Chinertown
Chinese Carbon Road Bikes => Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components => Topic started by: spcycle on December 20, 2024, 03:45:49 AM
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Dear All:
Have a nice day.
In November 2024, we released SP-R088. This is a light weight disc brake road frame. This frame is made of EPS technology and we provide 6 sizes: 44/49/52/54/56/58.
Now share some picture and information to this forum members.
Any interesting of this frame, feel free to contact us at any time.
info@lc2000.com.cn
For SP-R088 some inforamtion listed:
Frame available sizes: 44*49/52/54/56/58
Headset Size: Upper 52mm, Lower 52mm
Bottom bracket: BSA thread, BB shell width 68mm
Rear derailleur hanger: UDH
Seatpost: Special, length 380mm
Brake: Flat Mount Disc Brake, 140/160mm Rotor
Maximum tire clearance: 700*32C
Cable: Full Hidden Internal Cable Routing
Axle Spec: Rear 142*12mm and front 100*12mm
Suitable Derailleur: Di2 And Mechanical Both
Weight: Size 52 Matt Black, Frame 780g(excluding metal accessories), Fork 390g , Seatpost 190g
Many thanks.
David
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I’m definitely intrigued by this frameset but unable to find reviews anywhere. Anyone on here purchased this yet?
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I’m definitely intrigued by this frameset but unable to find reviews anywhere. Anyone on here purchased this yet?
My R088 just got painted and they sent pictures already. I went with a simple UD gloss finish over bare carbon. Frame was weighed without metal hardware (the UDH and FD hanger) and my size 52cm frameset came in at 760g. I'll report back once my frame arrives hopefully within the next few weeks.
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Very interested in this frame as well. Please update us when you get your hands on it @jonathanf2
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Very interested in this frame as well. Please update us when you get your hands on it @jonathanf2
I wasn't planning on upgrading my road frame this year, but this frame ticked all the right boxes for me. Plus the next major AliEx sale is the Summer Sale and US prices will most likely increase, so I figure it's a good time to buy. Also from the pictures I received, I can confirm Di2/ER9/ERX battery routing goes behind the FD hanger. It's very similar to the other SL8 clones, but with a slightly different head tube.
Though I'm planning to build this out as a lightweight climber. I was debating between the SPCycle R088 and ICAN FL1, but the R088 is cheaper, confirmed EPS molded(hopefully), UDH and still fairly lightweight. Also I just can't get myself to like the Aethos style design. For those who are interested in an aero build, this won't be it. I'm aiming to get this build in the mid-6kg range with pedals, cages, computer mount and power meter. I'll be swapping over my ER9 groupset and other components from my current TFSA SL6 clone frameset.
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could you show a photos ? I also want to have some UD gloss bare carbon look :D
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could you show a photos ? I also want to have some UD gloss bare carbon look :D
Only reason I opted for UD glossy is that my last SPCycle frameset had so-so paint. My other UD glossy frameset seemed to fare better from regular ride wear. I attached a photo they sent me with the frame on the scale.
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Only reason I opted for UD glossy is that my last SPCycle frameset had so-so paint. My other UD glossy frameset seemed to fare better from regular ride wear. I attached a photo they sent me with the frame on the scale.
Anybody has any feedbacks about this ? Seems lighter than TT-X68 ..
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Anybody has any feedbacks about this ? Seems lighter than TT-X68 ..
My frame is shipping this week according to SPcycle, I'm guessing I'm one of the first early adopters. They're taking longer than expected. The last time I ordered from them it took only 14 days to prep, paint and ship my frameset to my doorstep.
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I wasn't planning on upgrading my road frame this year, but this frame ticked all the right boxes for me. Plus the next major AliEx sale is the Summer Sale and US prices will most likely increase, so I figure it's a good time to buy. Also from the pictures I received, I can confirm Di2/ER9/ERX battery routing goes behind the FD hanger. It's very similar to the other SL8 clones, but with a slightly different head tube.
Though I'm planning to build this out as a lightweight climber. I was debating between the SPCycle R088 and ICAN FL1, but the R088 is cheaper, confirmed EPS molded(hopefully), UDH and still fairly lightweight. Also I just can't get myself to like the Aethos style design. For those who are interested in an aero build, this won't be it. I'm aiming to get this build in the mid-6kg range with pedals, cages, computer mount and power meter. I'll be swapping over my ER9 groupset and other components from my current TFSA SL6 clone frameset.
Why wouldn't this be an aero-ish bike? Like the TT-x68 or Speci SL7/8? Doesn't look worst to me. Off course it's not an all out aerobike (like canyon CFR, Cannondale Systemsix, Giant Propel, whatever), but those are normally (especially their chiner-counterparts) a bit more heavy.
This looks like a leightweigth aero-ish frame. Do it all, but not to endurance focused :)
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Why wouldn't this be an aero-ish bike? Like the TT-x68 or Speci SL7/8? Doesn't look worst to me. Off course it's not an all out aerobike (like canyon CFR, Cannondale Systemsix, Giant Propel, whatever), but those are normally (especially their chiner-counterparts) a bit more heavy.
This looks like a leightweigth aero-ish frame. Do it all, but not to endurance focused :)
I'm building it out more like aero-ish climber, with wider bars (fully wrapped to piss off the aero crowd here) and shallow depth climbing wheels. I think one of the complaints about the Aethos style design is that it's somewhat flexy. I want to build out a less flexy climber, that's still fairly lightweight.
Anyways, my frameset is en-route. Honestly I don't find SPcycle customer service to be that great. I had to keep politely messaging them for updates. Also they told me they're not shipping via FedEx and yet my shipping update says it's FedEx. ::)
I had a much better buying experience through the Ceccotti/Surprised Store/Sequel Bikes vendor for my gravel frameset. That frameset looked great with excellent paint work and clean carbon lay-up. Their customer service was prompt, provided lots of photos and answered all my questions. On top of that, they forgot to ship my spare RD hanger, so they shipped me another one ASAP, though for a $1 USD fee. Unfortunately they don't sell any sub 900g road framesets, but all their latest frames appear to have 32c tire clearance, T47 bottom brackets and appear to use a common (with Chinese frames) RD hanger. Their prices are reasonable as well. In retrospect I should have just bought a road frame from them instead.
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I'm building it out more like aero-ish climber, with wider bars (fully wrapped to piss off the aero crowd here) and shallow depth climbing wheels. I think one of the complaints about the Aethos style design is that it's somewhat flexy. I want to build out a less flexy climber, that's still fairly lightweight.
Anyways, my frameset is en-route. Honestly I don't find SPcycle customer service to be that great. I had to keep politely messaging them for updates. Also they told me they're not shipping via FedEx and yet my shipping update says it's FedEx. ::)
I had a much better buying experience through the Ceccotti/Surprised Store/Sequel Bikes vendor for my gravel frameset. That frameset looked great with excellent paint work and clean carbon lay-up. Their customer service was prompt, provided lots of photos and answered all my questions. On top of that, they forgot to ship my spare RD hanger, so they shipped me another one ASAP, though for a $1 USD fee. Unfortunately they don't sell any sub 900g road framesets, but all their latest frames appear to have 32c tire clearance, T47 bottom brackets and appear to use a common (with Chinese frames) RD hanger. Their prices are reasonable as well. In retrospect I should have just bought a road frame from them instead.
Thanks for the clarification. Not the bike is 'non-aero' but your build is more 'non-aero-focused'. If I understand you correct, you could do an aero-ish build with this (smaller bars, aero wheelset).
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Thanks for the clarification. Not the bike is 'non-aero' but your build is more 'non-aero-focused'. If I understand you correct, you could do an aero-ish build with this (smaller bars, aero wheelset).
Yes, the build won't be aero focused. I might change my mind later on, but I have another bike that's more aero focused, but on that frame I have higher gearing and I'm not too concerned about weight.
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Can the frame entertain fully internal routing and integrated handlebars? Wonder why they didn't package it with int. handlebars...
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wow so it looks like it may not be fully internally routed. Maybe a fork swap can fix the issue seeing that there is adequate room for the rear brake cable
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Never mind that is just misleading- the image of the fork does not reveal any holes where the cable comes out of. Praying to god I can fit an integrated handlebar..
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I’ll let you know in a few hours, but all the photos show full cable integration. The frameset is on a FedEx truck out for delivery right now. :)
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Can the frame entertain fully internal routing and integrated handlebars? Wonder why they didn't package it with int. handlebars...
I think any frame with enough clearance around the BB can do fully internal routing. Just need the right headset
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I think any frame with enough clearance around the BB can do fully internal routing. Just need the right headset
May be an error because I don't see a hole on the fork on pictures.
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My R088 frameset arrived. It's most definitely full internal cabling. Surprisingly, this frame can also be setup as mechanical. There's a hole for a mechanical FD cable and the RD hole exits through the bottom chain stay. I don't have the most accurate weighing method, but on my luggage scale with RD/FD hangers and cage screws, size 52cm frame comes out to about 780-800g. Uncut fork is about 340g. From what I can see inside the frame, the EPS molded carbon looks clean. The frame and fork uses a P1.0 thread pitch on the thru axles. I didn't weigh the seat post yet (specs say it's about 175g), but it's quite thin and there's a Di2-style battery holder included. The bare UD glossy looks fine, nothing fancy. I'll post photos later.
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Added photos of the R088 frameset. A few quick observations. The chain stays and seat stays are really thin. The bottom bracket shell is tiny. The fork spacing is wide. The tire clearance for this frame is spec'ed for 32c, but the rear triangle area looks small, so it'll probably be a tight fit. I forgot to take photos of the head tube, but I put bearings on each end, and the fit is snug with no play. I didn't have much faith in SPCycle's paint work and went with UD glossy since it's easy to touch up, but I prefer it over painted black.
In a lot of ways it's just a more refined version of the TFSA SL6 clone I'm planning to replace. I don't have those wire cameras, but from what I could peak from the BB shell and head tube, the EPS molding does look smooth. Also it looks similar to the SL8 knock-offs minus the ass sniffer head tube. I'm curious to see how stiff this frame will be, it almost looks anorexic. If I was a big boy, I might be scared of riding this. Overall, I think this will be a quick parts swap from my older frame. I'll see if I can finish the build this this week. ;)
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Added photos of the R088 frameset. A few quick observations. The chain stays and seat stays are really thin. The bottom bracket shell is tiny. The fork spacing is wide. The tire clearance for this frame is spec'ed for 32c, but the rear triangle area looks small, so it'll probably be a tight fit. I forgot to take photos of the head tube, but I put bearings on each end, and the fit is snug with no play. I didn't have much faith in SPCycle's paint work and went with UD glossy since it's easy to touch up, but I prefer it over painted black.
In a lot of ways it's just a more refined version of the TFSA SL6 clone I'm planning to replace. I don't have those wire cameras, but from what I could peak from the BB shell and head tube, the EPS molding does look smooth. Also it looks similar to the SL8 knock-offs minus the ass sniffer head tube. I'm curious to see how stiff this frame will be, it almost looks anorexic. If I was a big boy, I might be scared of riding this. Overall, I think this will be a quick parts swap from my older frame. I'll see if I can finish the build this this week. ;)
Looks amazing. Looking forward the build and the further review. Very keen to get one for myself as well.
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Added photos of the R088 frameset. A few quick observations. The chain stays and seat stays are really thin. The bottom bracket shell is tiny. The fork spacing is wide. The tire clearance for this frame is spec'ed for 32c, but the rear triangle area looks small, so it'll probably be a tight fit. I forgot to take photos of the head tube, but I put bearings on each end, and the fit is snug with no play. I didn't have much faith in SPCycle's paint work and went with UD glossy since it's easy to touch up, but I prefer it over painted black.
In a lot of ways it's just a more refined version of the TFSA SL6 clone I'm planning to replace. I don't have those wire cameras, but from what I could peak from the BB shell and head tube, the EPS molding does look smooth. Also it looks similar to the SL8 knock-offs minus the ass sniffer head tube. I'm curious to see how stiff this frame will be, it almost looks anorexic. If I was a big boy, I might be scared of riding this. Overall, I think this will be a quick parts swap from my older frame. I'll see if I can finish the build this this week. ;)
Looks great!
What about the supplied hardware, e.g. Headset, c-ring? Is it using the same plastic c-ring as the original SL8/sl8 Fakes?
And is the seatpost as thin as the sl8, so that the di2 battery cannot be mounted inside the post?
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Looks great!
What about the supplied hardware, e.g. Headset, c-ring? Is it using the same plastic c-ring as the original SL8/sl8 Fakes?
And is the seatpost as thin as the sl8, so that the di2 battery cannot be mounted inside the post?
It comes with very basic hardware. headset expander plug, 2 headset bearings, alloy c-ring, fork crown race, Di2 battery holder clip, seatpost clamp and headset cover with rubber cable plug. Yes the seat post is thin, I haven't seen the SL8 seat post to compare, but the battery has to be connected via the clamp. I'm a bit disappointed SPcycle didn't even bother to provide a seatpost rubber gasket cover.
Anyways, my new thing now is to prep the frame with clear protection decals before putting it together. I find doing that first makes it easier before assembling the bike! :)
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Also I'm really surprised this frame uses a P1.0 thread pitch. I happen to have the lever style thru-axles for P1.0 in 124mm and 168mm on my TFSA SL6 clone. There won't be a need for me to get new thru axles with levers. I thought for sure it'd use P1.5 thread pitch TAs which all my other frames use.
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Also I'm really surprised this frame uses a P1.0 thread pitch. I happen to have the lever style thru-axles for P1.0 in 124mm and 168mm on my TFSA SL6 clone. There won't be a need for me to get new thru axles with levers. I thought for sure it'd use P1.5 thread pitch TAs which all my other frames use.
I looked through your pictures and the frame finish looks pretty good, any real complaints with the frame so far? I'm thinking about doing the same thing and just getting a UD gloss frame
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I looked through your pictures and the frame finish looks pretty good, any real complaints with the frame so far? I'm thinking about doing the same thing and just getting a UD gloss frame
On the frame I haven't found any issues. I just need to find time to finish the parts swap from my old frame. I just hope there's no fitment issues with the Di2 clamp when installing my ER9 battery. The seat post is too thin to fit the battery internally. That's the only foreseeable issue. Everything else should be straight forward, especially on an electronic groupset build. Plus I'm planning to just use a regular stem and bar, so I won't be dealing with an integrated stem/bar setup (aero be damned).
My only minor complaint is that SPcycle aren't the most responsive when communicating. They were a bit slow getting the frame out, but I'm guessing they probably had a huge volume of orders for the holidays. Though once shipped, it arrived within a few days. Based on my previous order from them, fast shipping time (once the frame is complete) is their strong suit. Also my recently built gravel frame is painted white, I now somewhat wish I got the R088 frame painted white as well. Though my last frame from them easily scratched. UD raw glossy was picked mostly for durability. For those who have access to a quality paint shop, I might consider just ordering the frame raw and do the paint yourself.
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It comes with very basic hardware. headset expander plug, 2 headset bearings, alloy c-ring, fork crown race, Di2 battery holder clip, seatpost clamp and headset cover with rubber cable plug. Yes the seat post is thin, I haven't seen the SL8 seat post to compare, but the battery has to be connected via the clamp. I'm a bit disappointed SPcycle didn't even bother to provide a seatpost rubber gasket cover.
I think that if you need to insert an integrated handlebar of another brand with its spacers, the ring that I see in the photo above, the one with the 4 holes for cable passage, should not be used. but use the one supplied with the handlebar. correct?
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I think that if you need to insert an integrated handlebar of another brand with its spacers, the ring that I see in the photo above, the one with the 4 holes for cable passage, should not be used. but use the one supplied with the handlebar. correct?
Yes, I think most integrated bars come with their own spacer hardware and c-ring, not all but most.
They also sell stems with internal cable routing that come supplied with their own bearings and c-ring, but I find the total package quite heavy.
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Yes, I think most integrated bars come with their own spacer hardware and c-ring, not all but most.
They also sell stems with internal cable routing that come supplied with their own bearings and c-ring, but I find the total package quite heavy.
Thanks! Now I have to decide between this and a X68.... Hmm decisions decisions
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Thanks! Now I have to decide between this and a X68.... Hmm decisions decisions
They're practically identical geometry-wise except for the head tube design. The selling point for me on the SPcycle frame is the UDH (easy to acquire & cheap), 32c tire width (yet to be seen) and confirmed to be EPS molded (looks like it from what I can see). Plus this frame is compatible with mechanical groupsets. Tan Tan doesn't seem very open at disclosing any information on the X68.
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They're practically identical geometry-wise except for the head tube design. The selling point for me on the SPcycle frame is the UDH (easy to acquire & cheap), 32c tire width (yet to be seen) and confirmed to be EPS molded (looks like it from what I can see). Plus this frame is compatible with mechanical groupsets. Tan Tan doesn't seem very open at disclosing any information on the X68.
I asked them and they said it was EPS molded but who knows really.
I could be wrong but the X68 looks like it has a UDH as well
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I asked them and they said it was EPS molded but who knows really.
I could be wrong but the X68 looks like it has a UDH as well
The RD hanger doesn't look to be UDH (from Tan Tan's website):
(https://usaimages.oss-us-west-1.aliyuncs.com/10515/product/detail/20241024/1729761598025_0.jpg)
The frame I have is definitely UDH, which tightens with an M6 hex wrench. It's not a deal breaker, I'd just buy from whichever vendor/frame you prefer! ;)
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The RD hanger doesn't look to be UDH (from Tan Tan's website):
(https://usaimages.oss-us-west-1.aliyuncs.com/10515/product/detail/20241024/1729761598025_0.jpg)
The frame I have is definitely UDH, which tightens with an M6 hex wrench. It's not a deal breaker, I'd just buy from whichever vendor/frame you prefer! ;)
I'm looking forward to hearing how this one rides!
