Carbonda fm936 Thoughts

Started by Jan505, April 03, 2019, 11:25:02 AM

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wfl3


Almost done.  Just gotta get the cockpit adjustments finalized and cut the steerer down to final length.



Schoobang

Quote from: wfl3

Almost done.  Just gotta get the cockpit adjustments finalized and cut the steerer down to final length.

Impressive weight! What's the key? Drivetrain is probably a few hundred grams lighter than mine but where did you shave of the other 1,5kg? Super light wheels filled with helium?

wfl3

#362
Everything is really light (not over the top light) except the saddle, post and tires - def could shave more weight there.

Fox 32sc
DT240s on light carbon rims (1250 grams for the set)
XTR 11sp shifter/der
XTR Race brakes & rotors
XX1 SL Dub cranks (those things were lighter than expected, like 420 grams with 32t ring)
Garbaruk 10-46 cassette
Mt Zoom bar
Kalloy Uno stem
ESI grips
BikeYoke Divine 125mm dropper
Ergon ti saddle (240 grams)
Schwalbe Ralph/Ray tires w/ orange seal (a set of Rons would have saved over a 1/4lb)

With pedals, bottle cage, wireless speed sensor and computer mount it was 21lbs 11oz

I picked up most of the parts on closeout or as take-offs from new bikes.  Been collecting parts for this build for about 4 months.

Zdrenka89

Nice build wfl3!

I am trying to figure out if i should get 175 or 170mm cranks. What do you guys suggest? (Im 191cm or 6' 3")
Is the BB to low for longer cranks? 

Schoobang

Quote from: Zdrenka89 on May 07, 2020, 02:25:59 AM
Nice build wfl3!

I am trying to figure out if i should get 175 or 170mm cranks. What do you guys suggest? (Im 191cm or 6' 3")
Is the BB to low for longer cranks?

I went with 175mm cranks since I am also a tall guy. On my test rides I noticed that the bb was quite low, but not annoyingly low. I f you run a 100mm fork you might want to consider 170mm cranks however. The bb height differ 7-8mm depending on if you use a 100mm or a 120mm fork. The SID 120mm 2021 that I use is actually 5mm longer that last years 120mm model so that also helped with my decision.

Opadeira

what type of derailleur hanger does the frame use? Is one that's easy to replace through online bike shops or should I order spare ones from Carbonda?

Schoobang

Quote from: Opadeira on May 07, 2020, 05:47:13 AM
what type of derailleur hanger does the frame use? Is one that's easy to replace through online bike shops or should I order spare ones from Carbonda?

Not sure if you can get them from anywhere else. I asked carbonda to sent two extra hangers with the frame. I believe they charged a few dollars for them. A low price for one less thing to worry about.

Pharaohollie

Fantastic build. Mine is a total porker compared to this in its current build list.

I am guessing the FOX 32SC is 100mm? If so what stroke length is the shock? I ask because I am thinking about adding a light 100mm fork for XC racing, and I am not sure if the bike would feel rather unbalanced with the rear 165x42.5 rear.

Quote from: wfl3 on May 06, 2020, 05:45:11 PM
Everything is really light (not over the top light) except the saddle, post and tires - def could shave more weight there.

Fox 32sc
DT240s on light carbon rims (1250 grams for the set)
XTR 11sp shifter/der
XTR Race brakes & rotors
XX1 SL Dub cranks (those things were lighter than expected, like 420 grams with 32t ring)
Garbaruk 10-46 cassette
Mt Zoom bar
Kalloy Uno stem
ESI grips
BikeYoke Divine 125mm dropper
Ergon ti saddle (240 grams)
Schwalbe Ralph/Ray tires w/ orange seal (a set of Rons would have saved over a 1/4lb)

With pedals, bottle cage, wireless speed sensor and computer mount it was 21lbs 11oz

I picked up most of the parts on closeout or as take-offs from new bikes.  Been collecting parts for this build for about 4 months.

wfl3

Yes 100mm fork and the rear shock is Fox Factory 165x40

I ordered one of those Fox Performance 165x42.5 linked above as a back up - those were a really good deal.

