Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: Donramon94 on February 24, 2024, 03:26:43 AM
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Hi All,
I’ve just come across what looks to be a new Ican gravel frame.
https://icancycling.com/collections/gravel-bike-frame/products/gravel-bike-frame-graro
The Geometry (checked 54cm) appears to be quite race inspired.
Tyre clearance noted as 700x45c
I’ve been looking for an frame for a few months to do mainly road + light gravel.
Just wondering if anyone has either ordered one or come across this frame and what your opinion with Ican is?
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Looks ok, but couple of immediate flags. That's a proprietary seatpost with a profile that probably won't allow them to retrofit a 27.2mm insert, and it appears to only be available with a post which looks like it has 25-30mm of setback, which is going to be way too much for most people's fits these days. Those look like 40mm Ramblers in the photos, and it's already really close to the FD .. will a 45mm really fit on the rear in 2x on reasonably wide rims? I have my doubts, and I'd want more than 45mm anyway.
Re: Ican, I've had no dealings with them, but people's experience with the quality of their product and customer service has been very variable on these forums. They're increasing prices significantly now too. But they *should* be better than VeloBuild or TanTan.
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Would you prefer the X-Gravel 2 which features also all internal cable routing but has a standard seatpost? What other alternatives can be considered as race-inspired gravel?
Thanks in advance!
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Would you prefer the X-Gravel 2 which features also all internal cable routing but has a standard seatpost? What other alternatives can be considered as race-inspired gravel?
Thanks in advance!
Have you looked at the Airwolf YFR068?
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Yes had a look at the Airwolf as well. However, I would prefer to have BSA bottom bracket. Do you have any experience with the Airwolf Frame? Also the Airwolf has a special head tube design I guess.
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Yes had a look at the Airwolf as well. However, I would prefer to have BSA bottom bracket. Do you have any experience with the Airwolf Frame? Also the Airwolf has a special head tube design I guess.
No experience personally, but its half the price of the iCan. I'm almost fully decided to purchase one end of March.
The headtube is annoying but workable.
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Anyone pulled the trigger already? Apart from the price the frame seems really nice. Yes, the seatpost might be a deal breaker. But if anyone has had the chance to measure it's setback?
The BSA bb is rather a downside to me as bonded inlays have the potential to come loose. And then you are in more trouble than with a poorly fitted pressfit bb.
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Those look like 40mm Ramblers in the photos, and it's already really close to the FD .. will a 45mm really fit on the rear in 2x on reasonably wide rims? I have my doubts,
Are you saying all that from this photo in question?
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0871/7140/files/Graro_frame-1.jpg?v=1710828728)
The BSA bb is rather a downside to me as bonded inlays have the potential to come loose. And then you are in more trouble than with a poorly fitted pressfit bb.
Have heard BB shell bore not perfectly round but haven't heard threaded insert coming loose. For me manufacturers going back to threaded BBs (BSA, T47) is a very welcome news.
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I'm considering this frame a lot, I really like the look.
ICAN have an assembly video on their Youtube channel - I can't get the link to work for some reason. At 4:29 you can clearly see that the installed tire is a 45mm Rambler. The ICAN G25 wheels are 25 mm internal, so according to a bit of googling the Rambler should measure 46-47mm.
I have also been writing with Perry from ICAN, according to them the max chainring size in 2x is 46/33. But it looks like a GRX 48/31 in the video, and it doesn't seem to be close to the chainstays.
My main issue right now is that their handlebar doesn't come narrower than 400.
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Have heard BB shell bore not perfectly round but haven't heard threaded insert coming loose. For me manufacturers going back to threaded BBs (BSA, T47) is a very welcome news.
Staying with anecdotal observations. I never had issues with pressfit and if so I would have either bought a bb with a threaded inner shell - or simply glued in the shells with Loctite 683*.
From an engineering perspective the advantages of pressfit overweight the downsides. The biggest downside of pressfit is it's reputation because people are unaware of the proper installation process. Maybe I have to correct myself by saying the biggest downside of pf is therefore the higher chance of improper installation as opposed to threaded bbs.
This is also covered by "peak torque". I just couldn't find the video in which he said that. But while searching for the vid I came across another video which explains this topic: https://youtu.be/33IWHSGl1nU?si=an7GdPbuU_WQ3gx- (https://youtu.be/33IWHSGl1nU?si=an7GdPbuU_WQ3gx-)
Btw. I asked them a few questions:
is it possible to provide an own logo for the frame?
---Sorry, no
do you also offer the Graro fork without bolts?
---Sorry, no
how big is the setback/offset of the seatpost?
---15mm
do you offer a seatpost with less seatback?
---Sorry, no
is it possible to order the frame in pearl white and fork in chameleon?
---Yes.
* "wtf?! You would end up having worn bearings and therefore a frame to be dumped." Actually no. I just use a good quality bb with replaceable bearings.
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My main issue right now is that their handlebar doesn't come narrower than 400.
Do you need a stock handlebar?
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Staying with anecdotal observations. I never had issues with pressfit and if so I would have either bought a bb with a threaded inner shell - or simply glued in the shells with Loctite 683*.
* "wtf?! You would end up having worn bearings and therefore a frame to be dumped." Actually no. I just use a good quality bb with replaceable bearings.
Hmm. My experience is from BB30 but I am not alone. I have CAAD 10 and SSE2 both from 2014-15 timeframe. The CAAD came with squeaking bb when I bought it last year. Punched out the bearings and installed new (Wheels Manufacturing ABEC-5) and after a couple of months they started squeaking. I haven't changed it to thread together yet so I clean and lubricate every time squeaking returns. The SSE has Token thread together BB on it and it works fine. Its still technically press fit but I like the idea of two cups attaching to themselves than just latching onto frame.
The problem with BB30 and BB30a bb shells is there is no traditional bottom bracket as such - its just bearings pressed in and a c-ring prevents them from going all the way in. Those bearings, c-rings, and two cups/reducers to space out crankarms form a bottom bracket. If Loctite is used it will be around the bearings directly and if it bonds the bearings to frame, its frame dump the next time bearings need changing. Loctite is a big no there. Same thing with Trek's BB90.
When you say I use good quality BB with replaceable bearings, are you talking about BB386/PF30?
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Hmm. My experience is from BB30 but I am not alone. I have CAAD 10 and SSE2 both from 2014-15 timeframe. The CAAD came with squeaking bb when I bought it last year. Punched out the bearings and installed new (Wheels Manufacturing ABEC-5) and after a couple of months they started squeaking. I haven't changed it to thread together yet so I clean and lubricate every time squeaking returns. The SSE has Token thread together BB on it and it works fine. Its still technically press fit but I like the idea of two cups attaching to themselves than just latching onto frame.
The problem with BB30 and BB30a bb shells is there is no traditional bottom bracket as such - its just bearings pressed in and a c-ring prevents them from going all the way in. Those bearings, c-rings, and two cups/reducers to space out crankarms form a bottom bracket. If Loctite is used it will be around the bearings directly and if it bonds the bearings to frame, its frame dump the next time bearings need changing. Loctite is a big no there. Same thing with Trek's BB90.
When you say I use good quality BB with replaceable bearings, are you talking about BB386/PF30?
You're right. I was thinking about pressfit bbs with shells. I would not buy a frame with BB30. SRAM went away from this standard pretty quickly it seems.
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Do you need a stock handlebar?
No, I don't, and I have been looking at other options. That said, I'm a bit confused about compatibility between integrated headsets.
I'm also considering a traditional handlebar and routing the cables under the stem into the headset.
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No, I don't, and I have been looking at other options. That said, I'm a bit confused about compatibility between integrated headsets.
I'm also considering a traditional handlebar and routing the cables under the stem into the headset.
Judging on the pictures I would say the headset is fairly standard. Round and for 52mm bearings. Most generic handlebars will include the necessary spacers.
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Here is a drawing of the seatpost. It really seems to be just -15mm.
Edit: But wait ... now that I see the image a second time, I wonder where the blue reference line is.
