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29er / Re: SERAPH TANTA FM121 Mountain carbon frame
« Last post by darkening on Today at 10:28:00 AM »
I think it is 90mm rear travel with 190x45mm shock.
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My ER9 is still going strong. When it works, it's f**king great! Though I'm not ignoring the problems. Hence why I don't ride my ER9 bike in the rain & don't wash it with a hose, I rotate my bikes to minimize wear-n-tear and I don't do things like shifting both the left/right shifters at the same time.

Also I'm theorizing that some aftermarket batteries might be an issue as well. That's the one variable that differs between all the working/non-working units. This is probably why Shimano uses their own proprietary unit and SRAM insist on only using their OEM batteries. I could imagine a sh**ty battery could potentially toast the ER9/X RD electronics.

Even with all the issues and the non-existent LTwoo support, I'd probably buy another ER9 groupset when it's on sale. The performance-price-risk factor is still worth it for me.

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980? Dont Carbonda claim a 1200 weight? That is a big weight improvement.
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it's 2x11 with 50-34 and 11-32
really looking forward to the outcome of your video call
I have Fix my problem :) take voltage meter and check V of batteries 14500 should have from 2.2v?? To max 4.4 (something like that), mine have 5.2-5.5V, now long 5h ride with new batteries ( this new have 4.2v) and 0 problem, 0! :)
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Save us magene
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Speed carbon has such rims (Peter from speed carbon on the forum)
Yuanan as well (OEM for Elite, also on the forum)
Farsports for sure
Basically you want rims that are at least 31-32-33-34mm wide.
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Agreed. That's ridiculously shitty of them.
Has South park cable network vibes of like "ooo, you didn't buy your product directly from you and now you have a problem with it and it's clearly something we made and we sold it to a reseller? Right right, oh we're sorry but we're not going to provide any service nor honour guarantee on that product you see"

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So what are they implying?  Workers are selling them out of the back door of the factory?  There aren't any fakes or copies ..

Awful look for WheelTop if they or a third party marketing company are refusing warranty or encouraging people to believe that there will be no warranty on products unless bought directly from them ... despite the fact they're clearly supplying other retailers.
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With reading all these comments that's the reason I'm keeping my gravel mechanical. Atleast I always have a backup bike. But damn this is bad
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Some impressions here on Sensah Phi. Nothing on the forum here yet (and nothing much on the internet generally) so some thoughts below. I've been rebuilding my spare/trainer bike so it's been a good opportunity to try some Aliexpress parts. I had a Shimano 5600 RD and a couple of different FDs about so I thought I'd try Sensah Phi to bring it all together with a variety of other budget 10 speed parts.

As a small-handed rider, I was looking forward to repurposing Shimano's 10 speed parts without having to resort to their shifters. I've always hated the ergonomics of both the 7800/6600/5600 levers (cable out the side) and the 7900/6700/5700 so the idea of having modern ergonomic shifters that worked with older parts was appealing.

The TL;DR is that these shifters pretty much do what they say on the tin. It's a version of the Sensah shifters that works with the Shimano 1.4 actuation ratio (basically everything 8/9/10 speed except Tiagra 4700 / GRX 400)

I had two different front derailleurs on hand to try - 5800 (11-speed 105) and 3500 (9-speed Sora). First I tried the 5800 but it didn't feel quite right to begin with. Noting that the Sensah Phi shifter seems to be a very similar design to the 7900/6700/5700 FD (see below), I decided to try the 9 speed Sora FD - this had a better feeling right from the get-go. I'm not sure if the FD cable pull is the same as other Sensah levers.



Thoughts:

Rear shifting
Excellent - works nicely, easy enough to good feel to make sure you're not shifting the wrong way, action is light, no issues at all. Feels at least as good as mechanical SRAM used to.

Front shifting
Meh to reasonable. The actual shifting performance is okay, but it's just a weird design. The front shifter has 4 spots (so 3 clicks) - assuming it's meant to be like Shimano, there should be two spots for each ring. The difference with Shimano is, particularly for going from big ring back to small ring - you can either to the light press just to trim (one position), or do a normal press to go down to the inner ring. With the Sensah shifter you can only move down one position at a time, so you basically have to do two small taps to drop down to the inner ring. It works fine, but it's just weird. Is there any documentation or guide to what the positions of the FD are meant to be - is it meant to be like Shimano?

Shifter ergonomics
Great, basically the same as current Shimano mechanical. Heaps better than old Shimano levers. Adjustable brake reach is nice for me with small hands. Hoods fit nice and tight.

End result


Chinese parts on this build:
Sensah Phi shifters - as above
Senicx PR3 cranks - needed a 1mm spacer on the NDS (not supplied) when used with a Shimano BBR-60 BSA threaded BB. Seller sent a 165mm instead of the 170mm I ordered. Shifting on the chainrings seems nice though and it's always good to have cranks that are easy to put a power meter on.
YBN 10 speed chain - seems to work just fine - put it through the ultrasonic cleaner and am using Squirt drip wax on it.
Sensah 10 speed cassette, 11-28 - would like to go more but that's the max the 5600 derailleur will allow. Works just fine.
OG-Evkin bar tape - basically a copy of Lizard Skins, not quite as good as the real deal but not far off. The key test will be longevity though.
West Biking SPD-SL pedals - surprisingly good given the price ($14 USD). Haven't tried the included cleats but action with genuine Shimano cleats feels much like Shimano. Had to disassemble to grease the axle (was totally dry) and as a result movement was very slow on unboxing but now it's greased (and the grease has had a chance to move itself around) it's been fine.
Velobuild VBR-016 - bought this back in 2014 and it was my main bike from 2014-2020. Obviously it's been surpassed by many other Chinese frames since but it's still a nice bike, well constructed and easy to work with (threaded BB, easy to find headset bearings). Tyre clearance is typical of the time, 25mm at the rear is the absolute maximum. The pictured version on the site are the original finished pics of my frame.
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