier than what I was shooting for weighing in at 27 pounds, than the targeted 25 pounds. However I don't think this will be too much of hinderance for the trails I ride along with the 2-4 races per year I compete in (CAT 2 middle of the pack). I've never been overly concerned with weight, I like having a dropper post and BIG flat pedals, therefore if I wanted to shed some weight I could, change out the seat post, pedals, go with carbon rims, etc. For now I think I'm set. By the way, I ended up mounting the new Mavic rear wheel and e13 cassette, the DT Swiss rear wheel that I was planning on using during the winter needs some new bearings in the hub.
Below are all of the components:
Frame: Lexon Riot 10
Shock: Rockshox Monarch RL - Purchased with the frame
Fork: Rockshox Reba 120mm travel with Charger 2 damper - I upgraded the internals on old 100mm Reba
Wheels: Mavic Crossmax (142mm rear with spacers to conform to boost)- The wheels are a warranty replacement and Mavic wouldn't upgrade it to boost, the new front wheel hasn't been mounted yet but fits the fork without any need for spacers
Tires: F - Maxxis Ardent / R - Continental CrossKing - I like this set up, Ardent grips the corners well and the CrossKing is very efficient, good traction and rolls well.
Cassette: e*13 11 speed, 9x46 - New and doubtful I'll be using the 9t cog too much, but the 46t granny gear is nice
Crank and Chainring: Sram dub 32t (non-boost) - This pairs well with the non-boost rear wheel, drivetrain shifting is spot on. (Never used before, I had purchased it for my old bike)
Pedals: Pedaling Innovations Catalyst (I like big flat pedals, my 5/10 shoes really stick to these pedals) and from my old bike
Shifter: Sram GX 11 speed - From my old bike
Derailleur: Sram GX 11 Speed - From my old bike
Dropper Seat Post: PNW Loam 150mm travel - New
Dropper lever: Wolftooth - From my old bike
Saddle: Fizik Gobi M5 - From my old bike
Handlebars: Nukeproof Horizon (carbon) - New, 780mm seems a little wide but want to ride them for awhile before making any adjustments
Stem: Ragley 50mm - New, It seems to be the right length
Brakes & Rotors: Shimano Deore (older reservoir version) F - 180mm, R - 160mm - From my old bike
Grips: ODI waffle (old) - Switching up to PNW loam grips once they arrive
Cables: Jagwire - Also used the Jagwire foam in the downtube to keep the cables and brake hose from rattling
Wrap: Ride Wrap Covered - Help protect the frame from scratches along with some mastic tape in a couple of spots
Final thoughts, I'm pleased with Lexon Riot. I've always done my own bike maintenance, but building a bike from the ground up was quite an experience and took a lot of patience. The challenging part was using some old bike parts for the build and figuring out how to make them fit the latest standards. Also, be prepared to buy the necessary tools if you don't already own them: torque wrench, headset press, brake line cable cutter and barb driver are the tools that I purchased during the build. I'm going to need to get a bearing press sometime as well for future maintenance.
I have named my bike...The Rocket!
Many thanks to this site and those who contribute, I don't think I could have researched, purchased and built a mountain bike without Chinertown.com.
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Hit some proper XC single track trails yesterday that were snow and ice covered so I couldn't send it as hard as I would normally ride. That said, so far I am very pleased with the frame and bike build overall: ride, feel, feedback, climbing, downhills, responsiveness, the ability to hammer through rock gardens, everything that I was looking for in a modern XC bike. The only area I haven't had the opportunity to test is hard cornering, the trails were just to slippery yesterday.
A few comments on the components:
- The drivetrain with the e13 cassette is running great, I like having the 46T cog for the hill climbs.
- PMW Loam post is solid and works great.
- The upgraded Reba fork to 120mm travel works well with the frame.
- The Charger damper upgrade in the fork is really nice and much better than the crappy Rockshox motion control damper. It is expensive but I'm glad I splurged.
- Nukeproof Horizon handlebars feel great, I did scrape a tree so I'm still thinking I will cut them down from the 800mm width to at least 780, maybe even down to 760.
I do have one question, early on in this thread someone indicated that you could add a second water bottle. I don't see how this is possible inside the front triangle, the only way I can see is adding to the underside of the downtime via a strap, which would end up covered in dirt or mud...no thanks. Does anyone have any other recommendations on how to accomplish a second water bottle on the frame?
I tried posting another photo but I kept getting an error message that the photo was too big, I reduced the size several times and finally just gave up.
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Quick update - I've had the chance to get in a few more rides on singletrack trails (albeit the trails are frozen rock hard) and the Lexon Riot has performed well. Very good at descending, especially with the 120mm travel fork, I've managed to pick up several PR's. Nimble enough for corners and getting over rocks and roots while being solid on drops and jumps. It climbs well, even better after I swapped out the 32T chainring for a 30T to go with the E*13 9-46 11 speed cassette. I can see maybe even dropping to a 28T chainring to go with the cassette.
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(https://i.ibb.co/HHBJ7gh/20220119-161007.jpg)
My brazilian version of "Lexon RIOT" assembled with:
- Sid Ultimate SL 100mm
- SRAM xx1 AXS complete.(34T)
- Sram Level Ultimate
- Cockpit FSA Kforce
- Chinese seatpost (700gms) with cable and lock.
- Fabric Scoop carbon saddle.
- DNM rear shox
- Maxxis Ikon Tyres
- DT Swiss 240 + Ztr Crest Rims
- crankbrothers eggbeater 3
To lock the DNM rear suspension together with the Sid Ultimate I used the rockshox twistloc.