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Here is a drawing of the seatpost. It really seems to be just -15mm.
Edit: But wait ... now that I see the image a second time, I wonder where the blue reference line is.
Maybe this drawing explains why this seatpost appears to have such massive setback. Setback is measured on the horizontal of course ... if their 'engineer' went for 15mm of setback relative to a line up through the bb and seat-tube, then ... ???
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Given a STA of 73, that results in a horizontal setback of 15.68. So not a big difference, assuming I got the trig right.
Eyeballing the drawing, we're losing another 10mm relative to the center of the seat tube though.
I noticed that the Nextie G2 has the exact same geometry: https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=648f566fec82fc001a96df32,65c2a0c6a244e9001aeae09c,
except for 10mm longer chainstays.
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Given a STA of 73, that results in a horizontal setback of 15.68. So not a big difference, assuming I got the trig right.
Eyeballing the drawing, we're losing another 10mm relative to the center of the seat tube though.
I noticed that the Nextie G2 has the exact same geometry: https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=648f566fec82fc001a96df32,65c2a0c6a244e9001aeae09c,
except for 10mm longer chainstays.
Yeah, the Nextie G2 is the same as the BXT 135 in which I was also interested - before I read about experiences with them. The frame has also 2mm wider tire clearance which goes for me into the wrong direction as I want max 40mm plus optional 30mm tires. But yes, given the quality of the G2 is good it should be a great alternative.
Regarding your maths. That's true, but I still don't know what the blue line is referring to. It seems so randomly placed. But since it is far from the center of the seat post the real setback could be indeed ~25mm. :-\ No one caring about geo would buy this frame. Too bad since I really would have liked it. :(
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Well, I guess it is the line that runs through the centre of the BB and parallel to the back of the seattube. Since other measurements like seat tube angle and top tube length are also taken off this line it seems to be fair to measure setback with this line.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0111/7470/7264/files/Graro_2048x2048.jpg?v=1706769017)
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Could be, but I'm not sure about this logic. Then a 0mm setback post would be around +10mm in direction of the head tube. And what about seat posts you can buy separately? They don't have a frame as reference, but still have a defined setback.
Edit: Regarding your theory the setback will be dependent from seat height for bent seat tubes.
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(https://cdn.rosebikes.de/cms/cms.65ba04cd357a96.36938494.png?im=Resize=(800))
"Seat Post
ROSE, 8 mm offset 400mm" :o
Now ICANs specs seem to be a lot more realistic ...
You may wonder why I am still sneaking around this frame. Well I really like it and I guess the quality is quite good. Plus with this frame I won't be scared of toe overlap. ;)
Currently I am undecided whether to take this frame an hope my saddle can be moved forward enough - or the YFR068 in L or XL. But the QA issues scare me off and that I seem to be between the two sizes.
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I pulled the trigger, and bought a Chameleon one in size 56. Really excited about it. Going to build it up with 11 sp mechanical Ultegra, and hoping to fit 50/34 chainrings on there. It's going to be my do-it-all bike with a road and a gravel wheelset.
Unfortunately, it won't show up for another 2 months :( (EU preorder for June 30).
A few things:
1) The reason it has similar geo to the BXT and Nextie, is that all 3 are very heavily "inspired" by the Scott Addict Gravel. That's also why I'm hoping 50/34 will fit, since that fits on the Scott.
2) When it comes to the setback, what matters is that we can achieve our preferred saddle position relative to the BB. This in turn can be determined from just 2 factors: The seat tube angle and the setback relative to the line through the bottom bracket. The reason the setback looks big is that the seat tube is shifted forward relative to the BB as seen by the blue line.
i) My current bike has a STA of 73.5 instead of 73 on the Graro. That results in shifting the saddle back roughly 5mm at my saddle height, relative to my current bike.
ii) My current bike has a setback of maybe 5mm, (round seatpost centered on the BB). This means another net 15-5 mm = 10mm setback.
iii) However, the clamp that holds the saddle rails is also much smaller on the Graro, which gives a bit of leeway the other way (roughly 7mm by my estimation).
I've concluded that I can easily achieve my current saddle position, even without slamming the saddle all the way forward.
Will definitely post a lot of measurements related to tire clearance, chainring clearance etc when I receive the frame!
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2) When it comes to the setback, what matters is that we can achieve our preferred saddle position relative to the BB. This in turn can be determined from just 2 factors: The seat tube angle and the setback relative to the line through the bottom bracket. The reason the setback looks big is that the seat tube is shifted forward relative to the BB as seen by the blue line.
i) My current bike has a STA of 73.5 instead of 73 on the Graro. That results in shifting the saddle back roughly 5mm at my saddle height, relative to my current bike.
ii) My current bike has a setback of maybe 5mm, (round seatpost centered on the BB). This means another net 15-5 mm = 10mm setback.
iii) However, the clamp that holds the saddle rails is also much smaller on the Graro, which gives a bit of leeway the other way (roughly 7mm by my estimation).
I've concluded that I can easily achieve my current saddle position, even without slamming the saddle all the way forward.
Yes, that is indeed the way it should be done. With a detailed geometry compare site you can see if the setback will work for you.
A tip: not all saddle rails are equally long, so if you can't find your correct position with the saddle you have, you can always see if there are saddles with longer rails. With my Hygge (only available with setback seatpost) I can only use one particular saddle because the rails are longer in the back. Nearly all the carbon saddles have too short rails in the back.
I should have done more comparing between frames and bought an other frame with less setback ???
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Yes, that is indeed the way it should be done. With a detailed geometry compare site you can see if the setback will work for you.
A tip: not all saddle rails are equally long, so if you can't find your correct position with the saddle you have, you can always see if there are saddles with longer rails. With my Hygge (only available with setback seatpost) I can only use one particular saddle because the rails are longer in the back. Nearly all the carbon saddles have too short rails in the back.
I should have done more comparing between frames and bought an other frame with less setback ???
Thanks! Curious what saddle you are using, as it is always nice to have a bit more adjustability. It's hard to compare saddle rails from pictures, especially since we're after the length in the back as you said and not the total length of the rails.
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Thanks! Curious what saddle you are using, as it is always nice to have a bit more adjustability. It's hard to compare saddle rails from pictures, especially since we're after the length in the back as you said and not the total length of the rails.
I have made a comparison in Autocad of a lot of the saddles. Of all the saddles you can find a side view and you know the length, so I just pasted a picture in autocad, scaled to get the right length. I lined up the back of all the saddles and so I could see how the rails compared to each other.
I use this saddle on all my bikes (road, gravel and MTB). They often are for sale at about 10 EUR: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005286260332.html
They have a version with carbon rails and it is very cheap. I have bought 2 but have yet to install them: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006400661842.html
Oh, and you can easily remove the branding on the plastic with some acetone
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I pulled the trigger, and bought a Chameleon one in size 56. Really excited about it. Going to build it up with 11 sp mechanical Ultegra, and hoping to fit 50/34 chainrings on there. It's going to be my do-it-all bike with a road and a gravel wheelset.
Unfortunately, it won't show up for another 2 months :( (EU preorder for June 30).
A few things:
1) The reason it has similar geo to the BXT and Nextie, is that all 3 are very heavily "inspired" by the Scott Addict Gravel. That's also why I'm hoping 50/34 will fit, since that fits on the Scott.
2) When it comes to the setback, what matters is that we can achieve our preferred saddle position relative to the BB. This in turn can be determined from just 2 factors: The seat tube angle and the setback relative to the line through the bottom bracket. The reason the setback looks big is that the seat tube is shifted forward relative to the BB as seen by the blue line.
i) My current bike has a STA of 73.5 instead of 73 on the Graro. That results in shifting the saddle back roughly 5mm at my saddle height, relative to my current bike.
ii) My current bike has a setback of maybe 5mm, (round seatpost centered on the BB). This means another net 15-5 mm = 10mm setback.
iii) However, the clamp that holds the saddle rails is also much smaller on the Graro, which gives a bit of leeway the other way (roughly 7mm by my estimation).
