Chinertown
Chinese Carbon MTB => 29er => Topic started by: Jan505 on April 03, 2019, 11:25:02 AM
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http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/98.html
Carbonda just released a metric suspension xc 29er. My only complaint on the frame would be the cable but others may prefer it. I'm guessing the pro mance new frame will be similar. I started this thread to get thoughts on the new frame
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After looking at some Luescher Teknik videos on youtube about wrinkles etc. I started to look at brands that offer EPS molding.
Carbonda's gravel frame is really neat inside, no wrinkles nor irregularities.
This frame should be about the same quality I guess.
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This frame have a really radical geometry compared to what generic frames offer from now ::) ::)
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This frame have a really radical geometry compared to what generic frames offer from now ::) ::)
What do you mean by radical ? ;)
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What do you mean by radical ? ;)
Medium size : 67° hta with 100mm fork (goes to 66° with 120mm), reach 475mm! (goes to 465 with 120mm fork)
I think it's the most extreme generic trail bike in the long,slack,low trend.
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What do you mean by radical ? ;)
Medium size : 67° hta with 100mm fork (goes to 66° with 120mm), reach 475mm! (goes to 465 with 120mm fork)
I think it's the most extreme generic trail bike in the long,slack,low trend.
Yes and you forgot the 77° seat angle. This frame clearly is on the new trend. This is the most interesting frame for me right now in the 100-120mm travel.
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Can someone please post a pic or two and the geometry chart? Malwarebytes doesn't like the Carbonda website because of "riskware"
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(https://i.imgur.com/73K98Ms.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sUeTNV3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iR9vFhk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4uo5pWb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/721zCqf.png)
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Thanks Carbonazza, appreciated.
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Anyone with more news/info about this frame? Anyone ordered one?
Thanks!
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Wow thats crazy progressive! I dont like the look of the rear swing arm but the rest is nice!
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It looks like German brand Stevens will be selling this frame as their new full-suspension race bike, announced at Sea Otter Girona last week.
Here's a link to its coverage on a Spanish site:
https://esmtb.com/exclusiva-nueva-doble-de-xc-de-stevens-imagenes-de-su-prototipo/ (https://esmtb.com/exclusiva-nueva-doble-de-xc-de-stevens-imagenes-de-su-prototipo/)
I suppose it makes the "Designed and engineered in Hamburg" decal on the toptube a little misleading ;)
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Good catch! That bike looks really nice built up. The rider mut be quite tall, with that long stem and reach. In regards to the pix of the rear brake caliper. Is that paint chipping? There are black splotches in the red/orange paint. Think it is ok? Sweet frame otherwise. I want one!
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Good catch! That bike looks really nice built up. The rider mut be quite tall, with that long stem and reach. In regards to the pix of the rear brake caliper. Is that paint chipping? There are black splotches in the red/orange paint. Think it is ok? Sweet frame otherwise. I want one!
I saw those black splotches, too, but it looks like the bike was just washed before the photos. It's probably wet brake dust.
If I was to guess the frame size, it's maybe a 17"? The reach listed on the geometry charts is so long that riding one frame size smaller would be necessary to achieve the old-school XC position of being farther over the front wheel with a longer stem. Its 500mm reach in size 19" is even longer than the reach of the new Santa Cruz Megatower in size XL. This Carbonda/Stevens might be the most modern XC frame on the market.
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Anyone with more news/info about this frame? Anyone ordered one?
Thanks!
I hope to get one early July if it's not delayed more.
It's reassuring to see some frames already riding as Stevens prototypes.
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I hope to get one early July if it's not delayed more.
It's reassuring to see some frames already riding as Stevens prototypes.
I look forward for your build reports or questions.
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I hope to get one early July if it's not delayed more.
It's reassuring to see some frames already riding as Stevens prototypes.
I look forward for your build reports or questions.
Same here! Looking forward for the build!
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I hope to get one early July if it's not delayed more.
Any news of your frame ?
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This does look interesting.
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https://enduro-mtb.com/ns-synonym-tr-2020-vorgestellt/
The main triangle of the new ns synonym looks a lot like the carbonda.
A friend of mine ordered a large carbonda. I can provide some Info like weight and finish quality when it has arrived.
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I hope to get one early July if it's not delayed more.
Any news of your frame ?
It's supposed to be sent thus tracking doesn't work, process is desperately slow.
edit : it took them almost a week to go to the post office and now they say me the parcel was probably taken out for safety check? anyone heard that about china post?
There's 50% chance i ask a refund soon and stop this comedy.
If you want to buy the frame it seems there is no stock, frames are made on demand and you have to wait for the factory and then test and then finally postage if you're lucky...
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Carbonda seem to have been quite reliable in the past.
Maybe just some bad luck this time and patience are needed.
Who were you dealing with ?
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Dealing with Wing, it's not a problem of communication or reliability, i think you can trust them, they seems professional and honest sellers.
It's the global process slow. For example my frame was done july 1st and was only sent july 8th. It's 1 week lost, and now the problem with the post delays me 2 or 3 weeks more.
Not to mention first contact around april 15, they said me 1 month delay... Why advertising for a frame you need in fact 4 months to deliver.
So yes to potential buyers, be really patient. Moreover i think the factory will probably have to build the frames for stevens bike, ns bikes in priority.
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We tend to forget it is not a shop around the corner or an Amazon like experience.
We are our own importer here, and have to deal with the inevitable glitches that sometimes happen in the chain.
I've learned with the years to never rely on a delivery date especially for an event.
In general it works, the frame is in stock, and the shipping takes about 10 days.
But sometimes not and weeks or even months can pass quickly.
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Nice find. Can anyone share the price?
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I asked recently... $820 for the Super Light and $630 for the normal
They told me there were production glitches initially, as it is a new frame but they will have many in stock in August.
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I just received the same answer. ETA for Germany is September. I'm very tempted, as this is finally a Geometry I was waiting for, and even XL is available.
The different weights light vs regular comes from "structure of the carbon layer is different from the raw material"
200 USD for 150g saved... What have you guys ordered? Regular weave/raw or lightweight?
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It is a bit more expensive than the usual 1,000€/Kg weight saving cost :D
I'm still a few months from ordering I think.
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I'm planning to order a lightweight frame somewhere August-September, so in the winter I can build the bike up. Which size are you guys ordering, just your regular size, or one size smaller due to the length of the bike? Couldn't find any recommendated size based on length on the NS Bikes site yet, neither on the Stevens site.
Actually also curious to know if someone already received the frame, and can tell us more about finishing quality, final weight, etc.
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I'm planning to order a lightweight frame somewhere August-September, so in the winter I can build the bike up. Which size are you guys ordering, just your regular size, or one size smaller due to the length of the bike? Couldn't find any recommendated size based on length on the NS Bikes site yet, neither on the Stevens site.
Actually also curious to know if someone already received the frame, and can tell us more about finishing quality, final weight, etc.
If you like forward geometry go with your regular size and a short stem, it's what i will do. Or pick a size smaller and use a longer stem but seat tube can be too small.
That's why i think this frame is designed to use stem in the 40mm to 60/70mm(if you're XC lycra rider) range.
First impression, weight check to come...
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Which size are you guys ordering, just your regular size, or one size smaller due to the length of the bike?
I'm between two sizes in general, riding a 041 L for the moment, but will probably go for M this time( I'm 178cm/5'10" but with a 89cm/35" inseam ).
If you measure the horizontal and vertical distance between the rear of the saddle and the bar of your current bike, it should give you a good hint on the size to choose.
The stack and reach of the two bikes could help comfort the choice.
First impression, weight check to come...
If that helps I share your impatience :D
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Frame is finally at home. :)
This is a medium size, normal version with matte finish.
I checked an approximate 2kg as claimed in description.
First impressions :
The matte finish is really minimalist, you can see sometimes the carbon sheet trough the varnish.
Overall quality is really good, better than the pictures on website, even the inside of the frame is excellent, a step further from my LCFS902.
Some screw are torx, better to know.
All the cables are internal, there are no guides inside so you can put them as you want. Thus for the rear derailleur you must use full lenght housing. No need to mention this is single chainring only.
Compared to my bike, when you move the suspension without shock you can really feel the rebond from the pivotless rear triangle, something to think about when tuning the shock.
Shock mount is trunnion and 22,2mm upper side.
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Frame is finally at home. :)
Woohoo !
...you can see sometimes the carbon sheet trough the varnish... even the inside of the frame is excellent...
Seeing carbon sheets is normal.
I'm glad to read that Carbonda continues to make frames that looks good inside too !
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Congrats numberzero, great news!
Which components are you planning to use for your build?
I'm also planning to use a similar Fox rear shock, are you planning to install a remote? Do you know if that is even possible?
Looking forward to build pics!
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Congrats numberzero, great news!
Which components are you planning to use for your build?
I'm also planning to use a similar Fox rear shock, are you planning to install a remote? Do you know if that is even possible?
Looking forward to build pics!
It's an evol 165x45 with the 3 positions found on ebay us at a decent price. This shock exist with a 2 position remote, check the link on the stevens jura 2020 posted before but i don't know if you can convert one version into the other one? EDIT : 165x42,5 is the maximum the frame can handle
For the build description, first ride, stay tuned...
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For the build description, first ride, stay tuned...
Sure... you have a captivated audience here !
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I could not resist to do a check ride :P
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I could not resist to do a check ride :P
well, what do you think? We can all see it looks great but we want to know how it feels.
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well, what do you think? We can all see it looks great but we want to know how it feels.
That was a quick build, nice !
It looks numberzero wants to keep it for himself for now ;D
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Back from a weekend on the gravel bike.
So the fm936 is assembled, i putted my parts from the old to the new bike, no problem so far to signal.
The cables routing is a good idea. Compared to routing under the bottom bracket, cables are shorter and there are less interaction when suspension compresses, they don't eat the carbon under your cranckset and you don't have to worry about extra lenght needed.
The only problem is potentially rubbing on the shock.
About my build, i use a 165x45 fox evol shock meant to provide 120mm travel EDIT : 165x42,5 is the maximum the frame can handle and in front a reba setted to 120mm. With a 50x17° stem i have the same position than my lcfs902 which was in 100mm front with a 80x17° stem, so i feel at home to compare the effect on this «long slack » geometry. By the way https://www.bikegeocalc.com/ is good to compare 2 bikes. The idea is to test a XC+ or a light trail.
At the moment i just did a promising 25km test (not exhaustive enough terrain) under heatwave (not the best legs ever).
More to come... :)
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I will try to sum up my first impressions.
First thing is to adapt to the front wheel being far away and then you feel the smooth handling, stability, it gives you huge confidence, this thing is fast. In the same time on climbs you put power down and the bike goes, balance between rear and front, weight distribution is nice, you fight less against unintentional wheelies or rear wheel sliding like on 90' geometries. For sure if you ride mainly at slow speed turning tight around trees or so, you'd better go with a shorter wheelbase and a more lively steep HTA.
About suspension I use a sag in the 25-30% range (not easy to check, it's a matter of 2mm) and it works very well without eating the full travel for nothing.
The open position of the fox is very sensitive. Switching to medium mode is enough to reduce the pedal bob to insigifiant, probably the best for smooth terrain, gravel etc... I didn't test firm mode.
If you're an XCO racer the a remote on bar is a better option because lever on shock is not the easiest to access in action.
For information main pivot is at the height of a 32 chainring.
I will end with the overall feeling. The frame to me is greatly designed, stiffness/rigidity is well balanced and you don't feel a difference between an overstiff front and flexy rear triangle for instance.
This fm936 is a great mix between a trail inspired geometry and the DNA of an Xco whippet with modern geometry, efficient suspension, low price and excellent quality!
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Sounds good! How is the handling compared to the LCFS902 frame? Is this frame the next level?
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Thank you numberzero for your first impressions. Please keep us informed on how things turn out after a few weeks of use. :)
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I'm sorry if I missed this in an earlier post but what size wheels / tyres are you running and what is the bb height?
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Sounds good! How is the handling compared to the LCFS902 frame? Is this frame the next level?
It's different, more stable, smoother handling, i can't say more at the moment. Moreover this one is 120mm, while i runned 100mm on the LCFS902 which is a really good bike by the way.
Thank you numberzero for your first impressions. Please keep us informed on how things turn out after a few weeks of use. :)
After the holidays, in september i will probably have a good opinion on it.
I'm sorry if I missed this in an earlier post but what size wheels / tyres are you running and what is the bb height?
29"x2,2, with a 120 fork i have 330/335mm bb height. From the geometry chart bbdrop is 45mm with a 100mm fork so the bb height will be around 10mm less.
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I have more miles on the bike, only offroad, ascends, descends, fast trails, single tracks...
The frame survived hard riding, i just had to check some screws, i bend a little bit the derailleur hanger while riding a bit closer to rocks :) this thing did the job, didn't break or resist too much to save derailleur.
First impressions are confirmed. This is a fun and fast bike.
The 120mm on front gives a noticeable bit more comfort compared to a classical 100mm XC and at the same time i keep an agressive position due to negative stem and short headtude.
I wanted to test a long reach with short stem (50mm) and i really like. The steering feels natural, the grip you have when you lean the bike is so nice
and due to low handle bar i don't suffer of slow steering at all.
Once you understood you can trust the front wheel this thing rides really fast. In fact it's like having a right sized bike without the front wheel just under the hands.
At the moment i don't see why going back to "traditionnal geometry", except the fun of riding a twitchy bike?
About suspension i can confirm that the fox evol works very well, in normal use i don't need to tune something or put volume spacer, the travel is well exploited.
On easy terrain, if you really like to put the hammer down, the fully open mode is too soft, firm mode is better or open mode with the hardest setup. The top is surely to get a shock from a scott spark with the 3 positions remote.
To end, a fews things i have in mind :
I don't see any reason to use a 100mm fork, the bike feel greatly balanced on 120mm.
Even if i could also ride a smallest size frame I don't regret my choice.
Keep in mind too the seat tube is steep so it's not for people who like to sit on the back.
If you want a cheap boosted XCO bike, don't hesitate.
Someone asked if this was the next level, probably yes!
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Thank you very much for being the first and give such precise reports !
I was just going to ask you how it was going ;)
2 other friends want to build one too.
The one thing that worries me a little, is to choose the right shock.
Any trunnion 165x40 will do it right ?
And I'm still hesitating 100 vs 120mm, as a weight weenie, and since I don't live in a very rocky/rooty region.
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EDIT : 165x42,5 is the maximum the frame can handle
With 165x40 you will have less travel at the rear wheel, probably around 100mm.
In my case 100 vs 120mm, i don't have weight penalty because i just changed the airshaft in my fork. To be fully precise it's a 2013 reba with 46 offset (i didn't liked the new 51 offset rockshox i tested on a friend bike) so i keep mine.
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What's your axle to crown dimension? Geo chart shows 505mm for a 100m travel fork, I'm guessing you are more than 505mm?
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Great! I'm glad to get good news about this frame. Definitely on my short list now.
Thank you!
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First impressions are confirmed. This is a fun and fast bike.
The 120mm on front gives a noticeable bit more comfort compared to a classical 100mm XC and at the same time i keep an agressive position due to negative stem and short headtude.
I wanted to test a long reach with short stem (50mm) and i really like. The steering feels natural, the grip you have when you lean the bike is so nice
and due to low handle bar i don't suffer of slow steering at all.
Once you understood you can trust the front wheel this thing rides really fast. In fact it's like having a right sized bike without the front wheel just under the hands.
At the moment i don't see why going back to "traditionnal geometry", except the fun of riding a twitchy bike?
About suspension i can confirm that the fox evol works very well, in normal use i don't need to tune something or put volume spacer, the travel is well exploited.
On easy terrain, if you really like to put the hammer down, the fully open mode is too soft, firm mode is better or open mode with the hardest setup. The top is surely to get a shock from a scott spark with the 3 positions remote.
To end, a fews things i have in mind :
I don't see any reason to use a 100mm fork, the bike feel greatly balanced on 120mm.
Even if i could also ride a smallest size frame I don't regret my choice.
Keep in mind too the seat tube is steep so it's not for people who like to sit on the back.
If you want a cheap boosted XCO bike, don't hesitate.
Someone asked if this was the next level, probably yes!
Do you think a 2.35 tire on a 29 or 30mm ID wheel would fit in the rear? the Steven's model in the linked story looked like 2.25 Barzo that might fit tight.
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any size recommendations based on height?
5'10", slightly longish legs/shortish torso and arms
current frame has 430mm reach and 80mm stem, and don't feel stretched on it
17" + 50mm stem seems to yield the same effective reach, but ST is significantly steeper on FM936, meaning my ass will be further towards the BB than on my bike - right?
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Thanks for the review numberzero!
I decided to also go for this frame, just ordered a light weight size M myself (I'm 175cm tall), will use a 50mm stem. Furthermore will build the bike with a 120mm Fox 34 Step-Cast fork, and a Fox Float DPS Factory 165x45 rear shock, XTR shifter, derailleur and brakes, for the rest all XT 12-speed drivetrain. Cockpit will be a collection of AliExpress items. I will reuse my selfbuild Newmen rim-DT Swiss 350 hub wheels from my current bike. All-in-all the bike should weigh little bit over 10kg.
@numberzero; a 165x45 trunnion mount rear shock fits right? Everywhere I see 165x40 as maximum, so I was just wondering if you had to do any modifications to let a 165x45 fit.
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What's your axle to crown dimension? Geo chart shows 505mm for a 100m travel fork, I'm guessing you are more than 505mm?
Something around 525, it's a 120mm fork.
Do you think a 2.35 tire on a 29 or 30mm ID wheel would fit in the rear? the Steven's model in the linked story looked like 2.25 Barzo that might fit tight.
I have plenty of space with a real 2,2 tyre, a good centimeter of clearance between tyre and frame, so a 2,35 tire will fit.
current frame has 430mm reach and 80mm stem, and don't feel stretched on it
17" + 50mm stem seems to yield the same effective reach, but ST is significantly steeper on FM936, meaning my ass will be further towards the BB than on my bike - right?
This is exactly what the way i went, check my previous posts. I move back my saddle to get the same position. But i'm riding with not much setback so steep angle doesn't annoy me.
@numberzero; a 165x45 trunnion mount rear shock fits right? Everywhere I see 165x40 as maximum, so I was just wondering if you had to do any modifications to let a 165x45 fit.
Check the geometry chart, it's written 165x45 and at the rear wheel you see and arc of 120, so i think 45mm on shock gives 120mm travel (i did not verify), 40mm on shock something around 100mm. I'm riding 45mm stroke without any problem.EDIT : 165x42,5 is the maximum the frame can handle I hope you'll appreciate this bike as i do :)
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I have more miles on the bike, only offroad, ascends, descends, fast trails, single tracks...
The frame survived hard riding, i just had to check some screws, i bend a little bit the derailleur hanger while riding a bit closer to rocks :) this thing did the job, didn't break or resist too much to save derailleur.
First impressions are confirmed. This is a fun and fast bike.
Hi. Nice bike! Looks very fast uphill and downhill)
Can you answer a few questions about this frame ?
1) Lower mount of trunnion shock, how its made? Some bearings in frame or bushings?
2) Can you measure maximum insertion length of your dropper post ? M size frame ?
3) Have you dissasemble frame pivots before building bike? Interesting, there is bearings in upper stays - link connection, or bushings? Size of bearings ?
Thanks )
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1) There are bearings in the frame, bolt are with the frame so you have nothing to buy
2) Maximum insertion of the seatpost is around 20cm in medium size
3) No i just build the bike, but i think it's bearing everywhere. I will check one day if i do too much rainy muddy rides
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1) There are bearings in the frame, bolt are with the frame so you have nothing to buy
2) Maximum insertion of the seatpost is around 20cm in medium size
3) No i just build the bike, but i think it's bearing everywhere. I will check one day if i do too much rainy muddy rides
Thanks for your answers.
Hope to see more bike reviews )
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Hi numberzero, could you take some measurement for me? I'm trying to figure out how I could fit my 168x38mm shock in this frame even if it's made for a trunnion shock. Can you measure the inner and outer tab width at the trunnion mount? Can you also measure or tell me the holes sizes at the trunnion mount?
Thank you!
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This looks like the same manufacturer who made my M06 flex-stay frame, a very good frame.
As usual, they can't figure out the geo or what size shock it takes. You guys will have to use the tape measure and experimentation approach. I ended up with a 130mm fork on a frame spec'd for a 100mm lol, as well as an offset shock bushing.
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To use an old shock 165x38 you have to buy this thing https://www.dirtlabs.com/trunnion-adapter-kit/
With trunnion mount there is no more axle going though the shock, just 2 bolts and bearings on the frame.
Chinacruz i don't totally understand what you mean, the geometry chart for this frame is pretty clear. For the shock you have 3 choices in trunnion 165x45/42.5/40 depending on the travel you want.EDIT : 165x42,5 is the maximum the frame can handle
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To use an old shock 165x38 you have to buy this thing https://www.dirtlabs.com/trunnion-adapter-kit/
With trunnion mount there is no more axle going though the shock, just 2 bolts and bearings on the frame.
I know about dirtlabs and I know Trunnion is just 2 bolts. But I'm pretty sure I can make myself the same thing as what dirtlabs sells for cheaper. They also don't seem to deliver to Canada and don't have the parts in stock (all on back order). I just need to know the right dimensions for the bolt and the tubes. I'm pretty sure the ID of the holes are 10mm but need confirmation. I'm also pretty sure the Trunnion spacing is 54mm but need confirmation. One thing I don't know is how thick the trunnion tabs are on that frame. It would be nice if you could provide them.
Thank you!
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I got this on mail.
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I got this on mail.
Thank you! So this confirms what I was thinking. Now only one question is left unanswered. :)
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I got this on mail.
Thank you! So this confirms what I was thinking. Now only one question is left unanswered. :)
Yes dimensions are correct, now you have to create a 54mm axle with M10x1.0 threaded holes to suit your shock, what do you need more?
With the frame you have the 2 bolts + 2 shims to assemble
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I'm thinking more about using an 8mm OD bolt assembly and adapt it with two pieces of 10mm OD 8mm ID stainless tube each side of the hardware kit bushings. I might need two washers also. But overall, at least I know it can be done and that I can source the parts to do it.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/M6-8-x-29-86mm-Scooter-roller-skate-DH-HF-bike-bicycle-shock-Nut-Bolt-Screw/202661185961?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Da44845c9df2f42cba13f57b21a082f47%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D202661185961%26itm%3D202661185961%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2481888&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Af125953c-e6b2-11e9-81c4-74dbd180cd88%7Cparentrq%3A972a209c16d0a68d5f8ca935fffead96%7Ciid%3A1
https://www.amazon.ca/CynKen-Stainless-Steel-Capillary-Length/dp/B01MRPVRD2/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=stainless+steel+pipe+10mm+OD+8mm+ID&qid=1570199224&sr=8-2
To be frank, the harder part of all this will be to convince my better half that I need a new bike frame. My IP-036 just refuse to die whatever I do to it! :)
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Also received the frame (size M), and already build the bike with combination of XTR and XT components, with Fox Factory fork and shock, total weight is about 10,5kg.
First round in town is positive, now need to take it to the trails!
(https://i.ibb.co/Q9RRjvX/DSC-0393.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/qWYxBQ1/DSC-0394.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/nPsDkjV/DSC-0402.jpg)
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Nice looking bike. Its SL frame or regular ?
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It's an SL frame, size M.
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I'm a couple minutes from ordering one. But one question remains. How do you route a dropper post?
Btw: Singletrack.com has a review on the NS bikes synonym; they'reloving it.
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You can route it through the frame, there is a line running through the frame already (for rear derailleur, rear brake and dropper), which you can use to guide your dropper cable through the frame itself.
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You can route it through the frame, there is a line running through the frame already (for rear derailleur, rear brake and dropper), which you can use to guide your dropper cable through the frame itself.
Thanks Corneliz.
I already ordered one...hopefully it will arive before christmas
Now chosing parts... Think I will pick a float dps 165 x 42,5 like the ns synonym TR (they're claiming 120mm rear shock with it). An other thing is fork offset... Any thoughts? The Ns ones are with 44mm offset
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Thanks Corneliz.
I already ordered one...hopefully it will arive before christmas
Now chosing parts... Think I will pick a float dps 165 x 42,5 like the ns synonym TR (they're claiming 120mm rear shock with it). An other thing is fork offset... Any thoughts? The Ns ones are with 44mm offset
If you are matching the NS rear, I would match the NS front
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I will! 120mm front and rear.
Can't wait...
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Anybody measured real seatpost insert length in L size ? Listed on their site - 230mm, seems a little bit odd.
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Thanks Corneliz.
I already ordered one...hopefully it will arive before christmas
Now chosing parts... Think I will pick a float dps 165 x 42,5 like the ns synonym TR (they're claiming 120mm rear shock with it). An other thing is fork offset... Any thoughts? The Ns ones are with 44mm offset
If you are matching the NS rear, I would match the NS front
I'm not sure the carbonda and NS bikes have the same suspension ratio. NS use a 165x37,5 on the short travel version and the rock arm is different.
By the way i notice that with a 165x45, when the shock if fully compressed, the arch between seatstays comes in contact with seat tube. I try to know more with carbonda, was the first geometry chart (that tou can still see on this topic) wrong?
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Thanks Corneliz.
I already ordered one...hopefully it will arive before christmas
Now chosing parts... Think I will pick a float dps 165 x 42,5 like the ns synonym TR (they're claiming 120mm rear shock with it). An other thing is fork offset... Any thoughts? The Ns ones are with 44mm offset
If you are matching the NS rear, I would match the NS front
I'm not sure the carbonda and NS bikes have the same suspension ratio. NS use a 165x37,5 on the short travel version and the rock arm is different.
By the way i notice that with a 165x45, when the shock if fully compressed, the arch between seatstays comes in contact with seat tube. I try to know more with carbonda, was the first geometry chart (that tou can still see on this topic) wrong?
Hmmm...looking for a 42,5 shock then? Let us know if carbonda tells you something. You're sure about the rockerarm? On pictures it looks the same.
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Carbonda advise me to stick to the 165x40 shock as mentionned in the updated geometry chart.
With 165x45 when you bottom out the shock the arch between seatstays comes in contact with seattube.
Even if i rode like that and my frame still intact, there's a potential risk.
I think with 42,5 stroke there's no contact, i will check.
Carbonda said me at the moment they won't modify the rear triangle.
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Carbonda advise me to stick to the 165x40 shock as mentionned in the updated geometry chart.
With 165x45 when you bottom out the shock the arch between seatstays comes in contact with seattube.
Even if i rode like that and my frame still intact, there's a potential risk.
I think with 42,5 stroke there's no contact, i will check.
Carbonda said me at the moment they won't modify the rear triangle.
Just received my rochshox deluxe rct 165x42,5 for a bargain price...still waiting for my frame
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Finally the frame arrived...but hell no... A crack or just paintissue? on the chainstay at the driveside. I think this was already there before shipment. The package was without tears or so.
I already mailed carbonda about it. Any ideas? I don't think it's a good idea to forget it and just use it. Hopefully they will send me a new rear triangle.
(https://i.ibb.co/37zXH4r/IMG-20191210-182103.jpg) (https://ibb.co/0ctN3mD)
(https://i.ibb.co/5409nmM/IMG-20191210-182057.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vqFBQpw)
(https://i.ibb.co/GH2zpSM/IMG-20191210-182030.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BnZ03M6)
(https://i.ibb.co/7bcVbjJ/IMG-20191210-181936.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zNcbNQh)
(https://i.ibb.co/km1hhsP/IMG-20191210-181921.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SfrKK4Z)
(https://i.ibb.co/56rRKLJ/IMG-20191210-181859.jpg) (https://ibb.co/yX6Q4qx)
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It seems something scratched your frame and the bolt too, probably just paint.
Can you check with no pressure in your shock if you can take full travel without contact issue between rear and seattube?
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I'm already in contact with Adam...
Can let it fix it here and send them the bill or they send me a new rear... Im in doubt what to do...
As soon as I know what to do I'll post some pictures with the rear shock in t.
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Seems to be only a cosmetic problem. I would probably ask for a refund and then fix it by myself with a paint repairing pen...
Is this a regular frame or a superlight frame? Which size?
Have you weighted it?
If you have a superlight frame and decide to change the rear end be careful not to receive a regular rear end!
I'm already in contact with Adam...
Can let it fix it here and send them the bill or they send me a new rear... Im in doubt what to do...
As soon as I know what to do I'll post some pictures with the rear shock in t.
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Seems to be only a cosmetic problem. I would probably ask for a refund and then fix it by myself with a paint repairing pen...
Is this a regular frame or a superlight frame? Which size?
Have you weighted it?
If you have a superlight frame and decide to change the rear end be careful not to receive a regular rear end!
I'm already in contact with Adam...
Can let it fix it here and send them the bill or they send me a new rear... Im in doubt what to do...
As soon as I know what to do I'll post some pictures with the rear shock in t.
Is a regular frame size M. And just asked Adam for a refund..they wanted to send me a new rear without the bearings..I know its a pain to remove and replace old bearings without smashing them...
Udate... Made a deal with Adam, get a partial refund.
Now just started building up the bike... Couple of hickups: old dropper post is 30.9, need a new one in 31.6. Also forgot to buy rearshock mounting bushings.... Damn bill pilling up.
But getting there.
When i'm done I will post a picture of the rearshock.
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Question: which kind of crankset did you use... How is the chainline? Thisnis bcause I want to buy a SLX m71xx crank and they are in boost/normal with a 52mm and in 55mm chainline. Will 52mm not be to tight to the chainstay?
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I have a regular M8100 crank (M8100-1), with 52mm chainline, there is 1cm between the chain and the chainstay.
(https://i.ibb.co/sv11hyR/DSC-0463.jpg)
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I have a regular M8100 crank (M8100-1), with 52mm chainline, there is 1cm between the chain and the chainstay.
(https://i.ibb.co/sv11hyR/DSC-0463.jpg)
Thank you
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Am I wrong or do I see a manual Lockout on this picture.
If you don't use a remote which is what I would like to do, how difficult is it to reach the lockout lever at the bottom while riding?
Thanks!
I have a regular M8100 crank (M8100-1), with 52mm chainline, there is 1cm between the chain and the chainstay.
(https://i.ibb.co/sv11hyR/DSC-0463.jpg)
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It seems something scratched your frame and the bolt too, probably just paint.
Can you check with no pressure in your shock if you can take full travel without contact issue between rear and seattube?
This is the clearance with 42.5mm shock
(https://i.ibb.co/s2NcSMX/IMG-20191217-194730.jpg)
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This is the clearance with 42.5mm shock
[/quote]
Thanks, so it works
Am I wrong or do I see a manual Lockout on this picture.
If you don't use a remote which is what I would like to do, how difficult is it to reach the lockout lever at the bottom while riding?
Thanks!
It's depends if you are flexible or not, have a good balance or not. There's always a risk to ride one-handed with awkward position and the lever is small you can move the rebond by accident too.
Definitely if you want to race go for a handlebar remote or don't change shock setup.
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I indeed don't have a remote lockout, thought to convert from manual to remote myself, but appeared to be very complicated, so I still have to send the shock to a center for conversion (but is expensive). For now I don't change the shock setup during riding, which is actually also fine.
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Finally finished my build after some issues with the rearshock bushings.
Like m very much, but weight is a bit higher than expected with 12.5kg.
First impressions are good... size seems good, not to long for me (1.74cm) and nearly any peddle bob.
Pic:
(https://i.ibb.co/Cbsvx0h/IMG-20191225-105129.jpg)
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Hello,
First: happy new riding year!
Second: after building already many custom bikes, I think it would be nice to do my next building project around a frame that is unknown to me. My eye fell on the promising Carbonda FM936 frame, partly due to the 'radical' geometry.
But before I proceed to purchase, I would love to hear some specific feedback from the bikers who are already familiar with this frame:
1. Does anyone know if there is a partnership between the Carbonda FM936 and the NS Bikes Synonym, as well as the Stevens Jura 2020 (which emerged as the first OEM brand with this frame, but after which, strangely enough, nothing was heard anymore) or is the FM936 actually a 'counterfeit' or those OEM frames?
a.The Jura and FM936 look really 100% identical. The Synonym has the same front triangle, but a different (and in my eyes much nicer) design rear triangle, in particular the part around the rear axle.
2. I currently ride a bike around a Pro-Mance M7007 in size XL. This frame has already a fairly long reach of 488mm, which means I am already quite stretched out. I therefore doubt between a size L and XL for the Carbonda FM936 frame.
a. Size XL seems to long for me, but I have no experience with the real-live effect of a steep seat angle of more than 74 degrees.
b. Size L seems - in theory - to fit me better. On the other hand, I am somewhat concerned about the short seat tube of only 490mm and the installation of a dropper post. I have pretty long legs, namely. Can anyone advise on this?
3. Is the rocket linkage of the Carbonda made from carbon or aluminum (as with the NS Synonym)?
4. What is your critical opinion about the build and above all finish quality of the FM936? Many or few rough edges? Sturdy hardware? Hardware that fits neatly on the frame?
5. I only see black FM936 frames on the web. Has someone had his FM936 color painted via Carbonda, and if so, what is the quality of the paint job?
6. Can someone tell me the actual weight of the FM936 Normal in size L and XL?
Many thanks!
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I can only answer to your question 5... and will build two FM936 for the coming season.
I got few gravel frames that were painted by Carbonda, and their paint job is great.
Even with some exotic requests, Wing there, was always helpful in refining the pattern.
The paint maybe a little brittle tough.
However, I made one of my frame custom painted here in Belgium, and the paint is of equal quality.
Note sure why but it looks big brands' original painting is a level higher in quality and resistance.
But as usual, it is the first scratch that hurts ;)
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Hello,
First: happy new riding year!
Second: after building already many custom bikes, I think it would be nice to do my next building project around a frame that is unknown to me. My eye fell on the promising Carbonda FM936 frame, partly due to the 'radical' geometry.
But before I proceed to purchase, I would love to hear some specific feedback from the bikers who are already familiar with this frame:
1. Does anyone know if there is a partnership between the Carbonda FM936 and the NS Bikes Synonym, as well as the Stevens Jura 2020 (which emerged as the first OEM brand with this frame, but after which, strangely enough, nothing was heard anymore) or is the FM936 actually a 'counterfeit' or those OEM frames?
a.The Jura and FM936 look really 100% identical. The Synonym has the same front triangle, but a different (and in my eyes much nicer) design rear triangle, in particular the part around the rear axle.
2. I currently ride a bike around a Pro-Mance M7007 in size XL. This frame has already a fairly long reach of 488mm, which means I am already quite stretched out. I therefore doubt between a size L and XL for the Carbonda FM936 frame.
a. Size XL seems to long for me, but I have no experience with the real-live effect of a steep seat angle of more than 74 degrees.
b. Size L seems - in theory - to fit me better. On the other hand, I am somewhat concerned about the short seat tube of only 490mm and the installation of a dropper post. I have pretty long legs, namely. Can anyone advise on this?
3. Is the rocket linkage of the Carbonda made from carbon or aluminum (as with the NS Synonym)?
4. What is your critical opinion about the build and above all finish quality of the FM936? Many or few rough edges? Sturdy hardware? Hardware that fits neatly on the frame?
5. I only see black FM936 frames on the web. Has someone had his FM936 color painted via Carbonda, and if so, what is the quality of the paint job?
6. Can someone tell me the actual weight of the FM936 Normal in size L and XL?
Many thanks!
Can give you a couple of answers.
2. I come from a canyon nerve with a reach of 422 size M and now a medium with reach 466 (120mm fork). Because of the steap HTA and a much shorter stem the effective tt (with stem) is almost as long and does feel natural. I had the same conserns, but I'm glad I did. So much more controll and moving space.
3. Carbon
4. Despite having some paint cracks because of shipment the quality js excellent... No sharp parts, even the inside feels smooth. Hardware fits nice, but I dont think it's the best qualitiy of bearings and the aluminium which is used for the torx part could also be tougher. On the other hand, bearings from other brands are most of the time also a bit flimsy.. they al need some extra grease.
Good luck with your choise... But I would pick the size you normal should have picked. I'm untill now very pleased by how it rides... Never go back to old school geo!
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... Never go back to old school geo!...
Really ? Is the difference that big ?
I look forward to try this !
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... Never go back to old school geo!...
Really ? Is the difference that big ?
I look forward to try this !
I won't... For me the difference is there. I think it's a combination of lower BB, shorter chainstay and the slack HTA and steep STA. It makes this bike more lifely and a better steerer than my canyon is. Even on the flat I like it more than my old, for me it's a better fit. Can keep speeds easier. Didn't expected this. I like it.
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Thank you for the feedback. All very helpful.
@Medico: the PM M7007 frame is already quite on par with the 'longer, lower, slacker' trend. I ride it in size XL with a 120mm fork and 50mm stem, and in that configuration the M7007 then has an HTA of 68 degrees and a reach of approximately 480mm. That is slacker and (much) longer than most XC bikes of today.
The Carbonda FM936 / NS Synonymous with 120mm fork has a reach or 491mm in size L and 511mm in size XL. As mentioned, I am sitting already quite stretched but nicely balanced on my XL M7007. So based on that, a size L of the Carbonza FM936 would be the better choice for me over the - another 20mm longer - size XL.
However, the seat tube of the XL M7007 has a (sufficient) length of 520 mm, but that of the FM936 in size L is only 490 mm.
In short, I am faced with a dilemma: do I go for a size L because of the familiar M7007 frame length, but perhaps too short a seat tube (for a dropper post and sufficient saddle high). Or will I go for a even more stretched out body position on an FM936 in size XL, but with a slightly longer seat tube (and even longer wheelbase, which probably has a negative effect on tight, curvy single tracks in the Benelux where I usually drive)?
Greetings!
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Jerry, whats your height ?
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Jerry, whats your height ?
198 cm tall. However, due to an injury sensitive back and neck, I like sitting a little more upright and not to stretched out (whereby my arms and wrists endure a lot of body pressure at riding).
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Jerry, whats your height ?
198 cm tall. However, due to an injury sensitive back and neck, I like sitting a little more upright and not to stretched out (whereby my arms and wrists endure a lot of body pressure at riding).
With such tall height I would not even think about L size. Only XL, some short stem and hi rise handlebar if you want more upright.
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Jerry, whats your height ?
198 cm tall. However, due to an injury sensitive back and neck, I like sitting a little more upright and not to stretched out (whereby my arms and wrists endure a lot of body pressure at riding).
With such tall height I would not even think about L size. Only XL, some short stem and hi rise handlebar if you want more upright.
I appreciate and feel your instand choice for a size XL at a body height longer than 195 cm. I also like to take a somewhat different vision at it (based on the M7007 that I have already trusted).
Not too long ago, a reach of + 500 mm was unthinkable for an XC / light trail bike. And if they already existed, they were marked as a size XXL or even XXXL. Don't get me wrong, I am very enthusiastic about the 'longer, lower, slacker'-approach of modern frame manufacturers. Therefor my choice for the M7007 at the time.
However, in view of the rapid development in this geometry area, I wonder at the same time: is there such a thing as a frame that is too long for its rider? Perhaps in particular in the XC / light trail discipline.
Purely by feeling, I tend to choose a size L. But as I said before, I doubt about the rather short seat tube or only 490 mm.
Anyways, perhaps it is wise to also contact NS Bikes with the question of which frame size they recommend for someone taller than 195 cm.
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... Anyways, perhaps it is wise to also contact NS Bikes with the question of which frame size they recommend for someone taller than 195 cm...
I'm always in the middle of two sizes too, but between M & L
Draw the geometry of the bike( I use sketchup for that ).
Get the geo, or measure your existing bike, the one you know you can do long ride with no, or almost no pain and draw it too, to compare.
Play with the stem length, stem spacers/bar height, saddle offset, compare reach/stack.
Usually one size will look better doing so.
When asking Canyon for sizing about a road bike, they were telling me M.
But with my yearly mileage and short torso, an S could do it...
The person who will answer you at NS Bikes, may give you some experienced hints, so definitely good to try.
But will probably guess something instead, that may be right or not for you.
I didn't start yet, but I'm afraid it won't be easy for me to choose between an M or L here either due to the geo difference.
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Thanks to all of you on this thread for posting up about this frame. Great info!
I like everything about it except the rear part of the rear triangle.
I really like the rear triangle that NS Bikes has tooled through Carbonda and will see what Carbonda says about licensing issues, tooling costs, etc.
I hope this is a good alternative to the Light Carbon 937, the only other really long and slack XC/Trail-style FS bike on the factory-direct market. My LCFS937 was so fun but had some issues with the linkage.
Stevens still hasn't come out with their bike. Do you think they killed the project after NS went live with the Synonym?
Have any of you had any issues with your linkage or shock mounts? Any wiggles, squeaks, creaks, or unwanted flex?
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Thanks to all of you on this thread for posting up about this frame. Great info!
I like everything about it except the rear part of the rear triangle.
I really like the rear triangle that NS Bikes has tooled through Carbonda and will see what Carbonda says about licensing issues, tooling costs, etc.
I hope this is a good alternative to the Light Carbon 937, the only other really long and slack XC/Trail-style FS bike on the factory-direct market. My LCFS937 was so fun but had some issues with the linkage.
Stevens still hasn't come out with their bike. Do you think they killed the project after NS went live with the Synonym?
Have any of you had any issues with your linkage or shock mounts? Any wiggles, squeaks, creaks, or unwanted flex?
After a 200km of rides no sqeeks or other issues. Compared to my other bike the rear is much stiffer which isn't a suprise without an extra linkage/bearing there. This is even without a real boost wheel in it, i'm using spacers!
The shock mount was quite tight, which I've been told,should be like that.
Overall I'm happy with it.
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I really like the rear triangle that NS Bikes has tooled through Carbonda and will see what Carbonda says about licensing issues, tooling costs, etc.
Stevens still hasn't come out with their bike. Do you think they killed the project after NS went live with the Synonym?
About ns bikes i found this when trying to find reviews of their bike : https://mtb-xc.pl/2019/07/04/rower-gorski-z-przyszlosci-ns-bikes-synonym-2020/
This is what a guy probably in touch with NS said :
"Szymon Kobyliński (7Anna):
The bike was indeed designed and developed 100% by NS Bikes, but we allowed several companies to use our front triangle to reduce costs (carbon forms are extremely expensive, and here we have as many as 4 sizes). So in the future there will be several bikes with similar geometry. But the rear, suspension, rocker etc. are unique to NS Bikes."
Probably stevens has not made enough testing to lauch their now.
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Thanks Medico and numberzero for your insights!
Here's what I just heard from Adam at Carbonda:
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Thanks for your email.
Re. the NS bike rear triangle,we can not offer it for you as it's NS bike's mold.
If you wanna create a similar rear triangle mold,the cost details as bellow:
4000USD for rear triangle
3000USD for the link
And batch order price details as bellow:
Super light version:720USD
normal weight version:580USD
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I'm definitely not opening a rear triangle at these prices, I know of several places that will do it for under USD2500 total. Neither am I going to buy a super light version, that's just too little weight savings for too much money. T800 carbon isn't that much more expensive than T700 carbon, and the layup complexity is the same (albeit different). For example, other vendors charge +$75 for their T800 vs. T700 models.
I would like to believe NS bikes story, and it defintely sounds the best in terms of their brands' status and capabilities, but I have several doubts:
- Carbonda has full-time engineers that oversee all mold tooling design
- Carbonda subcontracts engineers to corporations to design new frames
- Smaller brands commonly open new rear triangles and linkages to throw on open mold frames, as a elatively cheap way of getting proprietary models
If I could speculate, I would consider it much more likely that NS Bikes pledged X number of sales to Carbonda on terms they opened a mold with Y geometry numbers according to a general aesthetic layout. In the eyes of NS marketing folks, that contribution may consitute "design". Then, because Carbonda was the company actually paying for the mold, they agreed to keep the front triangle proprietary and Carbonda went off on their own to publish it as an in-house option. I'm not just pulling this hypothesis out of the blue, this is the way a lot of agents try to cajole you into opening a new mold with them--you promise X sales, I'll promise mold tooling, and you get some proprietary parts and I get license to some parts.
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...I'm definitely not opening a rear triangle at these prices...
Interesting to know a bit more on how all this works, thank you for sharing this.
What does "opening a mold" means ? Build it ?
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...I'm definitely not opening a rear triangle at these prices...
What does "opening a mold" means ? Build it ?
No, you pay Carbonda in-house engineers to draw up a new rear triangle in CAD, then in the case of Carbonda they would subcontract a CNC machine shop to mill a clamshell mold to the specs in the CAD file. The machined clamshell mold is now stored by Carbonda, but legally licensed to you, and any infringing activity by Carbonda could be pursued in court.
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A few folks have reached out to me to see if I could pass on a lower price on this frame. Just order directly from Carbonda please.
I settled on a price with Adam at Carbonda for one-off sales. It's just $30-$50 lower than what they are quoting other people, and just $20-$30 higher than their bulk price. It's surprising to me there is so little room for negotiation in their prices, which are fairly high to begin with. Hopefully that means this is quality stuff.
The frame is in stock and ready to ship, so it should be fairly quick.
Anyone pulling the trigger will want to do so soon, before the Chinese holiday season arrives (that includes shipping time, as shipping is delayed over holidays too).
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Placed an order for a medium super light last night and they did confirm that it will be shipped out before the holidays, but we're covered in snow for months anyways. I'm going to swap over all of my parts from my Promance M7007-II. Fox 34 120mm, Light Bicycle 30mm ID wheels, OneUp 150mm dropper, 11-speed XTR shifter, XT mech, e13 9-46t, XTR crankset with Stages power meter, etc. Definitely a bit of a "down-country" build as our local "XC" races often descend EWS stages.
Has anybody found a 165x42.5 with a remote lock-out? Thought about trying that , but it looks like Fox doesn't make one in that size with a remote (retail at least). Reading the reviews, sounds like I'd leave it in the middle setting most of the time thereby negating the advantage of a Factory DPS (over the Performance) as it just adds open mode adjustment.
Leaning toward ordering this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2018-Fox-Performance-DPS-165-x-42-5-Float-Mtb-Shock-Trunnion-3-Pos-Adjust-/143042612579
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I have a 165x45 fox performance for sale $85. It was my back up shock just selling because I need a couple bucks more for my Hero fork.
I don't know how hard it would be to put a travel spacer in to change it to 42.5 stroke.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153791732772
Also will have a 95% new Hans Dampf 2 29x2.3 addix soft for $35 shipped.
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Thanks ReverendRockRazor, but I decided just to order the DPS as it's new and the right size.
Can somebody post a link to the upper (non Trunnion side) hardware that I need to mount a Fox shock? Bit confused. Thanks!
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Np i sold it anyway. Good luck with your build.
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Can somebody post a link to the upper (non Trunnion side) hardware that I need to mount a Fox shock? Bit confused. Thanks!
https://www.bike-components.de/de/Fox-Racing-Shox/Aluminium-Einbaubuchsenset-8-mm-5-teilig-p32318/
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this was a great read and more than likely my next bike. is the shock mount kit 22.2mm...? thx
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this was a great read and more than likely my next bike. is the shock mount kit 22.2mm...? thx
Yes, it is shown earlier in this topic.
Good luck.
Ps rs deluxe is also an option.
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This looks like a nice frame, I'm also considering ordering one. I like the slack headtube angle and the design. I am about 190 cm tall and I've been wondering if the XL is too long. It seems to be one size up compared to most other frames. I do not want to sit too stretched out, and I do not have especially long arms for my length. Also a bit worried about the seat tube angle. I guess such a steep angle works better for steep uphill than more flat terrain? I've previously had some issues with knee pain if the seat is too far to the front, so I usually use setback seatposts. Unfortunately there is not that many dropper posts with much setback. If I would mount a 120mm fork and a 165x40 shock that would give me a slacker seat angle. I would like to use the bike for trail riding and some occasional xc- and marathon racing, and would like to have a remote lockout for the rear shock. I am also having difficulties finding one. I have found no 165x42.5 that includes a remote. But I have found one 165x40 that does:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SR-SUNTOUR-UNAIR-RL-R-Rear-Shock-With-Remote-Control-Blow-off-System-165x40mm/143089253150?hash=item2150c8bb1e:g:keMAAOSwP9Jb9PFo
I have no idea if this is a good shock for this bike or not. Any opinions out there?
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If you haven't ridden a bike with "modern" upright geometry I suggest you do. The steep seat tube angles make reach feel much shorter (effective reach?) so it doesn't offer a direct comparison to older geometry bikes. If you have a store nearby pedal something around the parking at least if possible. If not, I wouldn't worry too much if you were already happy on a true cross country fit in an XL before.
The downsides of this modern geometry are:
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The downsides of this modern geometry are:... :o
I'm definitely interested to know how your story ends ;)
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The downsides of this modern geometry are:... :o
I'm definitely interested to know how your story ends ;)
I Can answer it:. None!
Seriously... Can't think of any...because of the seattube angle and the long reach, the effective seattube stays the same... Personally I ride more efficient with this frame compared with my old one (canyon nerve) on flat Dutch terrain.
But you have to try it your self.
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Oh man! My massive, massive, edit didn't save yesterday.
First off, If you've used a negative rise stem full on XC race bike then you'll feel somewhat at home here.
I changed "downsides" to considerations, as for some they will be problematic but you can make adjustments to compensate and solve these but some people will face issues which can't always be assessed right away or riding.
1. The biggest issue that some will face is that as seat tube angles go beyond 75 degrees or so, there's a chance that some will experience knee issues from increased forward pressure and the reduction of the angle of your legs. It puts more force in to your knees so certain people will experience knee pain. We are going to see more of this over time, as it might not become apparent for a while. The 'free' solution is to move your seat to the back of the rails, or you can use an offset seat post. Both of these things reduce the steep seat angle and maybe defeat the whole point of the steep seat tube angle. Instead you should swap to shorter cranks if you think this might be an issue or it becomes an issue over time. If you're building frame up, I dont think there's any disadvantage to use 5mm shorter cranks than you would on a traditional bike.
2. you need a longer stroke dropper post to get the same feel as an older style bike. Just a note.
3. Forward hand pressure/arm/shoulder pressure could be a problem for riders that prefer a relaxed fit. This new school geo puts similar forward leans to negative rise XC bikes, but with slight riser bars and stems rather than flat bars and upside down stems. So some less athletic riders will get tired faster or experience hand/arm/shoulder discomfort. This can be remedied with riser bars, shorter stems, riser stems (who uses these on real bikes though?), and in an extreme example, going to a frame size down (which people do to themselves all the time, for better or worse).
As you can see, they can all be dealt with, but if you've never touched a 'new school' bike then they're worth keeping in mind. Most young/apathetic people wont have any issues whatsoever, but if you've had injuries in the past or similar you could run in to problems.
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Anybody have a contact at Carbonda besides Adam that might be working? Sent payment on Jan 9th, they shipped (EMS to Canada) on 17th, but it was returned to sender on the 20th for some reason and I haven't heard any response from Carbonda since then.
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Anybody have a contact at Carbonda besides Adam that might be working? Sent payment on Jan 9th, they shipped (EMS to Canada) on 17th, but it was returned to sender on the 20th for some reason and I haven't heard any response from Carbonda since then.
Normally Adam (I dont think there is an 'Adam', but ok) replies quick. Sometimes it will take a day or two, but now it is the start of holliday time there and it could take untill beginning of february before they're back.
Maybe you can check the website for the skype adres of Adam.
And dont worry, the aftersales is really good...they will reply and send you your frame
Good luck
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Figured that was the case... not in a giant rush, but did want it shipped out before their holidays. Hopefully get it before the race season starts in March.
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I bought this frame the other day.
It size is M and I am 177 cm tall.
I also had it painted.
It uses Shimano / Sram mix components, SR Suntour 120mm boost fork and SR Suntour trunnion mount 165mm x 40mm R shock units.
The wheelset is hand assembled by me, XT hubs and Carbon Rims. And It equipped GIANT dropper seatpost 125mm.
The bike weight is just 12 kilograms without pedals, and bottle cage.
There was no major problem with the assembly.
The assembly work went very smoothly.
I haven't ride on the trail yet, but I'm going to the trail on February so I want to write my impressions.
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I bought this frame the other day.
It size is M and I am 177 cm tall.
I also had it painted.
I'm 1cm taller but with long legs... and considering the M too
What stem length did you choose?
Is it the normal or the lighter one ?
Did you weight the frame painted ?
Nice color :)
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I bought this frame the other day.
It size is M and I am 177 cm tall.
I also had it painted.
I'm 1cm taller but with long legs... and considering the M too
What stem length did you choose?
Is it the normal or the lighter one ?
Did you weight the frame painted ?
Nice color :)
I have short legs :'(
My position, the length from bb to saddle top is 680mm.
The stem length is 45mm, and handlebar width 700mm, There is no discomfort in town riding.
It is normal weight, but sorry I dont weighed it.
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I bought this frame the other day.
It size is M and I am 177 cm tall.
I also had it painted.
I'm 1cm taller but with long legs... and considering the M too
What stem length did you choose?
Is it the normal or the lighter one ?
Did you weight the frame painted ?
Nice color :)
I have short legs :'(
My position, the length from bb to saddle top is 680mm.
The stem length is 45mm, and handlebar width 700mm, There is no discomfort in town riding.
It is normal weight, but sorry I dont weighed it.
And I'm a bit shorter 1,74 but also a medium with a stem of 35mm and a bar of 780mm...
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I have short legs :'(
My position, the length from bb to saddle top is 680mm.
The stem length is 45mm, and handlebar width 700mm, There is no discomfort in town riding.
It is normal weight, but sorry I dont weighed it.
And I'm a bit shorter 1,74 but also a medium with a stem of 35mm and a bar of 780mm...
Thank you both, for the info.
Wow... 780mm, that is a wide bar!
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I bought this frame the other day.
It size is M and I am 177 cm tall.
I also had it painted.
I'm 1cm taller but with long legs... and considering the M too
What stem length did you choose?
Is it the normal or the lighter one ?
Did you weight the frame painted ?
Nice color :)
I have short legs :'(
My position, the length from bb to saddle top is 680mm.
The stem length is 45mm, and handlebar width 700mm, There is no discomfort in town riding.
It is normal weight, but sorry I dont weighed it.
That looks really nice!
Wonder if you could get the measurement from the top center of the seatpost saddle clamp to the top center of the headtube? Thanks
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For those that have purchased, how or which site did you buy from...? thx
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For those that have purchased, how or which site did you buy from...? thx
At the carbonda site mentioned at the startpost...the inquiry button
Good luck
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Let us know if you get a response. My frame was returned to sender by EMS over two weeks ago and I have not been able to get in contact with Carbonda since then.
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yeah i got quotes really fast two weeks ago (prior to Chinese holiday) and then contacted Adam this past Sun Feb 2nd (their Mon) to move fwd with purchase. he responded asking for my address right away (which i responded) but i have not heard from him since... today being Wed feb 5th. and i emailed him again yesterday for status.
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They have extended the holidays because of the Corona virus.
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Pinkbike has written a short test of the twin brother, the NSbikes Synonym.
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/ns-bikes-synonym-tr1-review.html
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Pinkbike has written a short test of the twin brother, the NSbikes Synonym.
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/ns-bikes-synonym-tr1-review.html
It's even better...the same author has a youtube channel making a vid of this bike and topic after I send him a reply about the ns bike review...lol
https://youtu.be/Jqb_hHcVgTI
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David Arthur is a regular contributor of road.cc (http://road.cc)
It is funny how mysterious -- buying direct from China -- is to him.
Luckily he starts with Carbonda, which in my experience are amongst the best built and finished frames.
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A link to the video
And also that 1800 gram super light frame and its geo is calling me...and i just got done building my lcfs958. Dammit.
Does anyone know if its possible to put a 165x45 on it and get it to 130mm?
Edit from reading the thread a medium super light is little over 1900grams. Also i see 165x45 is a no go? So what is the rear travel with a 42.5 vs 40mm stroke?
And last if i put a offset bushing in reverse would that be enough for the 45mm stroke to not hit the seat tube? And what is the travel with a 165x45 shock?
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Offset bushings don't really work in reverse unfortunately. They have a tendency to rotate to the slacker positioning in short order, so it won't really work for very long.
You can't determine the exact travel when swapping a 42.5 to a 45 because you have to take axle path in to account, and most bikes don't move through their travel relative to shock stroke in a linear manner. So it's kinda unpredictable exactly how much more travel you'll get. You can do a simple approximation but it isn't elegant and won't really get you the answer you want.
The inelegant way is that 45mm is roughly 6% more than 42.5. So that's approximately 127mm of travel. But as I said, that's an approximation and the math will work better for some frames than others.
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Most manufacturers have a 165X45 at 120mm of suspension and 165X40 and 110 so that leave 165X42.5 at 115. 115 to me would be fine with 130 mm fork in front. Similar to Giant Trance 29..a decent trail bike.
diycarbonbikes.com lists this frame which looks similar and sells in both a regular 165X38 version and a trunnion version.
https://www.diycarbonbikes.com/collections/fullsuspensionframes/products/copy-of-2018-27-5-dcb-xct27-doctrine-style-carbon-mtb-frame?variant=31391711297616
With the Carbonda frame some riders said the 45 fit on it but the top of the shock linkage was close to touching the seat tube.
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About shock size :
165x42,5 fits, you have a few millimeters space between seatstays arch and seat tube.
165x45 doesn't fit, at full travel the arch is touching the seat tube.
All these informations were confirmed to me by carbonda.
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Does a shock with piggy back fits?
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About shock size :
165x42,5 fits, you have a few millimeters space between seatstays arch and seat tube.
See also my pics a few pages ago with 165x 42.5 shock...does fit wit more than enough room...
Do also think a piggy bag will fit, but haven't tried it
165x45 doesn't fit, at full travel the arch is touching the seat tube.
All these informations were confirmed to me by carbonda.
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Most manufacturers have a 165X45 at 120mm of suspension and 165X40 and 110 so that leave 165X42.5 at 115. 115 to me would be fine with 130 mm fork in front. Similar to Giant Trance 29..a decent trail bike.
diycarbonbikes.com lists this frame which looks similar and sells in both a regular 165X38 version and a trunnion version.
https://www.diycarbonbikes.com/collections/fullsuspensionframes/products/copy-of-2018-27-5-dcb-xct27-doctrine-style-carbon-mtb-frame?variant=31391711297616
With the Carbonda frame some riders said the 45 fit on it but the top of the shock linkage was close to touching the seat tube.
Ive already built that frame up. Its the same as a fs027 from miracle bike.
I liked it and thats what led me to build my Lightcarbon 958.
I really really like flexstay designs but they are very dependent on shock tune.
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Never heard back from Carbonda since my frame was returned to sender (shipped to Canada via EMS), but just picked it up from the post office today. Looks like it was mailed on Feb 6 and got here Feb 10, pretty quick and didn't get charged customs/duties/taxes at all.
Should have everything to build it, but need a few feet of snow to melt.
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Great news, Spec47...! pls keep us updated. looks like they're still laying low in china due to the virus...
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Medico how much travel do you have in the fork? which fork?
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(https://i.imgur.com/MMGuZnL.jpg?1)
Just unboxed it and I'm impressed with the quality so far. Medium SL version seems to come in at 1860g.
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Medico how much travel do you have in the fork? which fork?
Do you mean shock? Rs deluxe rct 165x42,5
And front fox float 120mm but when my new carbon nexties arive it will be a DVO sapphire d1 120mm
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Ty at Diycarbonbikes.com states their DCBF110 Scott Spark Style frame if ordered in trunnion mount version can accept a 165X45 mm shock with NO clearance issues.
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(https://i.imgur.com/MMGuZnL.jpg?1)
Just unboxed it and I'm impressed with the quality so far. Medium SL version seems to come in at 1860g.
Is it... Is it built already ? :D
I look forward for your build, are you going for light components too ?
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(https://i.imgur.com/gBUVdwU.jpg)
Put the bike together last night (although rear brake caliper mount bolts aren't threading in), but still have a lot of little stuff to take care of. Pretty aggressive looking for an XC bike IMO.
25lbs on the bathroom scale with pedals (Pinkbike article had the $6k EUR build at just over 27lbs without pedals), but certainly not a weight weenie build and didn't really make any compromises for weight. May consider upgrading to Step Cast fork, lighter Light Bicycle wheel build, and possibly a OneUp V2 170mm dropper.
Hoping to race the first Canada Cup XCO event at the end of March, but don't think I'll be able to take it for a test ride soon.
Fox Float 34 Performance Elite 120mm fork
Fox Float DPS Evol Performance 16x142.5 shock
Light Bicycle 29C07 30mm ID carbon rims on DT Swiss 350S hubs
Maxxis Forekaster EXO 2.35/Maxxis Ikon EXO 2.35 (putting Aspen 2.25 on)
Formula Cura brakes with 160mm rotors
OneUp V1 150mm dropper post with V2 metal remote
Shimano M9020 XTR crankset (polished) with Stages power meter
OneUp 30T oval chainring
Shimano M9000 XTR shifter
Shimano M8000 XT derailleur
e13 TRSr 9-46t cassette
SRAM X1 chain
Exustar E-PM215Ti pedals
Cane Creek 40 headset
Shimano XTR bottom bracket
Wren stem 50mm (may swap for Kalloy 40mm)
Chromag Cutlass carbon bars
Chromag Squarewave grips
Chinese saddle (new carbon saddle in the mail)
Chinese carbon seatclamp post
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Put the bike together last night (although rear brake caliper mount bolts aren't threading in), but still have a lot of little stuff to take care of. Pretty aggressive looking for an XC bike IMO.
25lbs on the bathroom scale with pedals (Pinkbike article had the $6k EUR build at just over 27lbs without pedals), but certainly not a weight weenie build and didn't really make any compromises for weight. May consider upgrading to Step Cast fork, lighter Light Bicycle wheel build, and possibly a OneUp V2 170mm dropper.
Hoping to race the first Canada Cup XCO event at the end of March, but don't think I'll be able to take it for a test ride soon.
Fox Float 34 Performance Elite 120mm fork
Fox Float DPS Evol Performance 16x142.5 shock
Light Bicycle 29C07 30mm ID carbon rims on DT Swiss 350S hubs
Maxxis Forekaster EXO 2.35/Maxxis Ikon EXO 2.35 (putting Aspen 2.25 on)
Formula Cura brakes with 160mm rotors
OneUp V1 150mm dropper post with V2 metal remote
Shimano M9020 XTR crankset (polished) with Stages power meter
OneUp 30T oval chainring
Shimano M9000 XTR shifter
Shimano M8000 XT derailleur
e13 TRSr 9-46t cassette
SRAM X1 chain
Exustar E-PM215Ti pedals
Cane Creek 40 headset
Shimano XTR bottom bracket
Wren stem 50mm (may swap for Kalloy 40mm)
Chromag Cutlass carbon bars
Chromag Squarewave grips
Chinese saddle (new carbon saddle in the mail)
Chinese carbon seatclamp post
Verrry interested in your thoughts on this once you get to ride. I'm prepping to do a build as well.
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Pretty aggressive looking for an XC bike IMO.
Thanks for the details.
Why do you think it looks agressive ? For the angles?
I find it looks definitely cool 8)
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66 degree head angle with a 120mm fork is pretty agressive.
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(https://i.imgur.com/gBUVdwU.jpg)
Put the bike together last night (although rear brake caliper mount bolts aren't threading in), but still have a lot of little stuff to take care of. Pretty aggressive looking for an XC bike IMO.
25lbs on the bathroom scale with pedals (Pinkbike article had the $6k EUR build at just over 27lbs without pedals), but certainly not a weight weenie build and didn't really make any compromises for weight. May consider upgrading to Step Cast fork, lighter Light Bicycle wheel build, and possibly a OneUp V2 170mm dropper.
Hoping to race the first Canada Cup XCO event at the end of March, but don't think I'll be able to take it for a test ride soon.
Fox Float 34 Performance Elite 120mm fork
Fox Float DPS Evol Performance 16x142.5 shock
Light Bicycle 29C07 30mm ID carbon rims on DT Swiss 350S hubs
Maxxis Forekaster EXO 2.35/Maxxis Ikon EXO 2.35 (putting Aspen 2.25 on)
Formula Cura brakes with 160mm rotors
OneUp V1 150mm dropper post with V2 metal remote
Shimano M9020 XTR crankset (polished) with Stages power meter
OneUp 30T oval chainring
Shimano M9000 XTR shifter
Shimano M8000 XT derailleur
e13 TRSr 9-46t cassette
SRAM X1 chain
Exustar E-PM215Ti pedals
Cane Creek 40 headset
Shimano XTR bottom bracket
Wren stem 50mm (may swap for Kalloy 40mm)
Chromag Cutlass carbon bars
Chromag Squarewave grips
Chinese saddle (new carbon saddle in the mail)
Chinese carbon seatclamp post
Very nice build Spec47.
Wondering if you could give me 2 measurements from that pic: Center BB to saddle rail at center of post and then that saddle rail at center of post to center of headtube? Thanks
I'm between sizes and leaning large, but the medium might have enough cockpit length. Although I'm guessing with the steeper seat tube I'd need a longish stem and I really prefer the quicker steering of a shorter stem.
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wfl3, BB to saddle rail is 726mm and other measurement to center (of top of HT) is 660mm.
I am always on the borderline at 5'10" (and like +0.5 ape index) between M and L and told myself that I would definitely get a L for my next bike, but this was such a large medium. I've been on 40-50mm stems for 5 years or so.
Bike is ready to go and I'll be on the trails Wednesday hopefully, but I think I made the right choice with a medium.
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wfl3, BB to saddle rail is 726mm and other measurement to center (of top of HT) is 660mm.
I am always on the borderline at 5'10" (and like +0.5 ape index) between M and L and told myself that I would definitely get a L for my next bike, but this was such a large medium. I've been on 40-50mm stems for 5 years or so.
Bike is ready to go and I'll be on the trails Wednesday hopefully, but I think I made the right choice with a medium.
Thanks for the info and damn that's bigger than I expected for the medium!!!!
I'm the same height as you and always upsize because I prefer a longer TT. I'm on a large Signal Peak right now with a 60mm stem and expected a large FM936 with the steeper seat tube angle would give me a similar cockpit dimension with a 50-60mm stem. Looks like I need to re-assess my thoughts on the large. ;-)
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so i guess we're sol in terms of buying one until Carbona Co is back to work...? damn coronavirus... anyone speculate on when that may be...?
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I've got news from lightbicycle.com (http://lightbicycle.com) today.
Everybody there seem to have received from the government an additional vacation week, on top of the planned Jan 18th to Feb 2nd. So Feb 9th.
They were not allowed to go outside but for buying food. Parks were closed. So they stayed home for 2-3 weeks. :-[
And as from Feb 10th few of them are back to work, as most people outside the cities can only come back after a 14 days quarantine.
And this week, it starts to get back to normal, while not totally. Wow...
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thanks for update.
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(https://i.imgur.com/TULe4Gy.jpg?1)
Finally got the new bike out for a quick shakedown ride and I'm really happy with it so far. I ended up putting my 40mm stem on before taking it out and think I'll be keeping it on there. Medium feels great for my height at 5'10".
I was taking it easy on the climbs today, but it's the steepest STA bike I've ever ridden. I'm used to sliding to the nose of the saddle for steep climbs and it's simply not necessary on this bike. I was worried about not being able to reach the shock lever while riding, but didn't move it at all from open (after setting it up at 25% sag). I'll have to see how things go at race pace, but I didn't feel the need for a lockout today.
Descending, it definitely likes to be ridden aggressively with a lot of weight on the front wheel. I'm used to riding my enduro bike like that, but not my XC. That being said, I went over some steep rolls/slabs and it felt just as confident as my 160mm Santa Cruz (same HTA, but significantly shorter reach).
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Finally got the new bike out for a quick shakedown ride and I'm really happy with it so far. I ended up putting my 40mm stem on before taking it out and think I'll be keeping it on there. Medium feels great for my height at 5'10".
....
How wide are your handlebars? I'm 5'9 so trying to get an idea of feel. I have pretty long arms/torso.
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750 or 760, cut them a long time ago so not positive
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Anyone able to find a shock with remote for this frame? 165x42.5 Trunnion Remote sizes are listed for both Rock Shox Deluxe and Super Deluxe, but apparently it's not available to retail (and of course the Fox DPS used in the NS Bikes, but that's not even listed on the Fox site)
Would a shock with piggyback even fit in the frame?
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...I'm used to sliding to the nose of the saddle for steep climbs and it's simply not necessary on this bike...
... I didn't feel the need for a lockout today.
...I went over some steep rolls/slabs and it felt just as confident as my 160mm Santa Cruz...
I'm 5'10 too, except a long reach for my short torso, this frame definitely doesn't look to have any defect ;D
I look forward for your race impressions.
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Anyone able to find a shock with remote for this frame? 165x42.5 Trunnion Remote sizes are listed for both Rock Shox Deluxe and Super Deluxe, but apparently it's not available to retail (and of course the Fox DPS used in the NS Bikes, but that's not even listed on the Fox site)
Would a shock with piggyback even fit in the frame?
DT Swiss is now making one in 168x40 and 168x45 but not 168x42.5.
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Fox will rebuild any of their 165 trunnion shocks into 165x42.5 with remote, you just have to send it to them. All of their 165 trunnion shocks are the same physical 45 mm length stroke shock. The 42.5 mm stroke shock has a 2.5 mm spacer, the 40 mm stroke has a 5 mm spacer.
Ideal situation is find a blown Fox 165 trunnon - any of the three lengths - on Ebay or classifieds ad list for cheap, then send off to Fox for a rebuild. The rebuild will cost right about $200 in parts and labor to have the trunnion head switched over to the remote lockout head, they have to do a rebuild on the shock anyway because that head is replaced. They will also swap to the 2.5 mm spacer.
I have a shock with them right now doing this very thing for my frame.
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...I'm used to sliding to the nose of the saddle for steep climbs and it's simply not necessary on this bike...
... I didn't feel the need for a lockout today.
...I went over some steep rolls/slabs and it felt just as confident as my 160mm Santa Cruz...
I'm 5'10 too, except a long reach for my short torso, this frame definitely doesn't look to have any defect ;D
I look forward for your race impressions.
Same here, 5'10" but 5' 11.5" wingspan. Reach wise the med look about perfect at 475, but 24" for the ETT seems a bit short - I know the ST is steep but is it possible one of those numbers on the geo chart is wrong?
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Has anyone tried routing the der & brake line under the trunnion mount like the NS Synonym? Looks like the chainstay ports are exactly the same on both bikes (location & shape) even though the Synonym uses a slightly different rear triangle.
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I am new here but learning a lot. My question about this particular bike is that I'm considering getting it for my son as a new race bike. He is 12 and is 5ft 1". Currently riding a small 15.5" trek Excalibre. He is rapidly outgrowing the bike. Was originally going to replace it with a medium tideace one of our coaches has this bike and size and he has riden it and he is right at the size that he could get by with a medium tideace hard tail. That being said some of what I have read of this bike is that it seems it might be sized a bit larger than average. So does anyone here have and input or first hand knowledge if a 5'1" kid could a ride a medium with proper tweaking and adjustment? Looking for any input or thoughts
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No way a 5'1" rider would be happy riding a medium FM936. I'm 9" taller with a 40mm stem and it's a comfortable fit for me.
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No way a 5'1" rider would be happy riding a medium FM936. I'm 9" taller with a 40mm stem and it's a comfortable fit for me.
I'm 5"8 and with a 35mm stem on the lower range of a medium. I would never buy a mtb for my kids to large. It's more difficult to manouvre and most of the time heavier, they're not adults so lack strenght. I would rather keep a bit to small frame than one to big.just my 2c.
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Finally stopped thinking about it and ordered up a medium. :-)
Got a Fox 165x40 on the way, assume I'll need the 8mm 22.2 bushing kit for the upper mount.
Anyone know which cane creek headset I'll need (1.5 taper steerer)?
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...Anyone know which cane creek headset I'll need (1.5 taper steerer)?
Here's a 40 set that works for tapered headsets, 110 will have the same numbers:
Cane Creek 40.IS52 Bottom Headset - Lower Part 1.5 Inches - IS52/40
Cane Creek 40.IS42 Top Headset - Upper Part 1 1/8 Inches - IS42/28.6
Frames usually come with a headset like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32868175176.html
Before spending too much money on this part... Think headset bearings will probably never make a full revolution during their entire life (good point from Hambini if I remember well...).
And since it is integrated, there isn't even any aesthetic advantage.
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...Anyone know which cane creek headset I'll need (1.5 taper steerer)?
Here's a 40 set that works for tapered headsets, 110 will have the same numbers:
Cane Creek 40.IS52 Bottom Headset - Lower Part 1.5 Inches - IS52/40
Cane Creek 40.IS42 Top Headset - Upper Part 1 1/8 Inches - IS42/28.6
Frames usually come with a headset like this one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32868175176.html
Before spending too much money on this part... Think headset bearings will probably never make a full revolution during their entire life (good point from Hambini if I remember well...).
And since it is integrated, there isn't even any aesthetic advantage.
Thanks for the info. Yeah, I usually go for the CC Forty headsets nowadays instead of the 110 or King stuff and they seem to hold up just fine.
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What type of frame cable guide came with the FM936 purchaser?
I first came with a guide for two lines. I contacted the manufacturer and found that they also had three lines in stock.
The other day I received the guides for three lines. This is necessary for those who lock out R shocks. If you don't have a guide for 3 lines, you can contact them.
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What fork offset is recommended with this frame? Does it matter much? What does the NS synonym TR have, does anyone know? I have a very light fork that I am considering reusing, but it has 51 mm offset.
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With the head angle and reach i would definitely want a lower offset fork.
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Pretty sure the NS uses a 44mm offset on the RC & TR versions. I have a 44mm offset Fox 32SC 100mm coming for my FM936.
I have a 51mm offset 34SC 120mm on another bike I may try at some point as well.
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Pretty sure the NS uses a 44mm offset on the RC & TR versions. I have a 44mm offset Fox 32SC 100mm coming for my FM936.
I have a 51mm offset 34SC 120mm on another bike I may try at some point as well.
44mm on both the RC (100mm fork) and TR (120 mm fork) version
https://nsbikes.com/synonym-rc-1,427,pl.html
https://nsbikes.com/synonym-tr1,429,pl.html
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I'm running 51mm on Fox 34 120mm fork, but I would suggest reduced offset as well. Front wheel feels a bit 'floppy' at low speeds. Not enough to make me buy a new fork right away, but I think I'll eventually buy a 34 SC with reduced offset.
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Untill last week I used a 51mm fox and now a 44mm dvo sapphire. Only at low speed there is a difference noticable. At higher speed I don't.
So if you need a new fork buy one with less offset, if you allready got one, keep it.
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Medico, can you describe the slow speed difference in feeling...? thx. i.e. l the 51mm feels better for tighter slow speed turning or the opposite...
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The bigger offset feels more twitchy in slow turns. It is a feeling...don't really think its faster or better. I think un a blind test you won't be able to tell de difference.
120mm for Both forks.
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With a 120mm 51mm offset fork you will get the same "feel" as the 100mm 44mm offset fork.
I will use a 120mm with 51mm offset SID
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How's the tire clearance in the back? I'm fond of Bontrager's XR2 2.6, do you think it would fit?
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How's the tire clearance in the back? I'm fond of Bontrager's XR2 2.6, do you think it would fit?
Havent tried it...but don't think so...a 2.35 will be a tight fit
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Still loving the bike but I think I got a real issue.
I'm having play at the driveside lowest pivot point. I can move the rear triangle at the left lower pivotpoint for some milimeters uo and down. It's also a bit noticable during biking, like a slipping reartire.
Already sent carbonda a mail about it... Think there is to much space between the axle and the hole where you put it in.
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I sent Adam at Carbonda an email on Monday. I got an undeliverable error a few hours later. Not sure what's up with that.
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@brex, I've got a message from Wing yesterday at sales1@carbonda.com
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Already got a reply from Adam...im sending him a video about it...
So guys check your lower linkage for play... It will whore out more easy because íts carbon with no bushing or so in it.
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Does anyone knows if a piggyback shock (like the FOX DPX2) will fit in the frame?
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Does anyone knows if a piggyback shock (like the FOX DPX2) will fit in the frame?
Havn't tried it, but think it will fit... A bottle fits in the frame, so why would a piggyback wouldn't.
Another question... How tight is your lower linkage bolted together; howmany newtonmeters?
Just talked with Adam about my issue and ge said he wanted to send me new aluminium parts?! Don't think that will be the answer... He will check it with qc.
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Still loving the bike but I think I got a real issue.
I'm having play at the driveside lowest pivot point. I can move the rear triangle at the left lower pivotpoint for some milimeters uo and down. It's also a bit noticable during biking, like a slipping reartire.
Already sent carbonda a mail about it... Think there is to much space between the axle and the hole where you put it in.
I wonder if anyone else is seeing this? Is it possible the pivot bolt loosened up? Did you put loctite on the pivot bolts?
Hopefully this isn't a design flaw.
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Still loving the bike but I think I got a real issue.
I'm having play at the driveside lowest pivot point. I can move the rear triangle at the left lower pivotpoint for some milimeters uo and down. It's also a bit noticable during biking, like a slipping reartire.
Already sent carbonda a mail about it... Think there is to much space between the axle and the hole where you put it in.
I wonder if anyone else is seeing this? Is it possible the pivot bolt loosened up? Did you put loctite on the pivot bolts?
Hopefully this isn't a design flaw.
Pivot bolts are a bitch to get loose or retighten again...5mm hexbolts aren't designed to handle >10nm especially if they are from cheap aluminium...so I ruined them.
So...think there are 2 options...they tightened the bolts with loctite but at a to low rorque or its a lesser design...
Or I have got bad luck....again
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Does anyone knows if a piggyback shock (like the FOX DPX2) will fit in the frame?
Havn't tried it, but think it will fit... A bottle fits in the frame, so why would a piggyback wouldn't.
Another question... How tight is your lower linkage bolted together; howmany newtonmeters?
Just talked with Adam about my issue and ge said he wanted to send me new aluminium parts?! Don't think that will be the answer... He will check it with qc.
The piggyback will be on the bottom and it seems the frame doesnt have enought space.
The frame is on the way, I hope to receive it next week.
Still loving the bike but I think I got a real issue.
I'm having play at the driveside lowest pivot point. I can move the rear triangle at the left lower pivotpoint for some milimeters uo and down. It's also a bit noticable during biking, like a slipping reartire.
Already sent carbonda a mail about it... Think there is to much space between the axle and the hole where you put it in.
I wonder if anyone else is seeing this? Is it possible the pivot bolt loosened up? Did you put loctite on the pivot bolts?
Hopefully this isn't a design flaw.
Pivot bolts are a bitch to get loose or retighten again...5mm hexbolts aren't designed to handle >10nm especially if they are from cheap aluminium...so I ruined them.
So...think there are 2 options...they tightened the bolts with loctite but at a to low rorque or its a lesser design...
Or I have got bad luck....again
I would try with cheap steel bolts and loctite before anything else.
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Does anyone knows if a piggyback shock (like the FOX DPX2) will fit in the frame?
Havn't tried it, but think it will fit... A bottle fits in the frame, so why would a piggyback wouldn't.
Another question... How tight is your lower linkage bolted together; howmany newtonmeters?
Just talked with Adam about my issue and ge said he wanted to send me new aluminium parts?! Don't think that will be the answer... He will check it with qc.
The piggyback will be on the bottom and it seems the frame doesnt have enought space.
The frame is on the way, I hope to receive it next week.
Still loving the bike but I think I got a real issue.
I'm having play at the driveside lowest pivot point. I can move the rear triangle at the left lower pivotpoint for some milimeters uo and down. It's also a bit noticable during biking, like a slipping reartire.
Already sent carbonda a mail about it... Think there is to much space between the axle and the hole where you put it in.
I wonder if anyone else is seeing this? Is it possible the pivot bolt loosened up? Did you put loctite on the pivot bolts?
Hopefully this isn't a design flaw.
Pivot bolts are a bitch to get loose or retighten again...5mm hexbolts aren't designed to handle >10nm especially if they are from cheap aluminium...so I ruined them.
So...think there are 2 options...they tightened the bolts with loctite but at a to low rorque or its a lesser design...
Or I have got bad luck....again
I would try with cheap steel bolts and loctite before anything else.
Cheap bolts will not fit I think, the need specific form at the end the match the frame... But Adam will mail me after the weekend, he asked the qc department hoe to solve it...hopefully I will get a new rear...
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You can replace the left screw by a steel one.
Something like that with the correct dimensions https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32779413095.html
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You can replace the left screw by a steel one.
Something like that with the correct dimensions https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32779413095.html
Most Chinese screws are not that good in my experience.
It is like they can be screwed a couple of times, and then fail.
A friend has a manufacturing company, and went to outsource to China.
The first thing they told him, was he could save on screw costs, plus many other little details.
Mainly making plenty of elements as single-use quality, which makes sense in general, unless you have some regular maintenance.
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You can replace the left screw by a steel one.
Something like that with the correct dimensions https://www.aliexpress.com/i/32779413095.html
I doubt if it will fit... Looks different.
(https://i.ibb.co/p00q8Hw/IMG-20200320-103206.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dWWZqNM)
(https://i.ibb.co/5426WSw/IMG-20200320-103218.jpg) (https://ibb.co/sRt2vNz)
Hopefully I will hear from Adam about a solution. Like I said...new screws aren't the solution (i think).
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I meant the other screw the one supposed to go in the thing you pictured ;)
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Hi, first post here and I'm interested in this frame as a do it it all trail and xc bike.
Those of you who have one, what shock and tune have you gone with and how does it ride? Looking at the photo from Pinkbike it looks like the stock NS Bike is shipped with the following tune:
2020 Series Float Trunnion
2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Trunnion, Evol LV, PTU, NS Bikes, Synonim, 165, 42.5, 0.6 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CMF, Neutral Logo
It's there an equivalent Rockshox tune? (MM I'm guessing)
The new 35mm SID looks ideal for this frame.
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Hi, first post here and I'm interested in this frame as a do it it all trail and xc bike.
Those of you who have one, what shock and tune have you gone with and how does it ride? Looking at the photo from Pinkbike it looks like the stock NS Bike is shipped with the following tune:
2020 Series Float Trunnion
2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Trunnion, Evol LV, PTU, NS Bikes, Synonim, 165, 42.5, 0.6 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CMF, Neutral Logo
It's there an equivalent Rockshox tune? (MM I'm guessing)
The new 35mm SID looks ideal for this frame.
Hello. I am assembling the suspension for this bike in the following configuration.
F fork:SR Suntour AXON34 Boost RLRC-PCS DS 15QLC2-110 29'' 120mm
R-Shock:SR Suntour Edge RLRC 2-Position Lockout, 165*40mm
I have only ridden at once in the trail, but I am generally satisfied with this configuration.
>The new 35mm SID looks ideal for this frame.
I agree completely!
Since the head angle is quite slack, when the R-shock moves on the climb, the handling is quite stagnant.
The lockout function on the R-shock is a must, and a lever that allows you to lock out the front and rear with just one lever is useful.
I hope you find it helpful.
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Hi, first post here and I'm interested in this frame as a do it it all trail and xc bike.
Those of you who have one, what shock and tune have you gone with and how does it ride? Looking at the photo from Pinkbike it looks like the stock NS Bike is shipped with the following tune:
2020 Series Float Trunnion
2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Trunnion, Evol LV, PTU, NS Bikes, Synonim, 165, 42.5, 0.6 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CMF, Neutral Logo
It's there an equivalent Rockshox tune? (MM I'm guessing)
The new 35mm SID looks ideal for this frame.
Hello. I am assembling the suspension for this bike in the following configuration.
F fork:SR Suntour AXON34 Boost RLRC-PCS DS 15QLC2-110 29'' 120mm
R-Shock:SR Suntour Edge RLRC 2-Position Lockout, 165*40mm
I have only ridden at once in the trail, but I am generally satisfied with this configuration.
>The new 35mm SID looks ideal for this frame.
I agree completely!
Since the head angle is quite slack, when the R-shock moves on the climb, the handling is quite stagnant.
The lockout function on the R-shock is a must, and a lever that allows you to lock out the front and rear with just one lever is useful.
I hope you find it helpful.
I'm not agreeing with you about the need of a lockout. Yes the rear moves...but if you must need a lockout your tuning of your shock is off. I would like you to time your climbs with and without a lockout...I think you will be suprised.
Im using a rs deluxe mm tune fwiw.
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Thanks Medico for your input, how does the tune suit the kinematics, can you leave the shock open most of the time? My main reason for getting this frame is to have an xc bike without remote lockout levers, most bikes have them and I'm not a fan!
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If anyone is interested I saw the tune ID on the Stevens Jura is very similar, looks like they tried slinger stroke shock.
2020 Factory Series Float Trunnion
2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Trunnion, Evol LV, PTU, Stevens, Jura Team, 165, 45, 0.4 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CMF, Orange Logo
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Thanks Medico for your input, how does the tune suit the kinematics, can you leave the shock open most of the time? My main reason for getting this frame is to have an xc bike without remote lockout levers, most bikes have them and I'm not a fan!
On the trail it's full open. I need to bike 15km to the trail over tarmac then I use the peddle option on the shock...but I do forget this quite often..
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Got a medium (superlight vers) delivered today. No issues with any damage, looks perfect.
It's pretty light, just the frame with hanger and the port covers plus all the pre-run tubes for pulling thru the internally routed cables weighed in at 4lbs 1oz. That was with the dummy shock block removed.
Hopefully will start building it up soon. Plan on using it for XC and shorter Endurance races (6hr or under), so going lightweight and 100mm/100mm config. Shooting for sub 23lbs with pedals, cage, etc.
ETA: A little over 4lbs 10oz with the Fox Factory Evol (non-remote) mounted up.
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If anyone is interested I saw the tune ID on the Stevens Jura is very similar, looks like they tried slinger stroke shock.
2020 Factory Series Float Trunnion
2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Trunnion, Evol LV, PTU, Stevens, Jura Team, 165, 45, 0.4 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CMF, Orange Logo
Do not put a 165x45 on the fm936, i said it before the maximum is 165x42,5 confirmed by carbonda!
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Hi, first post here and I'm interested in this frame as a do it it all trail and xc bike.
Those of you who have one, what shock and tune have you gone with and how does it ride? Looking at the photo from Pinkbike it looks like the stock NS Bike is shipped with the following tune:
2020 Series Float Trunnion
2020, FLOAT DPS, F-S, K, Remote Down, Trunnion, Evol LV, PTU, NS Bikes, Synonim, 165, 42.5, 0.6 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CMF, Neutral Logo
It's there an equivalent Rockshox tune? (MM I'm guessing)
The new 35mm SID looks ideal for this frame.
I talked to a local suspension company about this. They said that more important than the tune (DCM,DRM etc.) is to get a shock with the right volume size (i the case above LV - Large Volume). Tune can be adjusted later on (preferably with a shock service).
I went with this one: https://www.ebay.at/itm/Fox-Performance-DPS-165-x-42-5-Float-Mtb-Shock-Trunnion-3-Pos-Adjust/143042612579 as the volume and tune (except climb) is the same as with the NS Bikes and it's pretty cost efficient. Can't say how it performs tough, I don't have the frame yet (and might have to wait a while)
2018, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion Evol LV, Giant, Anthem 27.5 2, 165, 42.5, 0.8 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CML, YS 2272/YS 2272 Logo
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That's a good find, cheaper than the Monarchs I was looking at. I'm not bothered by the climb setting, in fact the lighter climb platform might be a benefit.
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I'd think if you could find a shock that was tuned for a Giant Trance or an Evil the following you'd find just about the right tune but most any fox dps trunnion 165X42.5 will do. I put a Giant tuned performance 165X38 DPS on my Scott spark and it is an amazing shock that is super forgiving, plush and feels never ending! I can switch between settings manually but find myself using open for when I'm bombing sections and medium when i'm traversing roads, climbs, etc, rarely do i put in firm , because it feels bouncy.
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Still loving the bike but I think I got a real issue.
I'm having play at the driveside lowest pivot point. I can move the rear triangle at the left lower pivotpoint for some milimeters uo and down. It's also a bit noticable during biking, like a slipping reartire.
Already sent carbonda a mail about it... Think there is to much space between the axle and the hole where you put it in.
So after some mails with Adam they think it has to do with the spacers between the front and reartriangle.. they'll send me new spacers... Will tell if this will do.
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I'm planning to build this in size Large and looking at a few used items for the build. Would an already cut fork with the steerer at 19cm be enough on a large? What length brake hoses would I need? Thanks
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I'm planning to build this in size Large and looking at a few used items for the build. Would an already cut fork with the steerer at 19cm be enough on a large? What length brake hoses would I need? Thanks
great to hear that Carbonda is doing the customer service correctly. Makes me more confident in ordering one. Please keep us updated
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I'm planning to build this in size Large and looking at a few used items for the build. Would an already cut fork with the steerer at 19cm be enough on a large? What length brake hoses would I need? Thanks
great to hear that Carbonda is doing the customer service correctly. Makes me more confident in ordering one. Please keep us updated
Not sure if sarcasm? I'm asking here in hopes of getting community feedback from people that have hands on experience with the frame. I also find it easier avoiding the language barrier and time difference for more technical questions. This will be my third frame from Carbonda and have had zero issues with them.
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Headtube is 120mm tall on the large so you'll have to measure your stem height and add a bit for the headset/any spacers you want. I'd think any brake hose would work as the internal routing is pretty short. Will also depend on handlebar length, I'd never shorten anything until you have it set up.
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Just received the Medium size frame.
The frame seems to have good quality but with weak finishing in some spots (headset and rocketlink) and soft/weak varnish.
I'm thinking to sand it, fix the imperfections and paint it with a 2K coat.
Problem???:
The rear triangle doesnt have a smooth movement, it has a force to keep it "open".
I already loose the all the bolts and "force" remains. It is normal? Any suggestion?
Weight:
Frame with cable guides and hardware, without rear axle: 2070g
Rear axle: 40g
Headset: 70g (bearings) + 58g (expander and topcap) = 128g
Photos:
https://imgur.com/a/PEYzQ9m
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Just received the Medium size frame.
The frame seems to have good quality but with weak finishing in some spots (headset and rocketlink) and soft/weak varnish.
I'm thinking to sand it, fix the imperfections and paint it with a 2K coat.
Problem???:
The rear triangle doesnt have a smooth movement, it has a force to keep it "open".
I already loose the all the bolts and "force" remains. It is normal? Any suggestion?
Weight:
Frame with cable guides and hardware, without rear axle: 2070g
Rear axle: 40g
Headset: 70g (bearings) + 58g (expander and topcap) = 128g
Photos:
https://imgur.com/a/PEYzQ9m
Sorry but the upper head tube looks really terrible!
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Problem???:
The rear triangle doesnt have a smooth movement, it has a force to keep it "open".
I already loose the all the bolts and "force" remains. It is normal? Any suggestion?
I would expect some resistance when going through the travel since it relies on flex stays.
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Just received the Medium size frame.
The frame seems to have good quality but with weak finishing in some spots (headset and rocketlink) and soft/weak varnish.
I'm thinking to sand it, fix the imperfections and paint it with a 2K coat.
Problem???:
The rear triangle doesnt have a smooth movement, it has a force to keep it "open".
I already loose the all the bolts and "force" remains. It is normal? Any suggestion?
Weight:
Frame with cable guides and hardware, without rear axle: 2070g
Rear axle: 40g
Headset: 70g (bearings) + 58g (expander and topcap) = 128g
Photos:
https://imgur.com/a/PEYzQ9m
Sorry but the upper head tube looks really terrible!
Headtube seems damaged.
And you need some force ti keep the rear triangke open...it should because you don't have a pivotpoint at rear, but flexible stays instead.
I should contact Adam about it...they are quite reasenable about this short issues.
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That is correct about the rear triangle/flex stays, my last bike was the same.
I'd agree with the comments about the headtube, mine certainly didn't look like that.
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Thanks for the inputs, it's my first "flex stays" FS, all others got a pivotpoint on the stays.
I will talk with carbonda about the other issues.
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Looks like a small crack at the top of the headtube.
I'd see if they'll replace that front triangle, if not I'd epoxy that crack. Doesn't seem to be in the bearing seat so epoxy should keep it structurally sound.
Is that a standard weight frame?
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Not sure if sarcasm? I'm asking here in hopes of getting community feedback from people that have hands on experience with the frame. I also find it easier avoiding the language barrier and time difference for more technical questions. This will be my third frame from Carbonda and have had zero issues with them.
No, not sarcasm. I just think it's a good sign that Carbonda is taking care of such issues as yours. It's valuable information to me that you posted your experience.
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Can someone please advise i'm just starting building my size small frame. top mount fox 42.5 with a 22.2 kit seems really tight. don't want to force anything. thx
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nevermind, got it. thx.
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nevermind, got it. thx.
Don't hesitate to post pictures of your build :)
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not quite finished yet... been riding around yard & neighborhood. this thing is a hoot. got a size small, i'm 5'7". x-fusion 34/120 fork, fox float dps 42.5, gx drive, mavic xa elite wheels, niner stem & seatpost, fabric saddle. i ride mostly xc but looking for a bit more comfort these days.
someone had asked a while back about running rear mech through/under shock. yes you can, no problem. forgive my white housing it's all i had. hopefully me pic shows it - had to reduce mb size to fit post.
i need to cut fork and get a new longer rear brake hose.
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might be able to see this pic better. sorry for quality. plan on running new rear brake hose same way on other side.
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I'm planning to build this in size Large and looking at a few used items for the build. Would an already cut fork with the steerer at 19cm be enough on a large? What length brake hoses would I need? Thanks
Yes, you should be fine. I have a large and measured today the bottom of head tube to the top of my stem, which has a half inch of spacers under it. I am pretty close to 19cm.
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Read through this thread multiple time before pulling the trigger, and now my frame is finally here. Weighting in at about 2150g in standard XL.
Most of the components are already in the mail so hopefully first ride is just a week or two away.
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I'm planning to build this in size Large and looking at a few used items for the build. Would an already cut fork with the steerer at 19cm be enough on a large? What length brake hoses would I need? Thanks
Yes, you should be fine. I have a large and measured today the bottom of head tube to the top of my stem, which has a half inch of spacers under it. I am pretty close to 19cm.
Thank you. Would you be able to measure you brake lines too?
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I'm planning to build this in size Large and looking at a few used items for the build. Would an already cut fork with the steerer at 19cm be enough on a large? What length brake hoses would I need? Thanks
Yes, you should be fine. I have a large and measured today the bottom of head tube to the top of my stem, which has a half inch of spacers under it. I am pretty close to 19cm.
Thank you. Would you be able to measure you brake lines too?
It's a bit hard to get an accurate measurement because it is run through the frame, but using string to get the best approximation would be around 155-160 cm.
The front line would depend on your fork.
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I'm planning to build this in size Large and looking at a few used items for the build. Would an already cut fork with the steerer at 19cm be enough on a large? What length brake hoses would I need? Thanks
Yes, you should be fine. I have a large and measured today the bottom of head tube to the top of my stem, which has a half inch of spacers under it. I am pretty close to 19cm.
Thank you. Would you be able to measure you brake lines too?
It's a bit hard to get an accurate measurement because it is run through the frame, but using string to get the best approximation would be around 155-160 cm.
The front line would depend on your fork.
Awesome, thank you so much!
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Fox will rebuild any of their 165 trunnion shocks into 165x42.5 with remote, you just have to send it to them. All of their 165 trunnion shocks are the same physical 45 mm length stroke shock. The 42.5 mm stroke shock has a 2.5 mm spacer, the 40 mm stroke has a 5 mm spacer.
Ideal situation is find a blown Fox 165 trunnon - any of the three lengths - on Ebay or classifieds ad list for cheap, then send off to Fox for a rebuild. The rebuild will cost right about $200 in parts and labor to have the trunnion head switched over to the remote lockout head, they have to do a rebuild on the shock anyway because that head is replaced. They will also swap to the 2.5 mm spacer.
I have a shock with them right now doing this very thing for my frame.
This is great info.. Thanks for sharing.
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Looks like a small crack at the top of the headtube.
I'd see if they'll replace that front triangle, if not I'd epoxy that crack. Doesn't seem to be in the bearing seat so epoxy should keep it structurally sound.
Is that a standard weight frame?
It's the standard version.
Carbonda asked me to destroy the main triangle and they will send me a new one.
Just destroyed the frame, inside the down and top tube the carbon layup looks even better than headtube and BB area.
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ok so...
what about taking one of these and throwing a 140mm fork on the front? how about a -2 angleset?
im 6' (198cm ish) thinking about a large or an xl with a 30mm stem and some 780mm bars, oh and the longest dropper post i can get.
I usually ride a kona honzo and want something with a tiny bit of squish on the back for getting rowdy on. oh and i live in vancouver bc, so the bike will get thrashed pretty hard.
Think its up for it?
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ok so...
what about taking one of these and throwing a 140mm fork on the front? how about a -2 angleset?
im 6' (198cm ish) thinking about a large or an xl with a 30mm stem and some 780mm bars, oh and the longest dropper post i can get.
I usually ride a kona honzo and want something with a tiny bit of squish on the back for getting rowdy on. oh and i live in vancouver bc, so the bike will get thrashed pretty hard.
Think its up for it?
These frame it's for XC, not AM. I think you should go to AM831 and go with 130-150 rear and 150-160 front.
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What bike are you riding now? I'm super happy with a 120mm fork riding the shore/Squamish. You can't run an angleset with an integrated headset. Careful running a super long post, you might not be able to get enough insertion to get your saddle height low enough at full extension. And assuming 30mm is a typo, but I'm running a 40mm (tried 50mm initially). I wouldn't go XL at your height.
If you want something plush for BC trails, this won't be it. Definitely has a pretty stiff/XC race feel to it compared to modern 140mm trail bikes. Certainly more forgiving than the last generation of XC bikes though.
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ok so...
what about taking one of these and throwing a 140mm fork on the front? how about a -2 angleset?
im 6' (198cm ish) thinking about a large or an xl with a 30mm stem and some 780mm bars, oh and the longest dropper post i can get.
I usually ride a kona honzo and want something with a tiny bit of squish on the back for getting rowdy on. oh and i live in vancouver bc, so the bike will get thrashed pretty hard.
Think its up for it?
I dont think a 140mm fork will do any good to the bike, its designed for 100-120mm. It's a xc/downcountry style of bike. And with your size it will give extra stress. With 120mm it will hold up just fine...in XL offcourse (a Large will never fit don't you think?!).
Good luck
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About shock size :
165x42,5 fits, you have a few millimeters space between seatstays arch and seat tube.
165x45 doesn't fit, at full travel the arch is touching the seat tube.
All these informations were confirmed to me by carbonda.
That's not good. During bottom out, that 1mm is going to get taken up by flex and there's going to be contact.
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I'm 6'1" and purchased a large, it fits perfect.
And the 42.5 mm shock works great with the frame, doesn't touch at bottom out at all.
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Thats more than i want in terms of travel. Im looking for a light whippet like bike. I want something with a stiff rear end thats gonna feel snappy and playful.
What bike are you riding now? I'm super happy with a 120mm fork riding the shore/Squamish. You can't run an angleset with an integrated headset. Careful running a super long post, you might not be able to get enough insertion to get your saddle height low enough at full extension. And assuming 30mm is a typo, but I'm running a 40mm (tried 50mm initially). I wouldn't go XL at your height.
nope not a typo, give me a long af top tube and the shortest stem i can get. Ive been on a large steel honzo for the better part of three years now. Its set up with a 140mm fork up front, 27.5+ wtb vigilante tough casing tyres and cushcore front and rear. Had a banshee rune that over lapped the honzo for about a year, and a session before that, see a trend yet? So im coming from zero rear travel.
I dont know why this is such a hard sell for you guys.
The geo for this thing is based off an axle to crown of 506mm, a fox 36 140mm is 547mm so that would slack the head tube out to about 64.5, sounds like a party to me. But might put the seat too far back with a long dropper, and the bb drop would only be 30ish mm. Maybe I really lay it all out there and run a 27.5 on the rear.
Im not looking for something plush, quite the opposite. I want something snappy and really progressive in the rear, think dual slalom bikes for yesteryear.
The way modern forward geometry works biases your weight on the front end so it makes a bit of sense to run a more aggressive spec front suspension than the rear end.
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Now considering the FM936 instead of the LightCarbon LCFS958 I was very close to buying.
In the build planning phase now. Not sure if I want to go with a DVO Sapphire (32mm) lowered to 120mm or a RockShox SID Ultimate 120mm. The Sapphire should be more stout despite having 32mm stanchions too, but the SID will save over 200g. I can't easily get the new RockShox SID 120 with 35mm stanchions.
Any thoughts?
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I was just referring to the 30mm stem length as a typo, I do know there were options (like the dented Pacenti bars), but otherwise, your steerer tube and 31.8mm handlebar would be in contact.
Have you ridden a bike with such a slack head angle? If you're coming from a Honzo, it's going to feel several degrees slacker as there is no sag on your bike obv. Slackening the head angle (and STA) isn't going to make it any more lively. Riding a 120mm fork on those trails is a real party.
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Now considering the FM936 instead of the LightCarbon LCFS958 I was very close to buying.
In the build planning phase now. Not sure if I want to go with a DVO Sapphire (32mm) lowered to 120mm or a RockShox SID Ultimate 120mm. The Sapphire should be more stout despite having 32mm stanchions too, but the SID will save over 200g. I can't easily get the new RockShox SID 120 with 35mm stanchions.
Any thoughts?
Depends on what you're riding and if you're racing IMO. The new SID looks awesome, but it seems like you can pick up Fox 34 SC's for a good deal on Pinkbike, etc now. I'd buy a reduced offset if I was buying again.
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Now considering the FM936 instead of the LightCarbon LCFS958 I was very close to buying.
In the build planning phase now. Not sure if I want to go with a DVO Sapphire (32mm) lowered to 120mm or a RockShox SID Ultimate 120mm. The Sapphire should be more stout despite having 32mm stanchions too, but the SID will save over 200g. I can't easily get the new RockShox SID 120 with 35mm stanchions.
Any thoughts?
I wanted to set the bike up with a pike...bought the sipphire 34 instead and.loving it...I think its a much capable fork for downcountry...unless you're a xc racing kind of guy. Extra bonus is easy travel adjustmant with spacers
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Now considering the FM936 instead of the LightCarbon LCFS958 I was very close to buying.
In the build planning phase now. Not sure if I want to go with a DVO Sapphire (32mm) lowered to 120mm or a RockShox SID Ultimate 120mm. The Sapphire should be more stout despite having 32mm stanchions too, but the SID will save over 200g. I can't easily get the new RockShox SID 120 with 35mm stanchions.
Any thoughts?
I wanted to set the bike up with a pike...bought the sipphire 34 instead and.loving it...I think its a much capable fork for downcountry...unless you're a xc racing kind of guy. Extra bonus is easy travel adjustmant with spacers
Thanks for the feedback, Medico. Did your DVO come with travel adjustment spacers in the box or must those be bought separately?
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Now considering the FM936 instead of the LightCarbon LCFS958 I was very close to buying.
In the build planning phase now. Not sure if I want to go with a DVO Sapphire (32mm) lowered to 120mm or a RockShox SID Ultimate 120mm. The Sapphire should be more stout despite having 32mm stanchions too, but the SID will save over 200g. I can't easily get the new RockShox SID 120 with 35mm stanchions.
Any thoughts?
I wanted to set the bike up with a pike...bought the sipphire 34 instead and.loving it...I think its a much capable fork for downcountry...unless you're a xc racing kind of guy. Extra bonus is easy travel adjustmant with spacers
Thanks for the feedback, Medico. Did your DVO come with travel adjustment spacers in the box or must those be bought separately?
Normaly they will come in the package, 2 pieces. I bought one secondhand from a giant trance
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I also went with a Sapphire 34. Two travel reducer spacers in the box, each one 10 mm. The Fox 34 SC will save you a bunch of weight if weight is more important to you than quality suspension. But I didn't want the harsh, crappy damping of the Fox. The Sapphire and Factory 34 SC aren't a fair comparison as the Sapphire works, has small bump feel, good compression and rebound damping - all things that can't be said about the Factory 34 SC.
Haven't ever used a SID other than on an Epic with the brain. Without the idiotic brain mechanism, the SID is probably a decent fork.
On top of that, the DVO customer support is top notch. They will help with setup advice, or service questions. Just give them a call or email, they respond very quickly.
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Now considering the FM936 instead of the LightCarbon LCFS958 I was very close to buying.
In the build planning phase now. Not sure if I want to go with a DVO Sapphire (32mm) lowered to 120mm or a RockShox SID Ultimate 120mm. The Sapphire should be more stout despite having 32mm stanchions too, but the SID will save over 200g. I can't easily get the new RockShox SID 120 with 35mm stanchions.
Any thoughts?
I got my 120mm 2021 sid ultimate delivered today. Looks great in blue! 35mm legs should make it perfect for down country. Got it for €700 from hibike.
I was hoping to install all the components for at test drive this weekend but there seems to a production error on my frame. Can’t insert the seat tube as much as I need to. Spec says 280mm but I can’t insert more than 225mm. I need 260mm for the dropper I already bought. I have a dialog with wing/carbonda about it. May have to wait another month or so for a replacement... =(
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I also went with a Sapphire 34. Two travel reducer spacers in the box, each one 10 mm. The Fox 34 SC will save you a bunch of weight if weight is more important to you than quality suspension. But I didn't want the harsh, crappy damping of the Fox. The Sapphire and Factory 34 SC aren't a fair comparison as the Sapphire works, has small bump feel, good compression and rebound damping - all things that can't be said about the Factory 34 SC.
Haven't ever used a SID other than on an Epic with the brain. Without the idiotic brain mechanism, the SID is probably a decent fork.
On top of that, the DVO customer support is top-notch. They will help with setup advice, or service questions. Just give them a call or email, they respond very quickly.
Thanks for the further feedback on the DVO. The one I am considering is the Sapphire 32. It seems to be the option with the most versatility for my purposes and the travel adjustment options make it possible to transfer between different frames if I want to. I am not a weight weenie but I do the odd XC race and like to save "meaningful" weight wherever I can. The Sapphire will be a 200g weight penalty over the SID Ultimate but probably a better all-around package.
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Now considering the FM936 instead of the LightCarbon LCFS958 I was very close to buying.
In the build planning phase now. Not sure if I want to go with a DVO Sapphire (32mm) lowered to 120mm or a RockShox SID Ultimate 120mm. The Sapphire should be more stout despite having 32mm stanchions too, but the SID will save over 200g. I can't easily get the new RockShox SID 120 with 35mm stanchions.
Any thoughts?
I got my 120mm 2021 sid ultimate delivered today. Looks great in blue! 35mm legs should make it perfect for down country. Got it for €700 from hibike.
I was hoping to install all the components for at test drive this weekend but there seems to a production error on my frame. Can’t insert the seat tube as much as I need to. Spec says 280mm but I can’t insert more than 225mm. I need 260mm for the dropper I already bought. I have a dialog with wing/carbonda about it. May have to wait another month or so for a replacement... =(
2021 SID 35 would be perfect but I cannot easily buy one where I live.
Too bad about the seatpost insert. Did you check the rest of the frame measurements? Did you get an L instead of the XL (I am assuming) you ordered? Hope you get it resolved soon.
On a different note, did anyone go for paint on these frames? Any experience with paint quality from Carbonda in general?
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Now considering the FM936 instead of the LightCarbon LCFS958 I was very close to buying.
In the build planning phase now. Not sure if I want to go with a DVO Sapphire (32mm) lowered to 120mm or a RockShox SID Ultimate 120mm. The Sapphire should be more stout despite having 32mm stanchions too, but the SID will save over 200g. I can't easily get the new RockShox SID 120 with 35mm stanchions.
Any thoughts?
I got my 120mm 2021 sid ultimate delivered today. Looks great in blue! 35mm legs should make it perfect for down country. Got it for €700 from hibike.
I was hoping to install all the components for at test drive this weekend but there seems to a production error on my frame. Can’t insert the seat tube as much as I need to. Spec says 280mm but I can’t insert more than 225mm. I need 260mm for the dropper I already bought. I have a dialog with wing/carbonda about it. May have to wait another month or so for a replacement... =(
2021 SID 35 would be perfect but I cannot easily buy one where I live.
Too bad about the seatpost insert. Did you check the rest of the frame measurements? Did you get an L instead of the XL (I am assuming) you ordered? Hope you get it resolved soon.
On a different note, did anyone go for paint on these frames? Any experience with paint quality from Carbonda in general?
Yeah, I checked and it is definitely a XL. The seat tube is long but when looking down in it i can see some carbon fiber sheets sticking out from the side, so I guess it’s an error from production. If carbonda offer me descent compensation I may keep it. It could work with a oneup 150mm dropper post, but I can’t return the 180mm I got since it is a bit scratched from installing. To be continued...
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Yeah, I checked and it is definitely a XL. The seat tube is long but when looking down in it i can see some carbon fiber sheets sticking out from the side, so I guess it’s an error from production. If carbonda offer me descent compensation I may keep it. It could work with a oneup 150mm dropper post, but I can’t return the 180mm I got since it is a bit scratched from installing. To be continued...
Curious: did you buy the normal or superlight version?
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Yeah, I checked and it is definitely a XL. The seat tube is long but when looking down in it i can see some carbon fiber sheets sticking out from the side, so I guess it’s an error from production. If carbonda offer me descent compensation I may keep it. It could work with a oneup 150mm dropper post, but I can’t return the 180mm I got since it is a bit scratched from installing. To be continued...
Curious: did you buy the normal or superlight version?
Got the normal version. Weights about 2150g including the rear axle.
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Can anyone please confirm the headset specs for this frame? Is it upper IS42/28.6 lower IS47/33? Carbonda are being a little slow with replies.
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Can anyone please confirm the headset specs for this frame? Is it upper IS42/28.6 lower IS47/33? Carbonda are being a little slow with replies.
Found this on page 12 of this thread:
Here's a 40 set that works for tapered headsets, 110 will have the same numbers:
Cane Creek 40.IS52 Bottom Headset - Lower Part 1.5 Inches - IS52/40
Cane Creek 40.IS42 Top Headset - Upper Part 1 1/8 Inches - IS42/28.6
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Can anyone please confirm the headset specs for this frame? Is it upper IS42/28.6 lower IS47/33? Carbonda are being a little slow with replies.
Found this on page 12 of this thread:
Here's a 40 set that works for tapered headsets, 110 will have the same numbers:
Cane Creek 40.IS52 Bottom Headset - Lower Part 1.5 Inches - IS52/40
Cane Creek 40.IS42 Top Headset - Upper Part 1 1/8 Inches - IS42/28.6
Thank you. This is now a little confusing though. Carbonda's specs don't specify exact headset spec. I already have a 42/52 headset but the specs for the NS Synonym (same front triangle?) list FSA NO.42/47/ACB, which made me think I might need a 47 lower bearing assembly like this one https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/ritchey-comp-drop-in-headset-underpart-is47-33-691978. Hmm. Hoping one of the forum members who have already built one up will confirm which is it!
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Can anyone please confirm the headset specs for this frame? Is it upper IS42/28.6 lower IS47/33? Carbonda are being a little slow with replies.
Found this on page 12 of this thread:
Here's a 40 set that works for tapered headsets, 110 will have the same numbers:
Cane Creek 40.IS52 Bottom Headset - Lower Part 1.5 Inches - IS52/40
Cane Creek 40.IS42 Top Headset - Upper Part 1 1/8 Inches - IS42/28.6
Thank you. This is now a little confusing though. Carbonda's specs don't specify exact headset spec. I already have a 42/52 headset but the specs for the NS Synonym (same front triangle?) list FSA NO.42/47/ACB, which made me think I might need a 47 lower bearing assembly like this one https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/ritchey-comp-drop-in-headset-underpart-is47-33-691978. Hmm. Hoping one of the forum members who have already built one up will confirm which is it!
OK, I got the cheap headset from Carbonda with the frame (usually do this with China direct frames to have a reference) and just went out and made sure the bearings fit the frame and then measured them.
The specs that were posted on page 12 are correct:
IS52/40
IS42/28.6
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Can anyone please confirm the headset specs for this frame? Is it upper IS42/28.6 lower IS47/33? Carbonda are being a little slow with replies.
Found this on page 12 of this thread:
Here's a 40 set that works for tapered headsets, 110 will have the same numbers:
Cane Creek 40.IS52 Bottom Headset - Lower Part 1.5 Inches - IS52/40
Cane Creek 40.IS42 Top Headset - Upper Part 1 1/8 Inches - IS42/28.6
Thank you. This is now a little confusing though. Carbonda's specs don't specify exact headset spec. I already have a 42/52 headset but the specs for the NS Synonym (same front triangle?) list FSA NO.42/47/ACB, which made me think I might need a 47 lower bearing assembly like this one https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/ritchey-comp-drop-in-headset-underpart-is47-33-691978. Hmm. Hoping one of the forum members who have already built one up will confirm which is it!
OK, I got the cheap headset from Carbonda with the frame (usually do this with China direct frames to have a reference) and just went out and made sure the bearings fit the frame and then measured them.
The specs that were posted on page 12 are correct:
IS52/40
IS42/28.6
Thank you, much appreciated!
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Can you actually mount a 36t on this frame
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On a different note, did anyone go for paint on these frames? Any experience with paint quality from Carbonda in general?
I happily used their service on many frames: single color, multi-colors, with glitters, etc. they can do whatever you like.
And the result was each time of high quality.
Wing is very easy to communicate about it.
Be sure to describe all the details as precisely as you can to get exactly the result you want.
And you get pictures before shipping.
And check the Pantone codes you give in real light if you can, not only on screen.
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On a different note, did anyone go for paint on these frames? Any experience with paint quality from Carbonda in general?
I happily used their service on many frames: single color, multi-colors, with glitters, etc. they can do whatever you like.
And the result was each time of high quality.
Wing is very easy to communicate about it.
Be sure to describe all the details as precisely as you can to get exactly the result you want.
And you get pictures before shipping.
And check the Pantone codes you give in real light if you can, not only on screen.
Many thanks for the feedback on that. I am yet to decide on paint vs no paint, but I guess I shouldn't overthink it.
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On a different note, did anyone go for paint on these frames? Any experience with paint quality from Carbonda in general?
I happily used their service on many frames: single color, multi-colors, with glitters, etc. they can do whatever you like.
And the result was each time of high quality.
Wing is very easy to communicate about it.
Be sure to describe all the details as precisely as you can to get exactly the result you want.
And you get pictures before shipping.
And check the Pantone codes you give in real light if you can, not only on screen.
Many thanks for the feedback on that. I am yet to decide on paint vs no paint, but I guess I shouldn't overthink it.
No paint is lighter! ;)
I got a blue SID fork to spice things up a bit.
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No paint is lighter! ;)
I got a blue SID fork to spice things up a bit.
True! And a blue SID is what I am very likely getting for this frame if I don't go for the DVO Sapphire. Got any pictures of your build?
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No paint is lighter! ;)
I got a blue SID fork to spice things up a bit.
I was all black and light before too.
Do a couple more intervals and ride a shiny bike ;)
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No paint for me please ;-)
(https://pics.awwmemes.com/its-so-black-its-like-how-much-more-black-could-31235648.png)
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I'm on team "don't spend more money to wait longer for a slower bike"
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Aah... these young people ::)
I understand ;)
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First test run around the house and it felt really good. Not too long! (XL, 45mm stem and 190cm).
May hit the trails tomorrow, but first:
Mount proper pedals
Cut steerer tube
Shorten front brake hose
Mount dropper post (if it arrives, wire already in the frame)
Fine tune and bed brakes
Anything I missed?
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First test run around the house and it felt really good. Not too long! (XL, 45mm stem and 190cm).
May hit the trails tomorrow, but first:
Mount proper pedals
Cut steerer tube
Shorten front brake hose
Mount dropper post (if it arrives, wire already in the frame)
Fine tune and bed brakes
Anything I missed?
Looking good! Are you running a boost or non-boost crankset?
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First test run around the house and it felt really good. Not too long! (XL, 45mm stem and 190cm).
May hit the trails tomorrow, but first:
Mount proper pedals
Cut steerer tube
Shorten front brake hose
Mount dropper post (if it arrives, wire already in the frame)
Fine tune and bed brakes
Anything I missed?
Looking good! Are you running a boost or non-boost crankset?
It is boost now but the chain line doesn’t look great, so I’m thinking about trying a chain ring with non-boost offset.
What are others running?
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Any recommendations for a clean looking chainstay protector? Maybe something similar to the NS one, didn't see them selling it though.
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Any recommendations for a clean looking chainstay protector? Maybe something similar to the NS one, didn't see them selling it though.
I don't have my frame yet, but I am looking into experimenting with 3D printing something like this.
(https://i.imgur.com/rdmKhlq.jpg) (Picture from https://singletrackworld.com/2018/04/review-2019-specialized-stumpjumper-expert-carbon-29/ (https://singletrackworld.com/2018/04/review-2019-specialized-stumpjumper-expert-carbon-29/))
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I don't have my frame yet, but I am looking into experimenting with 3D printing something like this.