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I was assembling the frameset last night and hit my first issue. The seat post provided is about 350-380mm, if running Di2 or (ER9 in my case), the seat post will most likely need to be cut and drilled in order to accommodate the battery+holder depending on your height. Since the seat post is too skinny, the battery is attached at the bottom of the seat post. Unfortunately the seat post will not go all the way down with the battery attached. I'm pretty sure it's the same shape as an SL8 seat post and Specialized sells a shorter 300mm seat post but for more money. I just messaged SPcycle to see if they provide a shorter seat post.
The second issue if running ER9/X, is that the external case for the battery holder is too thick to fit into the seat tube of the R088. I found the work-around is to remove the battery holder external casing and then swaddle the battery holder with plastic wrap for protection. I then attached the battery to the Di2 battery seat post clip and taped them together to prevent the battery from falling in.
My current dilemma now is if I should cut the seat post myself a few centimeters and drill new holes for the Di2 battery clip? If not I'll have to wait if SPcycle will provide me the shorter seat post. Last option would be to buy a shorter 300mm seat post from another AliEx vendor. I found a vendor selling a 300mm SL8 seat post:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807245692808.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807245692808.html?)
If you are planning to run either SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, feel free to ignore this whole post! ;D
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I was assembling the frameset last night and hit my first issue. The seat post provided is about 350-380mm, if running Di2 or (ER9 in my case), the seat post will most likely need to be cut and drilled in order to accommodate the battery+holder depending on your height. Since the seat post is too skinny, the battery is attached at the bottom of the seat post. Unfortunately the seat post will not go all the way down with the battery attached. I'm pretty sure it's the same shape as an SL8 seat post and Specialized sells a shorter 300mm seat post but for more money. I just messaged SPcycle to see if they provide a shorter seat post.
The second issue if running ER9/X, is that the external case for the battery holder is too thick to fit into the seat tube of the R088. I found the work-around is to remove the battery holder external casing and then swaddle the battery holder with plastic wrap for protection. I then attached the battery to the Di2 battery seat post clip and taped them together to prevent the battery from falling in.
My current dilemma now is if I should cut the seat post myself a few centimeters and drill new holes for the Di2 battery clip? If not I'll have to wait if SPcycle will provide me the shorter seat post. Last option would be to buy a shorter 300mm seat post from another AliEx vendor. I found a vendor selling a 300mm SL8 seat post:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807245692808.html? (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807245692808.html?)
If you are planning to run either SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, feel free to ignore this whole post! ;D
You could also try putting the battery in the downtube by the bottom bracket. I've had to do this twice now due to running Di2 with a dropper post, and though it's a mildly annoying installation and battery access is more restrictive (have to take out crank and BB), it does work well and I've not had any issues. See https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4662
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You could also try putting the battery in the downtube by the bottom bracket. I've had to do this twice now due to running Di2 with a dropper post, and though it's a mildly annoying installation and battery access is more restrictive (have to take out crank and BB), it does work well and I've not had any issues. See https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,4662
I debated doing that, but this frame is so petite there's no way to even fit the battery through the BB shell! I also thought about just mounting the battery externally with a di2 external battery cage holder, but that thing is expensive and it just makes your bike look ugly! Lol
Anyways, SPcycle got back to me and basically told me...don't be a p***y, just cut and drill it! I've had to do something similar with my SL6 clone, but I didn't expect I'd do the same with this SL8 clone. That reminds me, I have to pick up some new hacksaw blades. I'll probably cut the seat post plus the fork tomorrow.
Also there appears to be about 50mm of seat post I can cut, I just need to cut about 35mm of seat post to bring it back to the same height I had without the battery attached. For the drilling, I'll probably tape up the drill bit, so I don't drill all the way through and do each hole separately.
Anyways, I would highly recommend asking SPcycle to pre-cut or provide a shorter seat post before ordering if using Di2/ER9/ERX or plan to build this frame with a full wireless groupset like AXS or Wheeltop.
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I debated doing that, but this frame is so petite there's no way to even fit the battery through the BB shell! I also thought about just mounting the battery externally with a di2 external battery cage holder, but that thing is expensive and it just makes your bike look ugly! Lol
The battery doesn't go in through the BB shell, it goes in through the headset (either upper or lower, depending on which is easier to get it into the downtube) then pulled down with the connected wires until it's near the BB. Cutting carbon isn't much of a problem but drilling is a different matter, even if it's in a location not so crucial to safety, I'd be worried about delamination from the drill bit. Might be worth it to get that seatpost you linked, or a Hylix one (or if you have a spare 8-12 months and several hundred bucks, Darimo is an option... ::) )
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This build has taken me a bit longer mainly due to fit issues with the ER9 battery, but I finally solved the issue! I was almost about to give up and just build this bike mechanical or save up and get a Wheeltop EDS TX, but all my ideas pop-up in my head when I wake up in the morning! ;D
Disregard anything I've written previously, these are the definitive steps to use the ER9/X on the r088 and possibly other sl8 clones!
After examining the whole assembly, I found the full ER9 battery holder (with cover) can snugly fit into the seat tube, but in order to get it out, I tied 2 pieces of ribbon string to both ends of the battery holder. You can then easily pull it out for maintenance and/or battery replacement. The seat post will still need be cut, but no drilling is necessary for the Di2 clamp holder and you won't need to use it (only for the ER9/X). Though make sure to not lose it, replacement Di2 holders on AliEx are like $20 USD! The ER9 battery holder diameter is just wide enough that it won't shake around the seat tube. Though the fit is so tight there's no way to wrap it in either bubble wrap or even thin plastic wrap.
For both ER9 and Di2, I would definitely install the battery cabling first before installing the bottom bracket. I opted not to use the hole behind the FD cover. Routing the battery cable that way makes it extremely difficult (though not impossible) to get the excess cabling into the seat tube or else it will get in the way of the battery holder (the fit is very tight). You want to get all the excess cabling below the FD hanger mount in the seat tube. For ease of installation, I instead used the lower hole that could be used for mechanical. This is an option that I'm only aware of with the R088 and might not be available on the other SL8 clones/copies.
Anyways, this frame design really seems like a big f**k you to Shimano. Also the way the RD hole exits through the lower chain stay seems more like an afterthought. I definitely think this frame was build with full wireless in mind. Hopefully I can complete this build soon, since I was able to figure out this problem!
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After solving the ER9 battery fit issue, the overall build is going smoothly. I still need to swap over the ER9 shifters from my other frameset. I'll probably run a few stem spacers until I get used to the fit, though I'll most likely slam the stem. I put a rubber seat post gasket to show where the seat post would be without an ER9 or Di2 battery installed. On a full wireless or regular mechanical setup, it will go down all the way. If running SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, you can definitely skip the seat post cutting and positioning of the battery cables.
I included shots of the chain stay and fork tire spacing. 32c tires look like they'll fit, but will definitely be snug in the rear.
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After solving the ER9 battery fit issue, the overall build is going smoothly. I still need to swap over the ER9 shifters from my other frameset. I'll probably run a few stem spacers until I get used to the fit, though I'll most likely slam the stem. I put a rubber seat post gasket to show where the seat post would be without an ER9 or Di2 battery installed. On a full wireless or regular mechanical setup, it will go down all the way. If running SRAM AXS or Wheeltop, you can definitely skip the seat post cutting and positioning of the battery cables.
I included shots of the chain stay and fork tire spacing. 32c tires look like they'll fit, but will definitely be snug in the rear.
I am loving it, it looks very good, excited to hear how it rides. We are gonna need you to go try a SL8 afterwards for a comparison
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I am loving it, it looks very good, excited to hear how it rides. We are gonna need you to go try a SL8 afterwards for a comparison
Maybe I can swing by one of the higher end bike shops near me and ask if I can try an SL8! ;)
To be honest I've never owned a high end road bike. I prefer going on vacation every summer instead! ;D The only reason I went with this frame is due to having familiar geometry and it just happens to have the specs and weight I want within a certain price point. I did keep my TFSA SL6 clone intact and I can compare the two on how they ride. Both are similar, but I'm running that bike geared different with a 52-36/11-32t and the R088 will be on a 50-34/11-34t setup with climbing as a priority.
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Also the way the RD hole exits through the lower chain stay seems more like an afterthought. I definitely think this frame was build with full wireless in mind.
Tarmac interestingly has pretty much the same design. ;D
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Hi Jonathan. Very nice build. Do you think you really can get around 6kg on the ltwoo groupset? I know the ltwoo weighs about the same as the 105 Shimano. What is your height and inseam?
I'm 178 cm and I'm thinking what size to buy
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Looks very nice, but as above. I wonder what is the durability. I'm still looking for the frameset. Spcycle said that size 58 is around 950g, so not bad. I have already used on of their frame, gravel one. It was very good!
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R088 is done. 7.2kg on my heavier 45mm depth carbon wheelset and 6.9kg on my 1100g 30mm depth climbing wheelset. This is with pedals, power meter, bottle cages and built-in computer mount with 34cm drop bars.
Unfortunately I can't ride it due to multiple fires in the Los Angeles, USA area. The air quality right now is s**t...smells like a smokey camp fire. I'll post photos tomorrow. I had to clear out my yard of debris and ash!
FYI - I'm about 173cm and I went with a 52cm frameset.
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Do they provide any spacer for the integrated handlebar ? The bearing system is NO.55R 1.5 ? I'm asking as I have Avian Canary Handlebar and I wish to use it. The frame has the UCI sticker ?
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Do they provide any spacer for the integrated handlebar ? The bearing system is NO.55R 1.5 ? I'm asking as I have Avian Canary Handlebar and I wish to use it. The frame has the UCI sticker ?
When I bought the R088, SPcycle did not offer an integrated bar. So it's frame only. The headset uses 2x 52cm bearings and comes with a C ring. This frame does not have a UCI sticker. If you have the proper spacers and headset cap, you can probably use your bars. I built mine with a separate bar and stem, mainly for ease of boxing (for flying) and I didn't want to deal with potential loose headset issues.
I didn't use the provide expander plug and I use this style of compression plug on all my bike, (type 2 expander):https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806309182455.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806309182455.html)
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A couple quick notes regarding this build. I felt like I was breaking into new "bike build" territory, especially using this bike with the ER9 groupset. I almost gave up on it due to complications with the battery placement inside the seat tube. Though I'm glad I found a workable solution and I actually prefer it over how Di2 is handled, since no drilling is necessary with the seat post. The ER9 battery stays snug and can still be removed using the string method.
Also during the build I had some non-frame related issues. I found out one of my carbon cranksets was defective (I already contacted the seller for a replacement), I accidentally cut my rear hydraulic cable too short, so I had to inadvertently switch to my 34cm bars to fit the hose length as opposed to the 38cm bars I was initially planning. Also UDH is new to me, I would seriously make sure the hanger is properly torqued before riding, because not many people bring an 8mm hex wrench.
Anyways, I built this frame just to have a more up-to-date road bike. Also there's potential to cut more weight on this bike, but my build is focused more on durability, price and practicality, while being reasonably lightweight. I'll post photos later today! :)
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Did you have any problems while setting up the electronic shifters? Some people talked about the problem of poor moisture protection in er9, maybe it has been fixed now, what do you think?
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is there any difference in the quality of shifting compared to di2?
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Photos of the build! As I mentioned previously, I can't ride the bike right now due to major fires in my area, so I can't comment on ride quality until things clear up. I've included close-ups of the UD glossy raw finish. In-person it looks like black marbling, similar to a bowling ball with similar finish! Also I pre-applied clear protection decals to certain areas of the frame. Some of the straight lines in the finish are from the protection decaling.
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Did you have any problems while setting up the electronic shifters? Some people talked about the problem of poor moisture protection in er9, maybe it has been fixed now, what do you think?
I have 2 ER9 groupsets and 1 EGR groupset. No problems with water ingress, but I rarely ride in the rain and I apply liquid tape/rubber cement and dielectric grease to all the battery ports.
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The bike looks very nice! Well, maybe I can live with no UCI sticker
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Quick ride feedback. I only did a local neighborhood run to fine tune the electronic shifting and to bed the brake pads. The air quality in my area has slightly cleared up from the Los Angeles fires, but I don't see myself doing a hard ride just yet!
Overall the frame feels stable. It holds power well, I didn't feel like it was a struggle climbing with the frame. If anything, the bike can be pushed and respond well to the rider. My heavier wheelset didn't even feel heavy, I'm guessing my climbing wheels will feel great on the R088.
I've yet to push it through the fast flats, but I think it'll be fine. Also running 34cm drop bars on this bike feels good. Didn't feel narrow and steering was precise.
Oh yeah, last night I re-did the brake lines and swapped out the bar tape (old tape), I think I had the cable orientation set the wrong way. I fixed it and had just enough brake hose to fit the bars. Any more adjustments will require a new rear brake cable! ;D
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Today I ordered this frame in matte color for 520 usd. They wrote that it will be sent on January 18, probably it will come to me next month.
By the way, I never feel the difference between "stiff" and "soft" frames. I rode for a long time on a fake pinarrelo dogma and ride on the original Scott Foil and I did not notice any difference. Although everyone said that the difference is very noticeable. I don't understand how you feel it?
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Today I ordered this frame in matte color for 520 usd. They wrote that it will be sent on January 18, probably it will come to me next month.
By the way, I never feel the difference between "stiff" and "soft" frames. I rode for a long time on a fake pinarrelo dogma and ride on the original Scott Foil and I did not notice any difference. Although everyone said that the difference is very noticeable. I don't understand how you feel it?
Most my frames are 49cm to 52cm, so I don't really notice that softness taller riders might experience. Though in regards to power transfer, my aero frame can put down more power to the pedals, though with a weight penalty. The R088 definitely seems to falls somewhere in the middle.
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I was finally able to stretch the legs of the R088 and did an early morning ride before the pollution levels of the Los Angeles fires became worst as the sun came out. I took it on both some long flat stretches and my local climb areas. It's relatively lightweight and I felt like there was good power transfer. On the flats, it accelerated smoothly while holding speed easily. On the climbs, I could go out of saddle and the frame responded well to rocking the bike back-n-forth. Handling is very good as well, I didn't even notice any toe overlap and steering felt precise without being overly twitchy. My only issue is that my other wheelset with 25c tires looks a bit awkward. For climbing I tend to prefer narrower tires. Aesthetically it looks best with a 28c tire or bigger. Overall it's a very well-balanced frameset. I think I could comfortably recommend it. ;)
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The bike looks very nice! Well, maybe I can live with no UCI sticker
You can slap some UCI Illegal sticker on ;D
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I recently received a photo from spcycle. The weight of the painted frame with bolts and and without rear hanger is 818 grams, size 54. The paint really does not look very high quality, perhaps it is because of the light. I am a little disappointed in this regard. But I am glad that the frame is very light.
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Matt black
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you can see carbon fibres on the paint, i noticed the same thing on my easedon wheels when i shine a light on them
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it's a clear finish, not a paint job. They usually let you choose between glossy or matte.
the glossy one lets you see all the grain of the carbon.
the matte one hides it a bit
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Matt black
This is UD matt, not matt black.
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some people should buy the complete branded bike and not look at these Chinese frames.
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This is UD matt, not matt black.
I already understood. But I think it's better to write ud matte in the product card, and not just matte like you have, and post more real photos so that the person can see what he's buying
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some people should buy the complete branded bike and not look at these Chinese frames.
[/quote
At the moment, you can buy a Bianchi Sprint in our country's stores for $3,200-3,500. Weight 9 kg with pedals, mechanical 105. Maybe this will suit someone, I don't know. I think it's just a shame for such a price
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The following is the weight of the Matt black frame (without rear axle and UDH hanger installed)
Size 44, weight 760G
Size 49, weight 780G
Size 52, weight 800G
Size 54, weight 830G
Size 56, weight 860G
Size 58, weight 885G
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The following is the weight of the Matt black frame (without rear axle and UDH hanger installed)
Size 44, weight 760G
Size 49, weight 780G
Size 52, weight 800G
Size 54, weight 830G
Size 56, weight 860G
Size 58, weight 885G
the frame is nice and seems well made, but it would be nice with a more tapered head tube restyling.
a simple cylinder clashes with the frame line
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the frame is nice and seems well made, but it would be nice with a more tapered head tube restyling.
a simple cylinder clashes with the frame line
Now that I look closely comparing my TFSA SL6 clone and my R088, even the older Tarmac clones have the slight tapered head tube. Then again there's always the TanTan X68 or other SL8 clones if that's the look you're going for. I mainly got this frame for the other features. UDH hangers are like $6 USD and UDH direct mount hangers are under $20 USD. Plus at some point I might try fitting 32c tires.
I already understood. But I think it's better to write ud matte in the product card, and not just matte like you have, and post more real photos so that the person can see what he's buying
Sorry you didn't get exactly what you wanted. I made sure to verify the look beforehand with SPcycle with examples before moving forward with my UD glossy coating. The only reason I went with UD glossy is that it's easier to hide scratches and other blemishes, plus I'm not confident in SPcycle's paint work from a previous frame I purchased from them.
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Now that I look closely comparing my TFSA SL6 clone and my R088, even the older Tarmac clones have the slight tapered head tube. Then again there's always the TanTan X68 or other SL8 clones if that's the look you're going for. I mainly got this frame for the other features. UDH hangers are like $6 USD and UDH direct mount hangers are under $20 USD. Plus at some point I might try fitting 32c tires.