I've concluded that I can easily achieve my current saddle position, even without slamming the saddle all the way forward.
Will definitely post a lot of measurements related to tire clearance, chainring clearance etc when I receive the frame!
Great you did it! Actually I have the same plan with my future bike - to replace my gravel and road and just have one dropbar bike with two wheelsets in the garage. Do you already have an idea for your wheelsets? I was thinking about road rims with 32mm external and about 23-25mm internal to run 30mm upfront and 32mm in the rear. I just haven't found rims with 32mm outer. These are my current options:
- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006062147755.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006062147755.html)
- https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006639888848.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006639888848.html)
Hubs: Goldix R180SL (super light - durability?)
As for the gravels my rim choice might be 36mm outer and 30mm internal: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006427795061.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006427795061.html)
Hubs: Goldix R240SL (super light - more durable??)
You guy are certainly correct with the saddle offset. My current Velobuild GF-001 has an STA of 72.5° plus setback seatpost, which is kinda stupid, since the geo was cloned from the OPEN U.P., but the OPEN has a straight seatpost. Anyways, My saddle is slammed all the way to the front. Okay, maybe 10mm are left. I'm using a Fabric Line which has really long rails, but I already have some ali 3D saddle which will not have as much room to play. I will have to do some more calculations. Do you guys have a recommendation for a good seating position calculator?
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For now, I'm going with the wheelsets I already have - DT Swiss G1800 alu gravel wheels and Fulcrum DB6 alu road wheels.
For road, I'll probably go 32mm GP5K STR front and back. For gravel I'll first see how big a tire I can fit and then pick a brand (would be nice to fit a 48 Thundero, but that's unlikely I think).
Wheels are definitely the next upgrade though, once I figure out what I want. I have my eye on the crazy Nextie 45AGX wheelset (inspired by the 3T Discus wheelset I think) - 40mm external, 29mm internal hooked rim and 45mm deep.
For what you want, Lightbicycle have 32 external / 25 internal rims in many different depths.
For the bike fit stuff, I have no idea. I just know that I don't hate my current saddle position. Should definitely get a fit some day though.
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Yes, I've seen these LB rims. As the huge Nextie Rims they are a bit on the expensive side. So I was looking for sth. more reasonable.
May I ask how tall you are? I'm undecided between 56 and 58. I'm 6.0ft (184/88cm).
Btw. They measured the internal fork with for me which is supposed to be 53mm. I didn't ask about the rear clearance. But since the frame has a dropped chainstay 48mm could fit (But with the nextie rims ... I'm not so sure ;D).
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Yes, I've seen these LB rims. As the huge Nextie Rims they are a bit on the expensive side. So I was looking for sth. more reasonable.
May I ask how tall you are? I'm undecided between 56 and 58. I'm 6.0ft (184/88cm).
Yeah, they are definitely not the cheapest rims. Maybe I should also consider others!
I'm 180cm and I was definitely struggling to choose between the 54 and 56. The 58 is huge though, do you need the extra toe clearance?
I did a lot of calculations and concluded that just like with the saddle position, I would have some room to play with in terms of stack and reach on 56, and I would most likely not have to worry about toe overlap.
Since the STA is the same for both (edit: 56 and 58 are the same, not 54 and 56), the saddle position should be irrelevant for this choice and you can focus on getting the stack and reach numbers you want, and the front center you need to avoid overlap.
Btw. They measured the internal fork with for me which is supposed to be 53mm. I didn't ask about the rear clearance. But since the frame has a dropped chainstay 48mm could fit (But with the nextie rims ... I'm not so sure ;D).
Nice, I tried to get them to do measurements with no luck. Yeah maybe the best option is to go for a nominally smaller tire with the really wide rim :D.
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The 58 is huge though, do you need the extra toe clearance?
No, my toes are luckily not that long. ;D I calculated that with >620mm of BB to front axle I should be on the save side. Size 56 is actually perfect regarding body position (apart from the seatpost). My next concern is that I would like to fit my full frame bag into the triangle which would need min 45cm of vertical space. Too bad that many frames are having lower top tubes now.
Nice, I tried to get them to do measurements with no luck. Yeah maybe the best option is to go for a nominally smaller tire with the really wide rim :D.
They didn't answer your question? I actually asked two different contacts, because the first answer got stuck in my spam folder. The first answer was 60mm in fact. But this sounded a bit unrealistic for a 45mm frame set.
Yes, I think with such a big inner width tires might blow up to the next tire with. The 44mm Tufo could increase it's width by 3mm already. But I would wait until the frame is in your hands to measure the real clearance.
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No, my toes are luckily not that long. ;D I calculated that with >620mm of BB to front axle I should be on the save side. Size 56 is actually perfect regarding body position (apart from the seatpost). My next concern is that I would like to fit my full frame bag into the triangle which would need min 45cm of vertical space. Too bad that many frames are having lower top tubes now.
I'd rather buy the right size bike and a new frame bag ;D
They didn't answer your question? I actually asked two different contacts, because the first answer got stuck in my spam folder. The first answer was 60mm in fact. But this sounded a bit unrealistic for a 45mm frame set.
Yes, I think with such a big inner width tires might blow up to the next tire with. The 44mm Tufo could increase it's width by 3mm already. But I would wait until the frame is in your hands to measure the real clearance.
Nope. I asked for seatstay, chainstay and fork clearance measurements and the reply was
"Hi XXX
Thanks for your inquiry .
GRAR0 need to buy on www.icancycling.com
Thanks . "
I don't think they really understood the question honestly. Wrt tires, yeah I'll wait and see.
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I've just placed an order for one of these frames, I've been dealing with Perry at Ican cycling whose been really helpful, his email is perry@icancycling.com
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Nice! What size/color?
If you have any information that hasn't already been discussed, feel free to share it.
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I went for the Pearl White.
I also asked Perry if they could customize the forks to remove the bolt holes on the forks which they will do but it adds 30 days to the delivery date which gives a lead time of 80 days.
Hopefully that means a delivery date of the end of July which works very well for me and gives me time to get it ready for cross and maybe a September gravel race.
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Nice, the Pearl White looks really good.
I asked the exact same question to Perry and he said no ::). In the dark green it's not a big deal so I'm not willing to wait another month for it anyway. The lighter colors look a lot nicer without the holes I think.
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They're going to fill in the bolt holes and the hole under the forks which should help come the cross season. Hopefully it wont take that much longer to do
Oz cycle have done a review of the frame on youtube
https://youtube.com/watch?v=alWjt9AqT0Q&si=O0iNAbGPOasfP_gP
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Looking at this frame in a 58cm and would build it up with a sram groupset. For a 1x, would a 46t chainring fit ? Sram does have their dub road wide crankset but don't know if that will be necessary.
UPDATE:
Ordered a 58 in celeste colorway
Asked some questions, got some answers from person named Perry:
-asked for fork with no holes, was no problem
-Max 1x chainring is 42t
-BB is the t47 85.5
-for 1x is there a fully closed cover for front derrailleur cable hole -> no
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Looking at this frame in a 58cm and would build it up with a sram groupset. For a 1x, would a 46t chainring fit ? Sram does have their dub road wide crankset but don't know if that will be necessary.
UPDATE:
Ordered a 58 in celeste colorway
Asked some questions, got some answers from person named Perry:
-asked for fork with no holes, was no problem
-Max 1x chainring is 42t
-BB is the t47 85.5
-for 1x is there a fully closed cover for front derrailleur cable hole -> no
I have so cycle g056 with 42t max chainring but I run 44t with zero problem and I am more then sure 46 will fit without any problem. Just order 46t wide and try it. If to tight just use some spacers.
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My frameset with the fork bolt holes filled is ready to be shipped, with the extra work its taken just under 30 days from placing the order.