3D print hit by the chain regularly will not age well.
Just a quick image search got me to this $13 part: https://www.amaincycling.com/specialized-demo-fsr-f1-chainstay-protector-s196900001/p1144492
However, there is a screw that may need some creativity around the hanger ;)
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It is boost now but the chain line doesn’t look great, so I’m thinking about trying a chain ring with non-boost offset.
Did you measure the chainline ? It should be 52mm.
The chain will have a strange shape when you are at both extreme of the cassette, but it is designed for that.
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I just use an old road tube split in half and wrap. It lasts forever, protects the stay and deadens the sound as well. Free and gets the job done - def not the lightest solution, but doesn't add that much weight.
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Anyone knows if this frame has a 165x40 or 165x42.5 rear shock with a handlebar lock? Or is it possible to mount a classic 165x38?
It's spec'd for a 165x40 trunnion mount shock (with or without a remote lockout)
I'd imagine a 165x38 would work, but would need a conversion kit or something for the trunnion mount side. Prob be somewhere around 80-85mm travel then?
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This is what I did. I used Scotch 2228 tape for the base and also made the little stacks. Very simple, doesn't look too bad and works great.
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I'm running a 165x42.5, and it works great. I don't find myself using the lockout much at all, don't really feel that it is really necessary. On smooth fire road climbs it might eliminate a bit of pedal bob, but not enough that I really notice it.
Haven't really done any back to back timing tests, but I am also not worried about it helping shave a few seconds off a race lap time.
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Update from my side...had an issue with play in the lower pivot. Got new spacers to install, but no luck...play is less but still there. Already had contact with Adam, will get new rear stays/triangle.
To be continued
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Update from my side...had an issue with play in the lower pivot. Got new spacers to install, but no luck...play is less but still there. Already had contact with Adam, will get new rear stays/triangle.
To be continued
Thanks for updating... I was wondering. Hopefully, you get it sorted soon.
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Update from my side...had an issue with play in the lower pivot. Got new spacers to install, but no luck...play is less but still there. Already had contact with Adam, will get new rear stays/triangle.
To be continued
It's good to hear about Carbonda's good customer support! Is it better than LightCarbon in general - if anyone has experienced both? Very tempted between this and the LCFS911! Don't suppose anyone has ridden bother? :D
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I haven't experienced both but my original plan was to build a LCFS958 and decided to go for the FM936 frame instead as it just makes more sense for what the bike want to build right now. You lose a bit in travel and save 500g+ in weight with the Carbonda.
I considered the LCFS911 too but just like the looks of the Carbonda a bit more. There is a $300 difference in price and I am not sure if this has to do with a superior construction, but I doubt the difference in quality would be large (again, haven't owned any frames from either companies, so maybe anyone who actually has can chime in?). The fact that the FM936 is essentially a debranded NS Synonym (with a different rear triangle) might translate into a frame that's easier to sell if I want to, but in this "class" of frames that's a secondary issue, really.
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Carbonda has a great customer service. I had a two frame shipment that got lost somewhere few months ago.
They repainted two of them to the specs and sent them again.
I never had a failure or defects with the frames I ordered(9), which is good, but I'm sure they would handle it the same way.
Not sure if it is only by the EPS molding, but their frames looks as good inside than outside.
Yeah... As you may have already read in many posts, I'm a fan !
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How did you guys mount your bottom brackets? I mounted a SRAM dub one with grease according to Wings recommendations, but it creaks a lot when pushing hard on the pedals. Or is it something else that could make the sounds according to your experience? It started after about 15kms of riding.
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If you look around the web, you will read it can come from everywhere unfortunately.
From a loose derailleur hanger(my last one), to the pedal bearings, the headset, the stem, the BB.
I always put a retaining compound when pressing a BB, not grease.
Again many different views exist for this too.
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My frame is on the way! So excited for the build!
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Aah... these young people ::)
I understand ;)
I agree - get a paint job with the frame and make it beautiful. That being said, how does the process go for selecting a paint colour, cost, addition to timeline to get frame, etc? Any insights to share what I should expect. Looking to order my frame in the fall (Sept) and build it up over the winter. Thanks again!
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How did you guys mount your bottom brackets? I mounted a SRAM dub one with grease according to Wings recommendations, but it creaks a lot when pushing hard on the pedals. Or is it something else that could make the sounds according to your experience? It started after about 15kms of riding.
For BB92, I get the thread-together bb from ztto or wheels manuf. I clean thoroughly and mount with Loctite 648. Then I press in NTN double sealed bearings with Loctite 648. Allow to cure 24 hours. Coat the outside of the bearing seals with a silicone based grease, use Chevron Ultra duty EP grease on the crank shaft, and install.
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Anyone knows if this frame has a 165x40 or 165x42.5 rear shock with a handlebar lock? Or is it possible to mount a classic 165x38?
It's spec'd for a 165x40 trunnion mount shock (with or without a remote lockout)
I'd imagine a 165x38 would work, but would need a conversion kit or something for the trunnion mount side. Prob be somewhere around 80-85mm travel then?
I know but I have not found a 165x40mm handlebars lock.
There's a Fox DPS and Manitou Mcleod in this size, both with lockouts. I haven't used the Fox lockout, but with the Mcleod you can use a Shimano 2x shifter to get full range of motion on the platform adjust. Only concern I have with this frame is if it will fit.
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How did you guys mount your bottom brackets? I mounted a SRAM dub one with grease according to Wings recommendations, but it creaks a lot when pushing hard on the pedals. Or is it something else that could make the sounds according to your experience? It started after about 15kms of riding.
For BB92, I get the thread-together bb from ztto or wheels manuf. I clean thoroughly and mount with Loctite 648. Then I press in NTN double sealed bearings with Loctite 648. Allow to cure 24 hours. Coat the outside of the bearing seals with a silicone based grease, use Chevron Ultra duty EP grease on the crank shaft, and install.
The threaded-together bb sounds like a great tip, however I have a dub crank and can’t find that kind of bb for that standard. Only for gpx and shimano.
I may try thread locker like loctitite otherwise which works well on my other carbon frame. But I am not sure I can remove those bearings without damaging the frame easily...
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My frame is on the way! So excited for the build!
Fantastic paint job. I just ordered my frame but went with no paint because I am too impatient.
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Carbonda has a great customer service. I had a two frame shipment that got lost somewhere few months ago.
They repainted two of them to the specs and sent them again.
I never had a failure or defects with the frames I ordered(9), which is good, but I'm sure they would handle it the same way.
Not sure if it is only by the EPS molding, but their frames looks as good inside than outside.
Yeah... As you may have already read in many posts, I'm a fan !
Thanks a million for the details! They seem to care about customer support! Don't think ive heard of anyone cracking one of these frames yet aha
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My frame is on the way! So excited for the build!
Lovely colour! Love the glitter! How much did it cost for the 2 tone? :)
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My frame is on the way! So excited for the build!
Lovely colour! Love the glitter! How much did it cost for the 2 tone? :)
$125 for the paint. Two weeks from paying invoice to frame shipping.
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Grease only with a press fit bottom bracket. Any locker of any kind will cause headaches down the road. Guaranteed.
I'd bet the creaking is coming from the stem, handlebar or seatpost
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Grease only with a press fit bottom bracket. Any locker of any kind will cause headaches down the road. Guaranteed.
I'd bet the creaking is coming from the stem, handlebar or seatpost
Yeah, makes sense.
Creaking is still there even if I stand up pedaling or when I don’t hold the handlebar (not at the same time!). I was also suspecting linkage but I can’t force creaking without putting pressure on the cranks.
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I agree - get a paint job with the frame and make it beautiful. That being said, how does the process go for selecting a paint colour, cost, addition to timeline to get frame, etc? Any insights to share what I should expect. Looking to order my frame in the fall (Sept) and build it up over the winter. Thanks again!
Around 10-15 days more depending on their current load.
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Yeah, makes sense.
Creaking is still there even if I stand up pedaling or when I don’t hold the handlebar (not at the same time!). I was also suspecting linkage but I can’t force creaking without putting pressure on the cranks.
I expect that it's the bb creaking. check hambini's videos for more details about why BBs creak. basically its oval bb's where the bearings go in. The engineering reasons why they creak can be a few different ones but they can be mostly solved with a one-piece bb.
https://www.hambini.com/product/bb92-to-shimano-mtb-black-bottom-bracket/
Scroll down the page to the FAQs :)
essentially, the screw together provides a circular fit for the bearing and distributes the force more uniformly. I'm an engineer but I've not actually seen a bb92 or this one piece bb in person ever.
something like this might be cheaper than a hambini:
https://wheelsmfg.com/bb86-92-outboard-angular-contact-bb-for-24mm-shimano-cranks-black.html
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/wheels-manufacturing-press-fit-bb86-92-shimano-24-mm-bottom-bracket/137541473/p
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/wheels-manufacturing-press-fit-bb86-92-shimano-24-mm-bottom-bracket/137541473/p
https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bottom-bracket/pressfit-86-92-shimano-fsa-race-face-rotor
You can see here how the cup holds the bearings now rather than the frame.
https://wheelsmfg.com/bb86-92-tech
Hope that helps?
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I am in the process of ordering a frame and I disliked the idea of another possible press-fit dissaster so i asked if BSA 73mm is a posibility and apparently it is!
I was curious as to how this was possible because the original shell is 92mm wide, but it looks like they are able to shorten the flanges of the original shell to 73mm with aluminium threaded inserts.
I asked about weight differences but he said 'no difference' which i interpret as negligeble.
Adam sent me these photos.
(https://i.ibb.co/TkttP5F/20200427172302.jpg)
(https://i.ibb.co/n0xb3QK/20200427172311.jpg)
Fullsize:
https://i.imgur.com/89yycxl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0IIiMBJ.jpg
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I am in the process of ordering a frame and I disliked the idea of another possible press-fit dissaster so i asked if BSA 73mm is a posibility and apparently it is!
I was curious as to how this was possible because the original shell is 92mm wide, but it looks like they are able to shorten the flanges of the original shell to 73mm with aluminium threaded inserts.
I asked about weight differences but he said 'no difference' which i interpret as negligeble.
Adam sent me these photos.
Well that's news to me! I'd have ordered my frame with BSA if I knew that's an option.
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I thought i was being cheeky by asking to be honest.
Under 'Bottom bracket' on their website it does say 'to order' which pushed me to ask.
Long live BSA! ;D
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Yeah, makes sense.
Creaking is still there even if I stand up pedaling or when I don’t hold the handlebar (not at the same time!). I was also suspecting linkage but I can’t force creaking without putting pressure on the cranks.
I expect that it's the bb creaking. check hambini's videos for more details about why BBs creak. basically its oval bb's where the bearings go in. The engineering reasons why they creak can be a few different ones but they can be mostly solved with a one-piece bb.
https://www.hambini.com/product/bb92-to-shimano-mtb-black-bottom-bracket/
Scroll down the page to the FAQs :)
essentially, the screw together provides a circular fit for the bearing and distributes the force more uniformly. I'm an engineer but I've not actually seen a bb92 or this one piece bb in person ever.
something like this might be cheaper than a hambini:
https://wheelsmfg.com/bb86-92-outboard-angular-contact-bb-for-24mm-shimano-cranks-black.html
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/wheels-manufacturing-press-fit-bb86-92-shimano-24-mm-bottom-bracket/137541473/p
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/wheels-manufacturing-press-fit-bb86-92-shimano-24-mm-bottom-bracket/137541473/p
https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/bottom-bracket/pressfit-86-92-shimano-fsa-race-face-rotor
You can see here how the cup holds the bearings now rather than the frame.
https://wheelsmfg.com/bb86-92-tech
Hope that helps?
Problem is that this kind of bb doesn’t exist for my dub cranks, or at least I can’t find it. So I would need to buy new cranks as well.
Really wish I knew you could get it threaded from factory before...
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When I asked about BSA73 BB they answered me: "We only have BB92 in stock now , If you want other bottom bracket ,You need to order at least 10.".
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Problem is that this kind of bb doesn’t exist for my dub cranks, or at least I can’t find it. So I would need to buy new cranks as well.
Really wish I knew you could get it threaded from factory before...
sorry I dont want to beat a dead horse but I think C-bear stock them :) https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/sram-dub
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I may have to pass on this frame. The attraction of these no brand frames is the low price. They're quoting me $1200 shipped for a painted superlight frame. With shock that will be $1500-$1600. That is steep for a frame with zero resale value when name brand companies are selling their previous year model frames for around $2000.
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I may have to pass on this frame. The attraction of these no brand frames is the low price. They're quoting me $1200 shipped for a painted superlight frame. With shock that will be $1500-$1600. That is steep for a frame with zero resale value when name brand companies are selling their previous year model frames for around $2000.
You do you, but to claim this frame isn't a deal is just silly. You chose the SL model, $150 for 150 grams saved isn't exactly a bargain on any component, but it's nice that they offer the option. Don't know what you chose for paint but good luck finding that price quote state side or wherever you are. Their shipping cost is higher right now b/c only EMS is making it through customs with the pandemic, not like they're pocketing the difference. Name a branded frame that you can get with custom painting, and this modern XC geo, for $1200 shipped.
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You do you, but to claim this frame isn't a deal is just silly. You chose the SL model, $150 for 150 grams saved isn't exactly a bargain on any component, but it's nice that they offer the option. Don't know what you chose for paint but good luck finding that price quote state side or wherever you are. Their shipping cost is higher right now b/c only EMS is making it through customs with the pandemic, not like they're pocketing the difference. Name a branded frame that you can get with custom painting, and this modern XC geo, for $1200 shipped.
I'd have to agree. Brand name carbon frames will often loose $1200 or more in value as soon as 'the new' model comes out.
I think the beauty in chinese frames is that you dont have to baby them that much because realisticly its not going to make much of a difference whether there is ekstra paint scratches. Who knows, it might even make you ride harder 8)
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I may have to pass on this frame. The attraction of these no brand frames is the low price. They're quoting me $1200 shipped for a painted superlight frame. With shock that will be $1500-$1600. That is steep for a frame with zero resale value when name brand companies are selling their previous year model frames for around $2000.
You certainly have a point and it is something I thought about before I pulled the trigger on the Carbonda, with some big caveats.
You can find some fantastic name brand frames with similar specs to the FM936 discounted to around +- $2000 like this Yeti SB100 https://www.competitivecyclist.com/yeti-cycles-sb100-turq-beti-mountain-bike-frame (https://www.competitivecyclist.com/yeti-cycles-sb100-turq-beti-mountain-bike-frame). That's still a $900 (plus shipping cost) difference between what I just paid for the Carbonda, including the cost of a (nearly new) Fox DPS shock (via eBay) AND the currently extremely expensive (but fast) DHL shipping option. I opted for no paint, but if I chose the most expensive paint option that would have made the price difference about $800+. Still significant!
Sure, good deals come up all the time, but to find a good deal with the criteria I want, in my frame size, in a color I like I'd have to be very patient which I usually am as I have several other bikes to ride while I work on new build projects...but patience has limits! Or...accept certain compromises. With the factory direct frame, the main compromise is, of course, the resale value.
This will be my first Chiner frame. I have a Cannondale Scalpel Si 3, a Felt gravel bike and an Argon 18 road bike and they're all fantastic. The Carbonda frame would allow me to build up a bike to specs I want without needing to spend a silly amount of time hunting for deals or a silly amount of money for a frame meeting my criteria. Resale value is certainly never the primary concern when it comes to buying a Chiner frame.
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It's still a big increase from the original $630 plus shipping :o
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It's still a big increase from the original $630 plus shipping :o
$820 plus shipping for the superlight version.
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Not sure what this frame would cost from Stevens or NS - or if they even sell frame only.
The only thing I could find in this weight/geo class for $2000 is the 2019 Sniper NM which would be comparable to the standard layup FM936 in weight and geo. It's $500 more for the SL version from Intense.
If you're small you could find that Beti SB100 (the Yeti SB100 is still over $3k) for $2200, but it's about 5.5lbs and not quite as slack so the standard FM936 would still be lighter.
I've got about $1100 into the FM936 frame (superlight, no paint) with a Fox Factory shock (took a couple of weeks to find a decent deal). Even if it's a hot mess I doubt I'll lose any more money than if I went with a name brand. The resale on used bikes is pretty bad anyway (for the seller).
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I may have to pass on this frame. The attraction of these no brand frames is the low price. They're quoting me $1200 shipped for a painted superlight frame. With shock that will be $1500-$1600. That is steep for a frame with zero resale value when name brand companies are selling their previous year model frames for around $2000.
You do you, but to claim this frame isn't a deal is just silly. You chose the SL model, $150 for 150 grams saved isn't exactly a bargain on any component, but it's nice that they offer the option. Don't know what you chose for paint but good luck finding that price quote state side or wherever you are. Their shipping cost is higher right now b/c only EMS is making it through customs with the pandemic, not like they're pocketing the difference. Name a branded frame that you can get with custom painting, and this modern XC geo, for $1200 shipped.
That is a good point on the shipping. DHL they are quoting me is $190. Maybe I will do it. But the chiner frame appeal - no warranty, no support, just good enough for a year, trash it afterward, is maximum for me at $1000usd for frame and shock.
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Problem is that this kind of bb doesn’t exist for my dub cranks, or at least I can’t find it. So I would need to buy new cranks as well.
Really wish I knew you could get it threaded from factory before...
sorry I dont want to beat a dead horse but I think C-bear stock them :) https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/sram-dub
Sorry but I may be missing something here. How is this different from the SRAM one I have installed now? They look very similar and neither is “thread-together”?
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That is a good point on the shipping. DHL they are quoting me is $190. Maybe I will do it. But the chiner frame appeal - no warranty, no support, just good enough for a year, trash it afterward, is maximum for me at $1000usd for frame and shock.
Use it for a year and trash it afterwards? I think you are probably in the minority on that one. I've had my hardtail for 5 years and my friend had his full sus for 4 and both are still going strong. You will need to maintenance pivots and bearings, of course. That said, we're not all that hard on our bikes so ymmv.
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Problem is that this kind of bb doesn’t exist for my dub cranks, or at least I can’t find it. So I would need to buy new cranks as well.
Really wish I knew you could get it threaded from factory before...
sorry I dont want to beat a dead horse but I think C-bear stock them :) https://www.c-bear.com/en/products/sram-dub
Sorry but I may be missing something here. How is this different from the SRAM one I have installed now? They look very similar and neither is “thread-together”?
Sorry, you are correct. That's my fault, this site makes it clearer https://www.bike-components.de/en/C-BEAR/BB86-92-SRAM-DUB-MTB-Cyclocross-Bottom-Bracket-41-x-86-5-92-mm-p68086/
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That is a good point on the shipping. DHL they are quoting me is $190. Maybe I will do it. But the chiner frame appeal - no warranty, no support, just good enough for a year, trash it afterward, is maximum for me at $1000usd for frame and shock.
I've done 10,844.0 km on my IP-036 in 4 summers so far and the bike frame just don't want to die yet. I destroyed a rear wheel/derailleur/hanger, snapped a shock bolt, bottomed the damn thing many many many times and so far no sign of failure. I think you underestimate the quality of those open mold frames.
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That's really impressive for any light frame lRaphl
I've had several name brand frames fail with a lot less miles, but under probably the same hard riding conditions.
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Has anyone found a replacement for the upper shock mount bolt? The one that comes with the frame seems a bit soft, like that hex head will strip out fairly easy and it needs to be pretty tight to prevent play right there.
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That is a good point on the shipping. DHL they are quoting me is $190. Maybe I will do it. But the chiner frame appeal - no warranty, no support, just good enough for a year, trash it afterward, is maximum for me at $1000usd for frame and shock.
Use it for a year and trash it afterwards? I think you are probably in the minority on that one. I've had my hardtail for 5 years and my friend had his full sus for 4 and both are still going strong. You will need to maintenance pivots and bearings, of course. That said, we're not all that hard on our bikes so ymmv.
Perhaps so. My FM-06 is coming up on a year and its third set of bb bearings; I'm estimating that the bb is out of spec causing their life to be short. I am pretty hard on these bikes, and not worrying about that is why they are so attractive.
For this frame, $630 normal version, no paint, cheaper shipping when the panic dies down, and it's looking like a contender.
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It's a great deal! The only thing I can't decide is what fork to put on it! I'd like something cheap but not cheap
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https://www.bike24.com/p2308302.html?menu=1000,2,121
Also available in blue or green.
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If your concerned about warranty clearly you don't belong buying carbon. Only a couple bike brands have life time warranty and almost every reputable manufacturer has a 2 year warranty same as every other company. If you pay 900 for a sl frame with paint and use it for 2 years and sell the frame for 450 you just saved yourself thousands. Almost every frame is marked half off on eBay
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https://www.bike24.com/p2308302.html?menu=1000,2,121
Also available in blue or green.
Should I sell one or 2 kidneys? ;D
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Can you guys help me figure out what choice one have buying a rear shock for this bike.
Im mostly interested in buying a 165x42,5 to maximize the travel.
Im looking to pair it with a Rockshox SID Select 120mm, 44mm offset fork.
https://www.bike24.com/p2374397.html?q=sid
Ideally i would get one of the new SIDluxe Select shocks but they are nowhere to be found. Does anyone know if you can buy directly from Sram somehow? :-\
Other options would be:
DVO Topaz T3Air
https://www.bike-components.de/en/DVO-Suspension/Topaz-T3Air-Trunnion-Rear-Shock-p71446/
Fox Float DPS EVOL 3POS
https://www.bike-components.de/en/Fox-Racing-Shox/Float-DPS-EVOL-SV-3POS-Trunnion-Factory-Rear-Shock-2020-Model-p71726/
(very expensive)
Rockshox Deluxe RT3 Debonair for Giant Anthem
https://www.bike24.com/p2276563.html
I think the linkage ratio of the rear suspension is a bit off, so i might be to soft. Do you think it can be tuned?
(picture is wrong i think)
Any options i've missed?
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I can't offer much advice but did you see this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fox-Performance-165-x-42-5-Shock-Giant-Anthem-27-5-Trunnion-Dps-Float/113465000180
I'd say its a steal even if you have to pay customs, but you can see that they're willing to mark it down in price to pay less VAT. Guess depends where you're importing it to?
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I did actually see that one. Quite cheap even though it's a lower tier model. It seems like it has a medium tune on both compression and rebound dampening. Will I be able to adjust that in any way or or am I stuck with adjusting pressure and adding or removing volume spacers?
I'm a bit of a new in full squish bikes...
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I did actually see that one. Quite cheap even though it's a lower tier model. It seems like it has a medium tune on both compression and rebound dampening. Will I be able to adjust that in any way or or am I stuck with adjusting pressure and adding or removing volume spacers?
I'm a bit of a new in full squish bikes...
I honestly do not know. I do know that some people were talking about this one a few pages ago? maybe you can ask them how it was? :)
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If you pay 900 for a sl frame with paint and use it for 2 years and sell the frame for 450
Never going to happen. You could get $50 for it after 2 yrs.
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If you pay 900 for a sl frame with paint and use it for 2 years and sell the frame for 450
Never going to happen. You could get $50 for it after 2 yrs.
Why are you even in this thread/forum? You've added nothing constructive to the conversation. If you don't want Chinese carbon frames then don't order them. Your arguments/issues don't hold up, as the last decade plus of users across many different forums can attest to.
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Just got my frame. Medium "superlight" version in UD matte. I put superlight between quotation marks because I was slightly disappointed when it weighed in at 1950g (dummy shock removed. With rear axle, seat collar and internal routing guides still in the frame).
(https://i.imgur.com/JufhyZQ.jpg)
Took just over a week from payment to arrive.
(https://i.imgur.com/ffMbmZU.jpg)
The good news is that, at least on the workstand, the quality and construction is very good. I quickly mounted the shock and there doesn't seem to be any play, etc. Movement of the swing arm is smooth. I am still waiting on the brakes and other parts to arrive to build it up, so it's going to be a couple of weeks before a shakedown ride.
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...I was slightly disappointed when it weighed in at 1950g...
I would be too. That is indeed more the weight of a normal version at 2000 +/-50g.
Did you contact them ?
Someone knows if there is a visible difference ?
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...I was slightly disappointed when it weighed in at 1950g...
I would be too. That is indeed more the weight of a normal version at 2000 +/-50g.
Did you contact them ?
Someone knows if there is a visible difference ?
I just sent Adam a message on Skype and will wait to see what he says.
I mean, if the 100g difference translates to a stronger layup, I am not too fussed as my planned build is on the trail than the XC side, but I did pay for the lighter version and that's the main issue.
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If you pay 900 for a sl frame with paint and use it for 2 years and sell the frame for 450
Never going to happen. You could get $50 for it after 2 yrs.
Why are you even in this thread/forum? You've added nothing constructive to the conversation. If you don't want Chinese carbon frames then don't order them. Your arguments/issues don't hold up, as the last decade plus of users across many different forums can attest to.
Your post is missing an "imo". Friend, I already posted why I love the chiner frames. Check out my FM06 thread in the 27.5+ forum. This is a discussion on this frame and I am discussing it.
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...I was slightly disappointed when it weighed in at 1950g...
I would be too. That is indeed more the weight of a normal version at 2000 +/-50g.
Did you contact them ?
Someone knows if there is a visible difference ?
I just sent Adam a message on Skype and will wait to see what he says.
I mean, if the 100g difference translates to a stronger layup, I am not too fussed as my planned build is on the trail than the XC side, but I did pay for the lighter version and that's the main issue.
I would imagine the 1850ish number is w/o axle, collar, any shock hardware, etc. I'd pull everything and weigh again just to see where it is then.
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The good news is that, at least on the workstand, the quality and construction is very good. I quickly mounted the shock and there doesn't seem to be any play, etc. Movement of the swing arm is smooth. I am still waiting on the brakes and other parts to arrive to build it up, so it's going to be a couple of weeks before a shakedown ride.
Looks fantastic dude! what groupset are you going with? I'm tempted by the new 12 speed xt/slx! Your home workshop looks fantastic.
How does the carbon look around the top of the head tube hole?
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I just sent Adam a message on Skype and will wait to see what he says.
I mean, if the 100g difference translates to a stronger layup, I am not too fussed as my planned build is on the trail than the XC side, but I did pay for the lighter version and that's the main issue.
They might be on holiday so Adam's response could be delayed. I was dealing with Light Carbon and they said they were going to be shut down May 1-5 for some national holiday.
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...I was slightly disappointed when it weighed in at 1950g...
I would be too. That is indeed more the weight of a normal version at 2000 +/-50g.
Did you contact them ?
Someone knows if there is a visible difference ?
I just sent Adam a message on Skype and will wait to see what he says.
I mean, if the 100g difference translates to a stronger layup, I am not too fussed as my planned build is on the trail than the XC side, but I did pay for the lighter version and that's the main issue.
I would imagine the 1850ish number is w/o axle, collar, any shock hardware, etc. I'd pull everything and weigh again just to see where it is then.
I just checked again:
1950g with rear axle and seat collar (no shock hardware)
1900g without rear axle , with seat collar (no shock hardware).
Seat collar is about 25g.
So if we take Carbonda's quoted weight to be without the axle, then 1950g 1900g is within their "+/- 50g".
Anyway, time to stop fussing over grams and build this thing up.
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The good news is that, at least on the workstand, the quality and construction is very good. I quickly mounted the shock and there doesn't seem to be any play, etc. Movement of the swing arm is smooth. I am still waiting on the brakes and other parts to arrive to build it up, so it's going to be a couple of weeks before a shakedown ride.
Looks fantastic dude! what groupset are you going with? I'm tempted by the new 12 speed xt/slx! Your home workshop looks fantastic.
How does the carbon look around the top of the head tube hole?
Thanks man! Excited to get this thing built up.
The carbon looks good around the top and bottom of the headtube. Bearings sit nice and flush.
(the gloss you see in the pictures is helitape I just put on)
(https://i.imgur.com/j7Hx7sZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ggytgj3.jpg)
There is a sticker with the frame spec inside the headtube that says FM-936-SL-17.5-UD-BB92. Based on the "SL" designation in that tag, they did send me the "superlight" version indeed. It's just not as light as they said (or I thought?) it would be :)
I am going with a mix of new parts and some bits I already have.
FOX Performance Elite Float DPS EVOL Shock 165 x 42.5
SR Suntour Aion 35 lowered to 120mm (good fork for the price, but damn heavy!) until I get either a DVO Sapphire or a RockShox SID 120.
Shimano XT 11-speed groupset with ZTTO's "lightweight" 11-speed cassette (there is a whole thread on this cassette over on MTBR).
Magura MT Trail brakes
Crank Brothers Cobalt 3 wheelset
Maxxis Ardent 2.3 rear, maybe something a little chunkier on the front.
Crank Brothers Highline 150mm dropper, WTB SL8 saddle
RaceFace Next handlebar, 800mm (will cut to 760-780mmmm) 10 degree rise with a 50mm Chiner stem (ZTTO..surprisngly well made for USD 20 off Aliexpress. Except the ghastly logos are laser etched and you can's remove them with acetone)
I love suspension lockouts, but I am going without them on this build.
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Not sure if anyone else had to fight with the dropper cable, but I'd def pull that housing thru before installing the BB. Tight turn and a narrow gap going up into the seat tube.
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The hunt for what causes the creaking goes on. I thought the linkage was fine since I couldn’t get any creaking sound from compressing it, but when rocking it sideways it creaks, and I believe pedaling creates the same kind of force. Therefore I dismounted the linkage and noticed that the upper pivot bolt shows a lot of wear after just 5km of riding. Not just visual wear but I can actually feel it. Shouldn’t all movement be handled by the bearings? I asked carbonda and they replied that I should just reinstall everything with some oil. I am not 100% convinced but I will give it a try.
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The hunt for what causes the creaking goes on. I thought the linkage was fine since I couldn’t get any creaking sound from compressing it, but when rocking it sideways it creaks, and I believe pedaling creates the same kind of force. Therefore I dismounted the linkage and noticed that the upper pivot bolt shows a lot of wear after just 5km of riding. Not just visual wear but I can actually feel it. Shouldn’t all movement be handled by the bearings? I asked carbonda and they replied that I should just reinstall everything with some oil. I am not 100% convinced but I will give it a try.
I think this could be caused by the bolt being undersized compared to the Internal Diameter of the bearing. Oil would help, but then its going to act as a bushing if the bearing isn't rotating correctly. Maybe some grease would be better- would stay in place better than oil. check the bearings arn't feeling 'gritty' which would suggest premature wear.
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The hunt for what causes the creaking goes on. I thought the linkage was fine since I couldn’t get any creaking sound from compressing it, but when rocking it sideways it creaks, and I believe pedaling creates the same kind of force. Therefore I dismounted the linkage and noticed that the upper pivot bolt shows a lot of wear after just 5km of riding. Not just visual wear but I can actually feel it. Shouldn’t all movement be handled by the bearings? I asked carbonda and they replied that I should just reinstall everything with some oil. I am not 100% convinced but I will give it a try.
I think this could be caused by the bolt being undersized compared to the Internal Diameter of the bearing. Oil would help, but then its going to act as a bushing if the bearing isn't rotating correctly. Maybe some grease would be better- would stay in place better than oil. check the bearings arn't feeling 'gritty' which would suggest premature wear.
It didn’t make any difference. Bearings seems fine and I used grease. Everything was installed more or less dry before. Now I am doing the bottom pivot bolt, and it looks the same. Worn down on the non-drive side and everything is dry. They must have used a lot of force to get the bolt in place the first time. It took forever to get out. To be continued...
TLDR - dismount and check linkage before riding!
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TLDR - dismount and check linkage before riding!
I just did this. This is how the hardware looked with ZERO rides on the frame (I only cycled the rear triangle by hand a couple of times while the frame is on the workstand). The upper pivot bolt was very difficult to get out and both were bone dry.
(https://i.imgur.com/4x3IZDP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/70zBviP.jpg)
I can't feel the wear with my finger, but if that's how it looks from brand new then that's a little worrying. I greased up the hardware, blue-loctited the bolts and torqued to spec.
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Made a ghetto sound deadening chainstay protector. A piece of rubber interlocking floor tile cut in a wave shape, affixed to top of chainstay with a bit of double-sided tape then wrapped with mastic tape. Ugly, but functional (and weighs nothing).
(https://i.imgur.com/qlLuIxe.jpg)
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Well crap, I have mine 99% built now. Guess I need to pull the wheels, cranks and shock and check out those pivots and grease as needed.
Upside is it's turning out a little lighter than expected.
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Made a ghetto sound deadening chainstay protector. A piece of rubber interlocking floor tile cut in a wave shape, affixed to top of chainstay with a bit of double-sided tape then wrapped with mastic tape. Ugly, but functional (and weighs nothing).
(https://i.imgur.com/qlLuIxe.jpg)
That looks like it would be the most effective sound deadener ever.
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With 22.2mm hardware I have a small amount of play in the upper shock mount. The hardware I have seems to spec measured with cheapo calipers. I am using a spacer, for now, to take up the play, but will order a different set of 3-piece hardware to try.
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With 22.2mm hardware I have a small amount of play in the upper shock mount. The hardware I have seems to spec measured with cheapo calipers. I am using a spacer, for now, to take up the play, but will order a different set of 3-piece hardware to try.
I have no play at all there, I even have to use some force to get the shock/bushing in position. In the lower mount I had to use some shims to remove play.
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Same kind of a problem as with my lower bearing... I have play at driveside... They should had used bearings or bushings instead of mounting direct in/on the carbon frame. Better bolts would help also.
Besides these small issues its a nice frame and bikes very wrll
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Good news. Half a liter of grease later and the linkage is finally silent. So is the bb! I did however just go back and forth a couple of times on the street outside my house so we’ll see if it stays silent.
Also found out that I can’t tighten the upper pivot bolt with suggested torque if I want smooth movement. Hopefully it will work anyway with some blue loctite.
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Same kind of a problem as with my lower bearing... I have play at driveside... They should had used bearings or bushings instead of mounting direct in/on the carbon frame. Better bolts would help also.
Besides these small issues its a nice frame and bikes very wrll
Maybe I am misunderstanding something, but the lower mounts do run on bearings, no?
Did that play develop after riding or was it from new?
What model is your shock and which upper mount hardware did you buy?
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Same kind of a problem as with my lower bearing... I have play at driveside... They should had used bearings or bushings instead of mounting direct in/on the carbon frame. Better bolts would help also.
Besides these small issues its a nice frame and bikes very wrll
Maybe I am misunderstanding something, but the lower mounts do run on bearings, no?
Did that play develop after riding or was it from new?
What model is your shock and which upper mount hardware did you buy?
They do run on bearings, but not only the part which goes through the seattube, the parts which go through the rear triangle dont have an extra sleave or bushing or so...its bare carbon.
I noticed it on my frame within the fist 1000km.
And my shock is a rs deluxe 165x42.5
Hooe this info helps
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I wonder if they use poor hardware on linkages compared to NS bikes. I wonder how much NS would charge for a bearing set? probably 100 or so. might be worth reaching out to acquire a set.
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Same kind of a problem as with my lower bearing... I have play at driveside... They should had used bearings or bushings instead of mounting direct in/on the carbon frame. Better bolts would help also.
Besides these small issues its a nice frame and bikes very wrll
Maybe I am misunderstanding something, but the lower mounts do run on bearings, no?
Did that play develop after riding or was it from new?
What model is your shock and which upper mount hardware did you buy?
They do run on bearings, but not only the part which goes through the seattube, the parts which go through the rear triangle dont have an extra sleave or bushing or so...its bare carbon.
I noticed it on my frame within the fist 1000km.
And my shock is a rs deluxe 165x42.5
Hooe this info helps
Sorry, I am still a bit confused. Do you mean this part?
(https://i.imgur.com/aG5bgF0.jpg)
If yes, then these rear triangle bolts run through bearings. The bearings sit in the rocker and are retained with circlips. See below:
(https://i.imgur.com/lwOq8Bs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IKGUF4e.jpg)
There are six bearings in this frame in total. The main issue I see is that the outer torx bolt on the rear triangle binds the conical washer (I am not sure if that's the correct term) underneath it directly on the carbon. If you're not careful with how you undo these bolts (you must undo the 5mm on the opposite end while holding the torx bolt still) the conical washer/spacer under the torx bolt will dig into/start peeling the outer layer of carbon. I see the NS Synonym rocker has a recess that the bolts in this position go in, so I am not sure if it's any better on the Synonym.
(https://i.imgur.com/FLgQKlJ.jpg)
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Almost done. Just gotta get the cockpit adjustments finalized and cut the steerer down to final length.
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Almost done. Just gotta get the cockpit adjustments finalized and cut the steerer down to final length.
Impressive weight! What’s the key? Drivetrain is probably a few hundred grams lighter than mine but where did you shave of the other 1,5kg? Super light wheels filled with helium?
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Everything is really light (not over the top light) except the saddle, post and tires - def could shave more weight there.
Fox 32sc
DT240s on light carbon rims (1250 grams for the set)
XTR 11sp shifter/der
XTR Race brakes & rotors
XX1 SL Dub cranks (those things were lighter than expected, like 420 grams with 32t ring)
Garbaruk 10-46 cassette
Mt Zoom bar
Kalloy Uno stem
ESI grips
BikeYoke Divine 125mm dropper
Ergon ti saddle (240 grams)
Schwalbe Ralph/Ray tires w/ orange seal (a set of Rons would have saved over a 1/4lb)
With pedals, bottle cage, wireless speed sensor and computer mount it was 21lbs 11oz
I picked up most of the parts on closeout or as take-offs from new bikes. Been collecting parts for this build for about 4 months.
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Nice build wfl3!
I am trying to figure out if i should get 175 or 170mm cranks. What do you guys suggest? (Im 191cm or 6' 3")
Is the BB to low for longer cranks?
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Nice build wfl3!
I am trying to figure out if i should get 175 or 170mm cranks. What do you guys suggest? (Im 191cm or 6' 3")
Is the BB to low for longer cranks?
I went with 175mm cranks since I am also a tall guy. On my test rides I noticed that the bb was quite low, but not annoyingly low. I f you run a 100mm fork you might want to consider 170mm cranks however. The bb height differ 7-8mm depending on if you use a 100mm or a 120mm fork. The SID 120mm 2021 that I use is actually 5mm longer that last years 120mm model so that also helped with my decision.
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what type of derailleur hanger does the frame use? Is one that's easy to replace through online bike shops or should I order spare ones from Carbonda?
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what type of derailleur hanger does the frame use? Is one that's easy to replace through online bike shops or should I order spare ones from Carbonda?
Not sure if you can get them from anywhere else. I asked carbonda to sent two extra hangers with the frame. I believe they charged a few dollars for them. A low price for one less thing to worry about.
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Fantastic build. Mine is a total porker compared to this in its current build list.
I am guessing the FOX 32SC is 100mm? If so what stroke length is the shock? I ask because I am thinking about adding a light 100mm fork for XC racing, and I am not sure if the bike would feel rather unbalanced with the rear 165x42.5 rear.
Everything is really light (not over the top light) except the saddle, post and tires - def could shave more weight there.
Fox 32sc
DT240s on light carbon rims (1250 grams for the set)
XTR 11sp shifter/der
XTR Race brakes & rotors
XX1 SL Dub cranks (those things were lighter than expected, like 420 grams with 32t ring)
Garbaruk 10-46 cassette
Mt Zoom bar
Kalloy Uno stem
ESI grips
BikeYoke Divine 125mm dropper
Ergon ti saddle (240 grams)
Schwalbe Ralph/Ray tires w/ orange seal (a set of Rons would have saved over a 1/4lb)
With pedals, bottle cage, wireless speed sensor and computer mount it was 21lbs 11oz
I picked up most of the parts on closeout or as take-offs from new bikes. Been collecting parts for this build for about 4 months.
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Yes 100mm fork and the rear shock is Fox Factory 165x40
I ordered one of those Fox Performance 165x42.5 linked above as a back up - those were a really good deal.
I don't think it will make much diff with either rear shock, I think it's about 6mm diff in travel and the geo will be the same since the overall length is the same.
I have 170mm cranks on mine, but I'm a little under 5' 10"
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I'm 6'2" and went with a 170 mm crank, and 120 mm fork. I don't envision ever going back to 175 mm cranks on any MTB in the future.
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Regarding creaking in the linkages, what I did to my other model fs late last year was to remove all bearings, then re-install with Loctite 648 retaining compound, the same I use on PF bottom brackets. So far so good. Can't stand creaks.
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Also 6'2" and running 170 on road, gravel, mountain...down from 175 years ago. I don't really notice it while pedaling but does impact fit, more so for road and gravel though. Helps if you prefer a higher cadence to spin up climbs.
My frame came in yesterday, waiting for a few more parts. So what is the consensuses on linkage bearings? Are they ok to move forward with the build or should I use this down time to disassemble and grease them?
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Also 6'2" and running 170 on road, gravel, mountain...down from 175 years ago. I don't really notice it while pedaling but does impact fit, more so for road and gravel though. Helps if you prefer a higher cadence to spin up climbs.
My frame came in yesterday, waiting for a few more parts. So what is the consensuses on linkage bearings? Are they ok to move forward with the build or should I use this down time to disassemble and grease them?
Definitely disassemble and grease. If anything, to prevent any potential corrosion at the bearing I.D./hardware interface which makes them a pain to remove when needed.
Regarding creaking in the linkages, what I did to my other model fs late last year was to remove all bearings, then re-install with Loctite 648 retaining compound, the same I use on PF bottom brackets. So far so good. Can't stand creaks.
Good advice. I have used Loctite 648 with success as well, but now I'd use 609 (less tensile shear strength than 648, easier to remove). Even something like Loctite 401 (which is essentially like superglue) helps and Cannondale recommends using it for bearing assembly on its Scalpel carbon frames.
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Nice build wfl3!
I am trying to figure out if i should get 175 or 170mm cranks. What do you guys suggest? (Im 191cm or 6' 3")
Is the BB to low for longer cranks?
I went with 175mm cranks since I am also a tall guy.
I have 170mm cranks on mine, but I'm a little under 5' 10"
I'm 6'2" and went with a 170 mm crank, and 120 mm fork.
Also 6'2" and running 170 on road, gravel, mountain...down from 175 years ago.
Nice little sample i got here :D
It sounds like both options works just fine. I think im leaning towards 170mm cranks as, come to think of it, I've never really been super picky with cranklength on previous bikes in the past. And since it gives a tiny bit more clearance (and probably also little bit more resell value) it seems like the slightly better option.
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Almost done. Just gotta get the cockpit adjustments finalized and cut the steerer down to final length.
looks great dude!! Looks fantastic. 8) Which Light carbon rims did you go with? manage to build them yourself? :) I'm doing the bill of materials for one at the moment! (quarantine activities) . Think I'll go with a mix of XT brakes (2 cylinder front, 1 cylinder back), derailleur, shifters with SLX cassette and cranks!
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Almost done. Just gotta get the cockpit adjustments finalized and cut the steerer down to final length.
looks great dude!! Looks fantastic. 8) Which Light carbon rims did you go with? manage to build them yourself? :) I'm doing the bill of materials for one at the moment! (quarantine activities) . Think I'll go with a mix of XT brakes (2 cylinder front, 1 cylinder back), derailleur, shifters with SLX cassette and cranks!
Those were built by iubike (now defunct) and were on a previous bike. EIE has what looks like the same rim: https://www.eiecarbon.com/a29c25d22s-mountain-bike-carbon-rims.html
I almost went with SLX brakes because the hose routing was so much cleaner for the rear, but the levers didn't mesh well with the older XTR 11sp shifter for me and I didn't feel like converting it to i-spec.
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How did you guys contact Carbonda, any (dis)advantages to contacting them via their site compared to alibaba?
And hay anybody ordered the frame with BSA? Would be my preferred choice.
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How did you guys contact Carbonda, any (dis)advantages to contacting them via their site compared to alibaba?
And hay anybody ordered the frame with BSA? Would be my preferred choice.
I contacted them via Skype, and Adam @ Carbonda has been fairly quick with replies.
See page 21 of this thread ( http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.300.html (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.300.html) ). @Zdrenka89 ordered a frame with a BSA BB. I think someone else tried but he was told they're all out and he'd need to a minimum order quantity of frames for them to make them with threaded BBs.
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How did you guys contact Carbonda, any (dis)advantages to contacting them via their site compared to alibaba?
And hay anybody ordered the frame with BSA? Would be my preferred choice.
I got in contact with them through their webiste. Dont know if there is a difference compared to Alibaba. I communicated with Adam aswell.
I have ordered with BSA like mentioned above, but the frame is being painted so delivery will take time.
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Those were built by iubike (now defunct) and were on a previous bike. EIE has what looks like the same rim: https://www.eiecarbon.com/a29c25d22s-mountain-bike-carbon-rims.html
I almost went with SLX brakes because the hose routing was so much cleaner for the rear, but the levers didn't mesh well with the older XTR 11sp shifter for me and I didn't feel like converting it to i-spec.
Their wheels are really cheap. Wonder if anyone has tried them?
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Those were built by iubike (now defunct) and were on a previous bike. EIE has what looks like the same rim: https://www.eiecarbon.com/a29c25d22s-mountain-bike-carbon-rims.html
I almost went with SLX brakes because the hose routing was so much cleaner for the rear, but the levers didn't mesh well with the older XTR 11sp shifter for me and I didn't feel like converting it to i-spec.
Their wheels are really cheap. Wonder if anyone has tried them?
Good info on those and others in this thread: https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/cheap-chinese-carbon-rims-673410-46.html#post14698207
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Anyone running a 34T oval chainring on their FM936? If yes, what crank/chainring combo are you running and how's your chainring chainstay clearance?
My BlackSpire NW Oval 34T on Shimano M8000 (non-boost) doesn't clear the chainstay (not too surprised, just thought I'd try). Back to a round 34T chainring for now, but I love oval rings. Chainline is pretty good with a non-boost crank so if at all possible, I'd rather not buy a boost crank to run oval unless that's the only solution.
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Those were built by iubike (now defunct) and were on a previous bike. EIE has what looks like the same rim: https://www.eiecarbon.com/a29c25d22s-mountain-bike-carbon-rims.html
I almost went with SLX brakes because the hose routing was so much cleaner for the rear, but the levers didn't mesh well with the older XTR 11sp shifter for me and I didn't feel like converting it to i-spec.
Their wheels are really cheap. Wonder if anyone has tried them?
Good info on those and others in this thread: https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/cheap-chinese-carbon-rims-673410-46.html#post14698207
Thanks, had forgotten about the Cheap Chinese Wheel thread.
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Those were built by iubike (now defunct) and were on a previous bike. EIE has what looks like the same rim: https://www.eiecarbon.com/a29c25d22s-mountain-bike-carbon-rims.html
I almost went with SLX brakes because the hose routing was so much cleaner for the rear, but the levers didn't mesh well with the older XTR 11sp shifter for me and I didn't feel like converting it to i-spec.
Their wheels are really cheap. Wonder if anyone has tried them?
Good info on those and others in this thread: https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-components/cheap-chinese-carbon-rims-673410-46.html#post14698207
Neat! I'm searching from for some 30mm internal diameter ones - seems they're the go to for pros doing marathon. I love the look of the new shimano XT hubs with straight pull - but most places only offer DT swiss.
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Neat! I'm searching from for some 30mm internal diameter ones - seems they're the go to for pros doing marathon. I love the look of the new shimano XT hubs with straight pull - but most places only offer DT swiss.
Im actually building wheels on those Straight pull XT hubs. They seem like good value. I ordered 360g Carbonfan XY T800 29mm internal carbon rims to lace them into. Should be around 1500g wheelset weight.
I ordered the hubs to do some measurements myself as I'm somewhat sceptical of the listed dimensions from Shimano.
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Neat! I'm searching from for some 30mm internal diameter ones - seems they're the go to for pros doing marathon. I love the look of the new shimano XT hubs with straight pull - but most places only offer DT swiss.
For my marathon 29er I went with 25mm rear, 30mm front. Carbonfan T800 rims were 300g/360g. It works nicely.
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Same kind of a problem as with my lower bearing... I have play at driveside... They should had used bearings or bushings instead of mounting direct in/on the carbon frame. Better bolts would help also.
Besides these small issues its a nice frame and bikes very wrll
Maybe I am misunderstanding something, but the lower mounts do run on bearings, no?
Did that play develop after riding or was it from new?
What model is your shock and which upper mount hardware did you buy?
They do run on bearings, but not only the part which goes through the seattube, the parts which go through the rear triangle dont have an extra sleave or bushing or so...its bare carbon.
I noticed it on my frame within the fist 1000km.
And my shock is a rs deluxe 165x42.5
Hooe this info helps
Sorry, I am still a bit confused. Do you mean this part?
(https://i.imgur.com/aG5bgF0.jpg)
If yes, then these rear triangle bolts run through bearings. The bearings sit in the rocker and are retained with circlips. See below:
(https://i.imgur.com/lwOq8Bs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IKGUF4e.jpg)
There are six bearings in this frame in total. The main issue I see is that the outer torx bolt on the rear triangle binds the conical washer (I am not sure if that's the correct term) underneath it directly on the carbon. If you're not careful with how you undo these bolts (you must undo the 5mm on the opposite end while holding the torx bolt still) the conical washer/spacer under the torx bolt will dig into/start peeling the outer layer of carbon. I see the NS Synonym rocker has a recess that the bolts in this position go in, so I am not sure if it's any better on the Synonym.
(https://i.imgur.com/FLgQKlJ.jpg)
The lower pivot is the main concern. Yes the rest have aluminium inserts in them...lower pivot doenst, the bolts go direct on the carbon
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For my marathon 29er I went with 25mm rear, 30mm front. Carbonfan T800 rims were 300g/360g. It works nicely.
Interesting. Do you mind to share the logic behind having different wheels width for front and rear ?
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For my marathon 29er I went with 25mm rear, 30mm front. Carbonfan T800 rims were 300g/360g. It works nicely.
Interesting. Do you mind to share the logic behind having different wheels width for front and rear ?
For me the reason is to run a bigger tire with a bit more footprint up front. I run a couple of my bikes like this.
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Hello,
i am new in the forum!
I have already buyed the frame fm936. Now i look for the right shock.
I found this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143042612579
Is is the right one? There is some Note:
Note: If your frame uses a shock with eyelets on both ends, this shock will not work. Please look at the photos. This shock has an eyelet on one end and a trunnion mount on the other. This is a newer configuration and is not compatible with older bicycles
Can anyone help me?
Thanks
Maze44
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I found this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143042612579
Is is the right one?
Yes, this shock will work according to what everyone has posted here. Trunnion, 165mm eye to eye and a maximum of 42.5mm stroke.
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I found this one:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143042612579
Is is the right one?
Yes, this shock will work according to what everyone has posted here. Trunnion, 165mm eye to eye and a maximum of 42.5mm stroke.
Thank you!
Can you tell me what size I need for the damper bushing?
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Can you tell me what size I need for the damper bushing?
Some people are tight with 22.2mm. Others have a little bit of play with the same width. The best thing to do is wait for the frame a measure by yourself with a good caliper.
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Struggling to find a good value 120mm 44mm offset boost fork. My analysis so far if anyone looking in the future:
The SID 120mm 44mm offset: https://www.bike24.com/p2373675.html?q=rockshox%20sid 700+euros
Marzocchi Bomber Z2 - 29" Fork - 120mm - Tapered - 44mm Offset https://www.bike24.com/p2334352.html 599euros
RockShox 35 Gold RL Debon Air 29" https://www.bike24.com/p2374654.html?q=44mm%20offset 400+ (depending on site)
Rebas at 29" only have 51mm offset, does a 29 wheel fit in the 27.5 model with the 44mm offset? - doubt it. https://www.bike24.com/p2330654.html 381 euros (can go cheaper on ebay)
Seems odd to pay more for a Rockshox 35 gold than for a Reba which is the product line above. If anyone has any guidance or other model suggestions I'd much appreciate it.
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I've been around the block too for trying to find the right option.
The SID also comes in a 'Select' Variant for 200 euros less if it has interest. It has the same chassis and spring but heavier and less sophisticated damper.
Regarding the Rockshox 35 Gold RL - it seems to be a very mixed bag out there. I've seen reports of sticky stanchions and very unsmooth operation on some review units. Most seems to work ok, but it sounds like a gamble.
a forth option is the DVO Sapphire 34. It comes standart in 140mm but should be very easy to shorten to 120mm from what i can read. Still not cheap though...
Personally i will probably fork out (pun intended) the extra money for the SID Ultimate as its a component where i just dont want to end up dissapointed.
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Here some file for the right dumper. I got the file from carbonda:
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Struggling to find a good value 120mm 44mm offset boost fork. My analysis so far if anyone looking in the future:
The SID 120mm 44mm offset: https://www.bike24.com/p2373675.html?q=rockshox%20sid 700+euros
Marzocchi Bomber Z2 - 29" Fork - 120mm - Tapered - 44mm Offset https://www.bike24.com/p2334352.html 599euros
RockShox 35 Gold RL Debon Air 29" https://www.bike24.com/p2374654.html?q=44mm%20offset 400+ (depending on site)
Rebas at 29" only have 51mm offset, does a 29 wheel fit in the 27.5 model with the 44mm offset? - doubt it. https://www.bike24.com/p2330654.html 381 euros (can go cheaper on ebay)
Seems odd to pay more for a Rockshox 35 gold than for a Reba which is the product line above. If anyone has any guidance or other model suggestions I'd much appreciate it.
Don't get too hung up on offset. I am running a 51mm offset fork and it's fine on my (narrow/technical) trails. I am looking at a RockShox SID Select 120 , but the Suntour Aion 35 (lowered to 120mm, A2C=531) works so well (it's just much heavier than a SID 120) that I am considering putting off the fork purchase until I have some more riding time on that frame.
Bike24 has a discounted DVO Sapphire 29 140mm boost in 51mm offset. You can lower it to 120mm and it would be fantastic with this frame. Highly tunable damper, stiff and a good value for this class of fork. I'd go that route if I wasn't looking for a remote lockout fork.
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Don't get too hung up on offset. I am running a 51mm offset fork and it's fine on my (narrow/technical) trails. I am looking at a RockShox SID Select 120 , but the Suntour Aion 35 (lowered to 120mm, A2C=531) works so well (it's just much heavier than a SID 120) that I am considering putting off the fork purchase until I have some more riding time on that frame.
Bike24 has a discounted DVO Sapphire 29 140mm boost in 51mm offset. You can lower it to 120mm and it would be fantastic with this frame. Highly tunable damper, stiff and a good value for this class of fork. I'd go that route if I wasn't looking for a remote lockout fork.
Thans for the details. seems r2 bike has a 51mm offset SID select going for 400 https://r2-bike.com/ROCK-SHOX-Suspension-Fork-29-SID-Select-SA-DebonAir-120-mm-BOOST-tapered-black a steal if anyone is looking!
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Rockshox 35 gold has 35 mm stanchions i believe the Reba has 32 mm stanchions, if you are worried about sticking fork, how about Marizochi bomber z2? Its got the same internals as a Fox Rhythm 34 , 34 mm stanchions and is the new choice for alot of manufacturers , its on the new Marin Riftzone
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Can you tell me what size I need for the damper bushing?
Some people are tight with 22.2mm. Others have a little bit of play with the same width. The best thing to do is wait for the frame a measure by yourself with a good caliper.
Where do we go to even look for bushings?
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Where do we go to even look for bushings?
Most online retailers or your LBS? It's a fairly common and easy to obtain part.
The hardware I bought is exactly 22.2mm measured with calipers. The distance between the upper mounting points on my FM936's linkage is 22.7mm. That is half a mm difference and there is noticable play with the shock mounted and everything torqued up. Love the frame, but I am not happy about this and have emailed Adam about it. He said he's "talking to QC" and will get back to me.
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Where do we go to even look for bushings?
Most online retailers or your LBS? It's a fairly common and easy to obtain part.
The hardware I bought is exactly 22.2mm measured with calipers. The distance between the upper mounting points on my FM936's linkage is 22.7mm. That is half a mm difference and there is noticable play with the shock mounted and everything torqued up. Love the frame, but I am not happy about this and have emailed Adam about it. He said he's "talking to QC" and will get back to me.
Will be sorted, I'm sure...but first you will get spacers or some other solution, but I would advice you to ask for a new linkage! To much play will sort in more play and eventually failure.
Read my earlier post about lower bearing/pivot issue...They just sent me a new rear.
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Where do we go to even look for bushings?
Most online retailers or your LBS? It's a fairly common and easy to obtain part.
The hardware I bought is exactly 22.2mm measured with calipers. The distance between the upper mounting points on my FM936's linkage is 22.7mm. That is half a mm difference and there is noticable play with the shock mounted and everything torqued up. Love the frame, but I am not happy about this and have emailed Adam about it. He said he's "talking to QC" and will get back to me.
Will be sorted, I'm sure...but first you will get spacers or some other solution, but I would advice you to ask for a new linkage! To much play will sort in more play and eventually failure.
Read my earlier post about lower bearing/pivot issue...They just sent me a new rear.
Yes, I have already asked for a new linkage. In the meantime I machined down a wider 8mm bore mount I had in my parts bin to the right span width, and it works fine. Glad to know they sorted out your rear triangle's problem!
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So, I have a few rides on the bike and I think it's time to share some thoughts:
(https://i.imgur.com/cWA6sgl.jpg)
Frame build quality:
I ordered a medium superlight version in medium, UD matte.
- Weight for the medium "superlight" version was over what I expected. Not by much, but just slightly over their "+/- 50g" claim.
- Frame construction is very good. The inside is a little rough in places, but nothing I haven't seen on many brand name frames I own/have owned.
- Linkage came with the upper shock mounting spacing 0.5mm wider than spec (see my previous posts). Hairline crack in the paint on the linkage's left side after the first ride. I highly doubt it's anything but paint, but I am going to sand down the paint to verify.
- BB pressed in very smoothly without issues (Wheels MFG). I was actually worried the ease of which it pressed in might cause creaks, but so far so good. Crank axle went in nice and easy which means well-aligned BB shell holes. Time will tell...too early to judge any longevity issues.
- Internal cable routing was fairly straightforward. The holes in the port covers appear be just slightly undersized for hydraulic lines, but they closed nice and flush with some persuasion.
- Frame hardware came dry from the factory and not torqued to spec. I disassembled, lubed everything up and torqued everything to spec. The bearings used aren't fantastic quality, but they're fine for now (weren't notch or loose in the bores, etc).
Current build spec:
- 2018 Fox Float DPS 165x42.5, LV EVOL (more on that later)
- SR Suntour Aion 35 (lowered to 120mm, 331 A2C).
- XT M8000 Drivetrain with a ZTTO SLR2 11-46 cassette., KMC chain, SRAM XO shifter (yes, works great with an XT 11-speed rear derailleur) and XT M8000 pedals.
- Crank Brothers Cobalt 3 wheels. Goodyear Escape rear, WTB TrailBoss 2.25 Front.
- Crank Brothers Highline 150mm dropper*, WTB SL8 Team wide saddle.
- ZTTO 35x50mm stem with Race Face Next R 35mmx800mm handlebar (which I plan on trimming down to 780mm).
12.7kg inc pedals with the current build spec. With a lighter fork (SID 120) I can bring it down to around 12.1kg. Carbon wheels will easily make it sub 11kg without even trying to go lighter with XTR parts, etc.
Ride:
(https://i.imgur.com/K1570k8.jpg)
- The suspension is very efficient but also rather active. It rides somewhat similar to my Cannondale Scalpel Si 3 (a flex stay design as well) but feels much plusher on the descents (no surprise as it is a 120mm rear vs the 100mm Scalpel...and large volume shock air can on the Carbonda)
- This is a relatively high leverage frame (2.8:1) and with the Fox Float EVOL LV shock on it, I found that I needed about 240psi in the shock to get 25% sag (I am 75-76kg geared up). NS specs the LV shocks on the Synonym TR, but we don't know the shock tune. I am not unhappy with the shock but I have a preference towards shocks sitting higher up in the travel. It's fairly active (not in a bad way) and I miss the lockouts I have on my Scalpel for sprinting. I am going to put an air volume spacer and see how it feels with this.
- Climbing: Despite its radical geometry, the frame does indeed have an XC pedigree. My position on the bike on steep climbs feels very centered, and I ascribe that to the steep ST angle. If anything, with the extra travel and much slacker head angle, it climbs as well as my Scalpel on pretty much everything other than smooth double track where the lockouts play a big role in out-of-the saddle hammering. One thing where it falls short is technical climbs with rocky step-ups or ledges: the bottom bracket is super low and you need to work on your crank ratchet game if you don't want to keep bashing pedals (read more on the BB height below).
- Descending: It's much plusher than I expected. Really tracks the ground and feels like a bigger bike. The low stack and very slack (for its class) head angle make for a really fun (and controllable at speed) ride. A regular 32mm tubed fork is totally fine for most purposes, but a 34mm or 35mm stanchioned fork really stiffens things up on the front end and enables you to get the most out of that geometry if you live somewhere with rough descents. (that's why I think a SID 120 35mm is the perfect fork for this frame: stiff enough, very light and can come with a lockout).
- At 326mm with a 120mm fork, the bottom bracket height is among the lowest I have ever ridden on a full-suspension bike. It's really LOW. It's a good bit lower than bikes in the same class: YT Izzo is 334, Nukeproof Reactor 290 C is 336mm, Mondraker Dune DC RR is 337mm, Yeti SB130 is 337. Granted: most of these bikes spec a 130mm fork with a taller A2C length, but even a Yeti SB100 has a 336mm high BB. I am running 170mm cranks and still bashing pedals more than any of my other bikes (on familiar trails). The bike is really planted in corners, but the very low BB height is something to keep in mind if you ride rocky/rooty/technical trails. The other bikes I ride don't have particularly tall BB heights, but with this one there will certainly be some getting used to period.
Other issues:
- S3/E-Type for a light top-only chain guide mounts would have been a nice option! I haven't lost the chain yet going down some fairly rough descents, though.
- Chainline is great with my non-boost XT M8000 crank, but my beloved 34T oval doesn't clear the chainstay. I am going to find a boost crank to run an oval chainring as I do on all my bikes, but will chainlink be worse? I don't know yet.
*Yes, I know the dropper cable is too long and rear brake line is too short: waiting on some other parts to trim everything to length and tidy up the cabling with heat-shrink tubing :)
Edited for spelling.
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- Linkage came with the upper shock mounting spacing 0.5mm wider than spec (see my previous posts). Hairline crack in the paint on the linkage's left side after the first ride. I highly doubt it's anything but paint, but I am going to sand down the paint to verify.
Can you Post some foto of the crack? Thanks
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Thanks so much for the detailed write-up! The bike looks great!
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My FM936 standard XL ended up at 11.4 kg with pedals and bottle cage which I am very satisfied with. With a pair of nice carbon wheels, carbon cranks and a new cassette it could be possible to get closer to 10.5 Kg. Especially if I loose the dropper (but why would I wanna do that? :)).
Full Spec:
Carbonda fm936 Standard XL
Rockshox 29" SID Ultimate 120 mm blue 2021
2018 FOX Perf 165 x 42.5 DPS Float
Race face next 760mm
77Designz stem 1 45mm
Cane Creek slamset
MAGURA MT Trail Sport with Storm SL.2 180/160mm
ESI GRIPS Soft Grip Chunky
Rear deraileur XT 11-spd Rear RD-M8000
Trigger SHIMANO XT SL-M8000 I-Spec II for 11
Casette SRAM GX | 11-speed XG-1150 | 10-42
SRAM PC X1 Bicycle Chain 11
SRAM GX Eagle DUB Crank 1x12 BOOST
Hunt trail wide wheels, 30mm inner
Schwalbe racing ray/ralph evo
Tubeless
Seat Specilized phenom pro elasto 155mm
OneUp V2 Dropper 150mm + OneUp remote
KCNC MTB SC11 Seat Clamp
Shimano Pedal, PD-M540
Some thoughts:
Took the first 40+km ride this weekend and everything seems to hold up well. Bike is fast and agile. Climbs very well. I am used to ride a 140/140mm trail bike though... The bike is quite long but I only noticed that on a couple of really tight/narrow/slow passages. BB is low as mentioned in other posts but for me that is not an issue, you just have to be aware and adapt. Also it is nice with a low center of mass.
I got cranks with a boost chain ring on now, but the chain line looks a bit off so I may try a non-boost chain ring.
I had two issues building the bike. The first one was that I couldn´t fit my 180mm dropper beacuse of a manufacturing error. Carbonda compensated me for that and I switched to a 150mm instead which should be enough. Saved 50 grams too =). The other issue was that the linkage was mounted completely dry, but it seems fine after a full do-over.
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@Schoobang: Very nice build! Love that stem and now I want one :)
I think the 1.3kg difference in weight between our builds is mostly in the fork (yours is approx 600 lighter!) and tires. I dare not run those Schwalbes where I ride, though! I think I might rip them on the first ride out :)
What do you weigh and what pressure are you running in your shock?
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@Schoobang looks great! You'll have to give us a side shot ;D
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@Schoobang looks great! You'll have to give us a side shot ;D
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That looks sharp. I probably would have gone for the new RS fork too if I didn't have the Fox SC already.
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@Schoobang: Very nice build! Love that stem and now I want one :)
I think the 1.3kg difference in weight between our builds is mostly in the fork (yours is approx 600 lighter!) and tires. I dare not run those Schwalbes where I ride, though! I think I might rip them on the first ride out :)
What do you weigh and what pressure are you running in your shock?
The stem is really nice. Weights exactly as spec says. I was a bit worried it might flex too much but it seems solid enough for this kind of bike.
I weigh about 79kg and I run the shock at 220 psi if I remember correctly.
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Rides looks fab guys!
@zilcho Any pics of your build-up with the nice purple glitter?
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So... An update...
Got the new rear part, not direct from Carbonda, but from a nice English guy who had my rear instead of a waranty bike.
Good for me, because I had it a couple of days later.
Very nice of carbonda to ad extra bolts and spacers and a 3th derrailerhanger.
So hopefully this will sort the issue.
Oh...before riding open up all your bearings and add extra grease...mine went dry after 1000km!
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So... An update...
Got the new rear part, not direct from Carbonda, but from a nice English guy who had my rear instead of a waranty bike.
Good for me, because I had it a couple of days later.
Very nice of carbonda to ad extra bolts and spacers and a 3th derrailerhanger.
So hopefully this will sort the issue.
Oh...before riding open up all your bearings and add extra grease...mine went dry after 1000km!
That's great customer service. I'm honestly very impressed, they seems to be almost better than name brands who can make you really jump through hoops.
So they managed to send it to the wrong address ahaha? ;D ;D
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So... An update...
Got the new rear part, not direct from Carbonda, but from a nice English guy who had my rear instead of a waranty bike.
Good for me, because I had it a couple of days later.
Very nice of carbonda to ad extra bolts and spacers and a 3th derrailerhanger.
So hopefully this will sort the issue.
Oh...before riding open up all your bearings and add extra grease...mine went dry after 1000km!
That's great customer service. I'm honestly very impressed, they seems to be almost better than name brands who can make you really jump through hoops.
So they managed to send it to the wrong address ahaha? ;D ;D
Even stranger...I had contact with Adam about sending the rear and within a hour I had contact with this english guy ::)
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Update from my faulty frame:
Received a new front triangle and now seems perfect. I will assemble and try during next week.
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Rides looks fab guys!
@zilcho Any pics of your build-up with the nice purple glitter?
Not yet, I'm still waiting on a few parts from different Chinese vendors that have been stuck in a shipping void for the past month. I'll definitely post pics once I get everything in!
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So this is pretty cool, they're a Brazillian brand selling the FM936 under their own name! I came across it on instagram by accident.
Some cool paint jobs and build specs! The brand offers a lifetime warranty and custom painting.
Link to the bike 9.8kg!
https://edrobikes.com.br/site/produto/range1/ (https://edrobikes.com.br/site/produto/range1/)
Instagram
https://www.instagram.com/p/B7E1lPJHi70/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/B7E1lPJHi70/)
brand's instagram: https://www.instagram.com/edrobikes/ (https://www.instagram.com/edrobikes/)
Some youtube videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwXSu02RtQo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WiWhrInXrQ&
something about geo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzZlKOA32JU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWGHWU--gZk
a race on the bike - great video!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uTtYi2o3b8
^ I dont know why my youtube links arnt showing without code mode, sorry if this is against rules.
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Nice looking bike. I knew that frame looked familiar. Similar to BMC fourstroke
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Nice looking bike. I knew that frame looked familiar. Similar to BMC fourstroke
Not really...
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So this is pretty cool, they're a Brazillian brand selling the FM936 under their own name! I came across it on instagram by accident.
Some cool paint jobs and build specs! The brand offers a lifetime warranty and custom painting.
Link to the bike 9.8kg!
https://edrobikes.com.br/site/produto/range1/ (https://edrobikes.com.br/site/produto/range1/)
Instagram
https://www.instagram.com/p/B7E1lPJHi70/ (https://www.instagram.com/p/B7E1lPJHi70/)
brand's instagram: https://www.instagram.com/edrobikes/ (https://www.instagram.com/edrobikes/)
Some youtube videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwXSu02RtQo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5WiWhrInXrQ&
something about geo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gzZlKOA32JU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWGHWU--gZk
a race on the bike - great video!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uTtYi2o3b8
^ I dont know why my youtube links arnt showing without code mode, sorry if this is against rules.
The prices are pretty steep though I'd say.
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Hi All, Looking to buy one of these frames in a few months and build it up over the Canadian winter... one thing that I don't understand is how I know what crankset will work with these. Q factor/chainline are something I don't understand fully - can anyone tell me what I would need to run 10, 11 or 12 speed? Does the speed on the back affect the q factor/chainline? If anyone has a link to a good reading source where I can educate myself on how to make sure I buy the right crankset. Any help is appreciated, thanks
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148mm Boost hubs moves the whole cassette out by 3mm compared 142mm hubs. therefore the Crankset chainline also needs to move out 3mm. Ideal chainline is considered to be 52mm.
This article explains the matter into more depth :)
https://enduro-mtb.com/en/tech-talk-whats-the-boost-standard-all-about/
The amount of gears that the cassette have doesnt affect chainline, however most older systems that use 10 or 11 speeds were'nt made with boost spacing in mind. Therefore you might need a new crankset or a new boost correcting chainring that adds 3mm of chainline to get proper shifting performance across the whole cassette.
Q Factor describes the distance from outside crankarm to outside crankarm and is not directly related to shifting performance or boost spacing. However a bike with boost spacing might have slightly wider Q factor to make sure your heels dont hit the chainstays.
https://rideissi.com/files/product/iSSi_StanceWidth_Graphic_1.jpg
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148mm Boost hubs moves the whole cassette out by 3mm compared 142mm hubs. therefore the Crankset chainline also needs to move out 3mm. Ideal chainline is considered to be 52mm.
This article explains the matter into more depth :)
https://enduro-mtb.com/en/tech-talk-whats-the-boost-standard-all-about/
The amount of gears that the cassette have doesnt affect chainline, however most older systems that use 10 or 11 speeds were'nt made with boost spacing in mind. Therefore you might need a new crankset or a new boost correcting chainring that adds 3mm of chainline to get proper shifting performance across the whole cassette.
Q Factor describes the distance from outside crankarm to outside crankarm and is not directly related to shifting performance or boost spacing. However a bike with boost spacing might have slightly wider Q factor to make sure your heels dont hit the chainstays.
https://rideissi.com/files/product/iSSi_StanceWidth_Graphic_1.jpg
Excellent reply and links to articles, thanks a ton!
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For the dropper cable, did yall run it in front or beyond the lower pivot bolt? Above or below the BB shell? The supplied cable housing with my OneUp dropper seems a little short for my size large frame, currently behind pivot bolt and above BB shell.
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I went in front and above, but I also ran SP 41 housing that I had rather than what came with my dropper.
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I went in front and above, but I also ran SP 41 housing that I had rather than what came with my dropper.
Thanks, seems like a slightly easier feed through on the front of the pivot.
Next question: Rear brake line and shifter housing, above or below shock? NS seems to run both (TR/RC1 under, TR/RC2 over) and the builds in this thread are mixed too.
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I went in front and above, but I also ran SP 41 housing that I had rather than what came with my dropper.
Thanks, seems like a slightly easier feed through on the front of the pivot.
Next question: Rear brake line and shifter housing, above or below shock? NS seems to run both (TR/RC1 under, TR/RC2 over) and the builds in this thread are mixed too.
Feeding that dropper cable up the seat tube was a major PITA for me (above BB, in front of pivot).
I preferred the way the brake/shifter housing below shock looked, but in the end I went with over because it produces a straighter line for the der cable which should give a little better shift performance IMO.
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I routed the cable and hose above the shock bolts as well, going under just seemed wrong to me for the shift performance/shorter run reasons.
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@Schoobang: Very nice build! Love that stem and now I want one :)
I think the 1.3kg difference in weight between our builds is mostly in the fork (yours is approx 600 lighter!) and tires. I dare not run those Schwalbes where I ride, though! I think I might rip them on the first ride out :)
What do you weigh and what pressure are you running in your shock?
The stem is really nice. Weights exactly as spec says. I was a bit worried it might flex too much but it seems solid enough for this kind of bike.
I weigh about 79kg and I run the shock at 220 psi if I remember correctly.
I am 188cm with an 88cm inseam. Do you think the L or XL is right for me?
Anyone else go with the XL who is on the border of sizes?
Thanks!!! Starting the order process now. Already have:
Sram X01 shifter, derailleur, cassette, and chain
Light Bicycle rims laced to American Classic hubs
SID RCT3 fork
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@Schoobang: Very nice build! Love that stem and now I want one :)
I think the 1.3kg difference in weight between our builds is mostly in the fork (yours is approx 600 lighter!) and tires. I dare not run those Schwalbes where I ride, though! I think I might rip them on the first ride out :)
What do you weigh and what pressure are you running in your shock?
The stem is really nice. Weights exactly as spec says. I was a bit worried it might flex too much but it seems solid enough for this kind of bike.
I weigh about 79kg and I run the shock at 220 psi if I remember correctly.
I am 188cm with an 88cm inseam. Do you think the L or XL is right for me?
Anyone else go with the XL who is on the border of sizes?
Thanks!!! Starting the order process now. Already have:
Sram X01 shifter, derailleur, cassette, and chain
Light Bicycle rims laced to American Classic hubs
SID RCT3 fork
Same height as you (not sure on my inseam), but have been wondering the exact same thing. Currently riding a 2019 Commencal Meta TR 29 XL that is 500mm reach with 76 degree seattube angle. Doesn't feel too long. I'm leaning towards XL on this frame due to seat tube angle (will sag less being a short travel bike as well), but still undecided. Might be nice to have this bike in L and have it be a bit more whippy/maneuverable as it's not like I'll need the extra length for going mach speeds due to the shorter travel. Curious what you think as well.
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I’ve always liked a shorter wheelbase and have gone size L my last three frames. I regret it on two of them. My last XL I still own and ride occasionally, 1996 Klein Adroit.
The Fuel EX puts me on a XL. I’m leaning XL. Shipping for $210 is a bit redic. I’m going to get a quote from BikeFlights to see if it is similar.
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I'm 190cm and have gone with a L. I was also split between L and XL. I actually initially ordered an XL but changed the order just in time before paint.
I drew some sketches in CAD to compare reach with my existing bikes and combined with other input online i found that XL is probably too long for what i want.
I could see myself ride an XL if:
- my trails were steeper (front wheel further out)
- my trails were less snaky (long wheelbase will be slightly harder to manouvre)
- i didnt want a more aggressive riding position.
That said this bike is still long(low & slack) compared to other brands XL sizes even so its great.
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I planned to buy such a frame but I‘m out.
If someone likes to buy my Fox Re-Activ shock that I planned to add to this frame, send me a PM.
It‘s a 165x40 Trunnion shock with remote.
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I'm 190cm and have gone with a L. I was also split between L and XL. I actually initially ordered an XL but changed the order just in time before paint.
I drew some sketches in CAD to compare reach with my existing bikes and combined with other input online i found that XL is probably too long for what i want.
I could see myself ride an XL if:
- my trails were steeper (front wheel further out)
- my trails were less snaky (long wheelbase will be slightly harder to manouvre)
- i didnt want a more aggressive riding position.
That said this bike is still long(low & slack) compared to other brands XL sizes even so its great.
Thanks for your input. Have you built up the bike and ridden it? What length stem are you running?
The XL with BSA is two month wait...
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- SR Suntour Aion 35 (lowered to 120mm, 331 A2C).
I'd be interested in a review of this fork? Does it measure up to the big boys of suspension?
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- SR Suntour Aion 35 (lowered to 120mm, 331 A2C).
I'd be interested in a review of this fork? Does it measure up to the big boys of suspension?
I am actually rather impressed with it considering how cheap it was. I bought it as a stopgap until I decide if I want a DVO Sapphire or a SID 35. I have 400km on it right now and it's actually not bad at all (to the point that I really can't justify the price of a SID 35 except for shedding a lot of weight, which for this bike is not a priority as I have it set up for fun...I have another pure XC racer). A few niggles, but can't complain for what I paid.
(https://i.imgur.com/SxHHSGJ.jpg)
The good:
- Cheap!
- Looks pretty good.
- Smooth through its travel and very stiff riding on rough trails.
- Travel conversion was super easy and I used an old RockShox spacer I had in my spares.
- Came with a cool integrated fender!
The bad:
- It's a porker. If I recall correctly when I weighed it, it's just under 2300g. With a SID 35 I'd easily shed 600g+ off my build.
- The damper is a basic, sealed unit (rebound and lockout) but it's upgradable to their fancier RC2 damper.
- There is a loud knock on bottom-outs/square-edged hits. Loud to the point of making me think I hit the rim. I'll have another look at the spring assembly to see what causes that.
- There was an occassional rattle. Went when I took apart, lubed the spring assembly and torqued everything to spec.
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Ordered the XL SL BB92.
I’ll post pics of the frame weight and the actual stack and reach measurements.
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Ordered the XL SL BB92.
I’ll post pics of the frame weight and the actual stack and reach measurements.
I'll be watching for your thoughts. I'm going to be ordering mine come September. You mentioned BSA BB was a 2 month wait?
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Thanks for your input. Have you built up the bike and ridden it? What length stem are you running?
The XL with BSA is two month wait...
I am missing some carbon rims that are taking a fair bit of time to get here so its still unfinished. I'll report when i have an idea whether my theory holds up.
Im going to run a 40mm stem.
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Ordered the XL SL BB92.
I’ll post pics of the frame weight and the actual stack and reach measurements.
I'll be watching for your thoughts. I'm going to be ordering mine come September. You mentioned BSA BB was a 2 month wait?
Yeah, the Super Light is in stock in L and XL, but BSA Super Light was not available in L or XL, XL BSA was a two month wait. I am not sure if BSA Super Light is even an option.
Wing recommended the XL after I sent him a picture of my current bike, Flyxii FR208 in 19". On a 400mm seatpost i am very close to minimum insertion.
Payment has been made, no shipping confirmed.
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We ordered 3 of them together !
I'm all for PF bottom brackets, light and easy to service when you have a press.
But since the only option available was BB92, we all went to BSA. And are waiting a little more than planned.
As I just said on the AM831 post, BB92 is really a poor choice if you plan to put a DUB spindle of 29, or a 30mm one.
The bearings are too thin, and just don't last.
They quickly develop a drag, and you are good for changing them very often.
We took the same paint job, inspired by the Arc8.
And since we are relatively weight conscious, they are just half-painted :D
Again great communication with Wing who was really helpful and patient with all our requests.
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We ordered 3 of them together !
I'm all for PF bottom brackets, light and easy to service when you have a press.
But since the only option available was BB92, we all went to BSA. And are waiting a little more than planned.
As I just said on the AM831 post, BB92 is really a poor choice if you plan to put a DUB spindle of 29, or a 30mm one.
The bearings are too thin, and just don't last.
They quickly develop a drag, and you are good for changing them very often.
I already have a press and have had good luck with the BB30 on my Flyxii. I am going to run a 24mm/GXP style spindle on this FM936. My XO crank spindle pictured above is too short.
I thought of waiting, but my bike is tired and I am at a new trail system since I built that hard tail.
Your bike's look sweet!!!
Edit - one key step to perform if you are using the vendor supplied bottom bracket bearings is to remove the dust seal and add high performance grease right to the bearings/races. Like a Phil Wood bearing grease. This goes a long long long way to making press fit perform like you want it to.
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We ordered 3 of them together !
I'm all for PF bottom brackets, light and easy to service when you have a press.
But since the only option available was BB92, we all went to BSA. And are waiting a little more than planned.
As I just said on the AM831 post, BB92 is really a poor choice if you plan to put a DUB spindle of 29, or a 30mm one.
The bearings are too thin, and just don't last.
They quickly develop a drag, and you are good for changing them very often.
We took the same paint job, inspired by the Arc8.
And since we are relatively weight conscious, they are just half-painted :D
Again great communication with Wing who was really helpful and patient with all our requests.
Oh man, those colours look great! Can you describe how the paint colour process goes? Do they have a selection that I pick off of or do I just give a pantone code? Thanks
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Oh man, those colours look great! Can you describe how the paint colour process goes? Do they have a selection that I pick off of or do I just give a pantone code? Thanks
Thank you :D We look forward to see them for real !
I tried to explain to Wing the more precisely I could what we wanted.
Giving them some existing bike pictures for some details, like color junctions/patterns, and some rough drawings.
And from all this, their designer made the pictures you see here.
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Oh...before riding open up all your bearings and add extra grease...mine went dry after 1000km!
By any chance anyone took note of all pivot bearings models present in the frame ?
6 x 6900 ?
I'm wondering if I won't put directly SKF or NTN bearings instead.
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Oh...before riding open up all your bearings and add extra grease...mine went dry after 1000km!
By any chance anyone took note of all pivot bearings models present in the frame ?
6 x 6900 ?
I'm wondering if I won't put directly SKF or NTN bearings instead.
6801 in trunnion mount, 6901 in main pivot and 6900 in link.
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6801 in trunnion mount, 6901 in main pivot and 6900 in link.
Thank you very much !
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6801 in trunnion mount, 6901 in main pivot and 6900 in link.
Thank you very much !
I reached out to RWC and asked them to put together an upgrade package for this frame. I'll let you know what they say...
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6801 in trunnion mount, 6901 in main pivot and 6900 in link.
Thank you very much !
I reached out to RWC and asked them to put together an upgrade package for this frame. I'll let you know what they say...
(https://memegenerator.net/img/instances/58567960/hell-yeah-brother.jpg)
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I reached out to RWC and asked them to put together an upgrade package for this frame. I'll let you know what they say...
Did you get any news from RWC ?
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I reached out to RWC and asked them to put together an upgrade package for this frame. I'll let you know what they say...
Did you get any news from RWC ?
Nope.
My frame shipped.
Need to order:
Shock - leaning toward the new RS SIDLuxe
Crank - leaning toward the GXP X01
Dropper - will build with a Thompson standard post, no rush on this. Want light, but durable and also maybe to match the shock and fork. So a Reverb or something from RS.
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Shock - leaning toward the new RS SIDLuxe
Like everyone ;)
However it is not available yet for non OEM, or do you have some connections ?
Dropper - will build with a Thompson standard post, no rush on this. Want light, but durable and also maybe to match the shock and fork. So a Reverb or something from RS.
I'm torn between a simple and light Elita One from Aliexpress or the shiny AXS Reverb.
But this is 500g and 500€ more :o
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Shock - leaning toward the new RS SIDLuxe
Like everyone ;)
However it is not available yet for non OEM, or do you have some connections ?
The site I ordered through said available 2 July. It could be an error, I placed the order yesterday and will let you know if/when it ships.
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I think I saw a 165x42,5 Sidluxe Ultimate listed on r2bike the other day - but i dont know If they started shipping.
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So I'm going to pull the trigger! Size L normal carbon.
I think I'll try for this paint job:
- Base colour SantaCruz highball purple colour https://www.dyedbro.com/collections/frame-protection/products/stay-free-t-colour
- Clear coat mild glitter effect: https://spray.bike/collections/keirin-collection/products/keirin-flake-kirakira-multi-200ml
I'm still unsure of the base colour. If anyone has any suggestions I'd love some ideas!
My only concern is, how robust are these paint jobs? Does anyone have any experience with the resilience to chips and such? Thanks!
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I think I saw a 165x42,5 Sidluxe Ultimate listed on r2bike the other day - but i dont know If they started shipping.
ProBikeSupply accepted my order and said the blue will ship in two weeks and the black will ship mid August.
I ordered the blue...
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I think I saw a 165x42,5 Sidluxe Ultimate listed on r2bike the other day - but i dont know If they started shipping.
Yes, it's there, says it'll ship in July. No remote though.
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So, is there a general consensus? Remote needed or not? Is there a lot of pedal bob?
My frame should be about ready to be shipped. Going for the SID ultimate and SIDluxe combo. Nice to save a few € on the remote if it's not needed + the SIDluxe is soon available without the remote.
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Why SID Ultimate instead of Fox 32 Factory SC?
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Why SID Ultimate instead of Fox 32 Factory SC?
I Want the 35mm stanchions for less flex. I have a 32 mm SID on a previous bike, and already at 100 mm it's a bit of a noodle. So when going for 120mm the Ulitmate seems perfect. Light and sturdy.
*Edit - If I would go for the Fox SC it would be the 34 version. But I believe that is both heavier and more expensive than the Ultimate?
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So, is there a general consensus? Remote needed or not? Is there a lot of pedal bob?
We'll start without remote, hopefully it is not needed.
I'm no anti-squat expert, but the ring you will use, and the cassette and usual sprockets when climbing will impact the bobbling. Right ?
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Why SID Ultimate instead of Fox 32 Factory SC?
For me it was lighter and surprisingly cheaper(for once !). Hard to beat.
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So, is there a general consensus? Remote needed or not? Is there a lot of pedal bob?
We'll start without remote, hopefully it is not needed.
I'm no anti-squat expert, but the ring you will use, and the cassette and usual sprockets when climbing will impact the bobbling. Right ?
Only downside to that is that it's really expensive to switch to a remote system.
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It depends on your intended use and trails. For Leadville/Breck Epic, of course I’d want lockout. Iceman, Ore2Shore yes lockout.
But, I ride twitchy, bumpy, never flat or smooth single track. Palos Chicago.
When I do lockout, it’s on gravel when I’m linking from home or a remote lot. In that case it’s fine for manual.
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Only downside to that is that it's really expensive to switch to a remote system.
Yeah... that is a good point.
Everyone is taking a 165x42.5 ?
Do you know why Carbonda is putting a 165x40, and what difference it makes.
It is only my second full suspension bike build :-[
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Mine has a little bit of bob, but not enough that I use the lockout. I had a fox rebuilt with a lockout so I would have it, but I just don't lock it out hardly ever any more. I could maybe see it in pure race situations when standard and hammering, but the lockout is only still there on mine because I haven't taken the time to remove it yet.
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Only downside to that is that it's really expensive to switch to a remote system.
Yeah... that is a good point.
Everyone is taking a 165x42.5 ?
Do you know why Carbonda is putting a 165x40, and what difference it makes.
It is only my second full suspension bike build :-[
Carbonda is only advertising it as a 100/100 frame. 165x40 will give 100mm of rear travel. I think a lot of us are copying the NS Synonym TR builds which are 120/120. 165x42.5 should give around 120mm of rear travel.
I've noticed a bit of bob when riding on the paved/gravel with the rear in mid or open, but after tuning a bit I really don't notice it on the trail. I'm also coming from road/gravel and my last mountain bike was a 26" hardtail Gary Fisher so not sure how a full suspension is supposed to feel either.
My build is done but waiting for new decals for fork and shock before finals pics. Happy to answer any other questions.
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I recently sent payment for a FM936 SL medium. I am 178cm(5'10). I got mine painted this color: RAL 4010.
New to building bikes. So far I've grabbed this:
https://www.bonanza.com/listings/Fox-Performance-165-x-42-5-Shock-Giant-Anthem-27-5-Trunnion-Dps-Float/848805570
And a Fox 34 Factory 120mm FIT4 with remote.
So far I have spent ~2300USD. Hoping to keep the bike under 11kg, 10.5 target.
I only want to spend another 2000 on bike parts, and I want to use strong aluminum wheels.
I would love any part recomendations or tips or helpful links. I dont have a bike stand or tools or anything.
Will post pictures of build progress.
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...RAL 4010...
Nice! Having a flashy bike makes your friends recognize you either when crossing them or even from afar.
And makes people come to you to talk about it ;)
...I want to use strong aluminum wheels...
Why not buy carbon wheels ? AM wheels are as strong if not stronger than aluminium, and come with this light feeling you get each time you accelerate.
You can get very good wheels from 500 to 900USD depending on the hubs and spokes you choose.
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Why not buy carbon wheels ? AM wheels are as strong if not stronger than aluminium, and come with this light feeling you get each time you accelerate.
You can get very good wheels from 500 to 900USD depending on the hubs and spokes you choose.
I make a lot of mistakes riding and carbon rims seems a bit more delicate. I'm hoping to get a very long life from aluminum rims.
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Why not buy carbon wheels ? AM wheels are as strong if not stronger than aluminium, and come with this light feeling you get each time you accelerate.
You can get very good wheels from 500 to 900USD depending on the hubs and spokes you choose.
I make a lot of mistakes riding and carbon rims seems a bit more delicate. I'm hoping to get a very long life from aluminum rims.
In my experience, carbon rims of similar weight and widths are quite a bit more durable than their aluminum counterparts. They are also a LOT stiffer laterally and increase steering precision IMO. They also, stay truer longer in my experience.
Been 100% on carbon on the MTB for well over a decade now and I've managed to break only one superlight XC 29er rim (305 grams) - that rim strike would have ruined an aluminum rim too (high speed, extremely low tire pressure). I ride lots of rocky stuff here on the east coast and my rims def get a beating and scarred up.
I was leery at first as well, just start with a heavier duty rim to gain confidence in them - something in the 425-450 range for XC will be plenty tough. If I was limited to one carbon item on a bike it would be rims 1st for me.
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Here are the wheels I am considering:
Carbon - https://www.lightbicycle.com/Hand-built-All-Mountain-Cross-country-carbon-29er-MTB-wheelset-30mm-wide-tubeless-compatible.html
AL - https://www.lamacycles.com/en/ns-bikes-octane-one/wheels-wheelsets/29-wheelsets/ns-wheelset-enigma-lite-29
I was going to go with the hunts new xc rim but they aren't in stock until the end of October.
Really stuck on how to save weight on a budget with the brakes and groupset.
Any recommendations for light weight groupset/brakes
Why not buy carbon wheels ? AM wheels are as strong if not stronger than aluminium, and come with this light feeling you get each time you accelerate.
You can get very good wheels from 500 to 900USD depending on the hubs and spokes you choose.
I make a lot of mistakes riding and carbon rims seems a bit more delicate. I'm hoping to get a very long life from aluminum rims.
In my experience, carbon rims of similar weight and widths are quite a bit more durable than their aluminum counterparts. They are also a LOT stiffer laterally and increase steering precision IMO. They also, stay truer longer in my experience.
Been 100% on carbon on the MTB for well over a decade now and I've managed to break only one superlight XC 29er rim (305 grams) - that rim strike would have ruined an aluminum rim too (high speed, extremely low tire pressure). I ride lots of rocky stuff here on the east coast and my rims def get a beating and scarred up.
I was leery at first as well, just start with a heavier duty rim to gain confidence in them - something in the 425-450 range for XC will be plenty tough. If I was limited to one carbon item on a bike it would be rims 1st for me.
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165x42.5 should give around 120mm of rear travel.
How did you calculate this?
The average suspension ratio should be 2.5 for this frame (100mm wheel travel with 40mm shock as stated by Carbonda)
So with a with 165x42.5 it would be 106.25 mm travel...? Am I missing something?
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165x42.5 should give around 120mm of rear travel.
How did you calculate this?
The average suspension ratio should be 2.5 for this frame (100mm wheel travel with 40mm shock as stated by Carbonda)
So with a with 165x42.5 it would be 106.25 mm travel...? Am I missing something?
I believe that calculation was based on linear thinking. When you look at the travel of the rear triangle it is dependent upon the shock stroke, leverage ratio, and the rear axle path. Depending on the suspension design, the initial rearward axle path will have a great effect on final travel. The only way to get an accurate travel number is to model the frame in a CAD program. And that measurement is a vertical wheel travel number. That's why the axle path is so important.
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is to model the frame in a CAD program.
One day im going to do that.... But dont hold your breath :D
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is to model the frame in a CAD program.
One day im going to do that.... But dont hold your breath :D
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165x42.5 should give around 120mm of rear travel.
How did you calculate this?
The average suspension ratio should be 2.5 for this frame (100mm wheel travel with 40mm shock as stated by Carbonda)
So with a with 165x42.5 it would be 106.25 mm travel...? Am I missing something?
I did not calculate this myself but am going off of what NS claims and other members in the forum.
https://nsbikes.com/synonym-tr1,429,pl.html
NS use a custom rear triangle from Carbonda but the linkage points are in the same location and it has the same chain stay length.
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NS Bikes also use a 37.5mm stroke shock for their race version with 100mm of travel. Carbonda state 100mm with a 40mm stroke.
https://nsbikes.com/synonym-rc-1,427,pl.html
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is to model the frame in a CAD program.
One day im going to do that.... But dont hold your breath :D
I'm trying to draw it up in CAD but I don't have enough dimensions to draw it. I need:
- The length from the rear axle to the joint between seat stay amd rocker link.
- the dimensions of the shock, chainstay and pivot frame linkage all relative to the BB
If someone gives me this, I can put it on CAD :)
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is to model the frame in a CAD program.
One day im going to do that.... But dont hold your breath :D
I'm trying to draw it up in CAD but I don't have enough dimensions to draw it. I need:
- The length from the rear axle to the joint between seat stay amd rocker link.
- the dimensions of the shock, chainstay and pivot frame linkage all relative to the BB
If someone gives me this, I can put it on CAD :)
Let me know if that helps or if I need to measure anything else.
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Let me know if that helps or if I need to measure anything else.
Perfect!! I should have explained better, I need the vertical offset (bit of trig) of these points relative to the centre of the BB:
- the lower shock bolt
- chain stay frame bolt
- frame rocker bolt
- [EDIT] no horizontal offset just the distances between the bolts on the rocker linkage
Completely understand if thats too much effort but i dont have my frame yet :P
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Let me know if that helps or if I need to measure anything else.
Perfect!! I should have explained better, I need the vertical offset (bit of trig) of these points relative to the centre of the BB:
- the lower shock bolt
- chain stay frame bolt
- frame rocker bolt
- [EDIT] no horizontal offset just the distances between the bolts on the rocker linkage
Completely understand if thats too much effort but i dont have my frame yet :P
lower shock bolt: 8cm
chain stay frame bolt: 6.5cm
frame rocker bolt: 22.5cm
linkage:
shock to frame bolt: 4.8cm
frame bolt to seat stay: 6.2cm
shock to seat stay: 8.8cm
They might be off by a couple of millimetres
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Given it a crack but im over 1cm off on the shock size so there's too much error accumalation. When I get my frame I'll measure it up anbd put my engineering degree to good use ahahah Thanks to zilcho for giving it a go however!
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I got poor results too when drawing something from the geometry file from Carbonda's web site + zilcho's measurements.
Scaling it properly to have the chainstay length correct, the shock length is almost good too. If someone had the courage to measure the A, B, C, D maybe the result would be better.
Some other dimensions are off, like if the drawing was between an S and a M.
But then I realized there must be some sag changing the initial 165mm, not sure how much this represent... compared to the travel ::)
(https://i.imgur.com/R3n7roN.png)
Too late to make any change anyway, r2-bike.com shipped the SIDLuxe 165x42.5 shock today !! :D
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My measurements before were to the BB. Assuming that ABCD are to the chain stay pivot, this is what I measured
A: 45.8
B: 43.2
C: 18.7
D: 20.2
165x42.5 has had zero issues for me so far, would be nice to see the numbers though
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Got me a 165x42,5 Fox Factory Float DPS EVOL. I normally wanted to have a 165x40, but the 42,5 was only 100€ new.
Hopefully I can run it together with a 100 SID Ultimate RD.
Any problems which might occur?
Using an XL frame. Carbonda recommended a 40mm
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Here are the wheels I am considering:
Carbon - https://www.lightbicycle.com/Hand-built-All-Mountain-Cross-country-carbon-29er-MTB-wheelset-30mm-wide-tubeless-compatible.html
AL - https://www.lamacycles.com/en/ns-bikes-octane-one/wheels-wheelsets/29-wheelsets/ns-wheelset-enigma-lite-29
I was going to go with the hunts new xc rim but they aren't in stock until the end of October.
Really stuck on how to save weight on a budget with the brakes and groupset.
Any recommendations for light weight groupset/brakes
Why not buy carbon wheels ? AM wheels are as strong if not stronger than aluminium, and come with this light feeling you get each time you accelerate.
You can get very good wheels from 500 to 900USD depending on the hubs and spokes you choose.
I make a lot of mistakes riding and carbon rims seems a bit more delicate. I'm hoping to get a very long life from aluminum rims.
In my experience, carbon rims of similar weight and widths are quite a bit more durable than their aluminum counterparts. They are also a LOT stiffer laterally and increase steering precision IMO. They also, stay truer longer in my experience.
Been 100% on carbon on the MTB for well over a decade now and I've managed to break only one superlight XC 29er rim (305 grams) - that rim strike would have ruined an aluminum rim too (high speed, extremely low tire pressure). I ride lots of rocky stuff here on the east coast and my rims def get a beating and scarred up.
I was leery at first as well, just start with a heavier duty rim to gain confidence in them - something in the 425-450 range for XC will be plenty tough. If I was limited to one carbon item on a bike it would be rims 1st for me.
When it comes to weight savings, spend the money to have it on the wheels. That's two fold benefit, static and rotational gains.
For brakes, don't over think it. Pick up some SLX or XT. Very affordable, very robust, decently light. I'd wager there's no better all-around brakes than a set of XTs with ICEtech rotors and pads. You could go 180mm or 4 piston if you need more breaking power, but I don't think you will.
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Just passing thru to read a bit. I'm now reminded of why I simply went full rigid. FS just became as complicated as advance mathematics.
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My measurements before were to the BB. Assuming that ABCD are to the chain stay pivot, this is what I measured
A: 45.8
B: 43.2
C: 18.7
D: 20.2
165x42.5 has had zero issues for me so far, would be nice to see the numbers though
I get again some stupid results.
Probably my assumption of having a 165mm shock when mounted is wrong.
Or maybe something else.
Could you get the E and F measurement, last try ;)
(https://i.imgur.com/nOZA90k.png)
The SIDLuxe arrived much quicker than I expected, the frame and wheels are still being built...
(https://i.imgur.com/WB9RndD.jpg)
And here is a very friendly video, ok marketing too, but full of details about the new SID:
https://youtu.be/XInsIHIcdZ0
A fun fact: It seems locking the fork/shock is a European thing :o
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Just the quote from Carbonda. Question about shipping, has anyone gone with the train option? haha might take a while but the savings are considerable.
From Adam (v helpful guy):
- shipping to The Republic of Ireland: 1,by train,90USD,shipping time 30-45 days,2,by XDB,185USD,shipping time 20-35 days.3,by DHL,220USD,shipping time one week. which do you prefer?
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I have a hard time of trusting any of the Chiner geometry drawings. Not because they are trying to deceive or are just getting it wrong. These open mold frames go through so many iterations that the one we see posted might not be the final iteration or at least the drawing is not updated to the most current geo numbers.
Having said that, you need to at least have a starting point to begin with. Without having a frame here in front of me to measure I have no choice but to reference the drawing. If I were to assume the drawing as listed on their site is accurate at 100mm travel, then according to my calculations shock travels would be as follows:
40mm shock = 101mm travel
42.5mm shock = 105mm travel
45mm shock = 112mm travel
My calculations come from a CAD program that has been used in Motorsports for years to model suspension kinematics and is dead nuts on!
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My measurements before were to the BB. Assuming that ABCD are to the chain stay pivot, this is what I measured
A: 45.8
B: 43.2
C: 18.7
D: 20.2
165x42.5 has had zero issues for me so far, would be nice to see the numbers though
I get again some stupid results.
Probably my assumption of having a 165mm shock when mounted is wrong.
Or maybe something else.
Could you get the E and F measurement, last try ;)
(https://i.imgur.com/nOZA90k.png)
The SIDLuxe arrived much quicker than I expected, the frame and wheels are still being built...
(https://i.imgur.com/WB9RndD.jpg)
And here is a very friendly video, ok marketing too, but full of details about the new SID:
https://youtu.be/XInsIHIcdZ0
A fun fact: It seems locking the fork/shock is a European thing :o
E: 5.7
F: 16.3
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I have a hard time of trusting any of the Chiner geometry drawings. Not because they are trying to deceive or are just getting it wrong. These open mold frames go through so many iterations that the one we see posted might not be the final iteration or at least the drawing is not updated to the most current geo numbers.
Having said that, you need to at least have a starting point to begin with. Without having a frame here in front of me to measure I have no choice but to reference the drawing. If I were to assume the drawing as listed on their site is accurate at 100mm travel, then according to my calculations shock travels would be as follows:
40mm shock = 101mm travel
42.5mm shock = 105mm travel
45mm shock = 112mm travel
My calculations come from a CAD program that has been used in Motorsports for years to model suspension kinematics and is dead nuts on!
Could you model the NS frame dimensions as well? Curious how it stacks up b/c the rear triangle measurements look the same to me, just visually different.
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And my last try... using Sketchup and all zilcho's measurements(sorry I didn't see your previous picture with the bike)
(https://i.imgur.com/mEdkxXu.png)
Not that far from adbl estimates.
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Frame arrives Monday.
Order was place on 22 June. Took two weeks to get shipped, XL SL. I wonder if the SL process is some dude sanding the bike down for a couple of hours...
For build, ended up going with the Sram X0 Dub crank and BB. Haven't ordered the dropper, will add that upgrade after a few rides with a standard post.
Need to get the rear wheel swapped out to boost, dished, and XD driver. (American Classic 225)..and the fork rebuilt/converted to 120mm (2012 Sid RCT3, 46 offset).
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Frame arrives Monday.
Order was place on 22 June. Took two weeks to get shipped, XL SL. I wonder if the SL process is some dude sanding the bike down for a couple of hours...
For build, ended up going with the Sram X0 Dub crank and BB. Haven't ordered the dropper, will add that upgrade after a few rides with a standard post.
Need to get the rear wheel swapped out to boost, dished, and XD driver. (American Classic 225)..and the fork rebuilt/converted to 120mm (2012 Sid RCT3, 46 offset).
I would recommend at least running the cable housing for a dropper before installing the BB. It was difficult to make that bend and get around the chain stay pivot even with access through the open BB shell.
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And my last try... using Sketchup and all zilcho's measurements(sorry I didn't see your previous picture with the bike)
(https://i.imgur.com/mEdkxXu.png)
Not that far from adbl estimates.
Interesting. Maybe the NS rear triangle has more than just visual changes, or they modified the linkage too.
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Frame arrives Monday.
Order was place on 22 June. Took two weeks to get shipped, XL SL. I wonder if the SL process is some dude sanding the bike down for a couple of hours...
For build, ended up going with the Sram X0 Dub crank and BB. Haven't ordered the dropper, will add that upgrade after a few rides with a standard post.
Need to get the rear wheel swapped out to boost, dished, and XD driver. (American Classic 225)..and the fork rebuilt/converted to 120mm (2012 Sid RCT3, 46 offset).
I would recommend at least running the cable housing for a dropper before installing the BB. It was difficult to make that bend and get around the chain stay pivot even with access through the open BB shell.
I second this suggestion. That was the hardest housing to get thru the frame for me. Can't imagine doing it with the BB installed.
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I would recommend at least running the cable housing for a dropper before installing the BB. It was difficult to make that bend and get around the chain stay pivot even with access through the open BB shell.
I second this suggestion. That was the hardest housing to get thru the frame for me. Can't imagine doing it with the BB installed.
[/quote]
Thanks for the advice, just ordered the one up, wolftooth lever, jagwire cable kit and left matchmaker.
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... I wonder if the SL process is some dude sanding the bike down for a couple of hours...
A bit more than sanding ;)
Normal : is a mix of T700 & T800
SL : is 60T and different layer permutations
Since we are 3 of us building it together all in size M, with mostly same forks/shocks/wheels.
We will test the difference: dry weight and feel/stiffness when riding.
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So far mine as been super fun and trouble-free - only 110 miles tho because of a wheel rebuild issue.
The only thing I could complain about at all up to this point is the small amount of cable noise in the frame, I really hate any noise. In hindsight I would have put those neoprene tubes over the housing in the downtube (like specialized used on the older epics), but I wasn't about to pull it all apart to make that happen. The hack I ended up doing was to cut a wedge from a pool noodle about 18" long and then pulled the fork off and shoved that down the downtube under the cables thru the headtube. So far that's done the trick on the cable noise.
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I have a hard time of trusting any of the Chiner geometry drawings. Not because they are trying to deceive or are just getting it wrong. These open mold frames go through so many iterations that the one we see posted might not be the final iteration or at least the drawing is not updated to the most current geo numbers.
Having said that, you need to at least have a starting point to begin with. Without having a frame here in front of me to measure I have no choice but to reference the drawing. If I were to assume the drawing as listed on their site is accurate at 100mm travel, then according to my calculations shock travels would be as follows:
40mm shock = 101mm travel
42.5mm shock = 105mm travel
45mm shock = 112mm travel
My calculations come from a CAD program that has been used in Motorsports for years to model suspension kinematics and is dead nuts on!
Could you model the NS frame dimensions as well? Curious how it stacks up b/c the rear triangle measurements look the same to me, just visually different.
I've modeled the NS frame. Their rear triangle is different than the 936. You can tell straight away from looking at the interface at the seatstay rocker link. The results are as follows:
37.5mm = 100mm travel
42.5mm = 112mm travel
45mm = 120mm travel
The frame has an average leverage ration of 2.66, a little higher than the 936. That accounts some for the travel differences. I feel the 936 has a more progressive ratio, should work well with this style of frame.
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Thank a lot @adbl
But how to know if 165x42.5 is still save to use?
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So far mine as been super fun and trouble-free - only 110 miles tho because of a wheel rebuild issue.
The only thing I could complain about at all up to this point is the small amount of cable noise in the frame, I really hate any noise. In hindsight I would have put those neoprene tubes over the housing in the downtube (like specialized used on the older epics), but I wasn't about to pull it all apart to make that happen. The hack I ended up doing was to cut a wedge from a pool noodle about 18" long and then pulled the fork off and shoved that down the downtube under the cables thru the headtube. So far that's done the trick on the cable noise.
I have close to 600km on mine now, and I also really like the frame aside from the linkage issues I detailed earlier in this thread (tl;dr: upper shock mount is about 0.5 mm wider than it should be. I machined custom hardware to fit, and Carbonda promised to send a new linkage but Adam hasn't been replying to my messages for a couple of weeks now)
Same with cable noise. Similar solution to yours as well as some small wedges in the cable ports on the rear triangle took care of the cable rattle.
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Thank a lot @adbl
But how to know if 165x42.5 is still save to use?
I am using 42.5mm (as are many in this thread who bought this frame) and there are no issues. There is enough clearance at full compression. Just don't use a 45mm stroke shock.
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I am using 42.5mm (as are many in this thread who bought this frame) and there are no issues. There is enough clearance at full compression.
Thanks mate
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Same with cable noise. Similar solution to yours as well as some small wedges in the cable ports on the rear triangle took care of the cable rattle.
I rode some pretty rough trails this weekend and also noticed some cable noise. I'm worried about being able to retrieve the pool noodle after installation so I'll be trying to install the slim, self adhesive plumbing insulation with the cables in the frame.
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Chain Reaction has the neoprene jackets for $3.
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/lifeline-internal-routing-anti-vibration-foam/rp-prod185571
In the US, Jagwire sells a similar product in bike shop quantities for $30.
https://www.treefortbikes.com/Jagwire-Housing-Damping-Foam-For-Internally-Routed-Frames
I bet most shops will sell you a section for a few dollars...
For my build, frame was scheduled to arrive today...shock ships Wednesday...fork was sent for rebuild and convert to 120mm today.
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Hi guys, I have to raise the rear shock questions l again.
I'm in touch with Wing from Carbonda and she said "don't use a 165x42.5 shock! The FM936 was designed for 40mm". And she had a client who jumped into a deep hole and had the rear end touching the frame, resulting in harm of the frame.
What I'm asking you guys with a 165x42.5 shock is, how much clearance do you have when there is no air in the rear shock and you use all travel? If it's just a few Millimeter, then I'm very sure that this distance might be null or even less when the flex of the frame during a jump gets added.
Maybe would be also great to know how much clearance is present when using a 165x40. Does someone have these numbers?
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Hi guys, I have to raise the rear shock questions l again.
I'm in touch with Wing from Carbonda and she said "don't use a 165x42.5 shock! The FM936 was designed for 40mm". And she had a client who jumped into a deep hole and had the rear end touching the frame, resulting in harm of the frame.
What I'm asking you guys with a 165x42.5 shock is, how much clearance do you have when there is no air in the rear shock and you use all travel? If it's just a few Millimeter, then I'm very sure that this distance might be null or even less when the flex of the frame during a jump gets added.
Maybe would be also great to know how much clearance is present when using a 165x40. Does someone have these numbers?
I had the same discussion with Adam @ Carbonda when I was talking about my linkage problem with him. He said the frame is designed for 165x40. I told him on full compression there is more than enough clearance and he said "If you tried it and there is clearance then no problem".
On full compression, there is a good 4mm of clearance of the upper seatstay brace. I took a few medium-sized drops (not the most graceful landings, either) and there's been no issues at all. I am about 76kg geared up. For the frame's intended purpose and riding style, 42.5mm stroke works absolutely fine!
Would there be an issue for heavier riders? I don't know.
Here is a picture with the shock depressurized and suspension at full compression.
(https://i.imgur.com/T9ycKIH.jpg)
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Thanks @Pharaohollie
4mm is not much. When you land on the saddle with your ass the seat tube flexes back and also the rear end has some flex to it. So these 4mm are gone in no time.
Does a shock really fully compresses with the right PSI setting. And because I won't do any big drops (lower spine disfunction) I don't think I'll have a problem here.
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Thanks @Pharaohollie
4mm is not much. When you land on the saddle with your ass the seat tube flexes back and also the rear end has some flex to it. So these 4mm are gone in no time.
Does a shock really fully compresses with the right PSI setting. And because I won't do any big drops (lower spine disfunction) I don't think I'll have a problem here.
At my weight and how I ride, this amount of clearance seems to be fine. That's why I left the caveat about heavier riders above. Also, from my understanding, the rear triangle isn't designed to flex much in this area. Most of the flex is in the seatstay/chainstay junction (speaking of this area: if you have a creak you cannot trace, check your rear brake bolts are tight!)
Also, I don't know how you ride but I never take jumps or drops and land on the saddle with my ass. In these cases, thank goodness for dropper posts :)
I am running 230psi in the shock for approximately 11mm of sag. I only bottomed out once so far and that was on a high-speed descent with a drop to flat.
That being said, I also have a 165x37.5 shock on the way to test a more XC-oriented set-up for marathon rides. It's a really fun and versatile frame.
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Same with cable noise. Similar solution to yours as well as some small wedges in the cable ports on the rear triangle took care of the cable rattle.
I rode some pretty rough trails this weekend and also noticed some cable noise. I'm worried about being able to retrieve the pool noodle after installation so I'll be trying to install the slim, self adhesive plumbing insulation with the cables in the frame.
The piece I put in is the full length of the downtube to cable port and is compressed a bit (18" I think), it will be easy to grab and pull back out thru the headtube.
On a fresh cable install I'd use the neoprene jackets (like adroitrider linked) over the individual cables instead of the pool noodle hack.
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Thanks for all the shock info. Does anyone know if it's possible to reduce the stroke on either the:
Fox Float DPS https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Performance-Float-DPS-42-5mm-x-165mm-Shock-Trunnion-3-Pos-Adjust/143042612579?epid=7026833371&hash=item214e010d63:g:rLEAAOSwRDJcCemV (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Performance-Float-DPS-42-5mm-x-165mm-Shock-Trunnion-3-Pos-Adjust/143042612579?epid=7026833371&hash=item214e010d63:g:rLEAAOSwRDJcCemV)
or the 2018 RockShox Super Deluxe RCT https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2018-RockShox-Super-Deluxe-RCT-Black-Trunnion-Rear-Air-Shock-165-x-45mm/383382375030?hash=item59435eca76:g:w~8AAOSw2FJc3xyT (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2018-RockShox-Super-Deluxe-RCT-Black-Trunnion-Rear-Air-Shock-165-x-45mm/383382375030?hash=item59435eca76:g:w~8AAOSw2FJc3xyT)
I've had a look but it all seem in conclusive.
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So I've been doing some digging.
If we look up the tune code of this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Performance-Float-DPS-42-5mm-x-165mm-Shock-Trunnion-3-Pos-Adjust/143042612579?epid=7026833371&hash=item214e010d63:g:rLEAAOSwRDJcCemV
Tune code: DDC9, we yeild thse details:
2018 Performance Series FLOAT TRUNNION, 2018, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion Evol LV, Giant, Anthem 27.5 2, 165, 42.5, 0.8 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CML, YS 2272/YS 2272 Logo
Lets go to the manual page:
https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=861 (https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=861)
Here we can see there's 3 similar shocks all with the same main parts:
Shock Size Metering Rod Shaft Compression Rod Ano Body Kashima Body
165 x 40 mm 210-84-011 229-72-011 210-24-201 204-54-231 207-50-031
165 x 42.5 mm 210-84-011 229-72-011 210-24-201 204-54-231 207-50-031
165 x 45 mm 210-84-011 229-72-011 210-24-201 204-54-231 207-50-031
So I think, the 45mm stroke has 0 travel spacers, the 42.5mm has 2.5mm spacer and the 40mm a 5mm spacer. This is then confirmed by the parts list:
Part Description
233-00-261 Spacer: Metric Travel [.360 ID X .550 OD X 5.0mm TLG] 6061, Black Ano
233-00-260 Spacer: Metric Travel [.360 ID X .550 OD X 2.5mm TLG] 6061, Black Ano2.5 mm https://www.bike24.com/p2331384.html
5 mm https://www.bike24.com/p2331384.html
Now the big question: can one easily access this?? I believe we need this drawing Assembly Drawing: 2018 FLOAT DPS P-S from the above fox website. I know it has eyelet mounts but the mount is modular so uses the same rod, damer, canister I think. Drawing: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/img/help/page861-YJLQ/Assembly-Drawing-2018-FLOAT-DPS-P-S.jpg (https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/img/help/page861-YJLQ/Assembly-Drawing-2018-FLOAT-DPS-P-S.jpg)
You can see the spacer location better on Bike24 https://cdn.bike24.net/i/mb/03/4d/bc/331447-01-d-696101.jpg (https://cdn.bike24.net/i/mb/03/4d/bc/331447-01-d-696101.jpg) . It's located at the end of 'shaft'.
Tearing down the shock https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=549 (https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=549)
I don't know if this spacer can be added without sliding it over the shaft. It's plausible that it could be modified to be a c-clip style spacer - but I don't know. If you have to remove the shaft you'll need nitrogen to reassamble (I think).
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I think considering it would seem that the travel spacers are aluminium '6061, Black Ano'. I think it's fair to use some plastic, ideally with a decent elastic modulus maybe nylon (tough) that can be cut with a very sharp knife, heated until they are a little more flexible and the slipped over the shaft. This will mean you only have to do a very trivial air can service.
This one will have to be turned down but if you don't have lathe, use a M8 bolt with 2 nuts and mount the washer between the nuts. Then put it in a drill and split it on some sand paper. Don't let it over heat.
https://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/tap-washers/0280521
https://www.mcmaster.com/90295A460-90295A160/
Alternative: https://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/collars/4490665/ Slight too large OD, Too small ID. Better because its not split but the risk is the screws come out and you've got steel screws about.
Another option is to use a 5mm spacer and score the edge to make a groove. then use a o-ring streched over from the top (narrow) end of the shock to keep the cut gap in the nylon together. You could also try thermally bonding the nylon.
Unknows: Does the temp in the aircan get above the temp limit at which nylon deforms very easily plastically? Will it get smashed up very quickly? I think it should be ok since the washer fox sells is aluminum...
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I think considering it would seem that the travel spacers are aluminium '6061, Black Ano'. I think it's fair to use some plastic, ideally with a decent elastic modulus maybe nylon (tough) that can be cut with a very sharp knife, heated until they are a little more flexible and the slipped over the shaft. This will mean you only have to do a very trivial air can service.
