I would definitely get an additional 0mm offset seatpost if I were you, it's only 35$. Even with separate bar and stem you still route the brake hoses through the stem internally so swapping up the stem is a pain in the butt. You will have to detach the brakes, remove handlebar tape, then reconnect everything and hope you don't have to bleed the system again. Also those spacers might not work with a regular aftermarket stem so you might have to source another stem from VB if necessary. Swapping the seatpost on the other hand takes 5 minutes if you need to shorten your position

Thanks, this is good input! Im totally clueless when it come to road/gravle bikes, so I maximized size thinking i could always replace the stem etc later on. Since I have to learn this new type of bike i guess that making too eratic changes in start wont make huge impact (except avoiding soar hands and back for too long reach). I will follow your example here

I wonder what the difference will be between a Pro frame and an X68.

One point to note, the preload ring is not compatible with SRAM DUB cranks.

The SRAM one has a moveable part that carries the thread, meanwhile all the chinese cranks (LEESE/CYBRE/PASSQUEST/FOVNO etc) all have the preload thread on the ND crank.

But on the other hand, the preload rings for chinese cranks seem to be compatible with each other.
My FOVNO one works fine on the LEESE one.

The problem seems to be with the repair part availability, so far I can only find the preload rings from WEIR (another crank priced very similar to LEESE) sold alone.

Fair enough. As for the SL7—well, the SL8 is noticeably more comfortable to ride, so in that respect, you could say the X68 has more in common with the SL7.

Like I said, it’s a good frame so far. I’m actually surprised—surprised enough that it made me raise an eyebrow!
But let’s be clear: it’s not an SL8. The SL8 offers a smoother, more refined ride, as I’ve mentioned. I’m no expert, but even doing something as basic as the tap test on the down tube and top tube, they sound different. Not very scientific, I know, but it says something.

In terms of stiffness, the X68 is right up there—even the bars feel solid. This bike is definitely planted, not a noodle.

Five years ago, I wouldn’t have gone near a copy or fake frame, but they’ve come a long way—very close now.
It’s a bit like the 1:1 Rolex clones—experts now need loupes and specialised equipment just to spot the fakes. That’s how close these frames are getting. Manufacturers will have to step up to stay ahead.