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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
« Last post by rasch on Today at 04:53:43 PM »
I got some tpu as spares should I just go all tpu?  over the standard rubber?

For me yes. Not that I'm a weight weenie but it's always less weight. There are some ppl who says that they are better with a whatever lower resistance but I don't notice any difference. I guess thsts for pros. I ride for pure joy.
I have 1 rubber tube in the saddle bag though. It's always useful for an emergency either on my tires or other ppl who might need
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild VB-R-218
« Last post by Queen of Skulls on Today at 02:57:06 PM »
Shwalbe one, gp5000 or vitoria corsa depending on the bike and on the costs at each moment. but I always buy them below the 40€/tire mark. I think more than that is actually "trying to be pro when I'm not".
Then I use some TPU tube whatever is cheap

I got some tpu as spares should I just go all tpu?  over the standard rubber?
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Do they send you another frame ?
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29er / Re: Epic Evo Clone
« Last post by BeR on Today at 02:00:17 PM »
They said, that they will send me a new front triangle in June. Btw I glued this BSA cup back to frame with the epoxy(i dont have any other bike to ride atm) and it holds, but I wonder for how long  :D ;D

Let us know when It will send.
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I searched for wide rims and found more Q's than definitive answers. But I did find some good options at Light Bicycle like these: https://www.lightbicycle.com/carbon-road-gravel-cx-disc-bike/rims/700C--24-25mm.

Now I get in the internal debate that buying rims, hubs, spokes, and nipples separately at retail prices is the same or sometimes more than buying a complete wheel. I guess the long term value is buying good hubs and then using them with multiple rims over the years, changing out the bearings as needed.
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Sales & Classifieds / Re: Wheeltop eds tx groupset
« Last post by shmimel on Today at 01:01:19 PM »
What is the difference between these and the newer carbon versions? I can't find much information on the wheeltop site. Is it just a different material, and if so, what is the weight of the groupset?
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Ehehe thanks.

I'll wait then to see if someone can give all I asked (and it was quite a bit ahha)
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Sales & Classifieds / Ryet Carbon Saddle $20usd
« Last post by japjoe7 on Today at 11:58:03 AM »
Bought to try out, rode maybe 100 meters and took it off, hurt my butt too much. Basically brand new.

AliExpress(US) product number: 3256805023659024

Buyer will need to pay shipping and PayPal fees.

Price is FIRM!

Reliable seller, see my eBay feedback @japjoe7

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They told me they have all sizes in stock just yesterday.

I also added this bike to geometry insights!
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I just finished building my second slr from Airwolf (one for myself and one for a friend). Some experiences to share:
Ordering the frame went quite smoothly, as well communications with Airwolf during the whole process: easy to get in touch with them and they're willing to help.
Their statement that this is the original is obviously not true. Some small issues, especially with the small parts that come with the frame, indicate this is a copy. A good one though, as far as I can judge without testing it to and over its limits. Fair paint job, though it seems a bit easy to damage. We'll see.
Please note that though the website states the frame is also suitable for mechanical shifting, it is not. Just like the original gen 7 Madone, it is only suitable for Di2 (or any other electronic shifting). The internal routing of a rear shifting cable has to go through too many sharp bends to let it shift smoothly. I spent a lot of time and trying several things to get it shifting without any issues, but in the end decided to strip the mechanical groupset and replace it by Di2. Learning the hard way... The second build-up was an easy job after that.
Routing the brakehoses through the handlebar is really a pain. It took me quite some time and the help of an extra hand to get them through. I guess that'd be the same with an original; it's caused by the design.
The parts that come with the seatpost are a bit sloppy. The wedge used to fixate it in the frame is way to smooth and therefore too slippery. Using carbon paste is explicitly discouraged. Ordering an original wedge (which has a roughed surface) solved it easily. The sadlle clamp was skewed and too wide (and heavy), and again using an original solved it.
The headset bearings seem to fit well, but there's still some minor play in the headsets of both bikes after putting the bike together. In the second build I replaced the splitring on top of the upper bearings with an original one, but that didn't resolve the issue. My conclusion is it has to do with the first spacer. Adding an extra C ring on top as suggested above might solve it, not yet tried.
The holes for mounting the front caliper were in the right place (both builds), but quite rough on the inside. The threading of the holes in the forks had to be cleaned out/threaded, otherwise the bolts needed far too much force to get them in.
The mount for the rear caliper on one of the frames is not exactly even, so when I tighten the bolts the caliper will not stand exactly upright. This makes it almost impossible to adjust the caliper enough to let the disc run freely. Probably some paint issue. Solved by putting some thick nail polish on the frame on one edge of the bolt hole.

Both bikes have been ridden for a few hundred km and it feels fast and sturdy. The handlebar is pretty flexible, which I didn't expect from a carbon one. But that may be me not being used to an aero bar.
All in all I am quite positive about the Airwolf frame. If you go for this frame I'd advice to buy some original parts with it at the trek webshop right away: seatpost wedge and saddle clamp (together about 30€). But if you're thinking about building a very nice bike yourself, I'd certainly consider this frame.
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