See likes

See likes given/taken


Your posts liked by others

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6
Post info No. of Likes
Re: Custom Waltly Titanium 29er I've emailed some pictures to Waltly and they have been very responsive. They have offered a discount on a new frame rather than shipping this one back but I haven't been told what that discount will be yet. My wife does want a gravel bike to replace her Trek Domane so I'll have to see what my options are. I'm just happy that Waltly isn't ghosting me and they are trying to come up with a solution. Much better than some of the horror stories on here of various carbon vendors.
March 31, 2023, 09:26:31 AM
6
Re: Spcycle M016 hardtail frame builds Little hiccup in the build process. Shimano Deore M6000 calipers will not work on the back end. I’ll order up some ZTTO banjo bolt kits and swap the caliper with some XT calipers that’s on another bike.


April 01, 2023, 01:53:09 PM
2
Re: Spcycle M016 hardtail frame builds Any caliper that has a banjo bolt and doesn’t have that obnoxious bleed port of the cheaper Deore M6000 calipers would be recommended. M7000, M8000, M9020 would all work fine. The newer Deore M6100 should work as well as they seam to have moved the bleep port.

I put XTR Race M9100 brakes on mine and while it works fine, a caliper with a banjo bolt would be preferred due to the hose exit hole location on the chainstay. I found a spare XTR M9020 caliper that I forgot I had and that fits perfect so that will be the replacement.

April 08, 2023, 08:50:06 PM
1
Re: Spcycle M016 hardtail frame builds
Thanks for the photo : I'm looking at this frame as my next single speed. Is there a model of rear caliper (eg Shimano M8000) that you'd recommend?

What’s your plan for tensioning the chain?

Another thing to note about this frame is that non-boost cranks will not work. I have a SRAM carbon GXP crank with a non-boost (6mm offset) chainring and it hits the chainstay. I’ve had this same crank on other boost frames without an issue but not this one. Definitely not a deal breaker but something to be aware of if using parts from a donor bike.

April 09, 2023, 07:34:20 AM
1
Re: Spcycle M016 hardtail frame builds
1) The Phil Wood eccentric bottom bracket looks like the most bulletproof choice, but when I add up the $250 for the bottom bracket plus the $85 tool it makes a cheap frame kinda expensive  :)

2) There is a similar product for about half the price, I don't know if you have any opinions on this? https://www.firstcomponents.com/bottom-brackets/eccentric/p237sa/ . It does look like the design has a higher risk of the set screws slipping , or stripping of the threads, but I'm no expert. The technical drawing also shows it accepts a spindle diameter of 22/24mm, which I think is GXP, and I'm not sure there's a boost option.

3) How time consuming is it to change tension with the Phil Wood EBB?

1) I've had the Philcentric BB for maybe 7 years now so I've already absorbed the cost. It was cheaper back then too. It's definitely a quality product. I ordered it through my local shop and they bought the tools for them to keep at the shop so it didn't sting so bad. This will be the third frame it's going on and it's nice knowing that I can make any BSA frame into a single speed without much work.

2) The First Component EBB looks like a winner as well. My concern, like yours, would be how well those set screws hold. If you can drill and tap things yourself, adding a couple extra set screws could be an option if they tend to slip.

3) Honestly, I've only done it once so I'm a bit vague on it. Normally the shop does it for me as I feel bad asking to borrow tools, especially to work on a frame that I did not buy from them. I don't remember it being that bad, just takes a bit of trial and error. After the initial install of the cups, I'd think you could change gearing and tension in an hour or two including the time it takes to change the cog.

April 10, 2023, 09:02:45 AM
1
Re: Spcycle M016 hardtail frame builds I've finished building up the frame and hope to bring it out on it's first ride this weekend when things dry out a bit. There's two things that I wish I had known before ordering this frame.

1) the frame requires a crank with a 55mm chainline and is not advertised as such. This would be fine if I was purchasing a new crankset. Since I was using an existing SRAM X0 GXP crank, I had to get a new chainring with a 0mm offset to get the required chainline. Even with the 0mm offset ring, the clearance is tight with a 32t ring. More on that in item 2. For my daughters frame, I was planning on using an existing 3x SRAM Stylo GXP crank. It's a 1x drivetrain so I was able to put the ring in the large ring position which is roughly a 56mm or 57mm chainline. This set up has plenty of chain ring to frame clearance with a 32t ring. There was no chain jumping while back-pedaling in the large cog so all appears to be good.