I don't think it will make much diff with either rear shock, I think it's about 6mm diff in travel and the geo will be the same since the overall length is the same.

I have 170mm cranks on mine, but I'm a little under 5' 10"

brex

I'm 6'2" and went with a 170 mm crank, and 120 mm fork. I don't envision ever going back to 175 mm cranks on any MTB in the future.

ChinaCruz

Regarding creaking in the linkages, what I did to my other model fs late last year was to remove all bearings, then re-install with Loctite 648 retaining compound, the same I use on PF bottom brackets. So far so good. Can't stand creaks.

zilcho

Also 6'2" and running 170 on road, gravel, mountain...down from 175 years ago.  I don't really notice it while pedaling but does impact fit, more so for road and gravel though.  Helps if you prefer a higher cadence to spin up climbs.

My frame came in yesterday, waiting for a few more parts.  So what is the consensuses on linkage bearings?  Are they ok to move forward with the build or should I use this down time to disassemble and grease them?

Pharaohollie

Quote from: zilcho on May 07, 2020, 07:08:55 PM
Also 6'2" and running 170 on road, gravel, mountain...down from 175 years ago.  I don't really notice it while pedaling but does impact fit, more so for road and gravel though.  Helps if you prefer a higher cadence to spin up climbs.

My frame came in yesterday, waiting for a few more parts.  So what is the consensuses on linkage bearings?  Are they ok to move forward with the build or should I use this down time to disassemble and grease them?

Definitely disassemble and grease. If anything, to prevent any potential corrosion at the bearing I.D./hardware interface which makes them a pain to remove when needed.

QuoteRegarding creaking in the linkages, what I did to my other model fs late last year was to remove all bearings, then re-install with Loctite 648 retaining compound, the same I use on PF bottom brackets. So far so good. Can't stand creaks.

Good advice. I have used Loctite 648 with success as well, but now I'd use 609 (less tensile shear strength than 648, easier to remove). Even something like Loctite 401 (which is essentially like superglue) helps and Cannondale recommends using it for bearing assembly on its Scalpel carbon frames.

Zdrenka89

Quote from: Zdrenka89 on May 07, 2020, 02:25:59 AM
Nice build wfl3!

I am trying to figure out if i should get 175 or 170mm cranks. What do you guys suggest? (Im 191cm or 6' 3")
Is the BB to low for longer cranks?

Quote from: Schoobang on May 07, 2020, 03:40:32 AM
I went with 175mm cranks since I am also a tall guy.

Quote from: wfl3 on May 07, 2020, 08:09:26 AM
I have 170mm cranks on mine, but I'm a little under 5' 10"

Quote from: brex on May 07, 2020, 10:28:16 AM
I'm 6'2" and went with a 170 mm crank, and 120 mm fork.

Quote from: zilcho on May 07, 2020, 07:08:55 PM
Also 6'2" and running 170 on road, gravel, mountain...down from 175 years ago. 

Nice little sample i got here  :D

It sounds like both options works just fine. I think im leaning towards 170mm cranks as, come to think of it, I've never really been super picky with cranklength on previous bikes in the past. And since it gives a tiny bit more clearance (and probably also little bit more resell value) it seems like the slightly better option.

theirishrider

Quote from: wfl3 on May 06, 2020, 01:42:33 PM

Almost done.  Just gotta get the cockpit adjustments finalized and cut the steerer down to final length.

looks great dude!! Looks fantastic. 8) Which Light carbon rims did you go with? manage to build them yourself? :)  I'm doing the bill of materials for one at the moment! (quarantine activities) . Think I'll go with a mix of XT brakes (2 cylinder front, 1 cylinder back), derailleur, shifters with SLX cassette and cranks!