I've been really impressed with ICAN, they've contacted me at every stage of the frame build . I'm looking forward to getting it built up
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Im building one here. Quality seems very good. I didn’t like the handlebar so decided to replace it. This headset works good https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/sv/fsa-integrerat-headset-n.-55r-1-1-8-36-45-/138502170/p?utm_medium=afiliados&id_producte=14737909&country=SE&belboon=2406052048140650946&iclid=1-21640397-0886-39c2-80c2-498608970364-a77618&utm_source=521466
Any questions let me know :)
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I'll look forward to seeing some pics of the finished build
thanks for the link to the headset are the supplied bearings the correct size?
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Im building one here. Quality seems very good. I didn’t like the handlebar so decided to replace it. This headset works good https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/sv/fsa-integrerat-headset-n.-55r-1-1-8-36-45-/138502170/p?utm_medium=afiliados&id_producte=14737909&country=SE&belboon=2406052048140650946&iclid=1-21640397-0886-39c2-80c2-498608970364-a77618&utm_source=521466
Any questions let me know :)
How are you getting on with the build?
My frameset arrived yesterday, just over a week after it was posted.
My initial thoughts on unboxing and spending 10 minuted looking over the frame are really positive, its been well finished and the quoted weights are pretty accurate. The work to fill in the holes is also very good, I have to look very closely to be able to spot them. I'm looking forward to the build :D
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Looking forward to seeing the builds, and happy to hear the quality seems good. The wait for mine seems to move so slowly.
Have you tried measuring the tire clearance? I'm really curious to see what will fit.
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Looking forward to seeing the builds, and happy to hear the quality seems good. The wait for mine seems to move so slowly.
Have you tried measuring the tire clearance? I'm really curious to see what will fit.
Not yet, but it looks similar to my TCX which currently has 42mm pathfinders on , hopefully it will exceed that.
the rough weight of the frame with all the bolts, front derailleur hanger and thru axle was approximately 1130 grams, the rear thru axle weighed 35 grams (I think).
The brake mounting points have been faced and nicely finished as are the areas around the thru axles.
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Received my frame
I have sram wide crankset, 44t chainring doesn't fit. For the moment I have the 40t chainring on but will order a 42t.
Picture is with the 40t chainring
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Received my frame
I have sram wide crankset, 44t chainring doesn't fit. For the moment I have the 40t chainring on but will order a 42t.
Picture is with the 40t chainring
Have you tried to use spacers with the 44 tooth chainring, that may solve the issue?
what size tyres have you fitted they look quite chunky?
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Received my frame
I have sram wide crankset, 44t chainring doesn't fit. For the moment I have the 40t chainring on but will order a 42t.
Picture is with the 40t chainring
you may read about the sram crank installation manual. iirc you have to use a 2.5mm spacer on left & a 5.5mm on right for wide/t47-85.5 combination which will bring out the CL to 47.5mm. it would be unlikely for a 44t wide ring to interfere with the chainstay.
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I only used the spacers that were provided, 2.5mm non drive, 5.5mm drive side.
Tyres are 44mm Tufo Thundero, they measure 45mm and I have about 6mm space left between tyre and chainstay
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Received my frame
I have sram wide crankset, 44t chainring doesn't fit. For the moment I have the 40t chainring on but will order a 42t.
Picture is with the 40t chainring
Do you really need a 44T? I have a 36T chainring on my gravel bike.
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I only used the spacers that were provided, 2.5mm non drive, 5.5mm drive side.
Tyres are 44mm Tufo Thundero, they measure 45mm and I have about 6mm space left between tyre and chainstay
thanks, I quickly fitted my gravel wheels with 42mm pathfinders and there is loads of room
It might be worth playing around with the spacers and adding another 2-3mm to the drive side and seeing if it works ok. I've . It seems pretty common for the pro riders to fit 46t chainrings or 52-36 road cranks on bikes that were designed around grx chainsets. I looked at the giant revolts after seeing their riders do this but couldn't get confirmation from Giant how they spaced them to achieve this.
I'll have a play about with my frame and crankset and let you know how I get on
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Do you really need a 44T? I have a 36T chainring on my gravel bike.
The "Graro" will replace my old road and gravelbike
On the road bike I had 50/34 with 11-28 cassette, On the gravelbike a 38t with 11-36 cassette.
I now have a wheelset with 10-36 for road and 11-44 for gravel (gravel wheelset had shimano body)
When looking at gearcharts the 44t seemed to give me the same gears I had on my previous bikes.
Will try the 42t first, don't really want to be messing around with spacers.
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The "Graro" will replace my old road and gravelbike
On the road bike I had 50/34 with 11-28 cassette, On the gravelbike a 38t with 11-36 cassette.
I now have a wheelset with 10-36 for road and 11-44 for gravel (gravel wheelset had shimano body)
When looking at gearcharts the 44t seemed to give me the same gears I had on my previous bikes.
Will try the 42t first, don't really want to be messing around with spacers.
were you not tempted to set up your bike 2x .
I know a lot depends on local terrain and the type of riding you do but I've really enjoyed using my cross bike with a 46-36 chainset rather than the 38 tooth 1x st up I have for cx races which surprised me to be honest.
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were you not tempted to set up your bike 2x .
Not really, my mind was set on 1x for this build.
I'm stuck for now, waiting on chainring so I can finish the bike. Only need to install chainring, chain and bar tape.
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Not really, my mind was set on 1x for this build.
I'm stuck for now, waiting on chainring so I can finish the bike. Only need to install chainring, chain and bar tape.
Nice build ....is that a custom colour?
chainrings aside did you have any major issues when putting it together?
where did you get the cover plate for the front derailleur cable hole or is that just an optical illusion
Apart from a headset I've just ordered all the parts I need to make a start putting mine together
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It's the "celeste" colorway.
No issue's, one of the easiest builds I have ever done. Only had to route brake cables as I'm running sram axs.
One thing I also need to do is tighten the bottom bracket a little more. Didn't have the right tool for this.
Cover plate is from aliexpress, but isn't the right size. I had to cut it to fit, it will do for now. I also put a plug in the rear derailleur hole.
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It's the "celeste" colorway.
No issue's, one of the easiest builds I have ever done. Only had to route brake cables as I'm running sram axs.
One thing I also need to do is tighten the bottom bracket a little more. Didn't have the right tool for this.
Cover plate is from aliexpress, but isn't the right size. I had to cut it to fit, it will do for now. I also put a plug in the rear derailleur hole.
Ah, on the drop down mention on Ican's website white.
I wonder if this kit from Scott will work
https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/addict_gravel_cable_guide_kit_(2022)-9164.
I just need to get my head around all the different types of internal headsets and got one ordered. I like the look of the token S-box, I just need to check with Orro that it will work ok.
I'll be popping over to the bike shop to get the BB and chainset torqued
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It might be worth playing around with the spacers and adding another 2-3mm to the drive side and seeing if it works ok. I've .
Small update, 42t chainring on backorder, installed 44t again with 2mm spacer.
I am thinking of ordering a 44t Pass Quest chainring, it has 3mm offset. I believe Sram has 6mm offset, so Pass Quest should work without spacer ?
And some pics as road set up, those are 28mm Michelin PowerCup tyres but measure 30mm
Some bike info:
ICAN HBG01 handlebar 420x110
ICAN Aero 52 WD wheelset
Sram Apex shifters, brake, chain, crankset
Sram Force Rear derailleur
Sram Paceline 160mm rotors
Sram XG 1250 10-36 cassette
Elite Leggero Carbon bottlecages
Selle Italia Flite Boost Gravel TI 316 saddle
Look Kéo Blade carbon pedals
OG-EVKIN CM-005 Carbon Computer Mount (the wahoo insert was really tight and a part broke off, replaced it with another insert I had lying around, I hope the mount itself is of beter quality)
ZTTO chain guide (never had a dropped chain on my previous gravel bike except my last race where it happened twice, that bike had Apex mechanical groupset)
Weight: 8.45kg (with Wahoo Bolt v2 installed)
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Small update, 42t chainring on backorder, installed 44t again with 2mm spacer.