Sorry you didn't get exactly what you wanted. I made sure to verify the look beforehand with SPcycle with examples before moving forward with my UD glossy coating. The only reason I went with UD glossy is that it's easier to hide scratches and other blemishes, plus I'm not confident in SPcycle's paint work from a previous frame I purchased from them.
I like this model for sure... Specifically because of the UD but I am probably gonna go the X68 route.
How's your bike holding up?
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I like this model for sure... Specifically because of the UD but I am probably gonna go the X68 route.
How's your bike holding up?
It's holding up fine. Still doing minor fit tweaks like swapping out the saddle and I was having minor head set creaking, which I fixed by switching out a spacer and using a different headset cap. Besides that, it's been riding well!
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A few minor observations regarding the frame build. The top tube is definitely more hollow sounding and flexes when squeezed, especially compared to my TFSA frame (940g) and Ceccotti gravel frame (1160g). I'm not sure if this is due to the EPS molding process or due to a different grade carbon fiber. Also I believe it's probably in the head tube area SPcycle was able to cut that additional 30g of weight using a non-tapered head tube design. Though I don't know if that is a good thing, perhaps the beefier head tube design allows for more stiffness?
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The top tube is definitely more hollow sounding and flexes when squeezed
Do you think it's a flaw? How much does it flex actually?
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Do you think it's a flaw? How much does it flex actually?
The flex is only noticeable if you press your finger on the top section of the top tube. Though I don't notice any performance differences and the bike rides fine. I'm probably the worst person to ask regarding frame feel and flex. As long as the bike can handle 40mph/60km downhills, most my bikes in the 49-52cm size range seem adequately stiff for me. Also I'm no sprinter and aero isn't a big concern for me, most my ride time is spent climbing hills.
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Now that I look closely comparing my TFSA SL6 clone and my R088, even the older Tarmac clones have the slight tapered head tube. Then again there's always the TanTan X68 or other SL8 clones if that's the look you're going for. I mainly got this frame for the other features. UDH hangers are like $6 USD and UDH direct mount hangers are under $20 USD. Plus at some point I might try fitting 32c tires.
Sorry you didn't get exactly what you wanted. I made sure to verify the look beforehand with SPcycle with examples before moving forward with my UD glossy coating. The only reason I went with UD glossy is that it's easier to hide scratches and other blemishes, plus I'm not confident in SPcycle's paint work from a previous frame I purchased from them.
I really like this frame. I meant, if you really want to find something to improve it is the head tube.
would you be so kind if you could share photos of the front bike
thanks
good rides with your new bike
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I really like this frame. I meant, if you really want to find something to improve it is the head tube.
would you be so kind if you could share photos of the front bike
thanks
good rides with your new bike
Sure, I'll take photos in the morning. Anything you want to see in particular?
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Sure, I'll take photos in the morning. Anything you want to see in particular?
this shot thanks
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Here ya go!
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I was finally able to stretch the legs of the R088 and did an early morning ride before the pollution levels of the Los Angeles fires became worst as the sun came out. I took it on both some long flat stretches and my local climb areas. It's relatively lightweight and I felt like there was good power transfer. On the flats, it accelerated smoothly while holding speed easily. On the climbs, I could go out of saddle and the frame responded well to rocking the bike back-n-forth. Handling is very good as well, I didn't even notice any toe overlap and steering felt precise without being overly twitchy. My only issue is that my other wheelset with 25c tires looks a bit awkward. For climbing I tend to prefer narrower tires. Aesthetically it looks best with a 28c tire or bigger. Overall it's a very well-balanced frameset. I think I could comfortably recommend it. ;)
Hi, how does the Spcycle SP-R088 perform downhill?
I'm seriously considering buying it (I still ride a rim brake frame, and would like to upgrade to something more updated/modern)....although it looks quite a bit like the Tarmac SL8 (excluding head tube and fork), I think that compared to the Seraph TT- X68, this R088 has its own "personality".
Let's say it would have all the features I look for in a frame: frame type, suitable geometries, compatibility of electronic and mechanical groupsets, 32mm wheel clearance.
I took a look at their website and it seems strange to me not to find information on the resistance tests carried out and/or on the EPS technology used for molding the frame... I suspect that the frame is not produced by SpCycle. ...can you tell me something about it?
It also seems strange to me that they don't provide a rubber cover for the seat post block and the possibility of having the frame together with its own integrated handlebar....
Regarding the BSA 68mm bottom bracket, do you think I could be able to mount a Quarq DZero + crankset with 30mm axle that I currently mount on my Cervélo R3 which has a BBRight (79mm) bottom bracket?
Thanks for the information you want to give me!
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Here ya go!
The front bike doesn't look that different from the SL8....the difference is more noticeable from the side.
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Hi, how does the Spcycle SP-R088 perform downhill?
I'm seriously considering buying it (I still ride a rim brake frame, and would like to upgrade to something more updated/modern)....although it looks quite a bit like the Tarmac SL8 (excluding head tube and fork), I think that compared to the Seraph TT- X68, this R088 has its own "personality".
Let's say it would have all the features I look for in a frame: frame type, suitable geometries, compatibility of electronic and mechanical groupsets, 32mm wheel clearance.
I took a look at their website and it seems strange to me not to find information on the resistance tests carried out and/or on the EPS technology used for molding the frame... I suspect that the frame is not produced by SpCycle. ...can you tell me something about it?
It also seems strange to me that they don't provide a rubber cover for the seat post block and the possibility of having the frame together with its own integrated handlebar....
Regarding the BSA 68mm bottom bracket, do you think I could be able to mount a Quarq DZero + crankset with 30mm axle that I currently mount on my Cervélo R3 which has a BBRight (79mm) bottom bracket?
Thanks for the information you want to give me!
Downhill it seems to pick up speed fast. Though my setup is a bit sketchy since I prefer 25c tires and 34cm bars. I might slam my stem later on for lower center of gravity + more stability, but I currently have a few spacers installed.
SPcycle seems to be the bare minimum type vendor. I've bought from them before, so I knew what to expect. I only went with the R088 because it matched my specs and price-wise during the 11.11/Black Friday sales it was cheaper than any of the SL8 clones with coupon codes combined.
I have no clue if SPcycle or anyone else is the OEM for the frame. So far though, I've done a few hard rides and it holds up fine. The assembly of this bike was a bit more finicky with all the slim internals. In comparison, my recent Ceccotti RF25 gravel build was a breeze to assemble.
I checked, buying an SL8 rubber cover doesn't seem that expensive, like $7 USD. There's nothing exotic about the R088 head tube design, you can probably use any off-the-shelf integrated bar. I'm guessing that might have been part of the decision to modify the head tube.
Aren't BBRight BBs all pressfit? Not sure I'd use a 30mm axle in a threaded BSA BB, but there's probably threaded 30mm BB options available.
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Regarding the BSA 68mm bottom bracket, do you think I could be able to mount a Quarq DZero + crankset with 30mm axle that I currently mount on my Cervélo R3 which has a BBRight (79mm) bottom bracket?
Thanks for the information you want to give me!
As your current crank is most likely a BB30 you can't use that with BSA bottom bracket as the spindle is to short
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As your current crank is most likely a BB30 you can't use that with BSA bottom bracket as the spindle is to short
It depends on the crankset - pretty sure all the SRAM 8-bolt cranks that are labelled as BB30 are actually BB386 (so will work with a BSA30 bottom bracket).
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Downhill it seems to pick up speed fast. Though my setup is a bit sketchy since I prefer 25c tires and 34cm bars. I might slam my stem later on for lower center of gravity + more stability, but I currently have a few spacers installed.
SPcycle seems to be the bare minimum type vendor. I've bought from them before, so I knew what to expect. I only went with the R088 because it matched my specs and price-wise during the 11.11/Black Friday sales it was cheaper than any of the SL8 clones with coupon codes combined.
I have no clue if SPcycle or anyone else is the OEM for the frame. So far though, I've done a few hard rides and it holds up fine. The assembly of this bike was a bit more finicky with all the slim internals. In comparison, my recent Ceccotti RF25 gravel build was a breeze to assemble.
I checked, buying an SL8 rubber cover doesn't seem that expensive, like $7 USD. There's nothing exotic about the R088 head tube design, you can probably use any off-the-shelf integrated bar. I'm guessing that might have been part of the decision to modify the head tube.
Aren't BBRight BBs all pressfit? Not sure I'd use a 30mm axle in a threaded BSA BB, but there's probably threaded 30mm BB options available.
Hi, thanks for the replies.
So, handlebar height aside, you still find it stable and "safe", right?
Yes, a rubber cover for the seat post block won't cost much, but for this reason I would have expected it to be included... as well as rubber plugs for the holes for mechanical groupset.
The BBRight bottom bracket is press fit...I was just wondering if the BB30 axle on the Quarq DZero+ crankset was long enough to be used with this frame...maybe I'll try to talk to my trusted mechanic.
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Hi, thanks for the replies.
So, handlebar height aside, you still find it stable and "safe", right?
Yes, a rubber cover for the seat post block won't cost much, but for this reason I would have expected it to be included... as well as rubber plugs for the holes for mechanical groupset.
The BBRight bottom bracket is press fit...I was just wondering if the BB30 axle on the Quarq DZero+ crankset was long enough to be used with this frame...maybe I'll try to talk to my trusted mechanic.
All I do is ride up and down hills and it's been fine regarding stability. Again, I'm probably the worst person to ask about fine details regarding frames. I do quite a bit of strength training and stretching, so I can adjust to any frame once the fit has been dialed in. Compared to my positive dealings with some other vendors, this will probably be the last frame I buy from SPcycle. It just happened this frame hit my specs and price point. The frame isn't bad, but yeah a little rubber cover would be nice to provide. Also I might be switching to full integrated bars soon since I was able to find one in 36cm.
If you're dedicated to your 30mm crankset, I would just opt for a T47 frameset. The good thing is that your bearings won't be smaller trying to fit a larger crankset axle and you'll have the serviceability of a threaded BB. Though not many sub 800g aero-ish framesets with T47!
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If you're dedicated to your 30mm crankset, I would just opt for a T47 frameset. The good thing is that your bearings won't be smaller trying to fit a larger crankset axle and you'll have the serviceability of a threaded BB. Though not many sub 800g aero-ish framesets with T47!
Why would the bearing size be smaller for a BSA bottom bracket than a T47 bottom bracket - the bearing sits outside the frame?
Looking at a few listings most brands use 6806 bearings which is exactly what you'd use if you're pressing it in. It's different if you're pressing in 30mm cranks into a BB86 press fit bottom bracket (needs smaller bearings because not enough room) but BSA should be the same size. Welcome to be corrected if I'm wrong.
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If you're dedicated to your 30mm crankset, I would just opt for a T47 frameset. The good thing is that your bearings won't be smaller trying to fit a larger crankset axle and you'll have the serviceability of a threaded BB. Though not many sub 800g aero-ish framesets with T47!
More than devoted to the crankset, I would like to reuse the Quarq power meter without having to buy a new one....
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Why would the bearing size be smaller for a BSA bottom bracket than a T47 bottom bracket - the bearing sits outside the frame?
Looking at a few listings most brands use 6806 bearings which is exactly what you'd use if you're pressing it in. It's different if you're pressing in 30mm cranks into a BB86 press fit bottom bracket (needs smaller bearings because not enough room) but BSA should be the same size. Welcome to be corrected if I'm wrong.
Feel free to correct me, maybe I’m wrong! I just presumed the bearings were smaller when using 30mm axles in threaded BSA bottom brackets. I remember watching a Hambini video where he made a big stink about 30mm axles on bsa bottom brackets.
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This frame ticks a lot of boxes and your build looks absolutely beautiful. I'm not saying i regret getting a Velobuild 268 but my brain is heavily trying to convince me to turn the VB into a dedicated zwift bike and get the R088. I really like that you can run pretty much any handlebars or stem due to the shape of the head tube.
Just for clarification: You ordered the bike in black and selected the glossy option is that correct? Because i think the raw carbon look under the clear coat looks amazing on this frame.
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This frame ticks a lot of boxes and your build looks absolutely beautiful. I'm not saying i regret getting a Velobuild 268 but my brain is heavily trying to convince me to turn the VB into a dedicated zwift bike and get the R088. I really like that you can run pretty much any handlebars or stem due to the shape of the head tube.
Just for clarification: You ordered the bike in black and selected the glossy option is that correct? Because i think the raw carbon look under the clear coat looks amazing on this frame.
This isn't a painted frame. It only has a protective UD glossy coat to protect it from the sun. I just like it because it's easy to maintain and touch-up. It's different from painted black glossy or black matte which does have a paint layer.
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I know just wanted to make sure what to choose while ordering to get the same look. Btw. just ordered the frame in size 54 UD glossy haha.
Around 570 dollars including tax free shipping to europe after aliexpress coupons (cheaper than ordering on the website right now). They told me it will take 35 days to arrive.
@jonathanf2 two more questions:
1. can you tell me the name of those handlebars? I'm also planning to go with a bar and stem combo and those handlebars look really good
2. in a previous post you said you applied protective decals to your frame. do you have a link for those or did you just use generic adhesive wrap?
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Feel free to correct me, maybe I’m wrong! I just presumed the bearings were smaller when using 30mm axles in threaded BSA bottom brackets. I remember watching a Hambini video where he made a big stink about 30mm axles on bsa bottom brackets.
I think you are mixing BB86 and BSA. In BB86 the bearings are inside the frame, so the outer diameter is limited by the frame and you would indeed have to use tiny bearings for a 29-30mm axle.
Since BSA bearings are outside the frame, you could just make the cups bigger to accommodate bigger bearings...
... Or so I think... ;D
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I know just wanted to make sure what to choose while ordering to get the same look. Btw. just ordered the frame in size 54 UD glossy haha.
Around 570 dollars including tax free shipping to europe after aliexpress coupons (cheaper than ordering on the website right now). They told me it will take 35 days to arrive.
Can you post the Aliexpress link?
Thank you
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Can you post the Aliexpress link?
Thank you
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008125947180.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.73775c5f9LKVMy&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
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More than devoted to the crankset, I would like to reuse the Quarq power meter without having to buy a new one....
So find a used gxp set of crankarms and sell your bb30 after swapping over the spider.
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I think you are mixing BB86 and BSA. In BB86 the bearings are inside the frame, so the outer diameter is limited by the frame and you would indeed have to use tiny bearings for a 29-30mm axle.
Since BSA bearings are outside the frame, you could just make the cups bigger to accommodate bigger bearings...
... Or so I think... ;D
Okay I think you're right. I believe the complaints are in regards to SRAM DUB threaded BBs according to this WW post:
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=165166 (https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=165166)
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I know just wanted to make sure what to choose while ordering to get the same look. Btw. just ordered the frame in size 54 UD glossy haha.
Around 570 dollars including tax free shipping to europe after aliexpress coupons (cheaper than ordering on the website right now). They told me it will take 35 days to arrive.
@jonathanf2 two more questions:
1. can you tell me the name of those handlebars? I'm also planning to go with a bar and stem combo and those handlebars look really good
2. in a previous post you said you applied protective decals to your frame. do you have a link for those or did you just use generic adhesive wrap?
Drop bars:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807962551527.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807962551527.html)
Just a heads up, unless you're using a stem that hides the cables routing (using the bar center cable exit hole), the other exit holes on this bar come out from the bottom of the aero section as opposed to the center/rear compared to traditional aero shaped bars. I found it a bit harder to get precise hose length with the bottom exit holes and it's not as clean looking. Also the computer mount is placed above on top of the bars, so it becomes less streamlined. This vendor also has traditional aero bars in small sizes, so I might consider those as well, while using a stem computer mount.
Protection tape:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806808805802.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806808805802.html)
4-5 sheets should protect most of the critical areas. Apply the decals prior to the frame build. Use a heat gun or blow dryer to make it as clean looking as possible. I prefer this over the helicopter tape everyone seems to like, mainly because it looks cleaner and it's easier to remove. Helicopter tape leaves a sticky/gummy residue that takes forever to remove and looks ugly no matter how carefully you apply it.
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Dear All:
Have a nice day.
In November 2024, we released SP-R088. This is a light weight disc brake road frame. This frame is made of EPS technology and we provide 6 sizes: 44/49/52/54/56/58.
Now share some picture and information to this forum members.
Any interesting of this frame, feel free to contact us at any time.
info@lc2000.com.cn
For SP-R088 some inforamtion listed:
Frame available sizes: 44*49/52/54/56/58
Headset Size: Upper 52mm, Lower 52mm
Bottom bracket: BSA thread, BB shell width 68mm
Rear derailleur hanger: UDH
Seatpost: Special, length 380mm
Brake: Flat Mount Disc Brake, 140/160mm Rotor
Maximum tire clearance: 700*32C
Cable: Full Hidden Internal Cable Routing
Axle Spec: Rear 142*12mm and front 100*12mm
Suitable Derailleur: Di2 And Mechanical Both
Weight: Size 52 Matt Black, Frame 780g(excluding metal accessories), Fork 390g , Seatpost 190g
Many thanks.
David
Hi David, is the R088 frame made by Spcycle?
Is it possible to know which test tests have been carried out and/or which ISO standards the R088 frame complies with?
I couldn't find anything about it on the Spcycle website...not even about the EPS technology used for the construction of the frame.
Is it possible to have photos of the frame in the "chameleon blue" color or other metallic colors if available?
Thank you
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Just curious, what is the price of a UD glossy finish? Same as black?
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Just curious, what is the price of a UD glossy finish? Same as black?
No price difference between painted glossy and UD coating.