On the wheels, I mounted DT240 32H hubs because I have 110kg with zrtcresk mk3 rims.
(no one wants to take the weight off the cyclist, since the weight of the bike... ;D )
The bike was 10.5 kg in its size "L"
About day to day use, the rear shock did not like, it reacts in different ways in different obstacles, it is difficult to adjust a perfect rebound. About the bike, as I said before, I'm pretty heavy, but I use it and abuse it on descents and climbs, the internal cables knock and make noise, the headset at first scares a little (I used it with 70 before) but with 2 or 3 laps around the xc circuit, I got used to it and had better times than with my hardtail.
I liked the frame.
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I’ve built a BXT hardtail before with full deore 12 speed as a first try and am now ready to build something serious!
So I’ve also pulled the trigger on a Riot frame, the white edition with rockshox shock. I’ve also ordered at the Everjoy shop and got the integrated handlebar. Delivery should be in April at latest
The idea to build it with GX Eagle AXS, SID 120mm and my carbon elite wheels.
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(https://i.ibb.co/HHBJ7gh/20220119-161007.jpg)
My brazilian version of "Lexon RIOT" assembled with:
- Sid Ultimate SL 100mm
- SRAM xx1 AXS complete.(34T)
- Sram Level Ultimate
- Cockpit FSA Kforce
- Chinese seatpost (700gms) with cable and lock.
- Fabric Scoop carbon saddle.
- DNM rear shox
- Maxxis Ikon Tyres
- DT Swiss 240 + Ztr Crest Rims
- crankbrothers eggbeater 3
To lock the DNM rear suspension together with the Sid Ultimate I used the rockshox twistloc.
On the wheels, I mounted DT240 32H hubs because I have 110kg with zrtcresk mk3 rims.
(no one wants to take the weight off the cyclist, since the weight of the bike... ;D )
The bike was 10.5 kg in its size "L"
About day to day use, the rear shock did not like, it reacts in different ways in different obstacles, it is difficult to adjust a perfect rebound. About the bike, as I said before, I'm pretty heavy, but I use it and abuse it on descents and climbs, the internal cables knock and make noise, the headset at first scares a little (I used it with 70 before) but with 2 or 3 laps around the xc circuit, I got used to it and had better times than with my hardtail.
I liked the frame.
Hi friend, could you tell me how did you install the wire of the remote lock of dnm shock? I used an "adapter" piece because i cannot install between the frame and shock
Thank you in advance
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The more I ride it, the more I like it :)
The only issue I'm having is the 9-50 ZTTO cassette. The first one I got skipped on the smallest 5 cogs, the replacement still skips on the 9 tooth cog....
I was also interested in the headangle penalty for running a 100mm fork (505mm axle to crown), and lo and behold, I measured right at 67 degrees.
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@Danzer in which point do you have your rebound set? In the middel of the range, or very close to the limit?
I am also a heavy rider, even heavier than you, and i run high pressure in my shocks and high rebound and i find the rebound inconsistent. I believe it is just because we run the higher spectrum of the rider’s weight and we would benefit from custom tuned shocks, so we are not in the limit of the hydraulic range.
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The only issue I'm having is the 9-50 ZTTO cassette. The first one I got skipped on the smallest 5 cogs, the replacement still skips on the 9 tooth cog...
Nearly all people who tried using this cassette reported about problems with it. I've ordered Sroad 10-50T cassette (http://m.en.flysroad.cn/product/74.html) which seems to be much more suitable option for Sram drivetrain, but haven't tested it yet (still waiting for some small parts to start building a new bike).
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My experience as well with the ZTTO from a few years ago, I could never get it to shift right and gave up on it.
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Ztto 9-50t...no problems....only mistery o had to sort out was afterr changing it to my new fiberin carbon wheels. The cassete was never fully thightened even with the correct torque so i had To include a spacer( which was not suposedly needed as my driver is XD not XDR.
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The cassete was never fully thightened even with the correct torque so i had To include a spacer( which was not suposedly needed as my driver is XD not XDR.
Does this cassette have plastic washer inside, like Sram ones?
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not that i remember no.
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Ztto 9-50t...no problems....only mistery o had to sort out was afterr changing it to my new fiberin carbon wheels. The cassete was never fully thightened even with the correct torque so i had To include a spacer( which was not suposedly needed as my driver is XD not XDR.
I actually had mine come undone as well. I now have it loctited , hopefully that will take care of it.
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I see the riot frame is not available anymore for new orders at the Lexon store and the everjoy store. Anybody knows what’s up?
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It looks like Everjoy is no longer selling Lexon bikes period. Not sure what is up, but the Riot 10 is available through other AliExpress sellers Toplevel Bike Stop and Ryet.
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Can anyone confirm if the Lexon and Riot decals are above or below the clear? Also what is rear travel with a 165*45?
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Looks like Everjoy is selling Lexon Riot 2022. I haven't checked all of the specs but it seems to be very similar to the 2021 version, Riot 10, with the exception of allowing for a larger front chainring. It now allows for up to a 40T chainring. I think the Lexon decal on downtube might be new too, my Riot 10 frame is matte without any decals, so I can't be sure.