I am thinking of ordering a 44t Pass Quest chainring, it has 3mm offset. I believe Sram has 6mm offset, so Pass Quest should work without spacer ?
And some pics as road set up, those are 28mm Michelin PowerCup tyres but measure 30mm
Some bike info:
ICAN HBG01 handlebar 420x110
ICAN Aero 52 WD wheelset
Sram Apex shifters, brake, chain, crankset
Sram Force Rear derailleur
Sram Paceline 160mm rotors
Sram XG 1250 10-36 cassette
Elite Leggero Carbon bottlecages
Selli Italia Flite Boost Gravel TI 316 saddle
Look Kéo Blade carbon pedals
OG-EVKIN CM-005 Carbon Computer Mount (the wahoo insert was really tight and a part broke off, replaced it with another insert I had lying around, I hope the mount itself is of beter quality)
ZTTO chain guide (never had a dropped chain on my previous gravel bike except my last race where it happened twice, that bike had Apex mechanical groupset)
Weight: 8.45kg (with Wahoo Bolt v2 installed)
Very nice,have you been out for a ride on it, if so what were your first impressions?
I remember the 3mm offset SRAM chainrings being mentioned on the WW giant revolt thread, it might be worth having a look if you haven't already.
I'll be using a P2Max power meter on a rotor crank set from my road bike.I'm hoping to be able to leave the 52-36 chainrings on , mainly as I want to leave my TCX set up as is so I can compare the 2 bikes and dial my fit in before I sell the TCX frameset.
Fingers cross all the parts will be hear by Monday so I can start building it up
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Very nice,have you been out for a ride on it, if so what were your first impressions?
Did a short 1h ride on the road and I have no complaints so far. I felt comfortable in every position on the handlebar. I did a cobbled section and I survived :)
The Graro is about 600gr heavier dan my previous roadbike, not that I really noticed, and will be a bit lighter dan my previous gravelbike.
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Tyres are 44mm Tufo Thundero, they measure 45mm and I have about 6mm space left between tyre and chainstay
Thanks for this, nice build. What about the seatstay and fork clearances? Is the chainstay the limiting factor?
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About 8mm clearance in the fork
Stone 44t chainring arrived, no extra spacers necessary.
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Update on my purchase:
I bought the frame as a preorder from the EU warehouse back on April 30, for delivery June 30 (this was the only option).
On June 8, I wrote to Ican (Perry) to confirm that the frame was on the way as planned. I was told that the frame was on the way, and expected to reach the warehouse around June 30. Note that the preorder said "for delivery June 30", so this is already a delay.
On June 26, I again asked for a status update and was told the frame would be arriving at the warehouse "these days".
After not having heard anything I wrote again 4 days ago with no reply. I then wrote again this morning, and was told "Sorry for the delay. The frame is still on the way" with no further explanation. I find this whole process very frustrating. Of course a bit of a delay is not a big deal but when I preordered it 2 months out there is really no excuse for a delay. Combined with them not wanting to tell me that what's going on is pretty frustrating.
Update: I have now been informed the frames are in customs check. Hopefully it won't be long.
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About 8mm clearance in the fork
Stone 44mm chainring arrived, no extra spacers necessary.
looks good, I was able to fit my rotor 3d30 chainset with 52-36, it needed an extra 2mm spacers , sadly there isn't enough height in the FD mount to use it.
I'm waiting on the getting the fork cut down before completing the build over the weekend but so far it has been really straight forward.
Where did you get the chainstay protector from, the design looks cool?
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Update on my purchase:
I bought the frame as a preorder from the EU warehouse back on April 30, for delivery June 30 (this was the only option).
On June 8, I wrote to Ican (Perry) to confirm that the frame was on the way as planned. I was told that the frame was on the way, and expected to reach the warehouse around June 30. Note that the preorder said "for delivery June 30", so this is already a delay.
On June 26, I again asked for a status update and was told the frame would be arriving at the warehouse "these days".
After not having heard anything I wrote again 4 days ago with no reply. I then wrote again this morning, and was told "Sorry for the delay. The frame is still on the way" with no further explanation. I find this whole process very frustrating. Of course a bit of a delay is not a big deal but when I preordered it 2 months out there is really no excuse for a delay. Combined with them not wanting to tell me that what's going on is pretty frustrating.
Update: I have now been informed the frames are in customs check. Hopefully it won't be long.
Hopefully you'll get the frame soon and send some pics of the build :)
I looked at the pre-order option before I placed my order and couldn't see any benefit as it was the same price but without the customization option or the colour option I wanted.
With the for customization the turn around time for me was about 9 weeks including a $50 labour day discount
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looks good, I was able to fit my rotor 3d30 chainset with 52-36, it needed an extra 2mm spacers , sadly there isn't enough height in the FD mount to use it.
I'm waiting on the getting the fork cut down before completing the build over the weekend but so far it has been really straight forward.
Nice to see some big gears :D. Makes sense that the 52-36 wouldn't fit as standard, looks like that crankset has a narrow Shimano road chainline. Pushing it out 2mm puts it in line with e.g. a GRX crankset. Unfortunate about the FD height. Would a 50 fit do you think?
Edit: A bit of googling let me to this, might be a solution? https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/store/AeroCoach-front-derailleur-spacer-p202234350 (https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/store/AeroCoach-front-derailleur-spacer-p202234350)
Hopefully you'll get the frame soon and send some pics of the build :)
I looked at the pre-order option before I placed my order and couldn't see any benefit as it was the same price but without the customization option or the colour option I wanted.
With the for customization the turn around time for me was about 9 weeks including a $50 labour day discount
The reason I went for the EU warehouse option is so that I wouldn't have to deal with customs. It was a peace of mind thing. In hindsight that was a really bad decision. The newest development is that Perry has offered to send a frame directly from China instead, guaranteeing no extra fees. "Due to the serious congestion and blockage in shipping".
I have accepted this as I don't really have much of a choice at this point. He's saying I will receive it in 15 working days, i.e. 3 weeks. That means it will show up just as my summer vacation is over :-\.
Will definitely take some pics when the build is done!
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Nice to see some big gears :D. Makes sense that the 52-36 wouldn't fit as standard, looks like that crankset has a narrow Shimano road chainline. Pushing it out 2mm puts it in line with e.g. a GRX crankset. Unfortunate about the FD height. Would a 50 fit do you think?
Edit: A bit of googling let me to this, might be a solution? https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/store/AeroCoach-front-derailleur-spacer-p202234350 (https://www.aero-coach.co.uk/store/AeroCoach-front-derailleur-spacer-p202234350)
I think a 50 would squeeze in , I only put the road crank on as I had just stripped down my road bike and it was to hand.
thanks for the link, I did look at those and further down the line I may get something like that but for now I'll just put on the 46-36 chainrings I used on my cross bike for the Dirty Reiver, they'll work a treat and save going down a rabbit hole for a little while. I need to save my energy for agonizing over which 47-50mm tyres to buy
The reason I went for the EU warehouse option is so that I wouldn't have to deal with customs. It was a peace of mind thing. In hindsight that was a really bad decision. The newest development is that Perry has offered to send a frame directly from China instead, guaranteeing no extra fees. "Due to the serious congestion and blockage in shipping".
The shipping I got was inclusive of customs duty and was included in the price, it was surprisingly quick once the frame was boxed up. If I get on with the frame once it is built up I can see myself getting another frame with all the mounting holes filled in and setting it up solely for cross duties
I have accepted this as I don't really have much of a choice at this point. He's saying I will receive it in 15 working days, i.e. 3 weeks. That means it will show up just as my summer vacation is over :-\.
looking at my tracking info, it took 13 days in total door to door. Did you stick with the same colour?
Will definitely take some pics when the build is done!
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I think a 50 would squeeze in , I only put the road crank on as I had just stripped down my road bike and it was to hand. thanks for the link, I did look at those and further down the line I may get something like that but for now I'll just put on the 46-36 chainrings I used on my cross bike for the Dirty Reiver, they'll work a treat and save going down a rabbit hole for a little while.
