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Messages - acedeuce802

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1
Dang, wish Balugoe had those a few months ago!  I got the ones with less flare, 34cm at the hoods and 37cm at the drops, and LOVE the hood position, but wish there was a bit more flare.

3
Got the Yoke in the mail last week, haven't done anything but measure so far, and don't plan on installing until putting some good miles on the Brain this year.

Brain shock + yoke, eye to eye = 255mm
Brain shock, travel = 49mm
Brain shock + yoke, at bottom out = 206mm

At bottom out, there's an 8mm gap from the seat stay bridge to the seat tube.  With potential for compressing bottom-out bumpers and frame/pivot/etc compliance, I wouldn't want to go much closer.

AliX yoke = 60mm
Recommended shocks = 200x51mm or 200x57mm

210 shock + AliX yoke, eye to eye = 261mm
51mm travel at bottom out = 210mm
57mm travel at bottom out = 203mm

I was using a measuring square, as parallel to the frame as I could tell, so it may not be the most accurate.  If my measurements were perfect, going to the 57mm shock would bring the seat stay clearance down from 8mm to ~5mm, but I'm sure there's some inaccuracy there.  I think it's at least close enough to say that a 210mm eye-to-eye shock will raise the rear end by ~10mm, the 51mm travel shock will bottom out a bit higher in travel than the Brain (but have slightly more travel), and the 57mm travel shock will bottom out a bit lower in travel than the Brain (and have ~15mm more travel).  I would assume the BikeYoke version keeps top-out height the same as the Brain, but the shorter shock option reduces travel, and the longer shock option matches factory travel.

Raising the rear end by ~10mm will also steepen the HA and STA, so could be a good candidate for a 110 or 120mm fork.

4
505 SL does seem like the right frame for that tire choice, I assume you're going for an "all-road" type bike?  Road tire size with a bit of knob for off-road, but not off-road enough to need a true gravel tire?  Do you ever see yourself wanting a full width gravel tire in the 40-50mm range, which would then push you to a true gravel bike, like a CFR707?  Just sparking some discussion in case anyone else has frame suggestions.

1. What's your goal of the bike?  The Rose and 505 in your comparison have nearly the same stack, and 505 has 14mm longer reach.  So if you ran a 10mm shorter stem on the 505, or pushed the saddle forward a bit, it'd feel nearly identical.  Which sparks the question, do you want it to feel the same?  You say you want more sportiv, do you want a more aero position, so lower stack? 

2. I chose the integrated handlebar with my CFR707, but I'm switching to a separate bar/stem.  You can mostly hide the cables with an FSA/ACR stem, or heavier knock-off version on Aliexpress.  I want to dial in my fit with a handlebar narrower than I could find in integrated, so that drives a separate bar/stem.  Plus integrated bars have handlebar angle fixed.  If it works for you, then the integrated bar is awesome.  But if it doesn't, there's nothing you can do about it.

5
Ah, somehow I was clicking around and ended up at this link: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807674955031.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.49a41802Hvydjj&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Same product, but no mention of shock size.

It's cheap enough, I ordered it.  I'll take some measurements when it comes in to see how the length of AliX yoke + 200mm shock compares to Specialized yoke + shock.

6
Interesting.  I just bought a 2019 Epic frame, haven't built it up yet.  May pick this up just in case I don't like the Brain come riding season.  For comparison sake, here's the Cames ad on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/326076108030) and here's the BikeYoke ad (https://bikeyoke.com/en/yoke-ep02/ep02?srsltid=AfmBOopr-gZHGfZ2XgN7btRhGpBLBHGgyvocbaERHyTMxtfXBWi9UV_q).  I'm mostly curious on the difference between the Cames/AliX versus BikeYoke.  One uses 200x51-57mm and the other uses 190x40-51mm.  Assuming they both have similar tire clearance or seat stay bridge clearance at bottom out, the Cames/AliX would have a higher ride height and more travel.

Edit: Taking a second look at the AliX ad, I don't think they mention shock size, above response only assumes Cames and AliX are the same based on them having the same general design.

7
Maintenance, Mechanics, & Tools / Re: Please start using Mywhoosh?
« on: October 31, 2024, 02:01:18 PM »
Since indievelo is dead (to me) is there any other platform other than mywhoosh for free?
Biketerra is free, just a lower graphics version of a cycling "video game"

8
29er / Re: Simple question for you geometry gurus…
« on: September 28, 2024, 08:14:11 AM »
https://madscientistmtb.com/bike-geometry-compare/

Input both bikes into this calculator.  To compare hardtail properly, input at the top a negative fork travel for how much sag you have.  Then in the bottom calculations, "Calculated Seated Fit" is saddle to bars.  You'll find that with the same ETT, your saddle to bars will be very close and it's the reach that differs.  So it'll feel similar length while seated, but your body is rotated forward with a bit more weight on the hands, but a steeper STA longer reach bike will feel longer while standing.

The picture visualization is perfect to see how they compare, then if you really like your current fit, you can see how stem, stack, handlebar, etc changes will dial it in, so you can make a good guess at what size components to start with.

9
^I've got the extended cage from F1Z bike shop, probably have 2000 miles on it with zero issue.  I've got the Sram MTB version, letting me use an 11-speed derailleur with Eagle 12 speed.  My buddy and I both use the oversize aluminum pully as well, but his completely bent on a ride for no reason.

10
Component Deals & Selection / Re: ZTTO rear hub
« on: July 22, 2024, 08:11:29 PM »
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2961.105.html

Page 8 of the thread on these.  You should read through the thread, a bunch of info already posted about them.

11
Component Deals & Selection / Re: ZTTO rear hub
« on: July 22, 2024, 06:07:19 PM »
This one does not have the part screwed into the hub, it has springs on both sides.
I'm not saying the ratchet screws into the hub, it's the part that the inner ratchet slides on.  The part in the original dt star ratchet system, big threaded ring on the left side of the picture.


12
Component Deals & Selection / Re: ZTTO rear hub
« on: July 21, 2024, 03:01:41 PM »
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2961.0.html

Replace the drive ring (splined part that threads into the aluminum shell that the ratchet sits in) with genuine DT before it strips

13
I use Kingstop pads for gravel and MTB, they have a few compounds, I use the ceramic.  They're good all around, bite well, quiet, last ~2000 miles.

15
Unfortunately I don't have good news, hopefully someone else has some solutions.  The main issue is the bend in the handlebar, so an option could be to use a normal stem/handlebar (or externally routed one piece handlebar) and run the cables through the headset at a shallower angle.  Maybe there's a type of cable and/or housing that has less friction for tight bends, or a lubricant that can help.  I could never get mine dialed in so I went AXS.

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