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https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008125947180.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.40.73775c5f9LKVMy&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
Good price.
I simulated the purchase by metallic color and seller's shipping method (for EU deliveries)....with the application of the €30 coupon (this morning there was a €60 coupon but it wasn't applicable, now he offers me the €30 one ) comes at a total cost of €650.
I also wrote directly to Spcycle to find out how much I would spend, but I'm still waiting for their response.
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So find a used gxp set of crankarms and sell your bb30 after swapping over the spider.
I'll see...I still have to study everything carefully
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Okay I think you're right. I believe the complaints are in regards to SRAM DUB threaded BBs according to this WW post:
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=165166 (https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=165166)
Thanks for that - every day's a school day - looks like SRAM do use smaller bearings on their BSA DUB bottom brackets (but not all brands do).
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It depends on the crankset - pretty sure all the SRAM 8-bolt cranks that are labelled as BB30 are actually BB386 (so will work with a BSA30 bottom bracket).
From the information collected, I confirm that it is possible to use my Quarq crankset with DZero power meter on frames with a BSA bottom bracket shell (68mm) as it is actually BB386 (the axle is 86mm long)....it should be sufficient to fit the bottom bracket BSA30 with external caps.
At this point the possibility of ordering the Spcycle R088 frame becomes concrete.
I'm still waiting for Spcycle's response to my email....the Chinese New Year should end tomorrow and so perhaps the answers to my questions will finally arrive.
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@jonathanf2 could you post a photo of your R88 from the same perspective as the attached image (refers to the Seraph X68 frame)?
It seems like the seatstays are narrower than on the X68 and the original SL8...
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@jonathanf2 could you post a photo of your R88 from the same perspective as the attached image (refers to the Seraph X68 frame)?
It seems like the seatstays are narrower than on the X68 and the original SL8...
They look similar to me. Here's a shot from over the weekend. :)
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They look similar to me. Here's a shot from over the weekend. :)
It's probably the perspective that is deceiving, but the fixing point of the seatstays of the SL8 seems further apart.
Thank you
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I know just wanted to make sure what to choose while ordering to get the same look. Btw. just ordered the frame in size 54 UD glossy haha.
Around 570 dollars including tax free shipping to europe after aliexpress coupons (cheaper than ordering on the website right now). They told me it will take 35 days to arrive.
@jonathanf2 two more questions:
1. can you tell me the name of those handlebars? I'm also planning to go with a bar and stem combo and those handlebars look really good
2. in a previous post you said you applied protective decals to your frame. do you have a link for those or did you just use generic adhesive wrap?
Unfortunately I missed the moment....currently on Aliexpress there are no coupons and discounts on shipping costs, so it is better to buy directly from Spcycle....even if the price is not so advantageous and (so they told me) there is no possibility of paying with Paypal in 3 installments.
While waiting to get all the components and choose the paint (I am very undecided on the color), I hope that some other interesting offer pops up....otherwise I could re-evaluate the Seraph TT-X68, even if it is a 1:1 copy of the SL8 and I would prefer a frame that is more different in shape.
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It's probably the perspective that is deceiving, but the fixing point of the seatstays of the SL8 seems further apart.
Thank you
R088 lookS like the Tarmac SL6
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R088 lookS like the Tarmac SL6
Yes...among the latest generation of Tarmac, the R088 is probably most similar to the SL6, although even in this case there are various differences, see: fork, head tube/integred cable routing, thinner rear triangle tubes.
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Unfortunately I missed the moment....currently on Aliexpress there are no coupons and discounts on shipping costs, so it is better to buy directly from Spcycle....even if the price is not so advantageous and (so they told me) there is no possibility of paying with Paypal in 3 installments.
While waiting to get all the components and choose the paint (I am very undecided on the color), I hope that some other interesting offer pops up....otherwise I could re-evaluate the Seraph TT-X68, even if it is a 1:1 copy of the SL8 and I would prefer a frame that is more different in shape.
You should have choice day early next month. Also next month is the anniversary. Not sure it will be worth it though as prices are scalling up in china and lowering in the western brands
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for discounts it is ALI, they are put periodically.
Regarding free shipping..be careful because in this mode it is very easy to run into customs and pay up to 48% more taxes, it is always advisable to agree with the seller or choose default XBD shipping with prepaid taxes, this to have a final purchase price without surprises
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You should have choice day early next month. Also next month is the anniversary. Not sure it will be worth it though as prices are scalling up in china and lowering in the western brands
Honestly, I don't seem to see a price reduction on Western frames (or at least not in my area)....except for finding some end-of-series offers, but in these cases you have to be lucky enough to find the desired frame, in the desired color and the correct size....rare and unique opportunities.
In my opinion, an Eastern frame with a (finished) cost of 600/800€ can still have its reason to be, since an equivalent Western frame can easily cost at least triple, or a little less.... just look at the prices that some OEM frames reach, rebranded and sold by Western manufacturers with their logo.
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for discounts it is ALI, they are put periodically.
Regarding free shipping..be careful because in this mode it is very easy to run into customs and pay up to 48% more taxes, it is always advisable to agree with the seller or choose default XBD shipping with prepaid taxes, this to have a final purchase price without surprises
Obviously I am referring to seller's shipping method (so with shipping costs and taxes prepaid).
Last week, thanks to the discount of almost 140€, instead of spending 177€ on shipping, I would have spent about €37...not bad.
I will wait for new promotions.
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R088 lookS like the Tarmac SL6
I have an SL6 clone, the R088 is slimmer all-around.
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Honestly, I don't seem to see a price reduction on Western frames (or at least not in my area)....except for finding some end-of-series offers, but in these cases you have to be lucky enough to find the desired frame, in the desired color and the correct size....rare and unique opportunities.
In my opinion, an Eastern frame with a (finished) cost of 600/800€ can still have its reason to be, since an equivalent Western frame can easily cost at least triple, or a little less.... just look at the prices that some OEM frames reach, rebranded and sold by Western manufacturers with their logo.
I understand and I'm not sure where you are but one can have a Merida 5000 team replica with shimano 105 di2 for less than 2.2K. There are MMR even cheaper. And if you go to mechanical 105 you can find deals of 1.6k. Sometimes u just need to take a look around all the local shops. Yes, you have to search. But I see these deals quite often. And if you want higher end discounts from rp can go as high as 3k and more.
All in all, There is place for all. One should get what they like the most. But that doesn't mean is the most rational ejej
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It's probably the perspective that is deceiving, but the fixing point of the seatstays of the SL8 seems further apart.
Thank you
I'm looking at my frame right now, seat stays look identical to the SL8. That photo makes it look larger than it is. That back end is narrow and those seat stays are skinny.
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I understand and I'm not sure where you are but one can have a Merida 5000 team replica with shimano 105 di2 for less than 2.2K. There are MMR even cheaper. And if you go to mechanical 105 you can find deals of 1.6k. Sometimes u just need to take a look around all the local shops. Yes, you have to search. But I see these deals quite often. And if you want higher end discounts from rp can go as high as 3k and more.
All in all, There is place for all. One should get what they like the most. But that doesn't mean is the most rational ejej
Let's say it's all very subjective.
The Merida 5000 is a nice frame (even if I'm not crazy about the round seat post), but as a groupset I'd prefer Ultegra (even used), and I'd still have to spend money on new high-profile carbon wheels.
I've honestly never looked into prices.... here in the area (Ravenna, Italy) I don't know any Merida dealers, but I doubt you'll find it at the price you indicated.
Giant and Orbea also have interesting prices, but you have to like the models and colors offered, and in any case, if you want to stay at certain prices, you have to "settle" for "entry level" components.
I'm not in a hurry, so I could wait for some end-of-series offers, even if I think it'll be hard to find a frame I like at the same price as a no-brand frame or a little higher.
Last year the best deal I could find was on a 2023 Giant TCR PRO frameset (so without integrated cable routing) for €1200....well, if I found the same deal on the 2025 model maybe (since I don't like high seat stays) I might think about it....even better if I found a Tarmac SL8 PRO frameset for that price, which would be impossible! ;D
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I received the pictures of my frame (at least that's what they told me) today. Size 54 UD glossy. Looking good so far.
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I'm looking at my frame right now, seat stays look identical to the SL8. That photo makes it look larger than it is. That back end is narrow and those seat stays are skinny.
Hi, I don't remember if I asked you this already: did you close the holes for the mechanical group cable passage?
If so, what did you use and where did you buy it?
Thanks
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Hi, I don't remember if I asked you this already: did you close the holes for the mechanical group cable passage?
If so, what did you use and where did you buy it?
Thanks
Are you talking about the mechanical FD hole? I ended up using that hole for my ER9 battery cable instead of the hole behind the FD hanger, because it required less convoluted cable routing. If water gets into that hole, there's another drain hole at the bottom of the frame so not a big deal.
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Are you talking about the mechanical FD hole? I ended up using that hole for my ER9 battery cable instead of the hole behind the FD hanger, because it required less convoluted cable routing. If water gets into that hole, there's another drain hole at the bottom of the frame so not a big deal.
Yes, I am referring to the FD hole (highlighted in red in the attached photo) and RD hole.
When you have time and desire, would you post a photo to see the final result?
Thanks
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I recently received the frame. I liked the ud matte, it looks better than in the photos. Unfortunately, the axle from the kit is too long and does not fit. The design of the udh holder does not allow the use of longer axles. The axle is 167.5 mm. Spcycle agreed to compensate for the costs of a new 165 mm axle.
Near bb i noticed something like cracks. What do you think about it? Maybe it is a paint defect
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Near bb i noticed something like cracks. What do you think about it? Maybe it is a paint defect
It looks like a paint overspray on the aluminium BB shell.
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Looks like paint defect to me on the picture
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I recently received the frame. I liked the ud matte, it looks better than in the photos. Unfortunately, the axle from the kit is too long and does not fit. The design of the udh holder does not allow the use of longer axles. The axle is 167.5 mm. Spcycle agreed to compensate for the costs of a new 165 mm axle.
Near bb i noticed something like cracks. What do you think about it? Maybe it is a paint defect
Sorry, but I don't understand what you mean by axle.
Looking at the photos, it seems like a paint defect....have you already reported the problem to Spcycle?
EDIT: Could you measure the diameter of the FD/RD holes for the mechanical group? Thanks
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Yes, I am referring to the FD hole (highlighted in red in the attached photo) and RD hole.
When you have time and desire, would you post a photo to see the final result?
Thanks
There's not much to look at. Basically the ER9 FD battery port is positioned in such a way that I found it easier to route from the mechanical FD hole so the cable goes straight up. Using this hole makes it easier for me to pull up the ER9 battery from the seat tube. Also the FD/RD cables are situated by the BB making everything more tidy.
If running Di2 the situation might be different and it wouldn't be an issue with AXS or Wheeltop.
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There's not much to look at. Basically the ER9 FD battery port is positioned in such a way that I found it easier to route from the mechanical FD hole so the cable goes straight up. Using this hole makes it easier for me to pull up the ER9 battery from the seat tube. Also the FD/RD cables are situated by the BB making everything more tidy.
If running Di2 the situation might be different and it wouldn't be an issue with AXS or Wheeltop.
All clear, thank you.
So if I wanted to close the FD/RD holes, where could I find plugs of the right size?
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I recently received the frame. I liked the ud matte, it looks better than in the photos. Unfortunately, the axle from the kit is too long and does not fit. The design of the udh holder does not allow the use of longer axles. The axle is 167.5 mm. Spcycle agreed to compensate for the costs of a new 165 mm axle.
Near bb i noticed something like cracks. What do you think about it? Maybe it is a paint defect
I've had issues with one of my matte black frames showing micro cracks in the paint. I'm pretty sure that's the case here. If it really bugs you, maybe you can tape off that section and spray it with some matte primer or something.
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Sorry, but I don't understand what you mean by axle.
Looking at the photos, it seems like a paint defect....have you already reported the problem to Spcycle?
EDIT: Could you measure the diameter of the FD/RD holes for the mechanical group? Thanks
I don't have a caliper at home. I measured with a ruler, I can't say that it is accurate , but these are both holes about 5-6 mm in diameter. I wrote to spcycle and they replied: "Hi Friend, This is not a crack. This is an oversight by the painter. You can install the BB and cranks to test."
I ordered the bottom bracket, but I don't have the cranks to test right now. I think such deep cracks in the paint are not normal.
The photo shows the length of the thru axle that delivered with the frame. It doesn't fit the frame because of the udh hanger design. I have to put two washers and everything works fine. Jonathan, what was the length of your rear thru axle?
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All clear, thank you.
So if I wanted to close the FD/RD holes, where could I find plugs of the right size?
Just do a search for frame plugs on AliExpress. Get the standard ones that are used for Di2 holes. Or you can cover it up with black tape. :)
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I don't have a caliper at home. I measured with a ruler, I can't say that it is accurate , but these are both holes about 5-6 mm in diameter. I wrote to spcycle and they replied: "Hi Friend, This is not a crack. This is an oversight by the painter. You can install the BB and cranks to test."
I ordered the bottom bracket, but I don't have the cranks to test right now. I think such deep cracks in the paint are not normal.
The photo shows the length of the thru axle that delivered with the frame. It doesn't fit the frame because of the udh hanger design. I have to put two washers and everything works fine. Jonathan, what was the length of your rear thru axle?
I've said it before, SPcycle doesn't seem to have the best paint. That's part of the reason I went with UD glossy. It's hard to mess up and easy to maintain. If it was another vendor with decent paint jobs, I would have opted for paint instead.
I have the same size rear thru axle and it fits just fine. I would just install the wheels and have the drop outs settle into place. Also make sure your UDH is properly tightened. My UDH wasn't torqued properly when I received it. I'd also recommend loctite on your FD screws. Mine slightly loosened from constant shifting, so I had to re-tighten the screws. On a side note, I picked up a spare UDH from the Muzqi vendor on AliEx for $6 USD. Good to have as a backup.
I'm beginning to realize my front fork thru axle width is slightly off by 1-2mm. I'm not sure if it's a tad wider to accommodate different thru axle caps or it's just sloppy. Once it's tighten it's not an issue, but it's something to check for.
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Since I am seriously interested in the R088 frame, I'll try to ask here: could you recommend me some BCD110 and 5-hole chainrings compatible with Sram AXS 12V groupsets (flat-top chain)?
Thanks
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Since I am seriously interested in the R088 frame, I'll try to ask here: could you recommend me some BCD110 and 5-hole chainrings compatible with Sram AXS 12V groupsets (flat-top chain)?
Thanks
Anything from Stone or Pass Quest is your best option. :)
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Anything from Stone or Pass Quest is your best option. :)
The specifications indicate that Stone chainrings are not compatible with Sram flat-top chains....the tooth jump between the two chainrings is >13T....if I'm not mistaken, the Sram AXS derailleur manages a 13T jump.
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006024242065.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
The Pass Quest would seem to be fine, at least in terms of gear ratios....but compatibility with Sram flat-top chains is not specifically indicated.
In terms of aesthetics they are not the best.
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007663932184.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
Even these Praxis don't seem compatible with Sram flat-top chains....in the specifications it only talks about mechanical groupsets: SRAM - Fully compatible with eTap and SRAM/AXS mechanical 10/11/12sp....and then they are only available in sizes 50/34T or in any case with tooth gap >13T
https://praxiscycles.com/it/product/road-rings/#SPECS
EDIT: Here they are...these Pass Quests are specific to SRAM AXS flat-tops! So are they good in terms of quality? I don't know them...
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005007663604819.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.11.5a0871T971T9tU&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40196.366991.0&scm_id=1007.40196.366991.0&scm-url=1007.40196.366991.0&pvid=1fcc8d98-1bd0-4da7-855f-ef4790685464&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40196.366991.0,pvid:1fcc8d98-1bd0-4da7-855f-ef4790685464,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%222%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%2151.58%2125.79%21%21%21383.21%21191.61%21%40211b441e17402482089191246e2201%2112000041705123273%21rec%21IT%214842187332%21X&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A
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Pass Quest and Stone are up there with UNO stems as reliable go-to items on AliEx. ;)
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Pass Quest and Stone are up there with UNO stems as reliable go-to items on AliEx. ;)
Hi, any updates on your R088?
Have you done any other road rides and/or do you have any other details to share with us?
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My frame arrived today. Ordered january 27th, shipped february 15th and received february 27th. One month total with chinese new year in between. Not bad i would say.
Frame looks really good so far. Internals look clean and no clear coat overspray. I am running 105 di2 and i mounted the battery below the seatpost. I can get the seat down to a height of around 72cm. It might just fit, the first test rides will show. If i have to go lower with the seat i gotta figure something else out. Either cut the seatpost or store the battery in the downtube. We will see.
I just transfer the parts from my velobuild vb r 268, final build will be as following:
Spcycle R088 frame
105 Di2
Elite wheels ENT 2.0 50mm
Magene PES P505
Uno alloy bars and stem (might upgrade in the future)
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Hi, any updates on your R088?
Have you done any other road rides and/or do you have any other details to share with us?
No issues, rides fine! I do rotate which bikes I ride though (2 road, 1 gravel). One thing I do notice is that the front fork is somewhat beefy. It tends to absorb road chatter very well in conjunction with my tubeless setup. I'm running 25c tubeless tires, and even on bumpy roads, things feel a bit more muted compared to my other road frame with the same size tubeless tires.
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My frame arrived today. Ordered january 27th, shipped february 15th and received february 27th. One month total with chinese new year in between. Not bad i would say.
Frame looks really good so far. Internals look clean and no clear coat overspray. I am running 105 di2 and i mounted the battery below the seatpost. I can get the seat down to a height of around 72cm. It might just fit, the first test rides will show. If i have to go lower with the seat i gotta figure something else out. Either cut the seatpost or store the battery in the downtube. We will see.