This one will have to be turned down but if you don't have lathe, use a M8 bolt with 2 nuts and mount the washer between the nuts. Then put it in a drill and split it on some sand paper. Don't let it over heat.
https://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/tap-washers/0280521
https://www.mcmaster.com/90295A460-90295A160/
Unknows: Does the temp in the aircan get above the temp limit at which nylon deforms very easily plastically? Will it get smashed up very quickly? I think it should be ok since the washer fox sells is aluminum...
Or 3D Print in ABS? ABS has a glass transition temperature well above nylon (105 C vs 70 C) if you're worried about heat.
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Or 3D Print in ABS? ABS has a glass transition temperature well above nylon (105 C vs 70 C) if you're worried about heat.
Interesting thanks for the suggestion. Is the abs elastic enough to deform over the shaft diameter with a 1mm slice?
If anyone need these I'm happy to manufacture them.
I made some edits to the post above too sorry.
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Or 3D Print in ABS? ABS has a glass transition temperature well above nylon (105 C vs 70 C) if you're worried about heat.
Interesting thanks for the suggestion. Is the abs elastic enough to deform over the shaft diameter with a 1mm slice?
If anyone need these I'm happy to manufacture them.
I made some edits to the post above too sorry.
ABS is more durable and flexible than PLA. Should be fine for this application. Try it and let us know!
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Would be cool if my DPS 42.5mm can be transformed to a 40mm which is more save to use.
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Would be cool if my DPS 42.5mm can be transformed to a 40mm which is more save to use.
There have been no reports of damaged frames with the 42.5mm. But, if you are 100kgs then you probably already know that not all bikes can handle the power/watts being dished out. Of note, Carbonda does not list a max weight but the Scott Spark lists 110kgs as the max...
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Yeah I'm 115kg and Carbonda Frames are save up to 125kg they say. I took the standard version to be on the safe side. Again, only using it for Gravel and easy forest paths. Need a fully for my spine issues
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Sharing build progress, right now its more like buying progress.
This is my first build, total noob with no gear. Going for a trial bike over XC, trying to be a weight weenie but on the cheaper side.
Here is an indepth look at parts I bought for the frame. Including money spent, dont know if thats taboo, just want to be transparent.
I want to share for others to use, but also I want someone to tell me if i made a mistake! Like do I need an adapter for 180mm rotors on the rear?
Before this I had alan keys and a pump. So I dont have/ordered tools to cut the headtube or work with the BB, or grease. Could use some recommendations.
Hope you appreciate some of the detail I put into to this.
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Hi guys, I have to raise the rear shock questions l again.
I'm in touch with Wing from Carbonda and she said "don't use a 165x42.5 shock! The FM936 was designed for 40mm". And she had a client who jumped into a deep hole and had the rear end touching the frame, resulting in harm of the frame.
What I'm asking you guys with a 165x42.5 shock is, how much clearance do you have when there is no air in the rear shock and you use all travel? If it's just a few Millimeter, then I'm very sure that this distance might be null or even less when the flex of the frame during a jump gets added.
Maybe would be also great to know how much clearance is present when using a 165x40. Does someone have these numbers?
Did wing say that the rear shock was 165x42.5 on the bike that was damaged? Sounds like she was just to use factory spec, which is the safe side of things. I think 4mm space is enough, but I bet it varies frame to frame.
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Hi guys, I have to raise the rear shock questions l again.
I'm in touch with Wing from Carbonda and she said "don't use a 165x42.5 shock! The FM936 was designed for 40mm". And she had a client who jumped into a deep hole and had the rear end touching the frame, resulting in harm of the frame.
What I'm asking you guys with a 165x42.5 shock is, how much clearance do you have when there is no air in the rear shock and you use all travel? If it's just a few Millimeter, then I'm very sure that this distance might be null or even less when the flex of the frame during a jump gets added.
Maybe would be also great to know how much clearance is present when using a 165x40. Does someone have these numbers?
Did wing say that the rear shock was 165x42.5 on the bike that was damaged? Sounds like she was just to use factory spec, which is the safe side of things. I think 4mm space is enough, but I bet it varies frame to frame.
Yes she did mention it was 165x42.5mm
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Sharing build progress, right now its more like buying progress.
This is my first build, total noob with no gear. Going for a trial bike over XC, trying to be a weight weenie but on the cheaper side.
Here is an indepth look at parts I bought for the frame. Including money spent, dont know if thats taboo, just want to be transparent.
I want to share for others to use, but also I want someone to tell me if i made a mistake! Like do I need an adapter for 180mm rotors on the rear?
Before this I had alan keys and a pump. So I dont have/ordered tools to cut the headtube or work with the BB, or grease. Could use some recommendations.
Hope you appreciate some of the detail I put into to this.
Really nice work man! I also did such a list and will share it ones I have all my parts. I also included a column "where bought", so people from the same country might benefit from it.
Go for a bike tool box for starters. Something like this:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dXbpm2n
You can also find something like that in a local online shop. Starting from that you need a handful of other things like a steerer cutter (15€ tube cutter from your local hardware store for tubes up to 30mm, if you have aluminum steerer), bleeding kit (10€), pressfit tool (20€) and maybe a few other things
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Yes she did mention it was 165x42.5mm
Maybe buying that shock was a mistake... lol, although I could really see how landing in a ditch would squeeze the bike lengthwise
Really nice work man! I also did such a list and will share it ones I have all my parts. I also included a column "where bought", so people from the same country might benefit from it.
Go for a bike tool box for starters. Something like this:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dXbpm2n
You can also find something like that in a local online shop. Starting from that you need a handful of other things like a steerer cutter (15€ tube cutter from your local hardware store for tubes up to 30mm, if you have aluminum steerer), bleeding kit (10€), pressfit tool (20€) and maybe a few other things
Thanks and thank you for the advice! I will look out for your list, I still dont have all my parts but they are all on the way.
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Oh yeah, I was just riding along (trying to race an E-bike) and the frame failed (after riding straight into a tree at 20mph) because the shock stroke was too long.
Classic, JRA...
;)
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Oh yeah, I was just riding along (trying to race an E-bike) and the frame failed (after riding straight into a tree at 20mph) because the shock stroke was too long.
Classic, JRA...
;)
Really? Or ;) ?
If the rear end really touches your seat tube, then it's maximum a crack, but won't fail immediately I think.
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Not really what I wanted to read, with my 42.5mm shock waiting for the frame :-\
But being at around 67kg, and not particularly a jumper I guess it will be ok.
I'll put a gummy tape on the seat tube in any case, to soften any impact from the seatstays bridge.
NS Bike designed a rear triangle maybe just to offer a 120mm version.
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Oh yeah, I was just riding along (trying to race an E-bike) and the frame failed (after riding straight into a tree at 20mph) because the shock stroke was too long.
Classic, JRA...
;)
Really? Or ;) ?
If the rear end really touches your seat tube, then it's maximum a crack, but won't fail immediately I think.
I was just kidding around. The only post in this thread with frame damage is with the 45mm stroke...and that was minimal.
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Not really what I wanted to read, with my 42.5mm shock waiting for the frame :-\
But being at around 67kg, and not particularly a jumper I guess it will be ok.
I'll put a gummy tape on the seat tube in any case, to soften any impact from the seatstays bridge.
If you're worried I'll send you a spacer to insert into the shock, free. only need to unscrew the aircan its a 15 min job... :)
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Not really what I wanted to read, with my 42.5mm shock waiting for the frame :-\
But being at around 67kg, and not particularly a jumper I guess it will be ok.
I'll put a gummy tape on the seat tube in any case, to soften any impact from the seatstays bridge.
If you're worried I'll send you a spacer to insert into the shock, free. only need to unscrew the aircan its a 15 min job... :)
Ist it that simple? Is there a tutorial on YT?
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Not really what I wanted to read, with my 42.5mm shock waiting for the frame :-\
But being at around 67kg, and not particularly a jumper I guess it will be ok.
I'll put a gummy tape on the seat tube in any case, to soften any impact from the seatstays bridge.
If you're worried I'll send you a spacer to insert into the shock, free. only need to unscrew the aircan its a 15 min job... :)
I would love to take you up on that, what size spacer? Maybe its possible to have just a 1mm spacer so travel is still a little higher than 100mm?
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Not really what I wanted to read, with my 42.5mm shock waiting for the frame :-\
But being at around 67kg, and not particularly a jumper I guess it will be ok.
I'll put a gummy tape on the seat tube in any case, to soften any impact from the seatstays bridge.
If you're worried I'll send you a spacer to insert into the shock, free. only need to unscrew the aircan its a 15 min job... :)
Ist it that simple? Is there a tutorial on YT?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DnCezNqljRA You only need to do up to the 1:35 mark, insert the spacer and screw the can back on.
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Not really what I wanted to read, with my 42.5mm shock waiting for the frame :-\
But being at around 67kg, and not particularly a jumper I guess it will be ok.
I'll put a gummy tape on the seat tube in any case, to soften any impact from the seatstays bridge.
If you're worried I'll send you a spacer to insert into the shock, free. only need to unscrew the aircan its a 15 min job... :)
I would love to take you up on that, what size spacer? Maybe its possible to have just a 1mm spacer so travel is still a little higher than 100mm?
Potentially, I still need to work out how a 1mm nylon washer will behave in the shock. Probaly will make it 1.50-2.00 mm to account for the 'squish' factor of nylon when a full bottom out occurs. I've not actually got my shock yet so this is all a bit theoretical. If you want me to tell you what parts you'd need then I can try.
Edit:
This could be easily solved with that 3euro https://www.bike24.com/p2331384.html part but you've got to disassemble the entire damned shock and put back in the pressurised nitrogen... Hence, the spacer has be something that can be slipped over. Not to mention, being able to change the shock by 2.5 mm is super useful for racing or riding difference conditions.
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Not really what I wanted to read, with my 42.5mm shock waiting for the frame :-\
But being at around 67kg, and not particularly a jumper I guess it will be ok.
I'll put a gummy tape on the seat tube in any case, to soften any impact from the seatstays bridge.
If you're worried I'll send you a spacer to insert into the shock, free. only need to unscrew the aircan its a 15 min job... :)
I would love to take you up on that, what size spacer? Maybe its possible to have just a 1mm spacer so travel is still a little higher than 100mm?
Potentially, I still need to work out how a 1mm nylon washer will behave in the shock. Probaly will make it 1.50-2.00 mm to account for the 'squish' factor of nylon when a full bottom out occurs. I've not actually got my shock yet so this is all a bit theoretical. If you want me to tell you what parts you'd need then I can try.
Edit:
This could be easily solved with that 3euro https://www.bike24.com/p2331384.html part but you've got to disassemble the entire damned shock and put back in the pressurised nitrogen... Hence, the spacer has be something that can be slipped over. Not to mention, being able to change the shock by 2.5 mm is super useful for racing or riding difference conditions.
So it's not that easy like in the video?
Then I have to live with it for now and see where I end up with 42.5
I keep my eyes open for a 165x40 and might sell the other one. But not for now. Now I'll wait for the frame and will test it first.
A side question. I never had a fully nor a rear shock. Is it normal that I can't compress the shock with my weight, pushing it to the floor and bending over it with my torso? Unbelievable stiff. If that's normal, the forces which the frame must withstand are enormous.
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So it's not that easy like in the video?
Then I have to live with it for now and see where I end up with 42.5
If I can get a nylon washer to work, the only steps needed would be as the video describes up to 1:3, the slip the washer on, and screw it back up.
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So it's not that easy like in the video?
Then I have to live with it for now and see where I end up with 42.5
If I can get a nylon washer to work, the only steps needed would be as the video describes up to 1:3, the slip the washer on, and screw it back up.
Please try and let us know what to do. Finding a 165x40 for 100€ should be very difficult so I want to keep mine.
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I already have my 42.5 in hand. I asked Adam if anyone had damaged the frame using that size shock.
He says "our suspension frame is design for 165x40mm rear shock. If use a 165x42.5 shock ,the rear upper seatstay may touch the seatpost." with may in bold like that.
My current plan of attack is to wait until I have the frame, put the shock on fully depressed and see what size my gap is. If its good, I will put some mastic tape on to dampen impacts.
Otherwise:
I will order the 5mm spacer and pay my capable local shop for a partial rebuild (I will give them an open air sleeve shock and handle the air sleeve maintaince). 130 USD
They would not agree to let me use the nitrogen fill pump as its a liability to have a novice assemle the piston/shaft and could explode as the it takes 600psi in there.
Also, does anyone know for sure that the rear brake mount is a post mount?
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A side question. I never had a fully nor a rear shock. Is it normal that I can't compress the shock with my weight, pushing it to the floor and bending over it with my torso? It's not in the frame yet. Just having the shock in my hands and trying to compress it. Unbelievable stiff. If that's normal, the forces which the frame must withstand are enormous.
Sure, 200 PSI is a lot, but compressing my Lefty fork with 180PSI is easy peasy. Don't know if I got a faulty rear shock.
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Not really what I wanted to read, with my 42.5mm shock waiting for the frame :-\
But being at around 67kg, and not particularly a jumper I guess it will be ok.
I'll put a gummy tape on the seat tube in any case, to soften any impact from the seatstays bridge.
If you're worried I'll send you a spacer to insert into the shock, free. only need to unscrew the aircan its a 15 min job... :)
I would love to take you up on that, what size spacer? Maybe its possible to have just a 1mm spacer so travel is still a little higher than 100mm?
Potentially, I still need to work out how a 1mm nylon washer will behave in the shock. Probaly will make it 1.50-2.00 mm to account for the 'squish' factor of nylon when a full bottom out occurs. I've not actually got my shock yet so this is all a bit theoretical. If you want me to tell you what parts you'd need then I can try.
Edit:
This could be easily solved with that 3euro https://www.bike24.com/p2331384.html part but you've got to disassemble the entire damned shock and put back in the pressurised nitrogen... Hence, the spacer has be something that can be slipped over. Not to mention, being able to change the shock by 2.5 mm is super useful for racing or riding difference conditions.
So it's not that easy like in the video?
Then I have to live with it for now and see where I end up with 42.5
I keep my eyes open for a 165x40 and might sell the other one. But not for now. Now I'll wait for the frame and will test it first.
A side question. I never had a fully nor a rear shock. Is it normal that I can't compress the shock with my weight, pushing it to the floor and bending over it with my torso? Unbelievable stiff. If that's normal, the forces which the frame must withstand are enormous.
Somehow my previous attempt to reply to this just quoted everything but my reply didn't post so I deleted it.
Unscrewing the air can and adding a spacer just changes the volume inside the air can so it just changes the compression curve. To change stroke length you need to do a full rebuild. I had asked both Fox and my local Fox certified shock service place and they both said the same thing. I've also read the same thing posted on another forum that if you want to change stroke length you need to do a full rebuild. So buying a cheap blown shock and paying $200 for a rebuild with stroke shortening at the same time is probably most cost effective.
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Somehow my previous attempt to reply to this just quoted everything but my reply didn't post so I deleted it.
Unscrewing the air can and adding a spacer just changes the volume inside the air can so it just changes the compression curve. To change stroke length you need to do a full rebuild. I had asked both Fox and my local Fox certified shock service place and they both said the same thing. I've also read the same thing posted on another forum that if you want to change stroke length you need to do a full rebuild. So buying a cheap blown shock and paying $200 for a rebuild with stroke shortening at the same time is probably most cost effective.
Thanks for the info! I don't think I agree sorry, the engineering drawing suggest the small ring https://www.bike24.com/p2331384.html , simply slips over the shaft. The volume is 876 mm^3. Fox's smalled volume spacer is 3277mm^3 https://www.bike24.com/p2272994.html?q=dps%20volume (https://www.bike24.com/p2272994.html?q=dps%20volume) . That's 3.7x larger. If you could make a nylon spacer to a similar siez, and slip it over the shaft you don't need the aluminium one fox sells which, you are correct, does require a rebuild. I will try it when I have the shock and will report back!
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Somehow my previous attempt to reply to this just quoted everything but my reply didn't post so I deleted it.
Unscrewing the air can and adding a spacer just changes the volume inside the air can so it just changes the compression curve. To change stroke length you need to do a full rebuild. I had asked both Fox and my local Fox certified shock service place and they both said the same thing. I've also read the same thing posted on another forum that if you want to change stroke length you need to do a full rebuild. So buying a cheap blown shock and paying $200 for a rebuild with stroke shortening at the same time is probably most cost effective.
Thanks for the info! I don't think I agree sorry, the engineering drawing suggest the small ring https://www.bike24.com/p2331384.html , simply slips over the shaft. The volume is 876 mm^3. Fox's smalled volume spacer is 3277mm^3 https://www.bike24.com/p2272994.html?q=dps%20volume (https://www.bike24.com/p2272994.html?q=dps%20volume) . That's 3.7x larger. If you could make a nylon spacer to a similar siez, and slip it over the shaft you don't need the aluminium one fox sells which, you are correct, does require a rebuild. I will try it when I have the shock and will report back!
I just opened mine up, the volume spacer is probably not nylon. The alu spacer sits flush between the shaft and the volume spacer. The volum spacer is 0.2in thick where the washer sits flush and much thicker everywhere else. If you made that 0.2 area thicker, It would limit stroke and the washer would sit higher.
I think we may want to look into longboard bushings, they seem to be a similar material and we could choose the hardness. Venom makes great longboard bushings.
Edit: also longboard kingpins are 9.525mm diameter, so it would require minimal cutting
Edit #2: then put the orignal volume space over the custom cut longboard bushing, maybe upside down, to trap it
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Hi guys, I have to raise the rear shock questions l again.
I'm in touch with Wing from Carbonda and she said "don't use a 165x42.5 shock! The FM936 was designed for 40mm". And she had a client who jumped into a deep hole and had the rear end touching the frame, resulting in harm of the frame.
What I'm asking you guys with a 165x42.5 shock is, how much clearance do you have when there is no air in the rear shock and you use all travel? If it's just a few Millimeter, then I'm very sure that this distance might be null or even less when the flex of the frame during a jump gets added.
Maybe would be also great to know how much clearance is present when using a 165x40. Does someone have these numbers?
Did wing say that the rear shock was 165x42.5 on the bike that was damaged? Sounds like she was just to use factory spec, which is the safe side of things. I think 4mm space is enough, but I bet it varies frame to frame.
Yes she did mention it was 165x42.5mm
I asked Adam if he knew of any customers damaging the frame with a 42.5 stroke.
He said:
No customer damadges frame so far with 42.5mm stroke shock.But we are still not recommend to use that 42.5mm rear shock.
Also it's post mount rear brake
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Anyone riding the frame with 160mm rear disc and no adapter on PM caliper, how long the M6 bolts can/must be? Looking to get Ti bolts
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He said:
No customer damadges frame so far with 42.5mm stroke shock.But we are still not recommend to use that 42.5mm rear shock.
Also it's post mount rear brake
My assumption is they get their reports from this thread. This thread is the single best source of failures and issues for this frame.
Issues are:
1. Potential out of spec spacing on the rocker (one frame)
2. Hardware is not greased (all frames)
3. Frame is not shipped with anti rattle devices (all frames)
4. Finish quality isn't a Trek or Specialized, there will be blemishes on your frame (nearly all frames)
5. Geometry posted is likely not quite accurate (all frames)
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Riding a 42.5 shock I can tell you the chance of having isseus is minimal. Rode a bikepark!! with this bike without problems. Even cleared a jump of several meters!
Did also some enduro tracks in the Dolomites(Italien Alps) as xc biking there and it was great. Better than last years biking with a canyon nerve; better going up and way better going down.
My2c
Pics
(https://i.ibb.co/FDWYNf4/IMG-20200715-104602.jpg) (https://ibb.co/XC45Ndx)
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Thanks @Medico
Still missing the like function on this forum
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5. Geometry posted is likely not quite accurate (all frames)
What do you mean, as far as i checked, dimensions are right.
Do you have more precise informations if all frames are concerned?
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Hi, this is my first post here, I have followed and read the entire post, and I have finally received my FM 936 frame this week.
Concerning the shock stroke question, I have measure a length around 122 or 123 mm eye to eye for full compression (when there is contact with the seatube). So it corresponds exactly to a 42.5 mm stroke. Thus, it does not sound very safe to use such a stroke, since in case of bottom out with some mud on the seat tube or frame deformation it will hit the seat tube.
I have also measured the actual travel, it is indeed around 100 mm (vertical) for 40 mm stroke.
Moreover, frame weight in size L, normal layup is 2.095 kg including rear axle.
Finish quality is very, very good. Geometry seems accurate, in particular I have measured the front center around 800 mm which is what I am looking for. The seat tube is indeed very steep, I was hoping that the actual angle for my saddle height (800 mm on top of saddle) would allow me to use a normal seatpost, but I think I will need a setback seatpost (I like to have the nose of the saddle around 8 cm behind the BB).
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Oh no, I was hoping not to hear something like that. I'll measure it myself also when my frame arrives. Maybe it differs from size to size. In my opinion even 2.5mm of shock stroke length until the rear end touches the seat tube, is pretty small design wise.
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Read this topic...please.... There are several people (incl me) riding the bike in size medium and large with a 42.5 shock without any problems.
And mudproblems? ??? It's not a tyre clearence problem.
But I dont think there will be much difference between 100mm travel and 105/110mm...so pick a shock pricewise.
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Thanks @Medico
Still missing the like function on this forum
I'll look into adding it. Thanks.
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Thanks @Medico
Still missing the like function on this forum
I'll look into adding it. Thanks.
Added. Thanks for the input.
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Thanks @Medico
Still missing the like function on this forum
I'll look into adding it. Thanks.
Added. Thanks for the input.
You're the MAN! Much appreciation! So let's tell everyone via a news thread!
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Payment sent! Size Large with purple glitter paint -
- Full XT 12 speed
- BTLOS Carbon rims with m8100 hubs (still trying to get this sorted) https://btlos.com/mountain-bike/asymmetric-all-mountain-enduro-carbon-fiber-mtb-wheelset-tubeless-compatible
- Flat bars, 60mm stem, foam grips. - ebay/sales
- Sid select 120mm 44mm offset with lockout
- The cheap fox shock from ebay.
Hopefully I'll get to race it before the season is over.
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Payment sent! Size Large with purple glitter paint -
- Full XT 12 speed
- BTLOS Carbon rims with m8100 hubs (still trying to get this sorted) https://btlos.com/mountain-bike/asymmetric-all-mountain-enduro-carbon-fiber-mtb-wheelset-tubeless-compatible
- Flat bars, 60mm stem, foam grips. - ebay/sales
- Sid select 120mm 44mm offset with lockout
- The cheap fox shock from ebay.
Hopefully I'll get to race it before the season is over.
Nice! Finally a non-black frame!
The BTLOS wheelset looks great. Good price for what it offers. Also weight ist nice! Why do you want M8100 hubs over DT350? I'd always go with DT. And when there is some money left, take 54T ratchet. Ones had the 240s but not worth the higher pricing. I can live with 40g more in the wheelset but save 200$.
What does BTLOS charge for no-tax-shipping?
I'll go for 100mm in the front because I won't do a lot of jumps or heavy XC in it.
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Nice! Finally a non-black frame!
The BTLOS wheelset looks great. Good price for what it offers. Also weight ist nice! Why do you want M8100 hubs over DT350? I'd always go with DT. And when there is some money left, take 54T ratchet. Ones had the 240s but not worth the higher pricing. I can live with 40g more in the wheelset but save 200$.
What does BTLOS charge for no-tax-shipping?
Thanks. Standard shipping is free (seems so i think) and they write 'sample' and a low value so even if you do get charged VAT then it's not much. I wanted the m8100 because of the silent hub, plus they're actually cheaper than DT swiss whilst having a similar weight.
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I just give fact: on my frame, with a 42.5 or may be 43.5 or 41.5 if my measurement is not correct, the brace between the seat stays hit the seat tube (you misunderstood my post, I never talked about tire, but possible things between the brace and the seat tube, like mud).
It depends on the shock/frame/pressure/riding style if there is a risk or not. If not, fine, may be the suspension kinematics is progressive enough that it is not possible to bottom out.
FYI, I will use a non trunnion shock with 38 stroke, because I have it, and I do not like this trunnion mount style (am I the only one thinking that an aluminum bolt should play the role of the axle?).
Read this topic...please.... There are several people (incl me) riding the bike in size medium and large with a 42.5 shock without any problems.
And mudproblems? ??? It's not a tyre clearence problem.
But I dont think there will be much difference between 100mm travel and 105/110mm...so pick a shock pricewise.
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I just give fact: on my frame, with a 42.5 or may be 43.5 or 41.5 if my measurement is not correct, the brace between the seat stays hit the seat tube (you misunderstood my post, I never talked about tire, but possible things between the brace and the seat tube, like mud).
It depends on the shock/frame/pression/riding style if there is a risk or not. If not, fine, may be the suspension kinematics is progressive enough that it is not possible to bottom out.
FYI, I will use a non trunnion shock with 38 stroke, because I have it, and I do not like this trunnion mount style (am I the only one thinking that an aluminum bolt should play the role of the axle?).
Read this topic...please.... There are several people (incl me) riding the bike in size medium and large with a 42.5 shock without any problems.
And mudproblems? ??? It's not a tyre clearence problem.
But I dont think there will be much difference between 100mm travel and 105/110mm...so pick a shock pricewise.
Thanks again. I'll definitely measure everything when my frame arrives.
How to use a non-trunnion-mount?
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I am machining an axle, similar to this one : https://service.dirtlabs.com/product/trunnion-mount-adapter-kit/
Thanks again. I'll definitely measure everything when my frame arrives.
How to use a non-trunnion-mount?
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I am machining an axle, similar to this one : https://service.dirtlabs.com/product/trunnion-mount-adapter-kit/
Thanks again. I'll definitely measure everything when my frame arrives.
How to use a non-trunnion-mount?
Ah ok, that's nice. Let us know how it works. We might need your abilities in the future here. Would increase the number of options for shocks a lot.
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@ all who are running this frame in XL:
I'm using a 60mm stem and 740mm flatbar. Will the 1700mm brake hose be enough in length? Or better getting the 2000mm one?
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@ all who are running this frame in XL:
I'm using a 60mm stem and 740mm flatbar. Will the 1700mm brake hose be enough in length? Or better getting the 2000mm one?
Size L frame, 60mm stem, 780mm bars, 1700mm rear hose, lots of slack. I was in a hurry to get the bike running and didn't cut anything, could probably trim 100-150mm easy
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@ all who are running this frame in XL:
I'm using a 60mm stem and 740mm flatbar. Will the 1700mm brake hose be enough in length? Or better getting the 2000mm one?
Size L frame, 60mm stem, 780mm bars, 1700mm rear hose, lots of slack. I was in a hurry to get the bike running and didn't cut anything, could probably trim 100-150mm easy
Thanks man!
@all
Are you running full housing inside the FM936 frame for rear derailleur?
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@ all who are running this frame in XL:
I'm using a 60mm stem and 740mm flatbar. Will the 1700mm brake hose be enough in length? Or better getting the 2000mm one?
Size L frame, 60mm stem, 780mm bars, 1700mm rear hose, lots of slack. I was in a hurry to get the bike running and didn't cut anything, could probably trim 100-150mm easy
Thanks man!
@all
Are you running full housing inside the FM936 frame for rear derailleur?
You have to run full housing for rear der, brake & dropper.
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Yep
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To give the end of the story : 38 mm imperial style shock mounted thanks to a 12.7x55 mm titanium axle threaded at both ends to M10x1.0, gives, fully compressed, 10 mm of clearance between seat stay brace and seat tube.
Remember the ratio of about 2.5 when considering a shock stroke... 42.5 defenetively means that you believe in never bottoming out the shock (at least on my L size frame).
I will let you know in 2-3 weeks how it rides with such old shock (Fox rp23).
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I've been riding a 42.5 mm stroke shock on my size L frame since March. Plenty of clearance with the shock bottomed out, never had any contact between the seat stay brace and seat tube. Not even any semblance of worry that it might happen, because it won't.
And yes, I have bottomed. I jump the thing, come off drops, ride it like a MTB should be ridden, not just on some lame gravel trails.
I ride cross country trails, flow trails, trails with natural technical rocks, roots, drops, jumps terrain, sanitized bike park trails with manufactured jumps and drops. I'll take the natural terrain trails all day every day over manufactured bike park stuff.
And I'm 225 lbs.
But sure, you guys keep on going on about your hypotheticals. In the real world, the 42.5 mm stroke works beautifully with the frame.
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I've been riding a 42.5 mm stroke shock on my size L frame since March. Plenty of clearance with the shock bottomed out, never had any contact between the seat stay brace and seat tube. Not even any semblance of worry that it might happen, because it won't.
And yes, I have bottomed. I jump the thing, come off drops, ride it like a MTB should be ridden, not just on some lame gravel trails. Cross country trails, flow trails, trails with natural technical rocks, roots, drops, jumps terrain, sanitized bike park trails with manufactured jumps and drops. I'll take the natural terrain trails all day every day over manufactured bike park stuff.
And I'm 225 lbs.
But sure, you guys keep on going on about your hypotheticals. In the real world, the 42.5 mm stroke works beautifully with the frame.
Same here. While I don't have a ton of mileage on the bike yet I've been riding this bike hard with a 42.5mm shock. Natural, non-groomed terrain. I took a good size drop on my ride this morning and there is not a hint of contact between the seat stay brace and the seat tube.
There are several people in this long thread using 42.5 with zero issues. If someone is actually having seat stay brace and seat tube contact at bottom out with this size shock then that's an anomaly.
Still, official spec from Carbonda DOES list 165x40mm.
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I've been riding a 42.5 mm stroke shock on my size L frame since March. Plenty of clearance with the shock bottomed out, never had any contact between the seat stay brace and seat tube. Not even any semblance of worry that it might happen, because it won't.
And yes, I have bottomed. I jump the thing, come off drops, ride it like a MTB should be ridden, not just on some lame gravel trails. Cross country trails, flow trails, trails with natural technical rocks, roots, drops, jumps terrain, sanitized bike park trails with manufactured jumps and drops. I'll take the natural terrain trails all day every day over manufactured bike park stuff.
And I'm 225 lbs.
But sure, you guys keep on going on about your hypotheticals. In the real world, the 42.5 mm stroke works beautifully with the frame.
Just like a said earlier...lot of hypothetical shit...in real world zero issues after riding endoro en even a bike park with big jumps and botteming out!
This bike gives lots of convidence 8)
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Just like a said earlier...lot of hypothetical shit...in real world zero issues after riding endoro en even a bike park with big jumps and botteming out!
This bike gives lots of convidence 8)
Good to hear dude! I was hitting this on a old 27.5+ bike, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3vlyxlu834 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j3vlyxlu834) (skip to 2:15) exactly, and almost worried that I'd made a mistake with this the 120, rather than 130. Reading this coment and more I feel a bit more comforted. Also, I prefer pedaling up the hills more than going down!
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Wow, watching that all I could think was why in the world is it covered in road base gravel, that makes any corner super sketchy. Then the guy crashed.
Maybe it's there for erosion control, don't know. But no way I would want to ride that.
I just rode the boulderdash to lava flow trail last weekend on my carbonda with 42.5 mm shock. No issues.
https://youtu.be/9T7YyxmhGHE (https://youtu.be/9T7YyxmhGHE)
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Wow, watching that all I could think was why in the world is it covered in road base gravel, that makes any corner super sketchy. Then the guy crashed.
Maybe it's there for erosion control, don't know. But no way I would want to ride that.
I just rode the boulderdash to lava flow trail last weekend on my carbonda with 42.5 mm shock. No issues.
https://youtu.be/9T7YyxmhGHE (https://youtu.be/9T7YyxmhGHE)
Would you be so kind and post some pics of your build?!
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Sure. It looks pretty much like all the others in the thread, but here it is:
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Sure. It looks pretty much like all the others in the thread, but here it is:
Very nice build.
Nice fork also
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Yeah, the Sapphire is quite a bit heavier than the Fox 34 SC, but it is such a night and day better fork that the weight penalty doesn't matter to me.
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Yeah, the Sapphire is quite a bit heavier than the Fox 34 SC, but it is such a night and day better fork that the weight penalty doesn't matter to me.
Totally agree...got the same one ;D
Only downside of dvo is the poor support in Europe, hardly any suplier has got spare/service parts
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Sure. It looks pretty much like all the others in the thread, but here it is:
Thanks a lot. Wanted to see the paint job. Done by carbonda?
What does the decal say on the downtube?
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Sure. It looks pretty much like all the others in the thread, but here it is:
Nice looking bike! Maybe you already posted the build details in this thread, but can I ask which crank/oval chainring setup you're running? My 34T Absolute Black oval with Shimano M8000 non-boost crank doesn't clear the chainstay.
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The color on my bike was done by me, it's all vinyl. I wanted to try wrapping the bike instead of paint. I don't know that I would do it again, it shows wear more and to replace is a bit difficult. I'll just paint next time.
The decal on the downtube is basically an old nickname of mine, it's fun to get confused looks from people asking about a brand they've never heard of.
Crankset is the Shimano MT-900 with an AB oval 32 tooth ring. Rest of the drivetrain is 8100 XT and Magura MT5 brakes.
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The color on my bike was done by me, it's all vinyl. I wanted to try wrapping the bike instead of paint. I don't know that I would do it again, it shows wear more and to replace is a bit difficult. I'll just paint next time.
The decal on the downtube is basically an old nickname of mine, it's fun to get confused looks from people asking about a brand they've never heard of.
Crankset is the Shimano MT-900 with an AB oval 32 tooth ring. Rest of the drivetrain is 8100 XT and Magura MT5 brakes.
Brex- what vinyl did you use? I'm looking to do 3m 2080 on the headtube and toptube. I was going to do a gloss finish. If it wears quick I might do a clear vinyl over the top that I can replace. Feel free to send me a private message with any tips or tricks
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It is 3M 2080, the gloss blue metallic. I also did use 3M VViVid clear vinyl over the top in certain spots - downtube, outsides of rear triangle, back side of seat tube, etc.
I washed the frame with soap and water, then went over the areas the film was to be applied with rubbing alcohol. The problem areas have been on the top of the top tube where the headset cover sits, all that twisting motion has bubbled/bunched it up and it looks like garbage, so if you cover the top tube cut it short of the headset area. Also the inside of the rear triangle. Whether it is the constant dynamic forces or the constant abuse from dirt/rocks/mud/water, etc., it just isn't handling it well. It is peeling back in spots and just looks like crap up close. It's also not strong at all, a few little scrapes in the vinyl along the top tube, even from leaning it against a tree.
So, either cover it all with the thicker clear stuff that is made to handle abuse, or just paint it and then cover the paint. Replacing the colored vinyl will mean I have to peel off the clear stuff in the areas where it covers the color and then peel off the color. Not worth it unless I am ready to just do it all over again.
It looked really nice at first, but started showing wear pretty quick, and here we are ~4.5 months from completing the bike and it doesn't look good at all up close. Live and learn.
Everything covered in the VViVid still looks really nice. But that stuff is made for abuse.
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Yeah, also learned that wrapping a frame is pretty temporary.
Other topic.
Anybody knows around which fork offset the FM936 was designed? 44/51/xx?
I want to run a 44 SID on it and I don't want to ruin the geometry and the designers intention.
Learned that putting a 44mm fork on 51mm designed frames of certain bikes makes you feel going over the bar the whole time.
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Fork offset is a sutble difference and these types are more than likely not designed around a single offset. Its more about preference.
I went with a 44mm offset SID fork (build still in progress, so i cant tell you how it rides) and i can see that falls in line with brand name manufacutures. Specialized and Cannondale also spec similar bikes with 44mm.
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Learned that putting a 44mm fork on 51mm designed frames of certain bikes makes you feel going over the bar the whole time.
It's probably true with a 71/70° head angle and short wheelbase bikes not with fm936 geometry.
As said by Zdrenka89 it depends of your preference.
Basically short offset gives more stable direction at high speed while long offset gives more manoeuvrable bikes at slow speed for tight corners.
With the fm936 i'll go with short offset to suit the DNA of the bike, if you mainly ride around trees at 5 or 10 mph it's not the ideal geometry anyway ;)
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Yeah I'm going for the 44mm offset SID select too. Also, pretty cool feature with the SID is to change from 100 to 120 or visa versa it seems you only need a 40euro air shaft change.
I shipped with DHL, do you know if Carbonda will update me with the tracking number once they ship it? Thanks :)
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Yeah I'm going for the 44mm offset SID select too. Also, pretty cool feature with the SID is to change from 100 to 120 or visa versa it seems you only need a 40euro air shaft change.
I shipped with DHL, do you know if Carbonda will update me with the tracking number once they ship it? Thanks :)
Yes. They always provide the tracking number.
So you can frenetically follow it, instead of boring them every two days ;)
A 120 fork could be reduced to 100 too?
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Thanks guys, much appreciated! Glad I'm good with 44!
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Yeah I'm going for the 44mm offset SID select too. Also, pretty cool feature with the SID is to change from 100 to 120 or visa versa it seems you only need a 40euro air shaft change.
I shipped with DHL, do you know if Carbonda will update me with the tracking number once they ship it? Thanks :)
Yes. They always provide the tracking number.
So you can frenetically follow it, instead of boring them every two days ;)
A 120 fork could be reduced to 100 too?
Haha, I didn't message them at all - didn't see the point. Just payment!
I think so, just an air shaft change. It's certainly a good option because the 100mm fork is often much cheaper so you could get a new shaft and still be cheaper than the 120...
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If you're looking for a bargain handelbar for you build, you might want to consider this one:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2964.msg22395.html#msg22395
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If you're looking for a bargain handelbar for you build, you might want to consider this one:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2964.msg22395.html#msg22395
Good to know!
I'll go that route too, once I'm sure of the stem length I need.
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You guys are going to convince me to spend a lot of money here...
I'm looking to build a bike to compliment my Chiner carbon ultralight XC hardtail I built using this site in 2014. This looks like an interesting option. I want something that climbs really well, but can handle the downhills better. This lightweight hardtail is slowly killing me... ;)
I worry about the very non-traditional geometry on this frame. Its a stark departure from my current frame (CS-218) and even more radical than the new Specialized Epic-EVO. Geometry comparison below (used NS data since the frames are very similar/identical)
Given I ride a LARGE CS-218, should I consider a MED. or LAR. FM936? That reach on the FM936 really worries me...
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If I do go through with this build, I would like to go ultralight (were it makes sense to do so from a cost/robustness standpoint). Here is my initial thoughts on a built list. Any feedback is appreciated. (attached)
(I know the BB is wrong, that's a carry over from my current ride)
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You guys are going to convince me to spend a lot of money here...
I'm looking to build a bike to compliment my Chiner carbon ultralight XC hardtail I built using this site in 2014. This looks like an interesting option. I want something that climbs really well, but can handle the downhills better. This lightweight hardtail is slowly killing me... ;)
I worry about the very non-traditional geometry on this frame. Its a stark departure from my current frame (CS-218) and even more radical than the new Specialized Epic-EVO. Geometry comparison below (used NS data since the frames are very similar/identical)
Given I ride a LARGE CS-218, should I consider a MED. or LAR. FM936? That reach on the FM936 really worries me...
I learned here from David Arthur that you should get your normal size. The frame is for short stems only. The reach seems long, but as the seat angle is very steep you won't have such a long reach in real life. Just check eff. top tube. Also Carbonda recommends a seatpost without setback on this frame.
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If I do go through with this build, I would like to go ultralight (were it makes sense to do so from a cost/robustness standpoint). Here is my initial thoughts on a built list. Any feedback is appreciated. (attached)
(I know the BB is wrong, that's a carry over from my current ride)
Wow, that looks pretty decent! And you'll end up very light. Would love to see the cost breakdown besides the weight.
Don't see much possibility to shave off weight when you want to go 120mm travel. Maybe lighter brakes. Why not get SRAM XX?
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Wow, that looks pretty decent! And you'll end up very light. Would love to see the cost breakdown besides the weight.
Don't see much possibility to shave off weight when you want to go 120mm travel. Maybe lighter brakes. Why not get SRAM XX?
Cost breakdown... I hid that column from you guys, from myself, from my wife. But right now it's going to be in the range of $6k. Which I recognize is insane, but I spent $4100 on my current bike in 2014 and I'm still riding it today. 1900 miles this year alone. So I tell myself it is money well spent if I use it as much. My alternative consideration is an Epic EVO which would be basically $10k+ with similar spec... :o
For the brakes, I went with what I know which is the XT. The older set I have has been flawless. But I heard the newer models have issues? I spent years with AVIDs and had so many issues that it soured me.
Are the new SRAM offerings improved?
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Wow, that looks pretty decent! And you'll end up very light. Would love to see the cost breakdown besides the weight.
Don't see much possibility to shave off weight when you want to go 120mm travel. Maybe lighter brakes. Why not get SRAM XX?
Cost breakdown... I hid that column from you guys, from myself, from my wife. But right now it's going to be in the range of $6k. Which I recognize is insane, but I spent $4100 on my current bike in 2014 and I'm still riding it today. 1900 miles this year alone. So I tell myself it is money well spent if I use it as much. My alternative consideration is an Epic EVO which would be basically $10k+ with similar spec... :o
For the brakes, I went with what I know which is the XT. The older set I have has been flawless. But I heard the newer models have issues? I spent years with AVIDs and had so many issues that it soured me.
Are the new SRAM offerings improved?
I think I spent about $4300 on mine, it is 21.4lbs ready to ride (125mm bikeyoke dropper), but only 100mm fork (Fox sc32).
I saved some $$$ and weight by using 11sp XTR shift/der and just by being a bit patient waiting on a few deals like $250 for some new take-off XX1 SL cranks.
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Wow, that looks pretty decent! And you'll end up very light. Would love to see the cost breakdown besides the weight.
Don't see much possibility to shave off weight when you want to go 120mm travel. Maybe lighter brakes. Why not get SRAM XX?
Cost breakdown... I hid that column from you guys, from myself, from my wife. But right now it's going to be in the range of $6k. Which I recognize is insane, but I spent $4100 on my current bike in 2014 and I'm still riding it today. 1900 miles this year alone. So I tell myself it is money well spent if I use it as much. My alternative consideration is an Epic EVO which would be basically $10k+ with similar spec... :o
For the brakes, I went with what I know which is the XT. The older set I have has been flawless. But I heard the newer models have issues? I spent years with AVIDs and had so many issues that it soured me.
Are the new SRAM offerings improved?
No not at all. Shimano is also my go to brake system, especially with mineral oil. But seeing your liking in hearing group I assumed you are into SRAM.
As shipping takes around 4 weeks you have enough time to shop in secondary market to shave off cost. I did the same and will post my breakdown ones bike is finished. Also my weight goal which I want to achieve.
6k is not really insane if you compare it to complete bikes like you did. You're saving a lot on the frame. A Scott Spark is around what? 5k only framekit?
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Magura brakes are my go to, Shimano second.
Sram brakes I will never use again.
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Formula Cura for me, nothing else!
Shimano second.
I won't use Magura or SRAM ever again.
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If I do go through with this build, I would like to go ultralight (were it makes sense to do so from a cost/robustness standpoint). Here is my initial thoughts on a built list. Any feedback is appreciated. (attached)
(I know the BB is wrong, that's a carry over from my current ride)
I have a similar build going and all parts are in the house. Here are some comments:
Shock - the SidLuxe is lighter than 330, I will get a weight posted today
Wheels - I am not sure I would go that light if you are looking for a more aggressive downhill experience
Bottle cage - Only room for one, unless you plan to run an adapter to fit two
As someone else stated, I went with X01 11Spd and slightly used X01 Eagle crank. This was a huge money saver and weight is very competitive.
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If I do go through with this build, I would like to go ultralight (were it makes sense to do so from a cost/robustness standpoint). Here is my initial thoughts on a built list. Any feedback is appreciated. (attached)
(I know the BB is wrong, that's a carry over from my current ride)
wouldn't it be nice to have a huge database with all available component options to choose from? with all weights? There must be something like that out there.
I always need hours of reserarch for finding all my preferred components and their weight. If there would be a database to choose components by catergory and click them together to a bike list and make an excel export, would make things so much easier.
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Some of you have seen my issue with the slightly out-of-spec linkage upper shock mount. It's about half a mm too wide which leads to play using the 22.2mm hardware as per Carbonda's specs. I temporarily solved the issue by machining wider hardware, but I want to use the Enduro Bearings needle bearing kit I bought for the frame, so I asked for a new linkage, which I was promised several weeks ago.
So after weeks of Adam @ Carbonda promising to ship me a new linkage, I got a weird message form him today: he sends me this picture on Skype and says:
"as the linkage is hard to meet your requirement,so we will send some spacers to you come with it,okay??
(https://i.imgur.com/ENedLDe.png)
What does he even mean by "the linkage is hard to meet your requirements.."? They're not MY requirements, they're Carbonda's quality control issues! The upper mount span of the linkage I have is 22.7mm, not 22.2mm as it should be. No one else on this thread reported the same issue. They must be able to make their own linkage to spec, no?
I declined the spacer solution and we'll see what he says. Loving the frame but this seems a bit ridiculous.
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Some of you have seen my issue with the slightly out-of-spec linkage upper shock mount. It's about half a mm too wide which leads to play using the 22.2mm hardware as per Carbonda's specs. I temporarily solved the issue by machining wider hardware, but I want to use the Enduro Bearings needle bearing kit I bought for the frame, so I asked for a new linkage, which I was promised several weeks ago.
So after weeks of Adam @ Carbonda promising to ship me a new linkage, I got a weird message form him today: he sends me this picture on Skype and says:
"as the linkage is hard to meet your requirement,so we will send some spacers to you come with it,okay??
(https://i.imgur.com/ENedLDe.png)
What does he even mean by "the linkage is hard to meet your requirements.."? They're not MY requirements, they're Carbonda's quality control issues! The upper mount span of the linkage I have is 22.7mm, not 22.2mm as it should be. No one else on this thread reported the same issue. They must be able to make their own linkage to spec, no?
I declined the spacer solution and we'll see what he says. Loving the frame but this seems a bit ridiculous.
Could you post a picture of the assembly and show the play? I want to figure something out.
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Some of you have seen my issue with the slightly out-of-spec linkage upper shock mount. It's about half a mm too wide which leads to play using the 22.2mm hardware as per Carbonda's specs. I temporarily solved the issue by machining wider hardware, but I want to use the Enduro Bearings needle bearing kit I bought for the frame, so I asked for a new linkage, which I was promised several weeks ago.
So after weeks of Adam @ Carbonda promising to ship me a new linkage, I got a weird message form him today: he sends me this picture on Skype and says:
"as the linkage is hard to meet your requirement,so we will send some spacers to you come with it,okay??
What does he even mean by "the linkage is hard to meet your requirements.."? They're not MY requirements, they're Carbonda's quality control issues! The upper mount span of the linkage I have is 22.7mm, not 22.2mm as it should be. No one else on this thread reported the same issue. They must be able to make their own linkage to spec, no?
I declined the spacer solution and we'll see what he says. Loving the frame but this seems a bit ridiculous.
Could you post a picture of the assembly and show the play? I want to figure something out.
The play won't show on video. It's only noticable if you grab the bike by the top tube or the linkage area and lift or rock it gently. I posted a picture several weeks ago in this thread here http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.375.html
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Magura brakes are my go to, Shimano second.
Sram brakes I will never use again.
I have kind of forgotten about Magura; I've not owned a set since their hydraulic rim brakes about 20 years ago. Remember those?! I was a celebrity at school when I got my set.
Formula Cura for me, nothing else!
Shimano second.
I won't use Magura or SRAM ever again.
I don't know anything about Formula. They are lighter. I'll read some reviews.
I have a similar build going and all parts are in the house. Here are some comments:
Shock - the SidLuxe is lighter than 330, I will get a weight posted today
Wheels - I am not sure I would go that light if you are looking for a more aggressive downhill experience
Bottle cage - Only room for one, unless you plan to run an adapter to fit two
As someone else stated, I went with X01 11Spd and slightly used X01 Eagle crank. This was a huge money saver and weight is very competitive.
Good feedback. Thank you. For the wheels, you have a point. I think my current set is ~1590g (30mm outer width, hookless, 28spoke, Novatec hubs) and has been very robust; only recently did the rear hub fail. I was hoping to save weight with nicer hubs this time (maybe 240s). I think I can get lighter than 1590 pretty easily, but maybe shouldn't shoot for something too extremely light. Do you have any recommendations for what makes a robust wheel?
2nd bottle cage was left over from my HT build. Knowing I will likely only have a single bottle cage on most new suspension frames, I have made a point to ride with only a single bottle this year to see if it is a problem. I think it will be OK for about 90% of my rides. For the rest, I'll carry a second in my jersey pocket or pack.
You and others make a good point with the 11spd stuff. I just wanted the 'new' hotness I guess. I ride 11spd now (10-46) with 32T and I would appreciate more of a climbing gear. I guess I could look at a 10-50 cassette for 11 spd; there are some options available.
wouldn't it be nice to have a huge database with all available component options to choose from? with all weights? There must be something like that out there.
I always need hours of reserarch for finding all my preferred components and their weight. If there would be a database to choose components by catergory and click them together to a bike list and make an excel export, would make things so much easier.
That would be sweet. And not very hard to setup really. The issue would be maintaining the database. Is anyone working on this at all?
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Magura brakes are my go to, Shimano second.
Sram brakes I will never use again.
I have kind of forgotten about Magura; I've not owned a set since their hydraulic rim brakes about 20 years ago. Remember those?! I was a celebrity at school when I got my set.
Formula Cura for me, nothing else!
Shimano second.
I won't use Magura or SRAM ever again.
I don't know anything about Formula. They are lighter. I'll read some reviews.
I have a similar build going and all parts are in the house. Here are some comments:
Shock - the SidLuxe is lighter than 330, I will get a weight posted today
Wheels - I am not sure I would go that light if you are looking for a more aggressive downhill experience
Bottle cage - Only room for one, unless you plan to run an adapter to fit two
As someone else stated, I went with X01 11Spd and slightly used X01 Eagle crank. This was a huge money saver and weight is very competitive.
Good feedback. Thank you. For the wheels, you have a point. I think my current set is ~1590g (30mm outer width, hookless, 28spoke, Novatec hubs) and has been very robust; only recently did the rear hub fail. I was hoping to save weight with nicer hubs this time (maybe 240s). I think I can get lighter than 1590 pretty easily, but maybe shouldn't shoot for something too extremely light. Do you have any recommendations for what makes a robust wheel?
2nd bottle cage was left over from my HT build. Knowing I will likely only have a single bottle cage on most new suspension frames, I have made a point to ride with only a single bottle this year to see if it is a problem. I think it will be OK for about 90% of my rides. For the rest, I'll carry a second in my jersey pocket or pack.
You and others make a good point with the 11spd stuff. I just wanted the 'new' hotness I guess. I ride 11spd now (10-46) with 32T and I would appreciate more of a climbing gear. I guess I could look at a 10-50 cassette for 11 spd; there are some options available.
wouldn't it be nice to have a huge database with all available component options to choose from? with all weights? There must be something like that out there.
I always need hours of reserarch for finding all my preferred components and their weight. If there would be a database to choose components by catergory and click them together to a bike list and make an excel export, would make things so much easier.
That would be sweet. And not very hard to setup really. The issue would be maintaining the database. Is anyone working on this at all?
Oh yeah, the good old HS33 times... Still running those on my city bitch.
The Formula R1 Race is one of the lightest available brakes.
I got DT240 hubs in my last wheelset. Won't spent that much money on those ever again. The DT350 are only a few dozen grams heavier, but are a bargain, especially when using the 54T ratchet they are awesome.
If you don't run a dropper, there might be space for a second bottle. Or maybe it's possible to strap to the fork?
Yeah 11 speed is very affordable these days. Especially Shimano. But I like to go 12s also as I had 11s running on the bikes.
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Good feedback. Thank you. For the wheels, you have a point. I think my current set is ~1590g (30mm outer width, hookless, 28spoke, Novatec hubs) and has been very robust; only recently did the rear hub fail. I was hoping to save weight with nicer hubs this time (maybe 240s). I think I can get lighter than 1590 pretty easily, but maybe shouldn't shoot for something too extremely light. Do you have any recommendations for what makes a robust wheel?
I would definitely go with a hub that can be serviced and has readily available bearings, freewheels, etc. I have a set of light bicycle 32h rims laced to American Classic (went out of business) 350 disc hubs that I just converted to boost and XD driver. I am concerned with finding XD drivers going forward...but the bearings are readily available in low and high quality.
My wheelset is eight years old. A key build decision was going with brass nipples and stouter drive side rear spokes. I haven't had to true or replace a spoke and re-dish for the boost spacing was painless.
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+1 on brass nippels when using carbon rims!
Why? Electrochemical corrosion!
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I would definitely go with a hub that can be serviced and has readily available bearings, freewheels, etc. I have a set of light bicycle 32h rims laced to American Classic (went out of business) 350 disc hubs that I just converted to boost and XD driver. I am concerned with finding XD drivers going forward...but the bearings are readily available in low and high quality.
My wheelset is eight years old. A key build decision was going with brass nipples and stouter drive side rear spokes. I haven't had to true or replace a spoke and re-dish for the boost spacing was painless.
+1 on brass nippels when using carbon rims!
Why? Electrochemical corrosion!
I learned the lesson about brass nipples the hard way. Stan's fluid is apparently caustic (due to ammonia in it) and ate the tops off all the aluminum nipples. I had to cut several spokes to get the wheel apart to swap the hub. Nothing like cutting $3.50 Sapim bladed spokes with wire cutters... >:(
I am rebuilding the wheel with brass. I'll take the 12g penalty!
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I would definitely go with a hub that can be serviced and has readily available bearings, freewheels, etc. I have a set of light bicycle 32h rims laced to American Classic (went out of business) 350 disc hubs that I just converted to boost and XD driver. I am concerned with finding XD drivers going forward...but the bearings are readily available in low and high quality.
My wheelset is eight years old. A key build decision was going with brass nipples and stouter drive side rear spokes. I haven't had to true or replace a spoke and re-dish for the boost spacing was painless.
+1 on brass nippels when using carbon rims!
Why? Electrochemical corrosion!
I learned the lesson about brass nipples the hard way. Stan's fluid is apparently caustic (due to ammonia in it) and ate the tops off all the aluminum nipples. I had to cut several spokes to get the wheel apart to swap the hub. Nothing like cutting $3.50 Sapim bladed spokes with wire cutters... >:(
I am rebuilding the wheel with brass. I'll take the 12g penalty!
Carbon or Aluminium rims?
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Carbon or Aluminium rims?
Carbon
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...Given I ride a LARGE CS-218, should I consider a MED. or LAR. FM936? That reach on the FM936 really worries me......
I learned here from David Arthur that you should get your normal size. The frame is for short stems only. The reach seems long, but as the seat angle is very steep you won't have such a long reach in real life. Just check eff. top tube. Also Carbonda recommends a seatpost without setback on this frame.
I made my drawings, I ride L for my MTB's but this time took a M, and should get the same effective top tube length with a 50mm or 60mm stem. I'm 5'10" with 35" legs.
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... I went with what I know which is the XT... But I heard the newer models have issues?...
What issues did you hear about ? I was planning to use the new version(Light, cheap and maybe more modularity than before), until your comment...
I built my previous bike about the same time as yours if I remember well, and have the Hope Race Evo X2 that still run fine.
I was hesitating between reusing or getting a new set of Hope's brakes, or the XT.
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Carbon or Aluminium rims?
Carbon
Then it's quite obvious this happened. With an electrically conducive medium like tubeless milk (electrolyte) there is a electrochemical corrosion going on. The Aluminum has a lower valence than the carbon so there is a constant ions transport from aluminum to carbon. Ths makes the aluminum corrode. It really dissolves. This can even lead to a complete nipple head failure and the ripping apart of nipple head and rest of nipple. This also happens with water, but it takes longer as water is faster evaporating like the persistent milk.
ALWAYS use brass nipples when buildung carbon rims you want to run tubeless and you want to ride your bike also in wet weather conditions. Salt from the winter times, even help the corrosion.
The avaiation learned it the hard way, as they were placing aluminum ribs on bare carbon. Nw they are using a insolation layer between the both like glassfiber.
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...wouldn't it be nice to have a huge database with all available component options to choose from? with all weights? ...
r2-bike.com (http://r2-bike.com) weight themselves almost all what they sell , and you can sort by weight.
Say you look for a stem, sort it by weight, and go down, until you reach what your wallet is ready to pay.
bike24.com (http://bike24.com), and bike-component.de (http://bike-component.de) have generally the constructor's weight, but no sorting option.
For older or second hand components, there is a list of components on Weight Weenies' site, but I'm not sure it is updated regularly.
Then it's quite obvious this happened. With an electrically conducive medium like tubeless milk (electrolyte) there is a electrochemical corrosion going on. The Aluminum has a lower valence than the carbon so there is a constant ions transport from aluminum to carbon.
Can't the quality of anodisation help ?
Along the years, I've had dissolved PILAR nipples, but the black SAPIM never did that.
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...wouldn't it be nice to have a huge database with all available component options to choose from? with all weights? ...
r2-bike.com (http://r2-bike.com) weight themselves almost all what they sell , and you can sort by weight.
Say you look for a stem, sort it by weight, and go down, until you reach what your wallet is ready to pay.
bike24.com (http://bike24.com), and bike-component.de (http://bike-component.de) have generally the constructor's weight, but no sorting option.
For older or second hand components, there is a list of components on Weight Weenies' site, but I'm not sure it is updated regularly.
Then it's quite obvious this happened. With an electrically conducive medium like tubeless milk (electrolyte) there is a electrochemical corrosion going on. The Aluminum has a lower valence than the carbon so there is a constant ions transport from aluminum to carbon.
Can't the quality of anodisation help ?
Along the years, I've had dissolved PILAR nipples, but the black SAPIM never did that.
Do you think I'm new in the business ;)
Sure thing I know about r2 and bike24. Great resources. But again an overall database like a "bike configurator" would be neat.
Yeah anodization helps! It all comes down to the method and to the thickness of the aluminum Oxyd layer which gets created by the method.
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Yeah anodization helps! It all comes down to the method and to the thickness of the aluminum Oxyd layer which gets created by the method.
No holes in rim bed also help a ton. A bit of a bitch to build or change spokes/nipples when they break but also no need to tape the rim and no chances of sealant going between the tape and the rim up to the nipples.
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Yeah anodization helps! It all comes down to the method and to the thickness of the aluminum Oxyd layer which gets created by the method.
No holes in rim bed also help a ton. A bit of a bitch to build or change spokes/nipples when they break but also no need to tape the rim and no chances of sealant going between the tape and the rim up to the nipples.
That's for dang sure. I wanted those rims this time, but as I build them my own, I prefer not to have to fiddle that much with all those nipples. As brass nor aluminum are magnetic, this won't help you here
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What issues did you hear about ? I was planning to use the new version(Light, cheap and maybe more modularity than before), until your comment...
I built my previous bike about the same time as yours if I remember well, and have the Hope Race Evo X2 that still run fine.
I was hesitating between reusing or getting a new set of Hope's brakes, or the XT.
Nothing specific, so don't change course based on my comment. I was getting that from a local Facebook group (of mostly gravity guys) when we were discussing brakes. People mentioned XTs and there was a lot of comments suggesting alternatives and belly aching about the XTs. Which surprised me because my older set has been honestly flawless. So I was left wondering if later versions missed the mark.
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Then it's quite obvious this happened. With an electrically conducive medium like tubeless milk (electrolyte) there is a electrochemical corrosion going on. The Aluminum has a lower valence than the carbon so there is a constant ions transport from aluminum to carbon. Ths makes the aluminum corrode. It really dissolves. This can even lead to a complete nipple head failure and the ripping apart of nipple head and rest of nipple. This also happens with water, but it takes longer as water is faster evaporating like the persistent milk.
ALWAYS use brass nipples when buildung carbon rims you want to run tubeless and you want to ride your bike also in wet weather conditions. Salt from the winter times, even help the corrosion.
The avaiation learned it the hard way, as they were placing aluminum ribs on bare carbon. Nw they are using a insolation layer between the both like glassfiber.
Awesome info. Any you're right. The tips of the nipples were nearly gone. Putting a screw driver in them was not possible as the slot was missing in most cases. I'm surprised I had not had complete failures up to that point. I think the stainless steel washers used were the only thing holding them in. These were black Sapim aluminum. 6 years old. Maybe 2-3 rim tape failures in the time I had them, so plenty of sealant contamination opportunities.
Brass ones arrived Monday and brass ones will be used on all future wheels as well. Because this was a PITA and cost me $114 in spokes.
That's for dang sure. I wanted those rims this time, but as I build them my own, I prefer not to have to fiddle that much with all those nipples. As brass nor aluminum are magnetic, this won't help you here
I read that people thread a tiny steel bolt into the nipple and then use a magnet to pull them into the holes. Seems like a PITA. But I might try hole-less with the next set I built up.
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Then it's quite obvious this happened. With an electrically conducive medium like tubeless milk (electrolyte) there is a electrochemical corrosion going on. The Aluminum has a lower valence than the carbon so there is a constant ions transport from aluminum to carbon. Ths makes the aluminum corrode. It really dissolves. This can even lead to a complete nipple head failure and the ripping apart of nipple head and rest of nipple. This also happens with water, but it takes longer as water is faster evaporating like the persistent milk.
ALWAYS use brass nipples when buildung carbon rims you want to run tubeless and you want to ride your bike also in wet weather conditions. Salt from the winter times, even help the corrosion.
The avaiation learned it the hard way, as they were placing aluminum ribs on bare carbon. Nw they are using a insolation layer between the both like glassfiber.
Awesome info. Any you're right. The tips of the nipples were nearly gone. Putting a screw driver in them was not possible as the slot was missing in most cases. I'm surprised I had not had complete failures up to that point. I think the stainless steel washers used were the only thing holding them in. These were black Sapim aluminum. 6 years old. Maybe 2-3 rim tape failures in the time I had them, so plenty of sealant contamination opportunities.
Brass ones arrived Monday and brass ones will be used on all future wheels as well. Because this was a PITA and cost me $114 in spokes.
That's for dang sure. I wanted those rims this time, but as I build them my own, I prefer not to have to fiddle that much with all those nipples. As brass nor aluminum are magnetic, this won't help you here
I read that people thread a tiny steel bolt into the nipple and then use a magnet to pull them into the holes. Seems like a PITA. But I might try hole-less with the next set I built up.
Holy moly, these are looking bad. You had black sapim aluminum spacers under the nipple heads? And these looking great? Are you sure they are aluminum? You could try a magnet on them to find out.
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I read that people thread a tiny steel bolt into the nipple and then use a magnet to pull them into the holes. Seems like a PITA.
This is exactly what I'm doing and it's working well as long as you have a strong magnet. You need to remove the valve stem to insert the nipples in the rim but you would have to do that also if you were to remove the tape to change a nipple so it's no big deal.
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Holy moly, these are looking bad. You had black sapim aluminum spacers under the nipple heads? And these looking great? Are you sure they are aluminum? You could try a magnet on them to find out.
I wasn't very clear on that point. Nipples were aluminum, black Sapim. But under them were some stainless steel washers/spacers; definitely steel, probably stainless given that they had zero corrosion and could be removed from the nipples easily.
Should I reuse these spacers on the new brass nipples?
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Holy moly, these are looking bad. You had black sapim aluminum spacers under the nipple heads? And these looking great? Are you sure they are aluminum? You could try a magnet on them to find out.
I wasn't very clear on that point. Nipples were aluminum, black Sapim. But under them were some stainless steel washers/spacers; definitely steel, probably stainless given that they had zero corrosion and could be removed from the nipples easily.
Should I reuse these spacers on the new brass nipples?
Only if the rim recommends those. Normally the case with thin aluminum rims
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XL SL frame came in at 2,012g. Everything was removed except for the cable liners.
Here are the weights of the attached items.
I will consider a RWC Shock Eye Needle Bearing Kit
Frame, shock, and all frame bits is 2,329g.
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XL SL frame came in at 2,012g. Everything was removed except for the cable liners.
Here are the weights of the attached items.
I will consider a RWC Shock Eye Needle Bearing Kit
Frame, shock, and all frame bits is 2,329g.
That is light for a frame that size - the XL is big.
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XL SL frame came in at 2,012g. Everything was removed except for the cable liners.
Here are the weights of the attached items.
I will consider a RWC Shock Eye Needle Bearing Kit
Frame, shock, and all frame bits is 2,329g.
That is light for a frame that size - the XL is big.
I will attempt measure the frame tonight.
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...I will consider a RWC Shock Eye Needle Bearing Kit...
Do you have a reference for this?
What does it improve?
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...I read that people thread a tiny steel bolt into the nipple...
You can cut 2 spokes at about 5mm after the thread.
It is a fiddle at the beginning, but when you get your hand on it, it is very quick.
Just once, one rim from Peter had still some bit of the air bladder in them preventing the nipples moving freely to two holes, I had to tear it apart with a spoke through the spoke holes... a nightmare... many hours lost!
Except that, not having to tape has only benefits, and I do that each time I build wheels now.
Thanks a lot IRaphI ! I never thought about using the same technique for taped rims.
This will save me time the next time someone brings me a broken spoke wheel.
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...I will consider a RWC Shock Eye Needle Bearing Kit...
Do you have a reference for this?
What does it improve?
The bearings are for the shock eye and replaces the DU Bushing. The hypothesis is that rocker pivots on bearings, just like at other connections to the frame.
https://www.enduroforkseals.com/products/rear-suspension/shock-eyelet-bearing-kits/6mm-8mm-thru-bolts/NEEDLE-BEARING-22.20.html
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Hi,
Im planning to order one of these, with a friend, to the UK, im excited to get it. Its replacing a 2019 intense sniper, thats had no end of issues and im juat going to cut my losses. Going for large frame, building it with 120mm fox 34 stepcast, hunt wheels, xt drivetrain, and a few other mid spec parts. Im looling forward to the steeper seat angle as well!
Im debating whether to get it painted atm, for those who have is it good quality paint? Ill put protective film on high wear areas regardless.
Also, i know what size shock i need, but has anypne got any input about the shock tune? Am i right in thinking that because it uses a flex point rather than a pivot, it will affect the rebound?
Cant wait to get it no matter what.
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Hi,
Im planning to order one of these, with a friend, to the UK, im excited to get it. Its replacing a 2019 intense sniper, thats had no end of issues and im juat going to cut my losses. Going for large frame, building it with 120mm fox 34 stepcast, hunt wheels, xt drivetrain, and a few other mid spec parts. Im looling forward to the steeper seat angle as well!
Im debating whether to get it painted atm, for those who have is it good quality paint? Ill put protective film on high wear areas regardless.
Also, i know what size shock i need, but has anypne got any input about the shock tune? Am i right in thinking that because it uses a flex point rather than a pivot, it will affect the rebound?
Cant wait to get it no matter what.
Hi, I'm also thinking about ordering one. In my research, I found this blog post about Carbonda's paint quality:
https://eastsidecyclingclub.com/group-gravel-bike-build-ordering-custom-paint/
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Hi,
Im planning to order one of these, with a friend, to the UK, im excited to get it. Its replacing a 2019 intense sniper, thats had no end of issues and im juat going to cut my losses. Going for large frame, building it with 120mm fox 34 stepcast, hunt wheels, xt drivetrain, and a few other mid spec parts. Im looling forward to the steeper seat angle as well!
Im debating whether to get it painted atm, for those who have is it good quality paint? Ill put protective film on high wear areas regardless.
Also, i know what size shock i need, but has anypne got any input about the shock tune? Am i right in thinking that because it uses a flex point rather than a pivot, it will affect the rebound?
Cant wait to get it no matter what.
Hi, I'm also thinking about ordering one. In my research, I found this blog post about Carbonda's paint quality:
https://eastsidecyclingclub.com/group-gravel-bike-build-ordering-custom-paint/
yeah, that guy posted some time ago on the riding gravel forum in the Carbonda thread there
https://www.ridinggravel.com/forum/?p=post%2Fchinese-carbon-gravel-build-carbonda-8254658%3F%26trail%3D3825
also very interesting thread for anybody who is in doubt of Carbonda's build quality
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If I'm being honest, paint design is always the hardest part of the build for me. Took me a month to decide last time.
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If I'm being honest, paint design is always the hardest part of the build for me. Took me a month to decide last time.
The same for me BY FAR!
And as I do painting (with spray cabs) and decal design all by myself it's going to be a long process.
But so far I know the colors and have an idea of the scheme.
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My frame arrived!
Hope you all like the color, I think its fun!
Here is my clearance with the cheap ebay 165x42.5 2018 fox dps bottomed out. When its already bottomed out and I continue to bounce on it the frame doesn't budge. I agree with NumberZero and Medico, 42.5 seems bomber.
This build is looking better and better. No problems so far. Quality is great
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My frame arrived!
Hope you all like the color, I think its fun!
Here is my clearance with the cheap ebay 165x42.5 2018 fox dps bottomed out. When its already bottomed out and I continue to bounce on it the frame doesn't budge. I agree with NumberZero and Medico, 42.5 seems bomber.
This build is looking better and better. No problems so far. Quality is great
love it! You have balls!
clearance seem to be very small, but should be fine I guess. Will also run the 42.5 and try not to bottom out. I'm not a true XC rider with all that jumping. Just wanne have a very smooth riding fast bike with which I can ride in the woods and on the streets and on gravel.
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My frame arrived!
That one will get noticed, for sure :D
I'm not that worried about the 42.5mm anymore. From the other's feedback first.
And even on a jump, the force to flex the pivot/shock/BB fixture should be enormous for the triangle to go farther than your picture.
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My frame arrived!
Hope you all like the color, I think its fun!
Here is my clearance with the cheap ebay 165x42.5 2018 fox dps bottomed out. When its already bottomed out and I continue to bounce on it the frame doesn't budge. I agree with NumberZero and Medico, 42.5 seems bomber.
This build is looking better and better. No problems so far. Quality is great
Great color! I didn't go with paint but next time I am going with something LOUD :D
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love it! You have balls!
That one will get noticed, for sure :D
Great color! I didn't go with paint but next time I am going with something LOUD :D
Thank you! I am glad I went with this color. Carbonda is amazing, I will look out for more from them in the future.
Build is pretty finished now!
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love it! You have balls!
That one will get noticed, for sure :D
Great color! I didn't go with paint but next time I am going with something LOUD :D
Thank you! I am glad I went with this color. Carbonda is amazing, I will look out for more from them in the future.
Build is pretty finished now!
oh wow, you're a fast builder.
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Thank you! I am glad I went with this color. Carbonda is amazing, I will look out for more from them in the future.
Build is pretty finished now!
Looks great. I'm interested to hear your impressions on the ride. In particular, how does it climb and how good/bad in the pedal bob under power?
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...how good/bad in the pedal bob under power?
This is definitely a worry for us hardtails guys ;)
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Love the pink
Looking forward to hearing some news on my shipment! Payment sent for 1 frame around the 20th July, no news yet! How long did it take you guys from payment to shipment? Thanks
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Love the pink
Looking forward to hearing some news on my shipment! Payment sent for 1 frame around the 20th July, no news yet! How long did it take you guys from payment to shipment? Thanks
10 days as I chose UD matte black. But I pushed for it in the meantime
I payed July 11th
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Love the pink
Looking forward to hearing some news on my shipment! Payment sent for 1 frame around the 20th July, no news yet! How long did it take you guys from payment to shipment? Thanks
For my order, the DHL tracking had the label created the day I ordered and it shipped about two weeks later.
What shipping did you chose?
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Thank you! I am glad I went with this color. Carbonda is amazing, I will look out for more from them in the future.
Build is pretty finished now!
Looks great. I'm interested to hear your impressions on the ride. In particular, how does it climb and how good/bad in the pedal bob under power?
I can comment on it after almost 3000km on it and recently biked in the Alpes.
Using a rs deluxe 165x42.5 shock with 30% sag and 80+kg geared up.
There is some visible moving while biking, but not noticable while biking offroad. On tarmac I sometimes use the paddlestand when hammering...but not sure it really helps..
On steep and technical climbing without lockout without a doubt, more traction and controll, love the active suspension...like to sit while climbing btw.
Hopefully this helps you.
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oh wow, you're a fast builder.
Thanks you, I couldnt get any work done until I finished the build. So I worked on it all the time.
Looks great. I'm interested to hear your impressions on the ride. In particular, how does it climb and how good/bad in the pedal bob under power?
I have some tuning to do. Then I will ride it for a bit before I give my impressions.
Love the pink
Looking forward to hearing some news on my shipment! Payment sent for 1 frame around the 20th July, no news yet! How long did it take you guys from payment to shipment? Thanks
Thank you! It is very pink in the sunlight but, magenta with indoor lighting. As for time, I send payment on July 3rd it shipped out on the 30th. DHL was very quick. Adam could have been faster.
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For my order, the DHL tracking had the label created the day I ordered and it shipped about two weeks later.
What shipping did you chose?
Thanks to all for the info! I chose DHL and paid 220 USD for it :)
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I can comment on it after almost 3000km on it and recently biked in the Alpes.
Using a rs deluxe 165x42.5 shock with 30% sag and 80+kg geared up.
There is some visible moving while biking, but not noticable while biking offroad. On tarmac I sometimes use the paddlestand when hammering...but not sure it really helps..
On steep and technical climbing without lockout without a doubt, more traction and controll, love the active suspension...like to sit while climbing btw.
Hopefully this helps you.
This is good feedback. I am still on the fence, but I don't think it's because I question the bike anymore. I think it's because I'm afraid to stray too far from the feeling of an XC hardtail. Before considering a Chiner again, I was really focused on an Epic because of that efficient race bike feel, but the benefits of FS. I also have bad memories of my 2011 Giant Anthem and all of it's bad behavior when climbing. But a lot has changed since then with geometry and suspension design.
I suppose if I really dislike this frame for whatever reason, I can always transfer the components to another design and not be out too much money.
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Hi, I'm doing research on my build, and the whole Boost standard has me a little confused. I've searched and read through previous posts where people mention that the 52mm chainline is the standard, and one user mentioned using a Shimano XT M8100 crank, and had 1cm of clearance to the chainstays.
I'm also planning to use XT cranks, and I see that the M8100 part with 52mm chain line, "works with 142 or 148 O.L.D., and prioritizes narrowest possible Q factor"
Meanwhile, Shimano also makes the M8120 crank, with a 55mm chainline. I've seen some sites advertise this as the "Boost" crankset, and that the "55mm chain line works with 148 O.L.D., and prioritizes frame and tire clearance over Q-Factor"
Is the main take-away that both will work? Are there any negatives to having the 55mm chainline? Thanks.
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From.what I understood is 148mm rear drop out is boost standard. Therefore a boost crank will work best.
52mm is standard for that kind of rear dropout (1x crank). If you are going to use more than 52mm, the only reason do do so is to have more chainstay clearance for bigger chain rings.
A larger chainline than 52/53mm might lead to complications using the easiest gear (largest sprocket)
I haven't started my build yet, but I'm going to use a Next SL crank with 136mm spindle and garbaruk boost chainring. It has about 53mm chainline. Don't know how it will work though.
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I use a m7100 slx crank with a 12 sp slx casette... Zero issues with the 10 and the 51 sprocket... Would not go for 55 chainline because the biggest sprocket will give issues for sure (paddling back is the least of the problem).
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I use a m7100 slx crank with a 12 sp slx casette... Zero issues with the 10 and the 51 sprocket... Would not go for 52 chainline because the biggest sprocket will give issues for sure (paddling back is the least of the problem).
Thank you Colt__Seavers and Medico!
Medico -- Looking at the M7100, it has a 52mm chainline. Just to clarify your post, did you mean, "Would not go for 55 chainline...?"
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I use a m7100 slx crank with a 12 sp slx casette... Zero issues with the 10 and the 51 sprocket... Would not go for 52 chainline because the biggest sprocket will give issues for sure (paddling back is the least of the problem).
Thank you Colt__Seavers and Medico!
Medico -- Looking at the M7100, it has a 52mm chainline. Just to clarify your post, did you mean, "Would not go for 55 chainline...?"
Sorry...55 is what I mean
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I use a m7100 slx crank with a 12 sp slx casette... Zero issues with the 10 and the 51 sprocket... Would not go for 52 chainline because the biggest sprocket will give issues for sure (paddling back is the least of the problem).
Thank you Colt__Seavers and Medico!
Medico -- Looking at the M7100, it has a 52mm chainline. Just to clarify your post, did you mean, "Would not go for 55 chainline...?"
Sorry...55 is what I mean
Cool. Thank you again!
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Hey, someone had posted a link to ebay that no longer works. Ebay is suggesting a shock that I think should work (165x42.5), but says it's for a 27.5 Giant Anthem. No reason this shock shouldn't work, hey?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Fox-Performance-165-x-42-5-Shock-Giant-Anthem-27-5-Trunnion-Dps-Float-/124273032134?oid=143042612579
Thanks
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Looks great. I'm interested to hear your impressions on the ride. In particular, how does it climb and how good/bad in the pedal bob under power?
...how good/bad in the pedal bob under power?
This is definitely a worry for us hardtails guys ;)
Okay after a few rides with the rear sag just below 25% with low rebound. Here are my impressions.
Me: 175lb 5'10
Bike: Trail oriented build, Just under 26lb, Medium SL frame
Feels very planted and fast on flow trails. It handles small rock feilds so well you can stay focused on the next turn. The light weight and 29in wheels carries momentum up hill easily. I almost crash on the low angle ups by taking turns too fast. I have zero pedal bob when sitting. Minor pedal bob happens doing powerful standing up climbs but, it is far from an annoyance.
On more technical trails with big rocks everywhere the bike gets push around a bit. The slack front really helps and doesn't have any pedal bob ever (unlike the stumpjumper new evo I tried). I specifically noticed the amazing slack front on very steep and rocky areas. The set back stance makes me feel very secure and gives me the confidence to navigate techinical areas with speed. While this bike isn't as equipped for downhill as some of the higher travel trail bikes I have tried(Pivot 429 comes to mind), it is super fun and capable.
This is an amazing bike for anyone trying to get a more capable XC bike with solid trail performance. I don't see any downsides to the modern geometry. For me in Colorado, this bike will make an excellent jack of all trades
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Hey, someone had posted a link to ebay that no longer works. Ebay is suggesting a shock that I think should work (165x42.5), but says it's for a 27.5 Giant Anthem. No reason this shock shouldn't work, hey?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Fox-Performance-165-x-42-5-Shock-Giant-Anthem-27-5-Trunnion-Dps-Float-/124273032134?oid=143042612579
Thanks
You need to check the tune... For a giant it is specific tuned for the maestro link...don't know what others use. But length en stroke are fine, so it will fit.
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Looks great. I'm interested to hear your impressions on the ride. In particular, how does it climb and how good/bad in the pedal bob under power?
...how good/bad in the pedal bob under power?
This is definitely a worry for us hardtails guys ;)
Okay after a few rides with the rear sag just below 25% with low rebound. Here are my impressions.
Me: 175lb 5'10
Bike: Trail oriented build, Just under 26lb, Medium SL frame
Feels very planted and fast on flow trails. It handles small rock feilds so well you can stay focused on the next turn. The light weight and 29in wheels carries momentum up hill easily. I almost crash on the low angle ups by taking turns too fast. I have zero pedal bob when sitting. Minor pedal bob happens doing powerful standing up climbs but, it is far from an annoyance.
On more technical trails with big rocks everywhere the bike gets push around a bit. The slack front really helps and doesn't have any pedal bob ever (unlike the stumpjumper new evo I tried). I specifically noticed the amazing slack front on very steep and rocky areas. The set back stance makes me feel very secure and gives me the confidence to navigate techinical areas with speed. While this bike isn't as equipped for downhill as some of the higher travel trail bikes I have tried(Pivot 429 comes to mind), it is super fun and capable.
This is an amazing bike for anyone trying to get a more capable XC bike with solid trail performance. I don't see any downsides to the modern geometry. For me in Colorado, this bike will make an excellent jack of all trades
My cat loves the rear deraileur too! Can I ask what your rear shock PSI and rebound setting are? I'm same weight but taller and on a large frame, running 240 PSI with rebound at 6 clicks out from closed. Feels a little too fast vs the front end at times.
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Hey, someone had posted a link to ebay that no longer works. Ebay is suggesting a shock that I think should work (165x42.5), but says it's for a 27.5 Giant Anthem. No reason this shock shouldn't work, hey?
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Fox-Performance-165-x-42-5-Shock-Giant-Anthem-27-5-Trunnion-Dps-Float-/124273032134?oid=143042612579
Thanks
You need to check the tune... For a giant it is specific tuned for the maestro link...don't know what others use. But length en stroke are fine, so it will fit.
This is the same shock that a lot of people in this thread are using. Can't speak to the tune but it seems to work fine.
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I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS
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I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS
This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
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I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS
This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
Thanks, is this normally supplied with the shock or with the frame?
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I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS
This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
Thanks, is this normally supplied with the shock or with the frame?
No. You have to buy it seperatly
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I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS
This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
Thanks, is this normally supplied with the shock or with the frame?
No. You have to buy it seperatly
But I only need one right? as the lower end will get attached by two M10 bolts which come with the frame?!
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I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS
This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
Thanks, is this normally supplied with the shock or with the frame?
No. You have to buy it seperatly
But I only need one right? as the lower end will get attached by two M10 bolts which come with the frame?!
Yep
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I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS
This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
Thanks, is this normally supplied with the shock or with the frame?
No. You have to buy it seperatly
But I only need one right? as the lower end will get attached by two M10 bolts which come with the frame?!
Yep
Thanks mate. First time building a fully here.
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I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS
This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
Thanks, is this normally supplied with the shock or with the frame?
No. You have to buy it seperatly
But I only need one right? as the lower end will get attached by two M10 bolts which come with the frame?!
Yep
Thanks mate. First time building a fully here.
I find it quite pleasing...dont rush it, take your time and enjoy!
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Okay after a few rides with the rear sag just below 25% with low rebound. Here are my impressions.
Me: 175lb 5'10
Bike: Trail oriented build, Just under 26lb, Medium SL frame
...
Feels very planted and fast on flow trails. It handles small rock feilds so well you can stay focused on the next turn. The light weight and 29in wheels carries momentum up hill easily. I almost crash on the low angle ups by taking turns too fast. I have zero pedal bob when sitting. Minor pedal bob happens doing powerful standing up climbs but, it is far from an annoyance.
On more technical trails with big rocks everywhere the bike gets push around a bit. The slack front really helps and doesn't have any pedal bob ever (unlike the stumpjumper new evo I tried). I specifically noticed the amazing slack front on very steep and rocky areas. The set back stance makes me feel very secure and gives me the confidence to navigate techinical areas with speed. While this bike isn't as equipped for downhill as some of the higher travel trail bikes I have tried(Pivot 429 comes to mind), it is super fun and capable.
This is an amazing bike for anyone trying to get a more capable XC bike with solid trail performance. I don't see any downsides to the modern geometry. For me in Colorado, this bike will make an excellent jack of all trades
This is great feedback. My stats are about the same as yours; 5'10" and 165 lbs. I'm on the fence about Med vs Lg. I'm riding a large XC hardtail now, but could see the advantage of a more 'compact' sizing for a bike I'd be getting a bit rowdier on than I do with the hardtail (which is generally really long sessions of power to the pedals and less tech stuff). I'm leaning towards Med for this frame.
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My cat loves the rear deraileur too! Can I ask what your rear shock PSI and rebound setting are? I'm same weight but taller and on a large frame, running 240 PSI with rebound at 6 clicks out from closed. Feels a little too fast vs the front end at times.
I counted 10 clicks from full rebound toward softer, At just under 200psi. I bet the shock behaves differently on a larger frame.
For the newer people like me, when you pump up the rear shock make sure to equalize the chambers by compressing to 25% about 20 times. Then check the sag and PSI again. Also, this shock tune is: 2018, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion Evol LV, Giant, Anthem 27.5 2, 165, 42.5, 0.8 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CML, YS 2272/YS 2272 Logo
That 0.8 spacer means bottoming out the rear shock is really tough. Thats why I go for such low rebound, with semi-high pressure. Of course, I dont really know what I am doing. :P
I wonder if I'm missing a plastic reduction bushing or something like that on my rear shock. The hole is 15,2mm on my float DPS
This is what you need:
https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
This is what I used too, worked perfectly.
This is great feedback. My stats are about the same as yours; 5'10" and 165 lbs. I'm on the fence about Med vs Lg. I'm riding a large XC hardtail now, but could see the advantage of a more 'compact' sizing for a bike I'd be getting a bit rowdier on than I do with the hardtail (which is generally really long sessions of power to the pedals and less tech stuff). I'm leaning towards Med for this frame.
I think the medium is a good size. I have a short stem and 750mm handle bars. Maybe go for 780mm bars.
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Slowly building.
Key advice, run all cables first. Then start with dropper and cockpit.
Here is a shot of the head tube where I used foam sheathing on the shifter and rear brake lines.
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^ What he said
Def do all housing pulls BEFORE installing BB or HS. Def get foam insulation for the internal housing as well and install during initial build (like this https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/lifeline-internal-routing-anti-vibration-foam/rp-prod185571). My pool noodle hack after install works pretty good, but I'd rather have the real housing insulation.
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Hi guys, received my frame and I have a question.
When I deinstall the plastic holder on the linkage, the frame won't fold easily. There is a pretention which forces it to go back to its previous position. Like an integrated rebound. Is that normal?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O1YFdZvNJjdkX3CjfY9CznJqs7PPPjuU/view?usp=drivesdk
Edit:
Because of that, the rear triangle hit the seat tube when I tried to overforce the integrated rebound/flex over a certain point where the flex went not back but to the different direction and hitting the seat tube with some force. Don't know if it harmed the structure. Don't think so, as there is about 2-3mm carbon. And with the knocking coin method all seems normal. Just sucks hitting the carbon through a behavior which was knowing to me by now. I assume it needs way more force than that to harm it. Especially because this part has pretty thick layup
...my first fully I'm building...
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Hi guys, received my frame and I have a question.
When I deinstall the plastic holder on the linkage, the frame won't fold easily. There is a pretention which forces it to go back to its previous position. Like an integrated rebound. Is that normal?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O1YFdZvNJjdkX3CjfY9CznJqs7PPPjuU/view?usp=drivesdk
...my first fully I'm building...
Yep its normal... because of the flexstays I think.
If you push harder watch out it won't hit the seatstay.
Good luck building it up
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Hi guys, received my frame and I have a question.
When I deinstall the plastic holder on the linkage, the frame won't fold easily. There is a pretention which forces it to go back to its previous position. Like an integrated rebound. Is that normal?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O1YFdZvNJjdkX3CjfY9CznJqs7PPPjuU/view?usp=drivesdk
...my first fully I'm building...
Yep its normal... because of the flexstays I think.
If you push harder watch out it won't hit the seatstay.
Good luck building it up
Unfortunately this info comes too late ;)
Read my edit above. Hopefully such a hit doesn't harm the carbon structure
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Hi guys, received my frame and I have a question.
When I deinstall the plastic holder on the linkage, the frame won't fold easily. There is a pretention which forces it to go back to its previous position. Like an integrated rebound. Is that normal?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O1YFdZvNJjdkX3CjfY9CznJqs7PPPjuU/view?usp=drivesdk
...my first fully I'm building...
Yep its normal... because of the flexstays I think.
If you push harder watch out it won't hit the seatstay.
Good luck building it up
Unfortunately this info comes too late ;)
Read my edit above. Hopefully such a hit doesn't harm the carbon structure
If it hits the frame like your vid... Don't Worry, maybe a scratch on the paint, nothing else
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Hi guys, received my frame and I have a question.
When I deinstall the plastic holder on the linkage, the frame won't fold easily. There is a pretention which forces it to go back to its previous position. Like an integrated rebound. Is that normal?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1O1YFdZvNJjdkX3CjfY9CznJqs7PPPjuU/view?usp=drivesdk
...my first fully I'm building...
Yep its normal... because of the flexstays I think.
If you push harder watch out it won't hit the seatstay.
Good luck building it up
Unfortunately this info comes too late ;)
Read my edit above. Hopefully such a hit doesn't harm the carbon structure
If it hits the frame like your vid... Don't Worry, maybe a scratch on the paint, nothing else
Yeah it happened just before I did the video, where I pushed too hard and I went over a certain point where the spring force goes the other way and hits the seat tube. And after that it springs immediately back to its starting position. No scratch just a small 2mm touch point on both hitting parts where the coating changed it's surface roughness.
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Do you think there's enough room to run a second bottle cage using a universal clamp on cage hanging from the top tube? Hard to tell from the pictures with those who have bottle cages on the downtube.
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Do you think there's enough room to run a second bottle cage using a universal clamp on cage hanging from the top tube? Hard to tell from the pictures with those who have bottle cages on the downtube.
Won't fit on a medium frame...maybe on large of xl
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Colt, I expect it's fine!
Frame shipped today! I wanted the same colour (glitter purple) as Zilcho but covering the whole frame. something was lost in translation so they've painted it half black and half glitter as zilcho! @Zilcho - I'm really sorry mate!
I don't mind plus they'd already shipped it, so I'll not tell them anything, and not factor it into any feedback I post online. I'll put some skins on top of the black area so it won't look the same and Zilchos!
I started this build thinking I'd put a Rockshox gold 35, Shimano SLX, cheap alu rims but the budget has crept and now I'm going for SID 120mm and XT with BTLOS carbon 29mm internal rims. Thought to myself, if I'm going to race on it, might at wel buy the parts once rather than twice when I realise I need a bit more from the bike.
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Colt, I expect it's fine!
Frame shipped today! I wanted the same colour (glitter purple) as Zilcho but covering the whole frame. something was lost in translation so they've painted it half black and half glitter as zilcho! @Zilcho - I'm really sorry mate!
I don't mind plus they'd already shipped it, so I'll not tell them anything, and not factor it into any feedback I post online. I'll put some skins on top of the black area so it won't look the same and Zilchos!
I started this build thinking I'd put a Rockshox gold 35, Shimano SLX, cheap alu rims but the budget has crept and now I'm going for SID 120mm and XT with BTLOS carbon 29mm internal rims. Thought to myself, if I'm going to race on it, might at wel buy the parts once rather than twice when I realise I need a bit more from the bike.
Can u tell how much $ was this whit the paint?
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Can u tell how much $ was this whit the paint?
125$ USD
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Can u tell how much $ was this whit the paint?
125$ USD
Thanks
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Do you think there's enough room to run a second bottle cage using a universal clamp on cage hanging from the top tube? Hard to tell from the pictures with those who have bottle cages on the downtube.
I am going to experiment with the Wolftooth system and see if I can get two 20oz bottles on the down tube.
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Do you think there's enough room to run a second bottle cage using a universal clamp on cage hanging from the top tube? Hard to tell from the pictures with those who have bottle cages on the downtube.
I am going to experiment with the Wolftooth system and see if I can get two 20oz bottles on the down tube.
Awesome, I'll be curious to see if you can fit that. Unfortunately I think I'd go with a medium (I'm right in between medium and large) so there's likely not a whole lot of room in there. I guess I could always do clamp on mounts under the downtube with a bottle with a covered nozzle.
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Looking at used forks for the frame I just ordered (medium). How long has everyone been cutting their steerer tube? Obviously this will vary with frame size and riser preference.
Thanks!
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Frame got seized by Irish customs! Sadly I think I will have to pay VAT. Does anybody know what Carbonda puts on the box for the value? Seems I have to submit a copy of my Paypal transaction. Does anyone have the same experience? Thanks!
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Frame got seized by Irish customs! Sadly I think I will have to pay VAT. Does anybody know what Carbonda puts on the box for the value? Seems I have to submit a copy of my Paypal transaction. Does anyone have the same experience? Thanks!
I think Carbonda puts $120 or so if you don't explicitly ask them to under-invoice you. Where I live import duties are unavoidable, even if value is marked $0. I think they declared $120 and I paid some but wasn't what I'd have to pay on the frame's actual price of course.
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Frame got seized by Irish customs! Sadly I think I will have to pay VAT. Does anybody know what Carbonda puts on the box for the value? Seems I have to submit a copy of my Paypal transaction. Does anyone have the same experience? Thanks!
I think Carbonda puts $120 or so if you don't explicitly ask them to under-invoice you. Where I live import duties are unavoidable, even if value is marked $0. I think they declared $120 and I paid some but wasn't what I'd have to pay on the frame's actual price of course.
Thanks! They asked for my paypal statement and my invoice - think it might be difficult to avoid paying the full VAT! :(
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Looking at used forks for the frame I just ordered (medium). How long has everyone been cutting their steerer tube? Obviously this will vary with frame size and riser preference.
Thanks!
On my medium frame, I cut my steerer tube to 180mm. I am running an Ultimate USE 40mm stem which has a 45mm stack height I believe. Currenty I have two 10mm spacers below the stem with the topcap flush with the stem.
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What tire widths are u all using? Seems carbonda says 2.35, wondering is 2.4 will fit? Thanks
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What tire widths are u all using? Seems carbonda says 2.35, wondering is 2.4 will fit? Thanks
I currently have a kenda sabre 2.4 on the rear of mine, plenty of room available for that tire.
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Hi Everyone, I'm a long time lurker on this forum and I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the great information. My buddy and I have been riding Tideace FM-M009's for three years and we are about to plunge into the full suspension world. I've read through this whole thread and think I have a pretty good handle on the FM936. I've been emailing back and forth with Adam for a few days and am planning to pull the trigger on an XL frame tonight. I'm planning to reuse as many of my current bike's parts as possible.
One area I'm struggling with is the rear wheel. For those who have used the 142 to 148 boost conversion kits, how well does it work and is it a sustainable or just interim solution? How hard is it to take the wheel on and off with the spacer? I currently take my wheels off every time I ride to put the bike in the car.
Thanks!
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Hi Everyone, I'm a long time lurker on this forum and I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the great information. My buddy and I have been riding Tideace FM-M009's for three years and we are about to plunge into the full suspension world. I've read through this whole thread and think I have a pretty good handle on the FM936. I've been emailing back and forth with Adam for a few days and am planning to pull the trigger on an XL frame tonight. I'm planning to reuse as many of my current bike's parts as possible.
One area I'm struggling with is the rear wheel. For those who have used the 142 to 148 boost conversion kits, how well does it work and is it a sustainable or just interim solution? How hard is it to take the wheel on and off with the spacer? I currently take my wheels off every time I ride to put the bike in the car.
Thanks!
I used a conversionkit for a month or 2 without any issues. But a would glue or tape the conversion rings to your wheel otherwise you will lose them someday. Without it, placing them between the frame and wheel is a pain..
I used a piece of gorillatape to fix it...others I've seen used glue.
Good luck!
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Hi Everyone, I'm a long time lurker on this forum and I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the great information. My buddy and I have been riding Tideace FM-M009's for three years and we are about to plunge into the full suspension world. I've read through this whole thread and think I have a pretty good handle on the FM936. I've been emailing back and forth with Adam for a few days and am planning to pull the trigger on an XL frame tonight. I'm planning to reuse as many of my current bike's parts as possible.
One area I'm struggling with is the rear wheel. For those who have used the 142 to 148 boost conversion kits, how well does it work and is it a sustainable or just interim solution? How hard is it to take the wheel on and off with the spacer? I currently take my wheels off every time I ride to put the bike in the car.
Thanks!
are there permantent fox kits, like DT offers new end caps which you just change with the old ones. I think a water resistent glue like UHU repair Extreme will do the job also. And it's not that hard to get rid of again, when you ave to.
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So very annoyed, seems Shimano XT 1x12 is sold out everywhere in europe! Only https://www.bike24.com/p2333392.html is in stock and that's for the 165 cranks not 170! Darn it! Anybody seen it instock besides mantel (over priced)?
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Hi Everyone, I'm a long time lurker on this forum and I just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the great information. My buddy and I have been riding Tideace FM-M009's for three years and we are about to plunge into the full suspension world. I've read through this whole thread and think I have a pretty good handle on the FM936. I've been emailing back and forth with Adam for a few days and am planning to pull the trigger on an XL frame tonight. I'm planning to reuse as many of my current bike's parts as possible.
One area I'm struggling with is the rear wheel. For those who have used the 142 to 148 boost conversion kits, how well does it work and is it a sustainable or just interim solution? How hard is it to take the wheel on and off with the spacer? I currently take my wheels off every time I ride to put the bike in the car.
Thanks!
are there permantent fox kits, like DT offers new end caps which you just change with the old ones. I think a water resistent glue like UHU repair Extreme will do the job also. And it's not that hard to get rid of again, when you ave to.
Thanks for the input, I kind of figured it would be a hassel dealing with the spacer. My current wheels don't have a name brand hub that offers a kit or new end caps. I'll probably just buy a new rear wheel.
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So very annoyed, seems Shimano XT 1x12 is sold out everywhere in europe! Only https://www.bike24.com/p2333392.html is in stock and that's for the 165 cranks not 170! Darn it! Anybody seen it instock besides mantel (over priced)?
This year it's nuts with bikes and bike parts
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You can try r2-bikes.com... but doubt they will have it... But why would younuse xt if slx is allmost half the price and just a bit havier... I really like slx, have it on both of my bikes without issues
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You can try r2-bikes.com... but doubt they will have it... But why would younuse xt if slx is allmost half the price and just a bit havier... I really like slx, have it on both of my bikes without issues
Out of stock too but thanks though, my last resort is to by each component from a different place. R2 has 165 mm XT in stock but I don't know if i should go for 165, im 185cm and I have 175 on my road. Don't know how it would feel to swap regularly between the length. Regarding XT over slx, was mainly becuase XT wsas only 150 or so more expensive. and it looks a bit more bling. I think I'll actually run a SLX casette in the winter to reduce wear.
On a side note, i had to pay 260 euro VAT on my Frame f**ck sake, I didnt have the balls the fake the receipt and proof of payment...
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Frame Arrived! Shipped on saturday and arrived today with DHL - well packaged! Everything Perfect, but the little metal piece on the chainstay near the bottom bracket is missing. I'll have to find one somewhere.
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Hardest part of the build so far was replacing the DU bushing with the RWC bushing. Didn’t have the tool, tried the vice, got the Rockshox tool, it was able to remove the bushing but then had to use the vice to install the new one.
I can finally ride today!!! Shakeout first!
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Hardest part of the build so far was replacing the DU bushing with the RWC bushing. Didn’t have the tool, tried the vice, got the Rockshox tool, it was able to remove the bushing but then had to use the vice to install the new one.
I can finally ride today!!! Shakeout first!
Any play in the rear end now? I fought clunking in the rear of my Anthem due to those silly DU bushings. Terrible.
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Hardest part of the build so far was replacing the DU bushing with the RWC bushing. Didn’t have the tool, tried the vice, got the Rockshox tool, it was able to remove the bushing but then had to use the vice to install the new one.
I can finally ride today!!! Shakeout first!
Any play in the rear end now? I fought clunking in the rear of my Anthem due to those silly DU bushings. Terrible.
No play in the stand or on short ride up and down the block.
I did have trouble with the frame spacing for where the RWC bearing installs. I had to start from the back of the frame and work the RWC and shock forward to slide it into place. Then I installed the lower trunnion bolts.
Trying to slide the upper mount in place w the trunnion bolts fixed did not fit/slide in.
I ended up using the medium sized RWC inner roller.
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You think you are done w the build and get all excited to tune the RD when you realize the shop dished the rear wheel to work without the 5mm rotor spacer. So, the wheel is out of dish and the RD won’t shift into the largest cog.
This was the only thing I had the shop do and the mechanic had the frame when he did the dish. He also had the axle packaging which came with the 5mm spacer and longer bolts. We got in argument about why he needed the frame to do the dish, “just dish it to center” was my argument. Of course he didn’t even think about my point and just slapped the wheel in the frame and dished it based on brake location.
Also, need to shorten the travel on the dropper...
edit - not sure if the shop did anything wrong, thinking the hub and conversion kit could be incompatible...
edit #2 - my fault, tried to take short cut and convert AC225 to boost and the boost kit is for a hub that is already spaced for thru axle (my hub starts with the letter N). The fix is simple and will address the dishing/brake alignment issue.
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Looking at used forks for the frame I just ordered (medium). How long has everyone been cutting their steerer tube? Obviously this will vary with frame size and riser preference.
Thanks!
On my medium frame, I cut my steerer tube to 180mm. I am running an Ultimate USE 40mm stem which has a 45mm stack height I believe. Currenty I have two 10mm spacers below the stem with the topcap flush with the stem.
Was looking at a used fork cut to 6 3/8in. Sounds like that might be to short.
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Looking at used forks for the frame I just ordered (medium). How long has everyone been cutting their steerer tube? Obviously this will vary with frame size and riser preference.
Thanks!
On my medium frame, I cut my steerer tube to 180mm. I am running an Ultimate USE 40mm stem which has a 45mm stack height I believe. Currenty I have two 10mm spacers below the stem with the topcap flush with the stem.
Was looking at a used fork cut to 6 3/8in. Sounds like that might be to short.
For my medium frame 16cm is just right!
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Looking at used forks for the frame I just ordered (medium). How long has everyone been cutting their steerer tube? Obviously this will vary with frame size and riser preference.
Thanks!
On my medium frame, I cut my steerer tube to 180mm. I am running an Ultimate USE 40mm stem which has a 45mm stack height I believe. Currenty I have two 10mm spacers below the stem with the topcap flush with the stem.
Was looking at a used fork cut to 6 3/8in. Sounds like that might be to short.
6 3/8" work perfect on my medium - running a kalloy uno stem on top of a 1/2" spacer right now.
Mine is currently cut a bit longer so I also have a 1/2" spacer on top of the stem.
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Ordered my frame last week - super excited to receive it. I did decide to size down to a L (I am 188cm tall) to keep a bit quicker handling and climbing.
A few questions:
1. What is the max rotor size the rear will accept? hoping to go 203mm up front and 180mm out back.
2. Are most people ditching the headset that they include? I opted for it as it was pretty cheap. Not sure about quality.
3. Does the frame come with hardware bushing required for the upper shock mount (8mmx22.2mm).
4. I've seen people saying you should open up all the bearings on the rear link and grease them. I think I'll be doing that (not a question I guess..)
Went with custom paint job too! Will post a pic when I receive it in the next month or so.
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Ordered my frame last week - super excited to receive it. I did decide to size down to a L (I am 188cm tall) to keep a bit quicker handling and climbing.
A few questions:
1. What is the max rotor size the rear will accept? hoping to go 203mm up front and 180mm out back.
2. Are most people ditching the headset that they include? I opted for it as it was pretty cheap. Not sure about quality.
3. Does the frame come with hardware bushing required for the upper shock mount (8mmx22.2mm).
4. I've seen people saying you should open up all the bearings on the rear link and grease them. I think I'll be doing that (not a question I guess..)
1. 180 but you need a 160 -> 180 post mount adapter (i think)
2. Nah I'm going to use it! Don't see any issues with it superficially.
3. Not on mine.
4. Need to do that just to check regardless if the grease is needed or not
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Did anyone of you painted the UD carbon black in shiny clear coat? I wonmder if this looks good on a XC race bike or it should be better matt black
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Did anyone of you painted the UD carbon black in shiny clear coat? I wonmder if this looks good on a XC race bike or it should be better matt black
If you look, the top of my frame is a shiny black coat - I don't think it's clear coat, jut black. Looks amazing in my opinion.
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Ordered my frame last week - super excited to receive it. I did decide to size down to a L (I am 188cm tall) to keep a bit quicker handling and climbing.
A few questions:
1. What is the max rotor size the rear will accept? hoping to go 203mm up front and 180mm out back.
2. Are most people ditching the headset that they include? I opted for it as it was pretty cheap. Not sure about quality.
3. Does the frame come with hardware bushing required for the upper shock mount (8mmx22.2mm).
4. I've seen people saying you should open up all the bearings on the rear link and grease them. I think I'll be doing that (not a question I guess..)
Went with custom paint job too! Will post a pic when I receive it in the next month or so.
I've got 180 out back on mine. It does require the 160/180 adapter and is a very tight fit. I'm guessing the frame wasn't designed to accommodate them! However, it works, it's a tight fit and your tools rub on the seatstays when installing. I'll be dropping down to a 160 soon.
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Agree on the tight fitting rear caliper. None of my standard tools (torque bits) fit into the bolt and I had to use the wrench supplied with the Sram brakes to get in there.
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Hummm thanks all, Is it worryingly tight? or like OK?
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Tight might have been the wrong word, it was hard to get a wrench in there but I think the Sram wrench would work on 180MM rotor.
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A few questions:
1. What is the max rotor size the rear will accept? hoping to go 203mm up front and 180mm out back.
2. Are most people ditching the headset that they include? I opted for it as it was pretty cheap. Not sure about quality.
3. Does the frame come with hardware bushing required for the upper shock mount (8mmx22.2mm).
4. I've seen people saying you should open up all the bearings on the rear link and grease them. I think I'll be doing that (not a question I guess..)
Concerning #2 - I used the ultra cheap headset that was included with my hardtail in 2014. I still use it today and it is fine. Admittedly I live/ride in a very dry environment, but I have not recognized any issues with it. One thing I did do was apply a thin coat of silicone water-proof grease to the frame where the bearings sit to make sure there was no creaking.
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Did anyone of you painted the UD carbon black in shiny clear coat? I wonmder if this looks good on a XC race bike or it should be better matt black
UD with a gloss clear coat looks really neat. The places on my frame where I applied the paint protection film which is glossy look neat and the top tube, which was matte, has now been polished by my legs after thousands of miles and it looks great as well.
Its personal preference (matte or gloss), but I don't think you will be disappointed with gloss. It is subtle until the light hits it.
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Did anyone of you painted the UD carbon black in shiny clear coat? I wonmder if this looks good on a XC race bike or it should be better matt black
UD with a gloss clear coat looks really neat. The places on my frame where I applied the paint protection film which is glossy look neat and the top tube, which was matte, has now been polished by my legs after thousands of miles and it looks great as well.
Its personal preference (matte or gloss), but I don't think you will be disappointed with gloss. It is subtle until the light hits it.
Thanks man!
I'm 95% ready with my paint job design! Just the final details are missing.
I'll post a link to my build thread on German forum soon.
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Ordered my frame last week - super excited to receive it. I did decide to size down to a L (I am 188cm tall) to keep a bit quicker handling and climbing.
A few questions:
1. What is the max rotor size the rear will accept? hoping to go 203mm up front and 180mm out back.
2. Are most people ditching the headset that they include? I opted for it as it was pretty cheap. Not sure about quality.
3. Does the frame come with hardware bushing required for the upper shock mount (8mmx22.2mm).
4. I've seen people saying you should open up all the bearings on the rear link and grease them. I think I'll be doing that (not a question I guess..)
Went with custom paint job too! Will post a pic when I receive it in the next month or so.
I've got 180 out back on mine. It does require the 160/180 adapter and is a very tight fit. I'm guessing the frame wasn't designed to accommodate them! However, it works, it's a tight fit and your tools rub on the seatstays when installing. I'll be dropping down to a 160 soon.
regarding #1: 180mm for the rear is fine, you need a post mount adapter for sure.
I have a little story about this. I am using 180mm Magura rotors in the front and rear. Magura rotors use torx 25 screws. With my torque wrench, I could only access the futherest back rear screw from a terrible angle. All at once, the screw head stripped becoming a perfect circle hole. I was so terrified. Found out online vice grips are pretty good for removing stripped screws from the side. Moving a few mm at a time, it took me an hour and half to unscrew it with vice grips.
I replaced that screw with this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0769ZRW7B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Which I could tighten with an alan key straight on.
The lesson learned is to make sure you have a 'key' to tighten that rear screw. Alan keys are great, if you are using a torque 25 screw. You will need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005G3B4HE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
As #2, The headset is just okay. I am using it. I put a TI screw in that too. When you get it, check the bearings with your hands, Mine gave a small bit or resistance in one spot but, its impercievable when in use. Make sure be generous with the grease!
#3 No you need this https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/fox-rear-shock-mounting-hardware-8mm-x-22-19mm-0-874-5-piece-aluminum-1
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Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently?
I did order about 15 pages on this thread ago :o , and still no sign of production.
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Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently?
I did order about 15 pages on this thread ago :o , and still no sign of production.
Just go with the press-fit setup. Remember, Loctite is your best friend, bearings aren't too expensive, and if all else fails, turn the volume up on your earbuds to tune out the creaking. ;D
(BB30 is junk, but I have made it work without creaking over the past 6 years with Loctite and annual bearing replacement/servicing...)
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Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently?
I did order about 15 pages on this thread ago :o , and still no sign of production.
I ordered this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5
Looks pretty easy to put into the frame if this is anything to go by: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q0XAvr5Qn1k
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Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently?
I did order about 15 pages on this thread ago :o , and still no sign of production.
Just go with the press-fit setup. Remember, Loctite is your best friend, bearings aren't too expensive, and if all else fails, turn the volume up on your earbuds to tune out the creaking. ;D
(BB30 is junk, but I have made it work without creaking over the past 6 years with Loctite and annual bearing replacement/servicing...)
Yep, I've had no issues with PF30 or PF92 on any bikes so far - this is over the last 4 years. FM936 has been silent for 350 miles so far just using a SRAM BB.
BB30 on the other hand is complete garbage IMO. >:(
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...Just go with the press-fit setup...
All my bikes are PF, but the hole of BB92 is only 41mm, which leaves not much room for bearings around a 29/30mm spindle.
The bearings are just to thin to last, on the dry, and even more if you ride in the wet.
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I ordered this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5
I have it on my MTB, but the PF30 version for a 46mm frame hole instead of 41mm.
The ZTTO BB shell is nicely done, very comparable to the much more expensive ones from WheelsMFG.
The bearings coming with the BB were crap and I changed them. But these are the sturdy and cheap 6806.
In the case of BB86/92, you'll see the bearings are thin, small balls, that do not resist long to the forces.
And seize very rapidly if ridden in the wet or mud.
BB92 is a Shimano standard, that is designed for 24mm spindles.
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I was close to going 24mm spindle but the weight savings...
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I was close to going 24mm spindle but the weight savings...
Ah yes the m9100 XTR is 544g for 34 and the XT is 633g for 34T. Decent weight saving!
So I've finally finished ordering all my parts!! To get the full Shimano XT groupset (brakes 'n all) it took 4 different online shops and a massive excel sheet to find the cheapest combination. Things were going out of stock while I was it was going from the basket to checkout - a little annoying. In total I had to buy from 8 different shops. Please don't ask me how much I spent because I'll have to put a "=SUM(...)" on the Excel and I think I'll cry at the results ;D :o :'( . - But hey! cheaper than the NS! And arguably I got a better spec than the NS - carbon wheels and better brakes IMO.
One question I do have it.. how do I use those little plastic pipes to route my cables?
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I ordered this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5
I have it on my MTB, but the PF30 version for a 46mm frame hole instead of 41mm.
The ZTTO BB shell is nicely done, very comparable to the much more expensive ones from WheelsMFG.
The bearings coming with the BB were crap and I changed them. But these are the sturdy and cheap 6806.
In the case of BB86/92, you'll see the bearings are thin, small balls, that do not resist long to the forces.
And seize very rapidly if ridden in the wet or mud.
BB92 is a Shimano standard, that is designed for 24mm spindles.
when you want to have the FM936 frame with PF92, you should then use a 24mm spindle. simple as that! Or you accept to interchange bearings every ones in a while. Use a bottom bracket where both sides get screwed together, to have best alignment and be robust.
there is also a two ball row solution which is more sturdy by "enduro"
https://nsmb.com/articles/searching-30mm-bb92-solution/
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...Just go with the press-fit setup...
All my bikes are PF, but the hole of BB92 is only 41mm, which leaves not much room for bearings around a 29/30mm spindle.
The bearings are just to thin to last, on the dry, and even more if you ride in the wet.
You're not wrong at all. But I want the SRAM DUB crankset for the weight and stiffness. So I think I'll be stuck swapping bearings yearly. I've machined all the tools to do so quickly on BB30. I'll do the same with this. At least it's nice and dry out here in AZ...
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...I want the SRAM DUB crankset for the weight and stiffness...
My DUB crankset is already here, waiting for its frame.
And Belgium is kind of an opposite of your desert.
My gravel has a DUB spindle in a BB92. The bearings are toast already, just after a few months, and without any rain.
When looking for solutions, and asked BB Infinite and Hambini. Both told me to stay clear from the PF92-29/30mm combo.
BSA allows proper 30mm bearings, and is for me the only option if Carbonda does not provide a BB386 version.
Carbonda are usually very good in what they make, I just hope they align the shells straight.
The issue is important, and I'm just trying to make some more folks think about it if they want to run a DUB or 30mm spindle.
Hopefully getting more BSA frames ordered, so Carbonda feel some positive pressure, and make our 3 frames a bit faster :D
Just look around, you'll find how bad engineering are BB92/BB86/BB90 for DUB and 30mm spindles.
And how the bike industry is moving out of this infamous standard.
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My DUB crankset is already here, waiting for its frame.
And Belgium is kind of an opposite of your desert.
...
I don't want to hear what you're saying, but it's probably true. If you are successful with BSA, then I will order that as well. I just suspect they will not actually deliver. I'll cross my fingers for you, however.
I have been reading more about the T47 standard. I know, I know... ANOTHER STANDARD... but it seems to have many advantages.
https://wheelsmfg.com/bb-standards
https://wheelsmfg.com/blog/what-is-a-t47-bottom-bracket.html#:~:text=Having%20one%20set%20of%20threads%20as%20a%20permanent,to%20different%20crank%20spindle%20diameters%20and%20frame%20widths.
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Shakeout ride was a success. Water bottle rattled loose and rear brake is dragging a bit (need to align caliper better, or maybe new pads as the spring is worn out). Adjusted the position of one matchmaker as it was too close to the grip.
The suspension is so fresh and different. My last FS was a Titus Racer X Carbon back in 2011. That bike was too small for me. The FM936 with the Sidluxe Ultimate and the SID RCT3 that was just rebuilt by Squish Dynamics is such a treat!
Need to install the BRAD system for the second bottle and I’m ready for an epic weekend of dirt.
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Anyone ordered a BSA model and received it recently?
I did order about 15 pages on this thread ago :o , and still no sign of production.
I ordered this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5
Would love to hear your thoughts on this BB. Let me know ones it has arrived
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Shakeout ride was a success. Water bottle rattled loose and rear brake is dragging a bit (need to align caliper better, or maybe new pads as the spring is worn out). Adjusted the position of one matchmaker as it was too close to the grip.
The suspension is so fresh and different. My last FS was a Titus Racer X Carbon back in 2011. That bike was too small for me. The FM936 with the Sidluxe Ultimate and the SID RCT3 that was just rebuilt by Squish Dynamics is such a treat!
Need to install the BRAD system for the second bottle and I’m ready for an epic weekend of dirt.
What size frame? It almost looks like you can get two water bottles in line on that downtube with the right mounting setup. I'm thinking one pushed back behind the lower mounting point and one higher up in the triangle? What do you think? Or were you planning the B-RAD side-by-side setup?
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Shakeout ride was a success. Water bottle rattled loose and rear brake is dragging a bit (need to align caliper better, or maybe new pads as the spring is worn out). Adjusted the position of one matchmaker as it was too close to the grip.
The suspension is so fresh and different. My last FS was a Titus Racer X Carbon back in 2011. That bike was too small for me. The FM936 with the Sidluxe Ultimate and the SID RCT3 that was just rebuilt by Squish Dynamics is such a treat!
Need to install the BRAD system for the second bottle and I’m ready for an epic weekend of dirt.
What size frame? It almost looks like you can get two water bottles in line on that downtube with the right mounting setup. I'm thinking one pushed back behind the lower mounting point and one higher up in the triangle? What do you think? Or were you planning the B-RAD side-by-side setup?
This is the XL. I asked about drilling two sets of bosses and Carbonda wanted a minimum of ten frames for custom.
I have B RAD four ready to install and will do one on top of the other.
Edit: Side by side is likely a problem with my knees.
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...I want the SRAM DUB crankset for the weight and stiffness...
My DUB crankset is already here, waiting for its frame.
And Belgium is kind of an opposite of your desert.
My gravel has a DUB spindle in a BB92. The bearings are toast already, just after a few months, and without any rain.
When looking for solutions, and asked BB Infinite and Hambini. Both told me to stay clear from the PF92-29/30mm combo.
BSA allows proper 30mm bearings, and is for me the only option if Carbonda does not provide a BB386 version.
Carbonda are usually very good in what they make, I just hope they align the shells straight.
The issue is important, and I'm just trying to make some more folks think about it if they want to run a DUB or 30mm spindle.
Hopefully getting more BSA frames ordered, so Carbonda feel some positive pressure, and make our 3 frames a bit faster :D
Just look around, you'll find how bad engineering are BB92/BB86/BB90 for DUB and 30mm spindles.
And how the bike industry is moving out of this infamous standard.
For me, I am less concerned about bearing longevity due to my success with BB30 and full understanding of the compromises.
