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I also tend more to aluminum. Any brands or frame models to recommend? They don’t seem popular on alibaba
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Yeah agree, the main reason I build up my own bike is because I get to design my own bike and not cycle around with some giant brand billboard ruining the aesthetics.
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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« Last post by jonathanf2 on May 17, 2024, 11:33:01 PM »
I have to say that I strongly discourage the use of this disc rotor. It completely neglects mechanical simulation and the bracket itself is prone to fracture. Furthermore, the pattern design is a mess, with hollow patterns distributed unevenly on several concentric circles. As a result, the friction rate of the entire disc rotor in the radial direction cannot achieve consistency, leading to the formation of grooves on your brake pads... It's a design that leaves me speechless.

The issues mentioned above are not exaggerated claims but rather highly probable events that have occurred multiple times on Chinese forums. I don't want anyone else to become a victim of this disc rotor.

I'll just flip the pads around to even them out. I rotate my bikes every other ride, so I'm not too worried!
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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« Last post by FabioZang on May 17, 2024, 10:59:41 PM »
I had a problem getting the ER9 LTwoo calipers+140mm adapter plate to line-up properly using 140mm rotors on the rear. I tried it on 2 different framesets and both of them would not line-up properly. The strange part is that I had no issues running 160mm rotors with the Ltwoo calipers+adapter plate. I ended up switching over to ZRace XG calipers which required no adapter plate. I literally just unscrewed the Ltwoo calipers and screwed in the Zrace calipers, plug-n-play style. They work well enough with no issues on long descents.
I have to say that I strongly discourage the use of this disc rotor. It completely neglects mechanical simulation and the bracket itself is prone to fracture. Furthermore, the pattern design is a mess, with hollow patterns distributed unevenly on several concentric circles. As a result, the friction rate of the entire disc rotor in the radial direction cannot achieve consistency, leading to the formation of grooves on your brake pads... It's a design that leaves me speechless.

The issues mentioned above are not exaggerated claims but rather highly probable events that have occurred multiple times on Chinese forums. I don't want anyone else to become a victim of this disc rotor.
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29er / Re: SERAPH TANTA FM121 Mountain carbon frame
« Last post by C_frame on May 17, 2024, 08:40:02 PM »
Can you post frame geometry and more details?  Is the chainline 52mm or 55mm?  The website doesnt work very well on my phone I cant see the details but it says UDH rear derailleur hanger?

You can consult them and they will give you a detailed reply.
vivian@tantancycling.com
sales01@tantancycling.com
WhatsApp:+86 13690938214

Attached is the geometric diagram for your reference. Support UDH.
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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« Last post by jonathanf2 on May 17, 2024, 07:21:57 PM »
I had a problem getting the ER9 LTwoo calipers+140mm adapter plate to line-up properly using 140mm rotors on the rear. I tried it on 2 different framesets and both of them would not line-up properly. The strange part is that I had no issues running 160mm rotors with the Ltwoo calipers+adapter plate. I ended up switching over to ZRace XG calipers which required no adapter plate. I literally just unscrewed the Ltwoo calipers and screwed in the Zrace calipers, plug-n-play style. They work well enough with no issues on long descents.

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I know this is an old topic in this thread but personally I think a cool take on bike decals is to modify an existing manufacturer's decal into something funny. For example, "cannondale" can become "nondale" if you cut off the first 3 letters from the vinyl. I've taken a "mongoose" decal set and labeled my bike "goose" (complete with a goose head sticker on my headtube  ;D). I've seek "TREK" turned into "REKT". I've seen "Specialized" turned into "Special" as well as "Special ed" (a risky choice for sure). You could take "DOGMA" stickers and turn them into "DOG". The possibilities are endless, and that's just with standard factory stickers, not even getting into custom stickers.

Anyways. I think it's a fun idea, a way to put some graphic design on the bike that makes it look like a "real" bike while poking fun at the "unbranded" nature of these bikes. Just a thought for anyone here who wants some kind of decals but don't want to appear cringe.

Yeah but nah...prefer a nice color and design over any brand or spoffy goof brand
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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LTWOO eGR
« Last post by trcycling on May 17, 2024, 05:10:21 PM »
What I want to say is that Ltwoo does not adhere to any known standards, whether it's flat mount or post mount. Ltwoo has designed its own specification and provides a bracket with the kit to install it on most flat mount frames. Therefore, you will find that the included screws are M5 size, not M6. Additionally, this Ltwoo-specific specification was not initially designed to accommodate post mount frames, meaning it cannot be installed on any post mount frame.

As for the second question, it is actually easily solvable. Any Shimano hydraulic disc brake caliper compatible with mineral oil systems can be used with Ltwoo's control lever, including but not limited to models like MT200, M6100, R7170, GRX400, and so on.

You just need to ensure that the syringe, olive head, and hose are compatible. I recommend using BH90 components across the board because BH90 hoses can be directly installed on all BH59 compatible components. As long as you ensure proper hose installation, you don't have to worry about any compatibility issues.

I have paired my GR9 control lever with the UR300 flat mount caliper using BH90 hose, syringe, and olive head, and the braking performance and feel are excellent. I have been using it smoothly for nearly 5,000km without any issues of brake fluid leakage or loss of braking power. So, feel free to boldly pair them together.

Thank you so much. I came to that conclusion about the L-TWOO mount being oddball and none of the plates compatible with post mount. A shame the seller specifically told me that it was post mount only. I'm hoping that was a language issue not bad info. (I will be telling them)

Also great info on confirming compatibility. I found a pair of post-mount RS785 calipers that will mount without an adapter nearby for cheap so that should work. The BH90 recommendation is also quite helpful. The Shimano spec sheets seem to indicate both BH59 in some configs and BH90 in others and who knows what's best with the LTWOO levers.  :)  So BH90 it is. I've heard the responsiveness is generally a bit better with 90s regardless of the design spec in Shimanoland anyway. Just have to wait for hose since none of my local shops have it in stock. (Who'd have thought the calipers would be easier than the hose?)

Thank you to the others on this thread for also and convincingly confirming the applicability of Shimano calipers.  I'll be back, hopefully with a success story and tips if all goes well.
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29er / Re: FM1002 / FM1166 - 150mm frame
« Last post by bossman302 on May 17, 2024, 03:48:36 PM »
Which were the 4 bearings that were most beat up? I have some guesses…

Were the trunnion bearings among them? That seems to have been common.

My plan is to use the Carbonda provided kit for the F6902 bearings between the rocker and seat stays (if I understand which goes where correctly), and Enduro Max for everything else. The hardware in the kit will be backups in case the main pivot axle or any bolts get stripped/corroded. They’re awfully soft, like the Carbonda provided UDH hangers which I’ve all replaced with Wheels Manufacturing.

Hopefully this and a spring tune (new Shimano 12 speed got one ride last fall and was never fully dialed) will get rid of my various creaks and clunks. I mostly rode my FM1003 last year and wasn’t able to ride nearly enough due to very poor weather in New England…but am eager to get the 1002 back in rotation.

Yes they were. I had already replaced them once with Enduro bearings because the original bearings had pretty much seized. Now on my third set. The others were a main pivot and a rear triangle bearing. Not sure which bearing was causing my god awful creak but its nice having a quiet bike again lol Will see how long that last
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