I just transfer the parts from my velobuild vb r 268, final build will be as following:
Spcycle R088 frame
105 Di2
Elite wheels ENT 2.0 50mm
Magene PES P505
Uno alloy bars and stem (might upgrade in the future)
For a second there, I thought I was looking at my bike! ;D
Are you using the Di2 battery clip with the seat post or just wedging the battery into the tube? I had to cut mine a few centimeters to fit the seat post and battery with LTwoo ER9. On an AXS or Wheeltop groupset, cutting the seat post wouldn't be necessary and I would have been fine with the stock seat post height. Also did you ask for a matte seat post? I forgot to mention (to SPcycle) if I wanted matte or glossy on my seat post, so they just made it glossy with the rest of my frame. ???
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For a second there, I thought I was looking at my bike! ;D
Are you using the Di2 battery clip with the seat post or just wedging the battery into the tube? I had to cut mine a few centimeters to fit the seat post and battery with LTwoo ER9. On an AXS or Wheeltop groupset, cutting the seat post wouldn't be necessary and I would have been fine with the stock seat post height. Also did you ask for a matte seat post? I forgot to mention (to SPcycle) if I wanted matte or glossy on my seat post, so they just made it glossy with the rest of my frame. ???
Sorry for copying haha. I really like the glossy carbon look on this frame.
Yes i am using the battery clip. It might just fit without cutting anything gotta figure it out after a few rides. Can't ride at the moment as i'm sick right now unfortunately.
I didn't specify what the seatpost is supposed to look like, they just sent the matte one (which i really like).
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No issues, rides fine! I do rotate which bikes I ride though (2 road, 1 gravel). One thing I do notice is that the front fork is somewhat beefy. It tends to absorb road chatter very well in conjunction with my tubeless setup. I'm running 25c tubeless tires, and even on bumpy roads, things feel a bit more muted compared to my other road frame with the same size tubeless tires.
Looking at the photos, the fork legs seem sturdy....but if this does not translate into excessive rigidity while riding the bike on the road, well, I would say excellent result.
Don't you think?
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Almost done, pretty happy so far. There weren‘t any surprises apart from the battery situation which i was aware of before ordering. I went a little overboard with the spacers, might cut the fork a little shorter later on but for now i‘m gonna leave it like that.
What i really liked about the build was the semi integrated cable routing. It gives a clean look without having to route the cables through the handlebars. This method is way more forgiving. If i decide to install a 1cm longer stem i will have enough cable to do so without any issues.
Following steps to do:
- bleed brakes
- wrap the bars
- minor adjustments to shifting, handlebar position, saddle position
Can‘t wait to finish the build and not be sick anymore so i can take it for a ride.
As soon as i take it for a ride i will take some nice detailed photos.
The weight of the build (without bar tape and brake fluid lol) is 7.97kg including pedals. Given that these are 50mm „budget“ wheels and the magene crank isn‘t the lightest either i‘m pretty happy.
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Are you in Australia?
My frame arrived today. Ordered january 27th, shipped february 15th and received february 27th. One month total with chinese new year in between. Not bad i would say.
Frame looks really good so far. Internals look clean and no clear coat overspray. I am running 105 di2 and i mounted the battery below the seatpost. I can get the seat down to a height of around 72cm. It might just fit, the first test rides will show. If i have to go lower with the seat i gotta figure something else out. Either cut the seatpost or store the battery in the downtube. We will see.
I just transfer the parts from my velobuild vb r 268, final build will be as following:
Spcycle R088 frame
105 Di2
Elite wheels ENT 2.0 50mm
Magene PES P505
Uno alloy bars and stem (might upgrade in the future)
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Looking at the photos, the fork legs seem sturdy....but if this does not translate into excessive rigidity while riding the bike on the road, well, I would say excellent result.
Don't you think?
My other road bike has a much more narrow fork. The R088 is a bit wider and thicker. Road chatter feels slightly more muted, especially on my 25c tubeless tires. On 28c tires, it's practically on cushions!
One last observation. Lightweight bikes do feel physically a bit more fragile. I can bang around my 940g TFSA SL6 clone and not worry as much. My other 1150g gravel frameset is a straight up tank that can survive the off-road desert. The sub 790g R088 is like a dainty wallflower. It's stiff enough when riding, but I won't be tossing this bike around!
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Are you in Australia?
I have no idea why the pictures are always upside down in the preview. As soon as you click on the preview they are normal haha.
Update on my build: I put the battery in the seattube and cut the seatpost a few centimeters. The battery is pretty much stuck in there now wasn't really able to get it out. But that's a problem of my future self. Right now i don't really need to access it.
I bled the brakes which worked like a charm. I have some slight brake rub in the rear but it's really not substantial. Absolutely no rubbing in the front.
The bike shifts well so far but i will fine tune it over the weekend. I also added bartape and once again did a horrible job.
Bike is ready to ride but my body is not. Can't wait to put some miles on it.
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I have no idea why the pictures are always upside down in the preview. As soon as you click on the preview they are normal haha.
Update on my build: I put the battery in the seattube and cut the seatpost a few centimeters. The battery is pretty much stuck in there now wasn't really able to get it out. But that's a problem of my future self. Right now i don't really need to access it.
I bled the brakes which worked like a charm. I have some slight brake rub in the rear but it's really not substantial. Absolutely no rubbing in the front.
The bike shifts well so far but i will fine tune it over the weekend. I also added bartape and once again did a horrible job.
Bike is ready to ride but my body is not. Can't wait to put some miles on it.
Thanks for sharing those thoughts. I'm considering building up from the R088 and was curious about stiffness, frame flex/creakiness especially in the BB area. Also considering the TT-X68. Would you buy this frame again or does another give better value?
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Thanks for sharing those thoughts. I'm considering building up from the R088 and was curious about stiffness, frame flex/creakiness especially in the BB area. Also considering the TT-X68. Would you buy this frame again or does another give better value?
When it comes to shipping time, communication with the seller, the quality of the frame and the overall build process i can recommend it so far. But i haven’t ridden it yet so i can‘t say anything about the ride feel yet.
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Thanks for sharing those thoughts. I'm considering building up from the R088 and was curious about stiffness, frame flex/creakiness especially in the BB area. Also considering the TT-X68. Would you buy this frame again or does another give better value?
Half my cycling is climbing uphills and surprisingly this frame feels fairly stiff despite being somewhat lightweight. I'm just using a regular BBR60 Ultegra threaded BB and haven't noticed any creaking. In fact that was one of the first things I checked for when I built this frame earlier in the year. For the price, it's probably one of best values in the SL8 clone market.
It's also unique with UDH, less weight than the TT-X68/SL8 clones, the ability to use mechanical groupsets and less bulbous head tube. If those features sound like something you'd prefer, I'd go with the R088.
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As someone who's coming from a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix 54 cm, and who has racked up some years on that frame (about to turn 43), I'm not totally sure what frame size is ideal in the SL8. Leaning towards a 52, height being 5'10"/178 cm
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As someone who's coming from a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix 54 cm, and who has racked up some years on that frame (about to turn 43), I'm not totally sure what frame size is ideal in the SL8. Leaning towards a 52, height being 5'10"/178 cm
I'm 5'7"/173cm and I'm on a 52cm. For your height, 52cm might be an aggressive fit with high seat post and long stem. I would definitely check the geometry chart to compare with your current frame and see which matches best.
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As someone who's coming from a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix 54 cm, and who has racked up some years on that frame (about to turn 43), I'm not totally sure what frame size is ideal in the SL8. Leaning towards a 52, height being 5'10"/178 cm
I am 178 cm and i bought the frame in size 54. I don't think a 52 would be a good idea. Of course it depends on your proportions but you will probably end up with a really aggressive/uncomfortable position.
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As someone who's coming from a 2012 Cannondale SuperSix 54 cm, and who has racked up some years on that frame (about to turn 43), I'm not totally sure what frame size is ideal in the SL8. Leaning towards a 52, height being 5'10"/178 cm
I have the same height as you and I chose size 54, I wouldn't go smaller. Although Primoz Roglic rides on a frame size 52 and his height is 177 cm. I went to the specialized website and entered my anthropometric data there and according to these data, 54 suited me.
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you can see carbon fibres on the paint, i noticed the same thing on my easedon wheels when i shine a light on them
So you chose Color=Black color, Finish=Matte? Anyone know if that means it still receives a clear protective coat, just no color added so that the carbon can be seen? Or is there no clear coat added if you make that selection?
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So you chose Color=Black color, Finish=Matte? Anyone know if that means it still receives a clear protective coat, just no color added so that the carbon can be seen? Or is there no clear coat added if you make that selection?
If you choose glossy you get clear coat for sure, i‘m pretty sure for matte as well. I don‘t think they ship the raw frame unless you request it. Just tell them you want clear coat and you are good to go they are pretty responsive.
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I went for a really short first test ride yesterday. It was around 25 minutes just flat and zero intensity but the bike felt good so far. There are some really annoying bumps on the path i've ridden and the bike absorbed them pretty well even at 72 psi tire pressure. No rattling, no weird noise, no headset play, no slipping seatpost. Absolutely no issues. The only modification i did after the ride was cutting the fork steerer tube to run a more reasonable amount of spacers and get rid of that chimney. Of course that's just a first impression and doesn't guarantee that there won't be any issues down the line.
I have another information regarding the seatpost situation. So i checked the product description again and size 44/49/52 get shipped with a 300mm seatpost and the larger sizes with 380mm seatpost. So theoretically you could just ask them to ship your e.g. 54 frame with a 300mm seatpost and depending on your saddle height you should be able to fit a di2 battery without cutting anything. This obviously has it's limits since running a 58 with a 300mm seatpost might not be safe to use but on a 58 frame the battery probably fits even with the 380mm seatpost.
Just wanted to point out that there are two sizes of seatpost available and in your individual situation it might be worth it to ask them to ship a larger frame with a 300mm seatpost.
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I have another information regarding the seatpost situation. So i checked the product description again and size 44/49/52 get shipped with a 300mm seatpost and the larger sizes with 380mm seatpost. So theoretically you could just ask them to ship your e.g. 54 frame with a 300mm seatpost and depending on your saddle height you should be able to fit a di2 battery without cutting anything. This obviously has it's limits since running a 58 with a 300mm seatpost might not be safe to use but on a 58 frame the battery probably fits even with the 380mm seatpost.
Maybe it was due to being an early buyer, but they did ship the longer seat post despite being a 52cm frameset. Not a big deal, it was easy to cut it down to size.
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I went for a really short first test ride yesterday. It was around 25 minutes just flat and zero intensity but the bike felt good so far. There are some really annoying bumps on the path i've ridden and the bike absorbed them pretty well even at 72 psi tire pressure. No rattling, no weird noise, no headset play, no slipping seatpost. Absolutely no issues. The only modification i did after the ride was cutting the fork steerer tube to run a more reasonable amount of spacers and get rid of that chimney. Of course that's just a first impression and doesn't guarantee that there won't be any issues down the line.
I have another information regarding the seatpost situation. So i checked the product description again and size 44/49/52 get shipped with a 300mm seatpost and the larger sizes with 380mm seatpost. So theoretically you could just ask them to ship your e.g. 54 frame with a 300mm seatpost and depending on your saddle height you should be able to fit a di2 battery without cutting anything. This obviously has it's limits since running a 58 with a 300mm seatpost might not be safe to use but on a 58 frame the battery probably fits even with the 380mm seatpost.
Just wanted to point out that there are two sizes of seatpost available and in your individual situation it might be worth it to ask them to ship a larger frame with a 300mm seatpost.
Hi, can I ask you saddle height and photo of the bike with current handlebar height?
Thank you
I confirm what you said about the length of the supplied seat post, and I confirm that it is possible to request a 300mm length even for large size frames, if necessary.
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So you chose Color=Black color, Finish=Matte? Anyone know if that means it still receives a clear protective coat, just no color added so that the carbon can be seen? Or is there no clear coat added if you make that selection?
If you choose matte they will send ud matte, through the coating you will see carbon and it looks very good for me personally. With glossy the same, maybe I'm wrong
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For all SP-R088 owners: how does the frame/bike feel when sprinting hard? Do you think that lightness is a liability?
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For all SP-R088 owners: how does the frame/bike feel when sprinting hard? Do you think that lightness is a liability?
I'm not a big sprinter, but I've brought the frame up to 800-900w with no issue. Maybe it's different if you're a 1000w plus sprinter. I have no experience with either an actual SL8, the Seraph X68 or other clones. I can't say if the slight weight reduction and changes in the R088 head tube design might effect stability. The bike feels solid enough and I don't see any issues with the lightweight, but I only have my other Chinese road frames I can compare it with.
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Hi, can I ask you saddle height and photo of the bike with current handlebar height?
Thank you
I confirm what you said about the length of the supplied seat post, and I confirm that it is possible to request a 300mm length even for large size frames, if necessary.
I went for another ride today (finally getting healthy again) but unfortunately missed to take a picture outside. So here's one for you from the inside. Saddle height is 71 cm. The fork is cut on that picture and i'm still running a generous amount of spacers. Just the spacers under the stem measure 2.4 cm.
(https://i.imgur.com/ICuv97P.jpeg)
It rides really well and i felt comfortable on the bike. I'm not gonna pretend that i know a ton about how a bike feels when riding i didn't ride that many different bikes before to give a detailed opinion. I'm not an expert by any means. I've had a Velobuild 268 before and geometry wise they are pretty similar. I had a rather short 90mm stem on the Velobuild and a 90mm stem on the R088 as well but the R088 still felt slightly more stable and a little less twitchy. I'm not 100% sure if this is true or just my imagination though. This ride was also just on the flat and i didn't go really fast.
Can't wait to attack my home climb (4.4 km with 300 m of elevation) to see the bikes climbing capabilities and send it down the descend afterwards to see how it handles higher speeds.
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While waiting for further reviews/updates from users of this R088, could you help me choose the color for a possible new frame?
I had some "real" photos of the various metallic colors sent to me....at the moment I'm undecided between: color 4 (gray), color 8 (silver), and color 7 (red).
I would like a neutral color that goes well with any item of clothing, and I would have excluded black because I already have a glossy black bike and white because (as much as I like it) it's a bit too inflated.
The gray color seems like the most logical choice to me (even if the shades present in Pantone don't drive me crazy, in the sense that they are a bit "flat" and don't have shades towards other colors), but I must admit that I wouldn't mind a nice color that stands out from the black of the wheels and components, hence the idea of the red color.
What do you suggest?
Ah, my idea would be to then apply stickers (which I would have done in my area): front logo and brand name on the down tube....maybe opting for a tone-on-tone color, and striped or dotted graphics like the new Scott Foil Ultimate.
What do you think?
Thanks
EDIT: Spcycle logo and brand would be slightly modified (see attached photo)
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While waiting for further reviews/updates from users of this R088, could you help me choose the color for a possible new frame?
I had some "real" photos of the various metallic colors sent to me....at the moment I'm undecided between: color 4 (gray), color 8 (silver), and color 7 (red).
That metallic red looks really nice
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I can confirm that metallic red looks really good.
I have a different frame (R065) but the color should be the same.
I received the frame yesterday. The paint job is O.k. but the trained I can see some inhomogenities. If this is from little uneveness in the carbon below or due to uniform paint thickness I can not tell.
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I went for another ride today (finally getting healthy again) but unfortunately missed to take a picture outside. So here's one for you from the inside. Saddle height is 71 cm. The fork is cut on that picture and i'm still running a generous amount of spacers. Just the spacers under the stem measure 2.4 cm.
(https://i.imgur.com/ICuv97P.jpeg)
It rides really well and i felt comfortable on the bike. I'm not gonna pretend that i know a ton about how a bike feels when riding i didn't ride that many different bikes before to give a detailed opinion. I'm not an expert by any means. I've had a Velobuild 268 before and geometry wise they are pretty similar. I had a rather short 90mm stem on the Velobuild and a 90mm stem on the R088 as well but the R088 still felt slightly more stable and a little less twitchy. I'm not 100% sure if this is true or just my imagination though. This ride was also just on the flat and i didn't go really fast.
Can't wait to attack my home climb (4.4 km with 300 m of elevation) to see the bikes climbing capabilities and send it down the descend afterwards to see how it handles higher speeds.
I've gone ahead and ordered an R088 54cm in matte white. I would have gone for one of the more aero frames had most of them not had crazy long wheelbases. For some reason a lot of these Aeroad, Ostro clones add >10 mm to the wheelbase (relative to the original frame) which should be very noticeable. Though I no longer race crits, I'd still like to have a bike that feels agile.
Not totally sold on matte vs glossy white just yet, anyone have strong opinions either way?
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I've gone ahead and ordered an R088 54cm in matte white. I would have gone for one of the more aero frames had most of them not had crazy long wheelbases. For some reason a lot of these Aeroad, Ostro clones add >10 mm to the wheelbase (relative to the original frame) which should be very noticeable. Though I no longer race crits, I'd still like to have a bike that feels agile.
Not totally sold on matte vs glossy white just yet, anyone have strong opinions either way?
Personally i prefer glossy but i think that's just personal preference. I'm not 100% sure but i could imagine that dust sticks to a matte surface a little easier and a glossy frame would be easier to clean. Not sure though. My Velobuild VB 268 is pearl white glossy. You can check it out i posted it in the VB 268 thread.