The big shortfall of DUB is its complexity. The way the bearings are preloaded leaves a ton of room for error. If you follow the instructions to a T then chances for premature failure are greatly reduced. In my experience it is the torque requirements of the crank bolt that is critical. This torque must be correct to allow the preload to have a chance. Check the preload every ride for the first 50-100kms.
Second, I’ve already gone the weight route with the SL frame and the Sidluxe Ultimate. Adding weight at the BB and crank seems contradictory to my build.
Third, I live in the Chicago area. I literally see Movistar WC Rainbow jerseys at Palos. Sram supports my local trails. Sram Rockshox all the way.
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Hi everybody.
I'm new to the forum and found it by coinsidence when it was searching for Chineese no name frames for a FS build.
After reading more or less all the posts about this frame my main feeling is that people after rather happy with the quality and support from Carbonda.
That leads me to the fact that I'm thinking of order one of this frames but like many others I feel that I'm in between sizes.
I'm 180 cm long and today I'm riding a hard tail that I'm very happy with. Seat position and span feels great.
What are your recommendations? Should I go for M or L?
I'm attaching the geometry of my current bike that I'm having in size L.
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Can anybody that has already built an XL bike comment on the length of the rear brake hose? I think my current hose is 1700mm, but I'm thinking that I'll probably need 2000mm.
Thanks!
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Can anybody that has already built an XL bike comment on the length of the rear brake hose? I think my current hose is 1700mm, but I'm thinking that I'll probably need 2000mm.
Thanks!
Asked the same thing. Got the answer that 1700mm is sufficient for XL and 60mm stem and 740mm bar. If I remember correctly the guy is running even longer stem and wider bar
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I'm 180 cm long and today I'm riding a hard tail that I'm very happy with. Seat position and span feels great.
What are your recommendations? Should I go for M or L?
I'm a lanky (long and thin) and 185cm (6'1" for the America dwellers) and ordered the L. I'll let you know how it feels with a 60mm stem for me. Also depends on flexibility I'm in my mid 20s so flexy enough so it also depends if you'd like to be more streched out (L) or upright (M).
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One question I do have it.. how do I use those little plastic pipes to route my cables?
I used painters tape to connect the plastic pipes to the housing and then pushed the housing through the frame and only used the plastic pipes to gently guide the housing where it needs to go.
Run all the housing first, before the bb, seatpost, fork/stem, and you barely need the plastic pipes.
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Is the rear axle, that comes with the FM936, a torx 40 ?
I've received such odd axle with a recent hardtail. No multi-tool has it.
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Is the rear axle, that comes with the FM936, a torx 40 ?
I've received such odd axle with a recent hardtail. No multi-tool has it.
6mm hex with o-ring inside.
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I have been reading this thread for quiet a few days and have gotten responses from Adam and have decided to go with a custom two tones with 936.. Had a few questions
This being my first Bike build have a few questions.. Want to keep the Bike budget below 3.5-4k USD
1. Carbonda has a 240S boost wheelset to go along with this, has anyone bought and / or has any feedback on it
2. Does any one have a spreadsheet with recommended components, some of you had created excel, can you send it over, I can PM my email address..
3. Should i get additional hangers
4. I see that the recommended bottom bracket is BB92, but saw that installation of that takes quiet an effort / special tool, should i ask them to install it, or as I see in some of the posts, should i get something like this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5
5. I am planning to go with SRAM X01 / GX eagle combination..
Thanks,
JB
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1. Carbonda has a 240S boost wheelset to go along with this, has anyone bought and / or has any feedback on it
They probably make them built by someone else, it is not their specialty.
ligthbicycle.com (http://ligthbicycle.com) or farsports.com (http://farsports.com) dedicate themselves to wheels and I would go with them instead.
2. Does any one have a spreadsheet with recommended components, some of you had created excel, can you send it over, I can PM my email address.
My very high end build spreadsheet (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1rbT28IhY802cn844UoSj960VWR9UTIYRHEOqxzus6Zc/edit?usp=sharing)
Here are some usual parts that may miss, delaying your maiden ride for a few days:
A front brake adapter for 180mm/200mm or 160mm/180mm rear disc, if it applies.
Shifting hose/cable/cable stops, brake hose/olive/barb may miss from the groupset you buy, so check with the vendor.
A bleeding kit and compatible brake oil, in case the reconnect of your rear brakes hose goes bad.
If you get a 240S hub with lockring, you may need to buy a ring for 15/20mm axles, as there is no room for the tool to tighten the disc.
Tubeless tape at the right width, and tubeless valves at the right height.
Having sealant too, Orange Regular is by far the best, efficient, easy to clean, doesn't stink.
3. Should i get additional hangers
I never had to use one, but I always order one spare that I take with me when traveling.
4. I see that the recommended bottom bracket is BB92
5. I am planning to go with SRAM X01 / GX eagle combination..
These are two quite contradictory statements ;)
If you plan to use a DUB spindle, BB92 is not a good choice.
The reason is a 41mm hole doesn't leave much room for a BB cup and bearings for a 29/30mm spindle.
Meaning you will change quite a lot of bearings along the life of your bike.
Worse, after a while, changing them so often is tiring, and you end up used to a poorly efficient and grinding drive train.
If you plan to use GXP spindles 24/22mm, BB92 will work.
Beware GXP has its woes too, as the left bearing is particularly stressed and die prematurely.
Carbonda will not install a BB for you, and the tool you need is a Shimano type BB tool you can find everywhere. If you don't have one, the ZTTO one is good.
And it is the same tool needed for 15/20mm brake lockrings.
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2. Does any one have a spreadsheet with recommended components, some of you had created excel, can you send it over, I can PM my email address.
2. My very high end build spreadsheet (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1rbT28IhY802cn844UoSj960VWR9UTIYRHEOqxzus6Zc/edit?usp=sharing)
Thanks, this is very helpful.. I will certainly use some of it, Did not know that brakes go that high. I did try and check the price sram groupset, apparently r2-bike does not ship to US this anymore..
4. I see that the recommended bottom bracket is BB92
5. I am planning to go with SRAM X01 / GX eagle combination.
These are two quite contradictory statements ;)
If you plan to use a DUB spindle, BB92 is not a good choice.
The reason is a 41mm hole doesn't leave much room for a BB cup and bearings for a 29/30mm spindle.
Meaning you will change quite a lot of bearings along the life of your bike.
Worse, after a while, changing them so often is tiring, and you end up used to a poorly efficient and grinding drive train.
If you plan to use GXP spindles 24/22mm, BB92 will work.
Beware GXP has its woes too, as the left bearing is particularly stressed and die prematurely.
Carbonda will not install a BB for you, and the tool you need is a Shimano type BB tool you can find everywhere. If you don't have one, the ZTTO one is good.
And it is the same tool needed for 15/20mm brake lockrings.
Okay my lack of knowledge is certainly higher that I expected :). So which is the recommended Bottom Bracket with X01 groupset..
Thanks once again for the detailed response.. I will talk to ightcycle on monday to get a quote and see what do they have to offer..
Cheers,
J
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I have been reading this thread for quiet a few days and have gotten responses from Adam and have decided to go with a custom two tones with 936.. Had a few questions
This being my first Bike build have a few questions.. Want to keep the Bike budget below 3.5-4k USD
I spend around 3000Euro but in Ireland we have 23% VAT and I got done by customs (268euro duty plus VAT) when they seized my package. Plus i paid 220 ish for DHL shipping (5 days from china)
If you went with SLX and a cheaper RockShox reba/35 Gold, Alu rims, I think it could be done for 2k euro.
1. Carbonda has a 240S boost wheelset to go along with this, has anyone bought and / or has any feedback on it
I got these with shimano XT 12 speed hubs (cheaper than DTswiss and they're silent - I hateee noisey hubs I want to hear nature!) https://btlos.com/mountain-bike/asymmetric-all-mountain-enduro-carbon-fiber-mtb-wheelset-tubeless-compatible (700USD including shipping so cheaper than Light Bicycle because LB didn't have standard 29mm internal with asym as I wanted - only premium.
2. Does any one have a spreadsheet with recommended components, some of you had created excel, can you send it over, I can PM my email address..
Yes, I will share mine next week!
3. Should i get additional hangers
I got 2 more! Take them, so much easier that trying to get them after a crash - it's only a few euro.
4. I see that the recommended bottom bracket is BB92, but saw that installation of that takes quiet an effort / special tool, should i ask them to install it, or as I see in some of the posts, should i get something like this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5
IMO - Go Shimano crank with sram groupset if you want. I went full XT. If you're curious why bb92 and DUB is a bad idea, watch some of the Hambini Videos, essentially, the races are too thin and they're side loaded...
My ZTTO BB will arrive next week so I'll make a video of me fitting it. Only 2 spanners are needed.
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...Only 2 spanners are needed...
One is enough, holding one side by hand until the compression makes it stick.
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...So which is the recommended Bottom Bracket with X01 groupset...
If you put a DUB or 30mm spindle choose BSA.
Or as suggested by zorinena, à BB92, mixing a 24mm spindle with other components from SRAM.
It could be interesting if there is a big difference in weight between BSA shells + cups + alloy crank vs. BB92 + 24mm steel spindle crank.
The stiffness difference being probably a no issue for most of us.
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...Only 2 spanners are needed...
One is enough, holding one side by hand until the compression makes it stick.
oh really!! I took a second for 5 euro, wasn't sure!
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I have been reading this thread for quiet a few days and have gotten responses from Adam and have decided to go with a custom two tones with 936.. Had a few questions
This being my first Bike build have a few questions.. Want to keep the Bike budget below 3.5-4k USD
I spend around 3000Euro but in Ireland we have 23% VAT and I got done by customs (268euro duty plus VAT) when they seized my package. Plus i paid 220 ish for DHL shipping (5 days from china)
If you went with SLX and a cheaper RockShox reba/35 Gold, Alu rims, I think it could be done for 2k euro.
Thanks for the options, I will look into it.. wheels set i would like to be at carbon, not sure about the shock yet..
1. Carbonda has a 240S boost wheelset to go along with this, has anyone bought and / or has any feedback on it
I got these with shimano XT 12 speed hubs (cheaper than DTswiss and they're silent - I hateee noisey hubs I want to hear nature!) https://btlos.com/mountain-bike/asymmetric-all-mountain-enduro-carbon-fiber-mtb-wheelset-tubeless-compatible (700USD including shipping so cheaper than Light Bicycle because LB didn't have standard 29mm internal with asym as I wanted - only premium.
Actually I like the nose of the additional teeth, so I am planning to go with that.. am talking to light bicycle, but they are quoting me about 1100 shipped for the AM927's.. Not sure I want to spend that much.. Carbonzza, do you know how you got to that number, was it AM928's ?
2. Does any one have a spreadsheet with recommended components, some of you had created excel, can you send it over, I can PM my email address..
Yes, I will share mine next week!
That would be awesome..
4. I see that the recommended bottom bracket is BB92, but saw that installation of that takes quiet an effort / special tool, should i ask them to install it, or as I see in some of the posts, should i get something like this - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32896597801.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.2.749f4f0dI16PK5
IMO - Go Shimano crank with sram groupset if you want. I went full XT. If you're curious why bb92 and DUB is a bad idea, watch some of the Hambini Videos, essentially, the races are too thin and they're side loaded...
My ZTTO BB will arrive next week so I'll make a video of me fitting it. Only 2 spanners are needed.
Looking forward for your video..
I am planning to create a couple of spreadsheets to maybe help future bike makers make this easier..
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1. Carbonda has a 240S boost wheelset to go along with this, has anyone bought and / or has any feedback on it
They probably make them built by someone else, it is not their specialty.
ligthbicycle.com (http://ligthbicycle.com) or farsports.com (http://farsports.com) dedicate themselves to wheels and I would go with them instead.
2. Does any one have a spreadsheet with recommended components, some of you had created excel, can you send it over, I can PM my email address.
My very high end build spreadsheet (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1rbT28IhY802cn844UoSj960VWR9UTIYRHEOqxzus6Zc/edit?usp=sharing)
Here are some usual parts that may miss, delaying your maiden ride for a few days:
A front brake adapter for 180mm/200mm or 160mm/180mm rear disc, if it applies.
Shifting hose/cable/cable stops, brake hose/olive/barb may miss from the groupset you buy, so check with the vendor.
A bleeding kit and compatible brake oil, in case the reconnect of your rear brakes hose goes bad.
If you get a 240S hub with lockring, you may need to buy a ring for 15/20mm axles, as there is no room for the tool to tighten the disc.
Tubeless tape at the right width, and tubeless valves at the right height.
Having sealant too, Orange Regular is by far the best, efficient, easy to clean, doesn't stink.
3. Should i get additional hangers
I never had to use one, but I always order one spare that I take with me when traveling.
4. I see that the recommended bottom bracket is BB92
5. I am planning to go with SRAM X01 / GX eagle combination..
These are two quite contradictory statements ;)
If you plan to use a DUB spindle, BB92 is not a good choice.
The reason is a 41mm hole doesn't leave much room for a BB cup and bearings for a 29/30mm spindle.
Meaning you will change quite a lot of bearings along the life of your bike.
Worse, after a while, changing them so often is tiring, and you end up used to a poorly efficient and grinding drive train.
If you plan to use GXP spindles 24/22mm, BB92 will work.
Beware GXP has its woes too, as the left bearing is particularly stressed and die prematurely.
Carbonda will not install a BB for you, and the tool you need is a Shimano type BB tool you can find everywhere. If you don't have one, the ZTTO one is good.
And it is the same tool needed for 15/20mm brake lockrings.
this posts has some of the most important build info in. could we please somehow pin it to the top?
wow, just looked at your spreadsheet. Really a high class build! It would have cost around 11000€ if you would buy something at Scott.
Are you on mtb-news.de, so I can find some photos of you build?
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... wow, just looked at your spreadsheet. Really a high class build! It would have cost around 11000€ if you would buy something at Scott.
Are you on mtb-news.de, so I can find some photos of you build?
Yeah, lots of €€€ in the end.
I've had my covid/carpe diem moment when ordering some of the parts.
Be sure I'll post pictures when we build them !
This is the first time I buy components before receiving the frame, and unfortunately the first time I wait so much for it ::)
They are selling the 936 like hot cakes, and BSA seems strangely in less demand.
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... wow, just looked at your spreadsheet. Really a high class build! It would have cost around 11000€ if you would buy something at Scott.
Are you on mtb-news.de, so I can find some photos of you build?
Yeah, lots of €€€ in the end.
I've had my covid/carpe diem moment when ordering some of the parts.
Be sure I'll post pictures when we build them !
This is the first time I buy components before receiving the frame, and unfortunately the first time I wait so much for it ::)
They are selling the 936 like hot cakes, and BSA seems strangely in less demand.
oh ok, I thought you already done with the build.
So you ordered the 936 with BSA? didn't know that was possible.
I'll try to run it with 30mm spindle and fat Race Face steel bearings. Let's see how they will perfom over time.
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My build is complete and am sharing the weight and build list.
In summary, the weight came out to 11.75kgs that includes pedals and one King Cage stainless steel water bottle holder. Take those off and the bike comes in right at 25lbs. I spent just under $2800 and transferred the brakes, fork, wheels, tires, pedals, saddle and bottle cage from old bike. I also went take off 11spd Sram X0 group which was a steal.
I have since added the BRAD four and will add pics of the two bottles that fit quite nicely. I've done three rides, still working on the rebound settings and have order new brakes (Sram Level Ultimate) because the rear brake is damaged from an OTB event in June.
Tomorrow will be a 20 mile solo ride where i can focus on figuring out how to ride it fast...
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So you ordered the 936 with BSA? didn't know that was possible.
I'll try to run it with 30mm spindle and fat Race Face steel bearings. Let's see how they will perfom over time.
They had BB386( a 46mm hole instead of 41mm ) for the CFR505 for a long time, I thought it was the norm.
The bad surprise came when ordering, I didn't want that Achilles heel on my brand new MTB.
I was going to drop it, but Wing told me they had BSA, which allows to put cheap and big industrial bearings.
If you live in a dry area, maybe it is less of a problem.
But from my experience and from what I read on the web, it is better to stick to a 24mm spindle.
You can always change it later if there too much trouble.
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My build is complete and am sharing the weight and build list.
In summary, the weight came out to 11.75kgs that includes pedals and one King Cage stainless steel water bottle holder. Take those off and the bike comes in right at 25lbs. I spent just under $2800 and transferred the brakes, fork, wheels, tires, pedals, saddle and bottle cage from old bike. I also went take off 11spd Sram X0 group which was a steal.
I have since added the BRAD four and will add pics of the two bottles that fit quite nicely. I've done three rides, still working on the rebound settings and have order new brakes (Sram Level Ultimate) because the rear brake is damaged from an OTB event in June.
Tomorrow will be a 20 mile solo ride where i can focus on figuring out how to ride it fast...
Thank you for the detailed response.. Would it be possible to update the spreadsheet with the specific components you used ( like the fork and the shocks.etc )
Also where did you get the xo1 so cheap.. ( and is it AXS or non AXS ? )
Cheers,
J
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Thank you for the detailed response.. Would it be possible to update the spreadsheet with the specific components you used ( like the fork and the shocks.etc )
Also where did you get the xo1 so cheap.. ( and is it AXS or non AXS ? )
I'm going to do this my dude! Will try tonight or tomorrow - it's a task because it had to buy from like 8 retailers in total. I'm still waiting for parts urgh customs. My Shock arrived in Ireland last weekend with USPS from that ebay 100euro deal posted before .. and still hasn't moved.. will I ever recieve it? - who knows flip a coin ahaha ??? ??? ???
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IMPORTANT:
found a fitting, cheap, nice looking, light seatpost clamp on AliE.
It's such a great fit to the milled area on the seat tube, that I have to post it
https://a.aliexpress.com/_BPmwem
12€ for 11,3g
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The BRAD 4 can definitely fit two larger bottles. Here is a close up...
But, the top bottle was rattling on the top tube during the ride so I put it in my jersey pocket.
I have a bit of room to shift that BRAD down a bit, that might allow enough room for the top bottle to rest quietly. If not, i will run a slightly smaller bottle in the top position.
Got in a nice 20 mile ride and did the first 4 miles with the shock locked out. Bike is fast.
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Cool to see 2 water bottles fitting on the XL. I also found this bottle cage mount, may work out for smaller sizes.
https://www.on-lynecomponents.com/collections/the-holy-rail/products/holy-rail-dual-cage-kit
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Cool to see 2 water bottles fitting on the XL. I also found this bottle cage mount, may work out for smaller sizes.
https://www.on-lynecomponents.com/collections/the-holy-rail/products/holy-rail-dual-cage-kit
I think that one would fit the two large bottles better than the BRAD.
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Full build here.... bit supprised at the total... still way cheaper than most off the shelf bikes with the same spec. Especially with carbon wheels. :o :o
2,458.42Euro In parts alone. Honestly feel a bit sick looking at that. <- I Blame the person who made me add it all up! ahaha
What's the most annoying is a guy on ebay has the NS TR low model going for 3500GBP and I though I would be building mine for much less. The 268 VAT on the frame at customs was the killer here. My total including the frame was 3,612.74 Euro (23% VAT).
You can get the race version for 3.5k Euro from Wiggle or CRC https://www.wiggle.com/ns-bikes-synonym-race-2-suspension-bike-2020 - its a large reduction though :(
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Full build here.... bit supprised at the total... still way cheaper than most off the shelf bikes with the same spec. Especially with carbon wheels. :o :o
2,458.42Euro In parts alone. Honestly feel a bit sick looking at that. <- I Blame the person who made me add it all up! ahaha
What's the most annoying is a guy on ebay has the NS TR low model going for 3500GBP and I though I would be building mine for much less. The 268 VAT on the frame at customs was the killer here. My total including the frame was 3,612.74 Euro (23% VAT).
You can get the race version for 3.5k Euro from Wiggle or CRC https://www.wiggle.com/ns-bikes-synonym-race-2-suspension-bike-2020 - its a large reduction though :(
Do I understand you right, you payed the same amount for your build than an equal NS Syn build costs? That would be strange
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Full build here.... bit supprised at the total... still way cheaper than most off the shelf bikes with the same spec. Especially with carbon wheels. :o :o
2,458.42Euro In parts alone. Honestly feel a bit sick looking at that. <- I Blame the person who made me add it all up! ahaha
What's the most annoying is a guy on ebay has the NS TR low model going for 3500GBP and I though I would be building mine for much less. The 268 VAT on the frame at customs was the killer here. My total including the frame was 3,612.74 Euro (23% VAT).
You can get the race version for 3.5k Euro from Wiggle or CRC https://www.wiggle.com/ns-bikes-synonym-race-2-suspension-bike-2020 - its a large reduction though :(
Do I understand you right, you payed the same amount for your build than an equal NS Syn build costs? That would be strange
Well yes and no. At Wiggle/CRC for us Europeans:
The NS Bikes Synonym 2 is 3.5k (List Price €4,754.39 Save 26%), but I have better spec IMO and there is no large is stock.
The NS Bikes Synonym 1 is 4.6k (List Price €6,112.79 Save 24%) and would be more similar to my spec, no carbon wheels but does have carbon bars and cranks - you win some you loose some compared to my build.
NS Bikes Synonym Race 2 is 3.5k (List Price €4,641.19 Save 25%) and is the race version, they have L in stock but I didn't want 100mm Travel. You will not have a good time (IMO) in Ireland on the rocks with 100mm if you're trying to keep up with 130mm-140mm bikes.
These discounts were not on 1 month ago when I ordered. Plus alot of people never had their stuff seized by customs so i'm pretty unlucky.
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Re, derailleur hangers, the frame comes with one extra.
The packaging on my order was less than ideal and the hanger popped out of the box and took some damage in shipping. I would order 3-4 additional hangers.
Does anyone have a link to a hanger that works for this frame?
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Re, derailleur hangers, the frame comes with one extra.
The packaging on my order was less than ideal and the hanger popped out of the box and took some damage in shipping. I would order 3-4 additional hangers.
Does anyone have a link to a hanger that works for this frame?
Looks like this one: https://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hangers/thru-axle-hangers/derailleur-hanger-309.html
But I'd prob just contact Adam/Carbonda and order a few directly. Might take a bit longer, but should be a lot cheaper.
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Re, derailleur hangers, the frame comes with one extra.
The packaging on my order was less than ideal and the hanger popped out of the box and took some damage in shipping. I would order 3-4 additional hangers.
Does anyone have a link to a hanger that works for this frame?
Photos of damaged box and hanger poking out.
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...I would order 3-4 additional hangers.
Does anyone have a link to a hanger that works for this frame?
The picture are quite blurred. Is it just paint scratches or it is bent ?
Did you check the frame around that area for a crack ?
Carbonda can provide you with a hanger, the shipping is cheap for such small item.
Before I was buying 2 hangers for each frames I did build.
And have a collection now as none of the riders needed it.
By experience it is useless, one is enough.
Maybe two if you are particularly unlucky.
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The picture are quite blurred. Is it just paint scratches or it is bent ?
Did you check the frame around that area for a crack ?
Carbonda can provide you with a hanger, the shipping is cheap for such small item.
Before I was buying 2 hangers for each frames I did build.
And have a collection now as none of the riders needed it.
By experience it is useless, one is enough.
Maybe two if you are particularly unlucky.
Any further word on your BSA frame order?
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...I would order 3-4 additional hangers.
Does anyone have a link to a hanger that works for this frame?
The picture are quite blurred. Is it just paint scratches or it is bent ?
Did you check the frame around that area for a crack ?
Carbonda can provide you with a hanger, the shipping is cheap for such small item.
Before I was buying 2 hangers for each frames I did build.
And have a collection now as none of the riders needed it.
By experience it is useless, one is enough.
Maybe two if you are particularly unlucky.
If you mean from your experiences with gravel builds, I wouldn't compare those with XC riding where it's more likely to ruin a hanger
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...I would order 3-4 additional hangers.
Does anyone have a link to a hanger that works for this frame?
The picture are quite blurred. Is it just paint scratches or it is bent ?
Did you check the frame around that area for a crack ?
Carbonda can provide you with a hanger, the shipping is cheap for such small item.
Before I was buying 2 hangers for each frames I did build.
And have a collection now as none of the riders needed it.
By experience it is useless, one is enough.
Maybe two if you are particularly unlucky.
Chasing a shifting issue. Only the two middle cogs struggle to shift down the cassette, very sluggish like the chain isn't picking up the ramps. I have been monkeying with the barrel adjuster for a few days. The encyclopedia of bike issues says this is a text book bent derailleur hanger...
Will replace and find out.
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...I would order 3-4 additional hangers.
Does anyone have a link to a hanger that works for this frame?
The picture are quite blurred. Is it just paint scratches or it is bent ?
Did you check the frame around that area for a crack ?
Carbonda can provide you with a hanger, the shipping is cheap for such small item.
Before I was buying 2 hangers for each frames I did build.
And have a collection now as none of the riders needed it.
By experience it is useless, one is enough.
Maybe two if you are particularly unlucky.
Chasing a shifting issue. Only the two middle cogs struggle to shift down the cassette, very sluggish like the chain isn't picking up the ramps. I have been monkeying with the barrel adjuster for a few days. The encyclopedia of bike issues says this is a text book bent derailleur hanger...
Will replace and find out.
Even new hangers can be a bit out of spec and new 11/12 speed drivetrains really require a lot tighter tolerance on hanger straightness.
All home builders should invest in a hanger alignment tool, mine has paid for itself many times over already.
In fact I just had to straighten the hanger on my FM936 this past weekend after a spill and the shifting went to crap. It looked straight to the eye, but was off quite a bit.
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...Any further word on your BSA frame order?
No. Just they will hurry the factory up...
Did you ask them for one ? ;D
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...If you mean from your experiences with gravel builds, I wouldn't compare those with XC riding where it's more likely to ruin a hanger
Against all apparences, I've built more MTBs than other bikes ;)
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...All home builders should invest in a hanger alignment tool...
Meanwhile you can put an Hex5 key in the hanger screw.
And counter-bend the hanger, generally a little up and/or left.
Comparing its alignement with another bike with the same dérailleur.
Or look for web pictures, on how it generally looks.
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Hello All,
I finally received my FM936 frame this week after ordering it at the beginning of July. There were some negative, neutral and positive surprises:
Negative:
- The seatstay definitely hits the main frame at bottom out with Fox 165x42.5mm shock. There is only 1-2mm of clearance when shock is deflated but as usual that is not enough because the frame flexes in the real riding conditions. This was confirmed when test riding the bike for the first time. I fabricated an extra 1mm steel spacer under the bottom out o-ring and shim and that was enough to prevent this from happening. But I may fabricate another 1mm spacer just to be sure...
- The trunnion width on the frame was 56mm and 54mm on the shock. I had to fabricate 1mm spacers to either side to fit the shock correctly.
Neutral:
- I ordered the frame without any special requests but I was quite surprised that the frame had BSA bottom bracket. Luckily I had totally forgot to order a new PF92 BB (I transferred all the parts from my carbon hardtail with PF92) and I could find BSA BB even from shitty local bike shops (although only Deore level but that's good enough for the time being). Some would be quite happy to have BSA over PF92 but I have never had any problems with PF92.
Positive:
- The frame looks really good.
- The shipping was by train and to my surprise I didn't have to pay any taxes.
- The geometry and handling is really good (size M, my height 174cm). It feels like a new school enduro bike but is light and efficient.
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Negative:
- The seatstay definitely hits the main frame at bottom out with Fox 165x42.5mm shock. There is only 1-2mm of clearance when shock is deflated but as usual that is not enough because the frame flexes in the real riding conditions. This was confirmed when test riding the bike for the first time. I fabricated an extra 1mm steel spacer under the bottom out o-ring and shim and that was enough to prevent this from happening. But I may fabricate another 1mm spacer just to be sure...
- The trunnion width on the frame was 56mm and 54mm on the shock. I had to fabricate 1mm spacers to either side to fit the shock correctly.
Thanks for the info always good to hear. Any chance you could take a picture of your steel spacer? I'd be very curious how it looks so I can do the same if needed. Thanks.
Weird about the Trunnion width, I will fit mine today and see!
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Negative:
- The seatstay definitely hits the main frame at bottom out with Fox 165x42.5mm shock. There is only 1-2mm of clearance when shock is deflated but as usual that is not enough because the frame flexes in the real riding conditions. This was confirmed when test riding the bike for the first time. I fabricated an extra 1mm steel spacer under the bottom out o-ring and shim and that was enough to prevent this from happening. But I may fabricate another 1mm spacer just to be sure...
- The trunnion width on the frame was 56mm and 54mm on the shock. I had to fabricate 1mm spacers to either side to fit the shock correctly.
Thanks for the info always good to hear. Any chance you could take a picture of your steel spacer? I'd be very curious how it looks so I can do the same if needed. Thanks.
Weird about the Trunnion width, I will fit mine today and see!
The spacer is just a normal 1mm thick steel washer with an ~6mm ID and wide enough OD and I drilled it to 10mm ID. Then I cut it with an hacksaw from 1 side so I could bend it to be able to fit it on the shock shaft and then I just bent it back and closed the gap with pliers so it fits quite snugly on the 9mm shaft. It's not going anywhere since it's under the original bottom out shim. You just have to be careful not to scratch the shaft so it's a good idea to make all edges smooth. I had to do a similar procedure back in the day to a Fox DHX Air when the seatstay was hitting the main frame hard on my Mondraker even with the stock shock.
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The spacer is just a normal 1mm thick steel washer with an ~6mm ID and wide enough OD and I drilled it to 10mm ID. Then I cut it with an hacksaw from 1 side so I could bend it to be able to fit it on the shock shaft and then I just bent it back and closed the gap with pliers so it fits quite snugly on the 9mm shaft. It's not going anywhere since it's under the original bottom out shim. You just have to be careful not to scratch the shaft so it's a good idea to make all edges smooth. I had to do a similar procedure back in the day to a Fox DHX Air when the seatstay was hitting the main frame hard on my Mondraker even with the stock shock.
Nice one! I'll try that before I try nylon. Thanks a million! would love to see a pic of the full build! :D :D
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The spacer is just a normal 1mm thick steel washer with an ~6mm ID and wide enough OD and I drilled it to 10mm ID. Then I cut it with an hacksaw from 1 side so I could bend it to be able to fit it on the shock shaft and then I just bent it back and closed the gap with pliers so it fits quite snugly on the 9mm shaft. It's not going anywhere since it's under the original bottom out shim. You just have to be careful not to scratch the shaft so it's a good idea to make all edges smooth. I had to do a similar procedure back in the day to a Fox DHX Air when the seatstay was hitting the main frame hard on my Mondraker even with the stock shock.
Hum... I'll guess I'll understand this better seeing it for real.
Shock shaft, and bottom out shim are alien to me.
For the BSA/PF92 story, I'm always for pressfit, except this time as the DUB spindle I have already is too big.
We've ordered 3 BSA beginning of July too. Damn! They've sent you one of ours by mistake ;)
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It seems something scratched your frame and the bolt too, probably just paint.
Can you check with no pressure in your shock if you can take full travel without contact issue between rear and seattube?
This is the clearance with 42.5mm shock
(https://i.ibb.co/s2NcSMX/IMG-20191217-194730.jpg)
I seriously don't understand how people make the frame flex so much to fill this gap?
Even if this thing was possible, the energy of the impact will be very low because it's first dissipated in the shock and then in the frame flex.
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It seems something scratched your frame and the bolt too, probably just paint.
Can you check with no pressure in your shock if you can take full travel without contact issue between rear and seattube?
This is the clearance with 42.5mm shock
(https://i.ibb.co/s2NcSMX/IMG-20191217-194730.jpg)
I seriously don't understand how people make the frame flex so much to fill this gap?
Even if this thing was possible, the energy of the impact will be very low because it's first dissipated in the shock and then in the frame flex.
The gap looks much larger on your frame so maybe there is some variance in the tolerances of these frames. It didn't require much force at all to make the seatstay to hit the frame: with the shock deflated and weight on the seat just a little nudge was enough for contact to happen. The same was happening when riding the bike with the shock pressurized: just bouncing with your weight back was enough to make audible clunk. The force is much greater in real riding conditions so I'm sure that the seatstay would have hit the main frame very hard if I haven't reduced the travel.
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(https://i.imgur.com/UAfqVfv.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/8UDGzG9.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/OSXxdqg.jpg?1)
'Finished' mine for now. Had a great first ride. Everythings worked perfectecly as inteded, only had to get used to the geo. Handles great ones you get a hang of it.
I made the wheels myself but it took me two attempts regarding spoke lengths for the straight pull hubs.... bummer but they ride great in the end. ca. 1500 grams total.
I used Slapper Tape for a chainguide (only mounted in the second picture) and i can really recommend that stuff. Very flexible solution.
I use a 165x42,5mm shock and no problems so far. Frame is a L.
I might need a 60mm stem - bike feels shorter than expected so im interested as to see what it does to the handling.
Im running 170mm cranks with 25% sag and no strikes so far. (4 rides in... )
I have a BSA BB and the window to help route the Dropper cable is very small so it was a mayor pain in ass. Got it in the end though. I did use a foam liner which makes the friction higher i.e more difficult.
Haven't weighed the bike yet but frame was to spec.
Last pic is clearance of 2,35" tires on i29mm rims and a 32T Oval chainring.
Overall it feels like a GREAT purchase. :D
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So I have been compiling the excel for a few builds.. Just 2 for now.. will add more.. as I build mine.( this does not include mine yet ) . If anyone would like edit access to this to add their build, please let me know..
Here is the https://bit.ly/356ZHfZ
(https://bit.ly/356ZHfZ) for the ones I have been able to do
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Last pic is clearance of 2,35" tires on i29mm rims and a 32T Oval chainring.
Looks SO good!! Congrats!! Have you got a link to the oval rings? What dropper did you go with! Thanks :)
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...only had to get used to the geo. Handles great ones you get a hang of it...
What is so different compared to your previous bike ?
I made the wheels myself but it took me two attempts regarding spoke lengths for the straight pull hubs.... bummer but they ride great in the end. ca. 1500 grams total.
Congrats! It is a great skill to have. You'll see how easy it will be now, to replace a spoke or true a wheel.
...I have a BSA BB...
Yet another BSA, that is comforting ;)
Last pic is clearance of 2,35" tires on i29mm rims and a 32T Oval chainring.
Overall it feels like a GREAT purchase. :D
I love these tires, they roll fast, and are grippy in the mud.
Nice to see you're happy from your build!
@theirishrider, my bet it is a Garbaruk chainring
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...I would order 3-4 additional hangers.
Does anyone have a link to a hanger that works for this frame?
Chasing a shifting issue. Only the two middle cogs struggle to shift down the cassette, very sluggish like the chain isn't picking up the ramps. I have been monkeying with the barrel adjuster for a few days. The encyclopedia of bike issues says this is a text book bent derailleur hanger...
Will replace and find out.
Even new hangers can be a bit out of spec and new 11/12 speed drivetrains really require a lot tighter tolerance on hanger straightness.
All home builders should invest in a hanger alignment tool, mine has paid for itself many times over already.
In fact I just had to straighten the hanger on my FM936 this past weekend after a spill and the shifting went to crap. It looked straight to the eye, but was off quite a bit.
Ordered one. Thanks.
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(https://i.imgur.com/UAfqVfv.jpg?1)
Haven't weighed the bike yet but frame was to spec.
Looks like a very light build. Wonder how much you did spend on components.
Why you did take size L? Your seatpost length looks enormous!
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Haven't weighed the bike yet but frame was to spec.
Looks like a very light build. Wonder how much you did spend on components.
Why you did take size L? Your seatpost length looks enormous!
iye yes, must be at least 3.5k euro since it's got the same drive but a better fork than my build.
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Just fitted my Shimano XT brakes with 180mm adapters. Installing the short bolts without the bracket is tight goodness! Can't even get a Hex key in line with the bolt without rubbing against the frame. Installing the longer bolts was a pain, had to use a rounded edge key at an angle.
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Looks SO good!! Congrats!! Have you got a link to the oval rings? What dropper did you go with! Thanks :)
Thank you! I like the look a lot too. Great looking frame.
Chainring is indeed Garbaruk - https://r2-bike.com/GARBARUK-Chainring-Round-Direct-Mount-1-speed-narrow-wide-Shimano-M7100-M8100-black-32-Teeth
Dropper is a OneUp v2 210mm. Works great and does give that all important confidence on the steeeps.
...only had to get used to the geo. Handles great ones you get a hang of it...
What is so different compared to your previous bike ?
I come from road cycling and cyclocross so a MTB feels significantly different. Big volume tires, long wheelbase, slack front end and geo that 'changes' in corners is something different. :)
I have several more rides on it now and it is very confidence inspiring. You have to think a little further ahead because of the wheelbase when you are threading the needle through the trees but it is so smooth and efficient over rooty terrain.
Im gonna get a slightly longer stem (40mm now, will probably try a 60mm with a little drop) and slide the seat back 10mm. Should i have gone for the XL?.... maybe. Hard to say since i dont know if the wheelsbase would feel to long.
I dont feel awkward on the bike but its probably not far from the limit.
Looks like a very light build. Wonder how much you did spend on components.
Why you did take size L? Your seatpost length looks enormous!
Bike is weighed now - 11.8kg - not that light but OK considering big tires, almost 600g seatpost and non-SL frame. Im happy! :)
I have not calculated the price to the Euro but 3,5k is probably not far off (good guess theirishrider...). Might be a bit over unfortunately...
I took an L because my Torso is short compared to my legs AND my local woods are quite tight and twisty. I was a bit worried about the overall length of the XL. I like the low handlebar on my L so an XL would have needed negativ rise stem and flatbar to get the same position. Its all compromises! ::)
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Just need to check, what is the actual chainstay lenght?
Is it 440 or 438?
I think they could easily made it 435.
Perhaps a future enhancement that is could shorten chainstay and swingarm brace/linkage for a 45mm shock.
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Hey guys, just found out some info on hangers and some other stuff after a pretty major crash :)
Hangers need to be ordered through Adam at carbonda. They are 5usd ea w/ 15usd shipping.
Next, if you're like me and have had to remove the rear wheel a few times you may notice the depth of the allen key isn't very deep and causes your hex head tools to not fit in there very deep. I started stripping the axel and went ahead and bought myself a new one. I ordered this axel and it fit in there flawlessly. Super high quality fit and finish on that thing. Worth putting on your shred sled!
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/hub-related/products/wolf-axle-for-12mm-rear-thru-axle?variant=13658986053667
178 x 1.5
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Looks like a very light build. Wonder how much you did spend on components.
Why you did take size L? Your seatpost length looks enormous!
I took an L because my Torso is short compared to my legs AND my local woods are quite tight and twisty. I was a bit worried about the overall length of the XL. I like the low handlebar on my L so an XL would have needed negativ rise stem and flatbar to get the same position. Its all compromises! ::)
I understand. I'm 6'2" and have ordered a L for similar reasons. I'm going to start with 50mm stem and can run 60mm if needed. When descending it should fit really well. I did want that agility and nimbleness when pedaling in tight/twisty areas. At my height I'm usually just between sizes so will likely have a big seat-post showing (have the same OneUp 210mm dropper). Frame should be showing up later this month!
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Just need to check, what is the actual chainstay lenght?
Is it 440 or 438?
I think they could easily made it 435.
Perhaps a future enhancement that is could shorten chainstay and swingarm brace/linkage for a 45mm shock.
440
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Thanks. Just as i thought. Not a bad thing, plenty stable.
No. I dont own one, juat waiting if there be a v2.
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I think it's nice and balanced geo for ups and downs, with 120mm fork. Just a bottom bracket may be too low even with 120 fork.
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Wonder if anyone tried with a 130mm?
Even with sta of 75.5 or so it still be alright
And yes. I think it is a balanced chassis.
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I think it's nice and balanced geo for ups and downs, with 120mm fork. Just a bottom bracket may be too low even with 120 fork.
I have noticed more pedal strikes on things I have never even consider a risk on my other bikes. Could just be I’m seated and pedaling more on rough sections.
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The BB is definitely low on this bike. Mine is 12.25" with a 100mm fork and 2.25 tires.
I'm running 170mm cranks and still get more strikes than normal. I may swap the 120mm fork over from another bike just to see where that puts the BB.
ETA: A quick measurement and it looks like the 120mm swap would bring the BB up a bit over 1/2" or around 14mm.
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Talking abouit BBs, has anyone got an suggestions for BB protection? Beyond mastik tape. Also anyone have any suggestions about how to make a little piece of alu or steel for the chain ring protection on the chainstay next to the chain ring since mine was missing? :(
My BTLOS wheels shipped this week so I'm looking forward to a ride!
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Talking abouit BBs, has anyone got an suggestions for BB protection? Beyond mastik tape. Also anyone have any suggestions about how to make a little piece of alu or steel for the chain ring protection on the chainstay next to the chain ring since mine was missing? :(
My BTLOS wheels shipped this week so I'm looking forward to a ride!
I made a downtube protector out of a Kydex sheet that I molded with a heat gun and used double-sided tape to affix it. You could do the same by cutting Kydex to shape for chainstay protection at the BB.
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Hey guys, just found out some info on hangers and some other stuff after a pretty major crash :)
Hangers need to be ordered through Adam at carbonda. They are 5usd ea w/ 15usd shipping.
Next, if you're like me and have had to remove the rear wheel a few times you may notice the depth of the allen key isn't very deep and causes your hex head tools to not fit in there very deep. I started stripping the axel and went ahead and bought myself a new one. I ordered this axel and it fit in there flawlessly. Super high quality fit and finish on that thing. Worth putting on your shred sled!
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/hub-related/products/wolf-axle-for-12mm-rear-thru-axle?variant=13658986053667
178 x 1.5
On my frame the rear axle has an allen key socket which is at least 5-6mm deep. enough to tighten it up to 10Nm. But there is an o-ring insode the socket maybe 2mm from the face surface. This might seem like a stop for the allen key, but you just have to psh a little harder and the allen key will through. The o-ring is for better securing of the allen key while tightening.
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Talking abouit BBs, has anyone got an suggestions for BB protection? Beyond mastik tape. Also anyone have any suggestions about how to make a little piece of alu or steel for the chain ring protection on the chainstay next to the chain ring since mine was missing? :(
My BTLOS wheels shipped this week so I'm looking forward to a ride!
I made a downtube protector out of a Kydex sheet that I molded with a heat gun and used double-sided tape to affix it. You could do the same by cutting Kydex to shape for chainstay protection at the BB.
I tried heating kydex in the oven then forming around my lightcarbon frame. It looked nothing like the one I saw on pinkbike. It seems like you have to get it pretty hot to mold it. Did you heat it in place on the frame? I thought about doing that but am worried about damaging my frame.
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https://www.competitivecyclist.com/bike-armor-double-down-downtube-shield
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In the process of installing some new brakes and noticed how marred the rear brake hose was from installation. So, before installing the new rear brake I filed down the entry and exit points to reduce the sharp edges.
You have to be very careful to avoid marred/scratched housing.
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I made a downtube protector out of a Kydex sheet that I molded with a heat gun and used double-sided tape to affix it. You could do the same by cutting Kydex to shape for chainstay protection at the BB.
I tried heating kydex in the oven then forming around my lightcarbon frame. It looked nothing like the one I saw on pinkbike. It seems like you have to get it pretty hot to mold it. Did you heat it in place on the frame? I thought about doing that but am worried about damaging my frame.
I can't speak for painted frames, but it won't be hot enough to cause any damage to the carbon.
Cut Kydex to shape. Heat in the oven or with a heat gun to the point of having the kydex sheet completely flexible. Put some leather or thick work gloves on. Bike upside down. As quickly as you can, mold the sheet to the contour of the downtube. Keep holding it to the downtube until it cools enough to hold shape. Apply double-sided tape and affix to bike.
It won't look perfect, but it does the job. You may have good luck with some factory downtube protectors if they're roughtly the right dimensions.
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In the process of installing some new brakes and noticed how marred the rear brake hose was from installation. So, before installing the new rear brake I filed down the entry and exit points to reduce the sharp edges.
You have to be very careful to avoid marred/scratched housing.
My hardtail had this same issue. I didn't end up filing anything down, but if I every run a new line, I will. In my case, the tight area around the BB shell is what knicked up my lines. It wasn't bad, but a bit of an annoyance.
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Yeah, the dropper cable is worst. Should have started running it from the head tube to seat tube but for some reason started at the seat tube.
Same w rear brake. I keep the caliper attached and remove the lever so have to start from the back.
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I can't speak for painted frames, but it won't be hot enough to cause any damage to the carbon.
Cut Kydex to shape. Heat in the oven or with a heat gun to the point of having the kydex sheet completely flexible. Put some leather or thick work gloves on. Bike upside down. As quickly as you can, mold the sheet to the contour of the downtube. Keep holding it to the downtube until it cools enough to hold shape. Apply double-sided tape and affix to bike.
It won't look perfect, but it does the job. You may have good luck with some factory downtube protectors if they're roughtly the right dimensions.
be carefull here. CFRP doesn't like high temperatures above 120°C. Material coming out of an oven might be way more hot.
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Anyone tried how the the clearance looks with a non boost chainring ?
If so, with how many theet ?
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Anyone tried how the the clearance looks with a non boost chainring ?
If so, with how many theet ?
With a Shimano XT M8000 non-boost crank and 34T round chainring there is plenty of clearance.
The same setup with a 34T oval chainring, not enough chainstay clearance.
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Anyone tried how the the clearance looks with a non boost chainring ?
If so, with how many theet ?
Clearance with 6mm offset non boost oval 32t.
(https://sun9-43.userapi.com/tmeIo6-hm4u230gkluOFp7b9OZVrYhWxgCz0iA/4YzQFBuNIkE.jpg)
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Thank you both, an oval 32 will be fine then.
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Maybe someone here has tried specialized epic evo and this frame ? How they are in comparison?
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re: shock: is a 165 x 38 same as 6.5 x 1.5...?
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Ordered a medium custom painted, standard weight, frame about a month ago and delivered today. Upon initial inspection, the frame quality is very good, and the paint job is amazing. Shipping surprised me, as it shipped on 9/22 and showed up on my doorstep TWO days later. China to Michigan, USA!
I have to now wait for some small parts to start my build up and transfer of parts from my current frame. I also have a 165 x 40 RS SIDLuxe to try if I want to go with a 100mm travel set up. Will be interesting to switch between the two and see which I like better (I'll have to get a 100mm fork though).
(https://i.imgur.com/WRdljeV.jpg)
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Looks very nice. The speed on the Threaded BB frame has improved and they must have some in stock.
You will need to have the bottom bracket removed to thread the dropper housing through the frame.
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Does this naked carbon interface on the inside of the chainstay with the rear wheel endcap look right to you?
Other carbon frames I’ve had all had metal plates on the inside of the chainstay that bolted through to the outside, similar to the driveside.
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Does this naked carbon interface on the inside of the chainstay with the rear wheel endcap look right to you?
Other carbon frames I’ve had all had metal plates on the inside of the chainstay that bolted through to the outside, similar to the driveside.
That's absolutely fine!
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Does this naked carbon interface on the inside of the chainstay with the rear wheel endcap look right to you?
I love how buying direct generate some doubts and fears over quality.
While buying a branded bike does not ;)
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...Ordered a medium custom painted, standard weight, frame about a month ago...
Damn ! Carbonda do not like me it seems.
They still did not deliver mine(along two others) ordered beginning of July ::)
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Does this naked carbon interface on the inside of the chainstay with the rear wheel endcap look right to you?
Other carbon frames I’ve had all had metal plates on the inside of the chainstay that bolted through to the outside, similar to the drive side.
It's fine because the Thru-Axle takes the load and transfers it to the frame through the walls of the hole! The shoulder is just for seating the wheel.
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Damn ! Carbonda do not like me it seems.
They still did not deliver mine(along with two others) ordered the beginning of July :)
Did you ask them what's the problem?
Weirdddd, Mine took around 3 weeks from order to from PayPal to ship!
Finally, my BTLOS wheels arrived (1 month lead time but I had to get them to order special hubs from their supplier) but I'm in another country so I look forward to getting home to build and try the bike!!
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I swapped out the 100m 32sc (44 offset) for a 120mm 34sc (51 offset) and my initial thoughts are it rides better with the longer fork, a bit more predictable and a bit more comfortable as well.
Unfortunately, after my last ride I noticed a very small amount of play in the non-drive side lower pivot. Pivot bolt is tight, but still just a small amount of side to side play now. I have almost 500 miles on the frame. :-(
I'm guessing I need a thicker washer/spacer? Anyone else had to remedy this?
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So for the past several rides I've taken off the Fox DPS 164x42.5 and fitted a RockShox Deluxe RLR 165x37.5mm (which is a remote shock, but I don't have a remote for it yet). At the same sag (by percentage of stroke), the RLR feels more taut under pedaling and rides higher in the travel, but easier to bottom out on bigger hits (but it doesn't feel like a harsh bottom out on small to medium sized drops, though). Still feels plenty plush on rough trails.
My ideal setup now would be to run the RLR with a SID 120 fork both on a Full Sprint type remote. Alas, the Suntour Aion I currently have is so smooth and that I just don't want to spend the extra cash on the SID. I have a 2017 Cannondale Scalpel in my quiver with a Full Sprint lockout setup, so maybe I'll just leave the 936 as it is without lockouts.
Also, Adam @ Carbonda finally shipped me my replacement linkage. Will post an updage once I recieve it and check if they actually rectified the issue which is imprecise tolerances at the upper shock span.
(https://i.imgur.com/jKpAiS0.jpg)
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So for the past several rides I've taken off the Fox DPS 164x42.5 and fitted a RockShox Deluxe RLR 165x37.5mm (which is a remote shock, but I don't have a remote for it yet). At the same sag (by percentage of stroke), the RLR feels more taut under pedaling and rides higher in the travel, but easier to bottom out on bigger hits (but it doesn't feel like a harsh bottom out on small to medium sized drops, though). Still feels plenty plush on rough trails.
My ideal setup now would be to run the RLR with a SID 120 fork both on a Full Sprint type remote. Alas, the Suntour Aion I currently have is so smooth and that I just don't want to spend the extra cash on the SID. I have a 2017 Cannondale Scalpel in my quiver with a Full Sprint lockout setup, so maybe I'll just leave the 936 as it is without lockouts.
Also, Adam @ Carbonda finally shipped me my replacement linkage. Will post an updage once I recieve it and check if they actually rectified the issue which is imprecise tolerances at the upper shock span.
(https://i.imgur.com/jKpAiS0.jpg)
I too would like a lock out and will get the kit for the SidLuxe Ultimate prior to a potential 2021 Breck Epic.
Is the upper shock mount the one in question? My frame’s upper shock mount wasn’t quite square. It was wide at the back and narrow at the front. I had to bring the shock eye and RWC bearing kit from the rear and slide into position. Then attach the trunnion bolts.
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I took out the rear derailleur hanger and I saw that there is only 4-5mm of carbon fiber around the big hole of the metal insert. I'm pretty astonished to see such thin area at this position. Sure the force from drops propagates upwards to the chunkier part, but still it looks fragile on a XC frame.
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I took out the rear derailleur hanger and I saw that there is only 4-5mm of carbon fibre around the big hole of the metal insert. I'm pretty astonished to see such thin area at this position. Sure the force from drops propagates upwards to the chunkier part, but still, it looks fragile on a XC frame.
It' thin sure but don't know if it's too thin. The specialized epic has the same:
https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/weight-weenies/1156933d1504972135-new-build-2018-s-works-epic-hardtail-di2-20170907_193723.jpg
https://bikerumor.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Specialized-Epic-hardtail-HT-2020-xc-race-carbon-Brain-fork-actual-weight-17.jpg
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Just to remind you that in the good old days of QR on the back that small 4-5mm part was in fact fully open (no material at all) and as long as your QR was tightened properly there was no problem.
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Update on the lower pivot movement:
Msg'd Adam and he said to cut the pivot axle down to 80mm. I pulled it apart and measured it at 82.5mm, so I filed it down to 81mm, cleaned everything up and reassembled and the play is completely gone now. I think I'll leave it at 81mm for now.
Also checked out the bearings in the process and they are still very smooth.
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Grease only with a press fit bottom bracket. Any locker of any kind will cause headaches down the road. Guaranteed.
I'd bet the creaking is coming from the stem, handlebar or seatpost
Nooo :-). Loctite 641 (medium strength, for press fits) with activator spray. You can still remove it OK, but have a secure fit.
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Hello
Thanks to everyone contributing to this forum. In the process of building a 60-year present for my wife, who needed a better bike after going from 0-3000km in a year. I have learned a lot from you. Frame is obvious, but I also bougth wheels, handlebars and seatpost from Carbonda. Fork and rearshock is DTSwiss ODL. Brakes SRAM LevelT and drivetrain mix of Shimano SLX/XT. Sunrace 11-50 casette. Paintjob local custom.
Big thanks
Johan
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...Paintjob local custom...
Wow! What a present!
Do you have some closer pictures of the paintjob?
It looks very nice.
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I think it speaks volumes to the quality of some of these frames that someone will go through the trouble to both get a custom paint job AND put pretty nice components on them. I too would love to see some close ups/detail shots of that paint job. looks funky!
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Here is a closer picture of the paint.
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and a few more
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Hello, how do you communicate with Carbonda?
Their website does not work today, I wrote a letter to info@carbonda on Sunday and did not receive an answer, but today I tried to write to sales1@carbonda and adam@carbonda by email, both letters returned with an error "554 Reject by content spam"
I really want to buy this frame, but I have difficulties in communication :)
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@joro1 Unreal paint job! hope your wife likes it!
New article on the Synonym https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/ns-synonym-tr-2
Do other notice the following on the Carbonda?
Yes, the balanced riding position slows everything down so you have more time to think, but this just lets you focus more on how ineffective the rear suspension is. Not only does it lack the sensitivity needed to track terrain, the rebound damping is super-slow even when set to the fully open position.
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Hello, how do you communicate with Carbonda?
Their website does not work today, I wrote a letter to info@carbonda on Sunday and did not receive an answer, but today I tried to write to sales1@carbonda and adam@carbonda by email, both letters returned with an error "554 Reject by content spam"
I really want to buy this frame, but I have difficulties in communication :)
I've had the best luck using their skype link. Of course, I have to wait a bit for replies because of the time difference.
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@joro1 Unreal paint job! hope your wife likes it!
New article on the Synonym https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/ns-synonym-tr-2
Do other notice the following on the Carbonda?
Yes, the balanced riding position slows everything down so you have more time to think, but this just lets you focus more on how ineffective the rear suspension is. Not only does it lack the sensitivity needed to track terrain, the rebound damping is super-slow even when set to the fully open position.
That's something I'd be interested in as well!
There has been another review on bikeperfect.com (https://www.bikeperfect.com/reviews/ns-synonym-tr-1-review) and they say the frame is quite flexy and not very stiff, is that the superlight version or are they using the normal version for the TR model?
Planning to get a new bike for next year and this one made it onto my shortlist. I've come to the conclusion that the size XL would be the right choice for me (asked NS what they would suggest for 187cm and 89cm inseam and that's what they told me).
One of the remaining questions for me is rear travel, how much travel does this bike really have with a 42.5mm stroke shock? Carbonda say it's 100mm with a 40mm shock, NS get 120 out of 42.5mm stroke length, is it all down to the different rear triangle? Is the FM936 somewhere in between?
Thanks for your help!
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The FM936 isn't flexy IMO. It's a 4lb XC frame so it's also not super stiff either. It's on par with my Turner Czar as far as flex is concerned - front and rear.
I'm running a Fox 165x40 for 100mm travel and the suspension action is definitely XC oriented as well. It is not "plush" at all, but it does take the edge off of the bumps and feels quite efficient even in the fully open mode on the shock (which is where I run mine full time). To be fair I could probably do a better job of tuning the rear feel.
As info: I'm probably close to 170lbs geared up and on a medium in the superlight layup.
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Damn it will be nice to have better shifting. The hanger was way out of whack!
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I just walked back in from checking my hanger after banging the der on the last ride. ;-)
That cyclospirit looks exactly like the park hanger tool.
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Do other notice the following on the Carbonda?
Yes, the balanced riding position slows everything down so you have more time to think, but this just lets you focus more on how ineffective the rear suspension is. Not only does it lack the sensitivity needed to track terrain, the rebound damping is super-slow even when set to the fully open position.
No. Using Fox DPS SV 42.5 shock with 150-160 psi, rebound 5-6 clicks from open, nice sensitive suspension. Remember it's only about 100mm suspension, not 160mm :)
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I also received my frame this week with a stunning (IMO) paint job. Minor paint scratch at the chain stay unfortunately but I'll live with it.
I will be building it with a RS SID Select RL 120mm fork and RS Deluxe Ultimate RCT 165x40 shock.
Carbon wheels from Speedsafe and mix of XT/SLX components. Should hopefully be able to hit ~11kg if my calculations are correct.
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... with a stunning (IMO) paint job...
Nice! Is it candy red?
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I will be building it with a RS SID Select RL 120mm fork and RS Deluxe Ultimate RCT 165x40 shock.
Carbon wheels from Speedsafe and mix of XT/SLX components. Should hopefully be able to hit ~11kg if my calculations are correct.
Niceee!! Looks great, love the candy finish! I've got the SID select with the remote twist grip lock out - its looks great on the bars and not really noticable. I reccomend it if you haven't purchased it yet.
I'm not sure how much my built will weight with XT but I'm hoping the same. Put some pics up of the wheels! :D
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Nice! Is it candy red?
Kind of, I asked for a deep metallic red finish and Wing showed me a road bike they painted with a color called campari red :)
Do you have any good tips on frame protection btw? I'm leaning towards some sort of transparent film to show off the color but still protect it somewhat.
Niceee!! Looks great, love the candy finish! I've got the SID select with the remote twist grip lock out - its looks great on the bars and not really noticable. I reccomend it if you haven't purchased it yet.
I'm not sure how much my built will weight with XT but I'm hoping the same. Put some pics up of the wheels! :D
Thanks for the tip! All components are however already purchased and waiting for delivery. Managed to find a MY2020 SID that i got cheap(ish).
I'll def update when the wheels arrive!
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I also received my frame this week with a stunning (IMO) paint job. Minor paint scratch at the chain stay unfortunately but I'll live with it.
I will be building it with a RS SID Select RL 120mm fork and RS Deluxe Ultimate RCT 165x40 shock.
Carbon wheels from Speedsafe and mix of XT/SLX components. Should hopefully be able to hit ~11kg if my calculations are correct.
Nice color!
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Do you have any good tips on frame protection btw? I'm leaning towards some sort of transparent film to show off the color but still protect it somewhat.
I went for this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seems ok for general wear, I'd still use a specific chainstay protector though.
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I went for this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000TPC7HU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Seems ok for general wear, I'd still use a specific chainstay protector though.
Thanks for the reference.
I use a 3M one for now, even for the chainstay.
But ordered the ISC HD to try.
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China is on national holidays right now. so be patient when asking for a reply.
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Thanks for the reference.
I use a 3M one for now, even for the chainstay.
But ordered the ISC HD to try.
I couldn't find a good supplier for the 3m in europe, most of the stuff on amazon or ebay looks fake as hell, or pricey. :(
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I couldn't find a good supplier for the 3m in europe, most of the stuff on amazon or ebay looks fake as hell, or pricey. :(
you have to look for helicopter tape. It's a thick foil wrappable with heat. Mostyl made out of PUR.
tesa also has that tape, altjough I don't know if it's easy to get. tesa® # is 52994
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I don't know how it is in Ireland/Europe, but I just use the 3m/scotchguard stuff from the auto shop if I'm not doing ridewrap. It's a little bit pricier than the stuff online but very convenient to get and high quality. Seems like something auto shops would have over there too, seeing as Canada isn't the only place with auto enthusiasts. It isn't cheap but it stays quality for YEARS whereas most of the cheaper stuff gets hard/shitty over time.
ALSO, I have added the Rocky Mountain downtube protectors to other bikes and they are pretty malleable and fit pretty well if you're looking for something a bit more substantial than 3m.
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ALSO, I have added the Rocky Mountain downtube protectors to other bikes and they are pretty malleable and fit pretty well if you're looking for something a bit more substantial than 3m.
Interesting thanks.
Maybe I'll use this on the chainstay:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-reactor-carbon-chain-stay-protector-290/rp-prod197217
or
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/vitus-chainstay-protector-2020/rp-prod200114
And this on the downtube:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-dissent-down-tube-protector/rp-prod197213
They seem like with a little bit of trimming they'll fit pretty good. Not a bad price.
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If you're gunna trim that rubber stuff, a heat gun and an extremely sharp hobby knife goes a long way when it comes to getting this stuff to fit. It may be tough ordering them online, in my experience not all rubber compounds are the same. If you tried to put a Trek or Norco moulded downtube armor on one of these bikes for example, you'd be shit out of luck because they're very specific. So if you see a friend with a nukeproof and you can feel if the compound is soft or not, maybe give it a try. I'd be leery of the heavily shaped chainstay protector too though.
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Would this be easy to scan and 3d print?
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Would this be easy to scan and 3d print?
Yeah i'd say so if you have the correct filament!
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If you're gunna trim that rubber stuff, a heat gun and an extremely sharp hobby knife goes a long way when it comes to getting this stuff to fit. It may be tough ordering them online, in my experience not all rubber compounds are the same. If you tried to put a Trek or Norco moulded downtube armor on one of these bikes for example, you'd be shit out of luck because they're very specific. So if you see a friend with a nukeproof and you can feel if the compound is soft or not, maybe give it a try. I'd be leery of the heavily shaped chainstay protector too though.
Thanks for the advice! much appreciated!
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Hi guys!
I live in Belgium and the company I work for sells car wraps (and stuff like that) . They're very expensive but I can get them almost for free. If anyone needs a specific color, just leave me a message and I can look for it and send it to you. We have every color of 3m in stock and some other brands to.
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I swapped out the 100m 32sc (44 offset) for a 120mm 34sc (51 offset) and my initial thoughts are it rides better with the longer fork, a bit more predictable and a bit more comfortable as well.
Unfortunately, after my last ride I noticed a very small amount of play in the non-drive side lower pivot. Pivot bolt is tight, but still just a small amount of side to side play now. I have almost 500 miles on the frame. :-(
I'm guessing I need a thicker washer/spacer? Anyone else had to remedy this?
Sorry for the late response...but like I already mentioned earlier inthis tread, I had the same issue on the driver side. After traying different spacer I received a new rear triangle which sorted the issue. i think it had to do with to big tollerances of the pivor points; the holes are just to big so the bolts have play and wear out.
After some mails with Adam it was sorted with a new rear...now 4000km later it is still going strong!
Still loving the bike
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Guys,
I have ordered a medium frame. I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation on what size seat-post should I order. I am 5’10. On AliExpress they come in 350 and 400mm
Also,
I am guessing when I go for the dropper post What is max length I should go for ?
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Guys,
I have ordered a medium frame. I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation on what size seat-post should I order. I am 5’10. On AliExpress they come in 350 and 400mm
Also,
I am guessing when I go for the dropper post I should go for 180mm correct ?
Unless you have super long legs I doubt you'll be able to use a 180 dropper.
My inseam is about 31" and went with a 125 divine to be safe, I probably could have gone 150 but the next size up in the divine line is a 160. The issue is the seat tube, you can only insert the post about 8.5" so I doubt you could slam a 180 in there.
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I ordered the Carbonda headset with the frame. Using the upper bearing cup there is a rubber seal breaching the gap between cap and frame. The bearing sticks out the frame for around 2mm and the upper cone is also pretty thick.
But now I want to use another upper bearing cover from the Syncros Fraser. That one doesn't have such a seal, so I have about 2mm gap between headset cover and frame.
How did you solve that? Grinding down the upper cone? Or using a rubber o-ring around the upper bearing? Or should I get another headset which doesn't have such a thick upper cone?
Know that problem from the Carbonda Thread in the riding gravel forum.
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Tell me, did anyone install the 165x38 shock? if yes, can you show pictures of how it is installed?
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Just received my frame with custom paint job. Super stoked to build it up. Like everyone else has said, I opened up all the pivots and greased everything. Overall quality seems good. Will post a final build pic and what parts I used.
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Just received my frame with custom paint job. Super stoked to build it up. Like everyone else has said, I opened up all the pivots and greased everything. Overall quality seems good. Will post a final build pic and what parts I used.
Nice color ;)
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Guys,
I have ordered a medium frame. I was wondering if anyone had a recommendation on what size seat-post should I order. I am 5’10. On AliExpress they come in 350 and 400mm
Also,
I am guessing when I go for the dropper post What is max length I should go for ?
You need to know max insert length of your frame size. Ad then go to dropper sizing tables (they all different) and measure your seat height, and do some calculations.
I fitted one up 180mm in L size, fits perfectly, it's only about 4mm of gap.
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How has the 130mm travel fork worked out on this frame?
This looks like the same manufacturer who made my M06 flex-stay frame, a very good frame.
As usual, they can't figure out the geo or what size shock it takes. You guys will have to use the tape measure and experimentation approach. I ended up with a 130mm fork on a frame spec'd for a 100mm lol, as well as an offset shock bushing.
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Hello fellow FM936 enthusiasts,
I've been trying to place a frame order at Adam from Carbonda for weeks now, but no response back since our earlier contact. Are there more people who experience that communication with Carbonda is slow and difficult? Or am I just impatient?
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Hello fellow FM936 enthusiasts,
I've been trying to place a frame order at Adam from Carbonda for weeks now, but no response back since our earlier contact. Are there more people who experience that communication with Carbonda is slow and difficult? Or am I just impatient?
Apparently he just got back from vacation. From another thread:
[...] Adam just came black from 2wks holyday. [...]
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Hello fellow FM936 enthusiasts,
I've been trying to place a frame order at Adam from Carbonda for weeks now, but no response back since our earlier contact. Are there more people who experience that communication with Carbonda is slow and difficult? Or am I just impatient?
Use skype, this is the fastest method.
Adam answers me almost immediately, sometimes the next day.
Last Thursday I ordered the frame, now I'm waiting for the shipment.
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... communication with Carbonda ...
Or send an email to Wing at sales1@carbonda.com, always fast(well... be aware of Chinese holidays) and very good english
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Unless you have super long legs I doubt you'll be able to use a 180 dropper.
My inseam is about 31" and went with a 125 divine to be safe, I probably could have gone 150 but the next size up in the divine line is a 160. The issue is the seat tube, you can only insert the post about 8.5" so I doubt you could slam a 180 in there.
My question was more in regards to what One up should i buy.. based on the details from carbonda
Based on size from carbonda - http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/98.html. We have maximum 180mm for the insertion..
https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/oneup-dropper-post-selector-v2 - I just dont know what to put for the max length, thus dont knwo what to buy.. so was asking for advice.
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My question was more in regards to what One up should i buy.. based on the details from carbonda
Based on size from carbonda - http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/98.html. We have maximum 180mm for the insertion..
https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/oneup-dropper-post-selector-v2 - I just dont know what to put for the max length, thus dont knwo what to buy.. so was asking for advice.
What's your BB to saddle rail measurement for your MTB bikes? You need that number as well as the min/max insertion number of the frame to calculate that dropper number.
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My question was more in regards to what One up should i buy.. based on the details from carbonda
Based on size from carbonda - http://www.carbonda.com/mountain/full-suspension/98.html. We have maximum 180mm for the insertion..
https://can.oneupcomponents.com/pages/oneup-dropper-post-selector-v2 - I just dont know what to put for the max length, thus dont knwo what to buy.. so was asking for advice.
I'm running a 150mm OneUp (shimmed to 140mm now) on a size large frame. Zero issue with post length.
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I'm running a 150mm OneUp (shimmed to 140mm now) on a size large frame. Zero issue with post length.
I have the XL frame and the 210 OneUp dropper. I had to use both reducing shims for the post to work. I am 6’1.7788”
Bike works.
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A week ago I ordered a frame. It cost me 650 $ for the normal weight version, plus 12$ for headset and 12$ rear axle.
DHL services cost $ 285 (delivery from China to Ukraine), I decided that it was very expensive for me. I had to use the services of another company, for only $ 10 the frame was sent to a warehouse in China, and then the Ukrainian company will send it to me.
Adam was very polite and nice, I chatted with him on Skype.
Hopefully everything will be fine with the frame and I will start assembling the new bike soon.
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Just wanted to come back and give an update.
Riding this bike for months now. Carbonda is obviosly the real deal, frame and paint are working perfectly. I've had some crashes and close calls. Always my fault, always the frame is undamaged.
This bike is extremely capable on the downhill with the 120mm fork but at the cost of a little bit of uphill performance. Specifically, when riding up steep techical hills the longer fork keeps your weight away from the ground and makes it easier to fail backwards. The larger fork also limits the front manuveurability while climbing. This is only something to consider if you are trying to hop up large rocks on steep climbs.
My build is a trail oriented and the bike can handle whatever I throw at. The long wheel base makes it a little bit tricky to do big jump lines, but the lightweight (under 26lbs) make it easy to throw around.
Overall, amazing for the money. The frame is totally worth whatever high-end components you were thinking about splurging on.
Regrets: wish I went 203mm in the front brake instead of 180 on both.
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Love the NS rims on the knockoff NS. That's pretty awesome lol.
What size is your frame?
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Love the NS rims on the knockoff NS. That's pretty awesome lol.
What size is your frame?
Thanks! I love the wheels too, couldnt find anything as light, stiff and metal. Got a great deal for them too. Also I did confirm that the SL front triangle is legit, just the rear triangle/linkage is knock off.
The frame is a medium and I am 178cm
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Ah, I figured a medium. My XL trail hardtail is barely under 26 lbs and it has some seriously light stuff.
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Just wanted to come back and give an update.
Riding this bike for months now. Carbonda is obviosly the real deal, frame and paint are working perfectly. I've had some crashes and close calls. Always my fault, always the frame is undamaged.
This bike is extremely capable on the downhill with the 120mm fork but at the cost of a little bit of uphill performance. Specifically, when riding up steep techical hills the longer fork keeps your weight away from the ground and makes it easier to fail backwards. The larger fork also limits the front manuveurability while climbing. This is only something to consider if you are trying to hop up large rocks on steep climbs.
My build is a trail oriented and the bike can handle whatever I throw at. The long wheel base makes it a little bit tricky to do big jump lines, but the lightweight (under 26lbs) make it easy to throw around.
Overall, amazing for the money. The frame is totally worth whatever high-end components you were thinking about splurging on.
Regrets: wish I went 203mm in the front brake instead of 180 on both.
fox shock from giant anthem was bought on ebay? how does it fit this frame?
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Love the NS rims on the knockoff NS. That's pretty awesome lol.
What size is your frame?
To be fair, I'm pretty sure Carbonda made the frame first then NS spec'd the front triangle for their Synonym line. Stevens spec'd the whole frame as is for their Jura and at least two other companies I've seen.
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fox shock from giant anthem was bought on ebay? how does it fit this frame?
Yes it is, it is working perfectly. Looking back at the thread it looks like one person was not so lucky. I deflated it all the way and bounced on it while someone watched the gap behind the seat. It was close but it wouldnt budge no matter how hard I bounced on the empty shock. As long as you order the SL version, I bet it will be fine. If you look back in the thread you will notice most of the quality control issues were not with the SL version.
I think the digressive tune is perfect. That said, this bike made me realize how much softer a linear tune feels compared to a digressive tune. With only
a 100+mm of travel in the back, a linear tune doesnt really make sense.
For the knockoff comment. This frames front traingle is the real deal. Unbranded, sure. Knockoff, no
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Yes it is, it is working perfectly. Looking back at the thread it looks like one person was not so lucky. I deflated it all the way and bounced on it while someone watched the gap behind the seat. It was close but it wouldnt budge no matter how hard I bounced on the empty shock. As long as you order the SL version, I bet it will be fine. If you look back in the thread you will notice most of the quality control issues were not with the SL version.
I think the digressive tune is perfect. That said, this bike made me realize how much softer a linear tune feels compared to a digressive tune. With only
a 100+mm of travel in the back, a linear tune doesnt really make sense.
For the knockoff comment. This frames front traingle is the real deal. Unbranded, sure. Knockoff, no
I have the same shock on my Standard size L and I have 1cm clearance at full compression. I'll get a caliper and measure it with a pic and upload it.
What pressure are you running in the shock? I'm 70kg and at around 250 PSI.
Thanks :)
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Tell me, did anyone install the 165x38 shock? if yes, can you show pictures of how it is installed?
Yes, here is my medium frame with 165x37.5mm fitted:
(https://i.imgur.com/jKpAiS0.jpg)
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For the knockoff comment. This frames front traingle is the real deal. Unbranded, sure. Knockoff, no
Aah I don't mean anything by it, using the words interchangeably though you are correct. I still find it amusing.
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Took the bike out for the first time today!
Holy shit! ;D ;D ;D Handles way better than I expected. It rips on the down hills, the 120mm at the front feels amazing with that slack head angle. I found the rear was really hugging the rooty hills whilst not sucking my power. I intend to use this bike in the National Points Series in Ireland this year so I'm buzzing for that. My build weighs 11kg so it's it's so throwable when things get steep.
Will post some pics from the trails tomorrow!
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Got the replacement linkage from Carbonda (recall my issue was shock mount span 0.5mm too wide and hairline crack on the linkage). Tolerances are better, but not by much (thick paint immediately flaked off the inside of the shock mount points as I pushed the shock hardware in, resulting in a looser interface, but not as bad as the old linkage.
(https://i.imgur.com/gZZEFTT.jpg)
Old linkage on the left (shinier because I have resprayed it after sanding to inspect crack), new on the right.
(https://i.imgur.com/g4zObXj.jpg)
Interestingly, the new linkage does not have retaining circlips on the bearings.
(https://i.imgur.com/tiTPY3D.jpg)
Fitted my needle bearing hardware kit
(https://i.imgur.com/9xNkTFT.jpg)
Everything seems good without play after torquing everything up. We'll see how it fares after a few rides.
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Took the bike out for the first time today!
Holy shit! ;D ;D ;D Handles way better than I expected. It rips on the down hills, the 120mm at the front feels amazing with that slack head angle. I found the rear was really hugging the rooty hills whilst not sucking my power. I intend to use this bike in the National Points Series in Ireland this year so I'm buzzing for that. My build weighs 11kg so it's it's so throwable when things get steep.
Will post some pics from the trails tomorrow!
How did it climb? Is the long wheelbase and low BB really noticeable?
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How did it climb? Is the long wheelbase and low BB really noticeable?
Long wheel base yes, but in a good way! Also mine is a L so if you want a shorter wheel base take M. I have a 44mm offset fork so I dont know how much of a difference that makes.
Low bb didnt notice at all with 170 cranks! I was going down deep railway sleeper stairs on the trail and didnt notice a too low feeling.
I'm going to a trail center tomorrow so will report more.
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I have the same shock on my Standard size L and I have 1cm clearance at full compression. I'll get a caliper and measure it with a pic and upload it.
What pressure are you running in the shock? I'm 70kg and at around 250 PSI.
Thanks :)
Reposting a comment I made earlier in the thread when asked about my shock setup, Please note with all my gear and water, I am closer to 80kg and my frame is a medium so copying my settings is a bad idea. I put a picture of my gap below. Here is the comment from earlier:
I counted 10 clicks from full rebound toward softer, At just under 200psi. I bet the shock behaves differently on a larger frame.
For the newer people like me, when you pump up the rear shock make sure to equalize the chambers by compressing to 25% about 20 times. Then check the sag and PSI again. Also, this shock tune is: 2018, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion Evol LV, Giant, Anthem 27.5 2, 165, 42.5, 0.8 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CML, YS 2272/YS 2272 Logo
That 0.8 spacer means bottoming out the rear shock is really tough. Thats why I go for such low rebound, with semi-high pressure. Of course, I dont really know what I am doing. :P
Long wheel base yes, but in a good way! Also mine is a L so if you want a shorter wheel base take M. I have a 44mm offset fork so I dont know how much of a difference that makes.
Low bb didnt notice at all with 170 cranks! I was going down deep railway sleeper stairs on the trail and didnt notice a too low feeling.
I'm going to a trail center tomorrow so will report more.
I also dont think the low BB is very noticeable. Not a big deal, has its advantages.
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Low bb didnt notice at all with 170 cranks! I was going down deep railway sleeper stairs on the trail and didnt notice a too low feeling
I also don't think the low BB is very noticeable. Not a big deal, has its advantages.
The low BB is the thing that stands out the most to me out of the geometry of this frame. I guess it all depends on the type of trails you ride. On my home trails (natural desert trails, loads of rocks and off-camber technical singletrack...nothing is groomed), pedal strikes are far more than the two other bikes I ride most frequently (2017 Cannondale Scalpel and a Titus Fireline with a 120mm fork...neither is known for a particularly high BB) and that's with 170mm crank arms. Love this frame, but I dare not run the 936 with a 100mm fork where I ride seeing how low it is with 120mm.
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The low BB is the thing that stands out the most to me out of the geometry of this frame. I guess it all depends on the type of trails you ride. On my home trails (natural desert trails, loads of rocks and off-camber technical singletrack...nothing is groomed), pedal strikes are far more than the two other bikes I ride most frequently (2017 Cannondale Scalpel and a Titus Fireline with a 120mm fork...neither is known for a particularly high BB) and that's with 170mm crank arms. Love this frame, but I dare not run the 936 with a 100mm fork where I ride seeing how low it is with 120mm.
Agreed on the BB here. I originally had a 100mm stepcast on mine and the BB was ridiculously low and I was having strikes every ride even with 170mm cranks - hard strikes.
Swapped the fork to a 120mm stepcast just because of the strikes and that cleared up 90% of those for me. As an added bonus I feel like the bike actually steers and handles better now as well. As info: 100mm was 44 offset and the 120mm is 51 offset.
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Low BB has some benefits in flat corners )
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Yes, here is my medium frame with 165x37.5mm fitted:
(https://i.imgur.com/jKpAiS0.jpg)
the stroke of its rod can be upgraded to 165 * 42.5
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Hi All,
Long awaited is my completed build photo. I took the bike out yesterday for the first time on proper trails. It rides like a dream. The suspenion is very efficient on the climbs and supple on the small stuff without bob. It feels like a magic carpet ride. My 2 friends said they've never ridden anything like it before - in as good way. I was hitting 500m long rock gardens, 20cm deep mud dh tracks, flowy jumps no problem.
The Rockshox SID Select 120mm 44mm is fantastic. It eats up the chatter and roots but gets very progressive towards the end of the stoke never bottoming out.
Shimano XT 12s is fantastic, cant fault it, shifts under power so so well. XT brakes are fantastic and cannot fault them. The BTLOS wheels are a dream, carbon wheels are like riding on train tracks, not a jot of flex. 11kg helps the climbing performance no doubt!
You can see my excel for the build in my previous comments! The only thing you need is a external lockring for the front disc due to the 15mm axle.
for 3.5k euro I think to replicate the Geo and spec of my build, the only things on the market are the NS or specialized epic Evo. For a similar spec both are 5.5k-6.5k euro.
Basically, you can replace the frame and the whole drive train OR buy a second set of carbon wheels, and still be less than the Specialized Epic Evo. In my opinion that's better than any warranty!!!
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Hey folks, while I patiently wait for some response to my request for quote from Carbonda.. can somebody confirm what type of BB the FM936 is? Says BB92, but is this pressfit or BSA/threaded?
Is there an option for either?
Thanks,
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Hey folks, while I patiently wait for some response to my request for quote from Carbonda.. can somebody confirm what type of BB the FM936 is? Says BB92, but is this pressfit or BSA/threaded?
Is there an option for either?
Thanks,
some people have been able to get threaded, most have not. I got pressfit BB92 and a ZTTO thread together bb and its working well.
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...can somebody confirm what type of BB the FM936 is? Says BB92, but is this pressfit or BSA/threaded?
BB92 is pressfit.
BSA(73mm) is threaded.
You can request one or the other when ordering.
I did order a SL BSA in July, not common, and still waiting ::) Hopefully I should get it in December.
Wing told that they are slowly moving to provide BSA as a default, instead of BB92.
Seeing all these happy people here makes me quite impatient.
Yes you... TheIrishRider 8)
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BB92 is pressfit.
BSA(73mm) is threaded.
You can request one or the other when ordering.
I did order a SL BSA in July, not common, and still waiting ::) Hopefully I should get it in December.
Wing told that they are slowly moving to provide BSA as a default, instead of BB92.
Seeing all these happy people here makes me quite impatient.
Yes you... TheIrishRider 8)
I ordered BSA and they sent me BB92 :)))
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Seeing all these happy people here makes me quite impatient.
Yes you... TheIrishRider 8)
I'll be thinking of you :P
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After a lost package and a bunch of delivery delays I've finally been able to start building ;D While pulling through the rear brake hose and derailleur housing I had a look at the NS bike and noticed that they guide their housing below the rear shock lower bolt like in the red line in the picture. Ive think most of fm936 builds guide the housing above the mounting bolt (like the green line) but would there be any issues doing it like on the NS? it looks like it would be more protected but at the same time more rubbing against the frame.
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I would try the red line, it ends neater.
If you insure the hose does not touch the frame, there shouldn't be any rubbing, or maybe put some tape if needed.
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Maybe anyone here have tried this carbonda bike and specialized epic evo? I think I could justify spending ~4k € on a bike and not sure which is better.
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After a lost package and a bunch of delivery delays I've finally been able to start building ;D While pulling through the rear brake hose and derailleur housing I had a look at the NS bike and noticed that they guide their housing below the rear shock lower bolt like in the red line in the picture. Ive think most of fm936 builds guide the housing above the mounting bolt (like the green line) but would there be any issues doing it like on the NS? it looks like it would be more protected but at the same time more rubbing against the frame.
I liked the way it looked better how NS runs the cables under, but in the end I went over because that sharp bend caused extra drag on the derailleur cable I could feel. No issue with that for the brake line, but it would look funny with one under and one over.
If I was using AXS though I'd run the brake cable under for the cleaner look. :)
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I would try the red line, it ends neater.
If you insure the hose does not touch the frame, there shouldn't be any rubbing, or maybe put some tape if needed.
I considered the under but went with the straight line due to what was mentioned about the rear derailleur. The RD housing does rub on the shock body by going that route. I have a Jagwire rubber protector in that spot.
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I considered the under but went with the straight line due to what was mentioned about the rear derailleur. The RD housing does rub on the shock body by going that route. I have a Jagwire rubber protector in that spot.
I have the same, Jagwire rubber buffer. I will do a patch of racers tape too i think :)
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After a lost package and a bunch of delivery delays I've finally been able to start building ;D While pulling through the rear brake hose and derailleur housing I had a look at the NS bike and noticed that they guide their housing below the rear shock lower bolt like in the red line in the picture. Ive think most of fm936 builds guide the housing above the mounting bolt (like the green line) but would there be any issues doing it like on the NS? it looks like it would be more protected but at the same time more rubbing against the frame.
I stated with routing over the pivot (green) but noticed cable rub on the shock. I've swapped to under (red) and think it looks much cleaner and have not noticed any drag in shifting or frame rubbing. I think under also gives a better angle for the cables exiting the port on the downtube.
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I have to say I do like the lines of this frame. The ride is fantastic, too.
(https://i.imgur.com/E5NS26s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W30Nz8I.jpg)
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I have to say I do like the lines of this frame. The ride is fantastic, too.
Looks great dude! I love it too. Where are you riding though? The moon? Mars? ;D ;D ;D
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Looks great dude! I love it too. Where are you riding though? The moon? Mars? ;D ;D ;D
Egypt :). This is a hilly limestone desert just outside Cairo. Our terrain looks a bit like an alien landscape.
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Finished the build! Too bad winter has come a bit early and won't be able to ride till the spring now. Build specs:
- Size Large Frame; custom painted "Chrome Green"
- Shimano XT 12spd
- Shimano XT brakes
- E*thirteen XCX iW28 rims
- Bontrager XR4/XR3 tires
- RaceFace Next R cranks (170mm)
- RaceFace Next Handlebar (760mm)
- RaceFace Stem - 50mm
- OneUp Dropper (210mm)
- Giant Contact Seat
- Fox 34 SC 120mm, 44mm offset
- Fox DPS Float 42.5mm (the one everyone was buying on ebay)
The bathroom scale test (me with bike, me without bike) says 27lbs, but I sure hope that's wrong cause my spec sheet says it should be around 25lbs based on listed weights + 1lb buffer. Will have to get to a bike shop to properly weigh it. I spent about $5200 CAD on this, but did have some access to pro deals for RaceFace and Fox gear. Bought a bunch of the Shimano stuff on AliExpress a few months back before the prices started climbing.
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Finished the build! Too bad winter has come a bit early and won't be able to ride till the spring now. Build specs:
- Size Large Frame; custom painted "Chrome Green"
- Shimano XT 12spd
- Shimano XT brakes
- E*thirteen XCX iW28 rims
- Bontrager XR4/XR3 tires
- RaceFace Next R cranks (170mm)
- RaceFace Next Handlebar (760mm)
- RaceFace Stem - 50mm
- OneUp Dropper (210mm)
- Giant Contact Seat
- Fox 34 SC 120mm, 44mm offset
- Fox DPS Float 42.5mm (the one everyone was buying on ebay)
The bathroom scale test (me with bike, me without bike) says 27lbs, but I sure hope that's wrong cause my spec sheet says it should be around 25lbs based on listed weights + 1lb buffer. Will have to get to a bike shop to properly weigh it. I spent about $5200 CAD on this, but did have some access to pro deals for RaceFace and Fox gear. Bought a bunch of the Shimano stuff on AliExpress a few months back before the prices started climbing.
looks great!
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That Fox DPS is cheaper on e-bay than Fox Academy? No way!
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That Fox DPS is cheaper on e-bay than Fox Academy? No way!
Also was issue with supply. Many items on the pro site were out of stock. I couldn't get a shock even if I wanted, but if it was in stock it still would've been cheaper to go with the ebay DPS.
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Hey guys,
just received the first pictures of my FM936. I wanted the colour like the new Orbea Oiz.
I think the made a really good paintjob.
Now it is time for waiting, till the frame is here.
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Hey guys,
just received the first pictures of my FM936. I wanted the colour like the new Orbea Oiz.
I think the made a really good paintjob.
Now it is time for waiting, till the frame is here.
Wow, stunning, is this transparent blue ?
I just requested few weeks ago to change my initial paint idea to this.
Not sure from the picture, did they add sequins ?
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Hey,
I told Adam, that I only want a dark blue clear coat, like the Orbea.
I think they added some sequins, for me this no problem. ( you can see it at sec 15.)
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I hope to receive my medium FM936 with BSA BB within a few weeks so the parts party can begin! As a cheap dutchie, I'll be sourcing ' like new' parts mostly. It will be my do it all bike, so a comprimise between reliability, costs and weight.
What I already have:
Syncros Revelstoke wheelset, like new. Bit on the heavy side (1850gr) but 30mm internal width rims
Fox Performance rear shock EVOL 165-42.5 from Fleabay (from an Anthem X Pro)
What I am still looking for, with some questions:
Dropper, what stroke is possible in a Medium frame? I'll probably go for a OneUp
Fork, hesitating between a 120mm Fox 34 performance elite or the new RS SID Select. What offset is recommended for the fork if I go for 120mm?
SRAM GX, X01 mix with Truvativ Descendant Carbon DUB cranks What crank length is recommended?
SDG Bel Air V3 seat, personal favorite
Shimano SLX 4 pot brakes
Don't know yet about the cockpit, will come to that later (740-780mm bar, 50-70mm stem)
Any other tips, tricks? I'll work my way through 63 pages comments as well of course ;)
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Hey,
I told Adam, that I only want a dark blue clear coat, like the Orbea.
I think they added some sequins, for me this no problem. ( you can see it at sec 15.)
Thank you for sharing the video !
I didn't see the Orbea, but a friend have a Trek road bike, with a transparent red.
I felt in love with it, but thought blue would be original, well... no ;)
We'll have the same color !
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Ah, nice choice! Candy clears over carbon are very vogue right now, even more so than fades. I'm sure that's going to look really nice once it's all done up.
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I hope to receive my medium FM936 with BSA BB within a few weeks so the parts party can begin! As a cheap dutchie, I'll be sourcing ' like new' parts mostly. It will be my do it all bike, so a comprimise between reliability, costs and weight.
What I already have:
Syncros Revelstoke wheelset, like new. Bit on the heavy side (1850gr) but 30mm internal width rims
Fox Performance rear shock EVOL 165-42.5 from Fleabay (from an Anthem X Pro)
What I am still looking for, with some questions:
Dropper, what stroke is possible in a Medium frame? I'll probably go for a OneUp -
Fork, hesitating between a 120mm Fox 34 performance elite or the new RS SID Select. What offset is recommended for the fork if I go for 120mm?
SRAM GX, X01 mix with Truvativ Descendant Carbon DUB cranks What crank length is recommended?
SDG Bel Air V3 seat, personal favorite
Shimano SLX 4 pot brakes
Don't know yet about the cockpit, will come to that later (740-780mm bar, 50-70mm stem)
Any other tips, tricks? I'll work my way through 63 pages comments as well of course ;)
Dropper I believe for the medium, the consensus was 150 mm or 100 mm ( it only accepts 180 mm insert from one of the previous posts )
Fork - i believe it is 44mm offset
I am getting all all SRAM GX with 175mm and the new carbon crank ( GX )
Ive ordered the SRAM 8120 brakes.. ( should be here next week )
Still waiting on the frame..
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I have to say I do like the lines of this frame. The ride is fantastic, too.
(https://i.imgur.com/E5NS26s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/W30Nz8I.jpg)
I don't know if I've asked you specifically. I've asked all over and lost track. What are you using for a downtube protector?
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Dropper I believe for the medium, the consensus was 150 mm or 100 mm ( it only accepts 180 mm insert from one of the previous posts )
Fork - i believe it is 44mm offset
I am getting all all SRAM GX with 175mm and the new carbon crank ( GX )
Ive ordered the SRAM 8120 brakes.. ( should be here next week )
Still waiting on the frame..
Thanks! I have been reading quite a lot on the offset, 51mm seems common on 120 forks that replace 100mm forks to decrease the trail a bit caused by the longer stroke and slacker head angle. However, to increase slow speed uphill maneuverability, progressive brands move the wheel towards the frame again by reducing the offset to 44. I think I'll look for a 44mm 120 fork. ::)
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I'd probably recommend 170mm cranks at the longest. You really don't lose anything and the BB on this bike is on the low side. If you already had a nice set of 175's fair enough but 170 is probably more appropriate.
Also, I remember a few weeks ago we were discussing chainstay protection with this bike.
I think you could do a good looking custom set with this stuff if you took your time! https://www.ridewrap.ca/products/chainstay-armor/
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Thanks! I have been reading quite a lot on the offset, 51mm seems common on 120 forks that replace 100mm forks to decrease the trail a bit caused by the longer stroke and slacker head angle. However, to increase slow speed uphill maneuverability, progressive brands move the wheel towards the frame again by reducing the offset to 44. I think I'll look for a 44mm 120 fork. ::)
I found it helpful to take design cues from NS Bikes, who use this frame on the Synonym. They use 44mm offset on 120mm fork, as well as 170mm crank length (175mm on XL being the exception).
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I found it helpful to take design cues from NS Bikes, who use this frame on the Synonym. They use 44mm offset on 120mm fork, as well as 170mm crank length (175mm on XL being the exception).
44mm on Rockshox sid 120mm feels anmazing. I can't compare it to anything but i don't feel any twitchyness and it's as agile as needed. Short stem of 60mm feels great.
I'm 185cm and running 175mm on my Giant TCR and 170mm on this and I will say that I can't notice the difference! 170 will reduce a few rock strikes before. Your saddle position would make more of a difference. As explained by Peak Torque https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0SpYdxg1UY
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Shimano SLX 4 pot brakes
I reccomend 2 pot Shimano XT/SLX. I think you'd struggle to get to the point where you need 4 pot on this bike considering the type of riding it's capable of. With the Ice tech rotors they stay cooler than other brakes too. 2 pot saves some weight too. At a maximum, 4 pot front, 2 pot back. I was going to do 4 pot too but with 180mm rotors, it's not really needed to put 4 pot.
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I'd probably recommend 170mm cranks at the longest. You really don't lose anything and the BB on this bike is on the low side. If you already had a nice set of 175's fair enough but 170 is probably more appropriate.
From all the comments it looks like I'll go for a 170mm crank.
I found it helpful to take design cues from NS Bikes, who use this frame on the Synonym. They use 44mm offset on 120mm fork, as well as 170mm crank length (175mm on XL being the exception).
Good one, I read that somewhere elso in this topic, but I forgot. Very helpful indeed!
44mm on Rockshox sid 120mm feels anmazing. I can't compare it to anything but i don't feel any twitchyness and it's as agile as needed. Short stem of 60mm feels great.
I'm 185cm and running 175mm on my Giant TCR and 170mm on this and I will say that I can't notice the difference! 170 will reduce a few rock strikes before. Your saddle position would make more of a difference. As explained by Peak Torque
Just ordered a 120mm Sid Select 2021, 120mm, 35mm stanchions, 44mm offset. Thanks for your input!
I reccomend 2 pot Shimano XT/SLX. I think you'd struggle to get to the point where you need 4 pot on this bike considering the type of riding it's capable of. With the Ice tech rotors they stay cooler than other brakes too. 2 pot saves some weight too. At a maximum, 4 pot front, 2 pot back. I was going to do 4 pot too but with 180mm rotors, it's not really needed to put 4 pot.
It does safe some weight and costs. www.bike-discount.de offers a set with the 4pot front and 2pot rear for 188 EUR. Might go for that, unless I find an as-new set with the 2pots. Thanks!
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I reccomend 2 pot Shimano XT/SLX. I think you'd struggle to get to the point where you need 4 pot on this bike considering the type of riding it's capable of. With the Ice tech rotors they stay cooler than other brakes too. 2 pot saves some weight too. At a maximum, 4 pot front, 2 pot back. I was going to do 4 pot too but with 180mm rotors, it's not really needed to put 4 pot.
Don't assume how fat/not fat we are :P
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From all the comments it looks like I'll go for a 170mm crank.
Just ordered a 120mm Sid Select 2021, 120mm, 35mm stanchions, 44mm offset. Thanks for your input!
That's the one i have, you'll love it! I got the 35mm one, not the SL one. It feels amazing on the rough stuff. On a 130mm Reba my hands were numb on the the local trail, with the SID I didn't have any of that. Stiff too!
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Don't assume how fat/not fat we are :P
Haha, No fat shaming here! only gram counting ;)
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I don't know if I've asked you specifically. I've asked all over and lost track. What are you using for a downtube protector?
A strip cut out of EVA floor mat tile. Shaped with an exacto knife to be flat on the bottom and zigzag on the top. Affixed to the top of the chainstay with small pieces of double-sided tape and wrapped with a single layer of self-amalgamating tape.
Edit: Oops, brain fart there, sorry! I somehow read your question about the chainstay protector. The downtube protector is a piece of Kydex that I heated with a heat gun, then shaped right on the frame with thick work gloves gloves on, then affixed with double-sided tape to the frame.
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Hi to all. After waiting 2 months I got what I wanted.
Yesterday received his frame, XL size. The parcel was delivered damaged (
Ordered painting services. Well done, but the paint layer is very small. Paint peels off easily.
https://youtu.be/sDyC9oFtPJw
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...but the paint layer is very small. Paint peels off easily.
Was the headtube near the part of the box that was hit ? Hope it is only a scratch.
Even if they hate it, I always open the box in front of the delivery man if it is damaged.
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Hi to all. After waiting 2 months I got what I wanted.
Yesterday received his frame, XL size. The parcel was delivered damaged (
Ordered painting services. Well done, but the paint layer is very small. Paint peels off easily.
sorry to hear. Looks cosmetic though thankfully. Mine came with a thick foam 'boot' around the headtube area.
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mine was without him. bottom bracket protection only.
chipped paint and 0.5mm carbon
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Oh that's terrible. Padding looks good. Must have been a major drop
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Hello,
I am 178cm tall, 65kg, i just ordered a L size, super light, with paint.
I have several questions :
1) do I have to buy separately mounting hardware ?
2) I see that almost everybody mounted a 42,5mm shock. Wing told me not to do that. Is it risky or not at all ? Can somebody summarize it please ?
I am interested in rockshox SID shock and DVO topaz (50% heavier...)
Thank you all
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I am 178cm tall, 65kg, i just ordered a L size, super light, with paint.
I'm 178cm but with long legs, and found the M to by my size. What paint did you choose ?
2) I see that almost everybody mounted a 42,5mm shock. Wing told me not to do that. Is it risky or not at all ? Can somebody
Carbonda say no, but as you said, many here have a 42.5 and even confirmed long term usage without any issue.
Only one person I think had a problem with that.
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Hello,
I am 178cm tall, 65kg, i just ordered a L size, super light, with paint.
I have several questions :
1) do I have to buy separately mounting hardware ?
2) I see that almost everybody mounted a 42,5mm shock. Wing told me not to do that. Is it risky or not at all ? Can somebody summarize it please ?
I am interested in rockshox SID shock and DVO topaz (50% heavier...)
Thank you all
1) Only for upper mount. (axle come with frame)
2) Almost ride a seazon with 42.5 FOX SV shock, no problem.
I think there is some missaligments in frame construction process and Carbonda can't guarantee that all frames will safely work with 42.5 shock.
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I'm 178cm but with long legs, and found the M to by my size. What paint did you choose ?
Carbonda say no, but as you said, many here have a 42.5 and even confirmed long term usage without any issue.
Only one person I think had a problem with that.
Same : long legs (84cm). But i am used to long reach and short stem (35/40mm).
The aim is to ride 120mm front (490mm reach) and sometimes 140mm front (the geometry would be approximately like the Norco Optic)
I will probably go for a 40. The last 2.5 of travel are not that vertical so no big difference on riding I guess.
I chose the black with gold dots.
1) Only for upper mount. (axle come with frame)
Do you know what i have to buy ? Does it depend on the shock or is it standard ? 75% chance to buy a SIDLuxe and 25% a Fox.
So sorry, it is the first time that i custom-build a full suspension MTB #noob
Thank you :)
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Same : long legs (84cm). But i am used to long reach and short stem (35/40mm).
The aim is to ride 120mm front (490mm reach) and sometimes 140mm front (the geometry would be approximately like the Norco Optic)
I will probably go for a 40. The last 2.5 of travel are not that vertical so no big difference on riding I guess.
I chose the black with gold dots.
Do you know what i have to buy ? Does it depend on the shock or is it standard ? 75% chance to buy a SIDLuxe and 25% a Fox.
So sorry, it is the first time that i custom-build a full suspension MTB #noob
Thank you :)
For FOX : https://www.bike-components.de/de/Fox-Racing-Shox/Aluminium-Einbaubuchsenset-8-mm-5-teilig-p32318/
For RS: https://www.bike-components.de/de/RockShox/Einbaubuchsen-fuer-Federbeine-8-mm-fuer-Monarch-Kage-Vivid-Ario-ab-2010-p24675/
You need 22.2 mm width. Also you can use fox bushing in rockshox, just need to remove standart DU bushing in eyelet, in my opininon fox bushing works better with this style suspension.
Also there is enduro needle bearings, fits all shocks. https://www.bike24.com/p2223514.html?q=enduro%20needle
I've bought it as a spare bushing for fox, but ride all season with standart fox, works great.
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Wow, thanks a lot !
It is so hard to find the right information.
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mine was without him. bottom bracket protection only.
chipped paint and 0.5mm carbon
Sorry to see this damage. In my opinion this is not shipping damage but negligence by the person who packs the bike in the box. My frame had a similar problem but it was the derailleur hanger that popped out through the box and took several hits.
Carbonda should take more time to fill the voids in the box with cardboard insets to prevent the bike from sloshing around inside the box. It isn’t hard or expensive to do and countless bike boxes have been designed that could be copied by Carbonda.
If I were you I would ask for a partial refund or make them send you a new front triangle. The only way Carbonda will improve their packaging is if we as customers hold them to a higher standard.
The good news, you can build that frame and have no issues. The damage is in an area where you won’t see it and won’t compromise safety.
I do hope you have the yellow kit to match the frame. Pro.
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They promised to make a refund on the cost of painting. I am quite satisfied)
I will test a new bike, I will share my impressions later.
(https://scontent.fiev2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/123320888_3441015532612630_5014911755859225282_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=2&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=N2-ky0E5FlIAX-Dvjub&_nc_ht=scontent.fiev2-1.fna&oh=e2db50491ea517fe716832b15ac00e65&oe=5FC02605)
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They promised to make a refund on the cost of painting. I am quite satisfied)
I will test a new bike, I will share my impressions later.
(https://scontent.fiev2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/123320888_3441015532612630_5014911755859225282_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=2&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=N2-ky0E5FlIAX-Dvjub&_nc_ht=scontent.fiev2-1.fna&oh=e2db50491ea517fe716832b15ac00e65&oe=5FC02605)
Looks very nice!
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Looks very nice!
Is the bar end plug missing? It’s needed to be UCI compliant?
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Hi! I already ordered the frame in size L, waiting for it to arrive with great enthusiasm. Could a colleague tell me the size of the rear brake hose for size L? Thanks and best regards
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Hi! I already ordered the frame in size L, waiting for it to arrive with great enthusiasm. Could a colleague tell me the size of the rear brake hose for size L? Thanks and best regards
I will measure mine tonight! :)
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(https://scontent.fiev2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/123320888_3441015532612630_5014911755859225282_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=2&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=N2-ky0E5FlIAX-Dvjub&_nc_ht=scontent.fiev2-1.fna&oh=e2db50491ea517fe716832b15ac00e65&oe=5FC02605)
Fast and nice build !
Did you get the stickers on the fork separately ?
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I asked Wing, what their recommended way of housing guidance around the shock looks like. She sent me the drawing
(https://i.ibb.co/BfVhJbT/Screenshot-2020-10-30-20-55-20-67.jpg) (https://ibb.co/MgDzHrP)
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Looks very nice!
Nice rim decal. WHere did you get it?
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BTLOS Wheels are great (not a shill)! but please ignore the Road cleats ;) This was 10 mins before i snapped my 12s chain - so annoying.
Bit if interval training, I love how the rear end works on steep climbs, so much much traction!
Uploads to the site dont work anymore! :P
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rZRMQOANuodoWtryQ3FjGKUcDigsUun_/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10ypOlUlYEmG0R4zFpRJgvI5sG2QggTIw/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/18L9SvAh-9CTyTwHh2Th62HI055_rIpDm/view?usp=sharing
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Fast and nice build !
Did you get the stickers on the fork separately ?
these are native stickers. The Fork was in the stock in the canyon XC hardteil
Nice rim decal. WHere did you get it?
its a Elite Wheels https://aliexpress.ru/item/4000115411205.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edhbxZlT&_ga=2.6403762.1639649157.1604135806-1312734348.1577222061
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Can someone post a link or list of replacement bearing for the rear linkage? I saw a needle bearing option for the upper shock mount but not specifics for the rest of the linkage. After 1,000 miles of mostly dusty trails I'm having some squeaking in the linkage and planning to do a rebuild/regrease.
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I took my newly arrived frame apart to check the grease level of the bearings
Looks like it's:
4x 6900VRS
2x 6901VRS
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I took my newly arrived frame apart to check the grease level of the bearings
Looks like it's:
4x 6900VRS
2x 6901VRS
And 2x 6801 in trunnion mount
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Tip for the 936 users :
Check the derailleur hanger bolt sometimes.
I solved noise issues by retightening the bolt, the noise appeared when pedaling probably because the hanger could slip a bit.
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Does somebody know if a DVA Topaz would fit, with the double barrel ?
Wing says no, but he also says no for 42.5mm shock, non trunnion shock...
(https://assets.probikeshop.fr/images/products2/422/145324/600x600-145324_15235486016382.jpg)
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Does somebody know if a DVA Topaz would fit, with the double barrel ?
Wing says no, but he also says no for 42.5mm shock, non trunnion shock...
(https://assets.probikeshop.fr/images/products2/422/145324/600x600-145324_15235486016382.jpg)
Would not fit. Reservoir will hit the frame.
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(https://www.lightcarbon.com/uploadfile/bannerimg/16008217295115.jpg)
Are you sure that the carbonda frame have less space than this one ?
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Hi guys,
I found thist threat yeasterday and I I read the whole thing because I want to order this same frame, thanks for all that cool information :).
My only thought is ,wich frame size would fit me better.? Comparing the geometry with my actual Scalpel Si in L, the carbonda frame is pretty big so I'm considering downsizing to M. What you guys think?
I am 1,83m tall and I usually have my saddle height at 77,5 cm (BB to top of the Saddle).
Anyone riding a M with more or less the same saddle height?
Thanks again and keep posting those cool bike pics!
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Hi guys,
I found thist threat yeasterday and I I read the whole thing because I want to order this same frame, thanks for all that cool information :).
My only thought is ,wich frame size would fit me better.? Comparing the geometry with my actual Scalpel Si in L, the carbonda frame is pretty big so I'm considering downsizing to M. What you guys think?
I am 1,83m tall and I usually have my saddle height at 77,5 cm (BB to top of the Saddle).
Anyone riding a M with more or less the same saddle height?
Thanks again and keep posting those cool bike pics!
Hi,
The reach is longer but the seat tube is steeper.
What you need to look at is the distance between saddle and handlebar (horizontaly and verticaly) to have a nice riding position.
I am 1,78m with 75cm BB to top of the saddle. With a L size and a 40mm stem (what i like to ride), I have the same horizontaly and verticaly position as my Orbea Alma size L with 60mm stem.
The main difference is that on steep uphill, with the Orbea Alma, I was seated "on the rear wheel". What means poor handling and struggling to keep the front wheel on the ground.
Conclusion : I suggest you take the Carbonda L size.
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Hi guys,
I found thist threat yeasterday and I I read the whole thing because I want to order this same frame, thanks for all that cool information :).
My only thought is ,wich frame size would fit me better.? Comparing the geometry with my actual Scalpel Si in L, the carbonda frame is pretty big so I'm considering downsizing to M. What you guys think?
I am 1,83m tall and I usually have my saddle height at 77,5 cm (BB to top of the Saddle).
Anyone riding a M with more or less the same saddle height?
Thanks again and keep posting those cool bike pics!
I'm 185cm and I ride the L, with 60mm stem and flat bar. I would not want to ride a M that is for sure. L feels very perfect.
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Hi guys,
I found thist threat yeasterday and I I read the whole thing because I want to order this same frame, thanks for all that cool information :).
My only thought is ,wich frame size would fit me better.? Comparing the geometry with my actual Scalpel Si in L, the carbonda frame is pretty big so I'm considering downsizing to M. What you guys think?
I am 1,83m tall and I usually have my saddle height at 77,5 cm (BB to top of the Saddle).
Anyone riding a M with more or less the same saddle height?
Thanks again and keep posting those cool bike pics!
Definitely L for your height.
I choose L with short stem for 180cm, feels very balanced for ups and downs.
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Hi,
The reach is longer but the seat tube is steeper.
What you need to look at is the distance between saddle and handlebar (horizontaly and verticaly) to have a nice riding position.
I am 1,78m with 75cm BB to top of the saddle. With a L size and a 40mm stem (what i like to ride), I have the same horizontaly and verticaly position as my Orbea Alma size L with 60mm stem.
The main difference is that on steep uphill, with the Orbea Alma, I was seated "on the rear wheel". What means poor handling and struggling to keep the front wheel on the ground.
Conclusion : I suggest you take the Carbonda L size.
Hi Quentin and thanks for your answer.
I want to keep my actual position on the new frame which I find perfect, it would not be a problem even if the seat tube is 4 cm shorter, I just need to set my saddle 10 mm backwards.
The thing is, that this frame in M has a 30 mm longer reach than my Scalpel in L which is perfect if I want to build it with a shorter Stem
but in L it is 55mm longer .
Also the wheelbase in M is 50 mm longer than the Scalpel in L, the L would be a huge 100 mm difference.
The kind of riding I mostly do is agressive XC an marathon races so a reactive bike would be more of my taste.
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I want to keep my actual position on the new frame which I find perfect, it would not be a problem even if the seat tube is 4 cm shorter, I just need to set my saddle 10 mm backwards.
The thing is, that this frame in M has a 30 mm longer reach than my Scalpel in L which is perfect if I want to build it with a shorter Stem
but in L it is 55mm longer .
Also the wheelbase in M is 50 mm longer than the Scalpel in L, the L would be a huge 100 mm difference.
The kind of riding I mostly do is agressive XC an marathon races so a reactive bike would be more of my taste.
Is that the new scalpel? forgive me, but I think the point of the FM936 is to have the longer wheel base? I don't think you'll have any reactive issues on this, the benefit of the slack head angle and longer wheel base is not to be understated on the 'agressive' terrain.
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I am interested to know as well. Does it depend on frame sizes as well? The yellow custom painted frame some post back, looks like it could fit a piggy back shock.
Are you sure that the carbonda frame have less space than this one ?
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I want to keep my actual position on the new frame which I find perfect, it would not be a problem even if the seat tube is 4 cm shorter, I just need to set my saddle 10 mm backwards.
The thing is, that this frame in M has a 30 mm longer reach than my Scalpel in L which is perfect if I want to build it with a shorter Stem
but in L it is 55mm longer .
As i mentioned, don't look at the reach alone. Consider distance saddle / handlebar !
Going from 73,5° STA to 76° STA (for example) make the saddle 31mm closer to the bars => you need a reach 31mm longer to have the same pedaling position (horizontal distance saddle / bars)
If you take a 55mm reach longer, then you can reduce 25mm from the stem length (better downhill and handling)
For example, as i said on my Orbea Alma, I have 63mm reach difference, compensated buy 31mm with STA and 20-30mm stem length.
Look at the picture => same position saddle / handlebar.
(https://i.ibb.co/y4KWnMw/Sans-titre.png)
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When i center the pictures on the rear bike axle, you can see that the geometry, wheelbase, angles, BB height etc. are very very different.
But saddle->handlebar length is the same => same "pedaling" position
(https://i.ibb.co/5xRkqf1/Sans-titre.png)
The FM936 is a modern geometry, it should be riding hard, with short stem. Take a size L and downsize your stem ;D
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Bike still works at 210 miles.
One thing I’ve noticed is that my shock has never got close to the 42.5mm stroke. I probably have too much air in it and I only do 2-3’ drops but I also think the flex stays are causing some progressive damping as the stroke gets toward max.
I may play around with the air pressure and see how close I can get to max compression.
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I am interested to know as well. Does it depend on frame sizes as well? The yellow custom painted frame some post back, looks like it could fit a piggy back shock.
Here is a measurement and pic of the XL.
The cables take up some room. The 3ft mark is right on the shock body center.
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When i center the pictures on the rear bike axle, you can see that the geometry, wheelbase, angles, BB height etc. are very very different.
But saddle->handlebar length is the same => same "pedaling" position
(https://i.ibb.co/5xRkqf1/Sans-titre.png)
The FM936 is a modern geometry, it should be riding hard, with short stem. Take a size L and downsize your stem ;D
Hi Quentin, thanks for all those graphics and don't want to deviate the thread, but even when the saddle/handlebar distance is the same, the pedaling position it is not. In this example you are much more over the BB which I don't want to change from my actual bike as I train on three different bikes and have it dialed in terms of power and comfort, this is why I think it would be easier for me to get that position on a M frame. I would like to keep the same saddle to BB height/offset and distance to the handlebar. Maybe it would not be possible on a L as the reach is much longer.
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Hi Quentin, thanks for all those graphics and don't want to deviate the thread, but even when the saddle/handlebar distance is the same, the pedaling position it is not. In this example you are much more over the BB which I don't want to change from my actual bike as I train on three different bikes and have it dialed in terms of power and comfort, this is why I think it would be easier for me to get that position on a M frame. I would like to keep the same saddle to BB height/offset and distance to the handlebar. Maybe it would not be possible on a L as the reach is much longer.
My advice would be to forgo the reach and stack to match your current bikes and just set the seat based on the larger size. Others have fallen into the trap you are leaning toward and it hasn’t worked out. You want to be in this bike: long, low, and slack. Matching the reach and stack isn’t critical important on a MTB. You move and constantly adjust your body based on several factors. You want to be low in this bike, not high on it. ;)
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My advice would be to forgo the reach and stack to match your current bikes and just set the seat based on the larger size. Others have fallen into the trap you are leaning toward and it hasn’t worked out. You want to be in this bike: long, low, and slack. Matching the reach and stack isn’t critical important on a MTB. You move and constantly adjust your body based on several factors. You want to be low in this bike, not high on it. ;)
and I'm guessing his saddle pushed back far behind the BB is the result of the older, shorter geometry - very bad.
Behind the BB over the rear wheel is inefficient for pedaling and traction - look at the saddle position of the most efficient pedalers in cycling (hint they do TT).
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Hi Quentin, thanks for all those graphics and don't want to deviate the thread, but even when the saddle/handlebar distance is the same, the pedaling position it is not. In this example you are much more over the BB which I don't want to change from my actual bike as I train on three different bikes and have it dialed in terms of power and comfort, this is why I think it would be easier for me to get that position on a M frame. I would like to keep the same saddle to BB height/offset and distance to the handlebar. Maybe it would not be possible on a L as the reach is much longer.
Just curious, what are your other 2 bikes? Here's some potential perspective. Take the example that you get a bike fit on a road bike, the fit is done on a stationary trainer. There will be an ideal saddle height, set back, and tilt to maximize power and minimize discomfort. This is important because you are always seated in the same position and grades are not as steep as MTB trails. For an MTB, the "perfect" pedal position is less important in general because you're constantly moving around and shifting your weight, therefore the best position is a balance between good fit and weight balance. Now what if you redid your bike fit, but you lifted the front tire up enough to match a 5 or 10% grade? You'd push the saddle forward to compensate, since the STA gets slacker. It's true that when you go back to flat ground, it's a compromised position, but if your trails are constant up and down, does that matter? Take this with a grain of salt, the new style geometry isn't for everyone. I'd bet that a bike with a 69 deg HTA and 73 deg STA would be faster on flatter XC trails than the newer bikes with 66 deg HTA and 76 deg STA, especially tight courses. But if that's what your trails are like and you want the perfect pedaling position on flat ground, then this likely isn't the bike for you. If you downsize and push the saddle back, you'll just end up with a rearward weight balance, it'll be hard to weight the front tire in corners and won't feel right. The slack HTA, steep STA, long reach, and long wheelbase all play together.
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Hi Quentin and thanks for your answer.
I want to keep my actual position on the new frame which I find perfect, it would not be a problem even if the seat tube is 4 cm shorter, I just need to set my saddle 10 mm backwards.
The thing is, that this frame in M has a 30 mm longer reach than my Scalpel in L which is perfect if I want to build it with a shorter Stem
but in L it is 55mm longer .
Also the wheelbase in M is 50 mm longer than the Scalpel in L, the L would be a huge 100 mm difference.
The kind of riding I mostly do is agressive XC an marathon races so a reactive bike would be more of my taste.
If you want to keep your current position like on the Scalpel, keep the Scalpel! This frame has a completely different approach and you seem not wanting to live with it. The FM936 is true to size. If you run L in your other bikes, also use an L with this frame!
You asked for advice and everyone told you to get the L, but it seems you don't want to listen. Your body size and saddle height screams for the L. But if you want the M so badly, take the M, but don't blame anybody but you if you don't like it.
If I read through your comments I'd suggest not to buy this frame at all. It's not what you're looking for.
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If you want to keep your current position like on the Scalpel, keep the Scalpel! This frame has a completely different approach and you seem not wanting to live with it. The FM936 is true to size. If you run L in your other bikes, also use an L with this frame!
You asked for advice and everyone told you to get the L, but it seems you don't want to listen. Your body size and saddle height screams for the L. But if you want the M so badly, take the M, but don't blame anybody but you if you don't like it.
If I read through your comments I'd suggest not to buy this frame at all. It's not what you're looking for.
I thing you got it wrong. I understand the approach of this bike and this is exactly what I'm looking for (slacker HT angle and longer wheelbase and lower BB), which I actually can achieve on a M frame keeping my actual position(50mm longer wheelbase and 67 HT angle) for sure I'd never blame anybody for my own choice.
The whole thing is to have a bike which I can pedal up on my races almost so effective as my Scalpel and go down faster/easier. Some marathon races I do we hit climbs over 1000mtrs in one go (mostly on even surface, fire roads or even Tarmac) and then descent those same 1000 mtrs on trails.
As I said before, on the M frame I would be able to mount a 30 mm shorter stem keeping my actual position and have a much more DH oriented bike as soon as the things go down.
In Spain, the Brand Mendiz is offering a model with the exact same frame, and they also sell the M frame from Carbonda as an L https://www.bicismendiz.com/bicicletas/mtb/mendiz-x40xc-configurador#.
In my opinion, everybody rides different and have to build the bike according their needs, I don't want the M so badly, I just want to build the bike which offers me the best performance for the riding I do. If I wanted a bike to focus on descending I wouldn't mind to have the L but for me is also important that the bike is reacting fast uphill on tight corners and feels effective on long stady climbs.