Good to know, my plan is 50/34.
I need to save my energy for agonizing over which 47-50mm tyres to buy
I know :D. I think I've settled on trying to squeeze in a 50mm Terra Hardpack, which tests really well on BRR both in rolling and puncture resistance on top of being really cheap. Clearance will be tight in the rear though.
I also just realized that you can get the Schwalbe G-one RS in a 50mm, although it's not the fastest version.
The shipping I got was inclusive of customs duty and was included in the price, it was surprisingly quick once the frame was boxed up. If I get on with the frame once it is built up I can see myself getting another frame with all the mounting holes filled in and setting it up solely for cross duties
Yeah I was a bit confused and just went with what seemed to me to be the easy option. Good to hear you like it enough to get another one!
looking at my tracking info, it took 13 days in total door to door. Did you stick with the same colour?
Good to know. I did stick with the chameleon. Hopefully I won't regret it ;D
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I'll take some pics over the weekend once the 46 chaining is on so you can get a better idea of the clearances.
I'm going to look at some 47mm Trace Pro's, I've got some 42mm pathfinders which are good and very puncture resistant but I'd like something with a bit more bite. Plus they got better rolling resistance figures than the pathfinder which is a bit counter intuitive and they're also relatively cheap.
https://www.specialized.com/gb/en/tracer-pro-2bliss-ready/p/156476?color=231012-156476&searchText=00019-4312
https://granfondo-cycling.com/specialized-tracer-pro-review/
the paint looks decently done, I don't think you'll be dispointed
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I had a play about with the spacers on the crank and got it all nice and snug
It's only missing a few mm to be workable with a 52 tooth chainring. I might look into getting a 50-34 set up,for me I think that would be a great option for some of the faster gravel events. At the Dirty Reiver I found I was either spinning out or grinding at points with 46-36 combo and 34-11 cassette
I've just got the brakes to set up and I should be good to go :)
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Where did you get the chainstay protector from, the design looks cool?
https://www.dyedbro.com/collections/gravel-all-road-frame-protection
Got it from R2 bike https://r2-bike.com/DYEDBRO-Gravel-Frame-Protection-Set-Stay-Free-matte-black
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https://www.dyedbro.com/collections/gravel-all-road-frame-protection
Got it from R2 bike https://r2-bike.com/DYEDBRO-Gravel-Frame-Protection-Set-Stay-Free-matte-black
Thanks, that's just what I was looking for
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First ride on my Graro today, its currently set up with ultegra 11 speed and road tyres.
I still need to dial in the position but my first impressions were very good, despite the gravel geometry it felt fast and snappy on the road
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Finally an update here. I've received my frame after a lot of frustrating back and forth as described earlier.
Now that I have it, I love it. The paint job is perfect, in the chameleon green. I haven't finished the build, as I'm waiting on a few tools that it turns out I needed, but I've installed Conti Terra Hardpack 50mm tires on G1800 DT Swiss wheels (24IW).
The tires measure 48.5mm, and there is 5mm clearance both front and back. The smallest clearance is actually to the bolt at the top of the fork, which I'll be replacing with something low profile anyway.
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Hey,
Can you help me a bit with the cassette, crankset and chainring for this frame?
Would like to know if the Shimano RX600 1x40t would work on this frame, there are no spacers in the box. Should I order some?
I have available a MTB CS-M7000 cassette. Would a 1.85mm spacer make it compatible with the ICAN G25 11s shimano free hub?
Thank you.
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What are your concerns?
Chain line?
Sprocket clearances?
What brand of BB are you using?
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Has anyone set up their Graro for cyclo-cross duties?
It was my initial plan to use mine for Gravel and cross as I did with my TCX, but looking at the seatpost design around the clamping area I'm concerned it won't be strong enough to take the impacts of repeated remounts and impacts from poor line choices when I'm tired towards the end of races.
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Have been looking at the 54cm Graro frameset to replace my 58cm Felt Broam to go from a relaxed gravel bike to a race gravel bike. About to place my order, but with similar concerns to others here (sizing and the seatpost setback) figured I may as well see if someone with the bike has any input.
Sizing
The 54cm Graro is pretty similar to my 54cm Cannondale CAAD10, but with a higher stack and slightly longer. Love my CAAD10 fit but would say it's slightly too small. Looking at the BikeInsights comparison, the 54cm Graro seems to be slightly higher with a little extra length.
The 56cm Graro is pretty similar to my 58cm Felt but with less stack, and what appears to be a more pushed back seat. I'd say my Felt is too big for me. My Felt has the seat pushed forward pretty far, and seeing the 56 cm Graro has a slacker ST angle and the 15mm seatpost set back, I'm not sure this is the right size for me.
So I think the 54cm Graro is the way to go.
However, just a tad hesitant since Graro would recommend me (72" or 183cm) to go with a 58cm bike. These height charts tend to be crap, but I'm pausing because I'd be going down two sizes and not just one.
Set Up Plans
I'm buying just the frame and will test different stem lengths when I get it. Will then buy a third-party stem and handlebar to internally route the cables.
I plan to move all other parts from my current gravel bike to this one, which includes a 1x setup with a 46t chainring. I've seen people here talking about 46t being too big, wondering if anyone has had success with spacers or if they had to downsize.
I did get the 46t when I lived in Texas (very flat), but now in Arizona and there's more climbing so moving down to 42t might just be smart.
Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
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I don't know how tall you are but I'm 179cm and set my saddle height at 75cm from the centre of the BB.
I have a 54cm and there is still plenty of seatpost left to raise the height if needed.
The tip of the stealth saddle is 5-6cm behind the BB which lets me get into a decently aggressive position, there is still a bit of room to move it forwards or backwards.
I've still to settle on my reach but currently have a 11cm stem which isn't far off
I've not had chance to ride it off-road in the couple of months I've been riding it but with road wheels and 28mm tyres it feels great . Subjectively, maybe a little less responsive than my road bike but it is definitely more compliant and it's no slower when comparing rides.
if you can it might be worth getting a bike fit on a jig and dialing in a position before committing to buying a frame as it sounds like you've been making various sized and styles of frames work.
One thing to take into consideration when measuring the stack is that you have have to add 10-20mm to take into account the headset cap for the internal routing or making space for the cables to enter the headset depending on the style you go for.
I fitted this token headset as it has seals aroung the cable entry ports,it adds 20mm or so to the stack height
https://www.orrobikes.com/product/token-cablebox-headset-semi-internal
hope that helps
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I don't know how tall you are but I'm 179cm and set my saddle height at 75cm from the centre of the BB.
I have a 54cm and there is still plenty of seatpost left to raise the height if needed.
The tip of the stealth saddle is 5-6cm behind the BB which lets me get into a decently aggressive position, there is still a bit of room to move it forwards or backwards.
I've still to settle on my reach but currently have a 11cm stem which isn't far off
I've not had chance to ride it off-road in the couple of months I've been riding it but with road wheels and 28mm tyres it feels great . Subjectively, maybe a little less responsive than my road bike but it is definitely more compliant and it's no slower when comparing rides.
if you can it might be worth getting a bike fit on a jig and dialing in a position before committing to buying a frame as it sounds like you've been making various sized and styles of frames work.
One thing to take into consideration when measuring the stack is that you have have to add 10-20mm to take into account the headset cap for the internal routing or making space for the cables to enter the headset depending on the style you go for.
I fitted this token headset as it has seals aroung the cable entry ports,it adds 20mm or so to the stack height
https://www.orrobikes.com/product/token-cablebox-headset-semi-internal
hope that helps
Appreciate the insight, feeling more confident in the 54cm frame and going to place my order.
Still undecided on how I'll handle the internal routing. Currently looking at two different handlebars (one has internal routing and one does not) so that'll dictate what type of stem I get. But I'm thinking the Deda Superbox Stem might be the way to go regardless of my handlebar.
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Some small Polish startup brand reached for the Graro frames on their build.
