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I find it hard to believe that Berk is now big enough that his saddles are cloned. I remember when he was more or less a kid.

I agree on his failure rate-its unacceptable for the price. The saddles are reasonably comfortable.

Had two fail and I was 90kgs when i had them, I'm a  bit lighter now but they are rated to 100kgs.
They are very flexible may the should test them in the UK  ;D
But the new saddle at 622 euros!! will take my chances with this Kocvelo
Everything is being cloned these day!
Have seen some Darimo nexum drag aero bars but cannot find them AE again
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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Last post by Anders on Today at 07:43:58 AM »
I would definitely get an additional 0mm offset seatpost if I were you, it's only 35$. Even with separate bar and stem you still route the brake hoses through the stem internally so swapping up the stem is a pain in the butt. You will have to detach the brakes, remove handlebar tape, then reconnect everything and hope you don't have to bleed the system again. Also those spacers might not work with a regular aftermarket stem so you might have to source another stem from VB if necessary. Swapping the seatpost on the other hand takes 5 minutes if you need to shorten your position

Ah, I wasnt aware that you route trough he stem on these bikes. Sent them a mail and asked for the adjustments :)
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No one here has bought an AliExpress Carbon Saddle I find that hard to believe!

I find it hard to believe that Berk is now big enough that his saddles are cloned. I remember when he was more or less a kid.

I agree on his failure rate-its unacceptable for the price. The saddles are reasonably comfortable.
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Cyclocross Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Velobuild AERO GRAV Frame
« Last post by pavlo.k on Today at 07:20:43 AM »
Thanks, this is good input! Im totally clueless when it come to road/gravle bikes, so I maximized size thinking i could always replace the stem etc later on. Since I have to learn this new type of bike i guess that making too eratic changes in start wont make huge impact (except avoiding soar hands and back for too long reach). I will follow your example here :)
I would definitely get an additional 0mm offset seatpost if I were you, it's only 35$. Even with separate bar and stem you still route the brake hoses through the stem internally so swapping up the stem is a pain in the butt. You will have to detach the brakes, remove handlebar tape, then reconnect everything and hope you don't have to bleed the system again. Also those spacers might not work with a regular aftermarket stem so you might have to source another stem from VB if necessary. Swapping the seatpost on the other hand takes 5 minutes if you need to shorten your position
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Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: LEXON Road Carbon Crankset
« Last post by Da11as on Today at 07:16:25 AM »
Well, it would be great if you can order an extra one. Let me know when you're going to do it. I live in Spain.

I’ve bought a double plate from the brand Pass Quest to see if they fit perfectly and without issues. I see that many people are happy with the quality of these and the Stone ones.
Sent you DM.

It looks like there is no issue with other mounting interfaces except Easton. Problems usually comes from the stock spider which is out of spec.
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I wonder what the difference will be between a Pro frame and an X68.

That a question for Mr Lino  ;D
Frames are the same weight and i think he has had a go on an X68 if I'm not mistaken!

So have you ordered a new frame Davidhe23
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Sitar_Ned is the forum's administrator. You can reach out to them via PM or email.

I do support the idea. The software is really dated and things break a bit too often for my taste. Not sure how much capacity they have to actively maintain the forum and/or a migration.

Honestly, not much capacity at all. It's just me and I am in no way a web developer or webmaster. Just a simpleton Arkansas mountain biker that somehow figured out how to get this forum up 10 years ago.

I know the broken pages are annoying... and I am sorry about that... I do try to fix them immediately when they pop up so please do let me know.. I really appreciate it. I do have plans to upgrade to the latest SMF version to fix little issues like that but I'm sorry to disappoint anyone but there are no plans to "modernize" the forum in any way. No desire to have some modern mobile-friendly, super slick, dark mode interface. Chinertown will remain old-school looking with zero ads and zero optimizations for Google search. My main goal going forward is to keep AI out of the forum as much as possible. That's just my jam but I do understand if it isn't for everyone.

That said, I am certainly open and interested to hear everyone's input/advice/ideas and really appreciate it.

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One point to note, the preload ring is not compatible with SRAM DUB cranks.

The SRAM one has a moveable part that carries the thread, meanwhile all the chinese cranks (LEESE/CYBRE/PASSQUEST/FOVNO etc) all have the preload thread on the ND crank.

But on the other hand, the preload rings for chinese cranks seem to be compatible with each other.
My FOVNO one works fine on the LEESE one.

The problem seems to be with the repair part availability, so far I can only find the preload rings from WEIR (another crank priced very similar to LEESE) sold alone.

Sorting out my crank tomorrow now that I’ve finally got a proper torque wrench coming!

Just wanted to check — for the main axle bolt (drive side), which I believe is steel threading into a titanium spindle:
Have any of you applied anti-seize, grease, or maybe Loctite 243 (blue) before torquing it down?

I’m thinking galvanic corrosion risk here — especially steel/Ti contact, plus potential thread galling.

Plan is:

Clean threads

Anti-seize or Loctite 243 on the bolt threads

Grease under the bolt head

Torque to 40 Nm

Sound solid?

Also working on crank spacing:
I currently have 1.25 mm on the drive side and 1.5 mm on the non-drive. After torquing everything, I might need to shave off 0.25 mm to get perfect symmetry — measured roughly from the middle of the bottle cage mount with a tape, so not super precise, but close.

Trying to dial in the crank alignment as cleanly as I can — yeah, I know it’s probably OCD but half a mm feels like a mile once you’re aware of it
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I did not install them yet as I am still waiting for my groupset. You could try to find the bolt with same thread in some home repair store, such as OBI or look for a bolt with the same dimensions online. If you are in Europe I may ask my guy to make another bolt and send it to you :)

BTW 3-bolt spider from P2Max fits just fine - no play or gaps, same goes for BUCKLOS 3-bolt spider.

Well, it would be great if you can order an extra one. Let me know when you're going to do it. I live in Spain.

I’ve bought a double plate from the brand Pass Quest to see if they fit perfectly and without issues. I see that many people are happy with the quality of these and the Stone ones.


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Fair enough. As for the SL7—well, the SL8 is noticeably more comfortable to ride, so in that respect, you could say the X68 has more in common with the SL7.

Like I said, it’s a good frame so far. I’m actually surprised—surprised enough that it made me raise an eyebrow!
But let’s be clear: it’s not an SL8. The SL8 offers a smoother, more refined ride, as I’ve mentioned. I’m no expert, but even doing something as basic as the tap test on the down tube and top tube, they sound different. Not very scientific, I know, but it says something.

In terms of stiffness, the X68 is right up there—even the bars feel solid. This bike is definitely planted, not a noodle.

Five years ago, I wouldn’t have gone near a copy or fake frame, but they’ve come a long way—very close now.
It’s a bit like the 1:1 Rolex clones—experts now need loupes and specialised equipment just to spot the fakes. That’s how close these frames are getting. Manufacturers will have to step up to stay ahead.

I wonder what the difference will be between a Pro frame and an X68.
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