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Here is Patxi Cia's bike, a Spanish xc racer which is built with the same approach (xc/xcm aggressive riding). He is shorter (1'75 mtrs) and rides a S size.
B
A 9'8kg rocket
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Here is Patxi Cia's bike, a Spanish xc racer which is built with the same approach (xc/xcm aggressive riding). He is shorter (1'75 mtrs) and rides a S size.
A 9'8kg rocket
Hahaha ! :o A "downcountry" bike downsized with a 120mm stem ? I think it is the worst idea for both handling and power.
As acedeuce802 said : The slack HTA, steep STA, long reach, and long wheelbase all play together.
If you play around with that, it will be shitty for sure. Long stem with slack HTA is a terrible idea for downhill handling.
As well as saddle set up backward is a bad idea for uphill.
Back 10 years ago, every body were riding 650mm handlebar. On modern geo 29" bikes, nobody would do that.
You are entering the future of xc geo, do not be afraid, forgot your old bike geometry and take a L you won't regret it ;D
PS : spanish people are not tall. A L in Spain is a M in France and S in Denmark :-X
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Hahaha ! :o A "downcountry" bike downsized with a 120mm stem ? I think it is the worst idea for both handling and power.
As acedeuce802 said : The slack HTA, steep STA, long reach, and long wheelbase all play together.
If you play around with that, it will be shitty for sure. Long stem with slack HTA is a terrible idea for downhill handling.
As well as saddle set up backward is a bad idea for uphill.
Back 10 years ago, every body were riding 650mm handlebar. On modern geo 29" bikes, nobody would do that.
You are entering the future of xc geo, do not be afraid, forgot your old bike geometry and take a L you won't regret it ;D
PS : spanish people are not tall. A L in Spain is a M in France and S in Denmark :-X
Is not my idea to mount a 120mm stem, according to my measurements 70mm would do.
Did you ever tried a longer stem on a bike with slack angle? because IMO there is a lot of bro science about geos, most important thing on a bike which needs to climb efficient (anybike at some point) is the saddle position, if you shift your saddle forward you are going to have less weight on the rear wheel and also less traction. I don't get the point to change my actual saddle position which I find perfect for power/comfort/traction efficiency. I also never had an issue of my front wheel wanting to rise on steep climb so I don't need to put more weight on the front when climbing.
Then it comes descending which you never do on the saddle and you want a longer reach from the BB to mount a shorter stem and a slacker HT angle and is what this bikes offers.
This frame is way longer than any other bike (even the new modern geometry bikes) and the only measurement which can relate it to a M frame is the seat tube lenght, which is also the less important as you can play with the saddle height/offset and that's because the bike has a really steep slopping.
By the way, is pretty stupid to say that because the people in Spain is shorter the size is different when all the rest of the brands keep the same sizing chart.
Do you race XC or XCM? the demands of those races are different to the recreational normal riding, I have to be able to put a high amount of power for a long sustained time to go up a climb. Already tested with different saddle positions and if I go to much over the BB, on long races my knees start hurting. It's the same comparison between a road and a TT bike, on a tt bike, because you lean over the handlebar, your position is way more in front of the BB, which usually drops the power you can put on the pedals but allow you to be more efficient in terms of aerodynamics which makes you go faster on the flats, but as soon as you start climbing and the speed is lower, you want to have the most efficient and powerful psotion (otherwise they would ride TT bikes all the time at the Tour de France).
I also understand, if for your kind of riding you want to sacrifice some climbing efficiency to get more of the bike going down, is fine for me but is a different way of riding the same bike.
If you check the Unno Horn's geo (created by Cesar Rojo, pioneer of all the new modern geo bikes) has a shorter reach, shorter wheelbase but the same 440mm seat tube lenght and 67 degrees HT.
Same with BMC fourstroke, Mondraker Podium, etc all of them modern geo bikes and this frame in M has a longer reach and wheelbase than the others in L.
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Here you have different modern geo charts, as you can see, the carbonda has longer reach and wheelbase in M than the others in L.
The only bike I could find with a similiar wheelbase for the same size is the Transition Spur, but even this one has a 25mm shorter reach.
If you can find any other bike on the market with same/similar HT angle and ST angle with the same reach and wheelbase (for the same size) of the carbonda you can post here the geo chart and we can talk about it.
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Here is Patxi Cia's bike, a Spanish xc racer which is built with the same approach (xc/xcm aggressive riding). He is shorter (1'75 mtrs) and rides a S size.
B
A 9'8kg rocket
Mein Gott! Looks terrible. Trying to make oldschool xc\road bike from frame with modern geometry is bad idea. If you want oldschool xc bike, that frame is just not your choise.
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Mein Gott! Looks terrible. Trying to make oldschool xc\road bike from frame with modern geometry is bad idea. If you want oldschool xc bike, that frame is just not your choise.
I agree the stem is way too long for that bike but this was not my point.
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I agree the stem is way too long for that bike but this was not my point.
Roby13 has some really good points. He wants to maintain the saddle to BB position due to knees: 'Already tested with different saddle positions and if I go to much over the BB, on long races my knees start hurting.'
I personally like my position where my knee is infront of the pedal axle (gives me less pain on the patellar)
I've not had issues with rear traction or front wheel lift on super steep tricky rocky assents but also I've not ridden a Scalpel so I don't have a point of reference. I can tell you that the slightly lower steep turn performance is offset by a greater degree by the descending ability.
I'm riding national XC points series on this bike next summer so I guess that will be the proof. If it's any guidance, Michał Topór was riding it seems like M at the world cup youtube.com/watch?v=_ri22H12QTg which seems suited for his height. You might get best of both worlds with the M with a slightly longer stem, but I don't know. What length would you have to run to get the reach you want?
If it's any help, would you like some images of me mounted on the bike? with 2 stem positions? - ive no idea if that would help
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Roby13 has some really good points. He wants to maintain the saddle to BB position due to knees: 'Already tested with different saddle positions and if I go to much over the BB, on long races my knees start hurting.'
I personally like my position where my knee is infront of the pedal axle (gives me less pain on the patellar)
I've not had issues with rear traction or front wheel lift on super steep tricky rocky assents but also I've not ridden a Scalpel so I don't have a point of reference. I can tell you that the slightly lower steep turn performance is offset by a greater degree by the descending ability.
I'm riding national XC points series on this bike next summer so I guess that will be the proof. If it's any guidance, Michał Topór was riding it seems like M at the world cup youtube.com/watch?v=_ri22H12QTg which seems suited for his height. You might get best of both worlds with the M with a slightly longer stem, but I don't know. What length would you have to run to get the reach you want?
If it's any help, would you like some images of me mounted on the bike? with 2 stem positions? - ive no idea if that would help
I would have to run a 70mm stem on the M which I find right for a xc modern bike. (same as NS is mounting on the M an L sizes).
The only thing I would need is to have more seatpost outside the frame and this would also compensate the actual seat tube angle.
I don't want to upset anybody here or deviate the threat so I'm going to try for the last time to explain my point.
Let's say I'm going to buy a new xc bike with modern geometry. In terms of HT angle, ST angle and wheelbase the closest a I could find are the BMC, Unno and Mondraker. On any of this brands I will take hands down the L size which is the one I have always ridden and I don't think any of you would advice me to by the XL. Well, if I take the L from Carbonda it would equal a XL from those brands.
Of course I can ride a XL just lowering the saddle on those and due to the long wheelbase it would be stable and planted on the downhills but it won't feel nimble or fast cornering or going up, which you really need on xc bike.
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Did you ever tried a longer stem on a bike with slack angle? because IMO there is a lot of bro science about geos, most important thing on a bike which needs to climb efficient (anybike at some point) is the saddle position, if you shift your saddle forward you are going to have less weight on the rear wheel and also less traction.
Stem
Yes i did try different stems on my 65° HTA bike. When stem is longer than 60mm this is a very strange sensation et poor handling.
STA
I have a custom geo hardtail 76° STA / 65 HTA / 476 reach and a 73,5° STA / 69 HTA / 428 reach hardtail Orbea Alma. The Orbea Alma offers better traction on flat tracks but less traction on steep climbs, because the weight is too much backward. The best traction is offered when the saddle is verticaly aligned with the rear axle or a bit forward. On my Orbea Alma i feel like my weight is backward the axle (i am not sure if i am clear :) ). PS : the vertical and horizontal length between saddle and bars is exactly the same between all my bikes. The difference doesn't come from the positionning.
XCO/XCM or downcountry ?
I understand your need. You are trying to get the "best of both worlds". Downsizing and "modifying" a downcountry geo to fit XCO/XCM geometry (old or not) is probably a bad idea in my opinion (suspension feel with your ass at 73° instead of 77°, handling with longer stem...).
The reviews don't recommend the NS Synonym for its pedaling quality. If you are into XCO/XCM you will certainly find it lacks pure pedaling performance (vs Scott Spark and Orbea Oiz for example) and moreover you will not have the benefits of the downcountry geo because downsized + long stem. Instead of "the best of both worlds", maybe it will results in "the worst of both worlds".
My need is a mini enduro bike with the weight of a XC.
Your need is a pure XC that descends better.
Maybe you are right and you need a M with longer stem and saddle backward... let's give it a try if you are not afraid of being disappointed. I hope you'll enjoy it ;D
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Stem
Yes i did try different stems on my 65° HTA bike. When stem is longer than 60mm this is a very strange sensation et poor handling.
STA
I have a custom geo hardtail 76° STA / 65 HTA / 476 reach and a 73,5° STA / 69 HTA / 428 reach hardtail Orbea Alma. The Orbea Alma offers better traction on flat tracks but less traction on steep climbs, because the weight is too much backward. The best traction is offered when the saddle is verticaly aligned with the rear axle or a bit forward. On my Orbea Alma i feel like my weight is backward the axle (i am not sure if i am clear :) ). PS : the vertical and horizontal length between saddle and bars is exactly the same between all my bikes. The difference doesn't come from the positionning.
XCO/XCM or downcountry ?
I understand your need. You are trying to get the "best of both worlds". Downsizing and "modifying" a downcountry geo to fit XCO/XCM geometry (old or not) is probably a bad idea in my opinion (suspension feel with your ass at 73° instead of 77°, handling with longer stem...).
The reviews don't recommend the NS Synonym for its pedaling quality. If you are into XCO/XCM you will certainly find it lacks pure pedaling performance (vs Scott Spark and Orbea Oiz for example) and moreover you will not have the benefits of the downcountry geo because downsized + long stem. Instead of "the best of both worlds", maybe it will results in "the worst of both worlds".
My need is a mini enduro bike with the weight of a XC.
Your need is a pure XC that descends better.
Maybe you are right and you need a M with longer stem and saddle backward... let's give it a try if you are not afraid of being disappointed. I hope you'll enjoy it ;D
I just found out that the Synonym Race runs a 70mm stem on the M and 80mm on the L , so is not that I have to modify anything.
The only thing I should do is to have more seatpost exposed but in my opinion, the size of a bike doesn't come from the seat tube lenght, clearly in this case is a matter of short ST due to a lot of slopping, ALL the rest of the measurements are spot on with a bigger size in any other brand.
You are also right, you have better traction when you put most of your weight vertically over the rear axle, but it is impossible that you are backwards of your rear axle on your Alma, the slope of the climb should be too steep or you would have to wheelie all the time.
Also the pedaling efficency of a bike would be determined from your position on the bike and the chainstays lenght, damper/suspension system/set up.
The chainstay lenght is just 3 mm longer than my Scalpel (I assume it would feel a little less reactive). If your position on the saddle is the same, then your damper set up works to stop any bobbing when pedaling, it can be a pretty good climber.
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I just found out that the Synonym Race runs a 70mm stem on the M and 80mm on the L , so is not that I have to modify anything.
I don't want to sound rude or anything but it seems like you had already made your mind even before asking your first question and came here in hope that other people would make you feel good about it. I understand that, for you, the sadle to BB is the biggest factor to check since you're having problems with your knees and it's ok. To me, ETT is way more important since I have lower back pain issues if the seated position is too short or too long. Because ETT is the bigest factor for me, the M would be the best solution and I'm 1.75m. If you think a M is the best for you, go for it. For the price of those frames, you could even buy a M and a L to test out which is best for you.
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how does fox work with ebay? no problem with him?
its my carbonda, Large size, my height 180cm
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how does fox work with ebay? no problem with him?
its my carbonda, Large size, my height 180cm
what do you mean about Fox? sorry
Nice ride! looks light!
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what do you mean about Fox? sorry
Nice ride! looks light!
changed the repair kit or without service it works fine
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changed the repair kit or without service it works fine
the FOX DPS 42.5 works well. The one i found that others also purchased is brand new and does not need service before install.
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the FOX DPS 42.5 works well. The one i found that others also purchased is brand new and does not need service before install.
thanks
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Are you able to take a measurement level from the trunnion bolt level. To the frame?
The dvo topaz 2 shock with piggy back uses 1.6 inches of space from the trunnion bolt. If this frame has less, the dvo wont fit. The frame will block the shock rebound dial.
I am asking as i have a topaz and was thinking if i can use this for this frame in the future.
So if you can take another measurement, it be graet
Here is a measurement and pic of the XL.
The cables take up some room. The 3ft mark is right on the shock body center.
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Are you able to take a measurement level from the trunnion bolt level. To the frame?
The dvo topaz 2 shock with piggy back uses 1.6 inches of space from the trunnion bolt. If this frame has less, the dvo wont fit. The frame will block the shock rebound dial.
I am asking as i have a topaz and was thinking if i can use this for this frame in the future.
So if you can take another measurement, it be graet
2 inches
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Thank you! What frame size is this.?
Wonder if small or medium size is the same 2 inches.
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Thank you! What frame size is this.?
Wonder if small or medium size is the same 2 inches.
this is L size
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this is L size
Interesting, it should fit :-)
I am hesitating between Rockshox SIDLuxe and DVO Topaz (100g heavier but expected to be more constant on long downhills -1 000 meters)...
Has anyone tried both (on other bike) ?
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...expected to be more constant on long downhills -1 000 meters...
What do you mean by constant ?
Because of your last week's comments... I'm torn between a M or L size now... Thank you so very much ! ;)
I'm about 1.5cm shorter on the torso than you, but you like to be flat on your bike with a 40mm stem.
I took a M planning a 50mm or 60mm stem to match my current horizontal distance, and a little more drop, but still higher than my gravel&road bikes.
It may be late anyway, as it was planned to be built these days... but it will be few grams lighter in M 8)
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What do you mean by constant ?
"piggyback" do handles heat better => on long and rough downhills (or heavy / aggressive rider) "inline" shocks can heat and the damping is not constant.
Because of your last week's comments... I'm torn between a M or L size now... Thank you so very much ! ;)
So sorry :-X
The conclusion was : every rider will make different choice, depending on size, type of riding, habits...
My heart (and calculations) told me to choose a L. If yours told you to choose a M... just give it a try :)
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Looks like this one: https://wheelsmfg.com/derailleur-hangers/thru-axle-hangers/derailleur-hanger-309.html
But I'd prob just contact Adam/Carbonda and order a few directly. Might take a bit longer, but should be a lot cheaper.
Yeah, I went through this and tried to make it work. The Wheels MFG is an M6 thread vs the M5 on the stock hanger, and the axel/bolt spacing is off about .5mm or so. You can install the hanger, but the wheel won't line up with the axel threads. Definitely need to go through Carbonda.
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I don't want to upset anybody here or deviate the threat so I'm going to try for the last time to explain my point.
Let's say I'm going to buy a new xc bike with modern geometry. In terms of HT angle, ST angle and wheelbase the closest a I could find are the BMC, Unno and Mondraker. On any of this brands I will take hands down the L size which is the one I have always ridden and I don't think any of you would advice me to by the XL. Well, if I take the L from Carbonda it would equal a XL from those brands.
Of course I can ride a XL just lowering the saddle on those and due to the long wheelbase it would be stable and planted on the downhills but it won't feel nimble or fast cornering or going up, which you really need on xc bike.
Hey - I'm late to the discussion, but I was between L/XL sizing and sized down for lots of the same reasons you are considering it. From all your replies you've given, I think you want to size to M and I think you should trust your intuition, which is based on some solid data and your gut feeling. Your point about size M on this bike being a L on most mainstream brands is exactly why I sized down as well. Have fun, after all this is riding bikes!
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Hey - I'm late to the discussion, but I was between L/XL sizing and sized down for lots of the same reasons you are considering it. From all your replies you've given, I think you want to size to M and I think you should trust your intuition, which is based on some solid data and your gut feeling. Your point about size M on this bike being a L on most mainstream brands is exactly why I sized down as well. Have fun, after all this is riding bikes!
Are you happy with sizing down? How does your build ride? Did you end up changing the stem or headset spacers to increase reach/stack?
I sized up and have no complaints.
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I don't want to sound rude or anything but it seems like you had already made your mind even before asking your first question and came here in hope that other people would make you feel good about it. I understand that, for you, the sadle to BB is the biggest factor to check since you're having problems with your knees and it's ok. To me, ETT is way more important since I have lower back pain issues if the seated position is too short or too long. Because ETT is the bigest factor for me, the M would be the best solution and I'm 1.75m. If you think a M is the best for you, go for it. For the price of those frames, you could even buy a M and a L to test out which is best for you.
...true! Just get both of them and sell the one which is not fitting. You will definitely find a buyer for it. Or find a NS dealer and tryout the Synonym.
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Hello friends
Here you have more information for the same FM936 frame, 2020 and 2021 model differences:
WRC Thunder 2020
(http://www.bikeworldbcn.com/wp-content/uploads/010407masm_0.jpeg)
WRC Dark 2021
(https://www.buhobike.com/70894-thickbox_default/bicicleta-montaa-xc-doble-wrc-dark--xt--negro.jpg)
The same geometry and different link and rear
(https://www.conorbikes.com/content/files/Gama%202021%20fotos/geometrias%20web%202021/GEOMETRIAS_WEB_2021_WRC_DARK.jpg)
https://www.conorbikes.com/es-es/wrcdark21/
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Hello friends
Here you have more information for the same FM936 frame, 2020 and 2021 model differences:
The same geometry and different link and rear
https://www.conorbikes.com/es-es/wrcdark21/
It may not be a new 936. They may have paid for a custom rear triangle. Isn't that 2021 similar to the NS Synonym.
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Anyone have a problem with suspension bolts and axles?
Yesterday I unscrewed the bolt in the rear triangle((
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It may not be a new 936. They may have paid for a custom rear triangle. Isn't that 2021 similar to the NS Synonym.
thought the same thing! Might be a private mold for the rear triangle and link like NS has. Asked Wing about it
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thought the same thing! Might be a private mold for the rear triangle and link like NS has. Asked Wing about it
Maybe it is to be able to say yes to a 42.5mm shock, or crazy... a 45 8)
To get a real 120/120. If that is even a necessity for some.
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I'd really like to see real 120mm travel in the rear. That's presently more or less the only thing stopping me from ordering.
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Hey - I'm late to the discussion, but I was between L/XL sizing and sized down for lots of the same reasons you are considering it. From all your replies you've given, I think you want to size to M and I think you should trust your intuition, which is based on some solid data and your gut feeling. Your point about size M on this bike being a L on most mainstream brands is exactly why I sized down as well. Have fun, after all this is riding bikes!
Thanks, definitely I'm going to get the M, it makes more sense to me. I just wanted to have some feedback, by no means to start a discussion.
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thought the same thing! Might be a private mold for the rear triangle and link like NS has. Asked Wing about it
Let us know what they say.
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Let us know what they say.
She says it's private mold
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Can anyone here clarify if i can use my Rockshox Monarch XX rear shox (with the full sprint remote too) in this frame?
Its a 165x38 shock my current frame is 100mm travel front and rear and plan to move all the parts over from it to this new frame.
Im mainly a roadie. Built the current 29er myself but that was 2015 so i'm not really up to speed with current suspension details like the difference between trunnion shocks and metric shocks etc.
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Can anyone here clarify if i can use my Rockshox Monarch XX rear shox (with the full sprint remote too) in this frame?
Its a 165x38 shock my current frame is 100mm travel front and rear and plan to move all the parts over from it to this new frame.
Im mainly a roadie. Built the current 29er myself but that was 2015 so i'm not really up to speed with current suspension details like the difference between trunnion shocks and metric shocks etc.
Has it got 1 eye or 2? Trunnions have 1 eye on one end and 2 bolt holes on the other end. 165x38 should work yes. Will give you closer to 100mm rather than 110mm (we've not quite worked it out exactly) that we get with the 165x42.5 fox :) .
A metric shock is simply a shock that is in a whole number mm. Basically when there were trying to standardise shocks across all US(fox) and EU/Asian manufactures they decised theres going to be a range of options with intervals that frame makers can choose from. Makes it easier for everyone. Although the tune of the shock can still make a difference (although the Giant Anthem shock that alot of us are using works great, despite being tunes for that bike). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Performance-165-x-42-5-Shock-Giant-Anthem-27-5-Trunnion-Dps-Float/124273032134?epid=7026833371&hash=item1cef3ffbc6:g:rLEAAOSwRDJcCemV (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Performance-165-x-42-5-Shock-Giant-Anthem-27-5-Trunnion-Dps-Float/124273032134?epid=7026833371&hash=item1cef3ffbc6:g:rLEAAOSwRDJcCemV)
I believe you can convert 2 eye shocks to trunnion: https://www.dirtlabs.com/products/trek-trunnion-mount-adapter-kit (https://www.dirtlabs.com/products/trek-trunnion-mount-adapter-kit) Although i expect theres a cheaper one out there.
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Thanks, definitely I'm going to get the M, it makes more sense to me. I just wanted to have some feedback, by no means to start a discussion.
I think if you could go with a size M, but with a lot of seatpost outside!
I am on a 75.5cm seat height in size M, the measurements of the frame are long!
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Hello friends
Here you have more information for the same FM936 frame, 2020 and 2021 model differences:
WRC Thunder 2020
WRC Dark 2021
The same geometry and different link and rear
https://www.conorbikes.com/es-es/wrcdark21/
It's clear they also changed the offset of the fork. Likely from 55 to 44. Look at the position of the stanchions relative to the headtube.
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It is clear that they changed the front triangle A LOT : 67° seat angle and 77° head angle ;D
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It is clear that they changed the front triangle A LOT : 67° seat angle and 77° head angle ;D
Hahaha bazzinggaa!
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It is clear that they changed the front triangle A LOT : 67° seat angle and 77° head angle ;D
Maybe I'm not getting it, but the current FM936 has 67° and 77° STA and HTA. Both drop a degree when going to a 120/120.
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Maybe I'm not getting it, but the current FM936 has 67° and 77° STA and HTA. Both drop a degree when going to a 120/120.
There is a typo on their geometry image.
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There is a typo on their geometry image.
Got it. Didn't notice they had reversed the two.
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Has it got 1 eye or 2? Trunnions have 1 eye on one end and 2 bolt holes on the other end. 165x38 should work yes. Will give you closer to 100mm rather than 110mm (we've not quite worked it out exactly) that we get with the 165x42.5 fox :) .
A metric shock is simply a shock that is in a whole number mm. Basically when there were trying to standardise shocks across all US(fox) and EU/Asian manufactures they decised theres going to be a range of options with intervals that frame makers can choose from. Makes it easier for everyone. Although the tune of the shock can still make a difference (although the Giant Anthem shock that alot of us are using works great, despite being tunes for that bike). https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Performance-165-x-42-5-Shock-Giant-Anthem-27-5-Trunnion-Dps-Float/124273032134?epid=7026833371&hash=item1cef3ffbc6:g:rLEAAOSwRDJcCemV (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fox-Performance-165-x-42-5-Shock-Giant-Anthem-27-5-Trunnion-Dps-Float/124273032134?epid=7026833371&hash=item1cef3ffbc6:g:rLEAAOSwRDJcCemV)
Thanks for the help!! It's got one eye on each end, so not trunnion. But as long as it fits and gives me 100 mm then im happy.
I don't really want to buy new front and rear sus to increase it to 120/110mm at the moment. hoping to just swap the frame and get a new BB. Is there that much difference anyway? I guess its 10-20% more travel which might be 10-20% better?
I believe you can convert 2 eye shocks to trunnion: https://www.dirtlabs.com/products/trek-trunnion-mount-adapter-kit (https://www.dirtlabs.com/products/trek-trunnion-mount-adapter-kit) Although i expect theres a cheaper one out there.
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Thanks for the help!! It's got one eye on each end, so not trunnion. But as long as it fits and gives me 100 mm then im happy.
I don't really want to buy new front and rear sus to increase it to 120/110mm at the moment. hoping to just swap the frame and get a new BB. Is there that much difference anyway? I guess its 10-20% more travel which might be 10-20% better?
You'll enjoy it! The NS sells a 100 option so do all the other resellers (there's many). 100 mm could be better for you depending on the trails :)
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Not sure if this link was not posted here.
Real life images of Stevens
https://esmtb.com/exclusiva-nueva-doble-de-xc-de-stevens-imagenes-de-su-prototipo/
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Not sure if this link was not posted here...
Yeah, it was posted already, a long time ago.
I love the "Designed and Engineered in Hamburg" stamp in the last picture.
Or wait... Hamburg is now in China ? 8)
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Yeah, it was posted already, a long time ago.
I love the "Designed and Engineered in Hamburg" stamp in the last picture.
Or wait... Hamburg is now in China ? 8)
Yes, Hamburg is one city over from Xiamen! Its 1 hour on the fast train and 3 on the commuter.....
Did Steven's actually ever release this?...
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Yes, Hamburg is one city over from Xiamen! Its 1 hour on the fast train and 3 on the commuter.....
Did Steven's actually ever release this?...
at least their riders ride this frame https://www.facebook.com/stevensmtbracingteam/ (https://www.facebook.com/stevensmtbracingteam/)
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Ok, so another go... Has anyone here tried to ride this carbonda and specialized epic evo? ( 2020/2021 )
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Are you happy with sizing down? How does your build ride? Did you end up changing the stem or headset spacers to increase reach/stack?
I sized up and have no complaints.
Yeah, I'm definitely happy with the bike. I was worried it might be a bit small and I'd have to push seat back in rails or go longer stem. But the fit is fine with seat centred in the rails and a 50mm stem. The centre of the bars to seat measurement is within 5mm of my 2019 XL Commencal Meta TR, which has the same HTA, STA so it feels very similar to that bike, but weighs about 10lbs less and pedals like a hot damn! Looking forward to doing XCM with it.
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Yeah, I'm definitely happy with the bike. I was worried it might be a bit small and I'd have to push seat back in rails or go longer stem. But the fit is fine with seat centred in the rails and a 50mm stem. The centre of the bars to seat measurement is within 5mm of my 2019 XL Commencal Meta TR, which has the same HTA, STA so it feels very similar to that bike, but weighs about 10lbs less and pedals like a hot damn! Looking forward to doing XCM with it.
Good to hear.
I think the difference for me is my height is disproportionately in my legs. Here are my build measurements from my old bike that I used to decide on the XL vs L.
Center of seat to center of stem handlebar stem clamp (virtual TT): 73cm
Center of BB to center of seat rail (virtual ST): 76.5cm
Center of front axle to center of handlebar stem clamp (virtual stack): 68.5cm
With the new build I’m most impressed with how the 936 handles dips, drops, and rough chunk at speed. The slack, low, long geometry puts the body weight in a confidence inspiring position where the suspension works the terrain as the body drives the pedals.
This is perfect for my local trail where it is never flat or smooth but always rolling bumps, roots, rocks, dips, and A line features. Climbs are short where momentum and bursts of power are needed.
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My build... I took what I had, so it’s I mix of “old” Shimano and SRAM parts. I will change to a 120 mm fork and inside dropper coming days. Did also print some fake Stevens decals.. think it looks nice :)
I’m 180 cm and ordered an L frame. Use an 40 mm steam. Have just done a short ride but the size feels perfect. I Will come back with more feedback after that i have changed to 120 fork and done some more rides.
I normally ride XC marathon on a Scoot Spark RC900 WC. My plan is to use the 936 as winter training bike (live in Sweden and the winter is soon here), and next season as an fun trail bike.
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In the absence of putting a longer stem and making some changes later to lighten it ... so the "carbonda" remains.
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its my carbonda)
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In the absence of putting a longer stem and making some changes later to lighten it ... so the "carbonda" remains.
Nice black version !
Are these your usual tires, or it was a test ? Happy from them ?
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its my carbonda)
The saddle is set quite forward, and the stem is longer than most.
You like to be on the front wheel ;)
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The saddle is set quite forward, and the stem is longer than most.
You like to be on the front wheel ;)
I tried to ride with a stem of 60mm, upward is better with a stem of 80mm as in the photo. The frame is great for XC
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In the absence of putting a longer stem and making some changes later to lighten it ... so the "carbonda" remains.
Hi, very nice build.
What do you think of the X-Fusion shock ? Is there a remote ?
Your SUntour Aion 35 is 120mm travel ?
Did somebody tried to put a 27.5 x 2.8 tire rear ?
I ride it on my hardtail on very rocky / exposed trails, it feels amazing in some situations.
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In the absence of putting a longer stem and making some changes later to lighten it ... so the "carbonda" remains.
Hello!
Is this a stock shock X-Fusion from Carbonda? How it performs?
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I have not yet been able to release the bike.
The xfusion is not carbonda. The Xfusion shock absorber is 165x45 and I have to return it to the guy who buys it, since the shock absorber measurements went wrong.
I have never used these tires, we will see how they work.
The suntour aion is in 120mm.
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I need advise of collective mind:)
I’m going to order a frame but in stock now there are frames SL with pressfit BB and Normal version with BSA BB. Which version is better?
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I need advise of collective mind:)
I’m going to order a frame but in stock now there are frames SL with pressfit BB and Normal version with BSA BB. Which version is better?
I've had Zero issues with my normal press fit frame, from what i know, nobody has experienced significant press-fit BB problems. I'd say choose with your wallet!
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Does anyone have experience how the two frame variations, normal and SL, compare (apart from the weight difference)?
Espacially regarding stiffness and quality? Is the SL one more XC racing orientated and the normal for heavier trail focused use or is there no obvious difference?
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Does anyone have experience how the two frame variations, normal and SL, compare (apart from the weight difference)?
Espacially regarding stiffness and quality? Is the SL one more XC racing orientated and the normal for heavier trail focused use or is there no obvious difference?
The SL is to save weight. Some have said it is a different mold/layup while others believer it is just additional sanding.
I went SL because it was lighter. I wanted BSA for simplicity. It’s a balance.
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The SL is to save weight. Some have said it is a different mold/layup while others believer it is just additional sanding.
I went SL because it was lighter. I wanted BSA for simplicity. It’s a balance.
I would probably say its a different fiber layerup and finer sanding. For 150 grams for (250dollars?) difference you have to ask does it match the components on the bike? You could save that many grams elsewhere easily for 250 if you're using SLX /Deore components or heavier bars,seatpost, saddle.
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I had many problems with Pressfit BB on my carbon MTBs. It is never perfectly aligned, the bearings wear quickly and there is play between the parts.
Even with expensive BB. I need to change it every 3 000 km average (depending on dirt / dust / weather conditions).
With BSA, I never had any issue, even with the cheapest BB. The "new" Threadfit is promising as well...
For SL, if i remember well carbonda told me that the fiber is different on some points. The frame is as stiff and reliable both ways. But fiber and manufacturing is more expensive on super light.
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Here is some more fire to the BB soup !
If you plan to use a DUB or 30mm spindle take a BSA.
If you plan to use a 24mm spindle or GXP(that sucks for bearing life) take the BB92.
So sad they do not provide BB386 frames( a wider PF30)
All the bikes I've built for friends and family(about 30) and my bikes(about 12,000km/y) are PF.
PF is lighter and if done right, trouble free.
BSA comes from the old times of metallic frames that were threaded directly, without any additional interface.
Here it is a tiny alloy shell that is bonded to the carbon.
On such a loaded area, it is simply a call for troubles.
Since I plan to have a DUB spindle I took BSA and SL(because I'm WW)
I'm just hoping Carbonda will offer a well aligned and robust BSA.
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Also for the press fit you need additional tools that add about $100 compared to BSA tools.
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Thanks all for advises… I think I’m going to order normal frame with BSA because it is easier to replace. I plan this frame as a spare so additional money savings also will be good.
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Also for the press fit you need additional tools that add about $100 compared to BSA tools.
or round about 25 € :)
https://www.bike-components.de/de/3min19sec/Innenlager-Einpresswerkzeug-fuer-GXP-24-mm-30-mm-und-DUB-p77521/
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+1 on carbonazza's experience that Pressfit can work well if you install it properly (activator and Loctite for pressfit).
But also +1 on that it's more hassle to remove if you need to - a nice feature of BSA.
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or round about 25 € :)
https://www.bike-components.de/de/3min19sec/Innenlager-Einpresswerkzeug-fuer-GXP-24-mm-30-mm-und-DUB-p77521/
That a good deal. You also need the Loctite and the bearing removal tool, another $40.
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In fairness you also need a BSA cup tool and mounting paste for the threads (though many may have these already).
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That a good deal. You also need the Loctite and the bearing removal tool, another $40.
Not anymore:
US $21.33 6％ Off | MUQZI Bicycle Bottom Bracket Install And Removal Tool Axle Disassembly For BB86/30/92/PF30 Mountain Bike Road Fixed Gear
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mN7lsfj
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Also for the press fit you need additional tools that add about $100 compared to BSA tools.
For the Ztto thread together or Wheels MFG thread together only the included wrench (or bb cup tool) is needed. :)
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For the Ztto thread together or Wheels MFG thread together only the included wrench (or bb cup tool) is needed. :)
and that's what I'm going for. But I'll definitely check the BB92 tolerances on my FM936 first before pressing it in. Want to know if I have to sand some microns off and use grese or if I have to use loctite
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They promised to make a refund on the cost of painting. I am quite satisfied)
I will test a new bike, I will share my impressions later.
(https://scontent.fiev2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/123320888_3441015532612630_5014911755859225282_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=2&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=N2-ky0E5FlIAX-Dvjub&_nc_ht=scontent.fiev2-1.fna&oh=e2db50491ea517fe716832b15ac00e65&oe=5FC02605)
Hello,
Is it a fox reactik shock ? 165x40 ?
How do it perform ? Did you manage to mount the remote ?
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and that's what I'm going for. But I'll definitely check the BB92 tolerances on my FM936 first before pressing it in. Want to know if I have to sand some microns off and use grese or if I have to use loctite
Hmm, wouldn't the o-ring grooves that Ztto's bottom brackets have create a mechanical bond/lock when using retaining compund, just wondering if it would be a problem when removing or is the retaining compound not strong enough?
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Hi Folks,
inspired by colt_seaver's building thread in a german forum, i spent the last days reading all 72 pages of this thread :o (who needs netflix? ;) )
I like the FM936 more and more... already have a spreadsheet set up to calculate price and weight of a bike based on this frame.
I stumbled across a few comments about poor climbing performance.
I am a fast tourer and marathon rider and my current "do it all" bike is a not-so-light carbon hardtail (IP-256SL (http://www.xmiplay.com/ProductDetails1671) if sb knows). I really like steep uphill challenges and eating altitude meters.
Problem is, i am a total coward going downhill: The smallest feel of sliding or the rear wheel getting light leads to a complete mental blockade. To overcome that, i think about using a more down-country or even trailbike-oriented bike. As i have a very long torso for my size, most common bikes on the market would be too short for me, so the FM936 should be just right for me.
Thing is, i don't really want to sacrifice uphill performance. So hands down, how much worse is the FM936's uphill performance compared to a hardtail?
Do you think the FM936 will meet my needs, i.e. giving me a fast touring resp. marathon bike with much more downhill confidence?
Is it worth the effort (money/weight) to have a rear shock remote lockout? I like standing up in the pedals for spontaneous give-it-all sprints. The only full suspension i rode the last years was a Giant Reign 2, wich was an absolute pain in the ass in this discipline (yes, different bike category).
Also, does sb have an idea how much weight is saved by opting for SL in size XL? Can i expect 200 g?
colt_seavers had 2182 g including rear axle for a standard XL.
I try to figure out where to save the most weight for the least money. Sub 11 kg with dropper post would be nice, but budget is limited.
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Hi Folks,
inspired by colt_seaver's building thread (https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/a-der-aufbau-ohne-namen-xc-leichtbau-fully-carbonda-fm936.925860/) in a german forum, i spent the last days reading all 72 pages of this thread :o (who needs netflix? ;) )
I like the FM936 more and more... already have a spreadsheet set up to calculate price and weight of a bike based on this frame.
I stumbled across a few comments about poor climbing performance.
I am a fast tourer and marathon rider and my current "do it all" bike is a not-so-light carbon hardtail (IP-256SL (http://www.xmiplay.com/ProductDetails1671) if sb knows). I really like steep uphill challenges and eating altitude meters.
Problem is, i am a total coward going downhill: The smallest feel of sliding or the rear wheel getting light leads to a complete mental blockade. To overcome that, i think about using a more down-country or even trailbike-oriented bike. As i have a very long torso for my size, most common bikes on the market would be too short for me, so the FM936 should be just right for me.
Thing is, i don't really want to sacrifice uphill performance. So hands down, how much worse is the FM936's uphill performance compared to a hardtail?
Do you think the FM936 will meet my needs, i.e. giving me a fast touring resp. marathon bike with much more downhill confidence?
Is it worth the effort (money/weight) to have a rear shock remote lockout? I like standing up in the pedals for spontaneous give-it-all sprints. The only full suspension i rode the last years was a Giant Reign 2, wich was an absolute pain in the ass in this discipline (yes, different bike category).
Also, does sb have an idea how much weight is saved by opting for SL in size XL? Can i expect 200 g?
colt_seavers had 2182 g including rear axle for a standard XL.
I try to figure out where to save the most weight for the least money. Sub 11 kg with dropper post would be nice, but budget is limited.
with open compression of the fork and shock absorber is worse than a hardtail by 10-15%. For sprints, of course, you need a lock. In general, the frame rides better than a hardtail, thanks to the steep angle of the seat tube it is much easier to ride upwards, the bike is very stable and comfortable downwards. I had to readjust my inner sense of speed, the carbonda seems to be slower, but it is faster, all because it does not shake. Highly recommend the frame for XC, with remote locking it will be a beast
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Is there a 42.5mm shock with remote lockout? I can't find one?
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Is there a 42.5mm shock with remote lockout? I can't find one?
Yes, there are some. Like the RS SIDLuxe Ultimate.
https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/rs-sidl-ult-a1
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Yes, there are some. Like the RS SIDLuxe Ultimate.
https://www.sram.com/en/rockshox/models/rs-sidl-ult-a1
I've seen that one, but I've never found it available for purchase
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with open compression of the fork and shock absorber is worse than a hardtail by 10-15%. For sprints, of course, you need a lock. In general, the frame rides better than a hardtail, thanks to the steep angle of the seat tube it is much easier to ride upwards, the bike is very stable and comfortable downwards. I had to readjust my inner sense of speed, the carbonda seems to be slower, but it is faster, all because it does not shake. Highly recommend the frame for XC, with remote locking it will be a beast
Okay, that sounds good so far! 8)
Is there a 42.5mm shock with remote lockout? I can't find one?
I've seen that one, but I've never found it available for purchase
SIDluxe Ultimate (https://www.bike24.de/p1397287.html?menu=1000,2,119) :) (just don't get confused by the sample picture)
With 40 mm you could also use a X-Fusion O2 pro RLR (i didn't find a shop for it) or a DT Swiss R 232 one.
While i'd be totally fine with a 40 mm shock , the SIDluxe perfectly matches the 120 mm SID fork i have on my list. So in case i really build up this bike, my choice is already made.
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Hi Folks,
inspired by colt_seaver's building thread (https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/a-der-aufbau-ohne-namen-xc-leichtbau-fully-carbonda-fm936.925860/) in a german forum, i spent the last days reading all 72 pages of this thread :o (who needs netflix? ;) )
I like the FM936 more and more... already have a spreadsheet set up to calculate price and weight of a bike based on this frame.
I stumbled across a few comments about poor climbing performance.
I am a fast tourer and marathon rider and my current "do it all" bike is a not-so-light carbon hardtail (IP-256SL (http://www.xmiplay.com/ProductDetails1671) if sb knows). I really like steep uphill challenges and eating altitude meters.
Problem is, i am a total coward going downhill: The smallest feel of sliding or the rear wheel getting light leads to a complete mental blockade. To overcome that, i think about using a more down-country or even trailbike-oriented bike. As i have a very long torso for my size, most common bikes on the market would be too short for me, so the FM936 should be just right for me.
Thing is, i don't really want to sacrifice uphill performance. So hands down, how much worse is the FM936's uphill performance compared to a hardtail?
Do you think the FM936 will meet my needs, i.e. giving me a fast touring resp. marathon bike with much more downhill confidence?
Is it worth the effort (money/weight) to have a rear shock remote lockout? I like standing up in the pedals for spontaneous give-it-all sprints. The only full suspension i rode the last years was a Giant Reign 2, wich was an absolute pain in the ass in this discipline (yes, different bike category).
Also, does sb have an idea how much weight is saved by opting for SL in size XL? Can i expect 200 g?
colt_seavers had 2182 g including rear axle for a standard XL.
I try to figure out where to save the most weight for the least money. Sub 11 kg with dropper post would be nice, but budget is limited.
A couple of answers for you in no particular order.
My current full squish (Evil Following MB) climbs better than my hard tail on 90% of the terrain I ride. Anything that isn't smooth, and the FS does better. Lots of rocky, rooty and rutted technical climbs where the FS does much better because it is so much better at maintaining tread contact. Set the suspension up correctly and I doubt you'd miss your HT on anything but the smoothest climbs.
I have never used the lockout, even on the street or smooth fire roads. However, my XC racing buddies use remote lockouts and both swear by them.
Carbonda shows 150 g difference for the SL in size M. I doubt you'll get 200 on an XL and even if you did, you could probably save more weight spending that money elsewhere.
This bike will shock you with how much better it feels going down than the typical XC HT. The geometry gives it so much stability. It's not an enduro, but drop the seat and point it down and have fun.
Finally, you won't hit 11 kg with a dropper unless you have lots of really lite parts already, friends who will sell you really lite parts on the cheap or you spend a bunch of money. Limited budget and lite weight don't really go together. Budget Chiner lite weight wheels, tires and cassette alone will cost you about $1400, add in fork cost and you're already at $3k with the frame. Of course, if you wanted an 11 kg factory built bike with similar geometry, it would cost you much more, Transition Spur, XX1 size M, 11.2 kg, $9k. https://www.transitionbikes.com/Bikes_Spur.cfm
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You can add the float DPS to that list if you are willing to have someone add the spacer for money to make it 42.5
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A couple of answers for you in no particular order.
My current full squish (Evil Following MB) climbs better than my hard tail on 90% of the terrain I ride. Anything that isn't smooth, and the FS does better. Lots of rocky, rooty and rutted technical climbs where the FS does much better because it is so much better at maintaining tread contact. Set the suspension up correctly and I doubt you'd miss your HT on anything but the smoothest climbs.
I have never used the lockout, even on the street or smooth fire roads. However, my XC racing buddies use remote lockouts and both swear by them.
Carbonda shows 150 g difference for the SL in size M. I doubt you'll get 200 on an XL and even if you did, you could probably save more weight spending that money elsewhere.
This bike will shock you with how much better it feels going down than the typical XC HT. The geometry gives it so much stability. It's not an enduro, but drop the seat and point it down and have fun.
Thanks a lot for your input! Just as i thought it would be. Anyway, I'll stick to the lockout for asphalt roads and finish line sprints ;)
It will alredy help a lot if i feel confident to try on my "i dont dare"-Passages. I think that's what i can expect from this bike. If it shocks me, i'll be ok with that.
Only tight corners might remain a problem, but one can't have everything.
In conclusion, i guess i will wait for my 300 h overwork to be payed at the end of the year and convert that into a new bike 8)
Until then, i'll think about a nice color to have the frame painted. I remember some some candy red anywhere in this thread...
Finally, you won't hit 11 kg with a dropper unless you have lots of really lite parts already, friends who will sell you really lite parts on the cheap or you spend a bunch of money. Limited budget and lite weight don't really go together.
Limited budget is a relative term ;) I thought about 3500€ (~4150 USD) and if it gets 200 bucks more, that's no big deal.
Also keep in mind that i don't think about a mini-enduro to do huge bikepark airtimes. So there's no need for bulletproof-style components.
With SID/SIDluxe, 1400 g wheelset based on chiner rims, Sram GX groupset, Shimano XT Brakes, OneUp Seatpost and Stuff like Handlebar, Saddle and Pedals coming from AliExpress, my spreatsheed says 3600 € and 10900 g at this point. Even with tubeless milk. Only thing that's missing by now is the shifting cables.
So i think it's not impossible - and i don't cry if the result is 11.1 kg.
Currently i wonder if Gripshift & Twistloc will fit with current Shimano brakes... i saw some Pics that don't look too well. Looks like trial & error, i guess.
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Currently i wonder if Gripshift & Twistloc will fit with current Shimano brakes... i saw some Pics that don't look too well. Looks like trial & error, i guess.
I have SID Select twistloc, fits well with shimano M8100. I'll send a pic tomorrow :)
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I have SID Select twistloc, fits well with shimano M8100. I'll send a pic tomorrow :)
Thanks in advance! Should help a lot :)
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@reddi: would you do one lockout lever for simultaneous front and rear lockout? Also, if you could share your spreadsheet, that would be super! I am thinking along the same lines as you and would appreciate the inspiration.
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I got 11.75kgs including pedals, stainless bottle cage, and a heavy saddle.
The weight of my XL SL w all included bits was 2098g.
I think this is an ideal marathon bike.
I am 170lbs and have run the Sidluxe shock at 200psi and 180psi. Still not getting close to 42.5mm stroke.
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Hi, here is my table of weight and price.
I would like to buy a 165x40 (or 42,5) SIDLuxe with remote, but I can't find it for sale... Or a DT Swiss 535 (all mountain) with "2 in 1" remote.
The bike will be around 11kg
(https://i.ibb.co/zWgY0fS/Sans-titre.png)
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@reddi: would you do one lockout lever for simultaneous front and rear lockout? Also, if you could share your spreadsheet, that would be super! I am thinking along the same lines as you and would appreciate the inspiration.
I think for a sprint you'd like to have a completely blocked suspension, so having to move two levers is unnecessary effort. Also, i can't imagine where to put two lockout levers at the handlebar with shifter, brake levers, seat post remote and bell. Plus, the Twistloc that comes with the Fork is perfectly suited to block both components simultaneously.
(Actually it will be a little complicated to block both suspensions with one standard Lever that pulls only one cable... ::))
Current state of my spreadsheet is attached. Adding cable housing made me exceed the 11 kg target >:(. I wonder where to save some weight with little effort. Any idea?
Those parts with questionmarks are not determinded yet, so price and weight is guessed. I take recommendations ;)
Also, i am thinking about a little wider rims (30 mm inner width instead of these 27 mm) and wider tires. Both would increase my wish to save weight somewhere.
EDIT: Just noticed that ZTTO M2 hubs are non-boost. The corresponding M1 hubs are boost, but come with centerlock. Keep in mind when looking for those hubs.
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Are you sure 387g for both front and rear brakes ?
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Damn, another pitfall.
At r2-bike i was too lazy to look at the pictures (or to use my brain :-[) and just scrolled down to the weight info. Sould have thought of people celebrating brakes that come for 200 g each without Disc and less than 400 g are too low for two not-so-light brakes.
Weight adds up... :(
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You might also consider adding :
- Stem spacer
- expander / star
- rim tape (30g / wheel)
- sealant (50mL / wheel is not enough i guess)
:-X
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I think for a sprint you'd like to have a completely blocked suspension, so having to move two levers is unnecessary effort. Also, i can't imagine where to put two lockout levers at the handlebar with shifter, brake levers, seat post remote and bell. Plus, the Twistloc that comes with the Fork is perfectly suited to block both components simultaneously.
(Actually it will be a little complicated to block both suspensions with one standard Lever that pulls only one cable... ::))
Current state of my spreadsheet is attached. Adding cable housing made me exceed the 11 kg target >:(. I wonder where to save some weight with little effort. Any idea?
Those parts with questionmarks are not determinded yet, so price and weight is guessed. I take recommendations ;)
Also, i am thinking about a little wider rims (30 mm inner width instead of these 27 mm) and wider tires. Both would increase my wish to save weight somewhere.
EDIT: Just noticed that ZTTO M2 hubs are non-boost. The corresponding M1 hubs are boost, but come with centerlock. Keep in mind when looking for those hubs.
now you leaked my build thread. wanted to post it here in the near future. Don't wanted to have too many people seeing what I'm up to.
our builds definitely have a lot of parallelism.
The wheelset ist almost 100% identical, only you will use brass and I will try aluminum nipples. I know of the electrochemical reaction of aluminum an carbon when water or milk comes into play, but I got word from a very professional wheel builder that with the black Sapim Polyax aluminium nipples they don't have any corrosion problems anymore. I will trust that saying and will also try keep my bike as dry as possible, so the nipples don't see any water.
you could save 40g there
you could save around 60g with extralite grips
you could save a lot with another crank
like others said, dont forget all these small parts. They will also ruin your weight list
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Focus on the unsprung items: wheels, cassette, rotors and bolts, calipers and bolts.
For the sprung weight, switch from IPA to red wine and ride everyday.
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...calipers and bolts...
Do you put Ti bolts on your calipers ?
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Do you put Ti bolts on your calipers ?
I do!
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Better saving weight on rotating parts.
You can save 70-100g on the cassette for 100 € (9-50T from ali)
180g on the bracket
100g on pedals
80-100g on bar/stem for 80€ (integrated from ali)
This is the only thing i can see with reasonable budget.
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Do you put Ti bolts on your calipers ?
I am not sure what came with XOs from ten years ago, I swapped them over to Level Ultimate I am using now as the ones I picked up did not come with bolts. I need to get shorter bolts because the Ultimates don't use the crazy conical washer system.
There is a risk of the bolt seizing so ti-prep or something similar is important.
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Better saving weight on rotating parts.
You can save 70-100g on the cassette for 100 € (9-50T from ali)
180g on the bracket
100g on pedals
80-100g on bar/stem for 80€ (integrated from ali)
This is the only thing i can see with reasonable budget.
I echo QuentinLL's comments! I got the XT cassette for this reason. According to r2bike, You can save 60g between XT 12s and SLX 12s for less than 35 euro.
However, Rotating weight makes a trivial difference unless you're saving 1kg or such per wheel. https://www.reddit.com/r/Velo/comments/29oedw/the_case_against_rotating_weight/
This post sums up my own thoughs as an engineer! :) Ironically, rotational weight could be useful on short sharp climbs! It is the absolute mass of the bike that one should primarily focus on.
Unless you're commenting on unsprung weight which is more of a kinematic isssue rather than rotational.
Carbon rims will make a difference in the bike's handling feeling no doubt, and will reduce weight overall! I love my 30mm internal btlos wheel with XT hubs (silent!) .
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You might also consider adding :
- Stem spacer
- expander / star
- rim tape (30g / wheel)
- sealant (50mL / wheel is not enough i guess)
Hi, you have good eyes ;)
I don't need stem spacers, cockpit shall be as low as possible.
Expander is put together with headset, those are two sets to be bought seperately.
With non-drilled rim bottoms you don't need rim tape ;) But you're right, as am not totally sure on that yet.
and Wolfpack tires are designed to keep the air safely on theyr own (wich makes them a little heavier), so you don't need that much sealant.
now you leaked my build thread. wanted to post it here in the near future. Don't wanted to have too many people seeing what I'm up to.
I really apologize, i didn't think you would mind people seeing what you're doing when posting it into a forum.
I will trust that saying and will also try keep my bike as dry as possible, so the nipples don't see any water.
you could save 40g there
you could save around 60g with extralite grips
you could save a lot with another crank
like others said, dont forget all these small parts. They will also ruin your weight list
Ok, i'm no fan of rainy wheather neither; but worrying about a mountainbike getting wet feels totally wrong to me. I usually clean my bikes with the high pressure cleaner. Maybe i'll have holes in the rim and combine Alu nipples with rim tape, so i can do an inspection after 2 years. Wich would be kind of equal in weight.
Extralite Grips may be light, but don't feel good to me. For now, i was always running ergon lock-on grips. We'll see what can be done there.
Another crank is a good idea. That GX Crankset doesn't look too well anyway.
Focus on the unsprung items: wheels, cassette, rotors and bolts, calipers and bolts.
For the sprung weight, switch from IPA to red wine and ride everyday.
Haha, indeed i still have 3-4 kg more than i wish to have. But that will be overcome until spring.
I saw that a KCNC or Garbaruk cassette saves a good 100 g, i'll go read some reviews about them.
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Better saving weight on rotating parts.
You can save 70-100g on the cassette for 100 € (9-50T from ali)
180g on the bracket
100g on pedals
80-100g on bar/stem for 80€ (integrated from ali)
This is the only thing i can see with reasonable budget.
Hi, at Ali i only find black 9-50 Kassettes wich are heavier than GX and rainbow-shiny ones that ruin my eyes. Did you find the lighter version looking ok somewhere?
Bracket is what i'm reseaching at the Moment. If you know something from Ali, let me know.
Wich SPD pedals do you know that safe 100 g compared to the 272 g XLC? That's already 40 g less than XTR... (and for that price i can afford a new set every year)
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...With non-drilled rim bottoms you don't need rim tape...
Since we are at milligrams. A rim without holes will weight a bit more.
I'll leave to you to compute the weight difference: no-holes vs. holes + rim tape ;)
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@reddi: are these carbonbeam rims? They seem extremely light for the size. Curious if people have experience with them.
100% subjectively: I don't go with chinese hubs anymore. DT Swiss 350 (if budget is a concern) or 240 are so reliable, serviceable, and parts are easy to find. On my wheels with novatec hubs my bearings rusted very quickly after a season of gravel and CX.
I've also gone from 6-bolt to centerlock hubs. It's just so much easier to mount / dismount discs when you have to (travel, etc).
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I echo QuentinLL's comments! I got the XT cassette for this reason. According to r2bike, You can save 60g between XT 12s and SLX 12s for less than 35 euro.
However, Rotating weight makes a trivial difference unless you're saving 1kg or such per wheel. https://www.reddit.com/r/Velo/comments/29oedw/the_case_against_rotating_weight/
This post sums up my own thoughs as an engineer! :) Ironically, rotational weight could be useful on short sharp climbs! It is the absolute mass of the bike that one should primarily focus on.
Unless you're commenting on unsprung weight which is more of a kinematic isssue rather than rotational.
Carbon rims will make a difference in the bike's handling feeling no doubt, and will reduce weight overall! I love my 30mm internal btlos wheel with XT hubs (silent!) .
Yes, referring to full suspension and keeping the bike powered and going the direction you would like to go. Moto GP philosophy of unsprung weight.
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Since we are at milligrams. A rim without holes will weight a bit more.
I'll leave to you to compute the weight difference: no-holes vs. holes + rim tape ;)
That was more kind of a quick excuse because i was embarrassed, so don't take it too serious ;)
@reddi: are these carbonbeam rims? They seem extremely light for the size. Curious if people have experience with them.
100% subjectively: I don't go with chinese hubs anymore. DT Swiss 350 (if budget is a concern) or 240 are so reliable, serviceable, and parts are easy to find. On my wheels with novatec hubs my bearings rusted very quickly after a season of gravel and CX.
I've also gone from 6-bolt to centerlock hubs. It's just so much easier to mount / dismount discs when you have to (travel, etc).
Yes, those rims come from carbonbeam. As i weigh 80-85 kg (plus camelbak) and do touring and marathons, I think Rims wich are spec'd for 110 kg riders and "CC, AM, Trail, Enduro" Application should be ok. But it might be a good point, i should do a little research.
I had no issues with novatec hubs so far. Needed a bearing exchange after 3 Years, wich i feel totally fine with.
Centerlock vs. 6-Bolt is a minor question to me, i just like the latter more.
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Hi, at Ali i only find black 9-50 Kassettes wich are heavier than GX and rainbow-shiny ones that ruin my eyes. Did you find the lighter version looking ok somewhere?
Bracket is what i'm reseaching at the Moment. If you know something from Ali, let me know.
Wich SPD pedals do you know that safe 100 g compared to the 272 g XLC? That's already 40 g less than XTR... (and for that price i can afford a new set every year)
I bought a rainbow, this is not that shinny...
There is gold as well 375-390g : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000804257262.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.67473c002KjjXv&mp=1
Or 10-50 grey 360g : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/4000297745012.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.67473c002KjjXv&mp=1
For bracket => I bought a Sram XX1 (secound hand). I don't know if there are light / good quality carbon brackets on ali...
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for what it's worth I've had very good experience with light bicycle rims. Their weights for gravel and road are competitive, but their 27mm and 30mm internal diameter rims are heavier, which has made me wonder how robust a sub 400g rim that's that wide can be. It would be great to hear people's experiences.
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A question for those who've built up the bike with SID 35 Ultimate/Select: any issues with knocking due to loose bushings or damper leaking oil? I am about to pull the trigger on one but reports of bad QC are scaring me a little.
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For those like me who where wondering where to buy a remote controled SIDLuxe. Impossible :
(https://i.ibb.co/cg8KJHj/Sans-titre.png)
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A question for those who've built up the bike with SID 35 Ultimate/Select: any issues with knocking due to loose bushings or damper leaking oil? I am about to pull the trigger on one but reports of bad QC are scaring me a little.
On French forum, a lot of people reported such problems on the first SID 35 released. They send their forks for after sale service, Rockshox changed the bushing and problem solved.
I don't know if Rockshox solved it on first mount.
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@reddi: are these carbonbeam rims? They seem extremely light for the size. Curious if people have experience with them.
100% subjectively: I don't go with chinese hubs anymore. DT Swiss 350 (if budget is a concern) or 240 are so reliable, serviceable, and parts are easy to find. On my wheels with novatec hubs my bearings rusted very quickly after a season of gravel and CX.
I've also gone from 6-bolt to centerlock hubs. It's just so much easier to mount / dismount discs when you have to (travel, etc).
bearings should be easy to change. Still way more cheap than DT
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For those like me who where wondering where to buy a remote controled SIDLuxe. Impossible :
So I'm courious what Bike24.de will send me the next days ??? At least i was able to order a 165x42.5 remote one.
There's still one in stock, shipping to australia is 20 € ;)
Meanwhile, i think about color. Painted or black link? Black or blue fork?
Well, best option will be to have a painted link and if it looks wrong, i can still order an unpainted one. Blue vs. black fork can be determinded when the Frame is here... just order both and return one.
For the red tone, i sent Adam this picture (https://cdn1.mecum.com/auctions/ch1018/ch1018-334002/images/1-1536085977264@2x.jpg?1538428366000) as reference. We'll see how it turns out.
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A question for those who've built up the bike with SID 35 Ultimate/Select: any issues with knocking due to loose bushings or damper leaking oil? I am about to pull the trigger on one but reports of bad QC are scaring me a little.
I have the SID Select 35 remote 2021 and its working great!! :)
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So I'm courious what Bike24.de will send me the next days ??? At least i was able to order a 165x42.5 remote one.
There's still one in stock, shipping to australia is 20 € ;)
No sure but I think :
this one is remote : https://www.bike24.de/p1397492.html
this one is lever : https://www.bike24.de/p1397287.html (wrong picture)
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Aww okay. That might be it. Damn! :-X
We'll see.
How difficult is it to travel a rear shock or to change a lockout lever to remote?
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So I'm courious what Bike24.de will send me the next days ??? At least i was able to order a 165x42.5 remote one.
There's still one in stock, shipping to australia is 20 € ;)
Meanwhile, i think about color. Painted or black link? Black or blue fork?
Well, best option will be to have a painted link and if it looks wrong, i can still order an unpainted one. Blue vs. black fork can be determinded when the Frame is here... just order both and return one.
For the red tone, i sent Adam this picture (https://cdn1.mecum.com/auctions/ch1018/ch1018-334002/images/1-1536085977264@2x.jpg?1538428366000) as reference. We'll see how it turns out.
I vote for :
-black fork with black link or
-black fork with red stickers with red link
Trek factory racing runs with red frames and blue fork, i don't find this combo very elegant https://scontent-cdt1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/122226975_2132655636879040_8585127515686445313_o.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=2&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=2zWc_70EB3AAX_pYPX5&_nc_ht=scontent-cdt1-1.xx&oh=624bf76554e1ff63014353abc02111fe&oe=5FDD1081
I highly prefer the full red combo made by dangerholm https://www.pinkbike.com/news/bike-check-dangerholms-insanely-light-scott-spark.html
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The SID remote and XT m8100 brakes :)
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Tank you! Looks to be ok so far. :)
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theirishrider, do yourself a favour and get one of these from aliexpress ZTTO MTB Dropper Post Lever Seatpost Dropper Bike Adjust Seat Post Drop Mechanical Remote Control Lever Universal Shifter Style
Sorry my links to ali seldom work, hence just the title for you to google.
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theirishrider, do yourself a favour and get one of these from aliexpress ZTTO MTB Dropper Post Lever Seatpost Dropper Bike Adjust Seat Post Drop Mechanical Remote Control Lever Universal Shifter Style
Sorry my links to ali seldom work, hence just the title for you to google.
hehe thanks! Is it better than my twist grip? I quite like the twist! :)
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I don't know if it will function better than the twist grip but it certainly won't shove your cable out 90 degrees from the bars like the twist grip does.
(To be honest I didn't even notice it was a twist grip, I was so shocked by the position of the cable housing.)
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I think if you could go with a size M, but with a lot of seatpost outside!
I am on a 75.5cm seat height in size M, the measurements of the frame are long!
Hi Risckys,
Could you post a pic of your bike, please?
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The SID remote and XT m8100 brakes :)
Thanks. It is a 2 position ? Open / closed ?
If you half-twist the lock, there is no position "half locked" ?
I am very interested in that twist lock, but I think that I would use a 90° cable guide
(https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.universalcycles.com%2Fshopping%2Fproduct_details.php%3Fid%3D91062&psig=AOvVaw22L7kTbk3TxlDHGfQUkBzy&ust=1605947225288000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAIQjRxqFwoTCODAhOHZkO0CFQAAAAAdAAAAABAq)
https://www.hi5bikes.fi/tuotteet/712494/race-face-dropper-post-universal-remote-noodle
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Hey all, I just read through this whole thread to help with a FM936 I'm doing. Thanks for all the helpful info!
Quick note for people looking at a SID select or ultimate. Alltricks have the SID ultimate with lockout available for only €730 as part fo their black friday deals:
https://www.alltricks.com/F-11918-fourches/P-1495461-rockshox_sid_ultimate_race_day_29___39___39__remote_fork___boost_15x110_mm___offset_44___blue_2021
@reddi, nice build list. Using the above you could save 150g (based on R2 bike weights) for only €100 extra.
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Thanks. It is a 2 position ? Open / closed ?
If you half-twist the lock, there is no position "half locked" ?
I am very interested in that twist lock, but I think that I would use a 90° cable guide
https://www.hi5bikes.fi/tuotteet/712494/race-face-dropper-post-universal-remote-noodle
It's 2 position :) There's a 45deg version in the SID box! Just the straight version worked better for the cable line!
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Hey all, I just read through this whole thread to help with a FM936 I'm doing. Thanks for all the helpful info!
Quick note for people looking at a SID select or ultimate. Alltricks have the SID ultimate with lockout available for only €730 as part fo their black friday deals:
https://www.alltricks.com/F-11918-fourches/P-1495461-rockshox_sid_ultimate_race_day_29___39___39__remote_fork___boost_15x110_mm___offset_44___blue_2021
@reddi, nice build list. Using the above you could save 150g (based on R2 bike weights) for only €100 extra.
Great thanks, I just bought one 749€ black with twist lock.
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Hey all, I just read through this whole thread to help with a FM936 I'm doing. Thanks for all the helpful info!
Quick note for people looking at a SID select or ultimate. Alltricks have the SID ultimate with lockout available for only €730 as part fo their black friday deals:
https://www.alltricks.com/F-11918-fourches/P-1495461-rockshox_sid_ultimate_race_day_29___39___39__remote_fork___boost_15x110_mm___offset_44___blue_2021
@reddi, nice build list. Using the above you could save 150g (based on R2 bike weights) for only €100 extra.
Hi, thanks for that link! Didn't realize that weight significant difference... :o
Too bad that deal is only for the blue one. Although i like that blue tone, i highly doubt it will fit to the dark candy red frame.
If i could return the fork after receiving the frame, I'd just buy it and give it a try. But since i just ordered the frame this day, there is no doubt it won't be with me within 14 days.
So i'll keep looking for a nice black friday deal on the black one. 730 € would really suit me... 8)
@Quentin: Yep, the SIDluxe 165x42.5 from Bike24 has no remote :-X
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Hi, thanks for that link! Didn't realize that weight significant difference... :o
Too bad that deal is only for the blue one. Although i like that blue tone, i highly doubt it will fit to the dark candy red frame.
If i could return the fork after receiving the frame, I'd just buy it and give it a try. But since i just ordered the frame this day, there is no doubt it won't be with me within 14 days.
So i'll keep looking for a nice black friday deal on the black one. 730 € would really suit me... 8)
@Quentin: Yep, the SIDluxe 165x42.5 from Bike24 has no remote :-X
Yeah, I think the blue will work well with my standard black frame, but I get that it might not look great with the red. If I see any black ones at a similar price point I'll post them!
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Hello,
I'm returning to this forum 5 years after my first Chinese- a CS-041 hardtail from CarbonSpeed. That bike is still going strong despite a couple of crashes that required diy carbon repairs.
This time I have been looking for a modern geometry full-suspension frame, and this one looks great. I put in my order with Adam for a large, standard weight with axle, headset, extra derailleur hanger and shipping by sea for a total of $804. I'm 179 cm / 5'10.5" and usually ride a large, so hopefully I will adapt to the fit well.
I'm shooting for a moderate weight and budget using a combination of new, used, and NOS parts. So far I've got a 2018 Fox Factory 34 coming (I'll have to adjust the travel to 120 mm), as well as the same ebay Fox DPS 165 x 42.5 shock that lots of others are using. I also just ordered BTLOS M-i29A rims. Over the next several weeks I'll search out hubs, drivetrain and brakes. Thinking of going Shimano XT 11 speed for discount prices.
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My build... I took what I had, so it’s I mix of “old” Shimano and SRAM parts. I will change to a 120 mm fork and inside dropper coming days. Did also print some fake Stevens decals.. think it looks nice :)
I’m 180 cm and ordered an L frame. Use an 40 mm steam. Have just done a short ride but the size feels perfect. I Will come back with more feedback after that i have changed to 120 fork and done some more rides.
I normally ride XC marathon on a Scoot Spark RC900 WC. My plan is to use the 936 as winter training bike (live in Sweden and the winter is soon here), and next season as an fun trail bike.
Dapha, can you compare the handling/ride characteristics of the Spark RC900 to the FM936? im currently trying to decide between the FM936 SL and the FM258-B which has virtually identical geometry to the 2021 Spark RC900. Seems Size Large in both weighs 2000g. ill be using it mostly on gravel and some trails the the climbs here on the west coast of norway go straight up, often brutally steep. So want something efficient for climbing and fast flat gravel.
Thanks!
link to the FM258-B
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000357306715.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.5f564d80wZq29y&algo_pvid=ceebf67f-67f3-4db2-9f6e-5abc4ab871da&algo_expid=ceebf67f-67f3-4db2-9f6e-5abc4ab871da-0&btsid=0bb0623b16055224969934309eb5b8&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
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I'm shooting for a moderate weight and budget using a combination of new, used, and NOS parts. So far I've got a 2018 Fox Factory 34 coming (I'll have to adjust the travel to 120 mm), as well as the same ebay Fox DPS 165 x 42.5 shock that lots of others are using. I also just ordered BTLOS M-i29A rims. Over the next several weeks I'll search out hubs, drivetrain and brakes. Thinking of going Shimano XT 11 speed for discount prices.
Cool i have those wheels, with 2.4 MAXXIS they work so well, you'll not burp them for sure. So much steering authority. I recommend the m8100 hubs if you like them silent!
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340 miles so far. Still works.
My intuition tells me the lockout for the SidLuxe will be available AFTER most of the 2021 complete bikes are sold (that are stocked with the SidLuxe). The service instructions include swapping the lockout and they did this to share with shops and hopefully us. My advice would be to talk with your Sram dealer in person and get one ‘ordered’.
The matte finish on the bare frame is not as durable as the 3k weave of my Flyxii.
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Couple more questions and notes:
Is the consensus to go with 170 cranks on this frame due to the low BB? 175 are a lot easier to find.
I would have preferred BB92, since it has been trouble-free on my two other carbon frames, but BSA was all Adam had available in large standard weight. The good news is that I already have two unused Shimano BSA BB's that came with cranks on my other bikes.
I already have a 740 mm carbon bar and 70, 80, and 90 mm stems. I'm guessing the 70 mm stem would be the best starting point, but might need to go shorter. Any suggestions?
Lastly, I was thinking about trying the Novatec 791/792 hubs due to the low cost. Anyone have experience with them? Alternatively, but for a bit more money, I've had good results with Bitex hubs from BikeHubStore. I always use Sapim Laser spokes.
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These Novatec are really good, I have them on 2 pairs that I ride since 2 and 3 years, and they are always turning smooth.
For spokes, you should try Pillar Xtra 1420 : pretty cheap (around 1€ per spoke), very light, and imo they offer a great reliability to the wheel because they can't twist under tension.
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My intuition tells me the lockout for the SidLuxe will be available AFTER most of the 2021 complete bikes are sold (that are stocked with the SidLuxe). The service instructions include swapping the lockout and they did this to share with shops and hopefully us. My advice would be to talk with your Sram dealer in person and get one ‘ordered’.
You mean, it might be possible to change between Lever and Remote? Would be nice indeed.
I saw on Sram website that the RS Deluxe Ultimate Remote (https://www.sram.com/de/rockshox/models/rs-dlx-ultr-b2) has 165x42.5 in it's size listing. So i E-Mailed to a few Bike Stores, asking if they can order it. We'll see...
Otherwise i'll take that Fox one and wait until your prognosis gets real ;D
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These Novatec are really good, I have them on 2 pairs that I ride since 2 and 3 years, and they are always turning smooth.
For spokes, you should try Pillar Xtra 1420 : pretty cheap (around 1€ per spoke), very light, and imo they offer a great reliability to the wheel because they can't twist under tension.
Thanks for the feedback! Where did you order your Novatec hubs and Pillar spokes?
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Too bad that deal is only for the blue one. Although i like that blue tone, i highly doubt it will fit to the dark candy red frame.
729 € for blue with twist lock
749 € for black with twist lock
I bought a black but there were only a 2 in stock when i paid.
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Thanks for the feedback! Where did you order your Novatec hubs and Pillar spokes?
Just don't use Pillar alloy nipples.
They disintegrate and seize with the spoke after a couple of years.
They may have improved during the last 5 years.
Either use Sapim ones, or brass if you don't mind the grams.
Recently when looking to build the cheapest wheels possible with Lightbicycle.
The price between the Pillar 1420 and Sapim CX-Ray wasn't a big difference, about 30-40€ if I remember well.
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Couple more questions and notes:
Is the consensus to go with 170 cranks on this frame due to the low BB? 175 are a lot easier to find.
I would have preferred BB92, since it has been trouble-free on my two other carbon frames, but BSA was all Adam had available in large standard weight. The good news is that I already have two unused Shimano BSA BB's that came with cranks on my other bikes.
I already have a 740 mm carbon bar and 70, 80, and 90 mm stems. I'm guessing the 70 mm stem would be the best starting point, but might need to go shorter. Any suggestions?
Lastly, I was thinking about trying the Novatec 791/792 hubs due to the low cost. Anyone have experience with them? Alternatively, but for a bit more money, I've had good results with Bitex hubs from BikeHubStore. I always use Sapim Laser spokes.
Definitely 170mm for me with this frame. The BB is among the lowest I've ridden. If you mostly ride groomed trails, by all means, run 175mm if you wish. Where I ride the 5mm difference (along with low profile SPDs) is significant with this one.
I am 175cm tall with long arms on a medium FM936. I am running an 800mm bar x 40mm stem. The bar is getting chopped down to 760-770mm soon. I wouldn't want a stem longer than 50mm with this frame unless I am going for an XC racing oriented build (I have a Cannondale Scalpel for that, so don't really want two similar bikes).
Novatec are OK. Not the best longevity, but good value for money. If going for a budget build look into ZTTO hubs (I think someone posted about them earlier in this thread). I built a set of wheels for a friend with ZTTO boost hubs and they seem decent.
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All components were bought on Aliexpress, and for nipples I use Sapim Polyax. They're in alloy but anodization is very strong to avoid corrosion.
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729 € for blue with twist lock
749 € for black with twist lock
I bought a black but there were only a 2 in stock when i paid.
Too bad they don't ship to the US.
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You mean, it might be possible to change between Lever and Remote? Would be nice indeed.
I saw on Sram website that the RS Deluxe Ultimate Remote (https://www.sram.com/de/rockshox/models/rs-dlx-ultr-b2) has 165x42.5 in it's size listing. So i E-Mailed to a few Bike Stores, asking if they can order it. We'll see...
Otherwise i'll take that Fox one and wait until your prognosis gets real ;D
Has anyone tried the new Manitou Mara? You can get both 160x40 and 160x45. I'm guessing with some shims or spacers you could get 42.5. it's also very similar to the mccleod and should be able to put a remote on it
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Hi.
Yes. with installing it some problems. The cable outlet is directed downward. I used a flexible tube for V- brake. To prevent her from rubbing a hole in the frame, you need to use a rubber protector.
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729 € for blue with twist lock
749 € for black with twist lock
I bought a black but there were only a 2 in stock when i paid.
So i got the other one - when i paid, there was 1 in stock ;)
(Didn't want to disappoint anybody, so i didn't tell in this thread)
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What's the minimum steerer tube length that will work with this frame? I have a good deal on a Fox Factory 34, but the steerer tube is only 6".
Edit: I should add that I ordered a large with the 120 mm head tube.
Does anyone have the stack height of the headset included with the frame? Is it a zero stack?
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Yes, here is my medium frame with 165x37.5mm fitted:
(https://i.imgur.com/jKpAiS0.jpg)
Where did you get it? I can not find one Deluxe/Sidluxe in 165x 37.5/40/42,5 with remote!
I want a RockShox rear to match the front Sid 35 120
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What's the minimum steerer tube length that will work with this frame? I have a good deal on a Fox Factory 34, but the steerer tube is only 6".
Edit: I should add that I ordered a large with the 120 mm head tube.
Does anyone have the stack height of the headset included with the frame? Is it a zero stack?
very close to zero, max maybe 4mm or so (from memory). I will measure with my caliper unless anyone can beat me to it.
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Where did you get it? I can not find one Deluxe/Sidluxe in 165x 37.5/40/42,5 with remote!
I want a RockShox rear to match the front Sid 35 120
That is not a SidLuxe.
Here is a 165x42.5 Deluxe RL Trunnion:
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2126281379?gclid=CjwKCAiA2O39BRBjEiwApB2Ikg-P-37vVFUxdupiAYnLSBTwBMzLtxP419pvJXe5mNabXUNDTcVieRoCrsUQAvD_BwE
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very close to zero, max maybe 4mm or so (from memory). I will measure with my caliper unless anyone can beat me to it.
That would be great - if you can confirm the stack height is <=4 mm, then I think it will work with a low stack height stem (<=30 mm). Head tube length + headset + stem: 120 + 4 + 30 = 154 mm. Steerer tube length = 6" = 152.4 mm.
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I would simply see who makes the lowest stack headset, if the fork is worth it. Slamthatstem also have super low headset caps.
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That is not a SidLuxe.
Here is a 165x42.5 Deluxe RL Trunnion:
https://www.modernbike.com/product-2126281379?gclid=CjwKCAiA2O39BRBjEiwApB2Ikg-P-37vVFUxdupiAYnLSBTwBMzLtxP419pvJXe5mNabXUNDTcVieRoCrsUQAvD_BwE
Thanks
But I want a shock with remote! ;)
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Thanks
But I want a shock with remote! ;)
Me too! But it seems that RockShox does not offer Deluxe Ultimate Shocks for the Aftermarket. The only 165 trunnion shock that RockShock has on theyr website is a Deluxe Ultimate Remote. So i think one has to wait for a used one.
Might be a dumbass question, but if i buy a Fox DPS 165x45, i can insert one of these (https://www.foxracingshox.de/5469/spacer-metric-travel.360-id-x.550-od-x-2.5mm-tlg-6061-black-ano)and then i have a 165x42.5, right?
Another question: Where does the remote cable come from (if used)? Does it exit the frame at the same spot as brake hose and derailleur cable? Because i think you need a shock that accepts a remote cable comping from the piston end.
Some shocks with remote have that cable coming from the "upper" end wich is bolted towards the BB in the FM 936...
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Might be a dumbass question, but if i buy a Fox DPS 165x45, i can insert one of these (https://www.foxracingshox.de/5469/spacer-metric-travel.360-id-x.550-od-x-2.5mm-tlg-6061-black-ano)and then i have a 165x42.5, right?
To reduce the travel of a Fox I'm pretty sure you need to do a full rebuild to get the travel limiting spacer in there. I had asked about doing the same thing to a Fox Nude shock off a Scott Spark and I was told it can only be done with a full rebuild. I know the Nude is a little different but I think the travel limiting is the same.
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To reduce the travel of a Fox I'm pretty sure you need to do a full rebuild to get the travel limiting spacer in there. I had asked about doing the same thing to a Fox Nude shock off a Scott Spark and I was told it can only be done with a full rebuild. I know the Nude is a little different but I think the travel limiting is the same.
If you go back me and the others had a huge conversation about this (i know it's alot of forum) but if you search my posts you'll see it. Yes, you need a full rebuild. But it's wayy easier to make a split ring from mild steel (bend and then crimp) or nylon and push it over the shaft and will for all intents and purposes work the same. This requires you to just screw the air can off which takes 1 min or so. One guys did this with a steel ring! Most of us have no problem with the 42.5 shocks.
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...But I want a shock with remote! ;)
Are you European ?
One of the first review of the couple Ultimate fork/shock I saw on youtube was with one(the) product manager.
And they had good fun, mocking Europeans that absolutely wanted a lock.
I'm one too, but will try without. Since it appears to be cultural 8)
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Are you European ?
One of the first review of the couple Ultimate fork/shock I saw on youtube was with one(the) product manager.
And they had good fun, mocking Europeans that absolutely wanted a lock.
I'm one too, but will try without. Since it appears to be cultural 8)
Yes, European
I don´t think it is only cultural. I have a 150/160mm bike without remote and is very funny, I like so much, but I will use the fm936 to race XC, and I always use remote in my XC race bikes.
;)
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If you go back me and the others had a huge conversation about this (i know it's alot of forum) but if you search my posts you'll see it. Yes, you need a full rebuild. But it's wayy easier to make a split ring from mild steel (bend and then crimp) or nylon and push it over the shaft and will for all intents and purposes work the same. This requires you to just screw the air can off which takes 1 min or so. One guys did this with a steel ring! Most of us have no problem with the 42.5 shocks.
Thanks, that's what i was puzzled about. I could get a 165x45 shock, wich is undoubtedly too much.
Are you European ?
Well, i was not asked but i feel addressed, too ;)
Yes, i am european (German, for further jokes).
But i think it's more about what you want to make out of this bike. If you want a tourer/trailbike, there is indeed no use for a lockout.
But for me, i want a marathon jetbike. I dont want the the suspension to bump when i stand up in the pedals to zoom up an asphalt road or when racing a finish line sprint. I know, that won't make a major difference to my finishing time, but i hate that bumpy feeling. For me, the rear suspension is primarily to enable seated (=efficient) pedaling on easy trails or grass strips. Second, to make downhill riding feel safer.
Do non-european riders use lockouts on UCI marathon races? I don't know.
Anyway. I've ordered the same Fox shock wich is used by most users here. I'll see if i can live without a lockout.
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These will be available at some point for the SidLUXE. I believe the 90 is the best entry point for the cable.
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I am very happy with the behavior of this frame, it is what I was looking for for geometry. Later we will change wheels, fork and cranks.
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How does this frame perform as an XC race bike?
Im particularly interested to hear how it climbs on really steep climbs. I would fit a lockout front and rear but I can figure out form the Geometry chart if the front wheel will be more likely to lift up and loose traction because of the long reach and slack head angle, or if the bike will be more planted on climbs than most XC bikes due to the really steep seat angle which might place your body weight further forward relative to the BB than a more traditional XC geometry would. currently riding an A036 , saddle slammed forward. That bike has never felt good to me.
I was also considering the FM258-B-SL which is the Scott Spark copy and weighs under 2kg in size Large. But it doesn't take a Trunnion shock and isn't available until the end of January. I need to buy a new shock anyway so figure it makes more sense to buy a trunnion shock that i will be able to use in the next frame in 5 years time. My current Monarch XX shock leaks hydraulic lockout fluid at the shock so i cant lock it.
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How does this frame perform as an XC race bike?
Im particularly interested to hear how it climbs on really steep climbs. I would fit a lockout front and rear but I can figure out form the Geometry chart if the front wheel will be more likely to lift up and loose traction because of the long reach and slack head angle, or if the bike will be more planted on climbs than most XC bikes due to the really steep seat angle which might place your body weight further forward relative to the BB than a more traditional XC geometry would. currently riding an A036 , saddle slammed forward. That bike has never felt good to me.
I was also considering the FM258-B-SL which is the Scott Spark copy and weighs under 2kg in size Large. But it doesn't take a Trunnion shock and isn't available until the end of January. I need to buy a new shock anyway so figure it makes more sense to buy a trunnion shock that i will be able to use in the next frame in 5 years time. My current Monarch XX shock leaks hydraulic lockout fluid at the shock so i cant lock it.
This frame is a really good climber. Better than I thought it would. I would say it climbs as well as my 2017 Scalpel. I have some silly steep climbs on my trails and I actually enjoy climbing :)
Add front and rear lockouts and you'll have yourself an XC racing weapon.
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This frame is a really good climber. Better than I thought it would. I would say it climbs as well as my 2017 Scalpel. I have some silly steep climbs on my trails and I actually enjoy climbing :)
Add front and rear lockouts and you'll have yourself an XC racing weapon.
thats what i needed to hear! thanks!
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I bought this frame the other day.
It size is M and I am 177 cm tall.
I also had it painted.
It uses Shimano / Sram mix components, SR Suntour 120mm boost fork and SR Suntour trunnion mount 165mm x 40mm R shock units.
The wheelset is hand assembled by me, XT hubs and Carbon Rims. And It equipped GIANT dropper seatpost 125mm.
The bike weight is just 12 kilograms without pedals, and bottle cage.
There was no major problem with the assembly.
The assembly work went very smoothly.
I haven't ride on the trail yet, but I'm going to the trail on February so I want to write my impressions.
@kisuke3 I just found your post and I really like your paint colour. Can you tell me what paint code you used ? Thank you very much.
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Just needs brakes bleeding and dropper cable adjustment, love it!!
(https://myalbum.com/photo/R2fi5Qeta3vb/540.jpg)
(https://myalbum.com/photo/UE5iobeWKFa9/540.jpg)
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Carbonda website down?
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Carbonda website down?
Been down for me since last night.
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Carbonda website down?
Oh noooo! They must be bankrupt, with all our deposits evaporated!
Or maybe, just maybe, they are more frame builders than webmasters, and it will take them a couple of days to fix it 8)
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Who are y9u guys emailing at Carbonda? Tried the info@ email and didn't get a reply.
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Who are y9u guys emailing at Carbonda? Tried the info@ email and didn't get a reply.
Ask for Wing at sales1@carbonda.com
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Ask for Wing at sales1@carbonda.com
Thanks
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Ask for Wing at "s a l e s 1 at c a r b o n d a dot c o m"
could you please change your post, so that Wing doesn't get spamed and will overlook our important mails.
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could you please change your post, so that Wing doesn't get spamed and will overlook our important mails.
This is not her private email, the benefits of having an email address on a forum like this outweigh the risks.
She will get some spam sure, but more sales too.
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This is not her private email, the benefits of having an email address on a forum like this outweigh the risks.
She will get some spam sure, but more sales too.
Pretty sure he just meant to change the format of it so it doesn't get picked up by bots scanning forums and subscribed to a million mailing lists.
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Pretty sure he just meant to change the format of it so it doesn't get picked up by bots scanning forums and subscribed to a million mailing lists.
That was what I understood too.
It is less relevant than in the old days.
Look at all the websites that have their info@... emails at the bottom of their pages.
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Thanks
But I want a shock with remote! ;)
I just bought a SIDLuxe RL Solo Air (not debonair) compatible twistlock (remote).
I bought a 165x40mm to be safe (i am 63kg but aggressive riding...).
But 165x42,5mm is available.
https://www.bike24.com/p2397287.html
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???
I'm confused.
Besides the reference to Twistloc and Oneloc, it is described just the same way like the one i bought two weeks ago. Back then, there was the same picture of a standard shock with remote. The ordered trunnion shock came without remote.
Pleasse let me know what you got when the package has arrived.
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Do you mean 1) you received a "remote compatible shock" but without twistloc or 2) you received a "lever lockout shock" ?
I completely forgot your message and placed an order. Somebody on a French forum told me that Bike24 said that this shock was remote compatible.
The order is still processing as there is 6-10 days delay on an item. I sent an email so that they can confirm this information.
The page in English display "twistloc compatible" but in German there is nothing said.
I am afraid you are right.
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I received a shock with standard lockout lever, without remote option. Like this (https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/21/2020/03/RockShox-SID-Luxe-rear-shock2-889c2b6.jpg?quality=90&resize=960%2C640).
We'll see what you get.
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What charing rings are you all using for 12speed? Trying to find a reasonable priced on for Shimano 12speed 104bcd (Dont want to wreck a 40euro chain)
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What charing rings are you all using for 12speed? Trying to find a reasonable priced on for Shimano 12speed 104bcd (Dont want to wreck a 40euro chain)
I'm riding with a $8 Deckas oval ring( they have round too ) from Ali.
Not on my FM936 since I still don't have it ;D
I may try in the end that one, from Ali too:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001080768462.html
(https://i.imgur.com/GZdQxOW.jpg)
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I'm riding with a $8 Deckas oval ring( they have round too ) from Ali.
Not on my FM936 since I still don't have it ;D
I may try in the end that one, from Ali too:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001080768462.html
(https://i.imgur.com/GZdQxOW.jpg)
No way! How many months is that now? :O
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No way! How many months is that now? :O
That's what you get if you want an SL BSA !
My two other friends got theirs last week.
The order was from end of June. But you know... Covid, airlines, ... ??? :D
Here is a not so good picture of the orange one:
(https://i.imgur.com/fpWrHZQ.jpg)
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I ordered a 34T Deckas chainring, too.
Have you been getting updates on your frame? I haven't heard anything since I put in my order two weeks ago. Adam said they had standard weight BSA in stock at the time.
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...Have you been getting updates on your frame? I haven't heard anything since I put in my order two weeks ago. Adam said they had standard weight BSA in stock at the time.
One thing that has been said already many times in this forum.
Ordering direct is not like buying from a shop.
You are your own importer, and many things can happen, so you need some patience.
While waiting ~6 months for this one, I'm about to hit my record, it happens but always ends well, so I'm fine.
In the meantime, I've received a dozen of other frames from them too.
One took only 3 weeks, between ordering, painting and shipping.
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I received a shock with standard lockout lever, without remote option. Like this (https://images.immediate.co.uk/production/volatile/sites/21/2020/03/RockShox-SID-Luxe-rear-shock2-889c2b6.jpg?quality=90&resize=960%2C640).
We'll see what you get.
Here is the answer :
"Bike24 GmbH <info@bike24.net>
Jeu 03/12/2020 13:39
Dear Mr. ******,
Thank you for your e-mail.
The item ROX496013 - RockShox SIDLuxe Ultimate RL Solo Air Rear Shockv Fitting Length x Travel: 165 x 40 mm, is compatible with TwistLoc and OneLoc."
Same link as the 42.5 you bought, I think that you can contact them because they sent the wrong shock.
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Hey folks,
I just received my Carbonda FM936. I ordered an SL (super light) model. How do I know if I received an SL or standard model?
Its size Large and weighs 2116g with the rear axle and the plastic dummy shock. I thought it would be a bit lighter and the standard would be closer to this weight. Do you think I got the correct frame?
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Hey folks,
I just received my Carbonda FM936. I ordered an SL (super light) model. How do I know if I received an SL or standard model?
Its size Large and weighs 2116g with the rear axle and the plastic dummy shock. I thought it would be a bit lighter and the standard would be closer to this weight. Do you think I got the correct frame?
Hi.
My standard frame size L weight 2198grs ... it does not seem that you have the light weight
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I doubt Carbonda includes the rear axle and plastic spacer in the stated frame weight. What does it weigh without those items?
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I doubt Carbonda includes the rear axle and plastic spacer in the stated frame weight. What does it weigh without those items?
yeah i guess thats fair enough. but they cant weigh that much. I cant weight the frame again until monday but id guess the axle and shock dummy might weigh ca 100g together. the rear drop out and cable guides were also on the bike. so i guess that might bring it down to closer to 2kg. I jsut got a little concerned when i saw the model printed inside the head tube and it said FM 936...no mention of SL. But 2kg is right for a size Large in the SL version.
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Hi.
My standard frame size L weight 2198grs ... it does not seem that you have the light weight
2198f with or without the the rear axle, dropout and cable white plastic cable guides inside the frame?
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Hey folks,
I just received my Carbonda FM936. I ordered an SL (super light) model. How do I know if I received an SL or standard model?
Its size Large and weighs 2116g with the rear axle and the plastic dummy shock. I thought it would be a bit lighter and the standard would be closer to this weight. Do you think I got the correct frame?
My medium SL was right around 1860 grams w/o axle, shock dummy & seatpost clamp
The axle & shock dummy are right at 100 grams combined so that brings your large down to 2016 grams (lighter if you left the seatpost clamp on as well) which is probably right in the ballpark for a large SL - seems those have a bit of extra reinforcement on the seatpost / toptube section (and probably other areas as well).
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What are you guys using for cable dampener? Is the bike noisy without anything?
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2198f with or without the the rear axle, dropout and cable white plastic cable guides inside the frame?
With everything
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Here is the answer :
"Bike24 GmbH <info@bike24.net>
Jeu 03/12/2020 13:39
Dear Mr. ******,
Thank you for your e-mail.
The item ROX496013 - RockShox SIDLuxe Ultimate RL Solo Air Rear Shockv Fitting Length x Travel: 165 x 40 mm, is compatible with TwistLoc and OneLoc."
Same link as the 42.5 you bought, I think that you can contact them because they sent the wrong shock.
Hmm, now I’m more confused. I emailed SRAM about the 165x40 remote SIDluxe ultimate shock. This is their reply
DSD Australia (SRAM)
Dec 3, 2020, 22:06 CST
Hi James,
Thanks for reaching out on this one.
The rear shock program is a hard one at the moment, just as there are soo many variations we have most shocks available OEM but not as many AM. We have this shock size available aftermarket as a standard shock though but the remote variant is not available aftermarket.
The part number for the lever adjust is:
AM RS SIDL ULT RL 165X40 SA1 MM 430TS A1 00.4118.305.014
Kind Regards,
SRAM Service Team
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I just asked them to take a picture of the shock they have in stock, arguing that 1 customer received the wrong shock and that Rockshox says there is no aftermarket remote shock. I don't want to pay for a return if they send the wrong shock.
I will let you know.
My order is still blocked for 1 week because 1 product is not in stock, hopefully I will solve it before shipment.
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What are you guys using for cable dampener? Is the bike noisy without anything?
This: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000944551689.html
I bought the 6/10mm one.
But it is quite heavy at 40g/m
I'd love to know if the bike is noisy without foam too !
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This one is at the same price and way lighter : 15g for 10m.
https://r2-bike.com/CAPGO-OL-Noise-Protection-for-Brakehose-Braking-Outer-Shell-10m
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I just asked them to take a picture of the shock they have in stock, arguing that 1 customer received the wrong shock and that Rockshox says there is no aftermarket remote shock. I don't want to pay for a return if they send the wrong shock.
I will let you know.
My order is still blocked for 1 week because 1 product is not in stock, hopefully I will solve it before shipment.
i wonder if a fox shock will work with the twist lock remote. it seems it might but im not sure yet .
https://forums.mtbr.com/shocks-suspension/possible-use-rockshox-twistloc-fox-suspension-1086651.html
The twistlock aparently has a 10mm cable pull. just need to find a suitable fox shock and confirm the cable pull needed it.
Ive also emailed sram again asking if they have any shock in 165x40 with remote thats available after market. Also asked which bikes come with the 165x40 remote shock OEM...maybe could just order a "replacement" shock through a dealer. will post any info i get here
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if you want 165x40 with remote, why not go for DT Swiss
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/suspension/shocks/r-232-one
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/suspension/shocks/r-535-one
they are both available with remote and in 165x40
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if you want 165x40 with remote, why not go for DT Swiss
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/suspension/shocks/r-232-one
https://www.dtswiss.com/en/suspension/shocks/r-535-one
they are both available with remote and in 165x40
Do you know if the Rockshox twist lock remote will work with the DTSwiss shock?
I already have the fork :-\
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This one is at the same price and way lighter : 15g for 10m.
https://r2-bike.com/CAPGO-OL-Noise-Protection-for-Brakehose-Braking-Outer-Shell-10m
Lighter & Cheaper ! ::) :D
https://r2-bike.com/JAGWIRE-Internal-Housing-Dampener-for-Cable-Housing-10-meter
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I got a few bags of each of these for the next time I cable mine: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/lifeline-internal-routing-anti-vibration-foam/rp-prod185571
The 5mm is 6 grams per 400mm and the 6mm is 8 grams per 400mm (on my scale).
For now I just cut some sections from a pool noodle the length of the downtube area and shoved them in under the existing cables. Works really well so far, but still hear the part in the chainstays every once in a while.
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Do you know if the Rockshox twist lock remote will work with the DTSwiss shock?
I already have the fork :-\
That could be difficult, the DTSwiss shocks have a 3 position lockout lever :-\
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What are you guys using for cable dampener? Is the bike noisy without anything?
I did experience quite a bit of rattling with no dampener. Since everything was installed already I decided to try the pool noodle hack. I cut a section that was about 80% of the downtube length and then cut that in to thirds lengthwise for an appropriate thickness. To install I just had to drop the fork and push/bend the foam into the frame. It has worked flawlessly, even added some to my gravel frame as well. I don't have a scale handy but can't imagine the weight was significant, and all for $5 with enough left for at least 4 other bikes.
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That could be difficult, the DTSwiss shocks have a 3 position lockout lever :-\
Was wondering if the twistloc pulled enough cable to move the shock all the way from open<->closed without stopping on the middle setting. After fork only has open and closed.
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Lighter & Cheaper ! ::) :D
https://r2-bike.com/JAGWIRE-Internal-Housing-Dampener-for-Cable-Housing-10-meter
No it's almost 10 times heavier! It's 15g for 10m, not 150g ;)
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I did experience quite a bit of rattling with no dampener. Since everything was installed already I decided to try the pool noodle hack. I cut a section that was about 80% of the downtube length and then cut that in to thirds lengthwise for an appropriate thickness. To install I just had to drop the fork and push/bend the foam into the frame. It has worked flawlessly, even added some to my gravel frame as well. I don't have a scale handy but can't imagine the weight was significant, and all for $5 with enough left for at least 4 other bikes.
Thanks. I'll try the pool noodle hack.
Shipping to the US was over $40 for the options posted. Ali option was cheap but heavier.
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No it's almost 10 times heavier! It's 15g for 10m, not 150g ;)
Ouch :o Thanks for the correction!
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Do you know if the Rockshox twist lock remote will work with the DTSwiss shock?
I already have the fork :-\
I can't tell anymore where i read about it, but i think the DT Swiss dual position system works with 5.5 mm cable pull for each step, so 10 mm cable pull from RS twistloc might not give a full lockout, but close to. I think i'll try that out when the frame has arrived (it's getting painted at the moment).
Meanwhile, I'm not too sure where the remote lockout cable is routed out of the frame, as with the DT Swiss shock the cable stopper would be oriented right down in the direction of the BB. Could get "interesting" to connect the cable when it is routed from below the bottle holder screws... Or am i just thinking the wrong way? ???
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340 miles so far. Still works.
My intuition tells me the lockout for the SidLuxe will be available AFTER most of the 2021 complete bikes are sold (that are stocked with the SidLuxe). The service instructions include swapping the lockout and they did this to share with shops and hopefully us. My advice would be to talk with your Sram dealer in person and get one ‘ordered’.
The matte finish on the bare frame is not as durable as the 3k weave of my Flyxii.
Hi!
What have you put in order to carry two bottles?
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Hi!
What have you put in order to carry two bottles?
Wolftooth BRAD system.
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Almost finished.
Is there any option to put a 150mm dropper? I wanted to buy OneUp, but it's out of stock and won't be on sale soon. Has anyone tried the new Fox Transfer 2021?
Or should I just buy 125mm?
(https://i.postimg.cc/59smLJsJ/IMG-20201204-143935.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCJNYpV3)
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I wanted to buy OneUp, but it's out of stock and won't be on sale soon.
You can add a mail alert on their website. 1 week ago I had an alert 31.6 / 150mm was back in stock.
Just need to wait.
I am 83cm leg length, according to my calculation 150mm OneUp v2 was the only 150mm dropper that I can use.
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Is there any option to put a 150mm dropper?
It depends on your legs length and the brand you buy.
For instance here is a dimension guide for a Reverb C1: https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/frame-fit-specifications/rockshox/gen0000000006075-rev-a-reverb-stealth-c1-seatpost-specifications.pdf
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Oneup 150-31.6 total length is 420mm (including actuator). According to my measurements it fits, but will only be on sale at the end of January.
Fox transfer got shorter this year. But it looks like it's too long anyway(
I need to measure everything again and look at the Fox instructions.
It's a pity that I can't buy OneUp now, a week ago I saw it on sale on US website, paid for it, but 150mm immediately ran out of stock and they made me a refund :(
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I have a 150mm Crank Brothers Highline on my medium frame.
Almost finished.
Is there any option to put a 150mm dropper? I wanted to buy OneUp, but it's out of stock and won't be on sale soon. Has anyone tried the new Fox Transfer 2021?
Or should I just buy 125mm?
(https://i.postimg.cc/59smLJsJ/IMG-20201204-143935.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCJNYpV3)
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Almost finished.
Is there any option to put a 150mm dropper? I wanted to buy OneUp, but it's out of stock and won't be on sale soon. Has anyone tried the new Fox Transfer 2021?
Or should I just buy 125mm?
(https://i.postimg.cc/59smLJsJ/IMG-20201204-143935.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCJNYpV3)
These look good and have a price, I think they would be good for you because of the measures it has.
https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collections/all/products/loam-dropper-post?variant=33174437855309
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These look good and have a price, I think they would be good for you because of the measures it has.
https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collections/all/products/loam-dropper-post?variant=33174437855309
Tnx, it seems this is also a good option.
I have 240mm between clamp and saddle frame now, carbondа says the maximum insert length is 180mm but according to my measurements it looks more like 205mm.
According to the Fox manual new 150mm transfer will fit. But very tight, 2mm difference.
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I can't tell anymore where i read about it, but i think the DT Swiss dual position system works with 5.5 mm cable pull for each step, so 10 mm cable pull from RS twistloc might not give a full lockout, but close to. I think i'll try that out when the frame has arrived (it's getting painted at the moment).
Meanwhile, I'm not too sure where the remote lockout cable is routed out of the frame, as with the DT Swiss shock the cable stopper would be oriented right down in the direction of the BB. Could get "interesting" to connect the cable when it is routed from below the bottle holder screws... Or am i just thinking the wrong way? ???
youre right about the DTswiss cable pull. i got a reply from a norwegian importer today. he said 11.5mm from open to lock, 5.7mm form open to drive. im still trying to find out what cable pull Fox uses. but ive seen that on the YT industires Izzo trail bike they use Fox fork and shock but a Rockshox twistlock remote. so wondering if a rockshox fork and Fox shock might play better together...seems impossible to find this stuff out though.
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Can the FM936 use a 165x45 shock?
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Can the FM936 use a 165x45 shock?
No. Maximum is 165x42.5mm. Official maximum (according to Carbonda) is 40mm stroke. Read the earlier post in the thread. This topic has been discussed extensively.
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Balls,
Seems neither fox or rockshox make a remote operated shock available after market in a 165x40 ( that i can find for sale).
Would love to know what remote operated shocks others here are using!
I can find a fox DPS in 165x38 or 165x45. Rockshox are being twatts and only provinding their remote operated 165x40 shocks to bike manufacturers as OEM and cant even tell me which brands use that size shock so i cant even order a "replacement" though one of them.
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Balls,
Seems neither fox or rockshox make a remote operated shock available after market in a 165x40 ( that i can find for sale).
Would love to know what remote operated shocks others here are using!
I can find a fox DPS in 165x38 or 165x45. Rockshox are being twatts and only provinding their remote operated 165x40 shocks to bike manufacturers as OEM and cant even tell me which brands use that size shock so i cant even order a "replacement" though one of them.
I am using two shocks with this frame: 165x42.5mm Fox DPS Performance (non-remote) and a RockShox Deluxe RLR 165x37.5mm (remote, just waiting on my SID Ultimate TwistLoc). I shared my thoughts on these shocks and how they pair with the frame earlier in this thread. The Deluxe RLR is the one I'll probably leave on the frame long-term.
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Almost finished.
Is there any option to put a 150mm dropper? I wanted to buy OneUp, but it's out of stock and won't be on sale soon. Has anyone tried the new Fox Transfer 2021?
Or should I just buy 125mm?
(https://i.postimg.cc/59smLJsJ/IMG-20201204-143935.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jCJNYpV3)
I'm using the 150mm OneUp dropper in a size large frame with no issues.
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I'm using the 150mm OneUp dropper in a size large frame with no issues.
Every dropper can be used with no issues, even a 210mm dropper. It depends on you legs length...
His question is "what other dropper has a short stack height and short overall length".
The v2 used to be the shortest stack (40mm) and length. New fox transfer is 38mm.
Competitors are mainly 50mm stack height.
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Balls,
Seems neither fox or rockshox make a remote operated shock available after market in a 165x40 ( that i can find for sale).
Would love to know what remote operated shocks others here are using!
I can find a fox DPS in 165x38 or 165x45. Rockshox are being twatts and only provinding their remote operated 165x40 shocks to bike manufacturers as OEM and cant even tell me which brands use that size shock so i cant even order a "replacement" though one of them.
A fox DPS shock has the same length shaft for 165x40, 42.5, and 45. Just need to add travel limiting spacer when doing a rebuild. As long as it's just the seals that are bad you could buy a blown shock and have it shortened when they rebuild it. Might be able to get it tuned different and/or get it switched from lever to remote actuated too.
Manitou Mara is very similar to the Manitou McCleod so I think I read you could switch it to remote using McCleod parts. I think it's 22mm cable pull from open to close. I think it's pull to lock. Just make sure if you're loving your fork it works the same way
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Hmm, now I’m more confused. I emailed SRAM about the 165x40 remote SIDluxe ultimate shock. This is their reply
DSD Australia (SRAM)
Dec 3, 2020, 22:06 CST
Hi James,
Thanks for reaching out on this one.
The rear shock program is a hard one at the moment, just as there are soo many variations we have most shocks available OEM but not as many AM. We have this shock size available aftermarket as a standard shock though but the remote variant is not available aftermarket.
The part number for the lever adjust is:
AM RS SIDL ULT RL 165X40 SA1 MM 430TS A1 00.4118.305.014
Kind Regards,
SRAM Service Team
I received the bike24 shock today... it is a lever shock, not a remote.
What they told me by email was wrong.
I think I am going to order a DT Swiss shock...
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my thoughts, overpriced chiner carbon, not going to happen. Pricing is to USA zip code 48095. The frame, paint, and shipping is all higher than my other builds.
820USD for super light version frame
135USD for custom paint
2x5USD for spare rear hangers
230USD for shipping cost
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I received the bike24 shock today... it is a lever shock, not a remote.
What they told me by email was wrong.
I think I am going to order a DT Swiss shock...
That's a pity, altough not unexpected. :-X
I'd highly appreciate reading some experience about the DT Swiss. Preferably with a picture ;)
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my thoughts, overpriced chiner carbon, not going to happen. Pricing is to USA zip code 48095. The frame, paint, and shipping is all higher than my other builds.
820USD for super light version frame
135USD for custom paint
2x5USD for spare rear hangers
230USD for shipping cost
Why is it overpriced? Go buy a stevens or the NS and pay more then! Pretty much most people here would disagree with you. The Normal version is better value - plus you can paint it yourself if you want to with spray.bike or similar. Shipping cost is hardy their fault either. That my opinion at least :)
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I'd highly appreciate reading some experience about the DT Swiss. Preferably with a picture ;)
I can't talk about the R232 or the R535 and also not how they work out on the FM936 but I was using a X313 remote on my old IP-036 and I only have good things to say about it. In the OPEN mode, it was plush and active. In the DRIVE mode, it was giving great support while staying enough active to smooth out the trail. In LOCK mode, it was totally locked out. So I was using the DRIVE mode on flats and uphill and switching to OPEN mode when going down or on really rough trails. The DT remote was great, I got used to it fast and sometimes I wish it was possible to use it on my new bike. The X313 remote didn't seem to like to be in between modes and I had to make sure the cable was properly setup. When in between, even by not that much, it was making a whistling sound. I guess the 232 and 535 must act the same way and I would make sure the cable pull is right for the shock if you're planning to use another remote than the DT one.
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Interesting, didnt think about that possibility. I dont know too much about the function of a shock, but i can imagine 3 different shims that you engage with the 3 modes. Doesnt mean a 232 must work the same way, but it would likely be. One more thing to figure out...
Actually i'd like to stick with twistloc, as it can lock both front and rear in one movement, without adding a clamp to the handlebar.
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Another option would be the rockshox Nude 165x40mm : https://www.starbike.com/fr/rockshox-deluxe-nude-rlc3-rear-shock-mreb-mcomp-430lb-lockout-trunnion-standard/ (https://www.starbike.com/fr/rockshox-deluxe-nude-rlc3-rear-shock-mreb-mcomp-430lb-lockout-trunnion-standard/)
3 pos, it should work as a 2 pos if the total cable pull is around 10mm. But I can't find the information.
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Anyone tried already to remove the bushing of a SidLuxe to put a bearing instead ?
It looks to be very hard to get out. More force ?
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Anyone tried already to remove the bushing of a SidLuxe to put a bearing instead ?
It looks to be very hard to get out. More force ?
Not a SidLuxe, but the Deluxe RLR I bought had an incredibly tight bushing, which I removed to fit a RWC needle bearing kit.
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Anyone tried already to remove the bushing of a SidLuxe to put a bearing instead ?
It looks to be very hard to get out. More force ?
https://www.bike-components.de/de/RockShox/Rear-Shock-Bushing-Tool-Montagewerkzeug-fuer-Gleitbuchsen-p30649/
Nice tool for this work.
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https://www.bike-components.de/de/RockShox/Rear-Shock-Bushing-Tool-Montagewerkzeug-fuer-Gleitbuchsen-p30649/
Nice tool for this work.
Thanks Pharaollie & Denis, yes I saw the tool.
As well as a guy who shows on YouTube how to get it it out with a vice, and a 10mm socket and a bigger one.
Or with the same sockets and a bearing press.
So I guess, yes more force is needed.
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Thanks Pharaollie & Denis, yes I saw the tool.
As well as a guy who shows on YouTube how to get it it out with a vice, and a 10mm socket and a bigger one.
Or with the same sockets and a bearing press.
So I guess, yes more force is needed.
I tried the vice and ended up ordering the tool. To get the RWC bearing installed I used the vice method.
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I would also be interested in this frame, do you have a photo where the shock is to see how you have arranged the remote cable? Thanks
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Is the Shock hardware needed 22.2x8mm of 22.2x6mm? have tried searching this thread but didnt see it.
Cheers guys
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Is the Shock hardware needed 22.2x8mm of 22.2x6mm? have tried searching this thread but didnt see it.
Cheers guys
Search for "22.2" and you'll find it. Post #956 ===> 22.2x8.
For FOX : https://www.bike-components.de/de/Fox-Racing-Shox/Aluminium-Einbaubuchsenset-8-mm-5-teilig-p32318/
For RS: https://www.bike-components.de/de/RockShox/Einbaubuchsen-fuer-Federbeine-8-mm-fuer-Monarch-Kage-Vivid-Ario-ab-2010-p24675/
You need 22.2 mm width. Also you can use fox bushing in rockshox, just need to remove standart DU bushing in eyelet, in my opininon fox bushing works better with this style suspension.
Also there is enduro needle bearings, fits all shocks. https://www.bike24.com/p2223514.html?q=enduro%20needle
I've bought it as a spare bushing for fox, but ride all season with standart fox, works great.
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Is the Shock hardware needed 22.2x8mm of 22.2x6mm? have tried searching this thread but didnt see it.
Cheers guys
22.2x8mm
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22.2x8mm
Thank you sir!
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I’ve found a remote shock solution if any one is interested. It might be too expensive for some people but it’s an option non the less and it took a lot of searching to find it so thought I’d share it here.
I’ve just ordered a modified Fox Factory Float DPS 165x40 Trunnion mount shock from Aiden at https://cyclinic.com.au/ in Australia. He will mod a non remote 165x40 shock to have a remote that works in unison with a Sid ultimate shock (normally the fox shock would open/lock with opposite remote lever movements). So this will let me operate front and rear with the Rockshox Twostloc remote.
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sorry but i'm a bit ignorant about this frame. Is it not possible to mount a normal 2-position remote control shock absorber on the handlebar? Thanks
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sorry but i'm a bit ignorant about this frame. Is it not possible to mount a normal 2-position remote control shock absorber on the handlebar? Thanks
Yes, this is not the problem. The problem is finding a remote shock in the correct size. Rockshox only offers the right size to OEMs and the Fox shocks normally operate opposite of the way RS shocks twist so you couldn't use the same controller for both front and rear shocks if you have a Sid and a Fox. JimmyD's solution allows you mix the Sid and Fox with a single remote.
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I think the easiest way is to make an axle for a standard shock 165x38 shock to pair it with Fox fork. For an experienced turner, this is a task of a few minutes. In any case, I will make such an axle when my frame arrives. I'll write about the results.
By the way. I replaced stock Fox remote with DT Swiss. It is a product of the different leve of quality.
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What do you think about using a DT shock with DT remote... and leave the RS fork lockout cable some 1-2 mm of slack?
That shouldn't be enough slack to make the cable housing sliding out of the stoppers...
In a german forum, i read that an intermediate shifting position should not impair a SID RaceDay.
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My friend using RS Sid with DT remote with DT rear shock on his SC Blur. He is happy with it.
I use DT Remote with Fox SC 34 fork. Also there is top cup kit for Fox forks that will convert from Push-to-unlock to traditional Push-to-lock.
https://www.bike24.com/p2279723.html
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My friend using RS Sid with DT remote with DT rear shock on his SC Blur. He is happy with it.
I use DT Remote with Fox SC 34 fork. Also there is top cup kit for Fox forks that will convert from Push-to-unlock to traditional Push-to-lock.
https://www.bike24.com/p2279723.html
And with the remote in the middle position is the Sid unlocked?
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I’ve found a remote shock solution if any one is interested. It might be too expensive for some people but it’s an option non the less and it took a lot of searching to find it so thought I’d share it here.
I’ve just ordered a modified Fox Factory Float DPS 165x40 Trunnion mount shock from Aiden at https://cyclinic.com.au/ in Australia. He will mod a non remote 165x40 shock to have a remote that works in unison with a Sid ultimate shock (normally the fox shock would open/lock with opposite remote lever movements). So this will let me operate front and rear with the Rockshox Twostloc remote.
What is the price for that ?
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And with the remote in the middle position is the Sid unlocked?
It adds a little compression but mostly works like open
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It adds a little compression but mostly works like open
Perfect, thank you!
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Finally reсived my frame today. 1 month since I send payment. It is quite fast before Xmas and New year.
Package was very good. Spent 15 minutes getting frame out of it.
Normal frame size L BSA without hardware is 2040g. I think it is very good for the price.
(http://)
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Great dude! hope you enjoy it! Carbonzza - did you get your BSA yet? - this lad has one!
Never seen one in the wood crate before! did anyone get theirs like this?
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Great dude! hope you enjoy it! Carbonzza - did you get your BSA yet? - this lad has one!
Never seen one in the wood crate before! did anyone get theirs like this?
Be sure that when I get it, I'll let you know ???
The wood crate is a first here!
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I've got an SL large coming. Curious to see how the weight compares to albar's frame.
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Hi Risckys,
Could you post a pic of your bike, please?
Sorry for the delay!
(https://i.postimg.cc/BQ4m85Gt/IMG-20201218-152223.jpg)
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Sorry for the delay!
Good looking bike! Rocker link is carbon or alu?
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Local mechanic made an axle with thread to mount normal 165x38 shock into trunion mount.
I disassembled the frame, put a grease into bearings, locktited all bolts and tightened them with torque wrench by specification. It was no grease in bearings and the bolts were not tightened.
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Now I have a question. A seatpost clamp is not fully fit the frame. Is it ok or I should look for another clamp?
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Now I have a question. A seatpost clamp is not fully fit the frame. Is it ok or I should look for another clamp?
I would start by figuring out why it doesn't go down all the way. Is there paint buildup on the seat tube?
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The clamp on my FM10 is the same. It is seated all of the way down to the collar but clearly the frame is made to accommodate a two bolt or lever clamp. The clamp I have came with the frame from the manufacturer.
I will be using that one.
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Get a clamp that doesn't have the lip on the top edge or just live with it.
I don't use the type with the lip, they are annoying.
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Hey guys,
So anyone who have this frame and posted those bolts with some wear ... Did it get any worse?
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What is the price for that ?
The shock itself with the remote added and modified to work with the Rockshox SUD Ultimate fork and Twistloc remote cost $759AUD/€464//US$568. Which after I pay Norwegian VAT works out close enough to buying comparable shock in Europe. It was sent DHL express and I think it’ll arrive tomorrow (one week shipping total). Aiden at Cyclinic was super helpful via email.
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sorry for my english...
How many you payed for shipping to eruope?
they sad: DHL shipping cost for one set : US$ 230 ( 3-10 days )
thx
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Now I have a question. A seatpost clamp is not fully fit the frame. Is it ok or I should look for another clamp?
I'm sure it will work just fine, but might not be the best look.
Can you tell me the clamp diameter you're using? I've got a frame coming and need to order a clamp.
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sorry for my english...
How many you payed for shipping to eruope?
they sad: DHL shipping cost for one set : US$ 230 ( 3-10 days )
thx
Shipping to the US was a lot cheaper 10 months ago, I assume the same for Europe.
I just got that same shipping quote ($230) for a gravel frame to the US.
I think all int'l shipping is a bit screwed up right now because of this stupid covid crap. Or maybe I'm stupid? Who knows?
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Shipping is upside down right now :-\
Parcels are being returned to the sellers.
There isn't enough flights anymore.
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sorry for my english...
How many you payed for shipping to eruope?
they sad: DHL shipping cost for one set : US$ 230 ( 3-10 days )
thx
At January 2019 EMS shipping to the European Russia cost 80$. :(
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sorry for my english...
How many you payed for shipping to eruope?
they sad: DHL shipping cost for one set : US$ 230 ( 3-10 days )
thx
Moin,
i payed 160 $ for "trax free" shipping to germany, wich means they do something (i don't want to know exactly) so you don't have to pay taxes anymore.
I hope they will get my frame on the way soon. I have a lot of parts piling up here, but last info i got from carbonda (adam) is that they might paint my frame about last week. I know nothing will happen at christmas and new year's eve... its hard to be patient.
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At January 2019 EMS shipping to the European Russia cost 80$. :(
Now it is tax free and $120
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Did a first ride today. McLeod shock works perfect on this frame. Overall very happy with performance of the bike and it’s geometry. It just a totally different in comparison with my old frame.
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Now it is tax free and $120
It was tax free. Carbonda underestimate the cost of goods.
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Did a first ride today. McLeod shock works perfect on this frame. Overall very happy with performance of the bike and it’s geometry. It just a totally different in comparison with my old frame.
Nice bike! What a white powder on the ground ? )
Stem seems a little bit long for L size.
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I'm sure it will work just fine, but might not be the best look.
Can you tell me the clamp diameter you're using? I've got a frame coming and need to order a clamp.
Thanks! It is ok now. Clamp is 34,9 as specified on Carbonda site
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Nice bike! What a white powder on the ground ? )
Stem seems a little bit long for L size.