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Any "average size" riders riding a Large/19" Riot? I'm wondering how short/cramped the cockpit feels, with such a short reach? I'm 5' 11"/1.8m tall, and pretty much fall in the textbook L/56cm frame category on 99% of bikes out there. Looking at the geometry chart, the reach is -28mm & the front center is -34mm shorter than my current Norco Revolver. It's also -21mm shorter wheelbase than the Norco. I'm concerned that there may also be an issue with toe-overlap on the front wheel. Has anyone run into this? I'm moving to 170mm cranks on all my mtbs, so maybe that 5mm difference will avoid any toe to wheel contact? I'll be running a 120mm fork, and there's only a 6mm difference in the crown to axle length - Riot's 520 vs my RS-1's 526 - so not much will change with the Riot's geometry there.
If anyone's on a L/19". I'd appreciate your input & thoughts on the bike overall.
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I'm 6' and riding a large Riot, I find it fits me well and I do not feel cramped. My previous bike was a Specialized Crave 2014 hard tail, the Riot is "bigger" in most aspects when compared to my old bike, 30mm longer reach (but I'm using a shorter stem now and wider bars) and the wheelbase especially is much longer (50mm) due to the slacker head tube. Earlier in this thread there are a bunch of comments on bike measurements which may be helpful to you. In my opinion it seems Lexon is keeping with traditional sizing charts, whereas today many bike brands have increased the size of bikes, so what used to be a large is now considered a medium and so on. All said at 6' I'm comfortable on the size large Riot, I don't feel cramped or stretched out and I'm using 175mm cranks. Hope this helps.
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@RongGearBob what's the wheelbase on your L build? Is that with the 100 or the 120 fork?
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Hi all, anybody knows the font used by LEXON ?? I wanna try to make some decals for my bike because i purchased matte one
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@RongGearBob what's the wheelbase on your L build? Is that with the 100 or the 120 fork?
My wheelbase on the size L frame with 120mm RS Reba is ~1193mm.
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My wheelbase on the size L frame with 120mm RS Reba is ~1193mm.
Awesome, thanks! My Norco sits at 1188mm and I was concerned that the Riot would be considerably shorter, based off its relatively small reach & TT numbers. Would hate to order & build one up just for it to be a squirrelly twitchy mess.
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Hi all, anybody knows the font used by LEXON ?? I wanna try to make some decals for my bike because i purchased matte one
Thats not the way to do it......
1. Find a nice quality image online of the logo.
2. Trace it using an image vectoring software like Adobe Illustrator.
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Thats not the way to do it......
1. Find a nice quality image online of the logo.
2. Trace it using an image vectoring software like Adobe Illustrator.
Yes, i know this way but its difficult to find good quality images. I have one also with logo and my friend will try to make it.
I asked also for this, if somebody has the vector of LEXON letters and the logo... Thanks in advance ;)
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Just DM Lexon and ask them.
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Hi all, anybody knows the font used by LEXON ?? I wanna try to make some decals for my bike because i purchased matte one
It's also the exact same font/graphic used by Ghost, for their "Riot" bike. I'd guess that Lexon just took that & used it after Ghost retired their model.
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Awesome, thanks! My Norco sits at 1188mm and I was concerned that the Riot would be considerably shorter, based off its relatively small reach & TT numbers. Would hate to order & build one up just for it to be a squirrelly twitchy mess.
No problem and it has not felt twitchy at all. FWW I'm running a 50mm stem and 800mm wide bars. I plan to have the bars cut down to at least 780, maybe even down to 760. The bars keep hitting trees on the trails I ride most frequently.
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Just DM Lexon and ask them.
i asked them about purchase decals but they said that dont sell :'(
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i asked them about purchase decals but they said that dont sell :'(
Can't they send a vector file though?
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Can't they send a vector file though?
they don't reply >:(
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Yes, i know this way but its difficult to find good quality images. I have one also with logo and my friend will try to make it.
I asked also for this, if somebody has the vector of LEXON letters and the logo... Thanks in advance ;)
Any luck with getting this, I recently purchased a vinyl cutter (Cricut Air 2) and interested in adding the Lexon branding? Thanks.
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Any luck with getting this, I recently purchased a vinyl cutter (Cricut Air 2) and interested in adding the Lexon branding? Thanks.
My friend makes letters for me but no brand logo
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So I’ve just received my riot frame, all looking very good and no issues on the paint thus far.
Would you recommend taking all pivot points apart and lubricate / grease them or just build the bike from this state?
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On my Lexon Titan i removed them just because i stripped all the existing paint to paint the frame, and so had to dismantle everything. That being said, on my case all the bolts had fresh blue bolts "Glue". I suspect your should be as well, i would just confirm the torque and leave them be.
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On my Lexon Titan i removed them just because i stripped all the existing paint to paint the frame, and so had to dismantle everything. That being said, on my case all the bolts had fresh blue bolts "Glue". I suspect your should be as well, i would just confirm the torque and leave them be.
Thanks, checked the pivots and all were good, except the lower shock mount was loose, with a little play. All good after refitting and correct torque.
Some pics attached
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Hi all, after winter and covid stop >:( I've finally been able to test my Riot !
Only 2 rides at the moment, did some suspension tuning and ride really well.
I have Schwalbe Maguic Mary+Hans Dampf on it and it pedal fast...can't imagine hoiw it could be with something aroung 750/800 grams tyre.
Need to take her on some alpine trail as soon as possible ;D
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Hello guys, just three questions:
- how does it work with one bottle? can it handle a big one (750ml)?
- I'm 182 cm tall, did a L is Ok for me?
- Should I go for a 100 or 120 mm fork? (should be a SID SL Select)
Thanks
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Hello guys, just three questions:
- how does it work with one bottle? can it handle a big one (750ml)?
- I'm 182 cm tall, did a L is Ok for me?