Regarding my R088: I did another ride today. 30 km with around 500 m of elevation. I felt really comfortable climbing. When descending the bike was really fast. My brother rode next to me on my gravel bike almost spinning out and i was just rolling there comfortably. I think the 50 mm wheels play a part in that. The route contains a very rough segment. The strava segment is called "Höllenritt" which literally translates to hellride. It's a -7% descent over the worst road imaginable. Lots of potholes and cracks and overall damaged pavement. If your bike can handle that it can handle literally anything else. And i gotta say the bike handled it really well. The frame and especially the fork seems to absorb a good portion of the bumps. It still feels rough obviously as it's a roadbike but i never had the feeling of losing control over the bike. Really happy with the ride feel overall.
Also managed to take a picture with the bike in the sun, making the carbon layup really stand out:
(https://i.imgur.com/GjyRoZy.jpeg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/GjyRoZy.jpeg)
For such a minimalist bottom bracket, I don't really any notice any issues with power transfer. My R088 just feels nimble with quick acceleration. Though, I don't think I'd attempt to build it out with a 2x mechanical groupset. The fit is so tight, it would not be fun to assemble!
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Personally i prefer glossy but i think that's just personal preference. I'm not 100% sure but i could imagine that dust sticks to a matte surface a little easier and a glossy frame would be easier to clean. Not sure though. My Velobuild VB 268 is pearl white glossy. You can check it out i posted it in the VB 268 thread.
Regarding my R088: I did another ride today. 30 km with around 500 m of elevation. I felt really comfortable climbing. When descending the bike was really fast. My brother rode next to me on my gravel bike almost spinning out and i was just rolling there comfortably. I think the 50 mm wheels play a part in that. The route contains a very rough segment. The strava segment is called "Höllenritt" which literally translates to hellride. It's a -7% descent over the worst road imaginable. Lots of potholes and cracks and overall damaged pavement. If your bike can handle that it can handle literally anything else. And i gotta say the bike handled it really well. The frame and especially the fork seems to absorb a good portion of the bumps. It still feels rough obviously as it's a roadbike but i never had the feeling of losing control over the bike. Really happy with the ride feel overall.
Also managed to take a picture with the bike in the sun, making the carbon layup really stand out:
(https://i.imgur.com/GjyRoZy.jpeg)
Nice build!
How do you like riding this frame compared to VB-R 268? Do you feel significant difference?
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I can confirm that metallic red looks really good.
I have a different frame (R065) but the color should be the same.
I received the frame yesterday. The paint job is O.k. but the trained I can see some inhomogenities. If this is from little uneveness in the carbon below or due to uniform paint thickness I can not tell.
Apparently red is the most popular.... ;D
No one votes for grey or silver?
Could you post some photos of your red R065, especially the imperfections you mentioned?
Thanks
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Nice build!
How do you like riding this frame compared to VB-R 268? Do you feel significant difference?
First of all geometry wise they are pretty similar. The VB felt slightly more twitchy but i‘m not 100% sure about that. The main difference is probably comfort. The VB has a pretty beefy seatpost and is overall pretty stiff so it seems like that bumps and vibration don‘t get absorbed as easily as on the R088. Unfortunately i always had some lose headset issues with the VB (which should be fixable now as they sent me a new part but thats a different story) so i always felt a little anxious and hoped i won‘t get any play again. As you can imagine that has an impact on how you ride and how the ride feels. On the R088 on the other hand i feel 100% comfortable so far. Nothing came lose and the headset stays tight.
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Long time lurker and first time poster here... I am building a new bike having got back into cycling a couple of years ago using my old Planet X (purchased in 2009) and its time for an upgrade.
Having been trawling through this forum for the past 6 months umming and ahhing about what to buy, thanks to these posts I finally decided to bite the bullet and order this frame in chameleon green (I know the spcycle paint can be a bit hit and miss but really wanted something in chameleon green and there was another post with the R065 in chameleon green that I really liked the look of) - will keep you updated on any progress with the order...
Before I order the wheels I was wondering if anyone has a photo of the wheel/tyre clearance both front and rear? I know it says 32c but what is the clearance like?
Thanks
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Personally i prefer glossy but i think that's just personal preference. I'm not 100% sure but i could imagine that dust sticks to a matte surface a little easier and a glossy frame would be easier to clean. Not sure though. My Velobuild VB 268 is pearl white glossy. You can check it out i posted it in the VB 268 thread.
Regarding my R088: I did another ride today. 30 km with around 500 m of elevation. I felt really comfortable climbing. When descending the bike was really fast. My brother rode next to me on my gravel bike almost spinning out and i was just rolling there comfortably. I think the 50 mm wheels play a part in that. The route contains a very rough segment. The strava segment is called "Höllenritt" which literally translates to hellride. It's a -7% descent over the worst road imaginable. Lots of potholes and cracks and overall damaged pavement. If your bike can handle that it can handle literally anything else. And i gotta say the bike handled it really well. The frame and especially the fork seems to absorb a good portion of the bumps. It still feels rough obviously as it's a roadbike but i never had the feeling of losing control over the bike. Really happy with the ride feel overall.
Also managed to take a picture with the bike in the sun, making the carbon layup really stand out:
(https://i.imgur.com/GjyRoZy.jpeg)
Are you in Europe?
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Are you in Europe?
Yes, germany. Why?
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Yes, germany. Why?
I didn't think the name of the strava segment was in the USA haha
I am in Germany as well, if you are nearby I'd love to meet up and check the frame out!
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Before I order the wheels I was wondering if anyone has a photo of the wheel/tyre clearance both front and rear? I know it says 32c but what is the clearance like?
Thanks
I took some pictures for you. I‘m running 28 mm tires but as you can see they actually measure 30.9 mm. As you can see on the picture there’s around 3 mm clearance between tire and chainstays (non drive side). On the drive side there’s slightly more clearance. Fork and seatstays offer >1 cm of clearance.
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I took some pictures for you. I‘m running 28 mm tires but as you can see they actually measure 30.9 mm. As you can see on the picture there’s around 3 mm clearance between tire and chainstays (non drive side). On the drive side there’s slightly more clearance. Fork and seatstays offer >1 cm of clearance.
That's amazing thanks! I was thinking of the 33mm wide xmcarbonspeed rims - do you think they would be too wide?
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The more I ride the R088, the more I enjoy the nimbleness of this bike. Mine is near the 6.8kg mark (on my climbing wheels) with full pedals, bottle cages, power meter, etc. I'm quite happy with this build considering it's budget oriented and I haven't even gone hardcore weight weenie. It's closer to 7kg on my cheaper 45mm depth wheelset, though honestly I don't notice a difference when riding.
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That's amazing thanks! I was thinking of the 33mm wide xmcarbonspeed rims - do you think they would be too wide?
As long as your tire won’t be wider than the rim it might just fit but i‘m not sure if that’s enough clearance.
The more I ride the R088, the more I enjoy the nimbleness of this bike. Mine is near the 6.8kg mark (on my climbing wheels) with full pedals, bottle cages, power meter, etc. I'm quite happy with this build considering it's budget oriented and I haven't even gone hardcore weight weenie. It's closer to 7kg on my cheaper 45mm depth wheelset, though honestly I don't notice a difference when riding.
My bike isn’t as light as yours as i‘m using a deep 50 mm wheelset and the heavier Magene cranks but i still fully relate to this. The bike feels really good. Took mine for another ride today:
(https://i.imgur.com/CH4IOY6.jpeg)
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I also ordered Magene PM plus cracks and rings in 170. Now I'm thinking maybe I should've just gotten the PM and gone with a lighter crank in 165. Price of the full setup with 52-36 rings was too tempting at the time tho.
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My bike isn’t as light as yours as i‘m using a deep 50 mm wheelset and the heavier Magene cranks but i still fully relate to this. The bike feels really good. Took mine for another ride today:
Our bikes look like siblings! Lol I bet both our bikes ride similar. I'm putting at least 800w during certain casual sprint segments and I've yet to experience any BB creaking or issues with stiffness. As far as I'm concerned, this bike is rock solid.
Also I do prefer deeper dish wheels, but I have so much climbing in my area, I just opted to get the lightest wheels I could get (at a reasonable price). I notice the performance of these wheels when accelerating on climbs going out of saddle, but for general riding they're not as fast on the flats. I believe I can hold speed better on my 45mm depth wheelset despite being heavier. I swap the wheels every so often just to mix it up.
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I also ordered Magene PM plus cracks and rings in 170. Now I'm thinking maybe I should've just gotten the PM and gone with a lighter crank in 165. Price of the full setup with 52-36 rings was too tempting at the time tho.
I wouldn't stress it. I think the weight difference from my wheels is way more significant than from the cranks. The PES is amazing especially for the price and i wouldn't want to miss it just so save a few grams. But i'm not a weight weenie at all so if you are really concerned about every single gram it's probably not the best option.
Our bikes look like siblings! Lol I bet both our bikes ride similar. I'm putting at least 800w during certain casual sprint segments and I've yet to experience any BB creaking or issues with stiffness. As far as I'm concerned, this bike is rock solid.
Also I do prefer deeper dish wheels, but I have so much climbing in my area, I just opted to get the lightest wheels I could get (at a reasonable price). I notice the performance of these wheels when accelerating on climbs going out of saddle, but for general riding they're not as fast on the flats. I believe I can hold speed better on my 45mm depth wheelset despite being heavier. I swap the wheels every so often just to mix it up.
I also have a lot of climbing in my area. At least 1000 m of elevation per 100 km, most of the time more. And from an objective standpoint a lighter set of wheels would probably the ideal choice but in the end the differences aren't that huge. Overall the bike is still just under 8 kg including pedals so if i struggle on a climb it's definitely not the bike but my legs. I mainly went for the ENT 2.0 in 50 mm because i already had them in 38 mm and really liked them especially for the price. They might not be the lightest wheels out there but probably one of the best when it comes to price to weight and performance ratio and the 50 mm wheels look really good on this frame.
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Climbing in Germany?? Does that mean you're in the Bavarian region, near the Alps? I miss my more-hilly routes from when I lived in San Diego. Mostly short and punchy climbs where I live in Ohio.
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Climbing in Germany?? Does that mean you're in the Bavarian region, near the Alps? I miss my more-hilly routes from when I lived in San Diego. Mostly short and punchy climbs where I live in Ohio.
I see a lot of good climbing in SD. I live near the hilly areas of LA. Most of LA County and the OC is flat and boring! I'd probably just find a different hobby if I didn't have hills! ;D
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Climbing in Germany?? Does that mean you're in the Bavarian region, near the Alps? I miss my more-hilly routes from when I lived in San Diego. Mostly short and punchy climbs where I live in Ohio.
No i live in the taunus area. We don't have the steep and long climbs like in the alpes but a lot of shorter climbs. It's pretty hilly overall. I will be doing the Eschborn-Frankfurt race for example this year which has a route of 103 km and 1500 m of elevation.
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Really do miss all the routes and the variety of riding in SD. Wife insists that we fly back at least once per year (let's just say she doesn't have to twist my arm!) and I make sure to squeeze in a ride. Her hometown, my adopted hometown.
Haven't done any road riding near LA but have done a lot of hiking/backpacking in the San Bernardino, San Jacinto and San Gabriel mtns.
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No i live in the taunus area. We don't have the steep and long climbs like in the alpes but a lot of shorter climbs. It's pretty hilly overall. I will be doing the Eschborn-Frankfurt race for example this year which has a route of 103 km and 1500 m of elevation.
Just wanted to say hi to a neighbour in Taunus. I am following this thread since I am thinking about ordering a 088 frame, mainly thinking about the colour (white with black custom decals probably)…maybe we meet each other in one of our rides or at Eschborn-Frankfurt :) Greetings!
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+1 for Franfurt Eschborn. In which category should we start a thread to meet a the race ?
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+1 for Franfurt Eschborn. In which category should we start a thread to meet a the race ?
Seems like the chinertown community at the race is larger than I expected :D
Probably somewhere in the off-topic area or shoot me a message/mail.
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The more I ride the R088, the more I enjoy the nimbleness of this bike. Mine is near the 6.8kg mark (on my climbing wheels) with full pedals, bottle cages, power meter, etc. I'm quite happy with this build considering it's budget oriented and I haven't even gone hardcore weight weenie. It's closer to 7kg on my cheaper 45mm depth wheelset, though honestly I don't notice a difference when riding.
Which bottle cages did you and Tilmanstoa5ty order? Do they grip the bottles tightly? Asking in case there's a good option on AliExpress.
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Which bottle cages did you and Tilmanstoa5ty order? Do they grip the bottles tightly?
I am using my Canyon bottle cages. They are great quality and hold the bottles tightly but they are expensive. Wouldn't buy them when you can get plastic bottle cages for like 2 dollars on aliexpress. They are also quite heavy (which i don't really care about). I bought them before i knew about the possibility of getting all that amazing cheap stuff from china.
I had some riderace aluminium(?) bottle cages on another bikes which were a lot lighter but didn't hold the bottle as well. I ordered this one as a third bottle cage for the race: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004883648081.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.131.2ac55c5fq5s8S2&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu
I can share my experience with it when i got it and used it.
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Seems like the chinertown community at the race is larger than I expected :D
Probably somewhere in the off-topic area or shoot me a message/mail.
Ditto, better we meet up for the "Feldbergkönig" - Chinertown Community Ride?
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Do you think there would be any issue using integrated bars on the R088? Had ordered TOSEEK bars, that order was auto cancelled, so searching again for a good set.
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Do you think there would be any issue using integrated bars on the R088? Had ordered TOSEEK bars, that order was auto cancelled, so searching again for a good set.
I don’t see how there could be any issues using integrated bars tbh. You just have to replace the steerer tube cover that comes with the frame with the one that comes with the handlebars and you are good to go. Since it’s perfectly round there shouldn’t be any fitting issues.
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Only reason I opted for UD glossy is that my last SPCycle frameset had so-so paint. My other UD glossy frameset seemed to fare better from regular ride wear. I attached a photo they sent me with the frame on the scale.
It seems that my frame is shipping soon--did they send photos of the frame on request or automatically?
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Ditto, better we meet up for the "Feldbergkönig" - Chinertown Community Ride?
Did that last year so happy to do that again this year :)
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Do you think there would be any issue using integrated bars on the R088? Had ordered TOSEEK bars, that order was auto cancelled, so searching again for a good set.
Have you looked at their HB-05 or HB-053 integrated handlebar?
They don't look bad....even though they don't have flare.
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I don't remember if it's already been said: what are the dimensions of the two headset bearings?
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It seems that my frame is shipping soon--did they send photos of the frame on request or automatically?
I requested it in aliexpress chat
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I don't remember if it's already been said: what are the dimensions of the two headset bearings?
Both 52mm.
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Both 52mm.
52mm I guess is the external diameter.....I would also need to know the internal diameter and height, and if they are "flared" or not (internal/external corner).
Thanks
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52mm I guess is the external diameter.....I would also need to know the internal diameter and height, and if they are "flared" or not (internal/external corner).
Thanks
They just seem like the off-the-shelf 52mm headset bearings you can get for any AliEx frameset. ;)
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They just seem like the off-the-shelf 52mm headset bearings you can get for any AliEx frameset. ;)
So these could be ok?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bike-parts-mountain-bike-bicycle-headset-bearing-only-repair-bearings-for-28-6-44mm-30mm-40mm-steel-41-41-8-47-49-52mm?_pos=3&_sid=ca7ecac03&_ss=r
Because I saw that there are some bearings 7mm high, while others 8mm, or the angles change: the ZTTO model of the link has both 45° angles, other models 36°/45°.
Since in the shop where I work we sell SKF bearings, I wanted to know if we have them too.
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So these could be ok?
https://ztto.net/products/ztto-bike-parts-mountain-bike-bicycle-headset-bearing-only-repair-bearings-for-28-6-44mm-30mm-40mm-steel-41-41-8-47-49-52mm?_pos=3&_sid=ca7ecac03&_ss=r
Because I saw that there are some bearings 7mm high, while others 8mm, or the angles change: the ZTTO model of the link has both 45° angles, other models 36°/45°.
Since in the shop where I work we sell SKF bearings, I wanted to know if we have them too.
I asked David (Spcycle) directly for information: R088 uses an outer diameter of 52mm, an inner diameter of 39.8mm, a height of 7mm, and an angle of 45° bearings.
At this point I would say that I am almost ready to place the order, I am just waiting for confirmation from my biomechanic for the frame size and the size for the HB-05 handlebar.
In the end I decided to opt for the raw frame to be painted locally.
David confirmed that he can draw up an Alibaba order for me, in this way I can divide the cost into 3 installments.
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I was hesitating between this and the TT x68, but will most likely go with r088 because of the current sale on Ali. Any recommendations of integrated Bars from Ali as well? Other than hb-05.
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I was hesitating between this and the TT x68, but will most likely go with r088 because of the current sale on Ali. Any recommendations of integrated Bars from Ali as well? Other than hb-05.
Besides the slightly different head tube design, it's practically the same thing as the other SL8 clones with some added features and less weight. At the current sale price + coupons it's practically a no brainer. Unless someone really want a fake SL8 bike! ;D
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Besides the slightly different head tube design, it's practically the same thing as the other SL8 clones with some added features and less weight. At the current sale price + coupons it's practically a no brainer. Unless someone really want a fake SL8 bike! ;D
Thank you for the reply.So I guess the below bar would fit?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtl3kyJ
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Thank you for the reply.So I guess the below bar would fit?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtl3kyJ
Every time I've bought Kocevlo bars they arrive damaged, requiring me to return them. I've had much better luck buying from Balugoe. I've bought mainly their ultra narrow non-integrated bars. Though their latest integrated bar looks quite good. I'd go with these in the sub-$100 USD price point.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808093130044.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808093130044.html)
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Every time I've bought Kocevlo bars they arrive damaged, requiring me to return them. I've had much better luck buying from Balugoe. I've bought mainly their ultra narrow non-integrated bars. Though their latest integrated bar looks quite good. I'd go with these in the sub-$100 USD price point.