Thank you! Stem is 70, it feels comfortable now. Maybe will try 60, when white powder will gone:)
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Looking to purchase a FM936 but can't decide on frame size.
I'm 186 cm tall and have an inseam of 88cm without shoes.
Would you recommend Large or X-Large?
Would greatly appreciate if you can motivate, maybe I'll learn something :)
Thank you!
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Looking to purchase a FM936 but can't decide on frame size.
I'm 186 cm tall and have an inseam of 88cm without shoes.
Would you recommend Large or X-Large?
Would greatly appreciate if you can motivate, maybe I'll learn something :)
Thank you!
I'm 185cm with a similar arm span and long legs. I need to measure the inseam to tell you. I ride the Large (L) with a 60mm stem and sweep back flat bars, 44mm offset fork and find it's more than big enough. If I used 0deg backsweep and 70mm it would be fine if I was 190cm I think.
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Looking to purchase a FM936 but can't decide on frame size.
I'm 186 cm tall and have an inseam of 88cm without shoes.
Would you recommend Large or X-Large?
Would greatly appreciate if you can motivate, maybe I'll learn something :)
Thank you!
I'm 188cm on a size large, but questioning if I should have gone with a medium. Compare the frame geometry to other bikes on the market and what you're used to, its almost as if the Carbonda chart is off by a size even when comparing to other modern downcountry frames. I'm running a 60mm stem with 44mm offset 120mm fork and feel the the front end gets away from me on step drops and the bike is difficult to maneuver around switchbacks. But I'm also coming from road and used to a smaller frame under me/being over the front of the bike a bit more.
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has anyone seen any damper for this frame with remote lockout?
165x37,/38/40/42,5?
X-fusion O2 PRO RLR 165x40mm, Trunnion.
The RLR modell is with remote. RL is without remote.
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has anyone seen any damper for this frame with remote lockout?
165x37,/38/40/42,5?
DT 535 or Fox DPS + buy remote kit conversion.
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has anyone seen any damper for this frame with remote lockout?
165x37,/38/40/42,5?
Fox, DT 535 and X-Fusion are already mentioned
+ DT 232 One, but i'm not sure if you can route the cable in an appropriate way
+ SR Suntour Edge RLR (was not able to get one, might be OEM)
+ RockShox has 165 trunnion shocks (Sidluxe & Monarch) for remote lockout as OEM, so in future there should be used ones for sale occasionally.
+ standard 165 shocks with a trunnion adapter kit
Looking to purchase a FM936 but can't decide on frame size.
I'm 186 cm tall and have an inseam of 88cm without shoes.
Would you recommend Large or X-Large?
Would greatly appreciate if you can motivate, maybe I'll learn something :)
Thank you!
What are top tube lenght and reach of your current bike(s) in comparison?
For example, my current bike has a 640 mm TT and i use a 90 mm stem. So a FM936 in L would give me the same length and a XL is either same length with shorter stem or offers a more stretched position.
As i dont feel stretched on my current bike at all and i want a shorter stem, i ordered XL.
Your numbers, current feeling and conclusion will differ, but that's the way i made my decision.
Edit: with 88 cm inseam at 186 cm overall, you have a way shorter torso than i have (short 78 inseam at 188 overall). So i guess L might be the better option for you, especially if you merely look for a trail bike than a stretched marathon racer.
By the way, does anybody know how carbonda takes christmas and new year? Do they shut the doors as european companies would do? I dont want to message them "whats the status?" annoyingly after they spent ten nice days with their families. But I'm the most impatient man on earth and china doesnt care that much about christian holidays...
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Fox, DT 535 and X-Fusion are already mentioned
+ DT 232 One, but i'm not sure if you can route the cable in an appropriate way
+ SR Suntour Edge RLR (was not able to get one, might be OEM)
+ RockShox has 165 trunnion shocks (Sidluxe & Monarch) for remote lockout as OEM, so in future there should be used ones for sale occasionally.
+ standard 165 shocks with a trunnion adapter kit
What are top tube lenght and reach of your current bike(s) in comparison?
For example, my current bike has a 640 mm TT and i use a 90 mm stem. So a FM936 in L would give me the same length and a XL is either same length with shorter stem or offers a more stretched position.
As i dont feel stretched on my current bike at all and i want a shorter stem, i ordered XL.
Your numbers, current feeling and conclusion will differ, but that's the way i made my decision.
Edit: with 88 cm inseam at 186 cm overall, you have a way shorter torso than i have (short 78 inseam at 188 overall). So i guess L might be the better option for you, especially if you merely look for a trail bike than a stretched marathon racer.
By the way, does anybody know how carbonda takes christmas and new year? Do they shut the doors as european companies would do? I dont want to message them "whats the status?" annoyingly after they spent ten nice days with their families. But I'm the most impatient man on earth and china doesnt care that much about christian holidays...
Current bike has 656mm toptube with 35mm stem and reach is 460mm.
Sometimes the current bike feels small and like I'm "on top of the bike" and not "in the bike and one with the bike". I am between size recommendations on my current bike having a Large while a X-large would also be okay according to manufacturer. I don't feel stretched out on current bike.
Currently only riding trails leisurly as the bike is a long travel enduro model. In the future with a FM936 i mighty try my luck with xc marathon style riding/racing.
I'm leaning towards choosing a size Large FM936, mostly due to i'm afraid the minimum saddle height might be to high on an XL and being in the way for the descents.
Edit: Added geo-comparison attachment.
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I did one ride for 40 km on size large with 70 mm stem and it feels perfect. I’am 185 cm. Maybe later will try 60 or 50 mm stem. Now it is too much snow to ride XC-bike)
The question about shocks is do we need lockout. As I told I did only one ride and can’t decide now.
I’m afraid that open mode will be too soft to ride fast pedaling trails and locked will be too firm and will not be enough traction.
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I'm 188cm on a size large, but questioning if I should have gone with a medium. Compare the frame geometry to other bikes on the market and what you're used to, its almost as if the Carbonda chart is off by a size even when comparing to other modern downcountry frames. I'm running a 60mm stem with 44mm offset 120mm fork and feel the the front end gets away from me on step drops and the bike is difficult to maneuver around switchbacks. But I'm also coming from road and used to a smaller frame under me/being over the front of the bike a bit more.
It's for sure long. Its hard to say if its too long though. I guess an enduro bike, correctly sized for 185-190cm would be a similar length? - maybe he can check the NS Synonym sizing chart.
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Current bike has 656mm toptube with 35mm stem and reach is 460mm.
Sometimes the current bike feels small and like I'm "on top of the bike" and not "in the bike and one with the bike". I am between size recommendations on my current bike having a Large while a X-large would also be okay according to manufacturer. I don't feel stretched out on current bike.
Currently only riding trails leisurly as the bike is a long travel enduro model. In the future with a FM936 i mighty try my luck with xc marathon style riding/racing.
I'm leaning towards choosing a size Large FM936, mostly due to i'm afraid the minimum saddle height might be to high on an XL and being in the way for the descents.
Edit: Added geo-comparison attachment.
Okay, that's really difficult. With XL, you don't have the option to have the same seating position as you have now. Without regarding the steeper seat tube angle, your position will be stretched by at least 8 mm. You could try that out with a 45 mm stem at your current bike. Might be good if you feel a bit cramped now.
On the other hand, one tends to use a longer stem at bikes with less travel. So chosing L and a >50 mm stem would give you the same position as you have now... bad thing is, it could feel wrong using a longer stem on this bike, when taking into account that you might like switching to a more stretched position.
With 88 cm inseam i highly doubt you get a problem with the seat tube. Even i with my short legs get a 150 mm dropper fit in a XL frame. Just measure your current distance from BB zu seat rails and do some easy calculation.
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Okay, that's really difficult. With XL, you don't have the option to have the same seating position as you have now. Without regarding the steeper seat tube angle, your position will be stretched by at least 8 mm. You could try that out with a 45 mm stem at your current bike. Might be good if you feel a bit cramped now.
On the other hand, one tends to use a longer stem at bikes with less travel. So chosing L and a >50 mm stem would give you the same position as you have now... bad thing is, it could feel wrong using a longer stem on this bike, when taking into account that you might like switching to a more stretched position.
With 88 cm inseam i highly doubt you get a problem with the seat tube. Even i with my short legs get a 150 mm dropper fit in a XL frame. Just measure your current distance from BB zu seat rails and do some easy calculation.
I've ridden my current bike with a 50 or 55mm stem and liked it alot.
Leaning towards a Large FM936. I think it will be long enough and also due to the shorter wheelbase for better/easier control on technical climbs.
Really afraid the XL will feel too long regarding reach and wheelbase.
Will do some calculations as you suggest.
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I've ridden my current bike with a 50 or 55mm stem and liked it alot.
Leaning towards a Large FM936. I think it will be long enough and also due to the shorter wheelbase for better/easier control on technical climbs.
Really afraid the XL will feel too long regarding reach and wheelbase.
Will do some calculations as you suggest.
You're 1cm taller than me, I really cannot see how an XL will be better than L. The L really long and you get 0 benefits from even longer wheelbase with the XL, only negatives since i think the fit will be better on L. You are not sacrificing comfort, you are sacrificing performance. If you were 195-200, L would be sacrificing comfort for performance. That's my thoughts. :) So i measure my inseam it's 86cm at 185cm and I love the Large, feels like a perfect size.
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I'm 188cm on a size large, but questioning if I should have gone with a medium. Compare the frame geometry to other bikes on the market and what you're used to, its almost as if the Carbonda chart is off by a size even when comparing to other modern downcountry frames. I'm running a 60mm stem with 44mm offset 120mm fork and feel the the front end gets away from me on step drops and the bike is difficult to maneuver around switchbacks. But I'm also coming from road and used to a smaller frame under me/being over the front of the bike a bit more.
Just to show how subjective this all is, I'm 177cm on a medium and kinda thinking the length of a large would have been better. If the seat tube would have been a bit shorter I probably would have gone that way.
I'm on a medium with a 70mm stem, running a 120mm fork as well. This bike does have a long wheelbase and requires more lean in tighter turns, but can get through them really fast if you commit. ;-)
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You're 1cm taller than me, I really cannot see how an XL will be better than L. The L really long and you get 0 benefits from even longer wheelbase with the XL, only negatives since i think the fit will be better on L. You are not sacrificing comfort, you are sacrificing performance. If you were 195-200, L would be sacrificing comfort for performance. That's my thoughts. :) So i measure my inseam it's 86cm at 185cm and I love the Large, feels like a perfect size.
I think size L will suit you, I measure 181 cm high and 88.5 cm inseam,my frame size L and stem of 40mm.
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Carbonda introduced new model FM 909 on their website. Lighter frame, comparable geometry and different shock mount.
Received following reply:
Thanks for your inquiry.
This is the new model for 2021 year.
United price 950USD/pcs
And 1st batch should be done on May or June.
The best regards!
Adam
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Carbonda introduced new model FM 909 on their website. Lighter frame, comparable geometry and different shock mount.
Received following reply:
Thanks for your inquiry.
This is the new model for 2021 year.
United price 950USD/pcs
And 1st batch should be done on May or June.
The best regards!
Adam
Is that for the SL version? I'm assuming it includes the integrated handlebar based on the pictures. That still seems like a price increase vs 936 though.
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Is that for the SL version? I'm assuming it includes the integrated handlebar based on the pictures. That still seems like a price increase vs 936 though.
It is excluding the handlebar for sure, Adam let me know that they were still testing the handlebar, and at a later moment he could share more details.
Based on his response it looks like this is the price for the normal version, and the super light will come at a premium, but that I still need to verify.
So it indeed seems a bit of price increase compared to the FM936.
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Only asked if IT was new model and about price. Obviously I have many more questions about new model but that Will come later. According website only S-super light version available. Size M claimed weight 1750 Gr.
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Hi all,
Has anyone noticed their chainstay pivot bolt (male side) coming loose? I've tried to use red low strength loctite on the thread but it still loosens. Will move to blue high/medium strength loctite but was wondering if anyone had better suggestions. The bolts are Alu so doesn't quite bite like steel. If it keeps happening with the blue I'll have to get some stainless bolts or find a better solution to it coming loose. Because it would ruin the frame if it bolt came fully loose.
Thanks! :)
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I said id post a pic of me on the bike for sizing advice. L frame 185cm 70kg :)
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Hi all,
Has anyone noticed their chainstay pivot bolt (male side) coming loose? I've tried to use red low strength loctite on the thread but it still loosens. Will move to blue high/medium strength loctite but was wondering if anyone had better suggestions. The bolts are Alu so doesn't quite bite like steel. If it keeps happening with the blue I'll have to get some stainless bolts or find a better solution to it coming loose. Because it would ruin the frame if it bolt came fully loose.
Thanks! :)
It was loose on new frame, then fully rebuild all suspension with grease and blue locktite. Whole year everyting is ok. Check bearings first.
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Those pants look fast bud!
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Started a new thread for the FM909.
Wing says it's going to be available from June the earliest. Prices are way higher than 936. SL version is going to be available 1750g in M
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maybe this question has already been asked here, but still. What is the pressure in your shock absorbers? I have a weight of 80kg and I need to pump 280psi to sag 20%
shock fox dps from ebay
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I
maybe this question has already been asked here, but still. What is the pressure in your shock absorbers? I have a weight of 80kg and I need to pump 280psi to sag 20%
shock fox dps from ebay
Yeah... this is personally one design fault with the FM936, I think the BB drop is 5 mm too much. I'm 75kg an I have to run the shock at 250psi ish too for 10% sag and to avoid too much pedal strike with 170mm cranks. The benefit is that the downhills feel amazing. It could also be the FOX DPS shock isn't designed for this bike and it needs to be stiffer at the top of the stroke..
I wonder how easy it would be to machine a new rocker link that would raise the bb.
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What about running a 130 or 140 mm fork? Anyone tried that? That would raise the BB. It would also mean slacker angles.
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What about running a 130 or 140 mm fork? Anyone tried that? That would raise the BB. It would also mean slacker angles.
I think someone had a lowered Xfusion, maybe you can ask them if they tried it un lowered first. Shame it's not possible to get 167-170mm shocks to really tune it. I imagine the pro's have shocks specifically to make the BB height exactly what they want.
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I
Yeah... this is personally one design fault with the FM936, I think the BB drop is 5 mm too much. I'm 75kg an I have to run the shock at 250psi ish too for 10% sag and to avoid too much pedal strike with 170mm cranks. The benefit is that the downhills feel amazing. It could also be the FOX DPS shock isn't designed for this bike and it needs to be stiffer at the top of the stroke..
I wonder how easy it would be to machine a new rocker link that would raise the bb.
Maybe you need some volume spacers, increasing the progressivity a bit should get better support at top stroke.
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What about running a 130 or 140 mm fork? Anyone tried that? That would raise the BB. It would also mean slacker angles.
I simulated 140mm fork (with 51 mm offset because this is the fork I have and it would be more playful to ride).
The BB is 5mm higher and the geo is very close to the Norco Optic (that is a the perfect all mountain bike IMHO).
When I receive my bike, I will try
- 120mm fork + 29x2.35 tyres
- 140mm fork + 29x2.35 tyres
- 140mm fork + 29x2.35 front / 27.5x2.8 rear :o
(https://i.ibb.co/ckft9fH/Sans-titre.png)
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I think someone had a lowered Xfusion, maybe you can ask them if they tried it un lowered first. Shame it's not possible to get 167-170mm shocks to really tune it. I imagine the pro's have shocks specifically to make the BB height exactly what they want.
Could it be possible to make some offset bushings for the lower shock mount that made it possible to run a 165x45 shock? That would raise the shock some mm? You would get more travel and higher bb height. Some modification of the frame would be necessary.
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Could it be possible to make some offset bushings for the lower shock mount that made it possible to run a 165x45 shock? That would raise the shock some mm? You would get more travel and higher bb height. Some modification of the frame would be necessary.
possible maybe with smaller diameter bearings in an offset shell. I think it would be inclined to rotate the eccentric offset though.
I believe the only thing would be to increase the eye to eye, the travel (40vs 42.5 vs 45mm) only refers to how far the shock compress, not the overall length. :)
On a side note my lower rear triangle bolt is still coming loose even with Blue Loctite. I'm thinking I'll have to replace it - maybe I can make a stainless one :/ Such a pain.
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On a side note my lower rear triangle bolt is still coming loose even with Blue Loctite. I'm thinking I'll have to replace it - maybe I can make a stainless one :/ Such a pain.
I'm also having issues with this bolt. It's a source a squeaking and drives me crazy and I've managed to strip the non drive-side trying to torque to spec. Any ideas on specs to replace it? I had the rear linkage fully torn down a month ago to grease everything but was not able to fully remove the inner tube portion, just the bolt heads on each side.
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another question. Does anyone know what the torsional rigidity of the frame is in N / m? wondered how much harder or softer it is than a spark
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Another brand selling Carbonda fm936 with their name.
https://www.bicismendiz.com/bicicletas/mtb/mendiz-x40xc-configurador#
Sizes are interesting. L from Carbonda is XL from Mendiz
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What about running a 130 or 140 mm fork? Anyone tried that? That would raise the BB. It would also mean slacker angles.
Interested in this as well. Considering a 130mm pike for my build.
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another question. Does anyone know what the torsional rigidity of the frame is in N / m? wondered how much harder or softer it is than a spark
I will answer myself)
Adam sent me a bench test report of the frame and if I understand everything correctly, it is stronger than a spark frame
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possible maybe with smaller diameter bearings in an offset shell. I think it would be inclined to rotate the eccentric offset though.
I believe the only thing would be to increase the eye to eye, the travel (40vs 42.5 vs 45mm) only refers to how far the shock compress, not the overall length. :)
On a side note my lower rear triangle bolt is still coming loose even with Blue Loctite. I'm thinking I'll have to replace it - maybe I can make a stainless one :/ Such a pain.
You can try using green loctite, I had to do that on a Turner I own that has IGUS plain bearings instead of ball bearings.
I guess offset bushings only work if you want to shorten the shock length. I was thinking more of something like a flip chip similar to the scott on the attached picture. You would have to modify (mill/dremel) the upper linkage (warranty void, and the part could crack). The flip chips are small and simple to design and would not be that expensive to order from some (online) machine shop. This could work, and possibly not. I guess you only need to move the holes a few mm downwards. To mill a new linkage part in aluminium would be interesting, but could get quit expensive, depending on where its being made..
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maybe this question has already been asked here, but still. What is the pressure in your shock absorbers? I have a weight of 80kg and I need to pump 280psi to sag 20%
shock fox dps from ebay
I have the SidLuxe and tried to set it up with 10% sag and it was too firm. I went with 25% sag and the bike rides faster. I think the old days of less sag for a race bike have been engineered out by the single air XC shock design.
One of my other bikes has Manitou Swinger 3-Way and it can be tuned so many different ways...
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...I simulated 140mm fork...
What are you using to display the geometry ? Excel ?
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I guess offset bushings only work if you want to shorten the shock length.
Typically they're either used to modify geometry (slacken stuff) or to accommodate a longer eye to eye shock. Putting a short shock and offset bushings is doubling down on the same thing.
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What are you using to display the geometry ? Excel ?
yep, i am in love with Excel ;D
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Hi,
So I didn't order this frame, despite looking at them back in July, but now I'm ready to order I can't get a response from Carbonda. I've emailed Adam and sales1 email addresses, and sent a message on Skype and through the website. Has any one had any communication with them in the last week?
Also, I was wondering how long delivery has taken for people when the frames have been in stock, and without custom paint?
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They are probably on holidays right now. I didn't get a response either this week.
The minimum wait I got was 3 weeks between order and delivery, usually ~5-6 weeks with paint.
But it can be months, especially now as there aren't many flights.
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Hi,
So I didn't order this frame, despite looking at them back in July, but now I'm ready to order I can't get a response from Carbonda. I've emailed Adam and sales1 email addresses, and sent a message on Skype and through the website. Has any one had any communication with them in the last week?
Also, I was wondering how long delivery has taken for people when the frames have been in stock, and without custom paint?
Ask Wing Lee
https://www.google.es/amp/s/m.spanish.alibaba.com/amp/p-detail/62238559299.html
Check out this product on Alibaba App Carbonda FM936 29er/27,5 DE SUSPENSIÓN COMPLETA Cruz país bicicleta de montaña bicicleta aumentar
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Hi,
So I didn't order this frame, despite looking at them back in July, but now I'm ready to order I can't get a response from Carbonda. I've emailed Adam and sales1 email addresses, and sent a message on Skype and through the website. Has any one had any communication with them in the last week?
Also, I was wondering how long delivery has taken for people when the frames have been in stock, and without custom paint?
Yeah, Emailing with Adam can be quite annoying. To me, his anwering quota is about 50%.
However, he answered me on skype just yesterday (to give me the tracking number).
Maybe you'd better try to contact Wing via Skype.
About delivery times:
I payed my order the 24th of November. Adam told me they had XL/BSA in stock.
According to WXY tracking, they sent the package the 29th of December, making it exactly 5 weeks for painting, but during christmas time...
Since then, there is no new tracking info.
I am waiting for another package from china with a pair of rims, also forwarded by WXY. This one was sent on December 9th and went via Kazakhstan and Russia. I guess it took the trans-eurasia railway, no airplane. Today (after 1 month) it arrived in Berlin, so i expect it to arrive at my home within a week.
So if the package from carbonda takes the same route with the same speed, it will add up to 10 weeks from placing order to receiving it in Germany... and i'll have to wait another month :'(
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According to WXY tracking, they sent the package the 29th of December, making it exactly 5 weeks for painting, but during christmas time...
Just as an FYI to yourself and others in this thread, they don't really do the whole Christmas thing over there- so there's no delay caused by it. The big thing for them is new years (their version of it) which often closes factories for like 9 days. That's upcoming and in the past what has caused delays for us.
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Thsnks it looks like it's the Chinese New year now, so I'll try again in a a week. I really want this frame now, and am feeling very impatient
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I'm pretty sure Chinese New Year is February 12 this year (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_New_Year#Public_holiday (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_New_Year#Public_holiday)). I just looked it up and the corresponding public holiday is Feb 11-17 (people often take an additional week of vacation after).
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I’m also waiting for confirmation from Adam on a frame order.
Edit: I've chosen to order the frame without paint but the factory still needs one week before shipping for paintwork. Does anybody know what paintwork they're doing if ordered without paint?
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They apply a clear coat on carbon, matte or gloss, to protect the epoxy.
From what I understood they get batches monthly, if in stock fine, if not, some wait is expected.
Sure the national Holidays are in February.
If neither Adam nor Wing answer as fast as usual, they must be doing or having something.
But I wouldn't call it directly the end of Carbonda ;)
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Can I use 165x38mm on the back with 100mm front?
Will I see any difference when using 38 between 40mm?
Your travel will be shorter at the back but your bb height won't change between 38mm vs 42.5mm with 20% sag. The minimum height it reached will however during the stroke. Regarding the 100mm fork, I think there was an excel analysis posted a few comments ago showing little difference in BB height between 120vs100mm.
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Can I use 165x38mm on the back with 100mm front?
Will I see any difference when using 38 between 40mm?
I got 165x38 shock on this frame. You have to use it with special threaded axle. It took one hour of local mechanic's work
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Your travel will be shorter at the back but your bb height won't change between 38mm vs 42.5mm with 20% sag. The minimum height it reached will however during the stroke. Regarding the 100mm fork, I think there was an excel analysis posted a few comments ago showing little difference in BB height between 120vs100mm.
Going from a 100mm to a 120mm fork reduced my pedal strikes at least 90%
I forget the old 100mm number, but I think the 120mm fork raised my BB close to 1/2" if I remember correctly. With the 120mm fork on mine the center of the BB shell to the floor is 13" now. I do remember thinking it raised it more than I expected. Another 1/4" higher would prob be perfect for me.
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Going from a 100mm to a 120mm fork reduced my pedal strikes at least 90%
I forget the old 100mm number, but I think the 120mm fork raised my BB close to 1/2" if I remember correctly. With the 120mm fork on mine the center of the BB shell to the floor is 13" now. I do remember thinking it raised it more than I expected. Another 1/4" higher would prob be perfect for me.
The excel might be wrong :P :o
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Also, I was wondering how long delivery has taken for people when the frames have been in stock, and without custom paint?
I ordered a frame (SL, M, BSA) on 12-1-20. Adam said it was in stock and would take 2-3 weeks. By 1-5-21, 5 weeks later, I still had not received the frame. I emailed Adam on 1-5-21 and he promptly replied, said there was a mistake and the order hadn't shipped yet but they still had a frame in stock and that he would ship out FedEx ASAP. I received the frame yesterday 1-11-21.
So it took me about 6 weeks, but that's because someone on Carbonda's end made a mistake. Mistakes happen; I get that. I'm glad that when they found out about it they quickly shipped FedEx and had a frame to the US in less than a week.
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I paid for a large SL BSA on 12/5 and it arrived 1/11.
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If neither Adam nor Wing answer as fast as usual, they must be doing or having something.
But I wouldn't call it directly the end of Carbonda ;)
Or check your spam folder as I did to find Wing's email ::)
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I've had contact bow, and am hoping they send the invoice, or however they do it tonight.
I can't wait to ride it! Hoping for some races this year!
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Could you post a picture of this axle? where is she located?
The FM936 is designed for trunnion mount shock.
165x40mm = trunnion
165x42.5mm = trunnion
165x38mm = regular shock mount
you should get a trunnion mount shock or look for a conversion kit to mount regular shock on trunnion designed frame.
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I found 165x38 trunnion. 54/22.2mm mount
where?
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I contacted Adam January 4th to order an FM936 Small, the order was shipped January 7th and I received it January 11th! That is very quick! (when they have the item in stock).
I'm gonna fit the frame with a Fox trunnion 165 x 42.5mm the longest travel it can accept. Fork will be Fox 34 SC 120mm 44mm.
Last summer I crossed a guy who worked in a shop where they sell NS bikes, and they are not too happy that people can get the equivalent of the NS synonym frame for such a cheap price...
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I contacted Adam January 4th to order an FM936 Small, the order was shipped January 7th and I received it January 11th! That is very quick! (when they have the item in stock).
Even when in stock, this is a record time !
Was it with DHL ? Where are you located?
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Even when in stock, this is a record time !
Was it with DHL ? Where are you located?
DHL yep! to Quebec Canada!
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I contacted Adam January 4th to order an FM936 Small, the order was shipped January 7th and I received it January 11th! That is very quick! (when they have the item in stock).
I'm gonna fit the frame with a Fox trunnion 165 x 42.5mm the longest travel it can accept. Fork will be Fox 34 SC 120mm 44mm.
Last summer I crossed a guy who worked in a shop where they sell NS bikes, and they are not too happy that people can get the equivalent of the NS synonym frame for such a cheap price...
That's so fast. Was it painted? You'll like the fox. v smooth.
Haha, yes I imagine NS must have come across this forum at somepoint... but that's the way the cookie crumbles when you don't have an exclusive mold :l
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I contacted Adam January 4th to order an FM936 Small, the order was shipped January 7th and I received it January 11th! That is very quick! (when they have the item in stock).
I'm gonna fit the frame with a Fox trunnion 165 x 42.5mm the longest travel it can accept. Fork will be Fox 34 SC 120mm 44mm.
Last summer I crossed a guy who worked in a shop where they sell NS bikes, and they are not too happy that people can get the equivalent of the NS synonym frame for such a cheap price...
Damn, that was quick!
I've still not heard anything back from Adam since my last mail to him 4th january..
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Today I got a new front triangle. Аfter the first ride on the new frame, I found 6 cracks under the hinge. 5 cracks on the left and 1 large on the right.
Manager Adam accepted my response. The new front triangle was made in 2 weeks and delivery took another 5 weeks. The color of the paint does not exactly match what I ordered for the first time.
All this time I rode with cracks, they did not increase.
(https://scontent-iev1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/139519409_3643440912370090_4321765980981685639_o.jpg?_nc_cat=100&ccb=2&_nc_sid=dbeb18&_nc_ohc=U9Qugf2uOKsAX-xCks1&_nc_ht=scontent-iev1-1.xx&oh=7a3887422c8428af2263c2a377f75b99&oe=602652F8)
(https://scontent-iev1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/138606731_3643442702369911_6602820506955064112_o.jpg?_nc_cat=110&ccb=2&_nc_sid=dbeb18&_nc_ohc=bfct_KMpJ2gAX-YGeAr&_nc_oc=AQl0475IDlxM0FZT1PKin7pYTZLxdbfYY5AiFVfGXCeQhuUpkQZpmsQmFuGBBl784SY&_nc_ht=scontent-iev1-1.xx&oh=1b92e50eacd43471423cbfd8daf7cb53&oe=6024413A)
(https://scontent-iev1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/139144208_3643443122369869_8580513510985655155_o.jpg?_nc_cat=101&ccb=2&_nc_sid=dbeb18&_nc_ohc=LPy8alc9Fx0AX89hWZ6&_nc_ht=scontent-iev1-1.xx&oh=e794d8ff68810e798785f4e956693024&oe=60242CBF)
(https://scontent-iev1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/136738030_3643445749036273_2748875730291053090_o.jpg?_nc_cat=103&ccb=2&_nc_sid=dbeb18&_nc_ohc=n6LhLGEFqOwAX_07T_B&_nc_ht=scontent-iev1-1.xx&oh=55930bba90038d635448f4b9b5210d9a&oe=6025D78D)
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Wow, did they replace it for free? Did you sand back the paint to see if it was just painted crack or in the carbon too? :)
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Damn, that was quick!
I've still not heard anything back from Adam since my last mail to him 4th january..
Quoting myself..
Adam finally got back, frame ordered :)
Does anybody know minimum fork steerer tube length for a large frame with 120mm headtube? ~170mm?
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Quoting myself..
Adam finally got back, frame ordered :)
Does anybody know minimum fork steerer tube length for a large frame with 120mm headtube? ~170mm?
yes, replaced by free and free shipping. I did not remove the paint to investigate the crack.
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Quoting myself..
Adam finally got back, frame ordered :)
Does anybody know minimum fork steerer tube length for a large frame with 120mm headtube? ~170mm?
That will depend on the stem and headset and then any personal preferences on the stem/bar height.
170mm would probably be cutting it very close IMO.
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yes, replaced by free and free shipping. I did not remove the paint to investigate the crack.
can you clean up and take a photo? maybe it's just a crack in the paint and adam is reinsuring himself by sending a new triangle
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Well, if the paint only is cracking within like a month anyway any main company would warranty that too. Props to Carbonda for not wanting to investigate further and treating themselves properly.
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Anybody running 27.5x3.0 tires? Who’s got this bike setup for winter?
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Is there any problems with bsa73 version of this frame ? Creacking sounds or something?
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Is there any problems with bsa73 version of this frame ? Creacking sounds or something?
I hope not! I'm in the process of building one.
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Is there any problems with bsa73 version of this frame ? Creacking sounds or something?
Zero creaking on mine after 400+ km
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how come the frame is vastly available with BSA now? back then PF was the only option. As I still haven't started to build up the bike, I don't know if this is going to be a problem or now, but I don't think it will
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I received my FM936 today. Fell in love immediately! :D :D
(https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/attachments/rahmen-rechts-jpg.1195284/)
Looking a bit closer, i found a few painting mistakes. No i dont know: Is that normal with Carbonda?
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Hello I need help.
I’m about to order a frame but I don’t know if I should go with a Small or Medium.
I’m 172cm (5’ 8”)? and my inseam 81cm (32”)?.
I post a picture but my old bike compared to 936...
I hope you could help me
//BJW
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how come the frame is vastly available with BSA now? back then PF was the only option. As I still haven't started to build up the bike, I don't know if this is going to be a problem or now, but I don't think it will
I am coming up on 2,000 miles on my build with PF bb, using DUB no less, and have zero issues with creaking or bearing wear. BSA is not guarantee of a good bb, and PF is not a guarantee of a bad one. Carbonda's manufacturing seems to be good enough for either standard. I'm also using PF on my CFR505 with 10,000 miles on it, again zero issue.
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I received my FM936 today. Fell in love immediately! :D :D
Looking a bit closer, i found a few painting mistakes. No i dont know: Is that normal with Carbonda?
That red color looks sick! Nice choice.
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I received my FM936 today. Fell in love immediately! :D :D
Looking a bit closer, i found a few painting mistakes. No i dont know: Is that normal with Carbonda?
Love the Candy! Looks great! what parts are you going for? I personally didnt have any paint defects.
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I painted my frame myself, spray montana black ;)
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I am coming up on 2,000 miles on my build with PF bb, using DUB no less, and have zero issues with creaking or bearing wear. BSA is not guarantee of a good bb, and PF is not a guarantee of a bad one. Carbonda's manufacturing seems to be good enough for either standard. I'm also using PF on my CFR505 with 10,000 miles on it, again zero issue.
I'm all for PF(BB386 preferably).
BB92 is a Shimano design for their 24mm spindles(or GXP) but not for bigger ones.
Do you ride on the dry mainly?
Or you're lucky. My experience differ.
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Hello I need help.
I’m about to order a frame but I don’t know if I should go with a Small or Medium.
I’m 172cm (5’ 8”)? and my inseam 81cm (32”)?.
I post a picture but my old bike compared to 936...
I hope you could help me
//BJW
What stem measure do you take on the trek?
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What stem measure do you take on the trek?
I use a 80mm stem with 17* drop, no spacers and a flatbar.
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I use a 80mm stem with 17* drop, no spacers and a flatbar.
Bike sizing is a bit subjective, but I'm 5' 9.5" with a 31.75" inseam and on a medium with a 70mm stem and it feels a hair too small for me. I prefer a longer top tube than this medium has, but the seat tube on the large frame was a bit too long for my leg length.
IMHO the small would be ridiculously undersized unless it was for BMX, but like I said - bike sizing can be subjective. ;-)
I also ride a large Fezzari Signal Peak with a 60mm stem, for reference, and it fits me a lot better (could still use a shorter seat tube tho).
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Love the Candy! Looks great! what parts are you going for? I personally didnt have any paint defects.
It will be SID 120mm and DT R535 with remote, Sram GX, Carbonbeam Rims on Ztto Hubs, Formlua Cura and KS LEV. A few pages ago, i posted a spreadsheet with my first plan (trying to get below 11 kg), but that one is pretty oputdated by now.
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I use a 80mm stem with 17* drop, no spacers and a flatbar.
I think your size is an M, with a shorter stem ... maybe a 40mm or 50mm ...
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Then I go for a M.. Thanks!
I probably go for SID dampers but DT 232 looks great are there anybody who has mounted a DT R232 and can answer if it’s fits with remote. Looks like the cable is pointing down and I’m worried that there is to little room for the cable routing.
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Here is a picture with a R535. I put a 14 mm nipple there for size comparison. I don't think that normal outer cables can be bent tight enough for that.
But there was a little 90° pipe with the shock. I could imagine that, if you turn the shock around so the adjuster faces toward the seat tube, you could rout your cable below the shock's head and then make the turn up with that little pipe. Problem with that: how to reach the air valve in that position?
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Here is a picture with a R535. I put a 14 mm nipple there for size comparison. I don't think that normal outer cables can be bent tight enough for that.
But there was a little 90° pipe with the shock. I could imagine that, if you turn the shock around so the adjuster faces toward the seat tube, you could rout your cable below the shock's head and then make the turn up with that little pipe. Problem with that: how to reach the air valve in that position?
Ohh that’s tight...
But I love the color on your frame!
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Here is a picture with a R535. I put a 14 mm nipple there for size comparison. I don't think that normal outer cables can be bent tight enough for that.
But there was a little 90° pipe with the shock. I could imagine that, if you turn the shock around so the adjuster faces toward the seat tube, you could rout your cable below the shock's head and then make the turn up with that little pipe. Problem with that: how to reach the air valve in that position?
Are the R535 cable attached from the side or under?
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It is attached at the side, but with the 90° pipe, you can have it as you want.
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I would have preferred BSA72 more than the BB92, as I'm running the 30mm spindle from Race Face. But it is what it is and I'll use a screwed together wheel MFG /Toke Ninja like BB to avoid to much movement.
@zilcho
what kind of crank and BB are you running?
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I would have preferred BSA72 more than the BB92, as I'm running the 30mm spindle from Race Face. But it is what it is and I'll use a screwed together wheel MFG /Toke Ninja like BB to avoid to much movement.
@zilcho
what kind of crank and BB are you running?
GX Eagle DUB crankset with SRAM PF92 DUB bb, just grease for installation
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It is attached at the side, but with the 90° pipe, you can have it as you want.
https://www.bike24.com/p2359915.html
This shift housing probably can help. I ordered one and will see how it fit but I have much more room with Fox 165x38
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Got mine built. Came in about 25.5 lbs, 11.6 kg.
(https://i.imgur.com/O8y12se.jpg)
Build basics- large SL frame, Fox Float DPS, 120 Sid Ultimate, BTLOS 27 w/ 240 EXP, Giant carbon bars, Uno stem, Race Face Turbine Dropper, XTR shifter, derailer and cassette, MT900 cranks, Chiner seat and pedals, Maxxis Ardent.
Initial Impressions
HTA measures about 66.5 degrees, about 75 for the STA
Bottom bracket is low, about 3/4" lower than my Evil Following MB, not hitting my pedals much, but definitely aware
Rides great, climbs like a mountain goat and feels about the same as the Following going down
Very flickable and playful
Really fun ride
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Got mine built. Came in about 25.5 lbs, 11.6 kg.
Build basics- large SL frame, Fox Float DPS, 120 Sid Ultimate, BTLOS 27 w/ 240 EXP, Giant carbon bars, Uno stem, Race Face Turbine Dropper, XTR shifter, derailer and cassette, MT900 cranks, Chiner seat and pedals, Maxxis Ardent.
Initial Impressions
HTA measures about 66.5 degrees, about 75 for the STA
Bottom bracket is low, about 3/4" lower than my Evil Following MB, not hitting my pedals much, but definitely aware
Rides great, climbs like a mountain goat and feels about the same as the Following going down
Very flickable and playful
Really fun ride
Awesome build. Nice weight and those tan ardents look great Looks similar to what I'm planning. Got some tan rekons. Just waiting on BTLOS i30 wheelset to arrive and for SID Ultimate to be back in stock; can't find one anywhere at the moment.
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Got mine built. Came in about 25.5 lbs, 11.6 kg.
Build basics- large SL frame, Fox Float DPS, 120 Sid Ultimate, BTLOS 27 w/ 240 EXP, Giant carbon bars, Uno stem, Race Face Turbine Dropper, XTR shifter, derailer and cassette, MT900 cranks, Chiner seat and pedals, Maxxis Ardent.
Initial Impressions
HTA measures about 66.5 degrees, about 75 for the STA
Bottom bracket is low, about 3/4" lower than my Evil Following MB, not hitting my pedals much, but definitely aware
Rides great, climbs like a mountain goat and feels about the same as the Following going down
Very flickable and playful
Really fun ride
Realized I was off on my weight. It's about 24.6 lbs, 11.2 kg. Also, got a few PMs about the cranks. They are the "non-group XTR cranks" that Shimano was selling back in 2019 when they were having trouble making the new XTR cranks. They are basically XT cranks with different paint and an XTR chain ring.
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After NS Bikes Synonym, Stevens, Mendiz X40, Conor Bikes WRC Thunder.... here is the Vitus Rapide FS !
2 500 £, the price is pretty good actually for a branded chiner, remote lockout suspension, 12s...
https://vitusbikes.com/collections/rapide-fs/products/vitus-rapide-fs-crs-mountain-bike
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0365/1272/7173/products/Vitus_Rapide-FS-CRS-Mountain-Bike-2021_01_2667x2000.jpg?v=1612800564)
Coming soon, 120mm version ?
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...Coming soon, 120mm version ?
Probably ;) since they state in their website:
We're a strong team of passionate engineers, product managers, designers, marketeers and athletes.
We are growing, developing and learning all the time.
We are simply trying to make the best bikes we can so you can RIDE MORE.
That is good for all of us owner or soon owner ??? for a better eventual resale of our bike.
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NOOO WAY! Its been a ride boys and girls, best forum ever :-* I need a new bolt for the chainstay to frame pivot so hopefully this will make it easer to source one!
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Does this mean shipments to North America will cease?
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Does this mean shipments to North America will cease?
Who knows, euro too since CRC/Wiggle is the main bike shop for the UK and europe. Maybe they don't have an exclusive license.
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I hope not, this was a serious contender for my 2022 project!
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I hope not, this was a serious contender for my 2022 project!
You better get yours ordered.
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I see a SIDluxe with remote ;D
But thanks für remembering... there was something i wanted to do and the sun is shining outside. Give me a few hours...
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Got mine finished :)
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Nice!
I also have DT Lockout lever. I think it is the best you can buy
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Got mine finished :)
What a beautiful color !!! What color is?
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I called it "dark candy red" and sent Adam this picture (https://i.pinimg.com/originals/df/f7/f4/dff7f4e64c7376aa5998583262c2a918.jpg) as reference. After two days, he sent me a picture of a test piece to confirm.
Yes, the result is a bit lighter as expected, but i'm totally fine with it.
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Got mine finished :)
Nice looking bike!
How do you like DT shock ?
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Can't tell about it so far, as i didn't even ride enough to find the right pressure. And it is my first full suspension bike, so i might need some time to get used to it.
I'll post a review in a few weeks :)
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Hey Guys, anyone have a link to the shock hardware? I bent mine.
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Hey Guys, anyone have a link to the shock hardware? I bent mine.
You can meassure it and go to your local hardwarestore...or send adam/carbonda a massage (which will take a while due to Chinese newyear).
Ps how did you manage that?
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That must have been a hard hit/landing? Nothing else damaged on the shock or frame?
I'd contact Adam at Carbonda and try to get a replacement, he got me new lower pivot hardware anyway.
Would be nice to be able to source some of this stuff local though.
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That must have been a hard hit/landing? Nothing else damaged on the shock or frame?
I'd contact Adam at Carbonda and try to get a replacement, he got me new lower pivot hardware anyway.
Would be nice to be able to source some of this stuff local though.
Uh, I think I ride this a bit harder than most intended use is what it comes down to. I treat it as a little trail bike rather than an xc weapon. As far as measuring it, and local hardware store sourcing, I have yet to find that male/female combo. Likely just need to look harder. Adam hasn't gotten back to me about it.
And nothing else damaged :) I've gone through a rear wheel, smashed a derailleur, and pinched a few tires but the frame itself is still rock solid!!
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Uh, I think I ride this a bit harder than most intended use is what it comes down to. I treat it as a little trail bike rather than an xc weapon. As far as measuring it, and local hardware store sourcing, I have yet to find that male/female combo. Likely just need to look harder. Adam hasn't gotten back to me about it.
And nothing else damaged :) I've gone through a rear wheel, smashed a derailleur, and pinched a few tires but the frame itself is still rock solid!!
This shouldn't bent by riding hard with a working shock/linkage!
I presume you dailed in your shock as it should? You did not blown through your shock wright?
If not, I would check the bearings...
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This shouldn't bent by riding hard with a working shock/linkage!
I presume you dailed in your shock as it should? You did not blown through your shock wright?
If not, I would check the bearings...
When I stripped this down to do the 200hr service on the shock is when I found this. All bearings appeared fine so far as I could tell. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary when checking it. Is there anything in particular I should look for when checking the bearings? They were all seated appropriately, no sticky points, nothing grimy... etc. The swingarm mounts appropriately as well, once again, so far as I could tell.
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When I stripped this down to do the 200hr service on the shock is when I found this. All bearings appeared fine so far as I could tell. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary when checking it. Is there anything in particular I should look for when checking the bearings? They were all seated appropriately, no sticky points, nothing grimy... etc. The swingarm mounts appropriately as well, once again, so far as I could tell.
Seems fine then...grimy and sticky could be an issue...but if its smooth...
The shock itself pivots fine also? If this could happen when everything else is running smooth, I would not ask Adam foe a replacement...it wil be the same quality. My 2ct
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Uh, I think I ride this a bit harder than most intended use...
Thank you for giving us all increased confidence in the frame :o :D
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Thank you for giving us all increased confidence in the frame :o :D
My poor technique and lack of braking is really for you fine folks LOL
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Hi guys, I wanted to know if the bike easily accepts the entire 165 * 42'5 shock travel. I ask this because there are bicycles that, although they accept 115mm of travel, it is very difficult to get them to give the full travel. I don't know if I explain myself well, since my native language is not English.
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Hi guys, I wanted to know if the bike easily accepts the entire 165 * 42'5 shock travel. I ask this because there are bicycles that, although they accept 115mm of travel, it is very difficult to get them to give the full travel. I don't know if I explain myself well, since my native language is not English.
I have a 42.5mm shock..rs deluxe and with 25% sag it uses 80-90% of its travel..first i did 30% sag which did use full travel, but not that often... Less tsag means less pedalstrikes (in flat terrain with a lot of turns).
Hope it helps
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I have a 42.5mm shock..rs deluxe and with 25% sag it uses 80-90% of its travel..first i did 30% sag which did use full travel, but not that often... Less tsag means less pedalstrikes (in flat terrain with a lot of turns).
Hope it helps
Thanks for answering, it helps me, but it raises more questions. In my case I have a trek top fuel xc with 100mm of travel. I have put a 120mm fork and as the frame supports it, I have also put a 165 * 45 shock absorber (it came from the factory with a 165 * 38 shock absorber). And although in theory it would have to have 120-120 travels, the truth is that the bike is not designed to take advantage of the entire shock absorber travel and I think it has been about 110mm of travel. My dilemma is that I don't know if when changing frames I will notice a lot of improvement going down. Keep in mind that the Trek suspension system is a "horst link" style and this system makes the suspension very independent from braking (which is not the case with the mono pivot system). On the other hand, I like the geometry of the carbonda, but I don't know if it will be too extreme for xc marathon (steering angle about 66º with 120mm fork). Going down I'm not good, but I'm not bad either. What is your opinion?
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The 42.5mm shock works well, it seems to give more than 100mm but as far as I know we don't know exactly how much travel but probably 110-120mm. It feels natural with this stroke size so no worries there.
The bike is being raced a national level (https://www.facebook.com/patxiciafanpage) and was even in the recent XCO world champs so it's clearly capable. I'm going to be riding it with 120mm in the National Points Series (hopefully) here in Ireland and I'm going to be keeping the 120mm Sid Select rather than 100mm due to the terrain here. I wouldn't worry about the head angle, people said the same every time it gets slacker - You don't go slower ;D Where are you racing and what's the terrain like?
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Not sure if this has already been posted, but Vitus (ChainreactionCycles.com's house brand) now offers the FM936 as their new Rapide FS model:
(https://i.imgur.com/CoJSDCN.png)
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The 42.5mm shock works well, it seems to give more than 100mm but as far as I know we don't know exactly how much travel but probably 110-120mm. It feels natural with this stroke size so no worries there.
The bike is being raced a national level (https://www.facebook.com/patxiciafanpage) and was even in the recent XCO world champs so it's clearly capable. I'm going to be riding it with 120mm in the National Points Series (hopefully) here in Ireland and I'm going to be keeping the 120mm Sid Select rather than 100mm due to the terrain here. I wouldn't worry about the head angle, people said the same every time it gets slacker - You don't go slower ;D Where are you racing and what's the terrain like?
Hello, I live in Mallorca (Spain) and I do all kinds of routes and terrain, of course I also endured descents. In my land there is a lot of Stone. The idea is to change bikes to get a better performance going down and not going up slower ... If the carbonda doesn't go down much faster than my current top fuel xc, I don't think I'm interested in changing bikes.
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Well
Hello, I live in Mallorca (Spain) and I do all kinds of routes and terrain, of course I also endured descents. In my land there is a lot of Stone. The idea is to change bikes to get a better performance going down and not going up slower ... If the carbonda doesn't go down much faster than my current top fuel xc, I don't think I'm interested in changing bikes.
That's quite dificult to quantify because it is really personal. I can say that the slack head angle makes it feel very confident on the descent, I don't feel like I'm underbiked. I have to remind myself that I'm on a 12kg-ish XC bike and slow down.
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I had the first ride on my favourite trails :D
For my feeling, the rear is quite bumpy. But i'm not used to full suspension, so it might be relatively normal. I'm about 86 kg plus camelback and have 300 PSI in the rear shock.
Compared to my hardtail with 640 mm toptube (now 664) and 70° head tube (now 66), it feels much safer in descends. I'm an unconfident rider in descends and i'd say, changing to this bike gives an equal advantage like switching from 26" to 29" ten years ago.
On paveways, you just notice that you can actually see your front hub in front of your handlebar - and you ride just as usual, nothing has changed. I don't really feel slower on even grounds or uphill than before.
So i personally got what i wanted: A fast marathon bike wich gives me some extra confidence in descends.
But i think, this depends a lot on your build. When using trail bike tires, fork and weights, you should not compare uphill performance with a marathon bike.
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I had the first ride on my favourite trails :D
For my feeling, the rear is quite bumpy. But i'm not used to full suspension, so it might be relatively normal. I'm about 86 kg plus camelback and have 300 PSI in the rear shock.
Compared to my hardtail with 640 mm toptube (now 664) and 70° head tube (now 66), it feels much safer in descends. I'm an unconfident rider in descends and i'd say, changing to this bike gives an equal advantage like switching from 26" to 29" ten years ago.
On paveways, you just notice that you can actually see your front hub in front of your handlebar - and you ride just as usual, nothing has changed. I don't really feel slower on even grounds or uphill than before.
So i personally got what i wanted: A fast marathon bike wich gives me some extra confidence in descends.
But i think, this depends a lot on your build. When using trail bike tires, fork and weights, you should not compare uphill performance with a marathon bike.
300psi :o?
Is this correct for your shock...seems awfull lot for your weight.
Sag should be between 25 - 30%>>>so check it please. Could also explain the bouncy ride...also rebound could be off.
Good luck
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Max. pressure for DT535 is 333 psi. So yes, 300 is quite a lot. But i used about 75% travel on my first ride, wich was pretty careful because of the slippery ground. When i gain some confidence and ride harder, there is not much room for lower pressure.
I started with 25 % sag on the first checkout ride. That was way too bouncy for me, felt like using 50% travel when riding an even asphalt road.
Rebound is at 11 from 22 clicks.
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300psi :o?
Is this correct for your shock...seems awfull lot for your weight.
Sag should be between 25 - 30%>>>so check it please. Could also explain the bouncy ride...also rebound could be off.
Good luck
I weigh 75kg and I have 270 psi in my Fox Float DPS on this frame to get the right sag.
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Re, shock travel. I have 25% sag and don’t come close to the 42.5mm stroke. See pic.
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I weigh 75kg and I have 270 psi in my Fox Float DPS on this frame to get the right sag.
I weigh 80 kg and use the same pressure to flex 25%. This frame has a lot of leverage: if you measure the wheel travel by flipping the bike and measuring the axle height from the floor, then the total travel is, mindful, 120 mm on a 165x40 shock.
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Max. pressure for DT535 is 333 psi. So yes, 300 is quite a lot. But i used about 75% travel on my first ride, wich was pretty careful because of the slippery ground. When i gain some confidence and ride harder, there is not much room for lower pressure.
I started with 25 % sag on the first checkout ride. That was way too bouncy for me, felt like using 50% travel when riding an even asphalt road.
Rebound is at 11 from 22 clicks.
Bouncy rides means wrong setting in my opinion... To fast rebound or/and to less sag.... Using 50% travel on tarmac says nothing...depends on shock etc... If you're using your travel to fast, think of using volumespacers
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Using Fox DPS with SV air can, 70+ kg weight and 150-160 psi with around 25% sag. Secret is the air chamber volumes on your shocks. Your both air chambers: positive and negative has too big air chambers for this frame, result: you need 300 psi for proper sag. At first I'll try to reduce volume of both chambers.
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Using Fox DPS with SV air can, 70+ kg weight and 150-160 psi with around 25% sag. Secret is the air chamber volumes on your shocks. Your both air chambers: positive and negative has too big air chambers for this frame, result: you need 300 psi for proper sag. At first I'll try to reduce volume of both chambers.
Yes I know that. Most fox dps from ebay are here with a huge negative camera. So we pump 250-280psi for 70-80kg
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May I ask you to measure this distance when the shock is deflated?
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Yes I know that. Most fox dps from ebay are here with a huge negative camera. So we pump 250-280psi for 70-80kg
I agree. Im running 270-300psi otherwise too low BB @75kg with gear. So the solution is to put a volume spacer? did anyone do this? I'll buy a spacer if it works well.
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I agree. Im running 270-300psi otherwise too low BB @75kg with gear. So the solution is to put a volume spacer? did anyone do this? I'll buy a spacer if it works well.
it is necessary to reduce the volume of the negative chamber. Perhaps you need to change EVOL chamber
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Yes I know that. Most fox dps from ebay are here with a huge negative camera. So we pump 250-280psi for 70-80kg
Volume is not psi...
And you do not reduce the negative chamber with spacers.
But yes by adding them you need less psi to get the same sag...but you do this to reduce the chance off bottoming out!
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I agree. Im running 270-300psi otherwise too low BB @75kg with gear. So the solution is to put a volume spacer? did anyone do this? I'll buy a spacer if it works well.
Solution is to put volume spacer in positive chamber AND add custom spacer to negative chamber or fill it with some viscous grease, something like a PM600.
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Got my frame yesterday unfortunately one shock bolt for the trunnion mount was missing. Does anybody know were I can find a suitable bolt..
Found this one but don’t know if it fits.
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/vitus-trunnion-mount-shock-bolt-kit-2018 (https://www.wiggle.co.uk/vitus-trunnion-mount-shock-bolt-kit-2018)
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May I ask you to measure this distance when the shock is deflated?
About 106-108mm
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About 106-108mm
Interestingly, I have exactly 120mm with a shock stroke of 40mm
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Interestingly, I have exactly 120mm with a shock stroke of 40mm
Seems like the method of measure could be vastly different. Are you using a tape measure? A flat edge?
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Seems like the method of measure could be vastly different. Are you using a tape measure? A flat edge?
yes, measured with a tape measure. The saddle padding could have played a role. But I tend to trust my measurements
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It gave me 110mm with a 42.5 shock
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Hello, I live in Mallorca (Spain) and I do all kinds of routes and terrain, of course I also endured descents. In my land there is a lot of Stone. The idea is to change bikes to get a better performance going down and not going up slower ... If the carbonda doesn't go down much faster than my current top fuel xc, I don't think I'm interested in changing bikes.
I am also from Mallorca. I can't tell you how low your trek is, but carbonda gives you a lot of security and is very fast.
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It gave me 110mm with a 42.5 shock
three measurements and three results :) need to collect statistics)
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I got about 118 mm of travel when I measured mine.
Method - deflate shock, remove real wheel, clamp frame level. Measured height, put a jack under the rear triangle and pushed up to about 118 mm. Maybe could have gone a little more but didn't want to push it too far.
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I got about 118 mm of travel when I measured mine.
Method - deflate shock, remove real wheel, clamp frame level. Measured height, put a jack under the rear triangle and pushed up to about 118 mm. Maybe could have gone a little more but didn't want to push it too far.
what is the shock absorber travel?
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what is the shock absorber travel?
Fox DPS 165 X 42.5
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three measurements and three results :) need to collect statistics)
Perhaps my method was somewhat rudimentary and fast ... maybe if I am more precise in measuring a little more distance ... I have to measure again.
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I had a quick question. I am installing 160mm rotors, do I need to buy a shimano adaptor, something like this - . I have the Shimano 8120 brakes.. First bike build. so trying to figure out..
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074HRPL6R/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_PNEG5012A9Q9P5JJ7PGS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks
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I had a quick question. I am installing 160mm rotors, do I need to buy a shimano adaptor, something like this - . I have the Shimano 8120 brakes.. First bike build. so trying to figure out..
No... Its all good for 160mm... For 180 you need pm to pm adapter. The pic is is to pm.
But no...no adapter needed for 160.
But I would use 180mm if haevier than 75kg
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B074HRPL6R/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_PNEG5012A9Q9P5JJ7PGS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks
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No... Its all good for 160mm... For 180 you need pm to pm adapter. The pic is is to pm.
But no...no adapter needed for 160.
But I would use 180mm if haevier than 75kg
You are right. I have 180mm rotors, i thought I had bought 160mm, So do I need to buy pm adapters for front and back ?
So something like this - 2 of them - ? https://www.amazon.com/Zeno-Rotor-Adaptor-Mount-Caliper/dp/B07YC2VPNM/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3G31FV7B1ICGX&dchild=1&keywords=180mm%2Badapter%2Bpm&qid=1613856670&sprefix=180mm%2Bpm%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-2&th=1
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You are right. I have 180mm rotors, i thought I had bought 160mm, So do I need to buy pm adapters for front and back ?
So something like this - 2 of them - ? https://www.amazon.com/Zeno-Rotor-Adaptor-Mount-Caliper/dp/B07YC2VPNM/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3G31FV7B1ICGX&dchild=1&keywords=180mm%2Badapter%2Bpm&qid=1613856670&sprefix=180mm%2Bpm%2Caps%2C128&sr=8-2&th=1
Yes thats the one
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So I need 2 right ?
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So I need 2 right ?
You only need one for the frame. If your forks are set up for 160 (I doubt they are), you'll need one for your forks to run 180 rotors.
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Thanks.. It looks like the fork is setup for 180, so 1 is required..
Cheers,
J
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Uh, I think I ride this a bit harder than most intended use is what it comes down to. I treat it as a little trail bike rather than an xc weapon. As far as measuring it, and local hardware store sourcing, I have yet to find that male/female combo. Likely just need to look harder. Adam hasn't gotten back to me about it.
And nothing else damaged :) I've gone through a rear wheel, smashed a derailleur, and pinched a few tires but the frame itself is still rock solid!!
It's called a "Sex bolt" You should be able to find them online if your local hardware store doesn't have them.
I know, I thought it was a joke the first time I read it in another thread here somewhere about 6 months ago but that is genuinely what you will find them listed under. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt
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It's called a "Sex bolt" You should be able to find them online if your local hardware store doesn't have them.
I know, I thought it was a joke the first time I read it in another thread here somewhere about 6 months ago but that is genuinely what you will find them listed under. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sex_bolt
Heck yeah! thank you very much emu26!
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Soooo.... Year later...
I was thinking to remove the bottombracked because of a creak since the last 2 rides.
But no...hell no...not the same shit!
A lot of play at the lower pivot point, drive side. Can move it almost a cm(0,5 up and same down)
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Soooo.... Year later...
I was thinking to remove the bottombracked because of a creak since the last 2 rides.
But no...hell no...not the same shit!
A lot of play at the lower pivot point, drive side. Can move it almost a cm(0,5 up and same down)
Did you feel any backlash while driving?
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Did you feel any backlash while driving?
First I tought it was because of a soft rear tire, but wasn't. Didn't care much, because it was a bit muddy... But now I know it, it al make sence...last year I did notice it because of because of wobly tail.
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First I tought it was because of a soft rear tire, but wasn't. Didn't care much, because it was a bit muddy... But now I know it, it al make sence...last year I did notice it because of because of wobly tail.
Is the frame still warranted?
and another question, can you film the backlash?
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Is the frame still warranted?
Hopefully...its 1,5yr old
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Pull the pivot pin out of the frame and measure the length, if it's much over 80mm you'll get play. I got that info from Adam when I had a creak (thought it was BB as well) and found a bit of play in the lower pivot. I just filed mine down to maybe 81mm and then everything snugged up and no play. Been solid ever since. I did order some new lower pivot hardware, but haven't needed to touch it yet.
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Pull the pivot pin out of the frame and measure the length, if it's much over 80mm you'll get play. I got that info from Adam when I had a creak (thought it was BB as well) and found a bit of play in the lower pivot. I just filed mine down to maybe 81mm and then everything snugged up and no play. Been solid ever since. I did order some new lower pivot hardware, but haven't needed to touch it yet.
Will check when @home...but the pics will tell otherwise I think..
(https://i.ibb.co/LSX5VjZ/20210223-162726.jpg) (https://ibb.co/rkRsD8w)
(https://i.ibb.co/DWHbHWd/20210223-162720.jpg) (https://ibb.co/V9cNc96)
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Mine has the pivot pin inserted the other way, the bolt piece is on the non-drive side on mine - and that's where I had a small amount of play that was causing the creaks.
The problem was the pivot pin was too long so even with the bolt side tightened to the max there was still movement. I rode it for about 4-6 months before it started making noise and then I noticed the pivot had some play AFTER redoing the BB and the creak was still there. Once I shortened the pivot pin (just filed it down to length) I could then tighten the bolt to spec and actually feel it was apply pressure, the pivot play was gone and so was the noise.
Of course your issue could be completely diff, but an easy check. The spare pivot pin I ordered was exactly 80mm, I guess some of the frames went out with out of spec hardware?
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Mine has the pivot pin inserted the other way, the bolt piece is on the non-drive side on mine - and that's where I had a small amount of play that was causing the creaks.
The problem was the pivot pin was too long so even with the bolt side tightened to the max there was still movement. I rode it for about 4-6 months before it started making noise and then I noticed the pivot had some play AFTER redoing the BB and the creak was still there. Once I shortened the pivot pin (just filed it down to length) I could then tighten the bolt to spec and actually feel it was apply pressure, the pivot play was gone and so was the noise.
Of course your issue could be completely diff, but an easy check. The spare pivot pin I ordered was exactly 80mm, I guess some of the frames went out with out of spec hardware?
I think this is the source of my occasional creaking, too. Did you order the spare from Carbonda or source it elsewhere? When I was trying to find the creak I had pulled every bolt out but was unable to get the pin to move laterally, only spin in place, and then stripped the bolt head reinstalling. It holds for now but needs replacing.
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I ordered it from Carbonda - like $15 shipped. Mainly ordered it because I was afraid I was gonna strip my bolt head out as well trying to get it tight enough, mine would spin too when tightened to almost the point of stripping. I could feel the movement in the pivot still if I squeezed the non-drive crank arm against the chainstay and put my finger on the pivot. Once I shortened that pivot pin like Adam suggested it fully tightened with ease and didn't spin and most importantly didn't creak anymore.
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I ordered it from Carbonda - like $15 shipped. Mainly ordered it because I was afraid I was gonna strip my bolt head out as well trying to get it tight enough, mine would spin too when tightened to almost the point of stripping. I could feel the movement in the pivot still if I squeezed the non-drive crank arm against the chainstay and put my finger on the pivot. Once I shortened that pivot pin like Adam suggested it fully tightened with ease and didn't spin and most importantly didn't creak anymore.
I do so hope you're right...I was so fedup about it...I allmost ordered a tranition spur frameset ::)
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I have exactly the same issue. The male of the bolt was entering from the driveside. The bolt is aluminum so it doesn't bite as much as a steel bolt. The solution was to make the female enter from the drive side, locktite the male bolt with plumber's ptfe tape. If this bolt comes out during a ride, say goodbye to your frame ahaha
Futhermore, I believe the female side should be a little longer. It doesnt extend all the way into the interference fit area of the chainstay hole. You can see this in the photo.
I would like to install a stainless bolt however I'm struggling to find one. If anyone find a source please do let me know! Thanks
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I’m gonna pull my bolt and measure it. I hope they started shipping the frame with the shorter bolt at some point and we all don’t have this problem.
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Today I have reviewed and also movement here on this axis ... I will clean and disassemble ... any solution?
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Today I have reviewed and also movement here on this axis ... I will clean and disassemble ... any solution?
Think as above...to long bolt...will check mine as soon as possible. Also had contact with Adam, said the same
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Today I have reviewed and also movement here on this axis ... I will clean and disassemble ... any solution?
Put the bolt so female is on drive side. This means the torque from the drive side doesnt cause the male to become loose. Not ideal but it works....
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So ... the problem is with this axis? is too long? And it doesn't keep the swingarm tight enough? The female was next to the transmission, normally I don't notice anything loosening, but still everything is tight, there is movement, it doesn't fit well.
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Pull the pivot pin out of the frame and measure the length, if it's much over 80mm you'll get play. I got that info from Adam when I had a creak (thought it was BB as well) and found a bit of play in the lower pivot. I just filed mine down to maybe 81mm and then everything snugged up and no play. Been solid ever since. I did order some new lower pivot hardware, but haven't needed to touch it yet.
This is the total length ... do I have to file it?
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This is the total length ... do I have to file it?
Mine was 82mm, I did it..have to check if it's good
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That was what I had as well, about 83mm. Filed mine down to almost 80mm I think and that did it for me.
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That was what I had as well, about 83mm. Filed mine down to almost 80mm I think and that did it for me.
Put it back together and yes the play was gone and the bolt was tightened easely! But I can feel a sharp edge at the inside of the spot where the bolt was sitting...I'm afraid it sanded through the carbon..so send Adam a question about it...would like to get a new rear because of it.
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https://icancycling.com/collections/mtb-frame/products/cross-country-bike-boost-s3#
And so the list grows
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That ICAN isn't quite the same thing. Front triangle looks the same, but the rear triangle is different.
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Got it! All the way from china!
But do i need to buy some seats to the bearings in the steertube?.. Or is it like i think it is, just to put the bearing against the carbon. (if you look at the pix you can se my white yt jeffsy with bearing seats) how did you guys do here?
Next question, did anyone try a deluxe ultimate 165x40? Im thinking of paring it with a sid select 120 and maybe rekon 2.4 and rekon race 2.4. Anyone running a deluxe?
Best regards
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For you suspension design guys out there, how does the ICAN model compare to the Carbonda Model? I noticed that the rear triangle has a pivot point in the rear chainstay. Would that make it more of a Horst link system? I'm asking because I'm really looking for a zippy suspension platform. Right now, I ride a 2016 Diamondback Mission 2 160mm/160mm and it's a heavy tank. It's definitely the type of bike where you just sit in the saddle and spin. I'm really looking for a short travel bike that urges you to get out of the saddle and go faster, kind of like a fun hardtail. Does this frame ride like that? If not, do you guys think that the ICAN model would ride more like that?
https://icancycling.com/collections/mtb-frame/products/cross-country-bike-boost-s3#
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Got it! All the way from china!
But do i need to buy some seats to the bearings in the steertube?.. Or is it like i think it is, just to put the bearing against the carbon. (if you look at the pix you can se my white yt jeffsy with bearing seats) how did you guys do here?
Next question, did anyone try a deluxe ultimate 165x40? Im thinking of paring it with a sid select 120 and maybe rekon 2.4 and rekon race 2.4. Anyone running a deluxe?
Best regards
Yes, IS (integrated) headset standard on the FM936. Bearings just sit directly in the frame.
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For you suspension design guys out there, how does the ICAN model compare to the Carbonda Model? I noticed that the rear triangle has a pivot point in the rear chainstay. Would that make it more of a Horst link system? I'm asking because I'm really looking for a zippy suspension platform. Right now, I ride a 2016 Diamondback Mission 2 160mm/160mm and it's a heavy tank. It's definitely the type of bike where you just sit in the saddle and spin. I'm really looking for a short travel bike that urges you to get out of the saddle and go faster, kind of like a fun hardtail. Does this frame ride like that? If not, do you guys think that the ICAN model would ride more like that?
https://icancycling.com/collections/mtb-frame/products/cross-country-bike-boost-s3#
I can only tell you about the 936. Geo on the ICAN looks similar, but heavier with the chain stay pivot.
The 936 is a really fast fun bike, night and day from your DB. It won't be as fast through the really really rough stuff, but will fly just about everywhere else. The geo makes it really stable down hill, but you'll still be limited by the 120 mm travel. It climbs like a mountain goat, doesn't matter if it's steep and technical or a fire road.
I built it as an 11 kilo rowdy XC and have not been disappointed.
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Which size would you recommend for 170cm, size small or Medium?
I will use as trailbike 120/120mm...
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Which size would you recommend for 170cm, size small or Medium?
I will use as trailbike 120/120mm...
I would say small....i'm 174 and on a Medium with 35mm stem.. Medium could if you got large upper body...but standover height could be an issue then.
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Which size would you recommend for 170cm, size small or Medium?
I will use as trailbike 120/120mm...
Medium + short stem.
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Today I cut the axle to 80.5mm and the problem has been solved, there is no more play.
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Just finished my build. Target weight was under 11kg and landed on 10,8 total with pedals.
I hope I can come out on a suspension tuning ride tomorrow. ;D
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Just finished my build. Target weight was under 11kg and landed on 10,8 total with pedals.
I hope I can come out on a suspension tuning ride tomorrow. ;D
Looks amazing! Wow, fantastic weight. Are you using carbon bars?
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Looks amazing! Wow, fantastic weight. Are you using carbon bars?
Thank you! Yes I’m using a New Ultimate carbon bar.
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Your jeffsey, needed headset bearing cups. The chinese frame has built in integrated cups, the bearing sits direct in the frame.
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Thank you! Yes I’m using a New Ultimate carbon bar.
Any chance you could give us a component list?
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Standard frame, size M
Complete GX eagle drivetrain
with alu crank with garbuk 34T.
Fork: RS Sid select 120
Shock: sidluxe ultimate 165x42.5
Brakes: SLX 7100
Rotors: Kncn Razor 160/180
Bar: Newultimate evo flat bar 700mm
Stem: Ritchey trail 45mm
Seatpost: Reverse carbon
Seat: Fizik tundra m2
Pedals: XTR
Tires: Schwalbe racing Ralph/Ray 2.25
Wheels: some cheap no name 1550g
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Standard frame, size M
Wheels: some cheap no name 1550g
Cheap and light? Come on man you've got to provide links.
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Cheap and light? Come on man you've got to provide links.
I payed 350€ for them on sale half a year ago. It’s non boost carbon wheel set that I drive with problem solvers adapters. Can’t find a link sorry.
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6 months old, so they are cheap, light and (somewhat) durable. Nice work.
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Hey guys,
anyone checked the rear travel when using a 165x42.5 instead of 165x40mm?
Also the tyre clearance when fully compressed with 29x2.35 or 29x2.4 tyres?
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Hey guys,
anyone checked the rear travel when using a 165x42.5 instead of 165x40mm?
Also the tyre clearance when fully compressed with 29x2.35 or 29x2.4 tyres?
Yes. This topic has been discussed over and over in this 100+ page thread. 165x42.5 works fine, but 165x40 is the maximum official spec from Carbonda. I am currently running 165x42.5 Fox DPS with a Maxxis Aggressor 2.4 rear, and there are no clerance issues.
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Hey guys,
anyone checked the rear travel when using a 165x42.5 instead of 165x40mm?
Also the tyre clearance when fully compressed with 29x2.35 or 29x2.4 tyres?
Running 42.5 with a Maxxis Ardent 2.4 and no issues.
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Hey guys I just saw that Vitus is using this frame for their new Cross Country bike. https://vitusbikes.com/collections/rapide-fs
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Hey guys I just saw that Vitus is using this frame for their new Cross Country bike. https://vitusbikes.com/collections/rapide-fs
It was mentioned few pages ago already with a nice picture.
This thread is so big, that we repeat ourselves regularly ;D
In other news, I still don't have my frame, but... it is being painted. Finger crossed!
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What is going on with your frame? This seems a bit long to wait???
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Does anyone know of a good deal on a well working shock, 165x42.5? The Fox DPS for Giant is no longer on ebay. I would prefer a remote shock, but I guess that is even more hard to find.
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Does anyone know of a good deal on a well working shock, 165x42.5? The Fox DPS for Giant is no longer on ebay. I would prefer a remote shock, but I guess that is even more hard to find.
Yyou can search for a es deluxe or sid...those are available for around 250 - 300 euros
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Looking for a shock. Any reason this wouldn't work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fox-Rear-Shock-Float-DPS-165-x-42-5-Performance-Elite-Trunnion-C57Q-Giant-Anthem/265071814546?hash=item3db782e792:g:JcsAAOSw8~Zfs-ZR
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Looking for a shock. Any reason this wouldn't work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fox-Rear-Shock-Float-DPS-165-x-42-5-Performance-Elite-Trunnion-C57Q-Giant-Anthem/265071814546?hash=item3db782e792:g:JcsAAOSw8~Zfs-ZR
Thank you, that is just what I was looking for! Couldn't find it when I searched myself.
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What is going on with your frame? This seems a bit long to wait???
At 8 months and counting I'm the proud record holder.
A series of bad luck and mistakes.
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On the upside, you now have all the knowledge on just about everything to look for on this frame (not too much IMO) when you get it so it should be trouble-free for quite a while for you. ;D
Coincidentally, I did the first ride on mine just over 8 months ago. Have a 1000 miles on it so far (ride 3 other bikes as well) and the only issue I've really encountered was that lower pivot pin being about 2-3mm over spec. I has some pretty rough miles on it and still looks like new - some of the other parts not so much.
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Looking for a shock. Any reason this wouldn't work?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fox-Rear-Shock-Float-DPS-165-x-42-5-Performance-Elite-Trunnion-C57Q-Giant-Anthem/265071814546?hash=item3db782e792:g:JcsAAOSw8~Zfs-ZR
I have that exact shock, same code C57Q. Came from Aliexpress, brand new. Works very well in my LCFS958. I removed the alu washer to get 45 mm stroke.
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Hi,
my fm936 SL M, with RS Revelation RC SA 130mm , RS Sidluxe Ultimate 165*42.5, SLX, BrandX Ascent 150mm, wtb st light i25+bontrager xr3 2.40+2.20, carbon matte+dyedbro. Weight 12.6kg.
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Hi,
my fm936 SL M, with RS Revelation RC SA 130mm , RS Sidluxe Ultimate 165*42.5, SLX, BrandX Ascent 150mm, wtb st light i25+bontrager xr3 2.40+2.20, carbon matte+dyedbro. Weight 12.6kg.
Nice work! Where did you get those stickers?
Or are those some sort of protection?
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Nice work! Where did you get those stickers?
Or are those some sort of protection?
https://www.dyedbro.com/collections/frame-protection they have huge collection. Raw carbon is not ideal though, better sticks on some paint...
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On the upside, you now have all the knowledge on just about everything to look for on this frame...
Absolutely :D, I'll measure the lower pivot as soon as I get it, and my 42.5 shock is waiting, confident it will fit perfectly.
-
Standard frame, size M
Complete GX eagle drivetrain
with alu crank with garbuk 34T.
Fork: RS Sid select 120
Shock: sidluxe ultimate 165x42.5
Brakes: SLX 7100
Rotors: Kncn Razor 160/180
Bar: Newultimate evo flat bar 700mm
Stem: Ritchey trail 45mm
Seatpost: Reverse carbon
Seat: Fizik tundra m2
Pedals: XTR
Tires: Schwalbe racing Ralph/Ray 2.25
Wheels: some cheap no name 1550g
Hi, how tall are you?
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Hi, how tall are you?
I am 173cm and after a few rides I am confident that M and 45mm is right for me!
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I am 173cm and after a few rides I am confident that M and 45mm is right for me!
Thanks man!
I'm 170cm and wondering what to get, but I was leaning towards the S size with a "normal" stem to have it more racy
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On the upside, you now have all the knowledge on just about everything to look for on this frame (not too much IMO) when you get it so it should be trouble-free for quite a while for you. ;D
Coincidentally, I did the first ride on mine just over 8 months ago. Have a 1000 miles on it so far (ride 3 other bikes as well) and the only issue I've really encountered was that lower pivot pin being about 2-3mm over spec. I has some pretty rough miles on it and still looks like new - some of the other parts not so much.
Agreed. I don't want to jinx it, but I am actually impressed with this frame. 10 months of hard riding on it and aside from the out-of-spec linkage (replacement sent by Carbonda) this thing is robust.
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I don't know if this has already been asked but the tread +100 pages and I can't find it so please bear with me.
Is it possible to fit a "normal" (as in none trunnion) 165mm shock upside down (of course with the required spacers/adapter) in order to easily reach the lockout/adjuster?
Or would it hit the linkage?
Seems like a simple enough solution if you can't/don't want to run a remote lockout on the handlebar. If it fit that is...
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I don't know if this has already been asked but the tread +100 pages and I can't find it so please bear with me.
Is it possible to fit a "normal" (as in none trunnion) 165mm shock upside down (of course with the required spacers/adapter) in order to easily reach the lockout/adjuster?
Or would it hit the linkage?
Seems like a simple enough solution if you can't/don't want to run a remote lockout on the handlebar. If it fit that is...
Check this: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg24602.html#msg24602
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The 165 shock discussion, is just a bit earlier in the thread ;)
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg24517.html#msg24517
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Thanks man!
I'm 170cm and wondering what to get, but I was leaning towards the S size with a "normal" stem to have it more racy
for 170cm for sure M with short stem...
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Frame SL version size M
10.55kg on photo...
No... I'm not jealous ;)
What did you use to protect the chainstay ? A bar tape ?
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The 165 shock discussion, is just a bit earlier in the thread ;)
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg24517.html#msg24517
I think I messed up my question because no one seemed to understand what I meant.
I have seen people fit "normal" shocks in this fram instead of trunnion ones but my question was whether or not you could flip a "normal" shock so the big end with all the adjusters and lock out lever end up at the top? I have only seen pics of "normal" shocks mounted with the big end att the bottom ner the BB, like the trunnion ones mount.
(https://images.internetstores.de/products/404738/01/a1f9df/rockshox-monarch-rl-165-x-38mm-430-lf-tune-mid-mid-2.jpg?forceSize=true&forceAspectRatio=true&useTrim=true&size=613x613)
VS.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0349/7357/products/RS1716_x1024.jpg?v=1595390867)
The only reason for doing this would be for easier reach of the adjuster/lock out when your on the bike but it wouldn't be possible to do with a trunnion shock.
Hopefully this made it clearer?
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I think I have size anxiety... ::)
I'm about to pull the trigger on a frame and after having read through a bunch of comments in this tread I was set on a size M.
But then I ran across this:
(https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-h4smy34w/product_images/uploaded_images/ns-bike-size-chart-and-size-guide.jpg)
https://www.mtbmonster.com/ns-bikes-size-guide/ (https://www.mtbmonster.com/ns-bikes-size-guide/)
(I can't find any size recommendations on NS site but maybe I'm not looking in the right place?)
According to this chart I'm dead square in the "L"-camp...
I'm 178cm with a ~84cm inseam and have historically always been between size M and L.
One of the general tips I read is "compare it to you old bike and go with that", the problem with that is I haven't ridden MTB in donkeys years and my old bike is a 26" with V-brakes... (it's not even that it's low spec. (XT/XTR/CrossMax) it's just that old...) That bike is a size L (19").
Help anyone?
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I think I have size anxiety... ::)
I'm about to pull the trigger on a frame and after having read through a bunch of comments in this tread I was set on a size M.
But then I ran across this:
(I can't find any size recommendations on NS site but maybe I'm not looking in the right place?)
According to this chart I'm dead square in the "L"-camp...
I'm 178cm with a ~84cm inseam and have historically always been between size M and L.
One of the general tips I read is "compare it to you old bike and go with that", the problem with that is I haven't ridden MTB in donkeys years and my old bike is a 26" with V-brakes... (it's not even that it's low spec. (XT/XTR/CrossMax) it's just that old...) That bike is a size L (19").
Help anyone?
I don't know how accurate that chart is. According to that, im 185cm. I would be XL. I have long arms & legs, im 100% certain L is better than XL for me. I'm running a 60cm stem FYI. I can't tell you one is best for you sorry :(
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I think I have size anxiety... ::)
...
I'm 178cm with a ~84cm inseam and have historically always been between size M and L.
...
I'm 178 with 89cm inseam and took a M.
I tried, briefly though, the one of my friend and it felt just right with a flat bar, no offset seatpost and a 50mm stem.
An L for you?
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Frame SL version size M
10.55kg on photo.
Wheels btlos i30as on ztto m1 hubs.
(https://images91.fotosik.pl/479/5e4881ab6e6c702c.jpg)
(https://images92.fotosik.pl/480/78321e1f7f7e9eba.jpg)
how is that fox rear shock working out? i have been considering one of those also.
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The only reason for doing this would be for easier reach of the adjuster/lock out when your on the bike but it wouldn't be possible to do with a trunnion shock.
Hopefully this made it clearer?
I think you can do it without any problem. For standard 165x38 shocks direction doesn't matter. I fitted my same way as trunion only because of lockout direction.
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The 42.5mm shock works well, it seems to give more than 100mm but as far as I know we don't know exactly how much travel but probably 110-120mm. It feels natural with this stroke size so no worries there.
The bike is being raced a national level (https://www.facebook.com/patxiciafanpage) and was even in the recent XCO world champs so it's clearly capable. I'm going to be riding it with 120mm in the National Points Series (hopefully) here in Ireland and I'm going to be keeping the 120mm Sid Select rather than 100mm due to the terrain here. I wouldn't worry about the head angle, people said the same every time it gets slacker - You don't go slower ;D Where are you racing and what's the terrain like?
There is an easy method to work out wheel travel... it is the leverage ratio x the shock travel = wheel travel so to find the leverage ratio we do know that on the specs we have wheel travel is 100mm and shock travel is (165 x)40 so leverage ratio will be 100/40=2.5 so for 42.5 shock travel it will be 42.5x2.5=106.25 - not even 110 unless you can somehow fettle a 45mm stroke shock on there which will give you 112.5
I was hoping to get 120mm travel out of this frame but looks like I'll have to go with either the LCFS937/958 (cracking issues resolved?) or the FM1001 and forgo the flexstay kinematics...
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There is an easy method to work out wheel travel... it is the leverage ratio x the shock travel = wheel travel so to find the leverage ratio we do know that on the specs we have wheel travel is 100mm and shock travel is (165 x)40 so leverage ratio will be 100/40=2.5 so for 42.5 shock travel it will be 42.5x2.5=106.25 - not even 110 unless you can somehow fettle a 45mm stroke shock on there which will give you 112.5
I was hoping to get 120mm travel out of this frame but looks like I'll have to go with either the LCFS937/958 (cracking issues resolved?) or the FM1001 and forgo the flexstay kinematics...
I measured mine at about 118 mm of travel with a 42.5. Could have pushed a little more and probably gotten to 120 pretty easily.
NS list travel at 100 mm with a 37.5 and 120 with a 42.5. Based on my measurements, I see no reason to doubt them. I haven't tested a 37.5 or a 40, but I suspect the 37.5 would give you slightly more than 100 mm of travel.
Frame was mounted level, shock degassed, wheels off and a jack under the rear axle. Didn't push much beyond shock travel to get the 118 mm.
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Was shipped on the 3rd and arrived at the 5th - impressive Job - THANKS Adam ;)
Almost done by now - just some fidling with the cables and installing the shock bushings once they arrive ... >:(
Never was thought to be a light weight so YES I am sure happy with the outcome - the rest will be done in the "shut up and ride" mode 8)
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I measured mine at about 118 mm of travel with a 42.5. Could have pushed a little more and probably gotten to 120 pretty easily.
NS list travel at 100 mm with a 37.5 and 120 with a 42.5. Based on my measurements, I see no reason to doubt them. I haven't tested a 37.5 or a 40, but I suspect the 37.5 would give you slightly more than 100 mm of travel.
Frame was mounted level, shock degassed, wheels off and a jack under the rear axle. Didn't push much beyond shock travel to get the 118 mm.
NS has different rear triangle and schock link = different suspension characteristics then fm936
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There is an easy method to work out wheel travel... it is the leverage ratio x the shock travel = wheel travel so to find the leverage ratio we do know that on the specs we have wheel travel is 100mm and shock travel is (165 x)40 so leverage ratio will be 100/40=2.5 so for 42.5 shock travel it will be 42.5x2.5=106.25 - not even 110 unless you can somehow fettle a 45mm stroke shock on there which will give you 112.5
I was hoping to get 120mm travel out of this frame but looks like I'll have to go with either the LCFS937/958 (cracking issues resolved?) or the FM1001 and forgo the flexstay kinematics...
Do those kinematic equations account for the travel due to the flex stays? I could imagine that the flex in the stays might account for some of the difference - maybe 5 - 10 mm?
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Hi Everyone,
I've been reading the posts on the Carbonda frame for a long time now... I have now finally had the first few rides on my bike. It took just about 6 months to get the frame from ordering it back in September.
The build is full Shimano XT, Rock Shox SID ultimate 100mm, Rock Shox SID Luxe 165X40, Rims and handlebar are Carbon from Carbonda, PRO Koryak 150mm dropper post, Ergon Saddle, Alu stem. The build came out to 11.4Kg.
Please check out my Shimano SPD M737 pedals from the early 1990s. It was such a great day when I received these pedals all those years ago not having to run clips any more. I have been running them on and off on bikes since than and they are really holding up well. When I couldn't source the pedals I wanted for this bike I decided to mount them and they make my day!
Compared to my prior hardtail bike it is a really long, big bike but it rides extremely well. It feels light and nimble, it turns in really quick in the tricky stuff and climbs better than most bikes I have ridden.
I'm really happy with how the build turned out and how it rides! Keep up the good work sharing your thoughts and builds and thanks for all the inspiration!
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Anybody in contact with Adam lately? I contacted him after Chinese New year, but no reply so far....
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Very responsive on skype.
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also on Skype no reaction. Apparently they don't want to sell me a frame. Maybe no shipping to EU anymore. I'll go elsewhere.
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When i contact carbonda or the flybike-asia mail a person named Wing answered me few days later
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also on Skype no reaction. Apparently they don't want to sell me a frame. Maybe no shipping to EU anymore. I'll go elsewhere.
They answer, they ship to Europe.
It is not your usual shop you enter in, buy and get out with the product.
Some patience is sometimes required.
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They answer, they ship to Europe.
It is not your usual shop you enter in, buy and get out with the product.
Some patience is sometimes required.
Thanks for your reaction. I know the drill. Ordered before and was in contact about fm936 since late january. I patiently waited the Chinese newyear.
Now more than 3 weeks and 3 emails after CN, while reading mainly about fast feedback here, I m beginning to assume there is another reason.
Vitus sells same frame now as stated here before. Maybe has something to do with that. Maybe somebody else can conform An succeded order that was made after CN to western europe country...
Anyway I'm checking my other options at the moment so I'll hopefully be up and running before the season
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Thanks for your reaction. I know the drill. Ordered before and was in contact about fm936 since late january. I patiently waited the Chinese newyear.
Now more than 3 weeks and 3 emails after CN, while reading mainly about fast feedback here, I m beginning to assume there is another reason.
Vitus sells same frame now as stated here before. Maybe has something to do with that. Maybe somebody else can conform An succeded order that was made after CN to western europe country...
Anyway I'm checking my other options at the moment so I'll hopefully be up and running before the season
Not remembering when I exactly confirmed, but I have some other FM936 frames on order.
I wouldn't speculate too much... yet :D
Did you check the FM909 ?
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3106.msg24741.html
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I have a joke !
After fighting hard to have a BSA BB, I'll get a BB92( they sent the wrong frame to painting ).
My bet, someone will get a BSA instead of BB92 soon!
And the painting is not exactly what I asked. Partly due to my imprecision.
But it look nice.
I dropped the fight... they ship the damn box on Monday, about 9 months after ordering.
See, I practice what I said just earlier: some patience maybe required.
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The worst part is probably knowing the damn thing would have been on your doorstop 6 months ago if you'd just accepted a BB92 from the get-go. Dang!
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I have a joke !
After fighting hard to have a BSA BB, I'll get a BB92( they sent the wrong frame to painting ).
My bet, someone will get a BSA instead of BB92 soon!
And the painting is not exactly what I asked. Partly due to my imprecision.
But it look nice.
I dropped the fight... they ship the damn box on Monday, about 9 months after ordering.
See, I practice what I said just earlier: some patience maybe required.
WoW! hopefully you will receive it soon now. and paint is better in real. thanks for sharing your thoughts.
While writing the message I just received a message from Adam on skype:):)
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Not remembering when I exactly confirmed, but I have some other FM936 frames on order.
I wouldn't speculate too much... yet :D
Did you check the FM909 ?
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3106.msg24741.html
Yeah I think I noticed the FM909 the first here on the thread. I'm just not a big fan of this shock mount. and find it little too expensive.
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Anybody in contact with Adam lately? I contacted him after Chinese New year, but no reply so far....
I had requested a quote through Carbonda's site late last month. My contact/seller was not Adam but Maria.
Emailed back and forth for two weeks and always received a prompt reply. Last week completed the order Normal with BSA BB, size M, candy red and gray decals.
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The worst part is probably knowing the damn thing would have been on your doorstop 6 months ago if you'd just accepted a BB92 from the get-go. Dang!
It will be good for the bearings experience.
My two friends got a BSA frame.
We'll ride in the same mud with our DUB spindles.
If there's a difference it'll be quick to show up.
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Here is my build..First bike build ever... easier after i got all the parts / tools, but still took much longer than expected ( Fork and dropper post took 5 months to come due to backorder ). Just need to reduce size of cables / cut steerer tube )and having some issues with the derailleur goes to 11-12 gears..
10.5 kg.. total weight, cost about $4K
I am just compiling the parts list.. will post the link. Thanks for all the folks who helped.. several of you went over and above to help me put the bike together..
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Looks great. Really like the color.
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Here is my build
Nice!
I'm curious to see your parts list. So i can figure out what makes mine that much heavier (11,5 kg) ;).
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Nice!
I'm curious to see your parts list. So i can figure out what makes mine that much heavier (11,5 kg) ;).
It's likely gonna be a lot of slightly lighter parts that all add up to that bigger difference. Some areas are cheaper to lighten than others, but overall it can get spendy.
My FM936 is now up to 10.1kg ready to ride with 120mm fork, power meter, 125mm dropper, pedals, cage, wireless speed sensor, computer mount.
It was 9.7kg with the 100mm fork, no power meter and some lighter bars
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Looks great. Really like the color.
I was thinking the same. I love the blue fading to black.
yeah... it gets depressing how long it takes to get parts now.
@zorinena, I think the Barzo should be in front and the Mezcal in the back.
You need a more grippy front, and a more rolling rear.
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It's likely gonna be a lot of slightly lighter parts that all add up to that bigger difference. Some areas are cheaper to lighten than others, but overall it can get spendy.
My FM936 is now up to 10.1kg ready to ride with 120mm fork, power meter, 125mm dropper, pedals, cage, wireless speed sensor, computer mount.
It was 9.7kg with the 100mm fork, no power meter and some lighter bars
This interests me greatly (weight). I would be very happy to hit 10kg or less with a dropper. I current ride a ~9.3 kg hardtail and have become a big fan of ultra light bikes.
I'm glad to see it can be done with this frame. I'm still waiting for component supply chain issues to resolve and if I want the FM936 or FM909 before I start my build. It's not going to be cheap... ;D
I'll be looking at your posts carefully.
How are you liking it so far?
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Hi All,
Anyone know if there exists a ShadowPlus/directmount hanger thats fits this frame?
I'm running shimano gears, and in theory a shadow plus hanger sounds like a good idea and i'm curios to try it out.
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This interests me greatly (weight). I would be very happy to hit 10kg or less with a dropper. I current ride a ~9.3 kg hardtail and have become a big fan of ultra light bikes.
I'm glad to see it can be done with this frame. I'm still waiting for component supply chain issues to resolve and if I want the FM936 or FM909 before I start my build. It's not going to be cheap... ;D
I'll be looking at your posts carefully.
How are you liking it so far?
It is hard and expensive to hit 9,7kg for 120mm with dropper but possible.
Some parts can still be optimised (saddle, dropper, derailleur, handlebar, expander... 9,5kg might be possible. Even less with Trickstuff brakes)
(https://i.ibb.co/37yndkN/Sans-titre.png)
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Hi everyone!
Thank you for all the great info I've got from here regarding this frame.
Yesterday I received my own and ordered it without paint.
It was delivered matt black like many else here.
I did this because the paint delivered by Carbonda seems to be quite bad according to some here.
I'm going to leave the frame to one of my frieds how is a professional Auto painter and the question is if we can use normal 2-k paint or shall there be any special paint?
How has people here done it?
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Normal 2k paint is fine. The important bit is going to be using the right primer. Something that's good for the epoxy in the carbon but other than that you should be fine. If your buddy does automotive stuff then he should have some access to an appropriate carbon primer and then be good to go beyond that.
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Was just over at Ican Bikes looking at their S24/FM909 and see that they have a new 2021 frame S3 which looks like the front of the FM936 with the rear of the FM1001... geo chart is identical to FM936 and shock travel of 100mm with 165*40 shock - weighs slightly more due to chainstay pivots (true 4-bar Horst link) and beefed up seat stays due to not being flex stays. Available as a complete bike (with carbon wheels) as well as bare frame.
https://icancycling.com/blogs/articles/full-suspension-xc-bike
https://icancycling.com/collections/mtb-frame/products/xc-full-suspension-mtb-bike-frame-s3
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Frame is painted and shipping soon!
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Great color.
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Pulled the trigger,...
Fm936, L, superlight, boring black is on its way. So looking forward to this.
It was annoying as I wanted an FM916 as well but they had no inventory and it would've reduced the shipping costs as to ship 2 frames is not much more cost.
...now to stock pile parts.
Shame the sidluxe is not available in a lockout version.
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Besides the good old fashion old tube, what is everyone using for chainstay and downtime/bb protection?
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Besides the good old fashion old tube, what is everyone using for chainstay and downtime/bb protection?
I put the VHS Huck Norris on my chain stay, https://vhsmtb.com/products/vhs-2-0-slapper-tape . Looks like they don't call it Huck Norris anymore, but it's the same and works great.
On my downtubes, I've always used "keel guard". I use it on the bottom of my kayaks, so always have some around. I order mine from Amazon. It's sticks well and is very durable.
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2 records in one !
I waited 9+ months to get my frame.
But 5 days only for the shipping !! :o
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Has anyone had issues with getting in touch or getting replies from Carbonda? I had an email discussion going with Adam, but I haven't heard from him in over a week now. I sent some follow-up emails to check, and tried sending the question via the contact form on the website, but still nothing. Was hoping to get an order going as soon as possible.
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2 records in one !
I waited 9+ months to get my frame.
But 5 days only for the shipping !! :o
They first send the rear axle only. That's why it is very quick ;D :o
(joking)
Hope you'll be happy with it !!
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Thoughts on Reba or Revelation?
I'll be installing a 165x38 Monarch until I can afford a trunnion shock because I already have it.
I have a non boost Reba @100mm so would be buying a 120mm air shaft - it weighs 1240g
I have a boost Revelation @130mm so would be buying a 120mm air shaft - it weighs 1740g
So what would be the preference, and would a half kilo weight penalty on the Rev rule it out straight up?
Has anyone ran 130mm on this frame?
Ben
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I absolutely doubt the weight of your Reba, that would be even lighter than a Sid. It should also be somewhere in the 1600-1700g range.
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I absolutely doubt the weight of your Reba, that would be even lighter than a Sid. It should also be somewhere in the 1600-1700g range.
Entirely possible, but I threw them both on a scale before making the post. Just a basic kitchen scale though....
Edit, put on scale again,
Rev at 1749
Reba at 1565 now.... I took it off and put it on a few times and it was within a couple of that each time... So less than 200g, I'm pretty much on the Rev then, should be a stiffer chassis.
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They first send the rear axle only. That's why it is very quick ;D :o
(joking)
Hope you'll be happy with it !!
There were two frames in the box, with two axles ;)
Brakes need a bleed...
Waiting for a stupid ring to put on the XDR freehub for the XD cassette.
And some tires.
And I'm done :D
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How is everyone getting with the Sidluxe out back? As it is currently not possible to get the remote lock out version any feedback using the lock out on the shock (obviously annoying having to reach down)
Or is it a good platform to start with set up firm?
Cheers
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Thoughts on Reba or Revelation?
I'll be installing a 165x38 Monarch until I can afford a trunnion shock because I already have it.
I have a non boost Reba @100mm so would be buying a 120mm air shaft - it weighs 1240g
I have a boost Revelation @130mm so would be buying a 120mm air shaft - it weighs 1740g
So what would be the preference, and would a half kilo weight penalty on the Rev rule it out straight up?
Has anyone ran 130mm on this frame?
Ben
I ride a 120mm reba but would love a stronger fork. 120 or 130 in general there is no difference
(photo of a bike on a reba 120)
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yes, I was lucky to buy a frame from a defective lot. The cracks around the top link started back in December, just a month after the purchase. I recently received a new front triangle.
Carbonda's warranty support is one of the best, many thanks to them.
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yes, I was lucky to buy a frame from a defective lot. The cracks around the top link started back in December, just a month after the purchase. I recently received a new front triangle.
Carbonda's warranty support is one of the best, many thanks to them.
defective lot? how to identify the lot?
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ATTENTION! SCAMMER/FRAUD ALERT
Don't fall for anyone trying to sell you carbonda stuff for a low price over WhatsApp and with suspicious payment methods. Just got word from Wing.
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3106.msg26452.html#msg26452
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yes, I was lucky to buy a frame from a defective lot. The cracks around the top link started back in December, just a month after the purchase. I recently received a new front triangle.
Carbonda's warranty support is one of the best, many thanks to them.
Ah no! When did you order the frame/delivery? worried i'm in the same batch! :o
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Ah no! When did you order the frame/delivery? worried i'm in the same batch! :o
Invoice Date. 07.10.2020
I continue to ride on the old frame, it feels all right with it, I'm waiting for it to break completely :)
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Invoice Date. 07.10.2020
I continue to ride on the old frame, it feels all right with it, I'm waiting for it to break completely :)
Thanks! I remember the photo you put! Almost looks like a paint crack, did you confirm it was a carbon crack? - either way its good to hear carbonda warranty. - Honestly name brands are almost worse to deal with.
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Thanks! I remember the photo you put! Almost looks like a paint crack, did you confirm it was a carbon crack? - either way its good to hear carbonda warranty. - Honestly name brands are almost worse to deal with.
I just showed the photo of the crack to Adam and he replied that he would send a new front triangle. Apparently before me there were already the same appeals and they already knew about the problem of marriage
I cleaned the crack from the varnish, but I could not understand the crack of the varnish or carbon fiber
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Thoughts on Reba or Revelation?
Revelation, no doubt.
Reba lacks stiffness and you might run this bike into heavier terrain than what the Reba is made for.
Plus, 32 mm stanchions look pretty lost in this large frame.
Depending on what you want to make out of this frame (Trailbike or XC-Bike), i think you can use it in 130 mm.
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Revelation, no doubt.
Reba lacks stiffness and you might run this bike into heavier terrain than what the Reba is made for.
Plus, 32 mm stanchions look pretty lost in this large frame.
Thanks, the revelation I have is the older 32mm one anyway.
Ben
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Anyone here with this frame north of 200lbs? I'm 6'4" 210lbs and currently debating between the fm936 or the fm909 (size XL) for my next build. Just curious as to how they hold up with a 210lbs rider
I am also now looking at the Ican S3 as it appears to be like the fm936 with just a non flex stay rear triangle. I have never ridden a flex stay frame and not 100% sure how they do for someone my size.
Any advice is greatly appreciated! The goal is to build a 26-28lbs 120/100mm 29" speed machine.
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Anyone here with this frame north of 200lbs? I'm 6'4" 210lbs and currently debating between the fm936 or the fm909 (size XL) for my next build. Just curious as to how they hold up with a 210lbs rider
I am also now looking at the Ican S3 as it appears to be like the fm936 with just a non flex stay rear triangle. I have never ridden a flex stay frame and not 100% sure how they do for someone my size.
Any advice is greatly appreciated! The goal is to build a 26-28lbs 120/100mm 29" speed machine.
I'm 6'1" and about 205 on a large. My build is a 24.5 pound 120/115ish. I've been riding it for about 3 months and have no complaints. I ride it thru some rowdy roots and rocks and it's a blast.
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Can someone advise,
Headset 42/52 internal?
Rear axle what size fits?
Thanks in advance
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Ready to get this build started.
Made up of both new and used parts. Will probably upgrade the fork at some point.
Painted Regular Weight FM936 Frame (Stock headset and Axle)
Velocity Blunt SS Wheels
RockShox Reba 100mm
Fox Float DPS 165x42.5
M8000 11 speed Groupset
M7100 SLX Brakes
Ashima 180mm Rotors
Fovno Phantom Crankset and BB
Wren Carbon Bars 750mm
Uno 35mm Stem
KS 125mm Dropper
Aliexpress Carbon Seat
Vittoria Barzo and Mezcal, both 2.35
ESI Chunky Grips
A bit of a budget build but it should tackle everything here in Michigan just fine.
Wrapped most of the frame last night in 3M, have just two chainstays left (ran out of 3m)
Should have it wrapped up over the weekend. Super excited!
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Nice colour.
Painting by Carbonda?
Which colour is it?
Thanks
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Wow. I really like that color!
I had a hard time deciding between red and green. Once i saw my red frame, i fell in love... but your frame color makes me think about it again...
Nevermind, i love my bike and yours will also be adorable.
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Nice colour.
Painting by Carbonda?
Which colour is it?
Thanks
Chameleon green I think. I looks woooow, beautiful.
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Dear All,
I´m looking for to contact with Adam. By email....looks difficult. I had been in contact but.....he disappear.
I have seem that Flybike has similar frames than Carbonda.
Is there any othor method to contact with them appart of email?
I will appreciate if someone can help me. Best Regards.
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Dear All,
I´m looking for to contact with Adam. By email....looks difficult. I had been in contact but.....he disappear.
I have seem that Flybike has similar frames than Carbonda.
Is there any othor method to contact with them appart of email?
I will appreciate if someone can help me. Best Regards.
Try to contact Wing at sales1[at]carbonda.com
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Dear All,
I´m looking for to contact with Adam. By email....looks difficult. I had been in contact but.....he disappear.
I have seem that Flybike has similar frames than Carbonda.
Is there any othor method to contact with them appart of email?
I will appreciate if someone can help me. Best Regards.
FB is for OEMs, won't sell to you. Carbonda is the retail channel.
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Build is done. Ignore the derailleur cable. I have it trimmed now ;) The color is based of the gloss/metallic green of the revel ranger. I sent adam a picture of that bike and they ran with it. Looks amazing in person.
Bike is 25.5 lbs with my old pedals. A nicer cassette and pedals should get it down to about 25.
Will be taking it on it's first real ride tomorrow. Pumped!
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Any 182cm/6' folks on large frames, what size dropper have you installed?
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Any 182cm/6' folks on large frames, what size dropper have you installed?
Can't tell because I'm on a medium frame...but the answer is quitte simpele: the biggest which you can fit in your frame!
Oneup has the one's with the smallest inbuild height and can be adjusted.
The cheapest are from x brand/tranzx, which I use without issues for 1.5 years now.
Good luck
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Measure your current bike's distance from BB center to saddle rail and subtract the frame's seat tube length (i.e. 490 mm in size L). That gives the maximum inbuild length for your seat post. Depending on what seat post you chose, minimum inbuild length is about 35-60 mm (stack height) longer than it's travel.
Allow your calculations a few millimeters of clearance ;)
For example, my calculation was:
- former bike had 747 mm from BB center to saddle rail
- minus 540 mm seat tube in size XL gives a maximum of 207 mm seat post inbuild length
- minus 50 mm stack height (LEV integra) gives max. 157 mm of travel
- so i chose 150 mm travel and have about 7 mm of clearance below the seat post collar.
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Any 182cm/6' folks on large frames, what size dropper have you installed?
184 cm running a 150 that is sitting on the collar.
(https://i.imgur.com/O8y12sem.jpg)
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About the same for me. 184cm large frame 150mm PRO koryak dropper about 1cm margin.
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Finally finished my build. Size M, SL. BTLOS i30, DTswiss350, XT cassette and shifter, SLX brakes and derailleur, e*thriteen crankset, Fox elite shock (Giant Anthem 2017 model from ebay), SID Ultimate 120mm, 150mm OneUpV2 dropper. Rekon F2.5 R2.4. 25.8lbs w pedals.
Absolutely love this bike. Was looking for one bike that I could use on trail rides and also race in local XC events. It ticks all the boxes. After a few tune up rides I took it out for a hot lap yesterday on my usual 11mi loop. To compare I'm coming off a 2017 Giant Trance w 160mm Lyric fork, and sometime ride an old but fast Schwinn Homegrown 26er hard tail. I was within 5% of my best times on the gnarly downhill sections, and PR'd pretty much every flat or climb section. I even cleared a huge techy hill that I've never done before. I couldn't believe how much faster I was on this bike. Especially this early in the season. It is about 10lbs lighter than my trance, so that's got to be part of it, but I never felt under-gunned on the downhills. The geo and the 120mm SID felt almost as solid as the 160mm Lyric on my Trance. I definitely bottomed out in placed where I usually don't, but tokens will fix that.
In all, zero regrets with this bike. Thanks to everyone for sharing your builds and info. Made the process so much easier for me.
(https://i.imgur.com/ChYvM0W.png)
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About the same for me. 184cm large frame 150mm PRO koryak dropper about 1cm margin.
A lot of the reviews on the Pro dropper complain about the saddle mount, would you agree that it isn't great? It'll be between this dropper and the oneup I think
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Yeah the seat mount on the PRO dropper is a bit weird but once I had the saddle mounted and tuned it’s been solid. So for me it’s not really a show stopper. Haven’t tried the oneup so I can’t compare the two but I think the PRO one works well and is a good deal including the lever, cable and all.
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Here is my bling build !
The weather isn't very nice here, so only two ~70km rides so far.
But I loved every instant of them, a smile from one ear to the other, even once when I crashed it :o
Not sure if it is the geometry, the full suspension, the seatpost or the electronic shifting in particular, but this has little in common with my past hardtail riding.
It is a size M SL.
OG-Evkin bar
Ligthbicyle XC925 wheelset with DT-Swiss EXP 240.
XX1 AXS derailleur + Blipbox + Multiclics
SID Ultimate 120mm and SIDLuxe shock 42.5mm
Piccola brakes
Reverb AXS
2.35 tires.
And 10,1kg
The commands are, left click easier gear, right click harder gear.
Click on both for the seatpost.
I was hoping for a more greenish blue, than this reddish one, but I start to get used to it ::)
I'm still testing different 3D printed mounts for the blips for different positions.
For now the cables are taped below the bar, my plan was to make them go through the bar end and exit through one of the mount holes.
But there was some sun, and I preferred to go ride than work more on it. Maybe later.
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Looks so trick! How do you like the OG-EVKIN bar? :)
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@carbonazza More info on the paint please?
Blue color, fade to black, to clear coat?
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Looks so trick! How do you like the OG-EVKIN bar? :)
The look impresses around me for sure.
Was too wide at 800mm. I did cut 20mm on each side.
The angles feels good to me.
I'll see on a long distance ride how it fits.
@carbonazza More info on the paint please?
Blue color, fade to black, to clear coat?
It is the same pattern as the picture attached.
But with transparent blue instead of orange( you can see the carbon weaves through it ).
Then a black belt ( not really what I asked, but ok ).
Then clear coat ( I asked for ceramic, not sure I got it :D )
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Here is my bling build !
Thank you for this post! You have built basically the exact spec that I am planning to build. The only difference I'm considering at this moment is to use the FM 909 frame. But if I go with the FM 936, my bike will be identical to yours except for color, blipbox, saddle. Maybe tires too of course. I was very hopeful to stay well under 10.5 kg, and you've just shown me that this can be done. And even with some nice goodies like AXS and a power meter.
I am coming from a hard tail that I have been riding for 7 years now. So moving to a full suspension with modern geometry is going to be mind-blowing.
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Thank you for this post! You have built basically the exact spec that I am planning to build. The only difference I'm considering at this moment is to use the FM 909 frame. But if I go with the FM 936, my bike will be identical to yours except for color, blipbox, saddle. Maybe tires too of course. I was very hopeful to stay well under 10.5 kg, and you've just shown me that this can be done. And even with some nice goodies like AXS and a power meter.
I am coming from a hard tail that I have been riding for 7 years now. So moving to a full suspension with modern geometry is going to be mind-blowing.
What ?!? You don't like my saddle ? It is very comfy you know ;)
Coming from the same hardtail years as me. Mind-blown you'll be for sure !
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What ?!? You don't like my saddle ? It is very comfy you know ;)
Coming from the same hardtail years as me. Mind-blown you'll be for sure !
This is my saddle of choice:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPyYPrD
However, the recent ones I've received seem to have been made cheaper and are more prone to cracking in crashes or after prolonged riding. It's a shame because the original version was excellent. At least for me. Several century rides without issue.
I recently switched to this one and have been impressed:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOQO5HN
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https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPyYPrD
I tried the plastic one, long time ago, but it did break very fast.
A pity they don't do them with a stronger material.
Maybe the recent branded 3D printed ones offer the same comfort and resist better.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOQO5HN
I tried this one too, but it wasn't my shape.
All my bikes have this "piece of art" now:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKX9LWP
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I tried the plastic one, long time ago, but it did break very fast.
A pity they don't do them with a stronger material.
Maybe the recent branded 3D printed ones offer the same comfort and resist better.
I tried this one too, but it wasn't my shape.
All my bikes have this "piece of art" now:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKX9LWP
I couldn't remember who recommended this one but I tried it and WOW, was it painful.
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I couldn't remember who recommended this one but I tried it and WOW, was it painful.
My bet, it's me :o ... sorry.
I buy it. If you don't do anything with it, and can send it to a friend in Phoenix AZ(from Austin right?).
PM me.
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My Carbonda FM 936 project starts today.
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Cleaned after first ride (80 km / 1800 hm).
First impressions ;D ;D ;D
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What's the maximum rear travel you can get out of this frame?
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Cleaned after first ride (80 km / 1800 hm).
First impressions ;D ;D ;D
Looks awesome!
So you are happy with it then lol
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Are you all having a Torx 30 axle at the rear ?
This is hardly available on a multi-tool.
It kind of works with a Hex 6 but won't last...
Or maybe it is designed for something like this: https://soshanger.com/148x12x10-T30-Rear-axle-SCOTT ?
If someone changed their axle, could you share the reference ?
When removing the wheel, the derailleur hanger moves down although tightened.
And needs to be moved up to allow the axle to reach the nut through it.
Anyone noted this trouble ?
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My DIY Chainstay Protector.
Bouncy balls and Mastik Tape
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Hahahahha that's the most inventive thing i've seen for a while. Personally, I just get harribo and some glue and stick them on!! :P
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Are you all having a Torx 30 axle at the rear ?
This is hardly available on a multi-tool.
It kind of works with a Hex 6 but won't last...
Or maybe it is designed for something like this: https://soshanger.com/148x12x10-T30-Rear-axle-SCOTT ?
If someone changed their axle, could you share the reference ?
My frame came with a Hex 6 Axle. Definitely no Torx.
In case you need it, marking is: 180 mm M12 * P1.5 * L16.5
When removing the wheel, the derailleur hanger moves down although tightened.
And needs to be moved up to allow the axle to reach the nut through it.
Anyone noted this trouble ?
Nope, no movement on my derailleur hanger.
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Sizing Question
I am 179 CM (5'10.5") and fall right on the line for a M/L. What would you guys suggest? I am coming off a 1995 26' Proflex 855 size large- so zero experience with the modern GEO.
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Sizing Question
I am 179 CM (5'10.5") and fall right on the line for a M/L. What would you guys suggest? I am coming off a 1995 26' Proflex 855 size large- so zero experience with the modern GEO.
I'd suggest a medium. I'm 6'1" on a large and this bike runs long. I think you'll be fine with a medium. It will be a major change from your Proflex which was my dream bike back in 95.
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I'd suggest a medium. I'm 6'1" on a large and this bike runs long. I think you'll be fine with a medium. It will be a major change from your Proflex which was my dream bike back in 95.
Thanks! Haha it was my dream bike too, and still ride it. Bought it as a 1 season-used demo at SundayRiver in Maine. In 1997. I have recently sold all my Girvin Link forks and misc proflex stuff I have accumulated to fund this project. People are paying crazy money for the Crosslink forks!
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Sizing Question
I am 179 CM (5'10.5") and fall right on the line for a M/L. What would you guys suggest? I am coming off a 1995 26' Proflex 855 size large- so zero experience with the modern GEO.
I'm the same exact height and have always ridden larges. (I used to be more like 5'11.5", but apparently I've shrunk.)
Anyway, I went with a large with a short stem (45 mm) and wide bar (780 mm). A medium would have been too small for me. I find myself almost wanting a little longer stem or a setback post. Even though the reach is much longer, the slack head angle and steep seat angle actually makes the saddle-to-bar distance a little less than my 2015 CS-041 hardtail. That bike has old standard geometry.
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Sizing Question
I am 179 CM (5'10.5") and fall right on the line for a M/L. What would you guys suggest? I am coming off a 1995 26' Proflex 855 size large- so zero experience with the modern GEO.
Large
my height is 180 cm, I ride a big size, it fits perfectly, here is a photo of my carbonda
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My frame came with a Hex 6 Axle. Definitely no Torx.
In case you need it, marking is: 180 mm M12 * P1.5 * L16.5
Nope, no movement on my derailleur hanger.
Thanks for the info. Why on earth I've got a T30?
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Are you all having a Torx 30 axle at the rear ?
They sent me a T30 rear axle and a 6mm front for my 1056. I just asked for a replacement for the rear to be 6mm. Not very helpful for your situation, but it does seem like Carbonda is sending both options out.
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Need some guidance on the rear shock, please.
Looking to stay around 250ish and am having a hard time finding 165*42.5 shocks.
Fox Performance 165 x 42.5 Shock Trunnion Dps Float, does that fit? This frame needs trunnion mount right?
Any other suggestions? I was looking for the rs from the giant trance people were buying but the only rs options I can find are over 400 bucks.
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Yes, 165*40 (42.5) is not a very common size. While 250 $/€ also is not a large budget if you want a new one.
That Fox you mentioned will fit. Carbonda says that you need 165x40, but reading this thread you'll see many people using Fox 165x42.5 without problems.
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I read this thread all posts and I discovered that M size frame are roughly 1900g+ without rear axle and seat binder. But carbonda claim SL version is 1850g.
Who got SL M size with 1850g weight?
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My medium SL was right at 1855g w/o shock & shock hardware (no axle or seat clamp either).
Just a bit under 2100 grams with shock mounted up.
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I am also considering this fm936 and FM 909.
FM 936 frame are very reliable and this frame used by NS bikes , victus etc..
But FM 909 is 100 gram lighter.
I dont know which one to choose.
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I am also considering this fm936 and FM 909.
FM 936 frame are very reliable and this frame used by NS bikes , victus etc..
But FM 909 is 100 gram lighter.
I dont know which one to choose.
]
If you're only consideration is weight I think go with the FM936 - It's solid. You will vary more than 100g just in water weight, it's 100ml of water...
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Unless you are a XC marathon or xc pro, nobody is going to notice 100,200 or 300 grams difference when you're out bombing the trails.
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Carbonda reply me SL version is 820 usd. Is it the right price?
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One week ownership
450 Kilometer
6600 Meter altitude differnce
I love this "machine"
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Carbonda reply me SL version is 820 usd. Is it the right price?
Same price as last year, yes.
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Same price as last year, yes.
Shipping is the killer Vs 12/18months ago... But most shipping charges have gone up
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At winter found some cracks around link in front triangle. Carbonda claimed this as a warranty an said they send me new triangle in march. In march they said it delays to april. Now finally new triangle is ready, and they put me new recuirement - to cut off old triangle. At this moment I,m resting with shoulder injury. And I dont understand how I can dissasemble full suspension bike with inner cables with only one working hand. And I dont want to stay without rideable bike for recovery period, with easy rides. ( maybe shipping stucks for months). Carbonda do not accept my arguments. Earlier I was thinking about building trail bike on fm1002, may be now it's not a good idea...
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Here is photo
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Now they decide me to pay 500$ deposit, claiming to return it when new triangle arrives, and I cut off old cracked triangle. Wtf??? )
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It is common. I did break a frame from another builder, they wanted a picture of it cut too.
Maybe to insure you don't repair/repaint/resell it. Not sure why really.
In any case you can trust Carbonda, they will stick to what they say.
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I just don't want to stay without rideable bike for unknown period, what if shipping stucks for few month.
Who will by cracked and repaired only front triangle , and for what price, it's just stupid.
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Now they decide me to pay 500$ deposit, claiming to return it when new triangle arrives, and I cut off old cracked triangle. Wtf??? )
This is standard warranty procedure. Never seen any manufacturer handle it differently. They actually seem pretty flexible and you're not being reasonable.
I get your injured and can't disassemble your bike, so pay the deposit. Or use your good arm and a hack saw and cut the top tube or ask a friend for help.
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This is standard warranty procedure. Never seen any manufacturer handle it differently. They actually seem pretty flexible and you're not being reasonable.
I get your injured and can't disassemble your bike, so pay the deposit. Or use your good arm and a hack saw and cut the top tube or ask a friend for help.
Sounds like the way to? It's a really standard procedure, even bike shops have to do it with the brands like this :)
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Feed a buddy a few beers to get the front triangle apart? Pay a shop to disassemble it?
All normal warranty stuff here lol. To me it seems like Carbonda is trying to act like a legit bike brand more than anything.
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Are you expecting Carbonda to do the work of trading out the frame too? If you can swap the parts to the new frame, you can cut the old one.
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I don't expect anything from them. I just want ride my bike soon, if I cut off it now, it will be unrideable for unknown time.