- Should I go for a 100 or 120 mm fork? (should be a SID SL Select)
Thanks
Here's my experience so far with my Lexon Riot:
- I can fit a 24 oz (709ml) water bottle using a Specialized side entry cage and it is pretty tight at that. You may be able to fit a larger bottle with a cage mount adapter so the cage can move further down the downtube. I don't know this for sure. I'm looking to get a waist pack to carry more water and tools - so far I've just jammed an extra water bottle, multitool, snacks, etc. in the back pockets of my cycling jersey. If anyone has recommendations on their solution to carrying tools and water please speak up.
- I'm 6' (183cm) and the Large fits me well, I'm using a 50mm stem.
- I'm running a RS Reba 120mm fork and ride mostly flowy trails with some punchy hills. I like the extra travel and no issues with handling or climbing.
I've got 325 miles on the Lexon Riot and it has not disappointed, it has met all of my expectations and been fun to ride.
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Here's my experience so far with my Lexon Riot:
- I can fit a 24 oz (709ml) water bottle using a Specialized side entry cage and it is pretty tight at that. You may be able to fit a larger bottle with a cage mount adapter so the cage can move further down the downtube. I don't know this for sure. I'm looking to get a waist pack to carry more water and tools - so far I've just jammed an extra water bottle, multitool, snacks, etc. in the back pockets of my cycling jersey. If anyone has recommendations on their solution to carrying tools and water please speak up.
- I'm 6' (183cm) and the Large fits me well, I'm using a 50mm stem.
- I'm running a RS Reba 120mm fork and ride mostly flowy trails with some punchy hills. I like the extra travel and no issues with handling or climbing.
I've got 325 miles on the Lexon Riot and it has not disappointed, it has met all of my expectations and been fun to ride.
Thanks, but bad point for the bottle.....My heart balance between the Riot, the FM 936 and the Genius.
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I Have the Lexon Titan/Myst and i also had to place a Side entry water cage. I also placed an adapter to move the cage further down the downtube.
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I Have the Lexon Titan/Myst and i also had to place a Side entry water cage. I also placed an adapter to move the cage further down the downtube.
I have The same frame. Where did you buy The Bottle Cage?
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In my case it was this one.....it was going to be a temporary solution but is rather permanent :D....
https://www.decathlon.pt/p/porta-bidon-de-bicicleta-com-entrada-lateral/_/R-p-330983?mc=8640163 (https://www.decathlon.pt/p/porta-bidon-de-bicicleta-com-entrada-lateral/_/R-p-330983?mc=8640163)
You can mount it either way....to the left or to the right.
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I went with the Specialized Zee Cage II, you can get with a multitool attached to the bottom of the cage as well part of their SWAT system. I just went with bottle cage.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Specialized-Zee-Cage-II-1
Also Problem Solvers has a bottle cage adapter to move the cage further down the downtube.
https://www.jensonusa.com/Problem-Solvers-Cage-Height-Adapter-Black-45mm-Of-Adjustment?loc=usa
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For the Extensions i went with this one from topeak...
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/pt/topeak-porta-bidao-alt-position-cage-mount-drum-holder/137469534/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=10319803&country=pt&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsLuo_JLB9wIVc_x3Ch0NgAaNEAQYBSABEgIui_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/pt/topeak-porta-bidao-alt-position-cage-mount-drum-holder/137469534/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=10319803&country=pt&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsLuo_JLB9wIVc_x3Ch0NgAaNEAQYBSABEgIui_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
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Went for a ride this afternoon and took a photo of the water bottle clearance - It appears using an adapter will allow for room to carry a bigger bottle.
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Went for a ride this afternoon and took a photo of the water bottle clearance - It appears using an adapter will allow for room to carry a bigger bottle.
Thanks for the picture, and yes, seems pretty tight but feasible.
As I really like to ride without a backpack, I need space on the frame for water and tooling.
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The Riot is definitely my frame of choice but its not without its faults. A big one for me is the long seat tube. If i get one maybe cutting 20mm off, idk.
I get the vibe that the frame is fairly stout and stiff. Am l correct with that ldea? Thats a big factor for me as l don't want a flexy wet noodle.
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The Riot is definitely my frame of choice but its not without its faults. A big one for me is the long seat tube. If i get one maybe cutting 20mm off, idk.
I get the vibe that the frame is fairly stout and stiff. Am l correct with that ldea? Thats a big factor for me as l don't want a flexy wet noodle.
a
Frame seems stiff to me, not sure about cutting down the seat tube though. I'm running a 150mm dropper in my large frame, it hasn't been an issue and I don't feel like I need more clearance.
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I don’t see how you could possibly cut the vast majority of carbon seat tubes since there is almost universally a taper at the end for the seatpost clamp…
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What bottom brackets are you all using? Is it compatible with a 30mm spindle?
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This bike has BSA73 BB, standard threaded bb cups usually fit this bike whether shimano or sram
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So basically it's a standard threaded bb thats 73mm wide.. a 30mm spindle will work right?
I thought a read that people were having troubles with the threads with the bottom bracket. Is this common with the frame?
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The BB that came with bike was not the highest quality, it was cheap IMO. I ended up going with Sram Dub crankset and BB. No issues with the install.
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I just placed an order for a white frame in size L. Estimated delivery June 8th. I wonder if a Cane Creek InLine shock would fit. Its on an old fm06 and it made a world of difference in performance over the Rock Shox..
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What headset are you guys using? 44/56 integrated headset; the 56 lower is hard to find.