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808093130044.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256808093130044.html)
The handlebar you posted looks interesting....but I don't understand if the headset cover is suitable for the R088 frame which has 52mm bearings.
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I was hesitating between this and the TT x68, but will most likely go with r088 because of the current sale on Ali. Any recommendations of integrated Bars from Ali as well? Other than hb-05.
I also looked on Aliexpress, and it actually seems to be the best offer on R088 at the moment (even better than Alibaba).
However, I don't understand the adjustment of the shipping/duty costs (I selected Seller's Shipping Method):
"Price Adjustment - Orders shipped from outside of EU with a goods value above EUR150 will be subject to VAT upon importation into the EU. The price of your order has been adjusted to reflect a later collection of VAT at the customs. You are encouraged to confirm the logistics and tax payment arrangement (for VAT, duties, agent fees, etc.) with the seller."
So there will be some duty/tax to pay, or not?
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I also looked on Aliexpress, and it actually seems to be the best offer on R088 at the moment (even better than Alibaba).
However, I don't understand the adjustment of the shipping/duty costs (I selected Seller's Shipping Method):
"Price Adjustment - Orders shipped from outside of EU with a goods value above EUR150 will be subject to VAT upon importation into the EU. The price of your order has been adjusted to reflect a later collection of VAT at the customs. You are encouraged to confirm the logistics and tax payment arrangement (for VAT, duties, agent fees, etc.) with the seller."
So there will be some duty/tax to pay, or not?
It's like this: You pay for the shipping + prepaid tax (usually about 150-200EUR). When you check-out the VAT will be deducted. You will not have to pay extra tax or VAT (if all goes well).
Can you share the link so we can check?
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So it seems that a SL8 handlebar won't do on the frame since they come with shaped headset cover. We absolutely need round headset cover with our frames (like the one that comes with kocevlo). Is that correct?
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So it seems that a SL8 handlebar won't do on the frame since they come with shaped headset cover. We absolutely need round headset cover with our frames (like the one that comes with kocevlo). Is that correct?
The Ritchey Comp Switch headset cover should work.
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It's like this: You pay for the shipping + prepaid tax (usually about 150-200EUR). When you check-out the VAT will be deducted. You will not have to pay extra tax or VAT (if all goes well).
Can you share the link so we can check?
I attach a screenshot.
I tried asking David (Spcycle) about it, and his response was:
"If you choose the seller shipping method, we will use DPD shipping to deliver the frame to your address. You do not need to clear customs and pay any customs fees".
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So it seems that a SL8 handlebar won't do on the frame since they come with shaped headset cover. We absolutely need round headset cover with our frames (like the one that comes with kocevlo). Is that correct?
I don't want to be wrong, but in my opinion you can mount any handlebar on R088, even the SL8 one....but probably not the original headset cover.
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I attach a screenshot.
I tried asking David (Spcycle) about it, and his response was:
"If you choose the seller shipping method, we will use DPD shipping to deliver the frame to your address. You do not need to clear customs and pay any customs fees".
Sorry to ask....do you think I can proceed without the risk of finding myself paying something?
I'm not very familiar with shopping on Aliexpress, and it would be the first time I've bought items over €150.
Thanks
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Sorry to ask....do you think I can proceed without the risk of finding myself paying something?
I'm not very familiar with shopping on Aliexpress, and it would be the first time I've bought items over €150.
Thanks
I am in Italy and I have bought G058 gravel frameset last year; choosing seller shipping method (about 140 euro) I have received frameset without paying extra cost
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I am in Italy and I have bought G058 gravel frameset last year; choosing seller shipping method (about 140 euro) I have received frameset without paying extra cost
Ciao!
Visto che sei italiano posso scriverti per chiederti alcune info sul telaio?
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I am in Italy and I have bought G058 gravel frameset last year; choosing seller shipping method (about 140 euro) I have received frameset without paying extra cost
The doubt came to me because with the Aliexpress "price adjustment" the DPD shipment would cost the same as a standard shipment (without prepaid duties)....from what they wrote (see attachment), I understand that they "adjusted" the shipping cost and the VAT will have to be collected at customs, so in the end the final cost will be higher than the price of the order.
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I don't want to be wrong, but in my opinion you can mount any handlebar on R088, even the SL8 one....but probably not the original headset cover.
I am pretty sure that the headset cover that comes with the handlebar needs to be round. It's also the part that attaches to the stem spacers
The elita one sl8 on Ali seems to be coming with 2 different covers. I am waiting for better pictures from the seller.
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The doubt came to me because with the Aliexpress "price adjustment" the DPD shipment would cost the same as a standard shipment (without prepaid duties)....from what they wrote (see attachment), I understand that they "adjusted" the shipping cost and the VAT will have to be collected at customs, so in the end the final cost will be higher than the price of the order.
The price adjustment is due to EU forcing Ali etc to pay VAT for products below 150€. Above 150€ VAT is displayed in the offer, but will be deducted later ("price adjustment"). For the products above 150€ customs and VAT would have to be paid by customer.
With sellers shipping method the seller takes care of customs and VAT. Hence the higher price for the shipment
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I have a question to all other buyers of this frame: Did yours come with a crown race? Mine didn't come with one. So i asked spcycle on aliexpress and they told me the fork doesn't require a crown race and i installed the bearing directly on to the fork. Did you have the same experience?
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The price adjustment is due to EU forcing Ali etc to pay VAT for products below 150€. Above 150€ VAT is displayed in the offer, but will be deducted later ("price adjustment"). For the products above 150€ customs and VAT would have to be paid by customer.
With sellers shipping method the seller takes care of customs and VAT. Hence the higher price for the shipment
Thanks for the reply, this is the answer I received on an Italian forum that cleared up all my doubts: "by choosing shipping with prepaid duties, the Aliexpress price is the final price, you will not pay anything else. The package does not pass through Italian customs, but is cleared abroad (Belgium, Holland or even in other countries) and delivered to the courier who transports it to the final destination. The courier who transports from China to Europe takes care of customs clearance.
If the price on Aliexpress is higher than 150 euros (in reality it reaches about 170/180 euros) and the shipping is the standard Aliexpress, the package is cleared in Italy and, in this case, VAT is applied together with duties and postal charges."
At this point I have no choice but to take advantage of the Aliexpress discounts and order the frame.
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I clicked the button... :D
What do you think of this handlebar?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006453962015.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
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I clicked the button... :D
Congrats! We look forward to your build in the next 1-2 months! ;D ;)
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I am pretty sure that the headset cover that comes with the handlebar needs to be round. It's also the part that attaches to the stem spacers
The elita one sl8 on Ali seems to be coming with 2 different covers. I am waiting for better pictures from the seller.
Yes, the base of the headset cover must be round, but the spacers can also be shaped, and (if it matches well) you can fit any handlebar.
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Congrats! We look forward to your build in the next 1-2 months! ;D ;)
Exactly! Estimated delivery date: May 26, 2025! ;D
That's fine...I'm in no hurry, and then I'll also have to have it painted! ;D
However, It's also your feedback's fault! ;)
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I clicked the button... :D
What do you think of this handlebar?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006453962015.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
I don't know anything about these bars but i would highly recommend to only buy an integrated cockpit when you figured out your fit 100%. Alloy stem and bars (UNO for the win) on Aliexpress are very affordable and you can easily change them when you aren't happy with your fit. Once you are happy you can still upgrade.
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I am very tempted by this frame during the current Aliexpress sale. Been following this thread and the TanTan X68 with interest.
What is the primary difference between the 2 frames? Are they identical except this frame has UDH? TanTan also comes with handlebar. Are there any other differences at all? Is the build quality comparable? Thanks
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I am very tempted by this frame during the current Aliexpress sale. Been following this thread and the TanTan X68 with interest.
What is the primary difference between the 2 frames? Are they identical except this frame has UDH? TanTan also comes with handlebar. Are there any other differences at all? Is the build quality comparable? Thanks
This one has UDH and is supposedly EPS molded in one piece versus having the front and rear frames being bonded later
This one doesn't have the head tube "sniffer" that the X68 does.
You can get this one with a handlebar but you don't have to
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This one has UDH and is supposedly EPS molded in one piece versus having the front and rear frames being bonded later
What's your source as to the nature of the x68 build?
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What's your source as to the nature of the x68 build?
I asked Tantan/seraph if it was one piece molded and they said no.
The two halves are EPS molded and then bonded together
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I asked Tantan/seraph if it was one piece molded and they said no.
The two halves are EPS molded and then bonded together
Do we know for sure that the R088 is one piece EPS molded? Also, pardon my ignorance but is there a drawback to the way TanTan does it?
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Do we know for sure that the R088 is one piece EPS molded? Also, pardon my ignorance but is there a drawback to the way TanTan does it?
I asked SPCycle to clarify if it's one piece again, I'll report back when they answer.
There is nothing inherently wrong with how Tantan does it. They do it the same way specialized does it on the tarmac
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I rebuilt my older aero'ish SPCycle R027D framesets from storage and while it's heavier built up (7.5kg vs 6.84kg), it's definitely a much faster bike. Unless steep climbing is a factor in daily riding, I wouldn't be so caught up in bike weights and modern layup techniques. Some of these older non-EPS carbon bikes are built tough and stiff.
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I rebuilt my older aero'ish SPCycle R027D framesets from storage and while it's heavier built up (7.5kg vs 6.84kg), it's definitely a much faster bike. Unless steep climbing is a factor in daily riding, I wouldn't be so caught up in bike weights and modern layup techniques. Some of these older non-EPS carbon bikes are built tough and stiff.
Have you compared with the same equipments ans watts ?
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Have you compared with the same equipments ans watts ?
I can't really compare the two, since I built them differently. My SPCycle R027D is geared higher and slammed, while my R088 is built with shallow depth wheels, more relaxed fit and lower gearing. I can maintain faster speeds with R027D on the flats, while on the R088 I can climb more effortlessly. ;)
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I don't know anything about these bars but i would highly recommend to only buy an integrated cockpit when you figured out your fit 100%. Alloy stem and bars (UNO for the win) on Aliexpress are very affordable and you can easily change them when you aren't happy with your fit. Once you are happy you can still upgrade.
On an Italian forum I found a couple of reviews where they speak really well of it.
The geometry and ergonomics of the curve are the same/very similar to those of the Deda Superleggera handlebar that I mount on my Cervél R3 rim brake....so (theoretically) I should be fine.
Let's say that the only doubt I have is about the length of the stem....my biomechanic recommends a 100mm size because the Sram Force AXS controls are deeper than those of the Force22 that I use now....but I'm not entirely convinced, I would perhaps stay with the 110mm size that I have always used.
However, if I were to do some tests, I would already have a Deda handlebar and stem (110mm) at home....I could eventually temporarily mount those, or a cheaper integrated stem....we'll see.
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Thank you for the reply.So I guess the below bar would fit?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtl3kyJ
This handlebar looks the same as the Kocevlo you posted.... ::)
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006840212282.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
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Congrats! We look forward to your build in the next 1-2 months! ;D ;)
I received notification that the frame has already been shipped.....it should arrive April 8th! :o
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This handlebar looks the same as the Kocevlo you posted.... ::)
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006840212282.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
Yes it seems to be the exact same. I ended up buying the SL8 copy from elita one. They sent pictures of the headset covers and one of them is round. It should fit the r088.
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Yes it seems to be the exact same. I ended up buying the SL8 copy from elita one. They sent pictures of the headset covers and one of them is round. It should fit the r088.
Do you mean this?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005008532877659.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
When should it arrive?
Thanks
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Anyone have any experience with paint jobs from Spcycle other than the UD glossy/matte coatings? All the pics i have seen have been UD coatings.
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Anyone have any experience with paint jobs from Spcycle other than the UD glossy/matte coatings? All the pics i have seen have been UD coatings.
I've got a chameleon blue G068 (it's in the thread for that bike) - paint job is decent for a Chinese frame, have hit it with plenty of small rocks and it holds up. I'd probably avoid asking for something too complex but for single colour they seem to do a good job.
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Just received my R088 frame in 54cm glossy white. Posting some quick photos and endoscope videos here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1JnJcrHzEh62a4GEEwX-8fOxjtJnpLhWW?usp=sharing
By no means a frame expert but everything looks solid to me. If you spot anything that I missed, let me know! And also if there are any common frame defects to look for.
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Okay I guess I was wrong. The rear thru axle supplied with my R088 does not fit properly. ::) I only noticed it when swapping wheelsets. At first I thought it was an issue with the rear wheel freehub I was using, but it's the actual thru axle. The one supplied by SPCycle is 167.5mm long, and I swapped it for a 168mm 1.0p thru axle using a thicker conical shaped washer. Once swapped the whole rear assembly was much stiffer. The rear TA supplied by SPCycle had play in the wheel.
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Just received my R088 frame in 54cm glossy white.
Looks great! Also very nice weight-wise, was not expecting it to be this light with such paintjob. ;D
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Anyone tried to fit a mechanical yet? I either buy LTwoo r9 now or wait for er9 to be back in stock with 80 designer store on Ali. I live in Canada and they are the only store shipping to us with reasonable price.
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Anyone tried to fit a mechanical yet? I either buy LTwoo r9 now or wait for er9 to be back in stock with 80 designer store on Ali. I live in Canada and they are the only store shipping to us with reasonable price.
It's doable, but I can imagine it wouldn't be much fun to deal with especially with the headset. I'd rather run 1x or just wait for eR9 groupsets to be back in-stock.
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Anyone have any experience with paint jobs from Spcycle other than the UD glossy/matte coatings? All the pics i have seen have been UD coatings.
When in doubt, I preferred to order the raw frame and paint it locally....I will spend more than their painting but, in addition to being able to choose the color and graphics, I will have the certainty of a perfect job.
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Okay I guess I was wrong. The rear thru axle supplied with my R088 does not fit properly. ::) I only noticed it when swapping wheelsets. At first I thought it was an issue with the rear wheel freehub I was using, but it's the actual thru axle. The one supplied by SPCycle is 167.5mm long, and I swapped it for a 168mm 1.0p thru axle using a thicker conical shaped washer. Once swapped the whole rear assembly was much stiffer. The rear TA supplied by SPCycle had play in the wheel.
Was your rear thru axle identical to this one? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LD65PxCbt3o6ozryHz9ngNHF48U9xmGN/view?usp=drivesdk
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Was your rear thru axle identical to this one? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LD65PxCbt3o6ozryHz9ngNHF48U9xmGN/view?usp=drivesdk
Yes the same one. I'm not sure why I didn't catch it earlier, but after trying two different wheelsets I realized there was slight play. I swapped it with a 168mm M12x19L TA with a slightly thicker conical washer. This one locked my rear wheel tightly.
Here's a link to the exact one I purchased off US Amazon. Should also be AliEx:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWDCCPWQ (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWDCCPWQ)
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SPCycle got back to me and told me the thru axle is fine, just add washers! I initially tried adding a thicker washer/spacer to the SPcycle supplied thru axle and there was still play with the wheel. It was only when I tried a thru axle that was .5mm longer is when everything tightened up properly. Minimal customer service effort from @spcycle. ::)
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SPCycle got back to me and told me the thru axle is fine, just add washers! I initially tried adding a thicker washer/spacer to the SPcycle supplied thru axle and there was still play with the wheel. It was only when I tried a thru axle that was .5mm longer is when everything tightened up properly. Minimal customer service effort from @spcycle. ::)
No good! :(
Did you only have the problem with the rear thru axle?
Do you think I can already get a different one?
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SPCycle got back to me and told me the thru axle is fine, just add washers! I initially tried adding a thicker washer/spacer to the SPcycle supplied thru axle and there was still play with the wheel. It was only when I tried a thru axle that was .5mm longer is when everything tightened up properly. Minimal customer service effort from @spcycle. ::)
It's not the length of the axle that is the problem, but the length of the thread. Looks like the original has only 15mm of thread and the new one has 19mm of thread. So that would mean the original runs out of thread before the wheel is tight...
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SPCycle got back to me and told me the thru axle is fine, just add washers! I initially tried adding a thicker washer/spacer to the SPcycle supplied thru axle and there was still play with the wheel. It was only when I tried a thru axle that was .5mm longer is when everything tightened up properly. Minimal customer service effort from @spcycle. ::)
Seems like tidydinosaur might be right and that spcycle should send a replacement part...
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Seems like tidydinosaur might be right and that spcycle should send a replacement part...
Well, considering the price of an axle I would not bother and just get one myself. Or get a thicker washer...
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Well, considering the price of an axle I would not bother and just get one myself. Or get a thicker washer...
Ok, a thru axle won't cost a fortune, but if there's a widespread problem with a component that comes with the frame, then the manufacturer should fix it.
It would be interesting to see if other users who received the frame have had the same problem, or if this is an isolated case.
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Haven't had time to start my build yet. Will have to check mine for the same issue. If it's an issue of too short threads, then a thicker or extra washer shouldn't be able to remedy it.
@jonathan-- it's not an issue of it not being up to torque spec, is it? Or, I wonder if the UDH adds width and makes extra threading necessary to engage the frame securely.
Part of me does think it's better to swap for the quick release style TAs anyway for ease of flat change on the road.
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I talked to SPcycle last night on AliEx messenging (well night for me) and they told that they are supplying multiple washers on current frames. They have already updated the frameset mold on newer frames to have a flat/flush hole instead. Anyways, I did try adding a thicker washer on the original thru axle, which did not work. It could indeed be an issue with not enough thread.