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Anyone know what’s the bb width and spacer will fit the frame?
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From the looks of it i would guess 86.5mm T47i, but somebody who does own the frame can probably tell what it is for shure.
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Finally an update here. I've received my frame after a lot of frustrating back and forth as described earlier.
Now that I have it, I love it. The paint job is perfect, in the chameleon green. I haven't finished the build, as I'm waiting on a few tools that it turns out I needed, but I've installed Conti Terra Hardpack 50mm tires on G1800 DT Swiss wheels (24IW).
The tires measure 48.5mm, and there is 5mm clearance both front and back. The smallest clearance is actually to the bolt at the top of the fork, which I'll be replacing with something low profile anyway.
Hello... did you finished your build? Could you please share some pictures to show colour and all bike :)?
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Hi
Here is my finished bike build.
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Hello... did you finished your build? Could you please share some pictures to show colour and all bike :)?
I did finish the build yeah! I keep putting off making a post but I'll get around to it.
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Hey all,
1st post on here.
So I have joined the Ican Graro club.
1st bike that I have gotten that isnt a dedicated road bike.
I came across a problem that ended with a email conversation between myself and Perry.
I didnt want to use their integrated cockpit as I had a few stems and bars hanging around and am gonna use those and have plenty of spacers that I can use to make it work.
When the frame arrived and unpacked everything and did a dry assembly I noticed that the compression ring/washer that sits on top of the top bearing was missing.
I emailed Perry and he told me it wont fit unless I was using their bar/stem!
I informed him that it wasnt part of the bar/stem set up but an essential part of the headset and the frame would be unridedable without it!
He offered to send me a new headset and spacers BUT insited that Ican bore no responsiblity if I used the spacers with a non Ican cockpit.
Anyway I should have the new headset tomorrow and will do an assemlbly with my 3T stem and bars and see how it works.
Ta
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Anyone know what’s the bb width and spacer will fit the frame?
It's a 85,5mm - like a Trek, which in some cases can neccesitate a 0,5 mm spacer on each of side the bottom bracket.
Hey all,
1st post on here.
So I have joined the Ican Graro club.
1st bike that I have gotten that isnt a dedicated road bike.
I came across a problem that ended with a email conversation between myself and Perry.
I didnt want to use their integrated cockpit as I had a few stems and bars hanging around and am gonna use those and have plenty of spacers that I can use to make it work.
When the frame arrived and unpacked everything and did a dry assembly I noticed that the compression ring/washer that sits on top of the top bearing was missing.
I emailed Perry and he told me it wont fit unless I was using their bar/stem!
I informed him that it wasnt part of the bar/stem set up but an essential part of the headset and the frame would be unridedable without it!
He offered to send me a new headset and spacers BUT insited that Ican bore no responsiblity if I used the spacers with a non Ican cockpit.
Anyway I should have the new headset tomorrow and will do an assemlbly with my 3T stem and bars and see how it works.
Ta
You just need a C ring (compression ring with opening for integrated cables) and whatever headset cover you like.
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Yeah but the C ring with space for the integrated cables wasnt in the headset and given the headset bearings are 1 1/2 it was difficult to get one so had to email Perry.Any a new headset complete with the C ring arrived today so I can continue the build.
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Yeah but the C ring with space for the integrated cables wasnt in the headset and given the headset bearings are 1 1/2 it was difficult to get one so had to email Perry.Any a new headset complete with the C ring arrived today so I can continue the build.
Cool, bus! I might try a get a C-ring off Ican. I went with the Ridley Comp Logic-E headset cover, which has an integrated C-ring. But I am contemplating moving in another direction...
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Did your frame not come with the C ring as part of the headset?
If not then I suspect that Ican dont want to be selling the frame without the bars in which case they should state that!
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I had the same experience as you.
I’m confused why they included all head set components but the c ring.
I had to ordered a whole headset kit from AliExpress since Perry didn’t want to send me one
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Did your frame not come with the C ring as part of the headset?
If not then I suspect that Ican dont want to be selling the frame without the bars in which case they should state that!
I purchased the frameset without handlebars. It included the crown race and two headset bearings, but not a C-ring.
It is odd, but I figured it would be easy getting one somewhere else. And as stated, the Ritchey Logic E-comp headset didn't require one as it is build-in with the headset cover.
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Hey, mine graro frameset just arrived, im thinking about SRAM APEX AXS groupset for it, anyone have it already? Bottom bracket is 85,5? Will this one fit? https://www.bike-discount.de/en/sram-dub-t47-road-bottom-bracket-85.5mm
Colour of the white pearl is amazing!
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So, there is a way to get this frame without the Triaero decals?
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Yes, i asked for it in whatsup conversation, Peggy is super helpfull, highly recommend!
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[...] Bottom bracket is 85,5? Will this one fit? https://www.bike-discount.de/en/sram-dub-t47-road-bottom-bracket-85.5mm
Yes, that's correct. The shown BB will fit.
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Hello, I just finished my build this weekend, I'd like to share some thoughts with you. The frame quality is very good, no sharp edges or other imperfections inside, headset fits well, seatpost, BB all OK. The paint quality is good too (I mean the colour paint itself, not work), I ordered pearl white + clear paint in some areas. This year I raced Addict gravel and I liked the "road" geometry, GRARO has the same geometry. I also considered NOAH but I did not like the weight and the geometry was completely different from what I was used to. Communication with Peggy was good until the moment the frame was delivered, we fine tuned all details. She only did not understand (or did not want to understand) that I wish to have the frame faced so the brake mounts and BB were not machined after painting and she did not accept my complaints about paint quality. I also ordered with road handlebar 110/420 (420 = size at hoods, almost 440 at drops), the gravel handlebar is too much for me. I preferred 110/400 to be more aero :-) but it was not available, on my Addict I had also 420 mm, so it was not a deal braker.
POSITIVES
Weight (1007 g in size 56 painted)
UDH (the frame is supplied with standard UDH hanger, I purchased direct mount UDH on aliexpress for Shimano)
Geometry (for me)
Frame quality
All fits well, no problems during assembly
Delivery term was kept and shipping was fast
NEGATIVES
Thru axle head on front fork looks awful, the fork surface is flat, no cone inside, should be hidden in the fork IMHO
The bolt rivets in areas with clear paint were painted black without masking = terrible black circles around it. Peggy just told me I should start liking it when I complained...
Obligatory 15 mm spacer under the stem to cover the brake hoses increases STACK but I normally removed it, it just does not look so smooth
Not all sizes of stem/handlebar combo available
No facing of brake mounts possible
Not all decals under the paint (the one inside of front fork is gone as I wanted to removed the paint from the brake mount and I covered this area with masking tape to protect the paint and when removing the tape the decal was removed too)
The computer mount is useless, made of weak flexible plastic material, moves all the time up and down, better no mount than this one
No FD hole plug for Di2 cable
TO CONSIDER
If you wish to use larger chainrings (50x34 oval in my case or 52x36 round), then ask for the FD mount higher than standard - I did it thanks to one previous posts here
Do not order clear paint...
Spacer under the stem is 15 mm
Ask for removing the bolt rivets from the fork if you do not need them
If you wish to see more photos or need to measure something, just let me know.
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Hello, I just finished my build this weekend, I'd like to share some thoughts with you.ore photos or need to measure something, just let me know.
What color code did you order? Is that pearl white?
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What color code did you order? Is that pearl white?
Yes, it's pearl white YS775-1.
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Peggy just told me I should start liking it when I complained..
Peggy is awesome, makes short work of things..
I've already had the pleasure.
I wanted to get this frame, but unfortunately we didn't find a common language(this time not peggy!)
https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/full-carbon-racing-gravel-frame-gra04/ (https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/full-carbon-racing-gravel-frame-gra04/)
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Mine graro is also done. Havent ridden it yet but there are some things to speak About.
Pearl white colour - more Like yellow pearl but its fine .