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A compression headset came with the frame, however I installed my old headset (with a few cheap carbon spacers I got off Amazon) since I'm using my old fork that has a starnut. This is going to change, I've just purchased the Granite Stash multi-tool that will go in the steerer tube. I looked at OneUp but the only version I that would work is the original EDC tool that requires the steerer tube to be threaded.
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A compression headset came with the frame, however I installed my old headset (with a few cheap carbon spacers I got off Amazon) since I'm using my old fork that has a starnut. This is going to change, I've just purchased the Granite Stash multi-tool that will go in the steerer tube. I looked at OneUp but the only version I that would work is the original EDC tool that requires the steerer tube to be threaded.
I m using the Granite Design Stash as well. Love it to bits!
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I m using the Granite Design Stash as well. Love it to bits!
Good to hear, I spent quite awhile trying to determine which tool would work best for my set up. I also got the Granite chain break, hoping they fit in my carbon bars OK and the frame carrier strap for tube, levers and C02. Did you get the chain break tool as well and if so any how's the fit in your handlebars?
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Did you not care for the EDC Lite steer tube tool? I have one on order.
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Good to hear, I spent quite awhile trying to determine which tool would work best for my set up. I also got the Granite chain break, hoping they fit in my carbon bars OK and the frame carrier strap for tube, levers and C02. Did you get the chain break tool as well and if so any how's the fit in your handlebars?
Whao! Thats quite a collection that you have! I have the ratchet toolkit and the bell. Chk out the bell, its fun!
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Whao! Thats quite a collection that you have! I have the ratchet toolkit and the bell. Chk out the bell, its fun!
I didn't see the bell, it looks pretty cool..."gotta have more cowbell"
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Did you not care for the EDC Lite steer tube tool? I have one on order.
I checked out all of the EDC offerings, but my steerer tube length is just a little too short for the LITE and V2 at 800-805mm per their compatibility requirements. Hopefully the Granite will work in my RS Reba, I saw PinkBike was able to use it in a SID fork so I figured it would work in the Reba as well...If not I might have to go with the original EDC tool.
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My frame arrived today and in good shape. Overall pleased with the craftsmanship. It came with two chainstay protectors which is an unexpected surprise. The biggest suprise is that the headset is a semi integrated headset. Very unusual for these types of frames but its cool. I am hoping my Cane Creek InLine fits as its far superior to this Rock Shox shock.
When things get built up ill post
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My frame arrived today and in good shape. Overall pleased with the craftsmanship. It came with two chainstay protectors which is an unexpected surprise. The biggest suprise is that the headset is a semi integrated headset. Very unusual for these types of frames but its cool. I am hoping my Cane Creek InLine fits as its far superior to this Rock Shox shock.
When things get built up ill post
Congrats on getting the frame. The frame protection - downtube and chain stay - that came with my frame was a nice add-on, not top end but good to have nonetheless. I also supplemented with 3M tape in a couple areas and Ride Wrap, which I highly recommend for more protection from normal wear and use.
Regarding the semi integrated headset, I had to purchase a headset press to set the cups in the frame, I tried the DIY version and it wouldn't set the cups evenly.
Finally, I received the Granite Stash multi-tool, chainbreak and strap, all good quality and installed relatively easily. Fortunately I haven't had to use the multi-tool or chainbreak for any repairs as of yet. The strap is on my upper downtube above the water bottle cage, inside the triangle, holding a tube, 2 Pedros tire levers, 2 CO2 cartridges and a CO2 nozzle threaded onto one of the cartridges. I've done multiple rides and everything is secure. All I'm waiting for is my CamelBak Podium Flow Hydration belt to carry an extra water bottle and my phone plus some snacks and my bike will be all set from a what to carry and where perspective. Trying to go as minimal as possible for the summer heat.
Good luck with the build!
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What size shock hardware are you guys using? 22.2 for body and shaft is what the website says, is that correct?
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Lexon Riot Updates youtu.be/vW2uwHU_d7M
(https://i.imgur.com/Vya544d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nFKwjJX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ElHSOY2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HHlvBlp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KVXQ56G.jpg)
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@Caseven, how do you like the Manitou Mara? I've got one on a TanTan FM10, still getting it dialed in.
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It works well but I would have liked this shock to be more rigid when it is locked, although in this mode and with this frame the contamination when pedaling is minimal.
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I had a bearing fail in the linkage. They're 8x19x6. The ones in there are not the greatest, they all feel quite notchy. I will just replace all of them.
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Hi All,
Which package would you recommend for somebody looking to get started with a solid FS CC mtb? For under $1200ish, I could have the frame, a rear shock, dropper post, and handlebars. Maybe not the best componentry, but would it be dependable enough to start off on some green to blue single-track at least?
Thanks!
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Hey guys l need your help. What shock mount hardware are you guys using? I have a standard, non-trunion Monarch RL. What l have isn't working.
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What are people's experiences with bottom bracket height and overall sizing of the frame? I haven't done any measurements but the bottom bracket looks super high.
My large frame feels larger then the what the numbers say.
Are you guys using 120mill forks or 100?
For those using trunion shocks where did you get the shock bolts? My frame didn't come with any.
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No issues with the BB height and size of frame, to me it rides like how an XC bike should feel. I'm 6' riding a large, with a 120mm fork, 50mm stem and 780mm handlebar. All said, it is longer (and slacker) than my old hardtail (that had a 71degree HTA), so it is not as agile on some the twistier trail sections, but I can ride it more aggressively on the downhills. I guess that's the trade off with today's bike geometry. I purchased the RS Monarch RL shock with the frame, so I can't help with the bolts.