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If you do not appreciate your time, you are immortal? I don't have endless time, and want to ride my bike as much as possible.
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Carbonda tries to cosplay some brend, at our country it calls " effective management" with negative color. For example, one guy cracks his alu SantaCruz, frames for replacement will not be available until end of summet, they said he can weld the cracks and enjoy riding before new frame will be available.
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I'm having a hard time understanding what your issue is. Here is your first post:
At winter found some cracks around link in front triangle. Carbonda claimed this as a warranty an said they send me new triangle in march. In march they said it delays to april. Now finally new triangle is ready, and they put me new recuirement - to cut off old triangle. At this moment I,m resting with shoulder injury. And I dont understand how I can dissasemble full suspension bike with inner cables with only one working hand. And I dont want to stay without rideable bike for recovery period, with easy rides. ( maybe shipping stucks for months). Carbonda do not accept my arguments. Earlier I was thinking about building trail bike on fm1002, may be now it's not a good idea...
You want to get a warranty replacement for your frame because it has cracks that made you feel uneasy enough about it that you contacted Carbonda. Carbonda responded that yes, appears to be an issue and should be replaced.
Then your complaint is that you are resting your shoulder and only have one good hand and can't disassemble the bike. Yet you will have to either way in order to swap the frame's front triangle.
Now they decide me to pay 500$ deposit, claiming to return it when new triangle arrives, and I cut off old cracked triangle. Wtf??? )
Carbonda offers a very standard compromise - give a deposit and they will send a replacement. When you get it swapped over, you will get your deposit back.
I don't expect anything from them. I just want ride my bike soon, if I cut off it now, it will be unrideable for unknown time.
Can you ride your bike right now, as is? I thought you were injured and the bike cracked enough that it is deemed a warranty replacement item, likely unsafe?
So you want to continue riding a cracked carbon framed bike, while injured, and then when the new front triangle arrives, disassemble and swap the parts over?
If so, pay the deposit. Not an uncommon practice or unreasonable thing for a company to request.
But why do you want to ride a broken bike that you were concerned enough that you asked the company for a replacement?
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Looks like chipped paint to me???
You should see the cracks in the clearcoat on my Turner Czar. :D
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I'm having a hard time understanding what your issue is. Here is your first post:
You want to get a warranty replacement for your frame because it has cracks that made you feel uneasy enough about it that you contacted Carbonda. Carbonda responded that yes, appears to be an issue and should be replaced.
Then your complaint is that you are resting your shoulder and only have one good hand and can't disassemble the bike. Yet you will have to either way in order to swap the frame's front triangle.Carbonda offers a very standard compromise - give a deposit and they will send a replacement. When you get it swapped over, you will get your deposit back.Can you ride your bike right now, as is? I thought you were injured and the bike cracked enough that it is deemed a warranty replacement item, likely unsafe?
So you want to continue riding a cracked carbon framed bike, while injured, and then when the new front triangle arrives, disassemble and swap the parts over?
If so, pay the deposit. Not an uncommon practice or unreasonable thing for a company to request.
But why do you want to ride a broken bike that you were concerned enough that you asked the company for a replacement?
Sorry for my bad english.
Carbonda says it's bad design at some frames, it's warranty issue. Now I'm resting about 1-2 weeks, before I can do easy rides. If now I will cutt off my frame I can't even do easy ride on flat terrain. Why I need to pay 500$ when I already payed fo the whole frame.Thear are so fearing that I can get some benefit of having additional used cracked front triangle? )) It's ridiculous.
I just want not to loose riding time, because shipping can have random times now, may be it will be 2-3 months?
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Looks like chipped paint to me???
You should see the cracks in the clearcoat on my Turner Czar. :D
Carbonda says it's a bad design with alu inserts in carbon. And it's warranty issue.
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If you do not appreciate your time, you are immortal? I don't have endless time, and want to ride my bike as much as possible.
N+1
Pay the deposit. Ride the busted bike. Receive warranty frame. Swap parts. Destroy old busted frame. Get $500 back and use to buildup a backup bike. It’s like layaway. Win win.
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I'm with everyone else here. Their handling of the warranty seems very reasonable.
I've worked in shops and seen large "A Tier" manufacturers handle warranty claims significantly worse.
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N+1
Pay the deposit. Ride the busted bike. Receive warranty frame. Swap parts. Destroy old busted frame. Get $500 back and use to buildup a backup bike. It’s like layaway. Win win.
Sounds good, if you have excess 500$ to credit carbonda ))
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Sounds good, if you have excess 500$ to credit carbonda ))
The opportunity cost of $500 to a cyclist isn’t a lot of money. If you are strapped and don’t have it then wait until you do.
I’m riding my backup bike today. For giggles.
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Sorry Denis, I know it's very annoying not to have a bike for X number of weeks. This could happen with Specialized too, if you broke your frame this year it could take ages for a replacement because of the shortages due to Covid. Honestly, Carbonda is doing ok, many people have had big bike brand argue that they used the bike incorrectly or such and therefore don't get a warranty. This is a generic supply chain issue, seen in almost every manufacturing company on earth this year. https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-56186655
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My 14 yr old 45kilo wringing wet son had a Felt Decree frame fail on him, the headset collapsed up into the frame less than 3 months after he got it. Felt spent months denying the claim, giving all sorts of bullshit excuses from I did the headset up to tight to he used incorrect technique landing a jump. I challenged everyone of these excuses with logic and reasoning until it got to the point they ran out of excuses and just stopped replying to emails. I then threatened to take Wiggle to the department of Fair Trading and had the offer of a choice of two frames that afternoon, neither of them Felt. Wiggle copped the loss, Felt walked away at no cost. In Australia we are protected because our consumer laws say that the warranty is the responsibility of the seller, not the manufacturer. Wiggle had previously lost a similar case with Dept. of Fair Trading.
I would be grateful that they have acknowledge it is a warranty issue and do everything I could to make a change over happen. As has been said by others, plenty of brand name manufacturers out there that treat you worse than what you have been offered.
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how many frames are having that cracks of the front triangle near the linkage. Isn't it aleady the second on here?
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Here is my bling build !
The weather isn't very nice here, so only two ~70km rides so far.
But I loved every instant of them, a smile from one ear to the other, even once when I crashed it :o
Not sure if it is the geometry, the full suspension, the seatpost or the electronic shifting in particular, but this has little in common with my past hardtail riding.
It is a size M SL.
OG-Evkin bar
Ligthbicyle XC925 wheelset with DT-Swiss EXP 240.
XX1 AXS derailleur + Blipbox + Multiclics
SID Ultimate 120mm and SIDLuxe shock 42.5mm
Piccola brakes
Reverb AXS
2.35 tires.
And 10,1kg
The commands are, left click easier gear, right click harder gear.
Click on both for the seatpost.
I was hoping for a more greenish blue, than this reddish one, but I start to get used to it ::)
I'm still testing different 3D printed mounts for the blips for different positions.
For now the cables are taped below the bar, my plan was to make them go through the bar end and exit through one of the mount holes.
But there was some sun, and I preferred to go ride than work more on it. Maybe later.
that's a hell of a nice build! Very light as well. I wonder if you can share the part list with weights. Must have cost a fortune...
when did you order the Piccola? must be ages ago...
also I wonder how @Vipassana got his/her Piccola...
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that's a hell of a nice build! Very light as well. I wonder if you can share the part list with weights. Must have cost a fortune...
when did you order the Piccola? must be ages ago...
also I wonder how @Vipassana got his/her Piccola...
Ah, perhaps I was misleading. I have not built the bike yet. Still in the planning (and saving) stage. That is nearly the exact build I want to build when parts (and budget) become more available this year. Perhaps near the end of summer?
Maybe I should order the brakes now? If they are too hard to get, I will run XTR instead.
I and also waiting to learn a bit more about the FM909 as well before starting.
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how many frames are having that cracks of the front triangle near the linkage. Isn't it aleady the second on here?
I think all of the mark1 frame may crack at this place. Carbonda said that later alu insert part was redesigned.
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Maybe I should order the brakes now?
Definitely should do that!
Lead time on them is 12-15 months, R2-Bike says 4-8 months and Bike Components up to 7 months. I think Bike Components also gets them from time to time, so worth checking if they have some in stock.
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Definitely should do that!
Lead time on them is 12-15 months, R2-Bike says 4-8 months and Bike Components up to 7 months. I think Bike Components also gets them from time to time, so worth checking if they have some in stock.
I just went to r2-bike and something funny is going on with the pricing. I put a set of Piccolo HD and two Dachle UL 180mm rotors in my cart. Then when I went to check out, the price went from 754 euro for the set to 897 euro. And the rotors went from 105 to 125. I can't get the prices to reset on that device. The lower prices are shown when I go to another computer. ::)
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Probably is updating the country tax ;)
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Probably is updating the country tax ;)
Yep, this. I'm from Germany like R2, and the price is 897€ with German VAT.
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Yep, this. I'm from Germany like R2, and the price is 897€ with German VAT.
Interesting. I was using a computer owned by a German company and our internet traffic might present as such. I'll use my home computer (US) tonight and see what happens. Hopefully that gets me out of VAT?
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that's a hell of a nice build! Very light as well. I wonder if you can share the part list with weights. Must have cost a fortune...
when did you order the Piccola? must be ages ago...
also I wonder how @Vipassana got his/her Piccola...
My initial build list (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1rbT28IhY802cn844UoSj960VWR9UTIYRHEOqxzus6Zc/edit) is somewhere in this thread about 100 pages before that one...
Unfortunately I didn't update it, nor the final cost. So it is not very relevant anymore.
I try to convince me, it didn't cost me more than 6500€ ???
Usually I order the parts when I get the frame. But luckily here almost all parts were ordered in June/July 2020.
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I think all of the mark1 frame may crack at this place. Carbonda said that later alu insert part was redesigned.
How do we know if we have a compromised frame?
I’m at 475 miles and need to sort out a squeak when the suspension compresses. Haven’t done anything but air to tires and lube to chain.
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I've got 1100 miles on mine and no issue at the rocker/seat tube pivot for me yet.
I did have a squeak from an out of spec lower pivot pin tho. Really easy to check and fix if needed.
I just squeeze the non-drive side crank arm & chainstay together firmly a few times with one hand while using the other to feel the pivot for any side to side play between the main frame & rear triangle.
If there is some play there then you probably have a lower pivot pin that is too long. If so, just pull that pivot pin out and measure it - if it's over 80mm long just file it down to 80mm and reinstall and torque back to spec (I'd recommend blue locktite here).
Happened to mine about 500-600 miles ago and has been squeak-free and solid ever since that fix.
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I've got 1100 miles on mine and no issue at the rocker/seat tube pivot for me yet.
I did have a squeak from an out of spec lower pivot pin tho. Really easy to check and fix if needed.
I just squeeze the non-drive side crank arm & chainstay together firmly a few times with one hand while using the other to feel the pivot for any side to side play between the main frame & rear triangle.
If there is some play there then you probably have a lower pivot pin that is too long. If so, just pull that pivot pin out and measure it - if it's over 80mm long just file it down to 80mm and reinstall and torque back to spec (I'd recommend blue locktite here).
Happened to mine about 500-600 miles ago and has been squeak-free and solid ever since that fix.
Did the same hack as ordered by Adam... Some loctite and done.
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Another sizing question ::)
I am 5'10.5" (179cm) tall, 78cm inseam and like everyone else, stuck between a Medium or Large. Most people my size go with a Medium. I'm currently on a Medium - 19 Cannondale Trail Two and it's small. Reach is 425mm & Top Tube is 610mm. My goal is more of a "downcountry" build, 120-130mm of travel, max travel in the rear, 760mm bar, 30-45mm stem.
The Medium FM936 has 475mm ;D reach but the Top Tube is 612mm :o and I plan on using a 120mm(~526mm) fork vs 100mm(502mm) suggested shortening my reach to ~465mm.
Comparing to other similar bikes in their suggested sizes for my height, I should target 480mm reach and a top tube of 630mm. The Large has 20mm more reach and a 640mm top tube :o.
Leaning towards a large for more of a stable bike rather than a shorter fast bike like my current trail.
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InsaneDawe,
Have you considered the FM909? Looks like you're built similar to me, shorter inseam with longish reach. The only reason I didn't go large on the FM936 was because of the seat tube length on that size, but the large FM909 looks like it has a shorter seat tube - still the same slack geo as the FM936 tho.
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Another sizing question ::)
I am 5'10.5" (179cm) tall, 78cm inseam and like everyone else, stuck between a Medium or Large. Most people my size go with a Medium. I'm currently on a Medium - 19 Cannondale Trail Two and it's small. Reach is 425mm & Top Tube is 610mm. My goal is more of a "downcountry" build, 120-130mm of travel, max travel in the rear, 760mm bar, 30-45mm stem.
The Medium FM936 has 475mm ;D reach but the Top Tube is 612mm :o and I plan on using a 120mm(~526mm) fork vs 100mm(502mm) suggested shortening my reach to ~465mm.
Comparing to other similar bikes in their suggested sizes for my height, I should target 480mm reach and a top tube of 630mm. The Large has 20mm more reach and a 640mm top tube :o.
Leaning towards a large for more of a stable bike rather than a shorter fast bike like my current trail.
After doing some more research on a very similar NS bike, Large is correct. This frame is meant to have larger than average reach and top tube, it's the goal of the original designer. Sticking to a size large.
InsaneDawe,
Have you considered the FM909? Looks like you're built similar to me, shorter inseam with longish reach. The only reason I didn't go large on the FM936 was because of the seat tube length on that size, but the large FM909 looks like it has a shorter seat tube - still the same slack geo as the FM936 tho.
Haven't looked at it, first glance, don't want a 30.9 seatpost simply for the reason that 95% of my components will transfer over from my Trail and that would require me to buy a new dropper.
The seatpost length on the FM936 does have me concerned. I run my seat at 660mm from the BB. 490 will require me to reduce my OneUp 150 travel.
I would also want to look for reviews of bikes with similar geometry and suspension setup to the FM909 while I'm confident in the FM936 geo.
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@InsaneDawe I run my seat at 735 mm and I just barely fit my 150mm PRO dropper. So at 660 mm I would say you probably won't fit a 150 dropper.
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I think all of the mark1 frame may crack at this place. Carbonda said that later alu insert part was redesigned.
pardon? :o
this can't be true. When I asked Wing she said "one in a thousand" because occacionally a new employee doesn't do his/her job right. Something wrong in layer placement she said. So it's not limited to a batch or even all the MK1 frames.
I got mine August 2020 and haven't ridden it since and fearing now that it will fail.
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Ah, perhaps I was misleading. I have not built the bike yet. Still in the planning (and saving) stage. That is nearly the exact build I want to build when parts (and budget) become more available this year. Perhaps near the end of summer?
Maybe I should order the brakes now? If they are too hard to get, I will run XTR instead.
I and also waiting to learn a bit more about the FM909 as well before starting.
better order the brakes yesterday. If you are not a sponsored team rider, then you have to wait 12-15 months.
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The seatpost length on the FM936 does have me concerned. I run my seat at 660mm from the BB. 490 will require me to reduce my OneUp 150 travel.
Do you mean 660mm from BB to the top of the saddle? Because if that's the case, it'll be tough to fit even just a 100mm dropper in there. So I'm guessing you mean 660mm to the saddle clamp?
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After a few dirty rides resently I have found that my reat triangle gets filled with water. I think it enters through the rear derailleur and rear brake cable holes.
There are no plastic covers for those holes as far as I can tell. Has anyone else come across this issue? Do you have covers for the holes?
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InsaneDawe,
Top tube length is no more a critical data in geo charts anymore.
In this frame the effective TT will be shorter then on a progressive, older geometry bike because of the much steeper seat tube angle.
The size L frame have a 490mm ST length which is ridiculously long for your height, especially if you really want to build a down country bike with a usable dropped length and enjoy the downhills.
With size M you'll get 6cm longer front center and 50mm longer wheelbase then your basic hardtail have. This mean more stability.
This is a XC bike, not a hard core trail/ enduro bike, you don't need 500mm reach. 475 will feel also really long after the cannondale.
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InsaneDawe,
Top tube length is no more a critical data in geo charts anymore.
In this frame the effective TT will be shorter then on a progressive, older geometry bike because of the much steeper seat tube angle.
The size L frame have a 490mm ST length which is ridiculously long for your height, especially if you really want to build a down country bike with a usable dropped length and enjoy the downhills.
With size M you'll get 6cm longer front center and 50mm longer wheelbase then your basic hardtail have. This mean more stability.
This is a XC bike, not a hard core trail/ enduro bike, you don't need 500mm reach. 475 will feel also really long after the cannondale.
The fact remains he'll need a longer stem with that shorter TT for a comfortable cockpit length (ask me how I know) and the longer stem will slow down the steering that will already be slow with a 66 degree HT.
This bike really needs a shorter stem to wake up IMO if running a 120mm fork. If I was ordering again I'd get a large as well - actually I'd get the large FM909 because it has a shorter ST so I'd have better dropper options.
Steeper STs and slacker HTs mean shorter cockpits if the TT isn't lengthened.
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Do you mean 660mm from BB to the top of the saddle? Because if that's the case, it'll be tough to fit even just a 100mm dropper in there. So I'm guessing you mean 660mm to the saddle clamp?
Yes, 660mm to the saddle clamp.
@InsaneDawe I run my seat at 735 mm and I just barely fit my 150mm PRO dropper. So at 660 mm I would say you probably won't fit a 150 dropper.
Which frame size do you have? Carbonda says 230 seat post clearance in a large. Somewhere in the 100+ pages in this thread, I saw someone mention they were able to fix the full stem of a 150mm dropper.
The OneUp V2 has an short stack height compared to other droppers. When doing the math, 490mm ST - 230mm Stem Clearance = 260mm to the dropper bottom + 420mm Total Dropper Length(@150mm) = 680ish. I can shim down 20mm of travel and I'm also betting I could squeeze the cable actuator bellow the pivot as one person reported, putting the collar at the top of the seat tube. I'll report back.
InsaneDawe,
Top tube length is no more a critical data in geo charts anymore.
In this frame the effective TT will be shorter then on a progressive, older geometry bike because of the much steeper seat tube angle.
The size L frame have a 490mm ST length which is ridiculously long for your height, especially if you really want to build a down country bike with a usable dropped length and enjoy the downhills.
With size M you'll get 6cm longer front center and 50mm longer wheelbase then your basic hardtail have. This mean more stability.
This is a XC bike, not a hard core trail/ enduro bike, you don't need 500mm reach. 475 will feel also really long after the cannondale.
What wfl3 said. I currently have a 70mm stem and my seat 20mm back on my Trail two to increase my "real top tube length" and it feels "okay" for pedaling. Moving my seat back to 0mm and running a 40mm stem will give me back, 50mm or more.
Reach is a vertical measurement for when I'm up and out of the seat and that 490mm reach will give "confidence".
Again, further research into similar NS, Vitus etc. and other comparable bikes, that large is about right for my size. Keep in mind that this frame is known for it's "progressive" geometry, more of a comfy marathon XC bike rather than a traditional all out sprint XC bike.
Yes the ST length is just plain wrong, it could be a shorter than it is. FM909 would probably be a better fit but again, I have a 31.6mm dropper.
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The OneUp V2 has an short stack height compared to other droppers. When doing the math, 490mm ST - 230mm Stem Clearance = 260mm to the dropper bottom + 420mm Total Dropper Length(@150mm) = 680ish.
Math looks good to me. A 130 dropper would be fine in there. But considering your indended use, 130mm isn't a lot...
What wfl3 said. I currently have a 70mm stem and my seat 20mm back on my Trail two to increase my "real top tube length" and it feels "okay" for pedaling. Moving my seat back to 0mm and running a 40mm stem will give me back, 50mm or more.
Reach is a vertical measurement for when I'm up and out of the seat and that 490mm reach will give "confidence".
Again, further research into similar NS, Vitus etc. and other comparable bikes, that large is about right for my size. Keep in mind that this frame is known for it's "progressive" geometry, more of a comfy marathon XC bike rather than a traditional all out sprint XC bike.
What the manufacturer says and what you want are two different things. All that NS/Vitus etc. are doing is basically saying that everyone should size up. The geometry itself isn't very radical, just the suggested frame size. Look at the Specialized Epic Evo - easily the benchmark of progressive down country - which is identical in size L compared to the FM936's size M. Of course there are bikes like the Transition Spur, which is more trail than down country. Geometry wise you could try and replicate that with the FM936, but suspension wise it won't come close to the Spur's 120mm rear.
That being said, if you want to run a 40mm stem, go large. Considering the difference in stack height between your Cannondale and the FM936, the actual reach difference is even lower. So if you want to run the handlebars at the same height, the FM936 will have only 30mm more reach in size M and 60mm more reach in size L. Personally I would run a lower handlebar with no rise, making the size M feel a lot longer. But putting it higher fits your idea of a chilled marathon bike.
One more thing: Some people seem to neglect that a riser bar effectively increases your stem length. Every 10mm of rise give you about 4mm of stem length, since you're moving the bar up vertically, away from the steerer tube. That's why probably no one runs a 40mm stem and a flat bar, that would just be too nervous. On the other hand, a longer stem and a riser bar will feel very old school. So either get a short stem and riser, or longer stem and flat bar. What you choose is determined by the desired cockpit height, the effective stem length is the same.
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I may have caused some confusion, my current Trail in a M feels small, twitchy and etc. I've tried a lot of hacks to stretch it. My reason for buying a Chiner frame is that I like the hardware on the Trail but want a larger frame.
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I'm the same height and went with the large, 120 mm fork, 45 mm stem, and 10 mm riser bar, 780 mm wide. It still feels a bit short compared to my 6 year old large hardtail.
I was also concerned about dropper length, and went with the OneUp 150 mm. I did the calculations and figured I might have to run the collar at the seat clamp or reduce the travel. But as it turns out, I've been able to raise it ~1 - 1.5" above the seat clamp.
So I think there's a good case for going for the large with the OneUp 150 dropper.
Ted
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I’m 6’2” and got the XL. Run the OneUp at 190mm. Seat slams to the ST as low as it can go.
I think you know best based on your current setup. I wanted a higher handlebar position w a nearly slammed shorter stem. I couldn’t imagine riding a L with headset spacers and a longer stem.
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I’m 6’2” and got the XL. Run the OneUp at 190mm. Seat slams to the ST as low as it can go.
I think you know best based on your current setup. I wanted a higher handlebar position w a nearly slammed shorter stem. I couldn’t imagine riding a L with headset spacers and a longer stem.
This is just the info I was looking for. To confirm, you are saying a 210mm Oneup dropper (that you have shimmed down to 190mm) will fit in the seat tube of an XL frame? If so that is great.
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Yes. My center of BB to center of seat rail is 76.5cm.
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Yes. My center of BB to center of seat rail is 76.5cm.
Perfect, thanks. I'm a little taller than you and may even be able to run it at 200mm. The worry I had was weather there was enough space in the seat tube for the shaft of the post, as the 210 post is quite a bit longer than the 180. But if it fits for you then it should work for me too! Now I just need to find one in stock that can ship to Norway...
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Perfect, thanks. I'm a little taller than you and may even be able to run it at 200mm. The worry I had was weather there was enough space in the seat tube for the shaft of the post, as the 210 post is quite a bit longer than the 180. But if it fits for you then it should work for me too! Now I just need to find one in stock that can ship to Norway...
I’ve got a buddy in Kongsberg that use to import Strider bikes. He might know somebody.
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I'll send a PM
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Hi there,
Anyone in Europe have a shock with remote lockout that may fit this beauty?, I can´t find any, not even talking about choosing between 165x40 or 165x42.5 for me both are fine, also any brand.
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My medium SL was right at 1855g w/o shock & shock hardware (no axle or seat clamp either).
Just a bit under 2100 grams with shock mounted up.
ှIs your frame with paint or without paint ?
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ှIs your frame with paint or without paint ?
No paint
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Hi Guys,
another size question...
I'm 178cm with a 87cm inseam.
Curent I ride a Transition Smuggler in Large size with a 35mm stem.
I ordered the 935 in size L but not sure a M fits me better?
Will ride it with a SID 120mm.
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Hi Guys,
another size question...
I'm 178cm with a 87cm inseam.
Curent I ride a Transition Smuggler in Large size with a 35mm stem.
I ordered the 935 in size L but not sure a M fits me better?
Will ride it with a SID 120mm.
Depends on your personal preference and intended use. Both bikes may fit you.
What stem would you be running on the FM936? Size large with a 120 fork will be slightly bigger than your Smuggler, about 16mm more reach and 17mm longer top tube. So if you wanna run a 35mm stem on the FM936 as well, just put on a 50mm stem on your current bike and see how that feels - apart from handling of course.
Concerning the intended use, it may be said that the size medium will sit between XC and Down Country and the size large will lean more towards Trail. But that hugely depends on what you ride and how you ride, so everyone will give you a different answer here ;)
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Hi Guys,
one more question about the frame size.
Which size would the experts recommend?
I'm 188cm tall with 91cm inseam.
I'm interested in an fm936 and am not sure what size will fit better for me and my requirements. I'm looking for a light trail bike (downcountry) with about 120mm suspension.
I am unsure between L and XL, I am "afraid" that the drop in size L will be too extreme and the stem has to be long, on the other hand the frame of size XL might be too long for my short upper body. XL with a short (35mm) stem?
Thanks in advands!
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My recommendation would be XL, but i'm a fan of stretched seating positions :-X
What is TT length, reach and stem length of your current bike and how do you feel with it? I went good with comparing to existing material.
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If it can help you in a way.
I'm 10cm shorter than you, but just 2cm inseam less.
And I'm with a M with a 60mm integrated stem/bar.
With an XL, your saddle will be much lower than me in the frame, the reach is just 45mm longer than M.
So if you select a shorter stem, you get even more flexibility to fit the bike well.
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Dissasemble frame for repair. Found 2 cracks on link.
(https://sun9-23.userapi.com/impg/xVdqWyiVlhnJToAleVCad1r-aP9vsBIjAl4ziw/kJKPo76OpRo.jpg?size=2067x1587&quality=96&sign=9669b0c15ce491b8677afa98d6e9f6f2&type=album)
(https://sun9-74.userapi.com/impg/eG36jblTHWS8sne2nfqe-v6uR2w9ntBUruw86g/u4EISmavv2k.jpg?size=2212x2160&quality=96&sign=4c98d0774c11cf7db2422d5ee611ca30&type=album)
(https://sun9-32.userapi.com/impg/2_pojjxg8-yZJwgRqxwFf9_PjB7EuTcB7JZgwg/FSKt3JzT3PM.jpg?size=1952x2160&quality=96&sign=8dc45ee511b16b992b807f7599fb09d2&type=album)
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One summer of riding on local xc trails.
Also rounded bolt on lower pivot. Very soft steel and hex hole are not enogh deep. Shittiest quality of bolts that I've ever seen on the frames.
(https://sun9-33.userapi.com/impg/oNxPCMfAd6m1Mn3h-3WENXamPBvI437Qhp8jsA/JCEewVAddi4.jpg?size=2560x1920&quality=96&sign=8aeddc0290b0cdb462a99b6c55c7a5b0&type=album)
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Dissasemble frame for repair. Found 2 cracks on link.
Your pictures do not seem to appear here. Did you contact Carbonda yet ?
Do you have the bolt sizes ? Maybe we could then look for reliable ones.
Here are the links of the picture:
https://sun9-23.userapi.com/impg/xVdqWyiVlhnJToAleVCad1r-aP9vsBIjAl4ziw/kJKPo76OpRo.jpg?size=2067x1587&quality=96&sign=9669b0c15ce491b8677afa98d6e9f6f2&type=album
https://sun9-74.userapi.com/impg/eG36jblTHWS8sne2nfqe-v6uR2w9ntBUruw86g/u4EISmavv2k.jpg?size=2212x2160&quality=96&sign=4c98d0774c11cf7db2422d5ee611ca30&type=album
https://sun9-32.userapi.com/impg/2_pojjxg8-yZJwgRqxwFf9_PjB7EuTcB7JZgwg/FSKt3JzT3PM.jpg?size=1952x2160&quality=96&sign=8dc45ee511b16b992b807f7599fb09d2&type=album
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Sorry, I don't figured with pictures here. Thank you.
Yes, have contacted with carbonda, now waiting there answer. May be they again suggest to cut off link)) or pay them 500$ deposit.
For this moment i just can't only dissasemble lower main pivot, decided not to extract bolt( bearings in good condition, all greased before building bike year ago), repair frame and ride until season ends. Then extract bolt, take it dimensions , and make more quality bolts at local cnc workshop. I will post info here, may be make 2-3 spare quality bolts.
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They really should have used a torx head for the smaller bolt assembly side on the lower pivot - like they did for the rocker tip assemblies. Aluminum is to soft in my opinion for heads that small if they need more than 6nm torque, especially once you add a little blue loctite.
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I had no problem dissembling the lower creaking pivot after 550 miles. An easy way to tell you have too long a bolt is if the drive side spins relatively easily after 10nm torque is achieved. I did not have a lot of play but I did have that carbon on carbon squeak emanating from pivot area.
I am now going to hand file 2mm off this bolt!!!
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I did have that carbon on carbon squeak emanating from pivot area.
Out of curiosity - how did you got rid of the carbon on carbon squeak?
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Out of curiosity - how did you got rid of the carbon on carbon squeak?
As reported earlier, many frames were delivered with an out of spec lower pivot bolt (the one right above the bottom bracket). The creak sets in around 400-500miles and it sounds like carbon on carbon, not super high pitched, but a little whiney.
I identified the issue by:
1. Torque the non drive side to 10nm (don’t over torque or you will strip the bolt head as noted above).
2. On the drive side, try to turn the bolt head (without holding the other end on the non drive side) and you can feel if there is enough clamping force. If it spins somewhat freely, much less than 10nm, then your frame has the too long bolt.
3. Remove the bolt and file it down 1-2mm. Reinstall and torque to 10nm. The clamping force should make it much harder to spin the drive side bolt.
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As reported earlier, many frames were delivered with an out of spec lower pivot bolt (the one right above the bottom bracket). The creak sets in around 400-500miles and it sounds like carbon on carbon, not super high pitched, but a little whiney.
I identified the issue by:
1. Torque the non drive side to 10nm (don’t over torque or you will strip the bolt head as noted above).
2. On the drive side, try to turn the bolt head (without holding the other end on the non drive side) and you can feel if there is enough clamping force. If it spins somewhat freely, much less than 10nm, then your frame has the too long bolt.
3. Remove the bolt and file it down 1-2mm. Reinstall and torque to 10nm. The clamping force should make it much harder to spin the drive side bolt.
I took off just under 1.5mm using hand tools. Took about 30min
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I took off just under 1.5mm using hand tools. Took about 30min
Been there done that... I would add some loctite, blue or red. Did it first time without and came loose.
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Been there done that... I would add some loctite, blue or red. Did it first time without and came loose.
Yes, I found the blue loctite with my carpentry tools and added a few drops to the threads.
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Just got done with a 20 mile loop and can confirm this fixed the carbon on carbon squeak that comes from the lower pivot. The squeak was most pronounced on seated climbs when the fall line was pulling the bike horizontal. It is a rhythmic squeak timed with pedal bob.
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How did you get the bolt out? I was trying to remove mine at one point when troubleshooting the squeak but could not get it move laterally, even though it would spin in place. I tried inserting a long allen key from the non drive side and hammering it out and still nothing. This was with the pressure released from the shock and moving the swing arm up and down as well.
Has anyone found a replacement for the non drive side bolt? I've stripped mine but can make it work for now. I'd rather not wait for shipping from China for a bolt that will probably strip again.
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How did you get the bolt out? I was trying to remove mine at one point when troubleshooting the squeak but could not get it move laterally, even though it would spin in place. I tried inserting a long allen key from the non drive side and hammering it out and still nothing. This was with the pressure released from the shock and moving the swing arm up and down as well.
Has anyone found a replacement for the non drive side bolt? I've stripped mine but can make it work for now. I'd rather not wait for shipping from China for a bolt that will probably strip again.
I had to remove the crank (the squeak can be easily confused with a dry spindle squeak but the spindle squeak is higher pitched aluminum on aluminum)
Then, with the non drive side bolt still threaded in a few turns, tap the bolt head with a mallet.
It should come out.
I didn’t release air from shock. I just removed the rear wheel.
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How did you get the bolt out? I was trying to remove mine at one point when troubleshooting the squeak but could not get it move laterally, even though it would spin in place. I tried inserting a long allen key from the non drive side and hammering it out and still nothing. This was with the pressure released from the shock and moving the swing arm up and down as well.
Has anyone found a replacement for the non drive side bolt? I've stripped mine but can make it work for now. I'd rather not wait for shipping from China for a bolt that will probably strip again.
I replaced mine by a simple conical head bolt. Similar to https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32779413095.html
It goes perfectly in the conical washer but doesn't insert full lenght so not as clean as the original.
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In my quest for having two bottles with me for marathon rides.
Anyone tried this kind of mount ?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975689555.html
It allows to have two bottles side by side.
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I've only tried that mount on a GG Trail Pistol with the bottle cages hanging down from the top tube, haven't tried with a bike on the downtube. It was wide enough that my knees were constantly hitting the bottles. It also looks real silly, but some may not care about that.
I think the best solution is using a mount to stuff two bottles in the triangle. I used Lyne Components for inspiration (because I wouldn't pay this much for just a mount) https://www.on-lynecomponents.com/collections/the-holy-rail/products/holy-rail-dual-cage-kit and I 3D printed my own bracket. It's about 100g if I remember right, super stiff, and I can design it fit the frame perfectly. Here's a picture mounted on my LCFS911, not too easy to see in that picture but it shows the concept. The mount shifts the forward bottle cage up one bolt hole, so if you mount a cage on the FM936 using just the top hole and it fits, and then if you can hold a bottle between that and the shock, I should be able to make a mount that will fit. I've also got a 1:1 PDF of the mount that you could cut out and see if it fits without modification.
(https://i.imgur.com/NPJCuyZl.jpg)
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...I 3D printed my own bracket...
That is a well designed option. Thanks !!
What material did you use to 3D print it ?
I started to use Fusion360(a great software) to do these kind of things 8)
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I used ABS to print mine, but I've used PETG on some for friends since I'm able to print it better. I've used mine for about 800 miles and it's holding up great.
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In my quest for having two bottles with me for marathon rides.
Anyone tried this kind of mount ?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975689555.html
It allows to have two bottles side by side.
To use this you might need a Wolftooth BRAD base to move the bottles higher/farther up the down tube to avoid hitting w knees. The Wolftooth setup seems more geared for gravel touring where you are seated. I get very far forward and down low on the front of my bike when the dropper is activated and I’m pushing my tires limits.
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I had to remove the crank (the squeak can be easily confused with a dry spindle squeak but the spindle squeak is higher pitched aluminum on aluminum)
Then, with the non drive side bolt still threaded in a few turns, tap the bolt head with a mallet.
It should come out.
I didn’t release air from shock. I just removed the rear wheel.
This method worked for me. The bolt measures 83.16mm. Time for some filing.
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...Wolftooth BRAD...
Bottle Relocation and Accessory Device
This is serious gear :)
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/b-rad-system
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Hey @adroitrider,
how long is that bolt supposed to be?
Mine is exactly 83 mm.
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Hey @adroitrider,
how long is that bolt supposed to be?
Mine is exactly 83 mm.
Adam @ Carbonda told me 80mm and that resolved the issue for me.
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Hey @adroitrider,
how long is that bolt supposed to be?
Mine is exactly 83 mm.
I took mine to just below 82mm. The key is clamping force on the pivot and a 1+mm reduction in bolt length will go a long way. To take it down to 80mm I would recommend a bench vise and a hand file with a handle.
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I took mine to just below 82mm. The key is clamping force on the pivot and a 1+mm reduction in bolt length will go a long way. To take it down to 80mm I would recommend a bench vise and a hand file with a handle.
I only have simple bike tools so I went to an engine restoration machine shop. $20 but exactly 80mm and super clean finish.
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Hey guys and girls,
Will a 148-180-20-M12-P1.5 axle fit?
Cheers
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My Carbonda FM936 project is completed
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My Carbonda FM936 project is completed
Looks ace!
Enjoy.
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My Carbonda FM936 project is completed
Looked really good. How much weight for the whole bike without paddles?
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really nice bike,
love the clean look,
not a fan of the cable routing beside the rear shock,
but most of the frames, don't have a better solution
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really nice bike,
love the clean look,
not a fan of the cable routing beside the rear shock,
but most of the frames, don't have a better solution
I thought the same thing but after 500 miles there isn’t a single scuff mark on the shock. There is very little movement due to the nature of the trunnion mount and full length housing.
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Looked really good. How much weight for the whole bike without paddles?
Total weight without paddles: 10,50kg !
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really nice bike,
love the clean look,
not a fan of the cable routing beside the rear shock,
but most of the frames, don't have a better solution
Nothing is perfekt
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Any recommendations where to find a 165x42.5 shock for this frame? I see a bunch of 45mm in the market.
I assume 45mm is not recommended?
Also, will I need to source additional spacers and bushings for fit?
Thanks!
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Any recommendations where to find a 165x42.5 shock for this frame? I see a bunch of 45mm in the market.
I assume 45mm is not recommended?
Also, will I need to source additional spacers and bushings for fit?
Thanks!
Go with the 40. 42.5 gets nothing more than a risk to the warranty. I wonder if the cracks referenced to the rear triangle are due to running a 42.5.
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Go with the 40. 42.5 gets nothing more than a risk to the warranty. I wonder if the cracks referenced to the rear triangle are due to running a 42.5.
I think this is bs...lots of us use the 42.5 without any issues!
Same frame is used by several other resellers also with 42.5/110mm travel.
So would go with 42.5. rs deluxe can somethimes be found for nice price.
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Hi guys - I've just received my standard size M to New Zealand took 10 days from payment to delivery. Communication was with Wing and everything went very smoothly, frame was well packed and all items were received in good condition. I have noticed that the seat tube seems to be shorter than other frames I haven't seen this anywhere including the Carbonda/Flybike websites... has anyone else noticed this?
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My medium seat tube measures about 17.25 inches from center of BB to top of seat tube - which is right about the 440mm I've seen in the geo charts for the medium 936?
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My medium seat tube measures about 17.25 inches from center of BB to top of seat tube - which is right about the 440mm I've seen in the geo charts for the medium 936?
Yep measures 440mm or 17.3 inches...
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Thought I had better check for some of the issues that have been discussed on the forum and sure enough the lower pivot bolt is nearly 82mm - one clean cut with a hacksaw will fix that! Any other 'niggles' I should be looking for?
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Thought I had better check for some of the issues that have been discussed on the forum and sure enough the lower pivot bolt is nearly 82mm - one clean cut with a hacksaw will fix that! Any other 'niggles' I should be looking for?
Did you have the squeaking with this bolt?
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Thought I had better check for some of the issues that have been discussed on the forum and sure enough the lower pivot bolt is nearly 82mm - one clean cut with a hacksaw will fix that! Any other 'niggles' I should be looking for?
Did anyone reported that issue to Wing already?
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Did anyone reported that issue to Wing already?
They even sent me the answer for this problem...
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I think this is bs...lots of us use the 42.5 without any issues!
Same frame is used by several other resellers also with 42.5/110mm travel.
So would go with 42.5. rs deluxe can somethimes be found for nice price.
I agree that using a 42.5 is unlikely the cause of the frame damage some users are experiencing. However, the only brand I'm aware of that uses a 42.5 and/or claims more than 100mm of rear travel is NS, and they are using their proprietary rear triangle. There's no need to mislead or make false statements.
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In my quest for having two bottles with me for marathon rides.
Anyone tried this kind of mount ?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975689555.html
It allows to have two bottles side by side.
I carry that with this other piece, so the weight is distributed between the three screws.
€ 11,00 27％ dto. | DRIFT MANIAC-soporte de almacenamiento para bicicleta, soporte para botella, adaptador
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uYQH0b
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Can someone that has experience riding the FM936 talk about the rear suspension a bit?
Is the anti-squat high?
Is an MM tune shock ok for it?
How does it compare to other bikes you have ridden of similar travel?
Thanks!
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I carry that with this other piece, so the weight is distributed between the three screws.
€ 11,00 27％ dto. | DRIFT MANIAC-soporte de almacenamiento para bicicleta, soporte para botella, adaptador
https://a.aliexpress.com/_uYQH0b
Ordered ! This will help, thank you.
I'm ordering all I can right now.
In about 9 days, the packages will arrive after July 1st here in Belgium.
Where all packages will now have VAT applied even for items below 23€.
The end of an era ???
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Can someone that has experience riding the FM936 talk about the rear suspension a bit?
Is the anti-squat high?
Is an MM tune shock ok for it?
How does it compare to other bikes you have ridden of similar travel?
Thanks!
I moved from an Evil Following MB (120/130) to the 936. Following was my first FS with modern geo. The 936 has a 42.5 shock which probably has around 115mm of travel with the flex stays with a 120 Sid on the front.
Following is an amazing bike, very lively and poppy and rarely upset. I never had a harsh bottom out, though it occasionally did. It felt like a light weight enduro bike on most everything but the rowdiest of descents, difference was speed compared to actual enduro. Never felt limited by the 120 mm rear. Climbed ok, but nothing special. Front end got light on steeper technical climbs. My GX build large MB weighed about 30 lbs.
I wanted something lighter and a better climber, but still capable on the downs. Was really interested in a Spur, but couldn't find one. Built up a 936 figuring if I don't like it, I'll swap out the frame for a Spur. My large built up to about 25 lbs without going complete weight wennie. The 936 feels much more lively, responsive and of course quicker. Strava time was about 5% quicker on the 936 the first time I rode it, quicker now.
If the Following was a mini enduro, the 936 is a maxi XC, trophy truck to rally car. The suspension isn't up to the DW Delta Link, but I didn't expect it to be. Baby heads are ok, but it doesn't tame the bigger stuff like the Following. On the climbs, it blows away the Following, actually climbing so well I got rid of my old hardtail. Suspension moves a little on climbs, but never feels like it's sucking energy. I've never touched the lockout.
Headed to Colorado next weekend and will run the 936 a little harder on extended descents that I rode the Following on for a better idea of how they compare, but doubt it will change any of the above much. I may even be surprised how well the 936 does.
Got to ride the updated Following with steeper STA and slightly slacker HTA. Bike buddy bought it because he loved riding mine. Definitely climbs better, but still wouldn't swap for the 936. Funny thing is now the same buddy wants to build a 936 to do marathon races on. He's a long retired semi-pro road racer and really likes how efficient my 936 feels FWIW. He's trying to decide between the 936 and 909.
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@RobertRinAustin
Thanks for the details
I too really like the SPUR, would be the bike Id get but I just dont want to spend 5K+ on another bike. I have tons of parts for the build from my many bikes over the year and can build the FM936 for <2K, the wife will be happy.
I have not ridden a SPUR actually but from what I read its the one to get (although that new Scott Spark looks ridiculous), have you ridden one? How does it compare? I am guessing its much more progressive and stiff feeling bike but not much else, geometry is not too far off and could be tweaked with an angle adjusting headset
https://linkagedesign.blogspot.com/2021/03/transition-spur-29-2020.html
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Did you have the squeaking with this bolt?
No as I haven't built it yet I thought I would perform any mods or checks that are needed before painting it. So just the pivot bolt I guess? It looks like they have not done anything about this issue and it's up to the purchaser to decide what to do IF it becomes a problem - I would rather fix this now before it becomes an issue.
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No as I haven't built it yet I thought I would perform any mods or checks that are needed before painting it. So just the pivot bolt I guess? It looks like they have not done anything about this issue and it's up to the purchaser to decide what to do IF it becomes a problem - I would rather fix this now before it becomes an issue.
Your bolt is shorter by 1.5mm and I think you should be good to go. I wouldn’t trim the bolt.
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Can someone that has experience riding the FM936 talk about the rear suspension a bit?
Is the anti-squat high?
Is an MM tune shock ok for it?
How does it compare to other bikes you have ridden of similar travel?
Thanks!
I’ve always used my single speed to go after the max power smooth climbing segments thinking that the 936 had too much baggage to even come close to a trophy or a PR. I have started to test that theory with out of saddle accelerations and I’ve been surprised with the results. The traction is improved over the SS without a noticeable increase in fatigue. I actually get to the technical braking sections feeling like I have more power for the next acceleration but I am still one second off my PR (1:13). There are other climbing segments that are riddled with baby heads where the 936 floats with out of seat pedaling where the SS has no chance. It’s the technical climbs that have a lot of decelerations where the 936 can’t keep up with the SS.
My last FS bikes were older. I had a Sugar Race (fast XC) and a Titus Racer X. Hard to compare these bikes due to geo differences.
For the MM tune, I think you are good. I believe you want the same tune as the Scott or Giant that has the trunnion in a similar mounting position.
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@RobertRinAustin
Thanks for the details
I too really like the SPUR, would be the bike Id get but I just dont want to spend 5K+ on another bike. I have tons of parts for the build from my many bikes over the year and can build the FM936 for <2K, the wife will be happy.
I have not ridden a SPUR actually but from what I read its the one to get (although that new Scott Spark looks ridiculous), have you ridden one? How does it compare? I am guessing its much more progressive and stiff feeling bike but not much else, geometry is not too far off and could be tweaked with an angle adjusting headset
https://linkagedesign.blogspot.com/2021/03/transition-spur-29-2020.html
I've not ridden the Spur but might demo one next week when I'm in Colorado. Not sure what I'd do if I feel in love with the Spur.
Hey guys and girls,
Will a 148-180-20-M12-P1.5 axle fit?
Cheers
Not sure if anyone ever answered this, but I just checked my stock axle, 180mm M12*P1.5*L16.5. Yours has a few mm longer thread, but shouldn't be an issue.
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My FM936 build. 10,35 kg without pedals. Pretty light regarding it has a dropper post.
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My FM936 build. 10,35 kg without pedals. Pretty light regarding it has a dropper post.
It looks awesome !
Not sure the chainstay protector will stay for long, but I like its minimalist design :D
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My FM936 build. 10,35 kg without pedals. Pretty light regarding it has a dropper post.
Wow, nice!
I like the clean look. It is a bit disturbed by the wheelset's decals. Maybe consider they are still recognisable without labels ;)
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Anybody try and get a crash replacement? What is the policy?
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Anybody try and get a crash replacement? What is the policy?
are you kidding? things broken through the user's fault are not subject to warranty replacement
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are you kidding? things broken through the user's fault are not subject to warranty replacement
He's talking about crash replacement, not warranty. Google it.
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Has anyone actually measured the travel of this bike with 40mm and 42.5mm shocks?
With the X3 linkage software, I always got more travel than it's supposed to have. I thought it must be the flex stays that I can't properly account for.
But now I compared it to the NS Synonym and it seems like all the linkage points are exactly the same (see image below). Only the flexing seat stay is slightly higher up, but that can't make that much of a difference.
I think the only real difference between the NS rear triangle and the Carbonda version is that NS put the bridge between the seat stays closer to the tyre, so that it can move further towards the seat tube and take that 45mm shock.
So if my theory is correct, the FM936 should have more travel. Exactly like the NS Synonym, only that you can't run a 45mm shock.
Which would mean:
37.5mm = 100mm
40.0mm = 107mm
42.5mm = 113mm
45.0mm = 120mm (theoretical, not possible)
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Anybody try and get a crash replacement? What is the policy?
Sorry to see that... It must be saddening.
I would buy some UD carbon cloth and epoxy resin.
And wrap this unfortunate hit with them.
They will probably sell you a rear triangle if asked politely.
But I didn't ear they had a crash replacement policy, but who knows, you can and ask saying we are many here and it would give us some relief 8)
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Sorry to see that... It must be saddening.
I would buy some UD carbon cloth and epoxy resin.
And wrap this unfortunate hit with them.
They will probably sell you a rear triangle if asked politely.
But I didn't ear they had a crash replacement policy, but who knows, you can and ask saying we are many here and it would give us some relief 8)
$440 shipped for a new rear triangle. Not bad.
But, I already have the carbon sheet and resin. Wing recommends repair as it is not a high stress area of the frame.
I have a similar puncture in my Flyxii top tube that I never fixed…might do them both at the same time.
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Has anyone actually measured the travel of this bike with 40mm and 42.5mm shocks?
With the X3 linkage software, I always got more travel than it's supposed to have. I thought it must be the flex stays that I can't properly account for.
But now I compared it to the NS Synonym and it seems like all the linkage points are exactly the same (see image below). Only the flexing seat stay is slightly higher up, but that can't make that much of a difference.
I think the only real difference between the NS rear triangle and the Carbonda version is that NS put the bridge between the seat stays closer to the tyre, so that it can move further towards the seat tube and take that 45mm shock.
So if my theory is correct, the FM936 should have more travel. Exactly like the NS Synonym, only that you can't run a 45mm shock.
Which would mean:
37.5mm = 100mm
40.0mm = 107mm
42.5mm = 113mm
45.0mm = 120mm (theoretical, not possible)
I measured mine with my 42.5 and got about 117 mm. I didn't push too hard into the stays, so there may be a bit more. I keep thinking I'll try it again and snap some pics.
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I measured mine with my 42.5 and got about 117 mm. I didn't push too hard into the stays, so there may be a bit more. I keep thinking I'll try it again and snap some pics.
Thanks!
I've made a mistake though, the Synonym doesn't run a 45mm... But it makes no sense that 37.5 is 100mm and 42.5 is 120mm. That would mean a leverage ratio of 4.
I suspect the 37.5 has slightly more than 100mm and the 42.5 has slightly less than 120mm. That's also what my software is telling me for the FM936.
I actually believe now that the leverage ratios of FM936 and Synonym are pretty much identical.
For the FM936, the software says:
37.5 = 102mm
40.0 = 108mm
42.5 = 115mm
That fit's with your measured 117mm, especially if you pushed and made it flex a little.
Interestingly, the FM936 with 42.5 shock has more travel than the Ican S3 with 45mm shock. The Ican is more progressive though.
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Yeah, I remember a while back someone put some force on his frame and found similar travel. Didn't have the time to find the post #. If I have time, I'll also try to measure actual travel on my 42.5mm shock. NS states the TR1 to have a 42.5mm shock & ~120mm travel.
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Julian , From what I understand the FM936 at 42.5 mm shock is basically 115mm rear end, so your calculations are pretty close. And that rear stay has some flex.
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Julian , From what I understand the FM936 at 42.5 mm shock is basically 115mm rear end, so your calculations are pretty close. And that rear stay has some flex.
Yes, I calculated exactly 115mm of actual travel. Plus whatever the flexing seat stays still give, but I don't count that as "real travel".
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Yes, I calculated exactly 115mm of actual travel. Plus whatever the flexing seat stays still give, but I don't count that as "real travel".
Are you measuring actual shock stroke on a bike you have setup with a 42.5? My XL with a 42.5 does not achieve full stroke regardless of what PSI I run. I get 40mm of stroke on a 42.5mm shock.
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Are you measuring actual shock stroke on a bike you have setup with a 42.5? My XL with a 42.5 does not achieve full stroke regardless of what PSI I run. I get 40mm of stroke on a 42.5mm shock.
0 psi?
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Are you measuring actual shock stroke on a bike you have setup with a 42.5? My XL with a 42.5 does not achieve full stroke regardless of what PSI I run. I get 40mm of stroke on a 42.5mm shock.
I didn't measure anything, I just calculated the theoretical travel with a linkage software (see images below).
But a 42.5mm shock should give you exactly 42.5mm of stroke length. If it doesn't, then I'd open it up and see if there isn't maybe a stroke reducing spacer in there. The 40/42.5/45 mm shocks are all identical except for a 2.5 or 5 mm spacer.
Try compressing it half way and holding it there before you start letting air out. That way the positive and negative air chambers can't equalize and only the positive air chamber lets out air, making the negative air pressure push the shock into full compression.
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0 psi?
0psi did the trick.
I’m now thinking the compression tune on my SidLuxe isn’t ideal for this frame. I looked up a few frames that use the SidLuxe in a similar position and I’m running a higher PSI to get the sag I prefer.
I’ll likely send the shock out for a tune this winter.
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...I’ll likely send the shock out for a tune this winter.
Just curious. Does that void any warranty ?
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Just curious. Does that void any warranty ?
It shouldn't. You're allowed to maintain your stuff.
You especially won't have problems if it is tuned by a certified rockshox warranty center. The ones that handle it near me can for the most part do warranty work as well. No voiding of the warranty from them!
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Not sure if anyone ever answered this, but I just checked my stock axle, 180mm M12*P1.5*L16.5. Yours has a few mm longer thread, but shouldn't be an issue.
Thank you, appreciate you sharing!
Still waiting on parts,so the frame is now just laying there quietly in the corner:(
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Updated as now solved, I tried a spare derailleur hanger and it screw in freely now.
Bit of an odd one has anyone had any issues when installing the rear wheel axle?
The axle I bought is to the specification in the above post, so it does fit.
However when inserting the axle it does not screw in easily at all to the derailleur hanger. If you loosen the derailleur hanger you can tighten the axle up, but then if you tighten the hanger down it is difficult to loosen the axle at all, or re insert.
Taking the hanger off the axle tightens smoothly and easily into the hanger no issue.
It is as though the hanger does not sit flat in the drop out pushing the hanger out a little. Not sure whether to sand the drop out slightly.
Anyone had the same experience?
Probably just me.
Cheers
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...Anyone had the same experience?
Yes, I did with the original hanger.
I noticed it was pivoting around the screw, moving the bolt a little down, and preventing the axle to be screwed in.
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Placed my order May 5th, frame was shipped June 15th, arrived at my door in Chicago, June 24th via DHL Express. Wing said they had BSA-L-Normal Weight frames in stock and that the painting took longer than expected.
Obviously I spent my entire weekend building up
(https://i.imgur.com/UTjwExV.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/zNnlPLj.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/ffLIAgo.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/GunESJP.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/n5Vt0U9.jpg?1)
Initial Impressions
-Cable guides are directional, one is larger for brake hose and one is smaller for cables
-Rear Linkage is carbon
-Bolt hardware is cheap feeling
-No Internal cable Guides
-Cutout at the bottom in the BSA 73 bottom bracket is a bit small
-No large removeable section at bottom of down tube
-Size feels good for me at 5'11"
-Oneup V2 150 can be slammed to the collar
-Some Pivots were dry, some werent
-Paint was chipping near some pivot surface
-Optional headset has good bearings but feels cheap and doesn't have seals, would probably work fine
-Cables can be routed under the shot but may cause brake bleeding problems
-Can't go full lock on Deluxe RT3 because lever hits the frame on lock position
-One chip at the front of the frame
Ride Impressions
-Reach is a little more aggressive than my trail but nothing uncomfortable
-Head angle is slacker than I was used to
-51mm Offset fork wasn't too quick steering
-Hasn't cracked on me yet (have taken it off some kickers, drops, some tech, maybe a crash or two)
-Have hit my cranks a couple times (175mm)
-No noticeable pedal bob, maybe after a long ride when the shock was hot
-Seat height feels fine
-Dropped seat is just right
Still messing around with my suspension settings. Shock is from a Giant Anthem and it feels good. Took a bunch of video during assembly and plan to do a build thread and a LoveMTB style video series.
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I did participate to the Grand Rallye VTT Transverdon in France with my FM-936.
80 riders, 5 days, moving camping, 16 descents, 6000m climbing and 8000 descending.
Here's my FM-936 put on steroid for the occasion, 36mm rims, Magic Mary in front and Hans Dampf in the back( wanted Maxxis like everyone else, but didn't find in stock ).
203mm/180mm disc rotors.
(https://i.imgur.com/Xo9wUpy.jpg)
The bike and myself survived!
It was clearly out of our league, but I improved day by day.
I lost one pivot screw, a zip kept the pivot in place. I should have lock threaded them all...
Broke my GPS mount at the first crash( crashed 3x ).
And bent the hanger twice and put it back straight.
So if someone doubt over the solidity of this frame, don't !
I'm afraid I will need a FM1166 for the future ::)
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Carbonazza,
nice to hear that you were riding 6000 m uphill; so these bikes are good also to climb. I am waiting for haideli AM831, FM1166 was another option on my list. At the end I opted for the new AM831.
Do you lean towards FM1166 just for the positive experience you had before with Carbonda?
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Carbonazza,
nice to hear that you were riding 6000 m uphill; so these bikes are good also to climb. I am waiting for haideli AM831, FM1166 was another option on my list. At the end I opted for the new AM831.
Do you lean towards FM1166 just for the positive experience you had before with Carbonda?
It is my exclusive frame shop yes.
They just stopped hardtails, so I'm trying to find a good seller/builder.
ligthbicycle is where I get the wheels.
Loyalty and volume build mutual trust and make communication easier with an even better service than usual.
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Updated as now solved, I tried a spare derailleur hanger and it screw in freely now.
Bit of an odd one has anyone had any issues when installing the rear wheel axle?
The axle I bought is to the specification in the above post, so it does fit.
However when inserting the axle it does not screw in easily at all to the derailleur hanger. If you loosen the derailleur hanger you can tighten the axle up, but then if you tighten the hanger down it is difficult to loosen the axle at all, or re insert.
Taking the hanger off the axle tightens smoothly and easily into the hanger no issue.
It is as though the hanger does not sit flat in the drop out pushing the hanger out a little. Not sure whether to sand the drop out slightly.
Anyone had the same experience?
Probably just me.
Cheers
Gotta have one of these:
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Ride Impressions
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-Hasn't cracked on me yet (have taken it off some kickers, drops, some tech, maybe a crash or two)
-Have hit my cranks a couple times (175mm)
-No noticeable pedal bob, maybe after a long ride when the shock was hot
Are you riding at Palos? I’ve put in 600 miles there so far. Pedal strikes are def common and I wish I’d gone with a shorter crank.
I cracked my seat stay on F Zone on that hunk of concrete that is on the b line of one of those drops.
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Are you riding at Palos? I’ve put in 600 miles there so far. Pedal strikes are def common and I wish I’d gone with a shorter crank.
I cracked my seat stay on F Zone on that hunk of concrete that is on the b line of one of those drops.
Yeah Palos is my home track, I do all the "standard" trails, features and jumps often during the week as Cross Training. I've only ventured to the XX & XX Ext. a few times since building the bike.
The carryover 175mm cranks were less of an issue on my Cann. Trail(BB height of 308mm). Maybe I should upgrade to some sweet Raceface alloys or should I get a power meter? Decisions Decisions.
Not sure which trail is F Zone.
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Hey guys, after reading plenty of you positive posts about this being a great XC/marathong racer I bit the bullet and ordered a frame
just took delivery of a superlight FM936 (XL matt black)
It weighs in at around 2.15kg which I was a bit surprised at(though did have all spacers other than rear axel in place), has anyone else weighed their carbon frame?
My other question is fitment of the headset bearings,
https://imgur.com/a/PpyGDTy
That is as flush as I can get it, and is not a tight fitment at all i.e. will fall out under its own weight - not like any pressfit bearing I have used before!
ALso this is the first time I have every ridden or built a FS bike, is there a standard bushing i need for the rear shock, I bought a rockshox monarch RT3 - 38.5x165
appreciate any response
Cheers
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just took delivery of a superlight FM936 (XL matt black)
It weighs in at around 2.15kg which I was a bit surprised at(though did have all spacers other than rear axel in place), has anyone else weighed their carbon frame?
My standard with a Deluxe RT3 weighed in at 2.584kG.
ALso this is the first time I have every ridden or built a FS bike, is there a standard bushing i need for the rear shock, I bought a rockshox monarch RT3 - 38.5x165
You should really read all of this thread to find details but I'll make it easy. You need a 22.2mm x 8mm for the top eyelet. Doesn't matter the brand.
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just took delivery of a superlight FM936 (XL matt black)
It weighs in at around 2.15kg which I was a bit surprised at(though did have all spacers other than rear axel in place), has anyone else weighed their carbon frame?
My other question is fitment of the headset bearings,
https://imgur.com/a/PpyGDTy
That is as flush as I can get it, and is not a tight fitment at all i.e. will fall out under its own weight - not like any pressfit bearing I have used before!
appreciate any response
Cheers
My XL SL was 2012g with axle and frame/shock spacer removed. I might have removed the derailleur hanger too.
The head set isn’t press fit. The head tube has angular contact with the headset creating the tension you need.
How tall are you and what is your inseam measurement? What is your current bike and size?
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My XL SL was 2012g with axle and frame/shock spacer removed. I might have removed the derailleur hanger too.
The head set isn’t press fit. The head tube has angular contact with the headset creating the tension you need.
How tall are you and what is your inseam measurement? What is your current bike and size?
Ok so sounds about right then frame weight
I ride an old school cube reaction GTC 26er carbon 2013 - its a bit long in the tooth, but has served me well as an XC whip
I'm 193cm, not sure on inseam tbh though I take an 33" trouser leg
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Not sure if I can include this here or not! I was looking to buy an FM936 but then this barely used Vitus came up on eBay at a great price. I added some of my carbon parts (ElitaOne post, Romin Pro, Deda bar, Uno stem) plus set up my Conti tyres (2.4 X Cross RaceSport & 2.2 Race King Protection) tubeless. Have since removed the lock outs as I never used them. My old XTR pedals blew up on a test ride so awaiting a Zeray set and also a Fovno Ghost. Even as it stands the bike is 11.1kg for a size small which I think is pretty great for a £1,500 buy!
It rides amazingly. Replacing a hardtail Boardman Pro 29er it is much more confident but still playful efficient feeling. I thought it might be like a tank with a longer wheelbase (even moving from a medium Boardman to a small FM936 it is longer), but this is not the case.
I even think the paint looks pretty good!
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Not sure if I can include this here or not! I was looking to buy an FM936 but then this barely used Vitus came up on eBay at a great price. I added some of my carbon parts (ElitaOne post, Romin Pro, Deda bar, Uno stem) plus set up my Conti tyres (2.4 X Cross RaceSport & 2.2 Race King Protection) tubeless. Have since removed the lock outs as I never used them. My old XTR pedals blew up on a test ride so awaiting a Zeray set and also a Fovno Ghost. Even as it stands the bike is 11.1kg for a size small which I think is pretty great for a £1,500 buy!
It rides amazingly. Replacing a hardtail Boardman Pro 29er it is much more confident but still playful efficient feeling. I thought it might be like a tank with a longer wheelbase (even moving from a medium Boardman to a small FM936 it is longer), but this is not the case.
I even think the paint looks pretty good!
That's an unreal price! wow! I'm very impressed by the weight, my L with carbon wheels, Full XT, no lockout is 11.something ! It's a great bike enjoy. One thing I'd like to see is CRC/Wiggle put the replacement pivot parts online because I need a new bottom sex bolt!
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I guess there were a couple of other light parts - ESI grips, Ashima rotors, Exustar expander / top cap plus it's the SL version in size small. ..
I was going to bin the wheels as I miss my 54t Ztto ratchet - but these wide 29mm DT Swiss rims are actually quite nice. Will keep them for a bit before taking the plunge for some Chiner carbon.
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It came fitted to the bike as standard, it's a Oneloc. Can't say I used or liked it, 150 grams doing nothing but cluttering up my handlebar...
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Hi All,
So looks like I have made a mistake with the shock I have bought
I didn't realise the lower mount was for a non trunnion based shock!
Having bought a monarch RT3 (see attached)
Having never owned a FS bike, I'm learning quickly there are a lot of proprietary options!! made more of a headache given the shortage of mid end equipment at retailers
Can anyone advise on if a trunnion adaptor exists, or has drawn up the design to have machined?
Many thanks
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Hi All,
So looks like I have made a mistake with the shock I have bought
I didn't realise the lower mount was for a non trunnion based shock!
Having bought a monarch RT3 (see attached)
Having never owned a FS bike, I'm learning quickly there are a lot of proprietary options!! made more of a headache given the shortage of mid end equipment at retailers
Can anyone advise on if a trunnion adaptor exists, or has drawn up the design to have machined?
Many thanks
Your shock is not a trunnion shock and the FM936 does not use proprietary mounting. Adaptors exist but you would need to verify the length is compatible, I don't know if it's a direct equivalent with the adaptor installed. Something like this: https://www.dirtlabs.com/products/copy-of-trek-trunnion-mount-adapter-kit
There are other/cheaper options, just first that came up in a search.
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OK thanks for the response, apologies you are right, I have got it back to front.
I needed a trunnion mount shock, and have mistakenly ordered a standard mount.
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Was going to order a S3 but I think I will end up with the FM936 as they have a Shock in stock, been reading the thread and you make some interest remarks on the frame. I think you are close to 1.8M and went with the M correct? I might ride a lot of gravel/dirt road how does this bike feel at top pedaling compared to a marathon bike? Also any tips on the build? I plan to go cheap either SLX or Sram NX but with Shimano brakes.
thanks
I did participate to the Grand Rallye VTT Transverdon in France with my FM-936.
80 riders, 5 days, moving camping, 16 descents, 6000m climbing and 8000 descending.
Here's my FM-936 put on steroid for the occasion, 36mm rims, Magic Mary in front and Hans Dampf in the back( wanted Maxxis like everyone else, but didn't find in stock ).
203mm/180mm disc rotors.
(https://i.imgur.com/Xo9wUpy.jpg)
The bike and myself survived!
It was clearly out of our league, but I improved day by day.
I lost one pivot screw, a zip kept the pivot in place. I should have lock threaded them all...
Broke my GPS mount at the first crash( crashed 3x ).
And bent the hanger twice and put it back straight.
So if someone doubt over the solidity of this frame, don't !
I'm afraid I will need a FM1166 for the future ::)
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Was going to order a S3 but I think I will end up with the FM936 as they have a Shock in stock, been reading the thread and you make some interest remarks on the frame. I think you are close to 1.8M and went with the M correct? I might ride a lot of gravel/dirt road how does this bike feel at top pedaling compared to a marathon bike? Also any tips on the build? I plan to go cheap either SLX or Sram NX but with Shimano brakes...
I'm 1,78m, but 89cm inseam. Chances are you have shorter legs(with longer torso), so you might consider an L too.
My stem is 65mm integrated with the bar, and the seatpost is straight.
I bought this bike as a marathon bike that means for me, relatively mild mountain biking but long.
It works well for that, when doing 70 - 100km rides, I don't feel as destroyed as I was on my hardtail.
And after a week of MTB, I have a hard time to appreciate again the roughness of my road or gravel bikes.
I've done a few cheaper builds mainly with these components:
RockShox Judy, the recent SLX or XT brakes, SRAM GX mechanical group, bitex wheelset, Stylo 6K Eagle crankset, and aliexpress: elita seatpost, uno stem, og-evkin bar, EC-90 saddles, ZERAY pedals...
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Have to say those Zeray pedals are complete junk: they look good and are light, but the sleeve DU bearings are not good enough. Back to Shimano for me.
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I'm 1,78m, but 89cm inseam. Chances are you have shorter legs(with longer torso), so you might consider an L too.
My stem is 65mm integrated with the bar, and the seatpost is straight.
I bought this bike as a marathon bike that means for me, relatively mild mountain biking but long.
It works well for that, when doing 70 - 100km rides, I don't feel as destroyed as I was on my hardtail.
And after a week of MTB, I have a hard time to appreciate again the roughness of my road or gravel bikes.
I've done a few cheaper builds mainly with these components:
RockShox Judy, the recent SLX or XT brakes, SRAM GX mechanical group, bitex wheelset, Stylo 6K Eagle crankset, and aliexpress: elita seatpost, uno stem, og-evkin bar, EC-90 saddles, ZERAY pedals...
Went with the M :D lol after testing a Spark (not the RC) I thought the L was too big for me, the M felt more inside the bike. So I used that feeling to compare the geometry at Geomterygeeks and I found that the Carbonda size medium has a longer reach than the Spark in size large. (Spark Size L 470MM vs Carbonda M 475MM)
As for the build I went with SLX, was having a hard time finding GX, for the Fork I found a relatively cheap SID and for wheels I will probably go with Elitewheels carbon.
Elita Seatpost is a dropper post? Will have a look at them thanks
https://geometrygeeks.bike/
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I've been riding FM936 for over a year.
I am generally satisfied with my bike, but I am not happy with the single drink bottle installation.
So, I added two bottles using parts from LYNE COMPONENTS.
https://www.on-lynecomponents.com/collections/the-holy-rail/products/holy-rail-dual-cage-kit
This frame size is M and it can insert two 550ml FLY bottles. I think this is effective for marathon competition.
Just for your reference.
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...but I am not happy with the single drink bottle installation...
Did you see the picture a few post above?
It is another option. The ZTTO double bottle mount.
Light and inexpensive.
It keeps well the bottles, even on rough tracks.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975689555.html
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Did you see the picture a few post above?
It is another option. The ZTTO double bottle mount.
Light and inexpensive.
It keeps well the bottles, even on rough tracks.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32975689555.html
Thank you carbonazza-san,
I already have this part, but I have some problems at field.
It is very cheap and reliable.
When I lower the saddle on the dropper seat post, my knees interfere with the bottle (this depends on the person), and the bottle gets dirty from the dirt rolling up from the ground.
The problem with LYNE is that it's expensive (LOL)
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I also ordered a frame this week! The Netherlands will soon have another carbonda.
It's a normal XL in the color RAL5026 metallic with a BSA bracket. And the best part is it is in stock :)!
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When I lower the saddle on the dropper seat post, my knees interfere with the bottle (this depends on the person), and the bottle gets dirty from the dirt rolling up from the ground.
The problem with LYNE is that it's expensive (LOL)
Yeah, I noticed some interference when I pedal seated with the dropper lowered, but it doesn't happen often.
The LYNE seems from the picture to accommodate only small bottles.
I wanted to try 3D printing some similar mount as LYNE(someone tried it here if I remember well), but dropped it when I saw the ZTTO option.
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Long time lurker, first time poster. I’ve been looking at the NS synonym for a while, than stumbled across the Vitus. Now I’m here. I’m trying decide which 936 to get. What’s the difference between the super light and normal frame, besides the weight difference. I’m 6’1 205 lbs. I ride pretty aggressively but ant something to crush some climbs and cover lots of ground. I have a couple other trail and enduro bikes and I’m in love with the steeper seat angles (I have a long inseam) and that’s what drew me to the 936 or possibly the 909. Any and all info would be awesome!! Thanks in advance
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I'm the same size on an SL. No issues over 6 months of riding but I don't beat on it. It's a great marathon type bike that climbs most everything better than my old hardtail.
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Not sure if I can include this here or not! I was looking to buy an FM936 but then this barely used Vitus came up on eBay at a great price. I added some of my carbon parts (ElitaOne post, Romin Pro, Deda bar, Uno stem) plus set up my Conti tyres (2.4 X Cross RaceSport & 2.2 Race King Protection) tubeless. Have since removed the lock outs as I never used them. My old XTR pedals blew up on a test ride so awaiting a Zeray set and also a Fovno Ghost. Even as it stands the bike is 11.1kg for a size small which I think is pretty great for a £1,500 buy!
It rides amazingly. Replacing a hardtail Boardman Pro 29er it is much more confident but still playful efficient feeling. I thought it might be like a tank with a longer wheelbase (even moving from a medium Boardman to a small FM936 it is longer), but this is not the case.
I even think the paint looks pretty good!
Nice bike! I've been lurking for a while now absorbing all of this great information. Can I ask how tall you are? I'm trying to decide whether I should buy a medium or small.
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Does anybody have pictured a full and level side view of a small FM936 completed build. Looking through all of these pages it's been hard to find a good shot of what a small one of these bikes really looks like compared to a medium. I am 168cm and it seems I should be on a small according to the NS website size chart.
I already have almost all of my parts and will be running full X01 AXS--adding the seatpost once I determine the correct drop. I just need to make the decision of which size frame it's a purchase and then pick my stem to fit. Hoping for a light clean build with zero clutter cockpit and simplicity of maintenance.
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Also been lurking a while and was considering ordering a frame to build up using parts off my hardtail. Then the Vitus came up for sale and did the maths meaning it made more sense to buy the Vitus.
Only ridden around the block but impressed and feels like an enduro bike position. The large I ordered was 12.7kg as it arrived with tubes and the included padals. I then fitted my Hunt xc race rims and tubeless tyres taking that down to 12.03kg. Could change the cockpit, cassette, crank and fit a race day damper for less weight. Sort of wish I went with the xt build over the slx/deore I have now but some bits will get upgraded for lighter versions as they wear out.
Need a light dropper post, change the lockout to a TwistLoc and have fantasies about a sid 35 ultimate but think it'd invalidate the Vitus warranty.
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Also been lurking a while and was considering ordering a frame to build up using parts off my hardtail. Then the Vitus came up for sale and did the maths meaning it made more sense to buy the Vitus.
Only ridden around the block but impressed and feels like an enduro bike position. The large I ordered was 12.7kg as it arrived with tubes and the included padals. I then fitted my Hunt xc race rims and tubeless tyres taking that down to 12.03kg. Could change the cockpit, cassette, crank and fit a race day damper for less weight. Sort of wish I went with the xt build over the slx/deore I have now but some bits will get upgraded for lighter versions as they wear out.
Need a light dropper post, change the lockout to a TwistLoc and have fantasies about a sid 35 ultimate but think it'd invalidate the Vitus warranty.
At least these bikes are available right now. I was originally looking for a Specialized Epic Evo or Transition Spur--but nobody had any bikes or frames in stock. Now I actually feel fortunate that I missed out on those and came across this long thread. This is a much better deal for a short travel trail bike with this type of geometry. At this point, having the choice to actually get my hands on a full bike before 2022, or to be able to purchase the frame so inexpensively and customize it to my taste is a fantastic turn of events.
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Received a response from Wing who gave me the option of a BSA73 bottom bracket. I requested a quote for the normal, small frame with the BSA73 and custom paint. It looks like paint will take an extra 2 to 4 weeks.
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Nice bike! I've been lurking for a while now absorbing all of this great information. Can I ask how tall you are? I'm trying to decide whether I should buy a medium or small.
I am 5’9”. It seemed odd going for a size small but after spending some time on GeometryGeeks it was clear that the reach seated was still going to be a nose longer on a small than my old medium Boardman.
I have done a few more miles on the bike. I don’t regret taking off the Oneloc at all. I do wish it was the XT version, but this was all that was available and no doubt I’ll upgrade in due course.
The frame is free from rattles, well finished and has taken some time to having the front wheel waaaay out forward, even on the size small. I like it a lot and wouldn’t want to go back to a hardtail.
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I am 5’9”. It seemed odd going for a size small but after spending some time on GeometryGeeks it was clear that the reach seated was still going to be a nose longer on a small than my old medium Boardman.
I have done a few more miles on the bike. I don’t regret taking off the Oneloc at all. I do wish it was the XT version, but this was all that was available and no doubt I’ll upgrade in due course.
The frame is free from rattles, well finished and has taken some time to having the front wheel waaaay out forward, even on the size small. I like it a lot and wouldn’t want to go back to a hardtail.
Thanks for the response. That makes me feel like I made the correct choice and picking the small frame at my height and standover. I actually made my purchase this morning. I already have almost all of my parts so I'm playing the waiting game for now. I can't wait to see how the paint job turns out then how it rides on the trail once it's built up.
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Hi, guys!
Can anybody say me what kind of bearings are installed in this frame? In drawings from Carbonda i see only 6901 at lower pivot. Are other pivots just slide bushings?
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I believe these are the frame bearings
4x 6900VRS rocker pivots
2x 6901VRS main/lower pivot
2x 6801 in trunnion mount
22.2mm x 8mm upper shock bushing
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What the bearings are pressed into: metal inserts or bare carbon?
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I've only replaced the main rocker pivot bearings (chasing a creak that ended up being not frame related), but those were pressed into a metal insert in the frame.
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Wing from Carbonda just answered me that all bearings pressed into metal inserts.
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Hi everyone,
can someone tell me the exact colour code of that green. Looks inspired by Revel Ranger bikes.
I found Pantone #004225 looks quite similar.
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I'm looking to buy an m9000 crankset to drop some more weight and to shorten the cranks to 170 or 165 from 175mm.
Whats the m9020 like for chainring clearance as I was thinking of using a 32 or 34 with it? Would ideally like an m9000 but think the q factor may be narrow for the frame?
Cheers,
David
(https://i.imgur.com/gBUVdwU.jpg)
Put the bike together last night (although rear brake caliper mount bolts aren't threading in), but still have a lot of little stuff to take care of. Pretty aggressive looking for an XC bike IMO.
25lbs on the bathroom scale with pedals (Pinkbike article had the $6k EUR build at just over 27lbs without pedals), but certainly not a weight weenie build and didn't really make any compromises for weight. May consider upgrading to Step Cast fork, lighter Light Bicycle wheel build, and possibly a OneUp V2 170mm dropper.
Hoping to race the first Canada Cup XCO event at the end of March, but don't think I'll be able to take it for a test ride soon.
Fox Float 34 Performance Elite 120mm fork
Fox Float DPS Evol Performance 16x142.5 shock
Light Bicycle 29C07 30mm ID carbon rims on DT Swiss 350S hubs
Maxxis Forekaster EXO 2.35/Maxxis Ikon EXO 2.35 (putting Aspen 2.25 on)
Formula Cura brakes with 160mm rotors
OneUp V1 150mm dropper post with V2 metal remote
Shimano M9020 XTR crankset (polished) with Stages power meter
OneUp 30T oval chainring
Shimano M9000 XTR shifter
Shimano M8000 XT derailleur
e13 TRSr 9-46t cassette
SRAM X1 chain
Exustar E-PM215Ti pedals
Cane Creek 40 headset
Shimano XTR bottom bracket
Wren stem 50mm (may swap for Kalloy 40mm)
Chromag Cutlass carbon bars
Chromag Squarewave grips
Chinese saddle (new carbon saddle in the mail)
Chinese carbon seatclamp post
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Yeah, I noticed some interference when I pedal seated with the dropper lowered, but it doesn't happen often.
The LYNE seems from the picture to accommodate only small bottles.
I wanted to try 3D printing some similar mount as LYNE(someone tried it here if I remember well), but dropped it when I saw the ZTTO option.
I have the ZTTO double bottle holder and love it. I'm on an XL frame and don't have any interference, but I could see there being potential issues with a smaller frame. I also had problems with dirt getting in my bottles, but I 3D printed caps and that solved the problem
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Off.roadcc have done a Vitus Rapide into and say they are releasing a test of it soon.
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Hi everyone,
can someone tell me the exact colour code of that green. Looks inspired by Revel Ranger bikes.
I found Pantone #004225 looks quite similar.
Carbonda steered me to this RAL color chart. The three greens that look like possibilities to me are the Turquoise Green, Mint Green, and Pearl Green.
https://www.ralcolor.com/
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I have the ZTTO double bottle holder and love it. I'm on an XL frame and don't have any interference, but I could see there being potential issues with a smaller frame. I also had problems with dirt getting in my bottles, but I 3D printed caps and that solved the problem
If you like drilling, dremelling and so, you can create your own "lyne" double bottle mount. On a medium frame i can carry two 750ml bottle.
It's a matter of millimeters but it works.
Two https://www.bike-onlineshop.de/Accessories/Bottles-Hydration/GIANT-Bottle-Cage-GATEWAY-4MM-SILVER.htm?shop=bike_en&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=GIA490000031&p=61 were killed during process.
This is something i made, the elite cage is a not thigh enough so the bottle is moving a bit up and down but i never lost it.
If my prototype can give ideas...
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Quick update on the 83mm axle through bolt. Mine started to squeak again and I will shorten it to 80mm using a fork steerer tube vice and hack saw.
755 miles.
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I measured 81mm on this bolt.
After 3000 Kilometer and 40000 Meter altitude difference there is no squeak.
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Does anybody have pictured a full and level side view of a small FM936 completed build...
Here is one
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I have the ZTTO double bottle holder and love it. I'm on an XL frame and don't have any interference, but I could see there being potential issues with a smaller frame. I also had problems with dirt getting in my bottles, but I 3D printed caps and that solved the problem
I did an enduro week early in the summer, and just finished the Swiss Epic with it.
On some bumpy segments, there were bottles all around, but I kept mines !
There is some interference with my M size, when going "en danseuse" with ample movements or sprinting, which I don't do often.
And never when sitting.
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Here is one
Thanks! That's very helpful for visual reference. In fact, I have used this pint job as an inspirational template for my own very slightly modified version. I'll be sure to post pics after receiving the frame and again when the build is complete.
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I measured 81mm on this bolt.
After 3000 Kilometer and 40000 Meter altitude difference there is no squeak.
Yeah, I took off about 1.5mm so my bolt is still closer to 82mm.
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Hello, I've been following along on this forum for quite a while to pick up all kinds of tips and experiences (thanks to all of you)... then decided to make my first bike build ever.
After a long time of collecting parts, I finished my build last week and in the meantime made a first ride (in the flatlands of flanders :D )...
It's no comparison to my 11 year old 26" Rockrider hardtail ;D .
It is a size M frame (N not SL), Elite wheels, Sram GX groupset and Marzocchi fork (was the only fork available and within my budget).
Maybe not easy to see in the picture but the colors are candy red and silver metallic.
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Hello, I've been following along on this forum for quite a while to pick up all kinds of tips and experiences (thanks to all of you)... then decided to make my first bike build ever.
After a long time of collecting parts, I finished my build last week and in the meantime made a first ride (in the flatlands of flanders :D )...
It's no comparison to my 11 year old 26" Rockrider hardtail ;D .
It is a size M frame (N not SL), Elite wheels, Sram GX groupset and Marzocchi fork (was the only fork available and within my budget).
Maybe not easy to see in the picture but the colors are candy red and silver metallic.
Attached my list of used components/weight/supplier.
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Here is one
That is a really cool paint job.
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Hey guys,
thinking of pulling the trigger on 2 bikes. One is for my girlfriend - she has a 2019 Cube Sting WS (120mm overall travel) and uses it for light trails (S2 max) and some blue lines in bikeparks (She doenst jump). Would you say the 936 suits her?! (She is 162cm with inner leg length of 76cm - Id suggest she takes an S?)
What budget-solid choice would you recomment for shocks?
Last thing: Are there any pics of the chameleon style colors?! Saw some in a german forum as samples on a tube and want to see them for real...
Thanks
man1ac
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Maybe not easy to see in the picture but the colors are candy red and silver metallic.
Somewhere (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg25479.html#msg25479) i know that color ;) Those silver decals fit well with it!
Are saddle position and spacer turret your actual riding position?
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Hi everyone,
can someone tell me the exact colour code of that green. Looks inspired by Revel Ranger bikes.
I found Pantone #004225 looks quite similar.
That is my bike!
I actually sent him a picture of the glossy part of the revel ranger.
He never specified the RAL number. Sorry I am not more help.
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Somewhere (http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg25479.html#msg25479) i know that color ;) Those silver decals fit well with it!
Are saddle position and spacer turret your actual riding position?
Yip, that's where I got the inspiration for the color (sorry/not ;D ). My saddle is in the right position. Handlebars will be lower, but since it was my first bike build I just put in the complete spacers set (I was afraid I would make the fork tube too short).
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(https://scontent-iev1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/241359101_4306044566109718_1444399041681634258_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=HfPt1huiuR0AX-bZqmD&tn=fUVtNNFOdWDXkdQ5&_nc_ht=scontent-iev1-1.xx&oh=c8ee9e3725a0692b652a4e15d7c369b9&oe=6165E21E)
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(https://scontent-iev1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/241359101_4306044566109718_1444399041681634258_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=HfPt1huiuR0AX-bZqmD&tn=fUVtNNFOdWDXkdQ5&_nc_ht=scontent-iev1-1.xx&oh=c8ee9e3725a0692b652a4e15d7c369b9&oe=6165E21E)
nice bike, can you share the size and your height?, still trying to decide between S/M
Thanks,
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Really liking the look of these frames, though sizing is a bit of a dilemma. Not one to mesh well with the long, low, slack brigade, but most other frames are either all that, or fairly old school.
The FM936 looks to be a decent compromise between the 64degree slack sleds, and something more leaning toward xc.
At 6'2 with short legs I'm finding most of the time I'm between L and Xl sizes, with most XL's feeling a little tall.
Current bike is old school. 445mm reach, 630 ish ETT, on a 68.5 HA/73.5 SA 29er, running a 90mm stem. I would run 100mm on it for reach to the bar, but it feels a bit floppy on a 68deg HA.
I run my seat at 775mm centre BB to top of saddle, so quite short legs for my height.
looking at the 540mm seat tube length on the XL, doesn't seem to leave much for a dropper, should I feel the urge.
the 500mm reach on the L seems like plenty to me. I did own a XL On One Scandal for a while, with a 480mm reach and a 65deg HA it still felt a bit small with a 50mm stem, and handled horribly with anything longer on it.
looking at the reach figures, I can get somewhere in the right saddle to bar length with a large and a 60mm stem. so I'm thinking that a Large will be OK for me. Do these frames feel as long as the numbers suggest? large would certainly give me more seatpost space.
thanks
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How is the stiffness of the frame? I have an M08, l think thats what it is, and its pretty flexy. Im looking at the standard frame in hopes it will be stiffer then the SL.
Also, 490 seat tube length?? Come on.. i would try a large but thats crazy.
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Strange crack, where derailleur hanger meets angle.
(https://sun9-46.userapi.com/impg/jo6AT-SZqwD3Wb-Cs62IROQ6kKz-c3nLaxCxog/7DPkMMSiXZk.jpg?size=1422x1172&quality=96&sign=141608a2d45d0dfa77ce893d6a807c7e&type=album)
May be crack, may be not. Curved line from the treaded dropout insert.
(https://sun9-50.userapi.com/impg/tSXAPhUwaYAmD4F5xAz9iKgn48MAScLOP2eaCg/iWl1aH-TfsE.jpg?size=1494x1399&quality=96&sign=ff025d28b352ec91ec52193d71a45124&type=album)
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How is the stiffness of the frame? I have an M08, l think thats what it is, and its pretty flexy. Im looking at the standard frame in hopes it will be stiffer then the SL.
Also, 490 seat tube length?? Come on.. i would try a large but thats crazy.
It's very flexy. But I think this helps in flat turns on roots and soft soil.
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Here's my "rocket".
Finalized early summer and spent approx 400km on it since then.
I'm more than happy about it's performance this far.
Fast, agile and fun riding bike.
The only thing I don't like is the mounting of head set bearing directly in the carbon fiber.
It was a little hard to get it correct.
Other wise rock solid and quite with no problems.
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Awesome color !!! :) Do you have the color code ?
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Hey guys, how is your experience with noises on this bike while riding, how quiet it is? ( seen that 180mm bolt issue )
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Strange crack, where derailleur hanger meets angle.
Did you contact Carbonda ?
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Hey guys, how is your experience with noises on this bike while riding, how quiet it is? ( seen that 180mm bolt issue )
I don't notice any noise but the freewheel.
What potential noises would bother you ?
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Hey guys, how is your experience with noises on this bike while riding, how quiet it is? ( seen that 180mm bolt issue )
The only recommendation I'd give is to get those neoprene sleeves for the cable housing in the frame - a little bit of rattle from those otherwise.
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Just about any sounds that shouldn’t be there.
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Mine is quiet. Didn't wrap the cables and don't notice them knocking around. Actually intended to put pool noodle chunks by the headtube and BB, but forgot to do it. I had a knock in my BB when it loosened over time, but tightening it up took care of it.
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New owner here, love the frame, I'll post some thoughts after a couple more rides, just got a few initial questions I couldn't find answers to on here:
1) what are people doing to plug up the cable holes on top of the chain stays? Or is it easy to just wash out when mud gets down in there?
2) supplied hanger doesn't seem to work with my slx 12 speed, only way I can access the smallest cog is to add a fat washer to locate the derailleur further outboard. Yes I checked hanger is straight, and limit screw all the way out. Anyone else find this?
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New owner here, love the frame, I'll post some thoughts after a couple more rides, just got a few initial questions I couldn't find answers to on here:
1) what are people doing to plug up the cable holes on top of the chain stays? Or is it easy to just wash out when mud gets down in there?
2) supplied hanger doesn't seem to work with my slx 12 speed, only way I can access the smallest cog is to add a fat washer to locate the derailleur further outboard. Yes I checked hanger is straight, and limit screw all the way out. Anyone else find this?
1) Mine are open but you can't really ride when it's wet here so not really an issue. They do collect water when I wash the bike but I just lift the bike by the rear triangle and they drain right out.
2) Have you checked that the hanger is not bent? I haven't seen anyone else comment with that issue and plenty are using 12speed Shimano
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Been eyeing this forum and frame for awhile. Curious if anyone has purchased the xfusion rear shock mentioned as an option from Carbonda. Price? Model? How does it perform? I'm guessing it's the standard 165x40? Thanks!
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New owner here, love the frame, I'll post some thoughts after a couple more rides, just got a few initial questions I couldn't find answers to on here:
1) what are people doing to plug up the cable holes on top of the chain stays? Or is it easy to just wash out when mud gets down in there?
2) supplied hanger doesn't seem to work with my slx 12 speed, only way I can access the smallest cog is to add a fat washer to locate the derailleur further outboard. Yes I checked hanger is straight, and limit screw all the way out. Anyone else find this?
Weird. I use XT 12s and it works fine. Is it possible your hub is offset or you have cassette spacers/washers on the freehub in that you should not have?
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Been eyeing this forum and frame for awhile. Curious if anyone has purchased the xfusion rear shock mentioned as an option from Carbonda. Price? Model? How does it perform? I'm guessing it's the standard 165x40? Thanks!
Bought a frame a week or so ago, was told that the x-fusion shock was no longer in stock.
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New owner here, love the frame, I'll post some thoughts after a couple more rides, just got a few initial questions I couldn't find answers to on here:
1) what are people doing to plug up the cable holes on top of the chain stays? Or is it easy to just wash out when mud gets down in there?
2) supplied hanger doesn't seem to work with my slx 12 speed, only way I can access the smallest cog is to add a fat washer to locate the derailleur further outboard. Yes I checked hanger is straight, and limit screw all the way out. Anyone else find this?
No problems with my XTR derailleur. I think I have an extra hanger if you want to try it.
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New owner here, love the frame, I'll post some thoughts after a couple more rides, just got a few initial questions I couldn't find answers to on here:
1) what are people doing to plug up the cable holes on top of the chain stays? Or is it easy to just wash out when mud gets down in there?
2) supplied hanger doesn't seem to work with my slx 12 speed, only way I can access the smallest cog is to add a fat washer to locate the derailleur further outboard. Yes I checked hanger is straight, and limit screw all the way out. Anyone else find this?
ok so ignore #2, in my haste to get on the trails I made a mistake when indexing, it actually works fine, doesn't need the washer.
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Other than a few grams what the difference between the light and super light frame?
I'm 5'9" and 200 lb's. I don't care if the super light frame is 200 grams lighter if it isn't as strong.
Pardon if this question had been asked before. I did query to see if it was answered and didn't find anything.
Thanks in advance for any answer....
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Other than a few grams what the difference between the light and super light frame?
I'm 5'9" and 200 lb's. I don't care if the super light frame is 200 grams lighter if it isn't as strong.
Pardon if this question had been asked before. I did query to see if it was answered and didn't find anything.
Thanks in advance for any answer....
That's the only difference. A little different carbon, prob T800 on the superlight vs T700 on the standard I'd guess.
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One more question reference fork offset.
Which fork offset would be best for this bike in size medium 44 or 51?
Thanks in advance for the anticipated reply....
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Other than a few grams what the difference between the light and super light frame?
I'm 5'9" and 200 lb's. I don't care if the super light frame is 200 grams lighter if it isn't as strong.
Pardon if this question had been asked before. I did query to see if it was answered and didn't find anything.
Thanks in advance for any answer....
That's the only difference. A little different carbon, prob T800 on the superlight vs T700 on the standard I'd guess.
I asked Carbonda when I bought mine in July 2020. Adam said the superlight uses a different layer construction and different materials. They have the same strength.
It's been over a year since I bought mine, but a couple people had defects with the non-superlight frame. One in the headset mount and another in the rear shock mount, iirc.
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mine arrived yesterday. Bang on 2 weeks from postage notification to my doorstep in Scotland. Unboxed it this morning at it looks great.
heard others comment about the shock hardware being a bit rubbish. The upper steel pin looks solid enough, the trunnion bolts look OK too. guess the proof will be when I bolt it all up.
Should I check the linkage pivots or are they generally OK? (I'll be checking torque anyway, so may undo and put a bit of pritt stick loctite (248) on them)
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nice bike, can you share the size and your height?, still trying to decide between S/M
I have a height of about 187-189 cm. The size of the frame is XL. I use stem 60mm. steerer tube about fork 217mm.
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Should I check the linkage pivots or are they generally OK?
Pour some thread locker, I didn't and lost one screw this summer.
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Short summary after five month with my Carbonda FM936:
4033 Kilometer
101093 Meter altitude difference
No issue
I am absolutely satisfied with this Bike :)
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Short summary after five month with my Carbonda FM936:
4033 Kilometer
101093 Meter altitude difference
No issue
I am absolutely satisfied with this Bike :)
my chainstay cracked after 3700 km and 42 km uphill :) I'm waiting for new ones under warranty.
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my chainstay cracked after 3700 km and 42 km uphill :) I'm waiting for new ones under warranty.
Do you jump, high drops or other funny things with the bike ? 8)
Good to know that Carbonda keep remaining behind their products.
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Do you jump, high drops or other funny things with the bike ? 8)
Good to know that Carbonda keep remaining behind their products.
just ride cross country
I saw the crack by accident, the frame did not show itself in any way, if I had not seen it I would have traveled further without knowing about it. I conclude that the frame has a huge margin of safety
but sometimes there is a marriage that carbond works out, which is great
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marriage
Those russians ;D It's defect
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Those russians ;D It's defect
What ?!? Marriage and defect are synonyms in Russian :o ... :D
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What ?!? Marriage and defect are synonyms in Russian :o ... :D
Literally one word lol
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my chainstay cracked after 3700 km and 42 km uphill :) I'm waiting for new ones under warranty.
Did you have to cut through the frame before they would agree to warranty?
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Did you have to cut through the frame before they would agree to warranty?
it was like this
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it was like this
That is pretty bloody good customer service right there. Just how long have you had the frame, time wise, not km's?
I spent months arguing with Felt over a cracked frame which they eventually denied. fortunately for me I'm Aussie so as soon as I mentioned Department of Fair Trading to Wiggle they offered me a choice of two different frames.
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That is pretty bloody good customer service right there. Just how long have you had the frame, time wise, not km's?
I spent months arguing with Felt over a cracked frame which they eventually denied. fortunately for me I'm Aussie so as soon as I mentioned Department of Fair Trading to Wiggle they offered me a choice of two different frames.
I ride this frame with November 2020
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Hi, Anyone use a 52mm chain line Shimano crankset (7100 or 8100) with a 32t ring on their frame? Is the clearance OK @ >3mm?
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Has anyone bent there upper shock mount? I did a search but could find anyone mentioning that. Its very slight so I'm hoping its just a bolt quality issue. All the other bolts in the linkage were torqued properly and no play at the bushing.
If anyone has I could use a link to what you replaced it with.
Thank you
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Has anyone bent there upper shock mount? I did a search but could find anyone mentioning that. Its very slight so I'm hoping its just a bolt quality issue. All the other bolts in the linkage were torqued properly and no play at the bushing.
If anyone has I could use a link to what you replaced it with.
Thank you
Yes, I also bent a little, I bought a new bolt on aliexpress and everything became fine. Unfortunately the original carbonda bolts are not of very good quality
this bolt, lenght 40mm https://aliexpress.ru/item/32346297012.html?spm=a2g39.orderlist.0.0.626d4aa6Epw2fK&_ga=2.238546816.1248168000.1635175814-2025224587.1629912215&_gac=1.48907732.1633550633.CjwKCAjwkvWKBhB4EiwA-GHjFh1f2ima6Yzra606rzp_VI4RPxiWXupqcG65UfpDAKXqSkqe_XHaIBoCtIkQAvD_BwE (https://aliexpress.ru/item/32346297012.html?spm=a2g39.orderlist.0.0.626d4aa6Epw2fK&_ga=2.238546816.1248168000.1635175814-2025224587.1629912215&_gac=1.48907732.1633550633.CjwKCAjwkvWKBhB4EiwA-GHjFh1f2ima6Yzra606rzp_VI4RPxiWXupqcG65UfpDAKXqSkqe_XHaIBoCtIkQAvD_BwE)
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Yes, there is a quality issue with that bolt. I know several FM936 riders whose upper shock bolts were bent, including myself.
Replaced it with this one (https://titaniumplanet.com/de/federung/27-283-dampferachsen-aus-titan.html#/3-farbe-titan/28-lange-40_mm) (40 mm).
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I am 181cm and 81cm inseam.
What size do you think? Background: road and a bit XC races
Very primitive calcs:
Top-tube thoughts:
On my old cannondale flash 29er L-size: 62cm top-tube and ~10cm stem + -2cm offset, so, total saddle-handlebar is ~74cm
FM936 can have the same 74cm on M (61cm TT) + 2cm off + 11cm stem or L (64cm TT) + 2cm off + 8cm stem
Reach thoughts:
Cannondale has 42.5cm reach, so looks like FM936 is very long M is 47.5cm and L is 50cm.
Probably seat-tube angle eats about ~3cm (maybe I am wrong here) and if I remove seatback offset another 2cm, total 5 => 42.5cm or 45cm
Sounds like I have to go for M with long stem, but absolutely not sure, because I am non experienced technical XC racer
Thank you for any advice
--added--
Looks like I calculated tt wrong and fixed it, but still not sure which is better
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I am 181cm and 81cm inseam.
What size do you think? Background: road and a bit XC races
Very primitive calcs:
Top-tube thoughts:
On my old cannondale flash 29er L-size: 62cm top-tube and ~10cm stem, so, total saddle-handlebar it is ~72cm
FM936 can have the same 72cm on M (61cm) + 11cm stem or L + 8cm stem
Reach thoughts:
Cannondale has 42.5cm reach, so looks like FM936 is very long M is 47.5cm and L is 50cm.
Probably seat-tube angle eats about ~3cm (maybe I am wrong here) and if I remove seatback offset another 2cm, total 5 => 42.5cm or 45cm
Sounds like I have to go for M with long stem, but absolutely not sure, because I am non experienced technical XC racer
Thank you for any advice
--added--
Looks like I calculated tt wrong and fixed it, but still not sure which is better
I'm 178cm / 89cm and ride an M with a 65mm stem.
I think a L would have been good too, so probably good for your longer torso, and more in the spirit of the bike.
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If I summarize all the basic math:
1) most of the droppers does not have offset => saddle moves forward even a bit more
2) The main diff for the frame makes seat-angle and Saddle-BB distance is ~8cm diff from old geometry => it is the ~same diff like Road and TT bike saddle
^^^ all the things are the ~same on M and L frames, so the only important diff is Reach
I do not care about stack in terms of saddle-height - it is just 1.5cm diff. But in terms of handle-bar height, sometimes lower stack helps to lower the handlebar without slam it down too much.
And looks like the main diff is really only top-tube length, which is 61 or 64cm, and to compensate your saddle-handlebar distance all you need is stem which is 3cm longer or shorter. So, frame M+10cm stem = L+7cm stem or M+6cm = L+3cm. Looks simple - all I need is to decide stem length.
Small point that L frame adds 0.5cm _back_ to the saddle => to hold the same top-tube you should substract the 0.5cm from stem too.
If I go M => it is not very aggressive position compared to L, I can compensate it with stem, but, probably it is not idea on descend. and 3cm shorter wheelbase, which, probably makes it a bit more nimble, which is a plus for the long bike
If I go L => stem is shorter, and body position is a bit lower too, the only negative thing that stack increased, which prevents you from going lower with handlebar
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If I summarize all the basic math:
1) most of the droppers does not have offset => saddle moves forward even a bit more
2) The main diff for the frame makes seat-angle and Saddle-BB distance is ~8cm diff from old geometry => it is the ~same diff like Road and TT bike saddle
^^^ all the things are the ~same on M and L frames, so the only important diff is Reach
I do not care about stack in terms of saddle-height - it is just 1.5cm diff. But in terms of handle-bar height, sometimes lower stack helps to lower the handlebar without slam it down too much.
And looks like the main diff is really only top-tube length, which is 61 or 64cm, and to compensate your saddle-handlebar distance all you need is stem which is 3cm longer or shorter. So, frame M+10cm stem = L+7cm stem or M+6cm = L+3cm. Looks simple - all I need is to decide stem length.
Small point that L frame adds 0.5cm _back_ to the saddle => to hold the same top-tube you should substract the 0.5cm from stem too.
If I go M => it is not very aggressive position compared to L, I can compensate it with stem, but, probably it is not idea on descend. and 3cm shorter wheelbase, which, probably makes it a bit more nimble, which is a plus for the long bike
If I go L => stem is shorter, and body position is a bit lower too, the only negative thing that stack increased, which prevents you from going lower with handlebar
I have height 180, frame size L, stem 60mm
about the length of the stem. With a stem longer than 60mm, okay, 70mm oversteer becomes too strong, the bike tends to turn deeper into the turn and you have to steer the opposite way, not letting it go too far into the turn.
therefore, my advice for a height of 180 + cm is to take size L and stem of 50-70mm
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@ilyamaksimov, @carbonazza Thank you. I am going to L.
My calculations are here:
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Could someone recommend fork? Unfortunately I am far away from MTB to understand anything about it
RS/FOX. RS is cheaper, and I do not know if fox much better because it has 2x price
If RS, Do I need remote (for XC races)? I heard that Deluxe is fine for climbing without lock, but sidluxe is more DC shock that is why remote is necessary for uphill. Probably RT3 can solve it? What the f* is MegNeg? About SIDLuxe - not clear if trunnion has remote
My short list:
RockShox Deluxe RT3 Debon Air 165x42.5mm 268.9
RockShox SIDLuxe Ultimate RL Solo Air 285.71
RockShox Deluxe Ultimate RCT 286.9811939
Fox Suspension Float DPS Factory 3Pos-Adj SV 488.49
Fox Racing Shox Float DPS EVOL SV 3POS Factory Trunnion Rear Shock - 2022 Model 528.57
Fox Float DPS Kashima Factory Series 3Pos-Adj Trunnion Evol SV 569.5218394
Thank you,
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There was a recent video of Dylan Johnson( Warning: I'm a fan ) about the need or not, to lock your suspension.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BR10jYyJ4yE
Few months ago, I decided to go without lock( every gram I could shed was good ), and don't regret it.
I remember to lock it manually once, because I knew the end of the race was a 2km road on asphalt and the other team was just behind us.
RS SIDLuxe is light and so far works great for me.
Not sure FOX shocks are twice as good ;D
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@carbonazza Thank you. will go into the direction too.
Can I continue with bunch of stupid questions?
1) do you know the link to the right bushings on bike24? I know it is 8x22.2. I found 2-3 of them on b24, but cannot understand if it is for sidluxe or not.
2) how many sets of them I need for trunnion? I found that standard shock needs 2x sets of bushing. Is it applicable for trunnion or just one is enough?
3) anything else I need to buy to setup the shock? Any mounts? Ah, probably shock-pump
Thank you,
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There was a recent video of Dylan Johnson( Warning: I'm a fan ) about the need or not, to lock your suspension.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BR10jYyJ4yE
Few months ago, I decided to go without lock( every gram I could shed was good ), and don't regret it.
I remember to lock it manually once, because I knew the end of the race was a 2km road on asphalt and the other team was just behind us.
RS SIDLuxe is light and so far works great for me.
Not sure FOX shocks are twice as good ;D
I came to the same conclusion as Dylan a long time ago. "Feel" is subjective, but the clock never lies. ;-)
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Hi guys, I've finally assembled the bike and it looks great!
Unfortunately I'm facing a bit of an issue with the gear cable housing & routing
When I shift, instead of moving the RD, it tries to pull the gear housing flat from its curved shape / pulls it into the frame (either at the RD or entry at the head tube)
I've never had a bike where there isn't a form of stopper which prevents the outer housing getting pulled into the frame (see orange bike photo as a typical standard), and then the closeups of what I am using / used (ignore the sellotape that was just to test out the issue ;D)
I'm using a good quality Jagwire sport kit for what its worth
Can anyone please advise how they have sorted this? or if they have the same problem
I guess I could run a full length of gear cable from front to back?
Thanks
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I think you will have to run the shifter cable housing the full length of the frame.
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Have you run the outer housing full length? Is the housing seated into the shifter correctly? I don't see how this would be happening if both of those things have been done.
Also, make sure you have installed your derailleur correctly and it is engaging the stop the way it is meant to.
The outer often pulls into the frame over time with suspension cycling where it is run under the bb, one of the reasons I don't like that design, but that shouldn't be a problem with yours as it is over the bb.
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Areid280 - I don’t believe that white plastic is suitable gear housing. Gear housing shouldn’t bend or kink when gears are changed. I would run the gear housing outer the whole length.
Good luck
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@ areid280,
you must run the outer shifter housing the whole length !!
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Thanks guys, I will reinstall with outer cable running the full length!
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Could someone recommend fork? Unfortunately I am far away from MTB to understand anything about it
RS/FOX. RS is cheaper, and I do not know if fox much better because it has 2x price
If RS, Do I need remote (for XC races)? I heard that Deluxe is fine for climbing without lock, but sidluxe is more DC shock that is why remote is necessary for uphill. Probably RT3 can solve it? What the f* is MegNeg? About SIDLuxe - not clear if trunnion has remote
My short list:
RockShox Deluxe RT3 Debon Air 165x42.5mm 268.9
RockShox SIDLuxe Ultimate RL Solo Air 285.71
RockShox Deluxe Ultimate RCT 286.9811939
Fox Suspension Float DPS Factory 3Pos-Adj SV 488.49
Fox Racing Shox Float DPS EVOL SV 3POS Factory Trunnion Rear Shock - 2022 Model 528.57
Fox Float DPS Kashima Factory Series 3Pos-Adj Trunnion Evol SV 569.5218394
Thank you,
Can't say about fox suspension simply because of lack of riding on it, but personnaly I choosing between sid ultimate 120mm and pike 120mm. Sid looks like ultimate xc fork but according to forum racers it has a lot of problems. On the other hand Pike is obviuosly weighted more and need some fine tuning for doing good on xc race, but it's pretty reliable and known already. Actually if you're pretty new in mtb you could take Reba 100m and sidluxe. Decent fork that is just works if correctly tuned.
Shocks:
1. Sidluxe - yes, I also couldn't find any trunnion sidluxe with remote and it seems like it doesn't exists at all
2. Any Deluxe - probably the most versatile option with settings and whistles, but may be it's overkill for such a short travel bike
Regarding to remotes - this is the very personal and depends of your climbing technics imho. My last full suspension didn't have any and I had no problem at all but someone can say opposite.
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Can I use a 165x38 shock. I ve just found a x fusion 02 Pro. Anyone knows this shox? Is it good?
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Is this one
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you can use it, with 38mm rather than the 40mm stroke shock you'll get a little less travel, but it will probably not make a huge difference in ride feel.
The X Fusion shock is a budget option, but they're actually pretty good and X fusion have been slowly but surely carving a good reputation for themselves.
I can only speak for their forks in terms of feel, as to me, rear shock between manufacturers don't feel that different, mostly as there's more than the shock at play between bikes, shock rate will be a bigger factor between two different bikes running different shocks....but, for their forks, they're well made and pretty reliable, if not that sophisticated in terms of damping.
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My frame is finally painted and heading my way. I can’t wait to build it!
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Wow, thats nice color
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Hi All
Anyone got a torque spec for the pivot bolts ?
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Wing just emailed me, torque settings on the bolts :)
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Russ, are you able to share the torque settings? Would be v useful...
Thanks
Shinso
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In it's current as shown iteration my size small Vitus Rapide CR is 11.5kg, including 300gr XTR pedals, 10gr carbon cage and 400gr loaded seat pack. Deviations from the original spec are:
2.35 Racing Ray & Racing Ralph tyres (both 700grams)
Wheels running tubeless
Ashima rotors
Fovno Ghost crankset
45mm UNO stem
15mm low rise Chiner carbon bar 720mm width
Elita One 400mm carbon post
Specialized Romin Evo Pro carbon saddle
ESI chunky grips
Removed remote lock out switch and cabling
The reach of the bike is such that I'm glad I went for the size small at 5'9" (slightly short torso/longer legs). Needed the riser bar to compensate for the low stack height. I love the way the bike looks, not like the embarrassing mess that Scottish-saddled poster put up a couple of pages back.
I tidied up the cabling with some self-amalgamating rubber tape and used a foam damper tube to quieten some of the internal cabling after I removed the lock-out cabling.
I think there is no difference between the CR frame and the CRX frame and have no idea if this is the standard or light FM936, not that it really matters. No issues to report on the frame itself at all.
The bigger tyres feel bombproof; it's telling that I've had these on for a couple of months having experimented a lot with other tyre choices.
Where I live the trails are light to middling XC, the Ridgeway in South Oxon is not that demanding - despite a lot of people riding around on trail/enduro bikes for some reason. This bike fits the bill perfectly and I hardly ride the road bike at all these days. That might change now we're into mud season!
The only thing I might change in the Spring is switching to some Chinese carbon wheels. I can live with the boat anchor all steel cassette until it wears out, it's an expendable anyway...even if after 1500km it is hardly showing any wear...
Shinso
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My frame is finally painted and heading my way. I can’t wait to build it!
Beautiful
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How many people are running this frame with 120mm fork? That would slack out the HTA to 66deg. Which is slacker than my current 130/140mm trail bike. Curious how ppl find it with 120mm. Also I did notice the BB drop is pretty low on this bike, so the 120mm can help raise the BB.
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How many people are running this frame with 120mm fork? That would slack out the HTA to 66deg. Which is slacker than my current 130/140mm trail bike. Curious how ppl find it with 120mm. Also I did notice the BB drop is pretty low on this bike, so the 120mm can help raise the BB.
i use 120mm fork, fits this frame great
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Run a 120mm fork here as well. Started with a 100mm fork and just felt a little lacking on some of the steeper and gnarlier stuff. A lot more pedal strikes as well for me with the shorter fork - running 170mm cranks.
I will say the steering can get a bit slow if you run a longer stem with that slacker HTA - probably anything over 50-60mm long. But a little more speed and lean will really wake it up, this geo likes to go fast IMO - up, down or flat.
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How many people are running this frame with 120mm fork? That would slack out the HTA to 66deg. Which is slacker than my current 130/140mm trail bike. Curious how ppl find it with 120mm. Also I did notice the BB drop is pretty low on this bike, so the 120mm can help raise the BB.
Run also a 120mm fork.
Perfect mate
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Je reviens sur le sujet du verrouillage de l'amortisseur.
Personnellement je règle l'amortisseur avec beaucoup de sag pour que le vélo soit souple en descente et donc j'utilise souvent le verrouillage en montée (scott spark).
Donc question: la position de l'amortisseur "tête en bas" sur le FM936 ne positionne-t-il pas le levier de verrouillage trop loin? De la mon hésitation avec le FM909.
Merci
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Je reviens sur le sujet du verrouillage de l'amortisseur.
Personnellement je règle l'amortisseur avec beaucoup de sag pour que le vélo soit souple en descente et donc j'utilise souvent le verrouillage en montée (scott spark).
Donc question: la position de l'amortisseur "tête en bas" sur le FM936 ne positionne-t-il pas le levier de verrouillage trop loin? De la mon hésitation avec le FM909.
Merci
it is almost impossible to use the switch on the shock absorber on the go
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Hi at all
actually, i'm just a silent reader. but in this case, i want to inform you about my experience.
I ordered directly from Carbonda the FM936 in "superlight". after arriving, the problems began.
1. was the frame in "XL" around the 2200g...
2. the bore of the rear end was not 12.0mm, it was 12.70 - 12.80mm
3. the distance at the linkage was on the lower side 22.2mm on the upper side 23.0mm
No idea if I have a friday afternoon model or the manufacturer has a bigger quality problem.
greats from Switzerland...
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1. was the frame in "XL" around the 2200g...
2. the bore of the rear end was not 12.0mm, it was 12.70 - 12.80mm
3. the distance at the linkage was on the lower side 22.2mm on the upper side 23.0mm
Did you contact them about that ?
1) There are some more carbon on the XL :D, and I don't remember seeing here someone asking officially what size is the announced weight and what parts that includes.
2) Is it 12.7 a problem ?
If I remember well, the hanger is the nut, the axle just passing through the frame.
3) Do you mean where the shock is mounted ?
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La mia carbonda 10485 gr
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Did you contact them about that ?
1) There are some more carbon on the XL :D, and I don't remember seeing here someone asking officially what size is the announced weight and what parts that includes.
2) Is it 12.7 a problem ?
If I remember well, the hanger is the nut, the axle just passing through the frame.
3) Do you mean where the shock is mounted ?
Hi Carbonazza
Well, its my 2. FM936 frame. I build it in Feb. 2021 in Size "L"
There was absolut no problems. it was one of the best frame ever bild.
1. the 2200g is the weight of the "normal" frame, not of the "superlight". from "M" to "L" or from "L" to "XL" its nomal about 50-75g. not more.
2. I stay in contact with Wing from Carbonda and they are checking the quality controll
3. yes, the 12.7mm are a problem. the hub is all the time moving. there is a tolerence about 12.10mm +-0,05mm (if im right :) )
4. yes, is there where the shock is. is not a big problem. but the quality controll must check thise...
greats
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La mia carbonda 10485 gr
Bella mino! Ci puoi fare la lista dei componenti e che taglia è? Grazie
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Manubrio aliexpress odinzeus integrato
Ammortizzatore xfusion
Ruote Cypwheels con mozzi tune
Guarnitura xx1 con powermeter sygei
Corona da 32 decas
Pacco pignoni leonardi 9-48
Gomma anteriore shwalbe rocket ron
Gomma posteriore maxxis recon race
Reggisella elitaone aliexpress
Movimento centrale bsa ztto aliexpress
Freni shimano xt 8100
Forcella sid ultimate carbon
Sella carbonio aliexpress
Pedali spd shimano xt
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Taglia M. Non ho montato il blocco all'ammortizzatore perché in pedalata è molto stabile
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Primo giro a bomba
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i use 120mm fork, fits this frame great
Ilya, do you use 170 or 175 mm cranks? And if 175, how it feels regarding hitting obstacles (I mean pedal strikes)?
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Ilya, do you use 170 or 175 mm cranks? And if 175, how it feels regarding hitting obstacles (I mean pedal strikes)?
Changed 175 to 170, touched the roots from 175
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Sorry if this has been asked before but thoughts on normal vs superlight?
what did you choose. carbon layup better on the superlight?
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Ordered the fm 936 today in Size M.
Did anyone already run the frame with a 130mm fork. I already have a Pike Ultimate with 150mm travel which i want to use but unsure if i should go down to 120 or 130 mm.
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Did anyone already run the frame with a 130mm fork. I already have a Pike Ultimate with 150mm travel which i want to use but unsure if i should go down to 120 or 130 mm.
As this frame has really low bottom bracket, so I think there will be no problems using 130mm fork. Keep in mind that in this case you'll get headtube angle about 65,5 degrees.
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Sorry if this has been asked before but thoughts on normal vs superlight?
what did you choose. carbon layup better on the superlight?
I was on a quest for a super light bike, so shedding some grams on everything is a must.
Otherwise it is probably not worth the cost.
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Hello all,
Reporting back after building my bike up back in the spring. I've only put ~500 miles on it due to work and alternating rides on my hardtail. I've enjoyed the bike a lot. It does seem to be at its best in high speed sections.
Today I was doing a little maintenance and took the suspension apart for some inspection and cleanup. All the bearings and pivots were still tight and in good condition, so I just cleaned, re-lubed, and put everything back together. However, while tightening the hardware using a torque wrench, I stripped out the head of Torx screw for the rocker pivot. I'm sure it was partly my technique, but perhaps the screw wasn't the highest quality. So I'm currently stuck and in need of two things:
1) advice on how to remove a bolt with a stripped head.
2) help locating a replacement screw of higher quality.
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks!
Ted
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1) advice on how to remove a bolt with a stripped head.
Drill it a bit deeper, then use something like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001707877026.html
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OK - I got the stripped bolt out!
Now I just need a replacement. Anyone know what type of bolt it is or where to get one?
TIA,
Ted
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However, while tightening the hardware using a torque wrench, I stripped out the head of Torx screw for the rocker pivot. I'm sure it was partly my technique, but perhaps the screw wasn't the highest quality.
Perhaps?! If you stripped a Torx head without overtorquing the bolt, the bolt was clearly defective, either in manufacture or (my bet) material choice. That just shouldn't happen.
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...That just shouldn't happen.
Welcome in the world of single-use Chinese bolts ;D
We should list all the bolts, and find reliable alternative ones.
I've ordered a bolt kit, and will measure them when they arrive.
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Cracked the chainstay on my 936 today, pedal strike then crash. Was hoping it was just a crack in the top coat, but now I can see water weeping through crack (from inside the chainstay). :-\
I'll see what Carbonda says, not expecting a full warranty here. I've put about 2200 hard miles on it so far.