Also it is not a torque issue, the only reason I even noticed this issue was due to finding out I had play on the freehub of my second wheelset. It was driving me crazy, making me think it was the freehub and not the frameset! I also have other frames to compare with, so I was able to compare the bikes to see that it was indeed an issue with the R088 thru axle.
I've informed SPCycle that I'm relaying all the information from our chat on this thread. So hopefully they'll be a bit more attentive. I've attached the photos they've provided in regards to washers and the modified mold.
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I totally forgot @Sdfrt had this issue awhile back and used 2 washers to fix the problem:
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5562.msg75160.html#msg75160 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5562.msg75160.html#msg75160)
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Two washers did not solve the problem completely, but it was a little better. Spcycle compensated for the cost of a new thru axle, but it also does not fit. The axle is not compatible with the washers. The axle is 165 mm and the thread is slightly longer, the wheel is loose.
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So what is the best option here for us R088 owners--a 168mm TA with 19mm thread length? And spcycle will compensate that cost if we need one to get a proper fit?
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12x168mm 19L 1.0P thru axles seem like the best option that I've seen so far. 15mm thread length is too short. I even tried a 160mm TA with 19L and that even locked the wheel in-place. I think SPcycle didn't properly think things through when they adapted the SL8 knock-off frame swapping the RD hanger to UDH. ::)
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12x168mm 19L 1.0P thru axles seem like the best option that I've seen so far. 15mm thread length is too short. I even tried a 160mm TA with 19L and that even locked the wheel in-place. I think SPcycle didn't properly think things through when they adapted the SL8 knock-off frame swapping the RD hanger to UDH. ::)
Where we can get one? I was thinking of taking advantage of the alix discounts to buy the R088 frame, so that would be super useful :)
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Where we can get one? I was thinking of taking advantage of the alix discounts to buy the R088 frame, so that would be super useful :)
Jonathan has an Amazon link about ten messages above. But ali has some too
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Is this only a problem on older frames? Because mine is fairly new and i don't seem to have any problems. There's no play on the rear wheel. Or i might need to check again
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Just bought it! Can't wait for it to arrive, it was a very hard decision, too many choices rn
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Is this only a problem on older frames? Because mine is fairly new and i don't seem to have any problems. There's no play on the rear wheel. Or i might need to check again
Check your frame, it's possible you have a flat thru axle non-drive side hole. Mine and a few of us early adopters have the older TA hole which requires the conical washer/spacer.
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Check your frame, it's possible you have a flat thru axle non-drive side hole. Mine and a few of us early adopters have the older TA hole which requires the conical washer/spacer.
Mine also uses conical spacers but with the spacers in place there doesn’t seem to be any play. I can measure the thread length of my thru axle to compare it with yours.
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I talked to SPcycle last night on AliEx messenging (well night for me) and they told that they are supplying multiple washers on current frames. They have already updated the frameset mold on newer frames to have a flat/flush hole instead. Anyways, I did try adding a thicker washer on the original thru axle, which did not work. It could indeed be an issue with not enough thread.
Also it is not a torque issue, the only reason I even noticed this issue was due to finding out I had play on the freehub of my second wheelset. It was driving me crazy, making me think it was the freehub and not the frameset! I also have other frames to compare with, so I was able to compare the bikes to see that it was indeed an issue with the R088 thru axle.
I've informed SPCycle that I'm relaying all the information from our chat on this thread. So hopefully they'll be a bit more attentive. I've attached the photos they've provided in regards to washers and the modified mold.
Does the photo detailing the modification concern the external or internal part of the frame?
Later I will try to submit the matter to David to understand if my frame (shipped on March 24) already has the modification you are talking about.
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12x168mm 19L 1.0P thru axles seem like the best option that I've seen so far. 15mm thread length is too short. I even tried a 160mm TA with 19L and that even locked the wheel in-place. I think SPcycle didn't properly think things through when they adapted the SL8 knock-off frame swapping the RD hanger to UDH. ::)
I tried to search, but I'm having trouble finding 168mm long thru axles with 19mm thread....found instead with 15-16mm thread.
Do you think it could work just as well?
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I tried to search, but I'm having trouble finding 168mm long thru axles with 19mm thread....found instead with 15-16mm thread.
Do you think it could work just as well?
This is the first item that popped up for me on an AliEx search. The 168mm 19mm thread 1.0p thru axle is listed on there. ;)
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806777142794.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806777142794.html)
The quick release version is listed here:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805934980255.html (https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805934980255.html)
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Mine also uses conical spacers but with the spacers in place there doesn’t seem to be any play. I can measure the thread length of my thru axle to compare it with yours.
How many spacers did you receive, my frame only came with 1 spacer. Just to confirm, you received the 167.5mm 15mm thread thru axle?
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Received three conical spacers with my frame, used one on the rear wheel. Rear wheel seems secure on the stand, but let's see when I eventually get on the road.
Did you guys have to file out more of the exit hole for the front brake cable on the fork? I'm using the LTWOO ER9 group; unsure if other brands use different hose diameters. *Edit*: eventually got it through with some filing and probably most importantly some lube.
Waiting on cable routing kit and brake bleed kit to really go any further. Didn't have the forethought to order those when I ordered the frame. You'll have to excuse this luddite cyclist having come from rim brakes and external cables.
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What bottom brackets did you guys fit to your R088s? Been a long time since I used a BSA style, but when I thread this one on it leaves a gap between the plastic conical insert and the right side cup/bearing.
Can't remember if that is normal or if that piece is meant to be flush with both cups when they're screwed in. Can anyone weigh in?
This is the BB I ordered: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807448820970.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.7a2e1802U3zjJY&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Color: A-BSA-24(68 73MM)
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Received three conical spacers with my frame, used one on the rear wheel. Rear wheel seems secure on the stand, but let's see when I eventually get on the road.
Did you guys have to file out more of the exit hole for the front brake cable on the fork? I'm using the LTWOO ER9 group; unsure if other brands use different hose diameters. *Edit*: eventually got it through with some filing and probably most importantly some lube.
Waiting on cable routing kit and brake bleed kit to really go any further. Didn't have the forethought to order those when I ordered the frame. You'll have to excuse this luddite cyclist having come from rim brakes and external cables.
Hi,
can I ask you about the rim depth?
For my R088 (which should arrive on April 8th) I ordered a set of Tagoola wheels a few days ago taking advantage of the Aliexpress discounts (they look identical to the Yishun Bike wheels), but I still have to decide on the depth: 50+50, 50+60 or 60+60....difficult choice (now I use 50+55 rim brake wheels)!
Which cable routing kit did you buy?
I was thinking of getting this one:
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006015129964.html?sourceType=1&spm=a2g0o.wish-manage-home.0.0&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
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What bottom brackets did you guys fit to your R088s? Been a long time since I used a BSA style, but when I thread this one on it leaves a gap between the plastic conical insert and the right side cup/bearing.
Can't remember if that is normal or if that piece is meant to be flush with both cups when they're screwed in. Can anyone weigh in?
This is the BB I ordered: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807448820970.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.7a2e1802U3zjJY&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa Color: A-BSA-24(68 73MM)
Unfortunately I can't help you...it will be my first time setting up a frame by myself! ;D
As a bottom bracket I ordered this (ceramic with tool):
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/32899863422.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.2e003696Veb5IW&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
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I got the Elitewheels ENT disc 2.0 in 50 mm depth. First pair of disc wheels outside of a mtb for me and the extra work over rim brakes really makes me long for rim brakes a bit.
I got the same cable routing kit. I'd double check your BB though, looks like those are all BB30, same type as on my Cannondale (they developed it). Press-fit types like BB30 look much cleaner on the bike, but require special tools to press in both sides simultaneously and care that you don't seat them at an angle and ruin your frame. BSA are super easy to service--make sure you get the specific wrench to install. I've had mine since my previous road bike of about 15 years ago, an old Kestrel RT800. That bike had a lot of the same aero design elements of a lot of the modern aero bikes.
R088 uses the threaded Shimano style BSA BB in 68mm width. This article should help: https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/the-complete-guide-to-bottom-bracket-standards
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I got the Elitewheels ENT disc 2.0 in 50 mm depth. First pair of disc wheels outside of a mtb for me and the extra work over rim brakes really makes me long for rim brakes a bit.
I got the same cable routing kit. I'd double check your BB though, looks like those are all BB30, same type as on my Cannondale (they developed it). Press-fit types like BB30 look much cleaner on the bike, but require special tools to press in both sides simultaneously and care that you don't seat them at an angle and ruin your frame. BSA are super easy to service--make sure you get the specific wrench to install. I've had mine since my previous road bike of about 15 years ago, an old Kestrel RT800. That bike had a lot of the same aero design elements of a lot of the modern aero bikes.
R088 uses the threaded Shimano style BSA 24mm BB in 68mm width. This article should help: https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/the-complete-guide-to-bottom-bracket-standards
The BB ZTTO should be fine in my case....I want to reuse the Quarq crankset (30mm diameter axle and 86mm length) with PM DZero that I mount on the current bike.
The BB also includes the tightening key.
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Second look--I did miss that those are threaded 30mm, not press. Early morning here, just woke up and eyes weren't working right just yet. My bad...
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I got the Elitewheels ENT disc 2.0 in 50 mm depth. First pair of disc wheels outside of a mtb for me and the extra work over rim brakes really makes me long for rim brakes a bit.
Have you ridden them yet? I have the same ones and they feel very sensitive in crosswinds. Since these are my first 50 mm wheels i'm not sure if that's normal for that kind of depth or if these wheels in particular are sketchy in crosswinds.
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How many spacers did you receive, my frame only came with 1 spacer. Just to confirm, you received the 167.5mm 15mm thread thru axle?
Mine came with two spacers. The axle is 167,5 mm with 15 mm threads. What's interesting though is the fact that there are thread marks on the non threaded area of the axle. It's probably the thread of the UDH.
(https://i.imgur.com/XrYAjEc.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WKKF49k.jpeg)
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For bottom brackets, I just keep it simple and use an Ultegra BBR60 since they weigh less than 70g.
My R088 only came with 1 spacer. So perhaps the 2 spacers may work. SPCycle said they are sending me extra spacers so we'll see if that will work with the stock thru axle. Though I prefer using the quick release TA, so I may just stick with that.
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Question for any that might have asked SP. Any idea of the max rider weight limit on this bike? I asked about the R065 and it is 105kg. Pretty Low for a frame IMO.
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I have a buddy who weighs around 109kg/240lbs. There's just no way I'd fit him on a bike like the R088. He'd probably be better off on a more sturdier endurance style frameset.
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I have a buddy who weighs around 109kg/240lbs. There's just no way I'd fit him on a bike like R088. He'd probably be better off on a more sturdier endurance style frameset.
Tend to agree. I am 100kg and that just seems like a risk.
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Yes it seems to be the exact same. I ended up buying the SL8 copy from elita one. They sent pictures of the headset covers and one of them is round. It should fit the r088.
Hi, let me know when you have the handlebars in your hands, I need to ask you some questions.
Thanks
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Tend to agree. I am 100kg and that just seems like a risk.
Some guys on here are using the Ceccotti/SPCycle RF25/G056 gravel frame more as an endurance road bike. That's what I'm using for gravel, but lately I've been using it as an all-arounder with 32 semi-slicks. It actually makes for a sturdy road setup. It's a bit heavier, but that 1-2kg over my R088 won't make a difference trying to sprint up a hill for a cyclist who weighs over 100kg!
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Hi, let me know when you have the handlebars in your hands, I need to ask you some questions.
Thanks
Well the seller cancelled the order. I ordered the balugoe one
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Well the seller cancelled the order. I ordered the balugoe one
Was the seller Elita One? Why did they cancel the order?
Is this the handlebar you ordered?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005008269422916.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.27.23a9DkPHDkPHv0&algo_pvid=3844c90f-388b-4dce-965b-17bbd7b41872&algo_exp_id=3844c90f-388b-4dce-965b-17bbd7b41872-13&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%229%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21118.59%2193.69%21%21%21125.03%2198.78%21%40211b813f17433406006452891ed619%2112000044430962099%21sea%21IT%214842187332%21X&curPageLogUid=028AF35F8pTS&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
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Was the seller Elita One? Why did they cancel the order?
Is this the handlebar you ordered?
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005008269422916.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.27.23a9DkPHDkPHv0&algo_pvid=3844c90f-388b-4dce-965b-17bbd7b41872&algo_exp_id=3844c90f-388b-4dce-965b-17bbd7b41872-13&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%229%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%7D&pdp_npi=4%40dis%21EUR%21118.59%2193.69%21%21%21125.03%2198.78%21%40211b813f17433406006452891ed619%2112000044430962099%21sea%21IT%214842187332%21X&curPageLogUid=028AF35F8pTS&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch%7Cquery_from%3A
Yes, that's the one. The seller mentioned shipping size restrictions to Canada and he could not find a way around.
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Just an information, after how many days did they ship the frame purchased from aliexpress? :)
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Just an information, after how many days did they ship the frame purchased from aliexpress? :)
I ordered on january 27th and it was shipped (via dpd to germany) on february 15th. Arrived on february 27th. There was chinese new year between ordering and shipping so i'm not sure if that slowed things down or not but in my opinion everything went pretty fast. I didn't choose a complicated paintjob though. Just glossy clearcoat.
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Anyone else find that the fork has a gap with the headtube with the lower race installed?
Without the bottom race the fork seems to rotate smoothly. Not sure if long term it would rub off the paint at the interface and becomes rougher, the paint being possibly the only thing making it a smooth turn.
Third photo is without the metal race. The steerer tube is definitely sloped at the fork--perhaps this is meant as an integrated crown race and they just included the separate metal race anyway?
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Anyone else find that the fork has a gap with the headtube with the lower race installed?
I have no experience with this frame, but from your photos it seems that a spacer ring is not needed for this fork, since the fork already has the necessary bearing support.
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The crown race isn't needed on the R088. I have a few frame forks like this, so it's not a big issue.
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Having problems getting seatpost+LTWOO battery with holder inserted into seat tube. It's too tight, I think because of the extra bulk of the plastic holder.
Also using tape to keep it all together. Not sure why LTWOO doesn't use lock-by-turn plugs so that they don't fall out when pulling out. Also the SPcycle holder is too small for the LTWOO battery at least--bulges and barely stays in on its own, thus the tape.
May have to eventually just drop the battery down, maybe put a hook on it so I can fish it out later when needed.
SP's is same design as this, but perhaps smaller inner diameter: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806263308565.html?srcSns=sns_Copy&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=61037813780&aff_fcid=4350288e93874124bdb22eeb346858b1-1743382845315-08905-_EIdKITI&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_EIdKITI&aff_platform=default&sk=_EIdKITI&aff_trace_key=4350288e93874124bdb22eeb346858b1-1743382845315-08905-_EIdKITI&shareId=61037813780&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=aa57a25db6e94e51a95f1e5c026e8ccb&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
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Having problems getting seatpost+LTWOO battery with holder inserted into seat tube. It's too tight, I think because of the extra bulk of the plastic holder.
Also using tape to keep it all together. Not sure why LTWOO doesn't use lock-by-turn plugs so that they don't fall out when pulling out. Also the SPcycle holder is too small for the LTWOO battery at least--bulges and barely stays in on its own, thus the tape.
May have to eventually just drop the battery down, maybe put a hook on it so I can fish it out later when needed.
SP's is same design as this, but perhaps smaller inner diameter: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806263308565.html?srcSns=sns_Copy&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=61037813780&aff_fcid=4350288e93874124bdb22eeb346858b1-1743382845315-08905-_EIdKITI&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_EIdKITI&aff_platform=default&sk=_EIdKITI&aff_trace_key=4350288e93874124bdb22eeb346858b1-1743382845315-08905-_EIdKITI&shareId=61037813780&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=aa57a25db6e94e51a95f1e5c026e8ccb&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt
Feel free to read some of my earlier posts on this thread in regards to using the ER9 and fitting the battery holder in the R088. My solution was tying 2 long pieces of ribbon string on each end of the ER9 battery holder. Using ribbon string works the best because it stay buoyant with the string sliding straight into the seat post when set in place. I also used the mechanical hole for the FD battery cable since it was easier to position the cables towards the bottom bracket making it easier to fish out the battery from the seat tube for any maintenance issues. It was also necessary to trim the seat post a few centimeters to fit both the seat post and ER9 battery at least for my size 52cm frame. The seat tube is snug enough that the battery doesn't move, my seat post is at the right height and the battery can be pulled out easily with no problems.
Private message me if you need any help! ;)
FYI - This is the message I wrote for the DEFINITIVE way to fit an ER9 battery into the R088 frameset!
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5562.msg72347.html#msg72347 (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,5562.msg72347.html#msg72347)
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Anyone else find that the fork has a gap with the headtube with the lower race installed?
Without the bottom race the fork seems to rotate smoothly. Not sure if long term it would rub off the paint at the interface and becomes rougher, the paint being possibly the only thing making it a smooth turn.
Third photo is without the metal race. The steerer tube is definitely sloped at the fork--perhaps this is meant as an integrated crown race and they just included the separate metal race anyway?
I have confirmed with spcycle that you don't need a crown race on this fork. Mine didn't even come with one. Mentioned it somewhere earlier in the thread.
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Have been eying this frame and just ordered it. Pearl White in 58. Still debating about the other parts. Might opt for DI2 105. Or mechanical Ultegra.
I hope I won't regret it. My last China build was over 15 years ago and the frame gave me a lot of problems..