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How did you all route your dropper post cable? I had it running through the bottom bracket area but through there, my 30 mm spindle would not pass through. Is there a different way that I'm not aware of? My plan now is to drill a hole and do a partially external routing for my dropper cable
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My dropper cable routed via the downtube and up the seat tube. It routed relatively easily and works fine. I would not drill a hole in your frame.
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I did route it that way but wont clear 30mm spindle. Ive drilled carbon frames before with great success. I was hoping not too but there is no other option..
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Curious, what bottom bracket are you using? I'm running Sram DUB and before that I had a GXP BB.
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I am running a Race Face cranks with a 30mm spindle. It doesn't clear the cable housing. The angle from the seat tube and down tube is so tight that the housing can't get tight enough to clear the spindle
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Im using a 30mm bsa bb.
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Got it, I was a little slow on the uptake. it's not the BB that is the issue, it the spindle on the cranks. The Sram Dub spindle it 29mm, I guess it is just 1mm that makes the difference. Weird, though, it has been 8 months since I did my build but I don't recall the dropper cable presenting any kind of routing issue at all. Good luck.
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Thank you friend. I feel like these frames have continuous modifications or in some cases neglections in key areas that make a build up needlessly difficult.
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eva lechner appruved
Leaning towards pulling trigger on this frame. Any other feedback? Good? Bad?
Thanks!
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I am pretty happy with mine. I have the white frame and it looks really sharp!
It rides tall to me meaning I feel more on top then in the bike. Don't let that fool, you it rides great! Climbs, descends and turns well. I am 5 11 and ordered a large because l thought l would feel cramped in a medium but due to the steeper head tube angle then what I'm used to, it feels bigger then the size suggests. So a medium with a 70 or 80mm stem would have worked fine.
The dropper post routing is stupid and in my experience won't work if you use 30mm spindle cranks. Another user on this forum got his to work with dub spindles, not sure how. Perhaps his frame is a different iteration than the one I have so therefore different. Overall quality to me is a 7.5 out of 10. It feels sold but some aspects are ghetto like not fully drilling the brake tabs, carbon fiber fraying in the head tube area and some voids in the carbon in the seat tube area. None of it seems to affect the structural nature of the frame it's just that they skipped the details. But this is what you get for $800 frame versus $3,500 frame. There isn't a lot of room in the shock linkage area for different kinds of shocks. I was planning using my Cane Creek inline but unfortunately it doesn't fit. It's physically too big, so I have to use the very average rock shox monarch for now. The ability to use different size shocks could be limited with this design.
I am very happy they used a zero stack headset versus the usual drop-in kind. Classy! The paint they used on the frame looks really pretty. It has some metallic particles and it shines and shimmers in the sun.
Overall I'm pleased and I think you will be too
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The Riot is done for now. First thing is to upgrade is the Monarch shock. Its a pogo stick pos. Super bummed my Cane Creek InLine doesn't fit. That shock is da bomb.
After that new hubs. Absolutely nothing wrong with the Profile hubs, they're just not boost. I have to use so many adapters and spacers just to make things work right that it's a big hassle. I did have to modify the frame to route the dropper cable. Wish l didn't have to do that, but... Otherwise, i am very happy with my Riot. Fast and smooth
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Happy with my Riot, I purchased the matte black with the rear shock, RS Monarch. I'm running 120mm RS Reba fork but thinking about upgrading to a SID. The bike climbs and handles well, when I get on it I want to pedal it fast as an XC bike should feel. The frame quality is good, I had no problem running any of the cables (I did use the Jagwire foam kit so I wouldn't have cable rattle) and I wrapped the frame with Ride Wrap before I started installing any components. The only issue I've had was with one of the bottle cage rivnuts, it wasn't secured to the frame well. It was an easy enough fix after watching a couple YT videos.
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The Riot is done for now. First thing is to upgrade is the Monarch shock. Its a pogo stick pos. Super bummed my Cane Creek InLine doesn't fit. That shock is da bomb.
After that new hubs. Absolutely nothing wrong with the Profile hubs, they're just not boost. I have to use so many adapters and spacers just to make things work right that it's a big hassle. I did have to modify the frame to route the dropper cable. Wish l didn't have to do that, but... Otherwise, i am very happy with my Riot. Fast and smooth
What frame modification did you do? Did you end up drilling out the down tube and seat tube?
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I did drill out a hole in the seat to and down tube for the dropper. No issues so far. I didn't cut down the seat tube yet. Thats a winter project and more studying
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One last question… appreciate all your info. The brake tabs not being fully drilled?? So did you have to chase them? Looks like from the picture they would have inserts.
Thanks again
Pete
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No, l just used shorter bolts. 15mm l think l used. Works perfectly.
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Do you guys know how to remove this silver tube from rear shock support? It's super tight the bolt just rotates with the tube.
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If it is the bolt I think it is you'll have to punch it out. Get another hex wrench and use it to punch out the stuck bolt.
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I tried that. Didn't work. Lexon is sending me a new one with silver tube removed. I will also install new bearings as the original ones are of poor quality.
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Oh ok. Bummer the link isn't working good for you. Hopefully the replacement will arrive soon
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So what head angle do all have? With my 120 mm Pike and Kenda booster tires. I have my head angle at 66°. Quite a bit off from the 68°. They have listed. It's cool. It saves me from buying an angle set
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Good idea to replace the bearings, I used the original bearings and after 9 months of riding several have seized/failed and I've got the same issue with the mounting & rocker bolt stuck in the linkage. The Lexon Official Store has been helpful and gets kudos for working with me to ship me new linkage with all new bolts for a small fee ($30).