Mechanic which i ordered to put it back together had to mill the rear axle cup because of frame build (wheel didnt want to fit easly)
I need to consider somę spacer for sprocket , its really narrow gap
Overall weight (with pedals) with sram spex axs, size 54 and Carbon wheels (Pirelli cinturato gravel m with too much milk in it) - 9,27kg
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I wanted to get this frame, but unfortunately we didn't find a common language(this time not peggy!)
https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/full-carbon-racing-gravel-frame-gra04/ (https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/full-carbon-racing-gravel-frame-gra04/)
Very interesting frame. What was their answer, only OEM?
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Peggy is awesome, makes short work of things..
I've already had the pleasure.
I wanted to get this frame, but unfortunately we didn't find a common language(this time not peggy!)
https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/full-carbon-racing-gravel-frame-gra04/ (https://www.icanbikes.com/Products-list/full-carbon-racing-gravel-frame-gra04/)
They replied to my question about the possibility of buying it. I bombarded them with questions about the differences between CFR707 and GRA04 since it’s the exact same geometry, but they only gave me the basic info:
Thanks for your inquiry of our carbon gravel frame GRA04.
USD655/pcs for UD matte. Includes frame, fork, seatpost, handlebar, headset.
It is UDH, BB86.
I asked about the T47 version because they offered BB86, and they said if I want T47, they have the G9 model instead.
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I'm about to order the Graro frame. But I'm still unsure with the stem/handlebar combination. I found this picture on the Ican website. Maybe someone can tell me, which stem is used here? For me it fits the frame perfectly.
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They have their own stems for this frame - its here:
https://icancycling.com/products/carbon-stem-st-x
Someone already used it, few pages ago
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I'm about to order the Graro frame. But I'm still unsure with the stem/handlebar combination. I found this picture on the Ican website. Maybe someone can tell me, which stem is used here? For me it fits the frame perfectly.
Oh Wow! That is actually my bike! (Which is funny because I had no idea they used that photo, although I allowed them to use it) They photoshopped the wheels to look like theirs. The build uses wheels from Elite. Anyways... Back to the question: the stem is the "Ritchey Comp Switch" stem/stem-system. In combination with the "Ritchey Comp Cartridge headset topcover" - which is specifically designed to work with the stem.
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Mine graro is also done. Havent ridden it yet but there are some things to speak About.
Pearl white colour - more Like yellow pearl but its fine .
Mechanic which i ordered to put it back together had to mill the rear axle cup because of frame build (wheel didnt want to fit easly)
I need to consider somę spacer for sprocket , its really narrow gap
Overall weight (with pedals) with sram spex axs, size 54 and Carbon wheels (Pirelli cinturato gravel m with too much milk in it) - 9,27kg
What size chainring (number of teeth) are you running?
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40t
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The official max tire clearance is listed as 45mm. In your experience, is the actual clearance typically larger? Do you think a true 48mm tire could fit without issues? Also, do you happen to know how wide the downtube is - so it "replaces" a mudguard if its muddy :) ?
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I fitted some 47mm Specialized tracer tyres which measured up as 47mm and there is room to spare
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I'm also interested in purchasing this frame, but I have a few questions:
- Can I order an unpainted version of the frame?
- Can I use it steam + handlebar (Easton EC70 + Easton EA90 stem) instead of integrated cockpit?
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The official max tire clearance is listed as 45mm. In your experience, is the actual clearance typically larger? Do you think a true 48mm tire could fit without issues? Also, do you happen to know how wide the downtube is - so it "replaces" a mudguard if its muddy :) ?
I'm running 2.1" Thunder Burts on mine (51mm measured). There's obviously not much clearance - slightly less than 3mm - but it hasn't been a problem yet. I'm running 2x and had to swap the Ultegra FD for a GRX to get a bit more clearance.
IIRC, the downtube measures 50mm wide. However, i run the new Speedrocker XL 52mm clip-on mudguards. Very happy with them.
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No one in their right mind would consider 3 mm of clearance enough. That is borderline for a pure road bike!
A little bit of flex in wheel or frame, a wheel that is slighly out of true, and/or a little bit of dirt and your tire will easily eat away the carbon. And let's not talk about mud...
My alloy gravel bike is missing a good bit of paint on the chainstays after two seasons of autumn/winter rides, and that is with 5-6 mm of clearance both sides.
Really, the Specialized Tracer posted above is realistically already borderline. There is no "room to spare". If you want to use MTB-like tires, just buy a frame suitable for those.
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No, it's been fine, at least on my local terrain. I've done roughly 5000 km on it so far, a good chunk of that on wet and muddy gravel with no damage so far. This includes some races and several 1000+ w sprints.
I did scratch my paint a little on a recent very muddy ride so I'll put some frame protection on.
I didn't like the look of any of the frames with big clearance when I bought this one. The Tideace GR201 looks nice but it wasn't available when I bought this frame, and I don't really like the geo on the Yoeleo G21 (which is also twice the price).
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can You show us how does it look like from side and between fork?
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There is a minimum 5mm of space all round with the 47mm tracers which is plenty for fire-track roads and far more space than I had on my TCX with 42mm pathfinder tyres in and they worked perfectly without any clogging issues
From my experience of muddy CX races if the course is claggy it really doesn't matter how much space you have between the tyre and frame, mud will fill it eventually
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Guys. Did You mount 160mm on rear with adaptor? In description it’s 140mm but not sure because its road standard..
Thanks!
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For Sram use the adapter that is supplied (rear). I just had to flip the supplied adapter at the front for 160mm rotors.
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Me likey!
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I just received all parts for my Graro build in silver grey fade. Plan was to build it up with Ultegra FC-R8100 2x 50/34, but it just won't fit. Without spacers, as recommended by the instructions of the Praxis t47 IB bottom bracket, the chainrings are contacting the frame / chainstay. With spacers on the drive side, the chainrings have enough space, but then the left crank arm can not be put on all the way...
Since I read a few posts about 2x working fine, is it crankset specific or what am I missing?
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I would contact Ican, it looks like they they fitted a 105 to Graro in the picture.
I fitted a 50-34 with a rotor 3d chainset and power2max PM, that has a chain line of 43.5 so I've added 6mm of spacers although I think I could get away with 4mm.
I was also able to fit 52-36 chainrings but there the height of the front derailleur was a couple of mm to low so I bought one of these adapters to give me the height I need as I intend to use the Graro for road time trials over the summer.
https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/fsa-el344-supercompact-adapter/138079651/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=12989710&country=uk&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoZbgmMXViwMVSaVQBh2RfxBPEAQYASABEgInmfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I reached out to Ican and got a quick reply and you are right, only the latest generation 105 crankset from the Shimano Road Crankset portfolio will work apparently.
Should have just calculated it before, but the 86mm (or 85,5) BB Shell + the 2mm per side from the BB adds up to 90mm width. And since the Ultegra Axle lengt between crankarms is just 90mm there is no room to put additinal spacers. Now I am undecided if I will go with GRX after all or try with the 105.
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I would not worry about that. Looks like a paint chip to me (bad paint prep???). Too bad it's such a visible place :(
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Finally my frame come to me 10days before estimate shipping. From EU warehouse. Dont like the hologram color of logos but who cares.
Weight 8.12kg without SPD. Not bad, specially if I use 10-52 cassette.. RED with powermeter, 180/160mm brakes wit RH4+ calipers and 45x700c tires.
Looks great!! How easy was it to align the rx4+ calipers? I read a lot of people are having trouble to get them noise free. Was also thinking on upgrading to them
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SO, long story short. I bought Graro with integrated handlebar, but lost some of the spacers. Are there any compatible spacer available on AliExpress?
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Hey, did anyone of You tried to assembly Your Graro to wahoo kickr core? Have You had any issue doing it? Im having issue when im screwing rear axle to the cassette its stop moving backward (chain doesnt work properly, it locks on cassete). It looks like the adapter it came with is too small (142mm). Im using sram apex axs and HG cassette
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Take a photo how it looks without mounted frame. The cassette and spacers.
I had my graro in tacx 3t without problems.