2) a 32 tooth ring is probably the max that will fit comfortably. If you don't plan on going bigger than a 32t ring, or a 30t oval ring, you should be fine. I don't have an oval 30t to test fit so I can't say if that would fit or not. This is more of an issue for me as I'm trying to run the Philcentric EBB. A 0mm offset 32t ring still will not work when the EBB is in the aft most position. This will limit the amount of adjustment I have when getting the chain tension correct. Everything went together fine with the 32t / 18t gearing and the EBB has the spindle in the lower forward position. I could not get the 32t / 20t combo to fit but that is partially due to the limited adjustability of the Philcentric. This combo could work with a half link but then finding a 0mm offset ring that doesn't have a narrow wide tooth profile would be difficult.

I will say that while I was trying to work all of this out, the folks at SP-Cycle have been very responsive to my concerns on the AliExpress chat. I always expect the worst when dealing with some of these direct vendors so any type of help is appreciated. This frame definitely isn't for everyone as it does have some concerns, but those concerns will not apply to everyone. If the ride is as expected, I'll probably be ordering another one to build up for my brother. That will have gears and a new drivetrain so we purchase the correct parts in the beginning to save some hassles.

My other option would be a chain tensioner where a rear derailleur might go.

I think that would be a safer option with this frame as a single speed.

April 19, 2023, 02:35:15 PM
2
Re: Spcycle M016 hardtail frame builds Roughly .125 inch / 3.18mm of clearance with a round 32t 0mm offset ring mounted to a SRAM X0 GXP crankset with the Philcentric EBB in the lower forward position.


April 19, 2023, 08:17:32 PM
1
Re: Spcycle M016 hardtail frame builds
Can't find info about fork travel for mentioned frame geometry...

 I was told 505mm axle to crown length when I was ordering mine.

July 26, 2023, 06:57:59 AM
1
Re: Carbon-repair process of my TFSA (SL6 clone) frame Awesome for saving the frame. For future repairs, here's a few unsolicited tips.

1) You mentioned this already but do multiple layers. In this instance, you'd want to start with maybe a strip that is 1 inch wide and do one wrap with a bit of overlap. Second strip should be roughly 2 inches wide and the overlap of this layer should not sit on top of the overlap of the first layer. Keep the strips growing in width until you have plenty of coverage over the entire repair. This makes the cracked area have the most layers for strength and each additional layer helps transfer the loads to the good material.

2) If using a weave, change the direction of the weave between layers. Carbon weave is strongest in certain directions so alternating the layup can help even out the stresses put on the repair.

3) Always make sure the carbon weave is fully saturated with epoxy before laying it on the frame unless you are going to vacuum bag the repair. If not, you could end up with some dry spots in the carbon repair. A good portion of the strength comes from the epoxy so it's critical that you have proper saturation.

4) Before cutting your sheets to the size you need, leave them a bit big and lay them flat inside a plastic bag, I like to use plastic zip-loc bags but if you have to do larger pieces, any plastic can work. Pour a bit of epoxy on the carbon and close up the bag with little to no air in it. Use a squeegee to force the epoxy into the carbon fabric. This will make it "pre-preg" carbon fabric. Before removing the carbon, layout the size of the piece you need with a marker on the bag and cut it out with scissors. When you're ready to do the layup, you can carefully remove the two pieces of plastic off of your cut piece.

5) If you ever read an article from an expert that says to start with large patches and go smaller with each layer, you should REALLY question there credentials.

Either way, great job and this should work perfectly for an indoor bike.

 

July 31, 2023, 08:00:12 AM
4
Re: After the ride... or should i say after the catastrophic flood Sorry to hear about your loss. I'm glad the family is okay and you are able to push forward. I wish you the best of luck in your recovery efforts.

I have a small carbon hardtail frame for 27.5 inch wheels that I would be happy to donate to one of your daughters if we can figure out how to get it to you. I wish I had a complete bike to offer but it's just the frame at this point. Here is the build I did with it. I'm in the United States so I assume your country would try to impose some import taxes. If it helps, I will be in northern Italy (town of Cannobio) for two weeks in October and I could bring it with me.

https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,1343.0.html

August 14, 2023, 11:06:13 AM
1