Everyjoy the AilExpress Store I made my original Lexon frame purchase with did not respond to any of my inquiries on getting replacement, it appears they no longer sell Lexon frames so maybe that has something to do with it. Regardless after 3 attempts with Everjoy Inc. I reached out to the Official Lexon store and got an immediate response.
The tricky part will be removing the linkage from the frame, the front pivot bolt is stuck and won't back out all of the way, leaving me to either drill or cut it out (unless somebody can recommend a better way). While disappointing, this and one of the rivnuts needing to be tightened have been the only issues I've had with the Lexon Riot. I'll provide an update when I get the replacement parts.
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Wanted to provide an update on the rocker issue. I received a replacement rocker and bolts with new bearings in place from the Official Lexon Store, the total fee including shipping was $30 usd. I ended up taking the bike and the replacement parts to my LBS as I could not figure out how to remove the stuck bolts - the shock bolts that is towards the front of the bike and the silver rocker bolt. LBS got the shock bolt off no problem, the silver rocker bolt would not move, I watched as they tried hammering it through with no success. Ultimately the LBS cut the bolt to remove the shock.
Takeaways:
The bike shop recommended using anti-seize on the rocker bolt to keep it from getting stuck again.
They didn't seem to concerned with the new bearings provided and told me to use them until they need replacing (which I'll watch closely).
The Lexon store was helpful and quick to send the replacements parts at a fair price. Although one of the bolt heads was the wrong one, they are sending a replacement and I just needed to cover a small shipping fee of 10 cents. The LBS was able to use the original bolt head for the repair but I wanted a replacement should I need it for a future repair. Besides I already had paid for it.
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So I’ve changed my shock to a trunnion mount. I got some questions regarding mounting hardware so I will also share the measurements here for everyone that needs them (clickable):
(https://i.ibb.co/6ZqYtBb/A3-BCDDA7-7906-4808-8-AB0-7669165-D471-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qn2Bg59)
(https://i.ibb.co/j8yRmpK/CDF257-A5-FE4-C-4714-AE57-F4-DCF1-A64-D7-D.jpg) (https://ibb.co/p1fycmD)
(https://i.ibb.co/hXbtZHJ/7-D80-A9-F4-8207-45-AF-AACB-720-FA2570-BAF.jpg) (https://ibb.co/8zqSd2L)
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Excellent
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anybody knows where can i purchase this screw set? yesterday mine was broken :'(
i've write to ali shop where bought the frame and they will send a new one but i think that it is not a good quality screw and i wanna change them for another better
(https://i.ibb.co/qn2Bg59/A3-BCDDA7-7906-4808-8-AB0-7669165-D471-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qn2Bg59)
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Hi all,
Interested in this frameset (or the Lexon spirit, still not sure which one to pick). Just one question:
I am currently running a Lexon reverse in size L, which fits perfectly. This is a super short frame in reach and has a very tall stack. I am 175 cm tall (5'9") with super long 86cm inseam (34") but rather mid-size to short arms. That means that the distance from BB to saddle is 76cm or so.
Now, the Lexon Riot has a significantly longer reach than Lexon reverse (3cm or so) for a shorter stack, but the top tube is comparable (i.e. you sit much more in the vertical of the bottom bracket I guess).
So I was tempted to get a M size, which is what the seller also suggests (their fitting chart also suggests a M for the Reverse btw). The problem I see, apart from having a lower handlebar position, is that I need probably a seatpost of 42+ cm to get that 76cm total saddle-BB length (assuming 10cm are inside the seat tube). These are not as common as the <=40cm posts.
I wonder if maybe it is better to get a size L and pick a super short stem? Any thoughts?
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Selfishly, and 100% in my own self interests, I would say purchase a "Lexon Spirit" so we will have another data point regarding how good or bad this "updated" Spirit frame is.
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More updates....I would strongly encourage replacing all of the suspension bearings, the ones provided are terrible and don't last. I just replaced the bearings that came with my replacement rocker I received last November. Two of them are already trashed and the other 2 bearings are already showing signs of deterioration (I already had replaced the suspension bearings closest to front of the bike when I did the rocker replacement at the end of last year and they are fine). It's not like I have done a ton of riding in the winter months, maybe 15 rides total.
Also, no grease was used by Lexon to install any of the bearings.
The only ones that seem to be in good shape are the headset bearings, at this point I have replaced all others within the first 15 months of building my Lexon Riot.
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The bearings in the metal linkage attached to the rear end of the shock fell apart on me, but I cannot get them out. They seem to be welded in place without any grease. Any ideas on freeing them from this piece? Otherwise, I'll need to have them send me a new one. Also, where are people buying their replacement bearings?
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It took me a little while to figure out how to remove the bearings from the linkage/rocker. Here's how I did it:
First I used some penetrating oil to loosen them up a bit.
For the wider part of the linkage I was able to get my bearing removal tool (I have the Alt / Alt press and removal tool) behind the bearing to push them out without too much trouble.
For the narrower part of the linkage, one of the bearings inner ring was destroyed and fell out leaving the rest of the bearing stuck in place. I tapped it out with a screw driver. For the other bearing, I started with the bearing removal tool to get some movement and push the bearing out a bit. However, due to the design of the linkage, there wasn't enough room for the sleeve to sit on the linkage for the bearing to slide into. Therefore I put the linkage in a vice and used a socket up against the bearing, placed a carriage bolt with the head on the socket and the bolt part sticking the.opposite hole and hit the bolt a couple times with a hammer.
You didn't ask, but for the pivot bearing removal (the bearings that attaches the rear triangle to the frame), I found a YouTube video from Oz Cycle on how to make a DIY blind puller. I crafted the blind puller to remove one of the bearings and used the Alt / Alt tool to remove the other bearing (once I removed the first one). For the blind puller I filed two sides of a washer so I could slide it through the bearing hole (took about an hour to file it down) and slid a carriage bolt through the opposite bearing hole so that the washer was held up against the bearing inside the frame with the carriage bolt head. I placed a sleeve from the Alt tool against the outer frame with the bolt in the middle of the sleeve hole. Then placed a couple washers on the bolt against the sleeve and three nuts on the bolt, one of the nuts was against the washer and the two others to 'lock' the bolt while I turned the single bolt to pull the bearing. Again I used some penetrating oil to help break the seal before I started turning the bolt. Not surprisingly the filed washer inside the frame 'pushing' the bearing deformed a bit but it did the job.
As for the replacement bearings for the linkage I purchased FAG bearings. For the the shock and pivot bearings I used Enduro Max, they are easier to source as my local bike shops carry them.
It wasn't that difficult, just took some time to figure it out how to do it. Good luck!
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Finally arrived ... isn't it incredible beautiful?
Goodies it will be mounted with:
- Fox 34 Factory SC 120mm
- Sidluxe ultimate 165x38 (unless a Fox factory 165x38/40 crosses in front of my eyes)
- 1320g 'real weighted' Carbon wheels (rims: Go Zone, hub: DT350),
- Transmission: GX AXS.
- Brakes: XT 8120m (4-pistons)
- Handlebar: Lexon Ryet Ergo 16 (integrated stem)
- Seat (EC90/Balugoe) and seatpost (Elita One)
- Tyres: Maxxis Forekaster 2.35 (both front and rear).
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anybody knows where can i purchase this screw set? yesterday mine was broken :'(
i've write to ali shop where bought the frame and they will send a new one but i think that it is not a good quality screw and i wanna change them for another better
(https://i.ibb.co/qn2Bg59/A3-BCDDA7-7906-4808-8-AB0-7669165-D471-A.jpg) (https://ibb.co/qn2Bg59)
Any luck with the replacement bolts? I sheared a bolt in the linkage and destroyed another bearing. I'm not sure what is going on, cheap bolts that break, perhaps I don't have enough air in my shock or the rear triangle alignment is off and causing weird bearing wear, but I've got had 3 bearings in the same location go completely bad. I had just checked the linkage and bearings a month ago (maybe 6 -10 rides total) and it was fine, then suddenly it is gone and the bolt is sheared. Based on this ongoing issue I can no longer recommend the Lexon Riot.
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Tested. Rides wonderfully
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mirphak, the bike looks great, and I'm glad to hear it rides so well. How is the tyre clearance at the back? You have 2.35 and Lexon says that's the max, but I wonder if you could get a little more in there.
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So I’ve ridden my riot for 1,5 years now, 1.200kms and counting (I have another hard tail and a gravel / road bike). All still going strong and no complaints!
One thing that occurred today was that the derailleur hanger got bent slightly which made my GX Eagle AXS shift completely shit. I’ve aligned the hanger with the tool, cleaned the derailleur and chain while I was at it and everything is smooth again.
But it made me wonder: is the riot also compatible with the new SRAM T type direct mount derailleurs?
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mirphak, the bike looks great, and I'm glad to hear it rides so well. How is the tyre clearance at the back? You have 2.35 and Lexon says that's the max, but I wonder if you could get a little more in there.
You can probably squeeze a little more, but it depends on your needed clearance. Mine is actually more tight in the front with the Fox 34 SC.
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So I’ve ridden my riot for 1,5 years now, 1.200kms and counting (I have another hard tail and a gravel / road bike). All still going strong and no complaints!
One thing that occurred today was that the derailleur hanger got bent slightly which made my GX Eagle AXS shift completely shit. I’ve aligned the hanger with the tool, cleaned the derailleur and chain while I was at it and everything is smooth again.
But it made me wonder: is the riot also compatible with the new SRAM T type direct mount derailleurs?
Mine has the UDH hanger, so it should. Not sure if they included it from the very beginning or they silently upgraded the design. Can you takea pic of your hanger?
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Really the UDH? I wonder if mine has that or will take it?
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Yes, *mine* has the UDH hanger. No idea about yours.
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Hi all. I plan to purchase this frame and start assembling it in the winter. Now I’m purchasing everything I need (some tools, missing components). I immediately thought about bearings in the suspension. I saw at the beginning of this topic that the suspension had 4 bearings of type 698 (19x8x6 mm). In the latest versions of the frame there is an assumption that others are installed - 19x10x5 mm (type 6800) with rubber rings. I'm right? I would like to order bearings of the MAX series (maximum number of balls are inserted into the bearing). For example, ENDURO MAX, 6800 LLU.
What size bearings are currently included in the suspension in the latest versions of the frame?
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well built this bike is amazing :)
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What size bearings do i need, both at the main pivot and at the linkage? My apologies if its been answered already l must have missed it. Thanks
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What size bearings do i need, both at the main pivot and at the linkage? My apologies if its been answered already l must have missed it. Thanks
upper shock link
6800 (19 x 10 x 5) - 2 pcs
linkage
698 (19 x 8 x 6) - 4 pcs
main pivot
6902 (28 x 15 x 7) - 2 pcs
ENDURO MAX LLU fits fine
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You da bomb!