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Cracked the chainstay on my 936 today, pedal strike then crash. Was hoping it was just a crack in the top coat, but now I can see water weeping through crack (from inside the chainstay). :-\
I'll see what Carbonda says, not expecting a full warranty here. I've put about 2200 hard miles on it so far.
my chainstay cracked at the point marked with the arrow along, through. Adam wrote to saw them and sent out new ones as soon as they were ready.
(received new ones today)
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Crazy, my chainstay cracked right behind the yoke as well, but on the lower seam on the inside.
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my chainstay cracked at the point marked with the arrow along, through. Adam wrote to saw them and sent out new ones as soon as they were ready.
(received new ones today)
Curious, is it a normal or a light version?
thanks,
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Curious, is it a normal or a light version?
thanks,
its normal version
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and mine is the SL version.
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OK - I got the stripped bolt out!
Now I just need a replacement. Anyone know what type of bolt it is or where to get one?
TIA,
Ted
OK - I took the stripped bolt to Lowe's and determined that it is a M6x20 bolt. I found a reasonable stainless steel replacement. It has a flat head with the same counter-sink angle (looks like 90 degrees). Only difference is the head diameter is slightly larger, so it won't sit quite flush. Otherwise it looks like it should work just fine.
Hope this helps someone else down the road. Any time we have the suspension apart, it's probably a good idea to look for spare fasteners for the other pivots, too.
Ted
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Picture of the bolt...
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Picture of it installed...
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does anyone use the dt swiss r 232 one? how does it look to you? I was looking for something different from the usual Fox or RS.
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I lost a linkage bolt during a ride. Totally my fault, I forget to put the proper torque back in after maintenance. No damage, to the frame. Any idea where I could find some replacement hardware?
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I lost a linkage bolt during a ride. Totally my fault, I forget to put the proper torque back in after maintenance. No damage, to the frame. Any idea where I could find some replacement hardware?
A Titanium M5 screw and a washer since July... It will be replaced when I get the hardware from Carbonda.
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Haha, its great to see someone with the same problem. I put the rear shock on before checking the torque on that link, then I was too lazy to take off the shock and check. Paid the price I guess.
A Titanium M5 screw and a washer since July... It will be replaced when I get the hardware from Carbonda.
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Can someone tell me what minimum q-factor can I use with 936 frame?
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For the Sidluxe does anyone know which type of remote lockout routing the shock used on this frame?
Or what is specced on the Vitus Rapide?
Thanks
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It's the Remote In option.
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Thanks @sync1
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Has anyone tried a Shimano 4pot brake in the rear?
Seems like a tight space and not sure it will fit?
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Got mine finished :)
could you share your impressions about the shock absorber dt535 after long-term use. How does it feel to ride? how reliable is it? what problems have you had with it?
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So finally I've got my frame ordered in the middle of December. I was really impressed with two things - amount of packaging layers and overall quality of the frame, especially its internal surfaces (compared to my old HT they look much nicer). L-sized frame with all hardware including axle but excluding seatpost clamp and headset weights 2168 grams, which is exactly in specified range of 2150±50g. BSA BB insert seems to be made of anodized aluminum, and this is pretty perfect because there will be no galvanic couple and corrosion that may lead to separating of insert from carbon. Main pivot bolt on my frame is 80,8 mm, so I don't have to shorten it. I also noticed that one of metal dust seals (which are covering main pivot bearings) is anodized but another one is painted (and of course painting was chipped during installation of rear triangle). This seems a bit weird. Anyway I like how the frame looks but I'm still waiting for some parts to start my build.
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Can someone please help how to mount the trunnion shock into frame?
Frame itself has ~ 58.4mm between bearings.
But trunnion inner bolt shims came with the frame is 2.4mm wide. 58.4 - 2x2.4 => 53.6mm, but trunnion shock is 54mm => it does not fit between the shims
The part of the frame is not flexible at all to compensate the 0.4mm
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All seems to have gone a bit quiet on here - no new builds to report out there??
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Here is my FM936 SL freshly assembled.
Size L frame, XX1 AXS groupset, SRAM Level Ultimate rainbow brakes, Centerline X 180/160mm discs, Sid Ultimate 120mm fork, Sidluxe 42.5mm shock, wheels fitted by myself with Light-Ride 27mm internal rims at 310g each, Goldix hubs , Pillar 1420 spokes. Look X-track race pedals, generic handlebar stem combo in 740mm and 60mm stem, ESI Grips racers Edge.
With the AXS seatpost it weighs 10,430 kilos, and 9,890 kilos with the Elita One seatpost (respectively 23lb and 21,8lb).
I'll try to put a picture but the last time it crashed the topic... ::)
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Well I tried several times but I can't post a picture of the bike, I don't know why a blank page opens when I want to post it.
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Well I tried several times but I can't post a picture of the bike, I don't know why a blank page opens when I want to post it.
on your comment, click the "Attachments and other options ", another menu comes up with "Attach" and a box under that that says "Choose File". Click choose file then select the pic from your hard drive but please, resize them first. The thumb nails here are to small to see any detail but 90% of the time you click the thumb nail the pics blow up to be about 4 times the size of the screen and really grainy quality. You can't view them on a normal computer screen.
If you have hosted the pics on flicker or the like then there is a thread that shows you how to attach them. http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,999.0.html
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Here is a pic if it works
Edit : it finally works, victory ! ;D
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I can show you 2 more pics now
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Here is a pic if it works
Nice build! What are you using as top tube protection against brake levers?
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Nice build! What are you using as top tube protection against brake levers?
It's Skean Legend, a french product that is specially intended to this use.
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Looks great Robin and good job getting the pics up, I for one appreciate the screen friendly sizing.
Are you happy with how it rides?
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Looks great Robin and good job getting the pics up, I for one appreciate the screen friendly sizing.
Are you happy with how it rides?
I've never ridden a bike so comfortable and efficient in downhills, it's really amazing. It also climbs very well, the position is super natural when I thought I was a bit lost with the huge reach coupled with a 60mm stem.
For the photos I think I have found a good compromise between size and quality, I'll keep the same settings ;)
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I've never ridden a bike so comfortable and efficient in downhills, it's really amazing. It also climbs very well, the position is super natural when I thought I was a bit lost with the huge reach coupled with a 60mm stem.
For the photos I think I have found a good compromise between size and quality, I'll keep the same settings ;)
What bars are you running? :)
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It's a copy of Gemini Propus combo, with 60mm stem and 740mm handlebar.
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Does anyone know if a DVO Topaz rear shock (165x42.5, TR) would fit in this frame? Thanks!
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I'm thinking about replacing fox dps (ebay oem giant anthem 2018) with rockshox nude rlc3, what do you think? wouldn't it be a step back in performance and reliability?
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I'm thinking about replacing fox dps (ebay oem giant anthem 2018) with rockshox nude rlc3, what do you think? wouldn't it be a step back in performance and reliability?
What's wrong with your fox dps? Why you want to replace it?
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What's wrong with your fox dps? Why you want to replace it?
everything is fine with it, but I want remote lockout and there is a desire to change the digressive damper to a linear
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Does anyone know if a DVO Topaz rear shock (165x42.5, TR) would fit in this frame? Thanks!
The only thing I might be concerned about with a Topaz is that the piggyback might not have enough space because the flat bottom of the down tube is much shorter than on the FM1001/1002.
To the best of my recollection, I’ve never once seen a 936 with a piggyback shock. That could be simply because piggybacks are considered more “enduro” than XC, but my assumption is there’s a more practical reason.
If you can find any other instance of a piggyback shock fitting a 936, then I’d assume it *should* be possible even though the Topaz bladder enclosure is a little bigger than some other piggybacks like the DPX2.
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Nearly all parts arrived, so starting building wheels
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Nearly all parts arrived, so starting building wheels
I am curious how the sroad (is it sroad?) cassette will work. I think about it too. I have used up gx casette need to be replaced.
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I am curious how the sroad (is it sroad?) cassette will work. I think about it too. I have used up gx casette need to be replaced.
Yep, it's sroad 10-50T. I suppose it to be at least better than ztto 9-50T, but I'll give feedback about how it works not earlier than late spring - here in north-west Russia there are too much snow to test it properly now.
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Yep, it's sroad 10-50T. I suppose it to be at least better than ztto 9-50T, but I'll give feedback about how it works not earlier than late spring - here in north-west Russia there are too much snow to test it properly now.
Same in Poland :). Waiting for better weather and to build and test my carbonda 909.
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It's a copy of Gemini Propus combo, with 60mm stem and 740mm handlebar.
Do you have perhaps a link to the bar you bought? It helps me to cut through the sea of AliExpress listings.
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everything is fine with it, but I want remote lockout and there is a desire to change the digressive damper to a linear
Oddly, I'm thinking of doing the exact same thing for the same reason...
If you do it let me know how it goes!
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Oddly, I'm thinking of doing the exact same thing for the same reason...
If you do it let me know how it goes!
yes, okay, I'll write the impressions of the ride, but it will probably be in April or May. It's cold and snowing here in Russia until that time :)
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I too would like a lock out and will get the kit for the SidLuxe Ultimate prior to a potential 2021 Breck Epic.
I'm looking at the 936 as a "B" bike for events like Breck Epic. I did Breck in 2019, and having a lock-out is definitely a plus! There are a few days that start with long paved climbs out of town, and there are several portions of dirt roads throughout all 6 stages, so the lock-out definitely helps. I rode a 2020 Norco Revolver FS 2 100/100mm, with lock-out, and while the 100mm is perfectly capable, I've since bumped it up to 120/120mm. That extra 20mm of travel would've been nice to have. By Day 3 your body is starting to feel pretty beat!
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Whew!!! All 131 pages thoroughly read! The 936 has been high on my list of potential frames, but the hardware quality has been a bit of a booger, IMO. I did some digging into the other brands using the frame and came across this on the Vitus page: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0365/1272/7173/files/RapideFS_Metric_Spare_Parts_Kit_External.pdf?v=1630512037 (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0365/1272/7173/files/RapideFS_Metric_Spare_Parts_Kit_External.pdf?v=1630512037) It's a superb breakdown of all the pivots, hardware, bearings, everything in the 936 frames! Hopefully, it will be of use to those of us in need of replacement hardware.
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yes, okay, I'll write the impressions of the ride, but it will probably be in April or May. It's cold and snowing here in Russia until that time :)
Thanks! And don't worry about the delay, it is also covered in snow here in Oslo at the moment.
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Whew!!! All 131 pages thoroughly read! The 936 has been high on my list of potential frames, but the hardware quality has been a bit of a booger, IMO. I did some digging into the other brands using the frame and came across this on the Vitus page: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0365/1272/7173/files/RapideFS_Metric_Spare_Parts_Kit_External.pdf?v=1630512037 (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0365/1272/7173/files/RapideFS_Metric_Spare_Parts_Kit_External.pdf?v=1630512037) It's a superb breakdown of all the pivots, hardware, bearings, everything in the 936 frames! Hopefully, it will be of use to those of us in need of replacement hardware.
Thanks for this, has anyone found where to buy replacements though? Do I have to contact Vitus?
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Thanks! And don't worry about the delay, it is also covered in snow here in Oslo at the moment.
actually I got it the other day and installed it. Haven't traveled yet. From a home test it is clear that the initial sensitivity of the damper is higher and the final progression too. In general, the way the digressive and linear work of shock absorbers is drawn on the graphs is the same feeling from the test at home.
traction mode is softer than fox
difference in air spring progression in open mode and traction mode is about 30%
cable pull 15 mm, need twinloc remote
real stroke 38 mm
in details, the shock absorber feels simpler and cheaper than fox)
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Thanks for this, has anyone found where to buy replacements though? Do I have to contact Vitus?
I would guess that you'd need to contact Vitus or one of their dealers, but the interwebz can provide us all things if we have the right part numbers. ;) At least with the Vitus parts docs, we now have a much better idea of all the pieces involved & can search for them easier when needed.
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Meet another one red carbonda 8)
Thank you for all your posts!
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This bike is a
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Hey gang, I know this is a long & drawn-out topic - "which size?" - but I'm about to put my order in, and I'm right in between M & L sizing, depending on which set of numbers you run with. Using just reach & stack (compared with my current 120 Norco Revolver setup), M should be pretty darn close. You can see in the geo comparison chart where the L 120 revolver & the M 936 match up pretty well in reach & stack. But based on my height, the NS sizing recommends a M, while the Vitus sizing suggests a large. Nothing's ever easy, is it?
Any thoughts or practical experience from the peanut gallery?
Edit: I should mention this will be running a 120 fork, with a crown to axle measurement of 526mm, so the front end will come up 20mm and the angles will slack by 1º.
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Any thoughts or practical experience from the peanut gallery?
After quick check I suggest you L. With 120mm fork your reach will be 491, not 500. And I recommend you to use following link and check if you will be able to get nearly the same RAD and seated fit (distance from saddle to grips) as on your Norco on L sized Carbonda frame even with 35 mm stem:
https://madscientistmtb.com/bike-geometry-comparison/
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Any thoughts from the peanut gallery?
Have you ridden a bike with a 77 degree seat tube angle? The point of the "progressive" geometry is to get a longer more stable wheelbase, and put you in a better position for steep climbing, while keeping saddle to handlebar length in check (hence long reach, long wheelbase, but steep STA to bring the saddle closer to the bars). If you went with a medium, you'd likely slam the saddle rearwards, because the top tube is 30mm shorter than your large Revolver. The large will give you similar top tube length to your Revolver, but with your body more forward and over the pedals. It's a different feeling, but is the true intention of the bike.
What are your body dimensions? I'm 5'10.5", so I'm also right in the middle of everyone's medium and large size charts, but I have shorter legs (about a 31" inseam) and long arms (around 6'1" arm span). If I went for an FM936 I think I'd be inclined to go with a large, with the main downside being the 490mm seat tube length. If you have long torso and/or long arms, then it will push you towards the larger bike, and vice versa. For reference, my GG Smash is 481mm reach, 77 deg STA, and 625mm top tube, and it actually feels a bit small to me with a 40mm stem.
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Have you ridden a bike with a 77 degree seat tube angle? The point of the "progressive" geometry is to get a longer more stable wheelbase, and put you in a better position for steep climbing, while keeping saddle to handlebar length in check (hence long reach, long wheelbase, but steep STA to bring the saddle closer to the bars). If you went with a medium, you'd likely slam the saddle rearwards, because the top tube is 30mm shorter than your large Revolver. The large will give you similar top tube length to your Revolver, but with your body more forward and over the pedals. It's a different feeling, but is the true intention of the bike.
My Revolver started as the 100mm version, with a 76º ST & 68.5 HT. I wanted the dual lock-out, only available on the 100, as the bike's primary purpose is XC marathon races. I've since bumped it up to 120mm, which slacked it out 1.1º respectively. I also came to the current Revolver from its previous generation model, which was the old school steep geometry. Night & day difference! The new progressive geo is leaps & bounds better!! My concern with the FM936's sizing is simply winding up with a frame that is smaller/bigger than what's acceptable to get my fit dialed correctly. It would definitely be easier if we were able to put hands on one of these before we order, but that's just not part of the deal we get when buying direct.
I plugged the numbers into the link that @Zomb1e posted, and it's pretty stinkin' close L Norco vs L FM936.
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Hey how did you calculate the spoke lengths? did you go off the spec sheet of the goldix hubs? the specs of the hubs seem random.
Here is my FM936 SL freshly assembled.
Size L frame, XX1 AXS groupset, SRAM Level Ultimate rainbow brakes, Centerline X 180/160mm discs, Sid Ultimate 120mm fork, Sidluxe 42.5mm shock, wheels fitted by myself with Light-Ride 27mm internal rims at 310g each, Goldix hubs , Pillar 1420 spokes. Look X-track race pedals, generic handlebar stem combo in 740mm and 60mm stem, ESI Grips racers Edge.
With the AXS seatpost it weighs 10,430 kilos, and 9,890 kilos with the Elita One seatpost (respectively 23lb and 21,8lb).
I'll try to put a picture but the last time it crashed the topic... ::)
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Hey gang, I know this is a long & drawn-out topic - "which size?" - but I'm about to put my order in, and I'm right in between M & L sizing, depending on which set of numbers you run with. Using just reach & stack (compared with my current 120 Norco Revolver setup), M should be pretty darn close. You can see in the geo comparison chart where the L 120 revolver & the M 936 match up pretty well in reach & stack. But based on my height, the NS sizing recommends a M, while the Vitus sizing suggests a large. Nothing's ever easy, is it?
Any thoughts or practical experience from the peanut gallery?
Edit: I should mention this will be running a 120 fork, with a crown to axle measurement of 526mm, so the front end will come up 20mm and the angles will slack by 1º.
So that is problem I faced too. According to raw geometry numbers size M (for my 187cm) should be okay as it very close to my Big Nine, but in reality it's completely different bike than your revolver or my big nine and size L feels not that big as on picture.
Actually the most noticable difference between Big Nine in size L and fm936 in L is slackest HTA. It feels like handlebars now completely useless, lol. However body position (on 120mm fork and 35mm stem) is more like on dirt bike with all the weight on pedals compared to "old geometry" cross country bike. Strange combo, need to get used to it.
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After doing too much math, it's looking like the L is the size for me. Once it's built, mathematically speaking, it should fall within 2-4mm & .5º-1.5º of my Norco's setup, so I'd call that a win.
My question to those that have purchased already is between Regular or SL versions. Aside from weights, do you find that there is a marked difference in the overall build quality/durability of one vs the other? I've seen some chatter here about some internal "roughness" and some frame cracking issues with the Regular versions. Anything of note with the SL?
Just waiting on a buddy to decide if he's getting the FM1001, so we can save on shipping. Otherwise, I'm pulling the trigger on the 936 either way.
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We have bought both standard and super light.
Weight difference was only 50 gr.
Quality and durabilty is same.
Sorry for my poor english
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We have bought both standard and super light.
Weight difference was only 50 gr.
...
The same size and difference only by 50g ? What I've read it was reported like 150g.
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Yes only 50 gr difference.
Size M super light 1950
Size M standard 2000
Within the tolerance +50/-50 gr.
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Yesterday, I noticed the drive side BB bearings seized :-\
While removing the BB, some accumulated water went out.
I drilled a 2mm hole at the lowest point of the frame, to let the water flow out, hopefully to make the bearings last longer.
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actually I got it the other day and installed it. Haven't traveled yet. From a home test it is clear that the initial sensitivity of the damper is higher and the final progression too. In general, the way the digressive and linear work of shock absorbers is drawn on the graphs is the same feeling from the test at home.
traction mode is softer than fox
difference in air spring progression in open mode and traction mode is about 30%
cable pull 15 mm, need twinloc remote
real stroke 38 mm
in details, the shock absorber feels simpler and cheaper than fox)
That is really helpful, thanks. If the real stroke on this one is 38mm, do you think you could have got away with a 165x45 one? Also, do you have any idea if the 165x40 one you have can be extended later to 165x42.5 (like other shocks) or if something about the nude set up means that is not possible? I like the idea of the nude shock but don't want to give up too much travel for it.
Also, let us know how you get one once you get to ride the bike with the new shock!
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That is really helpful, thanks. If the real stroke on this one is 38mm, do you think you could have got away with a 165x45 one? Also, do you have any idea if the 165x40 one you have can be extended later to 165x42.5 (like other shocks) or if something about the nude set up means that is not possible? I like the idea of the nude shock but don't want to give up too much travel for it.
Also, let us know how you get one once you get to ride the bike with the new shock!
nude is a deluxe with a redesigned head that has a second airbag attached to it. The course is changed as on other shock absorbers with plastic spacers (red spacer in the photo). Using 45mm would probably be too much, on my frame the 42.5mm chainstay fox was grabbing the frame.
I rode three times. I confirm, works on a linear schedule, very sensitive at the beginning, more grip, softer through hard / sharp bumps, softer and more confident landing from jumps.
traction mode when driving works exactly as it should - reduces buildup and continues to handle bumps
the only thing that discouraged me was the whistle of the sealing ring of the damper cover on the rod, the shock absorber sings))
At the moment I am completely satisfied with the update. Got exactly what I wanted
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nude is a deluxe with a redesigned head that has a second airbag attached to it. The course is changed as on other shock absorbers with plastic spacers (red spacer in the photo). Using 45mm would probably be too much, on my frame the 42.5mm chainstay fox was grabbing the frame.
I rode three times. I confirm, works on a linear schedule, very sensitive at the beginning, more grip, softer through hard / sharp bumps, softer and more confident landing from jumps.
traction mode when driving works exactly as it should - reduces buildup and continues to handle bumps
the only thing that discouraged me was the whistle of the sealing ring of the damper cover on the rod, the shock absorber sings))
At the moment I am completely satisfied with the update. Got exactly what I wanted
Thanks again for your super helpful feedback. So does that mean that the 40mm and 45mm are the same shock just with different spacers inside (as is the case for most other shocks)? And, if so, when you opened yours what size were the spacers? What I'm trying to work out is if there is a way of taking a 2.5mm spacer out to get back to the 42.5 I have with the DPS (I'm not having any issues with the rear triangle hitting the frame with 42.5).
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@urbs, as I know (but of course I may be wrong), absolutely all 165mm shocks with trunnion mount have maximum stroke of 45mm. All shorter strokes are obtained by using spacers. Some manufacturers produce shocks with only 45 and 40mm strokes (5mm spacer), others add 42.5mm (2.5mm spacer) and sometimes 37.5mm (7.5mm spacer).
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Thanks again for your super helpful feedback. So does that mean that the 40mm and 45mm are the same shock just with different spacers inside (as is the case for most other shocks)? And, if so, when you opened yours what size were the spacers? What I'm trying to work out is if there is a way of taking a 2.5mm spacer out to get back to the 42.5 I have with the DPS (I'm not having any issues with the rear triangle hitting the frame with 42.5).
Yes, this is the same shock, but with the gradation of the sega drawn at different heights and the maximum stroke.
I did not measure the height, I think 5 mm. since the maximum stroke of this shock absorber is 45mm. That is, yes, you can adjust the shock absorber travel in the range 45> 0 by changing the height of the spacer to limit travel
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Thanks both of you! I was aware that other 165 shocks are all the same. I just wasn't sure if the proprietary nude changed something that effected that or what size the spacers were. Thanks for all the info!
I think I will go down the same route as you ilyamaksimov. I too would like a little more sensitivity at the beginning. I'm also intrigued by the reduced travel traction mode.
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Thanks both of you! I was aware that other 165 shocks are all the same. I just wasn't sure if the proprietary nude changed something that effected that or what size the spacers were. Thanks for all the info!
I think I will go down the same route as you ilyamaksimov. I too would like a little more sensitivity at the beginning. I'm also intrigued by the reduced travel traction mode.
By the way, I drilled a hole for the cable))
(Adam didn't ask for the front triangle to be cut when the new one was shipped under warranty last year, so I have room to experiment)
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Frame ordered & Wing confirmed receipt of payment. Any guesses on how long it will take for it to arrive in California? I know the world is currently a mess, so there's no expectation of it being here next week, by any means. And I'm sidelined with a fractured heel for a few more months, so it's not like I can ride anyway (Note: walking on the beach is dangerous).
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Frame ordered & Wing confirmed receipt of payment. Any guesses on how long it will take for it to arrive in California? I know the world is currently a mess, so there's no expectation of it being here next week, by any means. And I'm sidelined with a fractured heel for a few more months, so it's not like I can ride anyway (Note: walking on the beach is dangerous).
I think I ordered at a time when there was a short interruption in supply of the 1002, just before New Year’s, so you may get yours a little sooner but it took about a month from when I sent the payment to when I received my frame. About 10 days from when it shipped, and 3 days from when the domestic tracking number became active.
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I think I ordered at a time when there was a short interruption in supply of the 1002, just before New Year’s, so you may get yours a little sooner but it took about a month from when I sent the payment to when I received my frame. About 10 days from when it shipped, and 3 days from when the domestic tracking number became active.
Yeah, I'm honestly thinking somewhere in the 30-60 day range, all things considered. The quote says "7-14 days" for shipping, but I'm not holding my breath on that one.
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Colt, I expect it's fine!
Frame shipped today! I wanted the same colour (glitter purple) as Zilcho but covering the whole frame. something was lost in translation so they've painted it half black and half glitter as zilcho! @Zilcho - I'm really sorry mate!
I don't mind plus they'd already shipped it, so I'll not tell them anything, and not factor it into any feedback I post online. I'll put some skins on top of the black area so it won't look the same and Zilchos!
I started this build thinking I'd put a Rockshox gold 35, Shimano SLX, cheap alu rims but the budget has crept and now I'm going for SID 120mm and XT with BTLOS carbon 29mm internal rims. Thought to myself, if I'm going to race on it, might at wel buy the parts once rather than twice when I realise I need a bit more from the bike.
Hi there. What color code is this? I'm thinking of something like this color, maybe RAL5000 "violet blue" with glitter. I like this look and couldn't find what code this or zilcho's color codes are. May be ordering a FM 909 or 936. Thanks for any help
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Frame ordered & Wing confirmed receipt of payment. Any guesses on how long it will take for it to arrive in California? I know the world is currently a mess, so there's no expectation of it being here next week, by any means. And I'm sidelined with a fractured heel for a few more months, so it's not like I can ride anyway (Note: walking on the beach is dangerous).
I order an fm936 (SL, M) from Carbonda 3 weeks ago.
It was shipped after 3 days and arrived 4 days later at my doorstep in Berkeley.
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I order an fm936 (SL, M) from Carbonda 3 weeks ago.
It was shipped after 3 days and arrived 4 days later at my doorstep in Berkeley.
Wait... WHAT?!!! ;) Was this with the regular shipping, or did you get a faster option? Wing did reconfirm my shipping address (in SF) on Monday, so hopefully I'll be seeing a tracking number by the end of the week.
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Wait... WHAT?!!! ;) Was this with the regular shipping, or did you get a faster option? Wing did reconfirm my shipping address (in SF) on Monday, so hopefully I'll be seeing a tracking number by the end of the week.
Air shipping ($195).
If there is a cheaper option, I was not aware of it.
BTW, I built this immediately and I've already ridden it 4 times .. and it's awesome :)
My only tip is to re-tighten the linkage bolts, as others suggested: mine were all loose.
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Air shipping ($195).
If there is a cheaper option, I was not aware of it.
BTW, I built this immediately and I've already ridden it 4 times .. and it's awesome :)
My only tip is to re-tighten the linkage bolts, as others suggested: mine were all loose.
I got quoted $190 shipping/single frame, so I’m guessing that’s probably the same method of transit that yours got. Still haven’t gotten tracking info yet.
Not too worried about the hardware being loose, as I’m pulling it all apart & sending the frame out for paint. I’ll measure all the hardware & replace what I can with stainless or Ti.
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Hi there. What color code is this? I'm thinking of something like this color, maybe RAL5000 "violet blue" with glitter. I like this look and couldn't find what code this or zilcho's color codes are. May be ordering a FM 909 or 936. Thanks for any help
I just sent them a picture of Zilcho's frame and they did it exactly the same! :) still love the colour and the pain quality is great.
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For everyone running a RockShox Deluxe Nude with a two-position remote (TwistLoc, OneLoc, etc), how has the rear shock action been? I know that there is a difference in the amount of cable pull between the two-position remotes and the Nude-specific three-position ones, so the "locked" position winds up deep into the "trail/firm" setting instead of fully locked. How does the suspension action/feel when the rear end is "locked" using a two-position remote? Any noticeable bobbing under hard efforts, etc? The RS-1 going on the front has the C2 damper, which is either open or locked, so I can't use a CTD style remote lever. Besides the CTD levers looking like an awful mess of cables everywhere, I need to keep that space on the bars free for the Reverb remote.
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Want to show you probably the most cost effective build in this epic thread - sub $2150 and sub 11.9 kg.
I was building it as do-it-all bike (for a guy with xc background), staying on budget but without major compromises in performance. Most parts were new, some second hand and some were taken from my spare parts box.
Specs (without some minor parts):
frame: Carbonda FM936, L, BSA73, matte black
shock: SR Suntour Unair LO-R8 165x40
fork: Manitou Markhor boost 120mm
wheels: Duroc 30 rims + ARC hubs + Sapim D-Light
tyres: Nobby Nic 2.35 + Rocket Ron 2.25
cranks: Descendant 6K DUB 170mm
chainring: 32T 3mm offset
bottom bracket: Sram DUB-BSA
shifter: GX 12sp
chain: YBN S12 S2
cassette: Sroad 10-50T 12sp
derailleur: SLX RD-M7100
dropper: Brand-X 150mm
dropper lever: ZTTO
saddle: Chineese carbon
brakes: Formula RX
rotors: Toopre 180F 160R
pedals: CrankBros Candy X
handlebar: low-riser 720x9
grips: Chineese silicone
barends: Meroca
stem: 35mm
bottle cage: "Bontrager" carbon
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Thanks both of you! I was aware that other 165 shocks are all the same. I just wasn't sure if the proprietary nude changed something that effected that or what size the spacers were. Thanks for all the info!
I think I will go down the same route as you ilyamaksimov. I too would like a little more sensitivity at the beginning. I'm also intrigued by the reduced travel traction mode.
I'm sorry, the stroke measurements were incorrect, the correct stroke is 40mm. Should have squeezed harder on the initial measurement.
the rest of the information is correct
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yes, i combined it with the old twinlock remote
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The frame arrived on Monday. Packed quite well, no damage, won't bore you with the things we all already know. Tossed on some spare wheels, a fork, post, saddle & bars, just to see how it will shape up. I'm going to use the build as part of a short film project, so it's probably going to just sit as-is for a little while until filming starts.
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Hello all
Been following this thread for a while and it's part of the reason I've now ordered a FM936 - so thanks.
I now need parts, pretty sure of the spec I'd like but a question around the rear shock -
Do I need a remote lockout?
Pretty sure I've seen a few posts about one not being needed but as I'm planning to race on it (XCO & Marathons) I think I'd like the option for when I'm mashing the pedals out the saddle - issue is suitable shocks with remote lockouts seem at bit rare currently, or at least in the UK so I don't want to have to search/wait for one if its not needed.
Having read the Vitus Rapide Fs review, a stickered up FM936, on Off.Road.CC and the reviewer who I know to be a good MTB racer did comment on how active the suspension was when pedalling even with higher pressure, which I guess is why I'm deliberating so much!
Any thought appreciated :)
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Do I need a remote lockout?
I think yes if you're going to use your bike as race one. And the best option in your case will be a single remote for both fork and shock - see last 3 or 4 pages of this thread, there were some posts about it.
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Do I need a remote lockout?
Having read the Vitus Rapide Fs review, a stickered up FM936, on Off.Road.CC and the reviewer who I know to be a good MTB racer did comment on how active the suspension was when pedalling even with higher pressure, which I guess is why I'm deliberating so much!
I have the giant anthem fox float dps with 3 pos lockout, not remote.
I'm 70kg and I don't feel all that much bobbing out of the saddle. Even less in the trail mode. different shocks will of course react differently. I don't feel the need to reach for the trail or lockout mode except for fire road climbs or road sections.
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I think yes if you're going to use your bike as race one. And the best option in your case will be a single remote for both fork and shock - see last 3 or 4 pages of this thread, there were some posts about it.
+1 to this. My 936 and my Norco Revolver FS are both set up for Marathon racing, both using the RockShox TwistLoc remote. One thing that can be guaranteed over the course of an XCM or multi-day stage marathon, is that you will have some long, as in several Kms continuous, steady-state climbs or flat sections. Being able to lock out & conserve energy that would otherwise be negated through (even the best setup) suspension bob, giving you that extra little reserve that the other guy may not have. Of course, there's the "race-winning sprint to the line" that all the marketing types will hype up, but it is another useful example of the lockout.
I can honestly say that having the ability to lock out the suspension was an absolute game-changer for races like Breck Epic, which starts a few of its days with several Kms long paved climbs out of town. Not cycling through the suspension, and subsequently expending that energy made for a much more efficient climb, and a slightly easier day... nothing really easy when the race start is nearly 2 miles/3,000M above sea level!!!
NOTE: If you do decide to run suspension with a remote lockout, pay attention to what the default/"remote unlocked" vs suspension default is. Example: Santa Cruz Blur TR uses Fox F&R units paired to a TwistLoc. The default for the suspension is Locked when the TwistLoc is released, where the Twistloc is designed to be used with suspension that defaults to Open. A broken Twistloc resulted in a completely rigid bike for 2/3 of the longest day of Breck... which included 6.5Km of rocky, technical descending. A simple change to a lever-style lockout switch got things going again, but it is something to be aware of when building up your bike. Check, double-check, and re-check again, that all your parts play well together.
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Yesterday I've make a first test ride on our local winter xc track. I've set sags - both front and rear at home, so outside at temperature below zero degrees Celsius I suppose they became pretty close to enduro bike settings :) Despite this I was surprised by suspension feel: no exceeded bobbing, both front and rear felt quite sensitive at the beginning of travel and rather supportive from middle stroke. Traction at the rear was enough for most of icy climb sections even without spiked tyres.
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Re: do I need lock out & the Rapide FS review.
I don't race, I ride local XC with lots of climbing, I don't have a remote lockout. I've fitted a Rock Shox super delux RCT shock which seems to suit the frame really well, I never use the full lock out but do sometimes flip the blue compression adjuster for climbing. In the middle position with the fork unlocked it still climbs well.
I run a 32t chainring which lines up with the main pivot, I did briefly try a 30t but found that it bobbed a whole heap which I didn't like so promptly went back to the 32t (the Rapide FS review bike had a 30t). I recommend a 32t chainring and then a cassette to give you the range you need.
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PS: with the trunnion mount any manual lockout is unreachable on the fly, so if that's important to you get a remote lockout.
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Thanks for the thoughts re remote lockout or not.
Next question, SIDluxe vs Deluxe Nude.
Had a quick scan of threads page.
Like that the SIDluxe has slightly longer stroke @42.5mm, is lighter and simpler - so in theory easier to set up but that is also my concern with it - don't think you can adjust compression without a tune?
Deluxe Nude I believe is designed for Spark, so a similar bike and pretty sure it'll fit (??), has more adjustment with compression dial but is heavier and less stroke @ 40mm
Think I'm leaning towards the SIDluxe due to longer stroke, weight (getting the SL frame) and they must be confident on the factory compression setting given flagship model but don't want to get if I decide it needs a compression tune!
Again, thoughts appreciated :)
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Any news of my 936.
In use and abuse since august 2019, the main pivot become a bit loose probably due to tired bearings.
During maintenance there was also a very little play between rocker arm and frame.
After change in static it seems to be back to normal, not tested yet.
I think more than 2 years with the factory bearings is not that bad, none of them was seized by the way but you must consider i avoid riding too much in bad conditions.
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I think more than 2 years with the factory bearings is not that bad, none of them was seized by the way but you must consider i avoid riding too much in bad conditions.
Not bad as for 2 years of riding. Yesterday I just got the frame (SL, large) and started to builing the XC bike. Still waiting for some parts, so nothing yet to show.
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Where do you actually buy these frames? I can't find a buy button anywhere on the carbonda website.
Cheers.
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Where do you actually buy these frames? I can't find a buy button anywhere on the carbonda website.
Cheers.
It’s all done through email. A mildly clunky process, but their level of customer service is pretty good for this kind of company. Response times are usually between 3 hours and one day, depending on whether you send an email during Shenzhen business hours.
Keep in mind things are a bit rough there right now with China’s aggressive Zero COVID policies. Multi week disruptions are absolutely possible and should be planned for.
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I'm considering a 936. I have a 100mm hardtail xc bike, and would bring the SID fork across to the 936. I'd love to go to a 120mm fork, but it's an extra $700-1000 to do that. What I'm trying to work out, is which shock to get.
1) I see that the Fox shock has spacers, so a 165x40 would work (or is it 37.5 to get 100mm travel?) and could have spacers swapped to go to 42.5 for 120mm travel in the future (or is it to 45mm?).
2) I see there's a RS Nude off the Genius in the right spaces, but also an RS SID that has more adjustment.
What's got me confused, is which tune version of the shock is best? And would the extra adjustments of say the SID enable more tuning and result in a better ride? I've had a Fox on a bike that wasn't what it came with, and had the wrong tune and air can volume for the frame, and could never get it to perform how I'd like until I did volume spacers.
So, anyone able to help? RS Nude, RS SID, Fox (and I think there's a few versions of them), and what factory tune is best?
Thanks
(80kg, xc to light down country riding).
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I can't comment on the tunes, but I'll note there's been some discussion on the frame not actually fitting a x45 stroke shock in most/all sizes. It was pretty deep within the thread though, be careful.
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Thanks, I have read a lot of the thread, and wasn't sure what the final conclusion was on max stroke.
It really seems that there are too many shock options from Fox and Rockshox, and then you add in tunes ... just too many to choose from.
It was said at least that a 40/42.5/45 fox are the same, just with different sag markings and spacers. I'd probably go 165x40, but just unsure of all the models and then the tunes. And if paying say $480 for the DPS performance, and then sending to fox for a tune, that really starts to get up there in price. So maybe the RS Nude off the Scott is closer, but then I see the SID with more adjustments ... can more user adjustable settings overcome a factory tune which doesn't suit the bike/trails/rider?
Hopefully someone has done lots of research and can break it down for me in the the options are 1) Fox DPS XXXX tune, 2) RS nude, 3) x-fusion yyy sort of thing.
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Thanks, I have read a lot of the thread, and wasn't sure what the final conclusion was on max stroke.
It really seems that there are too many shock options from Fox and Rockshox, and then you add in tunes ... just too many to choose from.
It was said at least that a 40/42.5/45 fox are the same, just with different sag markings and spacers. I'd probably go 165x40, but just unsure of all the models and then the tunes. And if paying say $480 for the DPS performance, and then sending to fox for a tune, that really starts to get up there in price. So maybe the RS Nude off the Scott is closer, but then I see the SID with more adjustments ... can more user adjustable settings overcome a factory tune which doesn't suit the bike/trails/rider?
Hopefully someone has done lots of research and can break it down for me in the the options are 1) Fox DPS XXXX tune, 2) RS nude, 3) x-fusion yyy sort of thing.
tune setting depends on your preference for the suspension. If you don't know what you want, choose a linear compression and rebound melody
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If you search in this forum 'Fox DPS' '42.5' , '45' you'll see the answers. I run a giant anthem fox 42.5 dps and the tune is perfect.
General question, would someone be able to make a short video of the left right frame flex when standing/moving on one pedal? just trying to see if mine if normal. Thanks!
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If you're ordering a new Fox DPS, you could order one direct from Fox and have them tune it at the warehouse, will save on some money.
Despite popular opinions, Fox does like two tunes per shock to cover 90% of bikes out there. I'm guessing the base aftermarket tune will be totally fine and should you wish for something different you can spread the cost out by getting it done a season later or so. OR if you're paying for a service anyway, get a used shock and send it in for a tune/service to bring it back to "like new" with the tune you like.
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Has anyone sent a Fox in for service, gotten a tune AND had the travel adjusted?
Curious if they'll do the travel adjustment too (or perhaps it's so easy that I should just do it myself?).
I've got a few months before I'll be ready to buy, so will try to get a shock before then if one comes up for a bargain.
Thanks.
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Size Large built with entirely spare parts. Full GX mechanical, SRAM Rise 60 wheels, 120mm RS-1 & 100mm Deluxe Nude, Reverb, Guide Ultimate brakes, and a few other bits I had kicking around. Haven't weighed it yet, but "ye olde heft-o-meter" feels that it's light enough for a marathon/all-day-ride build. Oh, downtube & chainstay protector were from AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002548747061.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802k0WVmN (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002548747061.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21ef1802k0WVmN)
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So which is it? Does the FM936 gets 107mm or 115mm travel in rear for a 42.5 shock? I'm reading both.
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Anyone tried running a Cane Creek DB IL air?
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So which is it? Does the FM936 gets 107mm or 115mm travel in rear for a 42.5 shock? I'm reading both.
No one knows for sure, it is not an official spec and you have to account for the flex-stays. Someone in here modeled the frame and the best guess is somewhere around 115mm.
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Does somebody know what is the weight of dummy shock which is installed when the frame come?
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Does somebody know what is the weight of dummy shock which is installed when the frame come?
51 grams w/o hardware
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Hello guys, just three questions:
- how does it work with one bottle? can it handle a big one (750ml)? can we have 2 bottles?
- I'm 182 cm tall, did a L is Ok for me?
- Should I go for a 100 or 120 mm fork? (should be a SID SL Select)
Thanks
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Hello guys, just three questions:
- how does it work with one bottle? can it handle a big one (750ml)? can we have 2 bottles?
750 mm bottle fits good, two bottles only possible with special mounts. You can also take a look at FM909 frame that has the same geometry but two bottle mounts
- I'm 182 cm tall, did a L is Ok for me?
I'm 183 with long-ish legs, L fits me good with 35mm stem
- Should I go for a 100 or 120 mm fork? (should be a SID SL Select)
120 will be better 'cause this frame has quite low bottom bracket, and even with 120mm fork it's better to use 170mm cranks
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Does anybody know the exact spec or where I can order this bolt? Stripped mine. Thanks
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Does anybody know the exact spec or where I can order this bolt? Stripped mine. Thanks
Mine was partly stripped after trying to fix my lower pivot issues. The machine shop that cut down the pivot length said it was a unique spec and shape. I found these that match the conical shape of the washer and provide a larger hex interface to hit torque spec, but it sticks out a few millimeters. I don't really notice due to the location and it doesn't interfere with anything.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X9G5KZ9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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I can fit a 1 litre bottle in my small frame.
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Does anybody know the exact spec or where I can order this bolt? Stripped mine. Thanks
I ordered two of this Bolt No.13 directly by Carbonda.
USD 5 per Set
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What do you think? Rs deluxe nude.
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D
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Y
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Y
Rotor on your rear wheel placed in wrong position
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Y
Is this a damper like on the Scott spark 2016?
Does the fork also have 3 positions? Open, Trail, Lockout?
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Is this a damper like on the Scott spark 2016?
Does the fork also have 3 positions? Open, Trail, Lockout?
Yes, is a RS nude 3 position 2016. The fork is a sid 35 ultimate (with sid ultimate SL grafics) 2 positions.
The shox works Great with The 2 positios command.
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Thanks, I have read a lot of the thread, and wasn't sure what the final conclusion was on max stroke.
It really seems that there are too many shock options from Fox and Rockshox, and then you add in tunes ... just too many to choose from.
It was said at least that a 40/42.5/45 fox are the same, just with different sag markings and spacers. I'd probably go 165x40, but just unsure of all the models and then the tunes. And if paying say $480 for the DPS performance, and then sending to fox for a tune, that really starts to get up there in price. So maybe the RS Nude off the Scott is closer, but then I see the SID with more adjustments ... can more user adjustable settings overcome a factory tune which doesn't suit the bike/trails/rider?
Hopefully someone has done lots of research and can break it down for me in the the options are 1) Fox DPS XXXX tune, 2) RS nude, 3) x-fusion yyy sort of thing.
I have the SidLuxe 42.5 in a M M tune and will send it in to be converted to a H M tune. It needs to be High compression and Medium damping.
I have to run it at 280psi to get 20% sag. This high of a psi prevents the shock from getting all 42.5mm of stroke.
Just upgraded wheels and fork. Switched to a 120mm fork and no more pedal strikes.
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...I have the SidLuxe 42.5 in a M M tune and will send it in to be converted to a H M tune. It needs to be High compression and Medium damping...
I have the same, how did you reach the conclusion it needs to be converted ?
Unless a warranty reason, Isn't it something you can do yourself ?
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I've been loving my FM936. Enough I've been putting out some Youtube videos on it. If anyone's wondering how capable this bike is, hopefully these two videos can help answer that.
[https://youtu.be/NbhodHMAkA4][/url]
[https://youtu.be/wiTHJqi-K-w][/url]
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I have the same, how did you reach the conclusion it needs to be converted ?
Unless a warranty reason, Isn't it something you can do yourself ?
I did the leverage ratio calculation of 115mm of suspension divided by 42.5mm of shock stroke. This gives a ratio of 2.75. A value of 2.75 puts it in the high compression ratio category for most shocks.
The part is $18 but everyone is sold out. Sram has released the DIY documents.
https://www.probikesupply.com/products/rockshox-rear-shock-tune-assembly-compression-tune-configurations-sid-luxe-a1
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/tuning-manuals/rockshox-rear-shock-piston-tuning-guide.pdf
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Of note, the trunnion eyelet with remote is starting to trickle out.
I am not sure if this is right eyelet…but I believe the same eyelet for the SidLuxe works for the DeLuxe.
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NS Manual: ".........the frame is disigned to work with single crown xc forks with up to 120mm of travel................use differnet style of forks or forks with longer travel my result in frame failure , possible injury....."
The frame is designed for XC in terms of weight. But most people here want to use it for trail or enduro. You can see this in the statements you keep reading: tendency to recommend a larger frame with a very short stem; search for more suspension travel, "spirit of the (I think he means downhill) bike" ......I think: the real spirit (from the manufacturer) is XC with 100/100mm!
You can do everything, but please don't be surprised if a part fails.
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Of note, the trunnion eyelet with remote is starting to trickle out.
I am not sure if this is right eyelet…but I believe the same eyelet for the SidLuxe works for the DeLuxe.
It is more involved than just swapping eyelets. In addition to the eyelet, you would also need the damper shaft, poppet valve shaft, piston seal head & corresponding shim stacks for the remote specific version of the Deluxe. Only the eyelet & the damper shaft are available through after-market sales.
Also, The SIDLuxe & Deluxe are two different designs, so there is no cross-compatibility. There are some SID luxe 165 x 45 Trunnion Remote shocks out there, but this also has two issues: 1. They are M/L compression/rebound settings, so they would need to be re-valved/new shim stacks installed; 2. 45mm stroke is too long for the 936, and will result in contact between the rear end & seat tube. While there is a travel/stroke limiter for reducing to 42.5 or 40mm, there is no official part number listed, so it is for the most part unobtainable at the moment.
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You can see this in the statements you keep reading: tendency to recommend a larger frame with a very short stem; search for more suspension travel,
Wrong. This is frame with "forward geometry", and it should be used with short stem. Slack head angle + long stem = worst steering ever.
I think: the real spirit (from the manufacturer) is XC with 100/100mm!
...and constant pedal strikes on every tech climb ;)
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...and constant pedal strikes on every tech climb ;)
I honestly don't think the FM936 is functional with a 100mm, I get pedal strike with 120mm and 2.4" tires. I don't understand how anyone can ride it on rocks and that kind of terrain, without damaging cranks.
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I honestly don't think the FM936 is functional with a 100mm, I get pedal strike with 120mm and 2.4" tires. I don't understand how anyone can ride it on rocks and that kind of terrain, without damaging cranks.
https://youtu.be/oPq3_FPmtSE?t=242 , but he rides in World Cup...
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Wrong. This is frame with "forward geometry", and it should be used with short stem. Slack head angle + long stem = worst steering ever.
...and constant pedal strikes on every tech climb ;)
It seems to me that I am being misunderstood: Manufacturer recommendation is 100mm travel and no manufacturer uses very short stems (~40mm). Carbonda, Vitus, except NS-Bikes (they offer a 120mm version but with adapted rocker).
If you get pedal strike (often), maybe you should use a real trail / enduro bike?
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If you get pedal strike (often), maybe you should use a real trail / enduro bike?
With even lower BB height at sag? Are you sure this will help? :D :D :D
As for me, I ride this frame with 120mm fork and 170mm cranks, and in this setup it seems to be quite ok regarding pedal strikes.
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Hi all,
I am thinking to buy a 936 frame but Vitus is going to sell the Rapide FS CRS at £ 2799, around € 3300.
Wouldn't Vitus offer be cheaper than thr option to buy from manufacturer the frame, all the other parts and build it ?
Any other alternative to Vitus in Europe (apart from NS and Bottecchia which are more expensive)?
Thank you
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My build!
As the frame is the same as the Vitus Rapide I was toying with idea of just getting a Vitus as that was good value in 2021, but in 2022 the prices have jumped a fair bit for the same bike, so for me it was as good, if not better value to build up a FM936 myself.
I wanted a fast trail bike that I could race XC on if I felt the need. All parts are sensible, nothing excessive and all functional.
Superlight frame, with Scott Nude shock and Scott twinloc lever that I got to work with the SID ulitmate fork. 'Just Riding Along' XC alu wheelset, Schwalbe tyres, mostly XT transmission, brand-x dropper, fairly bog-standard finishing kit - weight with pedals/cage/frame protection/etc is under 26lb and cost me just over £3000 give or take - not including the 4iiii power meter I decided to get.
Very happy with it. Already raced XC on it and it did very well. Happy I hunted out a remote lockout solution for suspension - love it.
:)
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Hello,
I have a Fox DPS 165x42.5 on the way. Is there any hardware, bolts, or bushings I need to purchase to fit this shock to the FM936?
Many thanks!
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I have a Fox DPS 165x42.5 on the way. Is there any hardware, bolts, or bushings I need to purchase to fit this shock to the FM936?
You'll need 22.2x8 bushing. This one will fit:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_Ddbhbf1
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Awesome! Thanks for the link.
I need something a bit quicker (USA)
Would this work too?
Mountain Bike Bicycle Shock Absorber Bushings Rear Shock Mount Aluminium Alloy Hardware Kit (22.2*8mm) https://a.co/d/5YFit5i
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I think yes and it seems to be exactly the same thing
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Some posts back I said pedal strikes were few, boy I was wrong, I'riding with 100MM front and the Xfusion 165x40
Any suggestions on making the bike higher? Run less sag? Bigger shock?
Otherwise the bike is awesome but rocky climbs this thing sucks.
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Any suggestions on making the bike higher?
120mm fork and 170mm cranks
Run less sag? Bigger shock?
Nope
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With 175mm spindles, a 120 fork, and 42.5mm shock, no strike issue.
The pressure of the fork and shock are by the manual for my weight, nothing special.
But I sync my pedaling with the terrain when things go rough.
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With 175mm spindles, a 120 fork, and 42.5mm shock, no strike issue.
The pressure of the fork and shock are by the manual for my weight, nothing special.
But I sync my pedaling with the terrain when things go rough.
I´m running 170MM, will check if the sag was too much, but I was running the shock open (It has no platform, just open or close) do you usually close/pedal platform when climbing?
What would give me the biggest pedal clearence the shock or the fork? Also going to 42.5MM that add how much of travel 115?120?
thanks Carbonazza!
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I´m running 170MM, will check if the sag was too much, but I was running the shock open (It has no platform, just open or close) do you usually close/pedal platform when climbing?
What would give me the biggest pedal clearence the shock or the fork? Also going to 42.5MM that add how much of travel 115?120?
Unless on a long asphalt or a flat gravel climb, I learned to ride always open.
If I remember well, the 42.5 gives a 110mm travel.
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Unless on a long asphalt or a flat gravel climb, I learned to ride always open.
If I remember well, the 42.5 gives a 110mm travel.
You are running both 120 and 42.5 right? Any Idea on how much sag you run? The difference to pedal striker may either be running to much sag or you running 100 and 40MM
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You are running both 120 and 42.5 right? Any Idea on how much sag you run? The difference to pedal striker may either be running to much sag or you running 100 and 40MM
I ride with the same lenght fork and shock. Front is 20% sag (DVO sapphire, trail fork), rear 27-30% with a RS deluxe rct.
Never lock it. pedalstrikes zero to none with a 170mm crank that is (and is the way to go with the DC bikes which are long slack and low).
Good luck!
PS already biked >8000km with mine, done 2 transalps and serveral alp days even on EWS trails... still loving it.
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You are running both 120 and 42.5 right? Any Idea on how much sag you run? The difference to pedal striker may either be running to much sag or you running 100 and 40MM
I'm on 120, 42.5, 170 cranks, something between 15-20% sag and get pedal strikes even when taking my time in technical rocky areas, its just part of having a bb this low while in chucky stuff. With only 42.5mm of travel, and the headtube angle relative to fork travel, I don't see any suspension changes having a meaningful impact on pedal strikes. Crank length, the terrain you ride, and pedaling style are the only things that will matter. One persons rock garden is another persons flowy singletrack. As others have mentioned, learning to ratchet and pick a good line in heavy rock sections can make a big difference but you're still going to hit any meaningful rocks if you try to pedal. Also, this is not unique to this frame, everyone I ride with on something with modern geo has this issue.
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I have been researching purchasing this frame. I currently have an older 2015ish hardtail. Not sure on the exact model (cant log into my old account on here?? forgot the information)
Anyway my question is regarding my fork. I have a 2015 Reba upgraded with a charger damper, the offset is 46mm. I have 80mm, 100mm, and 120mm airshafts.
Would the 46mm offset work well with this geometry?
thanks for the help.
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Any clydesdales had much luck with this frame? I was originally all set to go on the FM909 (I reeeeeaaaaally want two water bottle mounts) but I'm little too close to the max weight limit I think (max is 275, I'm currently 260 trying to get down to 220-240)...
I hoped I could go with this frame and maybe a 130mm fork (already have)... might give that bottom bracket a little more clearance and set sag high, like 15-20%
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I have been researching purchasing this frame. I currently have an older 2015ish hardtail. Not sure on the exact model (cant log into my old account on here?? forgot the information)
Anyway my question is regarding my fork. I have a 2015 Reba upgraded with a charger damper, the offset is 46mm. I have 80mm, 100mm, and 120mm airshafts.
Would the 46mm offset work well with this geometry?
thanks for the help.
New sid has 44mm offset so you will be very near to the "actual standard".
My first build with this frame was with a reba 120mm probably same model as yours. It works until i swapped to new sid and saw that improved rigidity and debonair are a real improvement especially with a downcountry bike like 936.
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I'm on 120, 42.5, 170 cranks, something between 15-20% sag and get pedal strikes even when taking my time in technical rocky areas, its just part of having a bb this low while in chucky stuff. With only 42.5mm of travel, and the headtube angle relative to fork travel, I don't see any suspension changes having a meaningful impact on pedal strikes. Crank length, the terrain you ride, and pedaling style are the only things that will matter. One persons rock garden is another persons flowy singletrack. As others have mentioned, learning to ratchet and pick a good line in heavy rock sections can make a big difference but you're still going to hit any meaningful rocks if you try to pedal. Also, this is not unique to this frame, everyone I ride with on something with modern geo has this issue.
Thank you Zilcho, my sag was 20%+ I have set to more XC style 15% and the strikes are much less, also put more pressure on the shock going from 35% to 25%
And the bike is actually more comfortable on rocky stuff, seems running more sag on XC forks make the bike more harsh since its already in the part of the stroke that is more progressive.
This video explains well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG84WjHTc1A&t=221s
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Thank you Zilcho, my sag was 20%+ I have set to more XC style 15% and the strikes are much less, also put more pressure on the shock going from 35% to 25%
And the bike is actually more comfortable on rocky stuff, seems running more sag on XC forks make the bike more harsh since its already in the part of the stroke that is more progressive.
This video explains well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG84WjHTc1A&t=221s
I think it depends whoch shock you're using. My rs deluxe uses less then 75% of the stroke with 30% sag, going to 32 orso changed a lot. But notices more peddle bob with it.
I needed the extra travel in the alps (Dolomites), but back home I will go back to 30%.
My 2c
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Compression settings are dynamic property of the shock, nothing to do with sag. You are asking for more linear characteristics, meaning playing with tokens in positive and negative chambers IMHO.
Can you please if possible report back change to tune to H M?
Thanks a lot!
I have the SidLuxe 42.5 in a M M tune and will send it in to be converted to a H M tune. It needs to be High compression and Medium damping.
I have to run it at 280psi to get 20% sag. This high of a psi prevents the shock from getting all 42.5mm of stroke.
Just upgraded wheels and fork. Switched to a 120mm fork and no more pedal strikes.
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Compression settings are dynamic property of the shock, nothing to do with sag. You are asking for more linear characteristics, meaning playing with tokens in positive and negative chambers IMHO.
Can you please if possible report back change to tune to H M?
Thanks a lot!
You're right, but already have M tune and no tokens. I think the frame is very progressive. Thinking about an other shock, maybe a Manitou Mara? I don't think a dvo topaz will fit because of the piggyback.
Or do you have a better solution/option?
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You're right, but already have M tune and no tokens. I think the frame is very progressive. Thinking about an other shock, maybe a Manitou Mara? I don't think a dvo topaz will fit because of the piggyback.
Or do you have a better solution/option?
My frame is set to be delivered Friday, and I have a Mara on the way as well... hopefully it all plays together nicely, I went with the mara because it runs lower than most other shocks and has a max psi of 400, necessary for a clyde like myself. I'll see how much room there is and maaaaaaaybe I can fit a king can on there to improve progressive qualities
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My frame is set to be delivered Friday, and I have a Mara on the way as well... hopefully it all plays together nicely, I went with the mara because it runs lower than most other shocks and has a max psi of 400, necessary for a clyde like myself. I'll see how much room there is and maaaaaaaybe I can fit a king can on there to improve progressive qualities
Which size mara did you order? I can only find 165x40 or 45... There should be spacers to.make it 42.5...but where?
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Which size mara did you order? I can only find 165x40 or 45... There should be spacers to.make it 42.5...but where?
I got the 45, I can make an HDPE spacer to bring the travel down as much as I need. Adding a custom spacer is much easier than trying to destructively remove the aluminum spacer inside the shock.
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210807/f660fb5be6f5d5775b094aef7ab80c36.jpg)
The silver aluminum spacer is what limits the stroke... like I said, I would rather add another spacer than try and cut that off/modify
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Random Update:
I've been using my FM936 setup 165x42.5 rear with 130mm Pike up front and it has been a amazing. Not the fastest but it has been more than capable for a lot of the riding I do. My fork is a 51mm offset and it feels very twitchy with 760mm bars, I imagine 4Xmm offset would suit the bike much better. I setup my Deluxe RT3 shock,off a giant anthem, quite soft and it bottoms out on jumps sometimes but I think with some air tokens I can get it just right. I am 5'11" and bought a large and it does feel a bit long but it is a nice race position vs the short reach position a lot of other bikes I've tried.
I took my bike down to Brown County State Park in Indiana this weekend. Took it down Hobbs Hollow "Jump" trail and it didn't snap. I was probably jumping 1-3 ft in the air and still casing some of the jumps. Normal 2300g layup for reference. I have full confidence in the durability of my frame
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My other question is fitment of the headset bearings,
https://imgur.com/a/PpyGDTy
That is as flush as I can get it, and is not a tight fitment at all i.e. will fall out under its own weight - not like any pressfit bearing I have used before!
I haven't seen it mentioned elsewhere but after several days of chasing down my frame (UPS has been a nightmare) I have this exact issue... I measured the cavity for the bearing and it is a hair over 42mm (42.038), while the bearing and headset sent is IS41 (41mm OD). I emailed them and was told that I was sent the CORRECT hardware and they designed the gap to be way oversized... also aside from that the surface finish in the frame taper where the bearing seats against is atrocious.... even if it was supposed to be a "loose" fit (never heard of a bearing fit with 1mm oversized clearance), that surface finish would in no way provide a solid/even locating surface to spread out a load...
On a lark I decided to look up the spec that NS uses, and they spec a IS41.8 (IS42)... which makes total sense. Do I bother arguing with them or just order the correct headset and move on. Not only that the cap which fits over the bearing doesn't seal against the frame and leaves an obvious gap.... There's no way that can be correct.
I measured the cover and it is 7.5mm thick, after doing some research Can Creek makes a headset with a cap 9mm thick.. which I believe should be adequate....
https://www.jensonusa.com/Cane-Creek-40-IS42-1-18-Headset
This is the first bike I've built so I'm not sure what is traditionally acceptable and what isn't... as a Machinist by trade I can easily machine the cavity to correct the taper and order the correct headset, but I didn't anticipate it requiring this much additional work. I'm almost more inclined to machine an insert and epoxy it in place.. It will increase my stack but give me an absolutely perfect surface for the bearing without potentially sacrificing some of the structural rigidity.
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Hello all! I am 6'2 with 34 inseam and can't decide between a L or XL FM936. Any thoughts or feedback from those who have built theirs up? Thanks!
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Hello all! I am 6'2 with 34 inseam and can't decide between a L or XL FM936. Any thoughts or feedback from those who have built theirs up? Thanks!
go XL. I'm similar, albeit slightly shorter legs and went for a L. It just felt really short when seated and a compromise. yes, the seat tube on the XL is pretty big, but the fit will be better.
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Hello all! I am 6'2 with 34 inseam and can't decide between a L or XL FM936. Any thoughts or feedback from those who have built theirs up? Thanks!
Really depends on what you personally find the most comfortable. I'm about the same size and went for a L because it more closely matches the geo of my current bike that I intend to do all my training on....
What do you currently ride and how does it relate to this frame?
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*snip*
20+ years in the bike industry and keen hobbyist general 'engineer' & DIY framebuilder here... I feel your pain. Some bike stuff is weird and just wouldn't be acceptable in the areas / tolerances you normally work in!
The frame is definitely for the larger 41.8mm size bearing, but it is not designed to be a press fit in my experience. The reaming tool I have measures a hair over 42mm, for example.
In short, I'd stick the 'correct' bearing in there (41.8), and ream the head tube so the bearing surface is nice and clean. That should do the trick. You can buy just one of these bearings separately if you need, and all the other hardware you've got already will work just fine.
The 'next level' would be to get a nice quality headset, something like the one you linked to, with a top plate that actually is the correct height and has a seal - however, don't be alarmed if you have to spend some time tinkering to make that happen, there really isn't much of a 'standard' for how much bearings stick up out of top headset cups!
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Shifting issues. Transmission or frame/hanger?
Had my FM936 built up for a few months now, 500miles and enjoyed it for the most part aside from one, rather major grumble.
Since day one I've not been able to get the gears shifting correctly.
Transmission is 12speed XT (cassette, mech, shifter, chain, optislick inner cable that I then upgraded to the polymer, SP41 outer cable).Yes, cable routed correctly. It's always a little out and as 12speed sprockets and chains are so narrow a little out is almost intolerable. It alters during the ride, i.e 1-2-3 good a start of ride but then not good by the end (even if an easy ride so haven't hit it on a rock, etc). It alters depending on the suspension setting (have a nude shock with 3 settings). It alters during suspension compression. It's never quite right.
I wonder if the clutch on the mech is partially to blame for a number of reasons. Firstly, I know the clutch affects shifting, increasing friction at the shifter and think it alters, ever so slightly where the mech rests after a shift, which if true means that because of suspension movement and chain growth the clutch is constantly 'working' and so minutely affecting where the mech sits and given how minute adjustments affect shifting it must be having an impact.
But also wonder if the clutch is actually causing the hanger to bend - as I say when the suspension is compressing causing chain growth it's effectively pulling at the clutch, and so mech, and so mech hanger all the time - it must be having an impact - which is kind of confirmed that when I check the hanger alignment with the tool it's always ever so slight out - is it plausible? Maybe the hangers on these fm936 are a little soft?
I've serviced the clutch, and backed off the tension as much as I dare and it is better but I just dont like the fact I feel like I'm having to compromise on a nice bike!
Like the idea of 1x12 but just seems to sensitive or is it the hanger/frame? - bring back 2 x 10 I say ;)
Any thoughts appreciated.
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Moet likely your hanger is bend. And no way it's because of your 1x drivetrain.
Other thing I had: you have to check how you did the cable at your derrailer!
No way I will ever go back to 2x or 3x drivetrain...like going back to horse and wagon.
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when I check the hanger alignment with the tool it's always ever so slight out - is it plausible?
I would say definitely yes.
Maybe the hangers on these fm936 are a little soft?
Actually it's normal. Changed already two after hits by rocks. I have some cusom milled hangers and it's way more stiffer but I would like to bend another hanger instead of mech:)
Transmission is 12speed XT (cassette, mech, shifter, chain, optislick inner cable that I then upgraded to the polymer, SP41 outer cable).
Does it requires different hanger like on some other frames?
I finally killed my gx derailer and wanna try new shimano stuff. I read shimano 12 speed shifter/mech should work with 11 speed cassettes with no problems.
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Meet another one red carbonda 8)
Oh, I think I can share some experience and write some review already. May be it helps to someone.
Rode ~120 hours, ~1700km, through winter, week in mountains, ~10 xco/xcm races.
So I must say it's the most chill an forgiving bike that I have. It doesn't feel like a typical xc bike when you move yourself around all the time on tech sections and may be sometimes trying to survive. It's something like "hey boi relax and stay on pedals, I do the rest". And here is the caveat - now I ride tech section with greater speed and confidence so mistakes became "more expensive". Overall it's an xc bike that feels like older enduro in my opinion and I love it.
Little notes about setup and hardware:
1. 120mm on the front - just great. Feels like infinite amount of suspension. Actually I can't imagine this frame with 100mm on the front. Bb is quite low on my taste.
2. No remote locks. I decided to not take part in races this season so no need to lockouts I thought. But this season already the most race filled season I ever had ;D. And you know what? It turns out that remote lockouts not so required as I thought before.
3. 720 bar switched to 760 riser with 45mm stem. Just +100 to handling and confidence on descents with a little penalty on narrow sections. +10mm headset spacer for even better feeling, but it's no go for xc races for me.
4. SDG Tellis dropper - just piece of shite. Those cheaper brandx/tranzx much better.
5. Changed already 3 lower bearings on headset. It's just starting creacking and it becomes worse. I should try to trim fork crown may be.
6. Tried to run "dropperless" but it's sooooooo uncomfortable. Saddle being not in that position like on my previous xc bikes so it limits butt movements more than ever. Not a problem on learned race courses but I'm too lazy to swap seatposts.
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4. SDG Tellis dropper - just piece of shite. Those cheaper brandx/tranzx much better.
Nice review, thanks!
Tell please a lil bit more about your experience with sdg dropper. A was always thinking that it is nearly the same beast as tranz x/brand x (which are also crap imho).
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Tell please a lil bit more about your experience with sdg dropper. A was always thinking that it is nearly the same beast as tranz x/brand x (which are also crap imho).
So I had both tranz x and brand x and it's not the best thing but for that price it's acceptable. When I assembled carbonda I decided to try something better and somehow sdg tellis was the amazing dropper by magazine and user reviews. Ok, take my money. It turns out that for the double priced brand x you get a brand x but with huge play from the box, absolute crappy bushings and seal that doesn't work. Seal by itself may be not bad at all but sdg did a genious move - they made a moving part (shaft?) not slick like stanchions of your fork for example but ribbed. See the problem? Tons of dust below seal especialy in wet conditions. On the last race it's just stuck (was a lot of water) with full of dirt under the seal. Never had any problems with cheaper droppers. Now I can't decide what to try next: trusted brand x or something else.
Also much appreciate theirs 120 hours service video, lol. "Just rub stanchion, put some grease inside and go for a ride". No way it works:)
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Seal by itself may be not bad at all but sdg did a genious move - they made a moving part (shaft?) not slick like stanchions of your fork for example but ribbed.
Ribbed shaft is totally bad (and it is just their way of lowering production costs). On my brand x seal is the weakest part - it simply allow the dirt to get inside. As a result I'm rebuilding my dropper on a regular basis, but it lost almost a half of its anodized coating (on the shaft), especially on the back side. My old ks lev intergra, which is now living on my gf's bike, have never had such problems and still looks like new.
Probably you have to try one up, a lot of people like their droppers.
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@PrincessZeeeeta -- She's a beauty! Thanks for the review info. What stem and bars did you go with? They look great and sounds like they are performing well. I just ordered fm936s for my sons and would like to mirror your setup! Thanks!!
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@PrincessZeeeeta -- She's a beauty! Thanks for the review info. What stem and bars did you go with? They look great and sounds like they are performing well. I just ordered fm936s for my sons and would like to mirror your setup! Thanks!!
Since we are at it, what is this great looking rear mudguard ?
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What stem and bars did you go with? They look great and sounds like they are performing well. I just ordered fm936s for my sons and would like to mirror your setup! Thanks!!
It's just a single one that I found locally not in 800mm width. Raceface Next 35 with Turbine R (it's just looks good for me). Pretty expensive but after a couple of crashes it's still alive so can recommend it. By the way it has a backsweep of 8 degrees so it may not be comfortable for everyone.
Since we are at it, what is this great looking rear mudguard ?
Sks Mudrocker. Ligher and softer than mudhugger so rattling occures often.
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Shifting issues. Transmission or frame/hanger?
Had my FM936 built up for a few months now, 500miles and enjoyed it for the most part aside from one, rather major grumble.
Since day one I've not been able to get the gears shifting correctly.
Transmission is 12speed XT (cassette, mech, shifter, chain, optislick inner cable that I then upgraded to the polymer, SP41 outer cable).Yes, cable routed correctly. It's always a little out and as 12speed sprockets and chains are so narrow a little out is almost intolerable. It alters during the ride, i.e 1-2-3 good a start of ride but then not good by the end (even if an easy ride so haven't hit it on a rock, etc). It alters depending on the suspension setting (have a nude shock with 3 settings). It alters during suspension compression. It's never quite right.
I wonder if the clutch on the mech is partially to blame for a number of reasons. Firstly, I know the clutch affects shifting, increasing friction at the shifter and think it alters, ever so slightly where the mech rests after a shift, which if true means that because of suspension movement and chain growth the clutch is constantly 'working' and so minutely affecting where the mech sits and given how minute adjustments affect shifting it must be having an impact.
But also wonder if the clutch is actually causing the hanger to bend - as I say when the suspension is compressing causing chain growth it's effectively pulling at the clutch, and so mech, and so mech hanger all the time - it must be having an impact - which is kind of confirmed that when I check the hanger alignment with the tool it's always ever so slight out - is it plausible? Maybe the hangers on these fm936 are a little soft?
I've serviced the clutch, and backed off the tension as much as I dare and it is better but I just dont like the fact I feel like I'm having to compromise on a nice bike!
Like the idea of 1x12 but just seems to sensitive or is it the hanger/frame? - bring back 2 x 10 I say ;)
Any thoughts appreciated.
Derailleur hanger - you know this is the culprit when the shifting degrades in only the middle cogs. If it shifts fine at the ends of cassette, but skips or clunks or is reluctant to shift in the middle three cogs, then it’s likely your hanger.
If it happens all the time, in every gear, and is triggered by the suspension then it’s likely not the hanger. Start by disconnecting the shift cable and setting your limit with the cable disconnected. Go ride the street. There shouldn’t be any clunks or anything no matter what you try to do.
Then, screw the barrel adjust all the way in, back into two full turns. Connect the derailleur cable. Increase tension or decrease tension until you get a smooth shift from smallest cog to second smallest. Listen to the sound. Play with the tension until the noise from the chain is reduced.
Then, work up the cassette and check your upper limit.
If you still have problems then there is something wrong with your cable routing or derailleur or cassette.
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Hi, I have bought a fm936 size L, normal lay up and feel like there is a lack of stiffness in the front triangle : it wiggles significantly more than my other bikes when pushing left right with the bar. I have not read any complain about this anywhere. I have changed the fork for a 35 mm, but still have a strange feeling in the turns that came from this lowish stiffness I think. I have a on one scandal definitively stiffer.
Am I the only one feeling this ? I start thinking that my frame has an issue.
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Hi, I have bought a fm936 size L, normal lay up and feel like there is a lack of stiffness in the front triangle : it wiggles significantly more than my other bikes when pushing left right with the bar. I have not read any complain about this anywhere. I have changed the fork for a 35 mm, but still have a strange feeling in the turns that came from this lowish stiffness I think. I have a on one scandal definitively stiffer.
Am I the only one feeling this ? I start thinking that my frame has an issue.
The rear can be a bit flexible, but the front? Don't know how this could happen.
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...it wiggles significantly ...
Did you check if your headset is tight ?
Can you spot where the wiggles comes from?
A triangle of carbon tubes like this, can't really flex, unless cracked.
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Just a heads up for those interested. In my conversations with Wing, trying to decide between the FM1001 and FM909, for a DC type bike, he mentioned that the FM936 may be offered to end users with official provision of 115-120mm rear travel - (N.B. they already do this for brands).
I was really hoping for a 909DC rather than 936DC, as the dirt is so fine and so much of it here, that it's like riding powdery snow on some trails. I've decided high horizontal rear shock mount is definitely the way to go.
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Just a heads up for those interes
I was really hoping for a 909DC rather than 936DC, as the dirt is so fine and so much of it here, that it's like riding powdery snow on some trails. I've decided high horizontal rear shock mount is definitely the way to go.
InMy opinion it doesn't really matter where the shock is. Dirt will find its way. But after riding the 936 for 2 years now I can say the shock won't be dirty, but there will be a pile up of dirt below it, in the space for the trunnion mount.
The onely reason to have a vertical shock is space for 2 bottles...thats it!
My2c
Good lich with the 909.
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Hi, I have bought a fm936 size L, normal lay up and feel like there is a lack of stiffness in the front triangle : it wiggles significantly more than my other bikes when pushing left right with the bar. I have not read any complain about this anywhere. I have changed the fork for a 35 mm, but still have a strange feeling in the turns that came from this lowish stiffness I think. I have a on one scandal definitively stiffer.
Am I the only one feeling this ? I start thinking that my frame has an issue.
the feeling that the frame is bending can come from using a stem longer than 50mm. From using a 51mm offset fork. Due to the 66-degree head angle with a long stem and large fork offset, the bike becomes over-steered, giving the feeling of a flex frame. The front triangle is very rigid. The rear may have some suppleness, but you don't feel it when driving.
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Hello community,
I am planning to buy a 936 or 909 frame. As is the case, I can't decide between sizes M and L. Is there anyone here who lives not far from Cologne in Germany? I would like to try an M or L bike for a moment.
Thanks very much!
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Just a heads up for those interested. In my conversations with Wing, trying to decide between the FM1001 and FM909, for a DC type bike, he mentioned that the FM936 may be offered to end users with official provision of 115-120mm rear travel - (N.B. they already do this for brands).
I was really hoping for a 909DC rather than 936DC, as the dirt is so fine and so much of it here, that it's like riding powdery snow on some trails. I've decided high horizontal rear shock mount is definitely the way to go.
That sounds very interesting, rear travel was more or less the only reason I didn't go for the 936 in the first place. If you put a 130mm fork on the bike together with a dedicated 120mm rear end its geometry is almost Rocky Mountain Element like and that would be a big reason to reconsider ...
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That sounds very interesting, rear travel was more or less the only reason I didn't go for the 936 in the first place. If you put a 130mm fork on the bike together with a dedicated 120mm rear end its geometry is almost Rocky Mountain Element like and that would be a big reason to reconsider ...
But the element can hold two water bottles in the front triangle :'(
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the feeling that the frame is bending can come from using a stem longer than 50mm. From using a 51mm offset fork. Due to the 66-degree head angle with a long stem and large fork offset, the bike becomes over-steered, giving the feeling of a flex frame. The front triangle is very rigid. The rear may have some suppleness, but you don't feel it when driving.
I have the same issue with my normal frame. Also with 51mm fork and 80mm stem.
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I found the steering way too slow/sloppy with a 120mm fork and any stem length longer than 60mm, but that is to be expected with a 66 HTA.
IMO a 50mm stem is probably about the sweet spot for that HTA.
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Arghh...finding a creak resulted in changing and/or servicing bearings, checking bb and check hubs, but without cluck.
The first time two years ago it was because of a to long bolt (lower bearing) which resulted in a new rear tringle from carbonda. Second time it was due to a stuck bearing. Third and fourth time my hub was broken... But now...
(https://i.ibb.co/Dbv2C6Z/20220825-170119.jpg) (https://ibb.co/vBTnPrS)
(https://i.ibb.co/8BmGbB4/20220825-170255.jpg) (https://ibb.co/FWhcXWq)
Don't know it is there. Seems a crack in the frame, not only cosmetic. And no, I didn't fit a to big bolt in there.
Hopefully Adam from Carbonda can help me
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Arghh...finding a creak resulted in changing and/or servicing bearings, checking bb and check hubs, but without cluck.
The first time two years ago it was because of a to long bolt (lower bearing) which resulted in a new rear tringle from carbonda. Second time it was due to a stuck bearing. Third and fourth time my hub was broken... But now...
Don't know it is there. Seems a crack in the frame, not only cosmetic. And no, I didn't fit a to big bolt in there.
Hopefully Adam from Carbonda can help me
Think something impacted there? I'd guess thats why a chunk is broken off and the crack extends from that.. depending what Carbonda says, I'd sand away and see what it looks like under the paint.
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Think something impacted there? I'd guess thats why a chunk is broken off and the crack extends from that.. depending what Carbonda says, I'd sand away and see what it looks like under the paint.
That's what I'm planning to do. But repair will not be cheap...
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That's what I'm planning to do. But repair will not be cheap...
adam confirmed, crash impact no warrenty.
His advice was ta sand the crack and check how bad it is. I think it's brokem beyond repair just by biking wiht it...creaks are getting worse :-\
I'm waiting on reply how much it cost to replace and how much a fm 1002 will cost as an extra 8) (would love to have an real rrail/AM bike for the alps adn parks.
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the feeling that the frame is bending can come from using a stem longer than 50mm. From using a 51mm offset fork. Due to the 66-degree head angle with a long stem and large fork offset, the bike becomes over-steered, giving the feeling of a flex frame. The front triangle is very rigid. The rear may have some suppleness, but you don't feel it when driving.
Thanks to all of you for your reply. I have a 120 mm SID with 44 mm offset and a 60 mm stem. I have never experienced such a feeling with my On one scandal and its 64° HA (because I run a 140 mm fork) and same 60 mm stem. However, when riding, the HA decreases on a hardtail which is not the case on a full susp due to shock compression, so you may get a point. Anyway it's right that the difference in front triangle stiffness is subtle when being static and cannot explain entirely my feeling. I will try a shorter stem, I have never thought it could give such a feeling.
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Thanks to all of you for your reply. I have a 120 mm SID with 44 mm offset and a 60 mm stem. I have never experienced such a feeling with my On one scandal and its 64° HA (because I run a 140 mm fork) and same 60 mm stem. However, when riding, the HA decreases on a hardtail which is not the case on a full susp due to shock compression, so you may get a point. Anyway it's right that the difference in front triangle stiffness is subtle when being static and cannot explain entirely my feeling. I will try a shorter stem, I have never thought it could give such a feeling.
Ahhh your reverence is a scandal. I have the same bike and it feels totally different as a fm936. I recemtly shortened the stem to 35mm. That's really what the scandal needed, otherwise way toooo slow. The difference in headangle could be the reason.
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Just a heads up for those interested. In my conversations with Wing, trying to decide between the FM1001 and FM909, for a DC type bike, he mentioned that the FM936 may be offered to end users with official provision of 115-120mm rear travel - (N.B. they already do this for brands).
That would mean that they would need a different rear trangle...maybe the same one that ist used on the Ican S3 without flex stays.
Did he mention when this might be available?
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Don't know it is there. Seems a crack in the frame, not only cosmetic. And no, I didn't fit a to big bolt in there.
Hopefully Adam from Carbonda can help me
Without seeing deeper, my guess would be corrosion from the brake insert has led to a breakage. I emphasise that this is a big guess though.
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adam confirmed, crash impact no warrenty.
His advice was ta sand the crack and check how bad it is. I think it's brokem beyond repair just by biking wiht it...creaks are getting worse :-\
I'm waiting on reply how much it cost to replace and how much a fm 1002 will cost as an extra 8) (would love to have an real rrail/AM bike for the alps adn parks.
So new rear is on his way...with also a Fm1002 size medium 8)
I did asked Adam about the new 120mm rear end, ot will be coming end of the year with what I understand a new linkage.
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So new rear is on his way...with also a Fm1002 size medium 8)
I did asked Adam about the new 120mm rear end, ot will be coming end of the year with what I understand a new linkage.
How much did the rear cost?
I'm swooning pretty hard over the 1002.... but if another bike box shows up at my house I think my wife will murder me, lol
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How much did the rear cost?
I'm swooning pretty hard over the 1002.... but if another bike box shows up at my house I think my wife will murder me, lol
300us excl 65us transport
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I did asked Adam about the new 120mm rear end, ot will be coming end of the year with what I understand a new linkage.
- is that the NSBikes Synonym TR rear end? Is that when NSBikes exclusive right to it expires?
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I did asked Adam about the new 120mm rear end, ot will be coming end of the year with what I understand a new linkage.
- is that the NSBikes Synonym TR rear end? Is that when NSBikes exclusive right to it expires?
Dont know. Ns uses a different linkage and a different rear triangle. I looked as if he couldn't tell more. We have to wait.
I personally don't think it will be that different with what I'm currently running: 165x42.5...
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Dont know. Ns uses a different linkage and a different rear triangle. I looked as if he couldn't tell more. We have to wait.
I personally don't think it will be that different with what I'm currently running: 165x42.5...
Please don't tell us it is great, or we will all have to upgrade ;)
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https://www.mbr.co.uk/reviews/full-suspension-bikes/vitus-rapide-fs-crx-review
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Hi All,
I have a Vitus branded copy of the 936 (last year's model). It has a SID Luxe Shock with a maximum pressure rating of 325 PSI. At 188 cm and 83 kg (around 6'2 and 183 lb) on an XL frame I find that even at the maximum pressure for the shock of 325 PSI I have 30% sag. Whilst this is OK, I would be interested in experimenting with more like 25% sag or possibly adding a 120mm fork (instead of the stock 100 mm) which would shift weight back increasing load on the rear shock.
Is this normal? Are there other shocks that can cope with higher weights and larger riders on this frame design? Whilst I am no racing snake, I am at the shorter end for an XL and not that fat so suprised to run into this issue!
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Hi All,
I have a Vitus branded copy of the 936 (last year's model). It has a SID Luxe Shock with a maximum pressure rating of 325 PSI. At 188 cm and 83 kg (around 6'2 and 183 lb) on an XL frame I find that even at the maximum pressure for the shock of 325 PSI I have 30% sag. Whilst this is OK, I would be interested in experimenting with more like 25% sag or possibly adding a 120mm fork (instead of the stock 100 mm) which would shift weight back increasing load on the rear shock.
Is this normal? Are there other shocks that can cope with higher weights and larger riders on this frame design? Whilst I am no racing snake, I am at the shorter end for an XL and not that fat so suprised to run into this issue!
Is it possible that your pump is showing the wrong pressure? I am 78kg and frame L. Deluxe Nude and fox dps work at 25% sag at 200-220psi
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Fox float X, and Manitou Mara both have higher pressure ratings (Float X- 350 and Manitou Mara 400). On my Mara I’m running around 225 for 20% sage at 265lbs
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Hi All,
I have a Vitus branded copy of the 936 (last year's model). It has a SID Luxe Shock with a maximum pressure rating of 325 PSI. At 188 cm and 83 kg (around 6'2 and 183 lb) on an XL frame I find that even at the maximum pressure for the shock of 325 PSI I have 30% sag. Whilst this is OK, I would be interested in experimenting with more like 25% sag or possibly adding a 120mm fork (instead of the stock 100 mm) which would shift weight back increasing load on the rear shock.
Is this normal? Are there other shocks that can cope with higher weights and larger riders on this frame design? Whilst I am no racing snake, I am at the shorter end for an XL and not that fat so suprised to run into this issue!
I have the very same issue on my 2021 Vitus Rapide FS with the SID Luxe shock. I'm 65kg and can't put enough pressure into the unit within the maximum range to have less than 25% sag - I would like to run 20% ideally...
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Thanks for the replies.
I checked the pressure with my other pump and got pretty much the same pressure. I have used the pumps on another bike and got pretty much bang on the manufacturer's predicted numbers so I don't think they are massively innacurate.
It is interesting that someone else with a SID Luxe has the same issue. It is a physically small shock so I wonder if it produces less force for the same pressure than the others that have been mentioned (smaller area for the pressure to act on?). I don't know if there is a way of finding out this information for different shocks?
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About shock pressure, do you easily go to max travel?
I run around 25% sag with 42,5 fox and i often end with using only 3/4 of the travel.
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I posted this a long time ago.
Reposting a comment I made earlier in the thread when asked about my shock setup, Please note with all my gear and water, I am closer to 80kg and my frame is a medium so copying my settings is a bad idea. I put a picture of my gap below. Here is the comment from earlier:
I counted 10 clicks from full rebound toward softer, At just under 200psi. I bet the shock behaves differently on a larger frame.
For the newer people like me, when you pump up the rear shock make sure to equalize the chambers by compressing to 25% about 20 times. Then check the sag and PSI again. Also, this shock tune is: 2018, FLOAT DPS, P-S, A, 3pos, Trunnion Evol LV, Giant, Anthem 27.5 2, 165, 42.5, 0.8 Spacer, DCM, DRM, CML, YS 2272/YS 2272 Logo
That 0.8 spacer means bottoming out the rear shock is really tough. Thats why I go for such low rebound, with semi-high pressure. Of course, I dont really know what I am doing. :P
I also dont think the low BB is very noticeable. Not a big deal, has its advantages.
Still running the shock with a 0.8 spacer a progressive tune and just under 200 psi. It bottoms out on 3ft+ drops.
Funny enough, the low BB drives me crazy now and pushed to building my FM1002 (which I am loving, but isn't as good for big climbs).
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Thanks for the replies.
I checked the pressure with my other pump and got pretty much the same pressure. I have used the pumps on another bike and got pretty much bang on the manufacturer's predicted numbers so I don't think they are massively innacurate.
It is interesting that someone else with a SID Luxe has the same issue. It is a physically small shock so I wonder if it produces less force for the same pressure than the others that have been mentioned (smaller area for the pressure to act on?). I don't know if there is a way of finding out this information for different shocks?
I have the same issue but described differently. The SidLuxe Ultimate I have is a M M tune. I want to try a High compression tune.
It’s not a hard service. I posted the links in an earlier thread. Parts were sold out in the Spring but are $18 if you can find them.
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https://geared.bike/jack-rabbit
Found another US based company selling the FM936. At least it's half the cost as the Boltcutter Groove Pony
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Interessting that they specify it with 120mm rear travel and a 165 x 45 mm shock. I thought only 165 x 42,5 mm would fit into the frame.
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https://geared.bike/jack-rabbit
Found another US based company selling the FM936. At least it's half the cost as the Boltcutter Groove Pony
That’s basically the same price as buying from Carbonda
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Regarding the sag issues on the SID Luxe. There are a lot of assumptions on my part; I am trying to figure this issue out so please correct me if I have anything wrong! The big uncertainty for me is how to understand the impact of the negative spring.
I have taken measurements on a few shocks that I have access to in order to try and compare the area of the piston. I figure this should be proportional to the force the shock produces at a given pressure - but I might be mistaken. I have measured from the outer diameter of the piston seal minus the diameter of the central shaft. For the uncompressed shock, this should mean that to produce the same force as a SID Luxe at its maximum pressure of 330 PSI, a fox DPS would need 290 PSI (max 350) and a RockShox Super Deluxe 230 PSI.
To me this suggests that the SIDLuxe is probably just a bit weedy for the suspension design of the FM936 and taller/heavier riders. It suggests that a fox DPS should be suitable; it should produce ~20% more force at max pressure. I need to work out the impact on equivalent sag at max pressure (taking my current 30-35% for the SID Luxe as a starting point). However, I will probably get a RS Deluxe Nude; I think these are the same basic air can as the deluxe so should have more margin than the DPS and are also one of the cheaper shocks that I have found in 165x40 mm that is remote compatible.
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I did the leverage ratio calculation of 115mm of suspension divided by 42.5mm of shock stroke. This gives a ratio of 2.75. A value of 2.75 puts it in the high compression ratio category for most shocks.
The part is $18 but everyone is sold out. Sram has released the DIY documents.
https://www.probikesupply.com/products/rockshox-rear-shock-tune-assembly-compression-tune-configurations-sid-luxe-a1
https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/tuning-manuals/rockshox-rear-shock-piston-tuning-guide.pdf
Don’t spend more than $18 to update the tune of your SidLuxe.
Has anyone done this?
I will be doing this service over the winter.
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Regarding the sag issues on the SID Luxe. There are a lot of assumptions on my part; I am trying to figure this issue out so please correct me if I have anything wrong! The big uncertainty for me is how to understand the impact of the negative spring.
I have taken measurements on a few shocks that I have access to in order to try and compare the area of the piston. I figure this should be proportional to the force the shock produces at a given pressure - but I might be mistaken. I have measured from the outer diameter of the piston seal minus the diameter of the central shaft. For the uncompressed shock, this should mean that to produce the same force as a SID Luxe at its maximum pressure of 330 PSI, a fox DPS would need 290 PSI (max 350) and a RockShox Super Deluxe 230 PSI.
To me this suggests that the SIDLuxe is probably just a bit weedy for the suspension design of the FM936 and taller/heavier riders. It suggests that a fox DPS should be suitable; it should produce ~20% more force at max pressure. I need to work out the impact on equivalent sag at max pressure (taking my current 30-35% for the SID Luxe as a starting point). However, I will probably get a RS Deluxe Nude; I think these are the same basic air can as the deluxe so should have more margin than the DPS and are also one of the cheaper shocks that I have found in 165x40 mm that is remote compatible.
Se my post above. If you are running the 40mm stroke the equation could be 115/40 or 100/40.
This frame needs a High Compression tune.
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Se my post above. If you are running the 40mm stroke the equation could be 115/40 or 100/40.
This frame needs a High Compression tune.
I don't think it "needs" a high compression tune. The shock you're using is designed for xc racing in mind not using it for light enduro racing or heavy people. So a higher compression tune will only help a bit, just like adding more spacers or putting more air in it. you first have to look what your issue is...not enough midstroke support: more air or more spacers(keep the same pressure); bottoming out the same options... If those things wont help Indon't think changing tune will help...an other shock like a deluxe will likely help more=bigger shock, better support.
Last thing...sag is a method for getting your shock in the right direction, not the holy grail. Setting it to high or to low as intended by the manufacturer won't do any good either. If your bb is to low first think of shorter cranks ;)
And using it with less sag as advised by the manufacturer is
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I don't think it "needs" a high compression tune. The shock you're using is designed for xc racing in mind not using it for light enduro racing or heavy people. So a higher compression tune will only help a bit, just like adding more spacers or putting more air in it. you first have to look what your issue is...not enough midstroke support: more air or more spacers(keep the same pressure); bottoming out the same options... If those things wont help with bottoming out I don't think changing tune will. an other shock like a deluxe will likely help more=bigger shock, better support.
Last thing...sag is a method for getting your shock in the right direction, not the holy grail. Setting it to high or to low as intended by the manufacturer won't do any good either. If your bb is to low first think of shorter cranks ;)
My 2c. Like to hear other thoughts about it.
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Agree, definitely doesn’t need. But, for the symptoms described:
1. High pressure needed to achieve an XC style sag (20-25%)
2. High pressure prevents full travel
I have been riding the shock at 35% sag. Not an issue. If I am racing I’d consider maximum pressure.
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1. High pressure needed to achieve an XC style sag (20-25%)
It seems that you, like nearly the whole xc crowd, have a huge misunderstanding of correct sag values. 20% of sag means that in theoretical case of totally linear spring (which is of course not so for an air shock) and zero friction between seals you need 5G to achieve full travel. And in real case this force should be even higher. Are you going to do some road gaps or maybe are you going to take some lines on Rampage for getting such G-outs?
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It seems that you, like nearly the whole xc crowd, have a huge misunderstanding of correct sag values. 20% of sag means that in theoretical case of totally linear spring (which is of course not so for an air shock) and zero friction between seals you need 5G to achieve full travel. And in real case this force should be even higher. Are you going to do some road gaps or maybe are you going to take some lines on Rampage for getting such G-outs?
I hear what you are saying and have come to accept 35% sag with my current setup. But, my point with the high compression tune is that I could run lower pressure while having 25% sag. In theory I’m hoping this would give me more active suspension with a better pedal platform.
The funny thing, my buddy with a Hightower won’t run his suspension at 35%. He’s convinced the manufacturer optimized the bike for 25% sag.
Regarding terrain, there are a few spots at my local where too much speed can result in missing the landing zone. I haven’t bottomed out yet…
I have the tune kit. I will install and report back.
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...I will be doing this service over the winter.
I look forward for the details :)
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It seems that you, like nearly the whole xc crowd, have a huge misunderstanding of correct sag values. 20% of sag means that in theoretical case of totally linear spring (which is of course not so for an air shock) and zero friction between seals you need 5G to achieve full travel. And in real case this force should be even higher. Are you going to do some road gaps or maybe are you going to take some lines on Rampage for getting such G-outs?
Totally agree! Why 25%? Most of the rearshocks are designed for more sag giving it a better small bump compliance. Lower sag will cause a more progressive shock with possible to high rebound and not using the travel like it should!
Best thing to do is contacting shock tuner, they can help you and give you the best answer (and likely a answer like this ;))
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In theory I’m hoping this would give me more active suspension with a better pedal platform.
You have to pick one (or use lockout/climb/whatever switch). Active suspension means using linear (velocity-dependant) damper. Pedal platform obviously means using platform-style damper (very high LSC and then nearly constant, velocity-independant damping force when platform opens).
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You have to pick one (or use lockout/climb/whatever switch). Active suspension means using linear (velocity-dependant) damper. Pedal platform obviously means using platform-style damper (very high LSC and then nearly constant, velocity-independant damping force when platform opens).
I’m in denial. I can’t get the shock eyelet with the lockout. There also are very few 42.5 stroke shocks with a lockout.
So, before I go find a shock or try the eyelet swap I’m going to change the tune.
But yes, a lockout is ideal.
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Regarding the sag; For me, I need the SID luxe stuffed with volume spacers to get 35% sag at full pressure, which also results in never using the bottom quarter or so of the travel. My hope is that a bigger shock without volume spacers will use more of the travel. The desire to lift the sag into to 25-30% range is due to the extremely low bottom bracket; when tired in an XC race then minimising the need to manage pedal strikes over roots is desirable! If the sag is a bit less, then the bottom bracket is marginally higher. It probably doesn't make much difference, but having low sag makes you mad at those points!
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will the DVO TOPAZ gen 3 fit this frame?
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Regarding the sag; For me, I need the SID luxe stuffed with volume spacers to get 35% sag at full pressure, which also results in never using the bottom quarter or so of the travel. My hope is that a bigger shock without volume spacers will use more of the travel. The desire to lift the sag into to 25-30% range is due to the extremely low bottom bracket; when tired in an XC race then minimising the need to manage pedal strikes over roots is desirable! If the sag is a bit less, then the bottom bracket is marginally higher. It probably doesn't make much difference, but having low sag makes you mad at those points!
How much do you weigh? I was led to believe more volume means you would need more pressure to maintain the same sag, thats why I can't use the Manitou Mara Pro without buying the smaller can.
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what is the headset size, is41 or is42?
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Never mind, found it
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First post: just made a deposit on a 936 with 120mm - available in 3-4months.
Shock stroke is 42.5, same as NS Synonym with 120mm. EDIT: Got an Email from Katie with a correction. it will take a 165x45 damper. What are my options? I found some RS and Fox options. Also a DVO Topaz - fit? Cane Creek DBAir - fit? Manitou Mara seems to be 40 or 45 only. Are there any options where I can adjust stroke easily myself?
Thanks in advance for sharing your wisdom :)
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First post: just made a deposit on a 936 with 120mm - available in 3-4months. Shock stroke is 42.5, same as NS Synonym with 120mm. What are my options? I found some RS and Fox options. Also a DVO Topaz - fit? Cane Creek DBAir - fit? Manitou Mara seems to be 40 or 45 only. Are there any options where I can adjust stroke easily myself?
Thanks in advance for sharing your wisdom :)
I'm using the Mara with 45 and used a 2.5mm shim to reduce travel.
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Thank you!
I just received an Email from Katie that it is a 165x45 shock! that will make sourcing one much easier.
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Interesting thanks for the info. Does anyone have more information on that?
Is the new 120mm rear end the only change to the frame or is there anything else?
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Interesting thanks for the info. Does anyone have more information on that?
Is the new 120mm rear end the only change to the frame or is there anything else?
Probably it's just the NS Synonym rear triangle. End of 2 year exclusivity I'd imagine.
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Interesting thanks for the info. Does anyone have more information on that?
Is the new 120mm rear end the only change to the frame or is there anything else?
Probably it's just only a new rocker link.
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Why not ask directly instead of speculating ? 8)
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Why not ask directly instead of speculating ? 8)
PraterRadler ask Kathie
Only the rocker link will be modified.
https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/carbonda-fm-936-erfahrungsaustausch.941960/
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A little bit of shameless self-promotion here... but I have a built-then-debuilt but never ridden Vitus-branded one of these frames surplus to my requirements. It's a size small (445mm reach), gloss black, with SidLUXE shock, axle, hanger, seat clamp and dropper cable already routed. Can ship worldwide. It's listed on PinkBike if anyone wants to take a look. I think it should offer a financial and significant time saving over buying from Carbonda.
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Hi All
I just bought one of these, with additional hardware as per some of the issues expressed on this forum.
A few questions in preparation of my build - (the bike is gonna be set up as 100mm XC racer with 165 cranks).
What aftermarket hardware should I buy? (I ordered spare shock and pivot bolts)
What shock (Preferably RS) would suit the frame best?
Will This Fit? https://www.bike24.com/p2397287.html
I notice in the discription it says bushing kit not supplied - Do i need to buy anything to make this fit the frame?
Thank you!
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...Will This Fit? https://www.bike24.com/p2397287.html
I notice in the discription it says bushing kit not supplied - Do i need to buy anything to make this fit the frame?
I have this shock on mine.
Replacing the bushing with an ENDURO BEARING BK-5864 SHOCK NEEDLE BEARING 22,2X8MM
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Thank you Carbonazza! I ordered the 165x40 trunnion version as wing said the 42.5 wont fit . I will order this bushing kit now :)
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Thank you Carbonazza! I ordered the 165x40 trunnion version as wing said the 42.5 wont fit . I will order this bushing kit now :)
Wing is playing conservative, as the frame was designed for a 40.
Many of us here are with a 42.5, you can contact bike24 and change it if you like.
The shock comes with a bushing you'll have to remove(the metallic part in the picture)
The black tool is from WFMG, 1/2" bushings, it helps to remove it cleanly.
I did it already with a screw of the right diameter on a piece of wood, but it was more brutal.
As a last resort, an LBS should be able to help you get it out.
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Does anyone know the real seat angle of this frame?
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Does anyone know the real seat angle of this frame?
Real seat angle depends on your real seat height
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Real seat angle depends on your real seat height
Effective seat angle depends on your real seat height. Real seat angle would be the angle of the seat post itself, which doesn't change (other than different fork A2C or mismatched tire diameters.
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I considered changing to a 42.5 - But my concern is that the increase in travel will lower the BB?
Its my do-it-all bike but also mostly to race XC on technical natural trails during the summer - so I like a machine that is lightweight. Contemplating returning it for the 42.5.
In the future I will be running a 110 (or 120) 35 sid ult.
Thanks!
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...Its my do-it-all bike but also mostly to race XC on technical natural trails during the summer...
You'll be happy! I did and Enduro race and the Swiss Epic the same summer last year with it.
With a 120 Ultimate and 42.5mm here's the build: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg26737.html#msg26737
Swapping the wheels and tires for the enduro.
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Beautiful Build! How did you source the remote lockout for the sidluxe?
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You'll be happy! I did and Enduro race and the Swiss Epic the same summer last year with it.
With a 120 Ultimate and 42.5mm here's the build: http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg26737.html#msg26737
Swapping the wheels and tires for the enduro.
Carbonazza if I just change the Fork and leave the Shock 165x40, will the BB be higher than changing both? Really like the bike but pedal strikes are pissing me off and I´m already running very little sag
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Carbonazza if I just change the Fork and leave the Shock 165x40, will the BB be higher than changing both? Really like the bike but pedal strikes are pissing me off and I´m already running very little sag
I didn't see that one before sorry.
Not an expert in geo-dynamics ???
My guess looking at the pivots and bike, a longer fork will make the BB go up.
Both shocks are 165mm, but a 42.5, will allow the BB to go a bit lower at full compression.
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Offset eyelets for the shock mounts? Shorter cranks? A Slack-R headset insert will raise the stack height 10mm. Probably 5mm on BB. Considering that on y FM909 next spring.
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Edit - Heard from Wing:
120MM travel :
Pre-order accepted, expected to be available in spring 2023,
deposit: $100（No refund on cancellations）
FM 936 -Normal version ( 120 mm travel ) : US $ 695
FM 936 Super Light version ( 120 mm travel ) : US $ 810
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Hi all,
I have a question regarding bearing replacement.
I run FM936 for 2 seasons and 7k km quite hard (trail riding, XC-racing) in dry conditions.
Last year I serviced bearings in workshop with new grease. This November I broke shaft of the rear shock and went to another workshop for repair and they told me that bearings required change. I do not trust them because they invent a problem even when there is none.
Thus, the question is: how long do stock bearings last? Is it the time for replacement after 7k km?
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Hi all,
I have a question regarding bearing replacement.
I run FM936 for 2 seasons and 7k km quite hard (trail riding, XC-racing) in dry conditions.
Last year I serviced bearings in workshop with new grease. This November I broke shaft of the rear shock and went to another workshop for repair and they told me that bearings required change. I do not trust them because they invent a problem even when there is none.
Thus, the question is: how long do stock bearings last? Is it the time for replacement after 7k km?
I don them every year, so 4a5k a year. But depends when and where you ride.
7k is good lenght I think.
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Hard AM/enduro riding can easily wear out most stock bearings (even on branded bikes) in less than 1,000mi/1800km. So even moderate XC riding will probably not be able to get away with several multiples of that. It only takes mild bearing play to put increased stress on the frame and shock.
I usually suggest new bearings every year, just because late season riding tends to be messier and harder on them here in New England USA. Mileage is only part of how you measure bearing life.
Usually you don’t need to replace all of them, just clean and regrease some while replacing the most worn ones — usually the main pivot and rocker arm pivot on common linkages. Get Enduro Max bearings and you may be able to go multiple years without replacements.
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Just got my frame, anyone have an issue with shock alignment on there 936? If I tighten the bottom trunnion mount bolts first, the upper shock is misaligned by a few millimeters. But when I loosen the trunnion bolts then install the upper pivot, it gets more aligned. Pictures attached.
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also, the shock was a super tight fit at the trunnion mount, is that normal. I really had to push to get the shock between the trunnion bearings.
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Just got my frame, anyone have an issue with shock alignment on there 936? If I tighten the bottom trunnion mount bolts first, the upper shock is misaligned by a few millimeters. But when I loosen the trunnion bolts then install the upper pivot, it gets more aligned. Pictures attached.
This doesn't look good. You'd better contact Carbonda ASAP. If you leave it "as is", you'll get quick wear of side surface of shock's shaft/stanchion.
On my 936 shock was aligned pretty perfectly.
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Just got my frame, anyone have an issue with shock alignment on there 936? If I tighten the bottom trunnion mount bolts first, the upper shock is misaligned by a few millimeters. But when I loosen the trunnion bolts then install the upper pivot, it gets more aligned. Pictures attached.
It is most likely the shock that is currently misaligned. Take all the air out of the shock, then you should be able to rotate it by hand.
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also, the shock was a super tight fit at the trunnion mount, is that normal. I really had to push to get the shock between the trunnion bearings.
Make sure the trunnion bearing spacers are oriented correctly and fully seated.
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It is most likely the shock that is currently misaligned. Take all the air out of the shock, then you should be able to rotate it by hand.
The shock is not misaligned, from a rotational perspective. I checked the trunnion spacers, they were set. When I get a chance I will repress the bearings, maybe they put them in offset, but they seem fully pressed in because the shock has a super tight fit between the trunnion mounts.
The annoying thing is that the frame is shipped with a plastic bar between the shock mounts. When that bar is installed it is clearly shifted to the side and any type of QA on this frame would have picked it up.
My guess, it appears that there is something wrong with the trunnion mount area, either the frame mold is misaligned or there is something wrong with the bearing faces not being even.
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Bearings are pressed in tight. The rocker linkage may be the issue also, it could be shifted to right by a few mm. Should I disassemble the linkage and reassemble that?
Here are some pics where you can see when the shock is mounted to the rocker arm, it is shifted to the right(sitting on the frame looking forward)
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Also, the paint is just flaking off the frame. I have read this site for a long while and people really touted the quality of Carbonda which is why I ordered from them. They are about a 20% premium cost over the other alliexpress frames.
I have to say, so far I am not impressed.
Hopefully their customer support is on the ball.
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The shock is not misaligned, from a rotational perspective. I checked the trunnion spacers, they were set. When I get a chance I will repress the bearings, maybe they put them in offset, but they seem fully pressed in because the shock has a super tight fit between the trunnion mounts.
The annoying thing is that the frame is shipped with a plastic bar between the shock mounts. When that bar is installed it is clearly shifted to the side and any type of QA on this frame would have picked it up.
My guess, it appears that there is something wrong with the trunnion mount area, either the frame mold is misaligned or there is something wrong with the bearing faces not being even.
That sucks, sorry. It would be surprising if the mould is misaligned, given that others haven’t had this issue. I hope carbonda sort it for you.
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While Carbonda does seem deliver the most consistent quality, it's still a chinese frame. Most major bike brands have dedicated quality control person onsite to catch these things. We don't get that at this price point.
Several other reports are in this thread of linkage/shock issues, especially on the regular (non-SL) version. To be fair, these are some of the least visually inspectable defects.
I think a lot of us like Carbonda because of the quality of the carbon work. Not too much resin, very clean on the interior.
You definitely got unlucky, that sucks. At least they usually respond to defect claims. Some manufactures just ignore you.
They will probably make you saw the frame in half before sending you a new front triangle and it will probably take a long time.
As for the paint, Carbonda paint used to be better. Ask for a paint refund. My FM1002 had the same flakey issue.
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While Carbonda does seem deliver the most consistent quality, it's still a chinese frame. Most major bike brands have dedicated quality control person onsite to catch these things. We don't get that at this price point.
Several other reports are in this thread of linkage/shock issues, especially on the regular (non-SL) version. To be fair, these are some of the least visually inspectable defects.
You definitely got unlucky, they will make you saw the frame in half before sending you a new front traingle and it will probably take a long time.
As for the paint, Carbonda paint used to be better. Ask for a paint refund. My FM1002 had the same flakey issue.
Good advice, I read about some flaky paint and other paint issues and was hoping I would get a quality paint job. In hindsight, I should have just went for a carbon finish. Mine is the regular NON-SL version.
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Good advice, I read about some flaky paint and other paint issues and was hoping I would get a quality paint job. In hindsight, I should have just went for a carbon finish. Mine is the regular NON-SL version.
Well I hope they respond quickly and send you a new front triangle. It might be difficult to verify that this is a defect, especially with the language barrier. Good luck and I hope you get better paint on round two.
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I am not sure if it is the front triangle or the linkage. I just can't tell which one is misaligned.
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Adam from Carbonda told me the paint flaking off is because of my installation, I haven't even installed anything yet. He also said the misalignment was normal. UGH.
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I am not sure if it is the front triangle or the linkage. I just can't tell which one is misaligned.
More people have issues with linkage than a front triangle. if you cant pinpoint the problem, Adam probably wont help you. Perhaps you should take it to reputable bike shop?
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Had my 936 for a year now and have just noticed some play in the rear end when I pick it up by the top tube, I think it's the main pivot.
I already have a full bearing kit spare.
I've never replaced frame bearings before.
Anyone got any tips or advice on how to do it and the special tools required.
Cheers.
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Had my 936 for a year now and have just noticed some play in the rear end when I pick it up by the top tube, I think it's the main pivot.
I already have a full bearing kit spare.
I've never replaced frame bearings before.
Anyone got any tips or advice on how to do it and the special tools required.
Cheers.
I would check the torque spec on all of the pivot bolts first, especially the lower pivot hidden behind the crank. This is how I found out that my frame was one that had the lower pivot bolt longer than spec. It would start to come loose and the rear triangle had play when lifting the frame.
For the bearings, I do believe there are frame bearing sized pulls and presses like you'd use for a bottom bracket and headset.
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Had my 936 for a year now and have just noticed some play in the rear end when I pick it up by the top tube, I think it's the main pivot.
I already have a full bearing kit spare.
I've never replaced frame bearings before.
Anyone got any tips or advice on how to do it and the special tools required.
Cheers.
I've got my 936 for 3 years now and do the lower bearing every year. First time I used a hamer and a screwdriver and a lot of patience, but last year a bought a cheap bearingpullset which does the job easier. All the bearing are pressed in aluminium or steel cups, so it can handle a bit of abuse(a little bit! It's a plastic frame, not aluminium).
First time it's a scary, but there are enough YT movies to help you. Otherwise go to your local bikeshop for help.
Good luck
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...but last year a bought a cheap bearingpullset which does the job easier...
Do you have a picture or a link to it ?
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Do you have a picture or a link to it ?
I've bought this one https://www.hbm-machines.com/nl/p/hbm-9-delige-binnenlager-trekkerset-met-slagtrekker?kb=ga_sb_18587120322_144902918280&gclid=CjwKCAiAqaWdBhAvEiwAGAQltoTrKfiH78LI5udKB-vSw4eGrqcw_5hM3OtSEAGYKWGFp2Vb1nsgWxoCt2UQAvD_BwE
But there are better one's for bikes tbh, I think this one is more for cars, but does is job...
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I found these which I'll order:
https://www.bearingprotools.com/products/bearing-puller-kit-for-vitus-bikes?variant=39926297526377
&
https://www.bearingprotools.com/products/bearing-press-kit-for-vitus-bikes?variant=39926297821289
Main pivot bearing is very rough!
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I found these which I'll order:
https://www.bearingprotools.com/products/bearing-puller-kit-for-vitus-bikes?variant=39926297526377
&
https://www.bearingprotools.com/products/bearing-press-kit-for-vitus-bikes?variant=39926297821289
Main pivot bearing is very rough!
I have this kind of extraction tools, and a couple of times I got only the inner crown out, starting not so happy next steps.
I was considering these instead: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EuXdRGr
They claim it is ZTTO but they do not look like ZTTO tools though.
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Wow… I made it. I completed the 147 pages of this thread, what a journey some of you have gone through! Feels like I just finished a novel.
Currently assembling mine, will report back with the complete build and ride feel! I’m 180cm tall but went with the M in SL. The paint brought it back down to a “normal weight”.
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Hey guys!
Been on the fence about buying one of these for the last year or so, but I stumbled upon a good deal and decided to jump in.
After 500 km on the bike, I have to say that I really like the frame. The suspension feels nice, and the position on the bike is comfortable. It climbs really nicely, the suspension is not that active, still need to test it on some better descends. But loving the bike so far. Wasn't sure about the sizing (180cm, somewhat short legs), but decided to go with the M size combined with a 70mm -20deg stem and 120mm of front travel - and so far it fits. Waiting on the race season to see if something needs tweaking.
Here are a few photos of the build.
(https://i.imgur.com/ycHkUp5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K6cYEp5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/926wUY6.jpg)
The specs are:
Carbonda FM936, M size
FOX Float DPS Factory, 165x42.5
SR Suntour Axon Elite 34, 120mm
M8000 groupset
M8020 pedals
DT Swiss M1900 Spline 30 wheels w/ Maxxis Ikon 29x2.35
TranzX 150mm dropper post
Is somewhat heavy at 13ish kgs, but I wanted a "stronger" bike that can take abuse (and also I'm 90ish kg) so that fits the bill.
Will get back to you with a more detailed review after a few more kilometers. Greetings from Croatia!
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Hey guys!
Been on the fence about buying one of these for the last year or so, but I stumbled upon a good deal and decided to jump in.
After 500 km on the bike, I have to say that I really like the frame. The suspension feels nice, and the position on the bike is comfortable. It climbs really nicely, the suspension is not that active, still need to test it on some better descends. But loving the bike so far. Wasn't sure about the sizing (180cm, somewhat short legs), but decided to go with the M size combined with a 70mm -20deg stem and 120mm of front travel - and so far it fits. Waiting on the race season to see if something needs tweaking.
Hi ivou, nice bike!
This saddle looks not to be set for shorter legs. What is the distance from bb centrr to the saddle top?
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Hi ivou, nice bike!
This saddle looks not to be set for shorter legs. What is the distance from bb centrr to the saddle top?
Maybe my legs aren't that short ;D
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New 120mm linkage installed.
The old linkage is on the left hand side of the pictures.
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New 120mm linkage installed.
The old linkage is on the left side of the pictures.
Did you get the 120 linkage as a separate piece? I've been waiting for it to become available so I can bump up to 120.
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Did you get the 120 linkage as a separate piece? I've been waiting for it to become available so I can bump up to 120.
Yes, michael and me ordered the 120mm linkage as piece parts.
Price was 95 USD per linkage plus 60 USD for shipping.
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Yes, we (michael and me) ordered the 120mm linkage as piece parts.
Price was 95 USD per linkage lus 69 USD for shipping.
Who was your point of contact @ Carbonda? I've dealt with Win in the past, but it's been a while since I've reached out to him.
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Who was your point of contact @ Carbonda? I've dealt with Win in the past, but it's been a while since I've reached out to him.
I placed the order via Alibaba.com.
Our contact person was Wing Lee.
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New 120mm linkage installed.
The old linkage is on the left side of the pictures.
Thanks for sharing this! Have you measured the distance between seatstay bridge and seat tube at full stroke?
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New 120mm linkage installed.
The old linkage is on the left side of the pictures.
You didn't give us the most important information.
How many grams shaved ? ;D
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Thanks for sharing this! Have you measured the distance between seatstay bridge and seat tube at full stroke?
I have not measured.
Only visual checked.
See picture
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You didn't give us the most important information.
How many grams shaved ? ;D
Maybe 1 or 2 grams 8)
Due to the removal of the blue spacer out of the rock shox ultimate deluxe rct ;)
The linkage weight is equal.
HA = 65,5 ° (measured with digital pitch gauge)
The last picture shows the new cheap areo wheelset ;D ;D
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New 120mm linkage installed.
The old linkage is on the left side of the pictures.
Awesome!
Can you measure the distance between the rocker-pivot and the other pivots for both?
Clearly it extends the rear wheel further now, so bottomout geometry is the same for both versions.
The tiny bit higher dynamic ride height might be beneficial for this frame, with its low BB and slack headangle.
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hey all,
Where the linkage connects to the frame, there is a washer that sits between the linkage an frame. This washer has a small raised surface. Does that raised surface side go toward the bearing or away from the bearing?
I circled the connection I am talking about.
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hey all,
Where the linkage connects to the frame, there is a washer that sits between the linkage an frame. This washer has a small raised surface. Does that raised surface side go toward the bearing or away from the bearing?
I circled the connection I am talking about.
The raised surface (step) must go toward the bearing.
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Awesome!
Can you measure the distance between the rocker-pivot and the other pivots for both?
Clearly it extends the rear wheel further now, so bottomout geometry is the same for both versions.
The tiny bit higher dynamic ride height might be beneficial for this frame, with its low BB and slack headangle.
Rocker pivot to shock pivot 48mm (100mm rocker)
Rocker pivot to shock pivot 49mm (120mm rocker)
Rocker pivot to rear-end pivot 64mm (100mn rocker)
Rocker pivot to rear-end pivot 62mm (120mm rocker)
New 120mm rocker on the left hand side of the pictures
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Interesting, but dont think it will change a lot geowise. Static measurements, sure. But active, dont think so.
I'm more interested how the bike will feel, more peddlebob? More a liniar rear? Are there people who can simulate it?
I personal think it will change more than only a few mm of suspension and maybe with the cost of losing the direct and fast feeling the bike has got now.
But like to hear what the change realy is.
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Second "transplantation" performed.
Michaels fm936 also ready for test.
We will inform you about our experience.
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I can confirm that two bottles fit quite well in a large FM936 frame! Also got a couple other 3D printed bits, the Manitou Mara remote lockout exits on the top (or bottom in the case of this mounting) but there's no room in the frame, so I printed a little sleeve for the aircan with a mount for the cable housing, so it now exits out the non-drive-side. I just swapped from an LCFS911 to this and carried most of the parts over, but still going to build a new wheelset and get new handlebar/stem. Once it's all done I'm thinking it'll come in right under 25 lbs. The trails will be wet until mid March or so, so it'll be a while until a ride report. So far the geo feels a lot like my Guerrilla Gravity, except it's fast in a straight line like my 911 was.
(https://i.imgur.com/cltRsdsh.jpg)
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I can confirm that two bottles fit quite well in a large FM936 frame! Also got a couple other 3D printed bits, the Manitou Mara remote lockout exits on the top (or bottom in the case of this mounting) but there's no room in the frame, so I printed a little sleeve for the aircan with a mount for the cable housing, so it now exits out the non-drive-side. I just swapped from an LCFS911 to this and carried most of the parts over, but still going to build a new wheelset and get new handlebar/stem. Once it's all done I'm thinking it'll come in right under 25 lbs. The trails will be wet until mid March or so, so it'll be a while until a ride report. So far the geo feels a lot like my Guerrilla Gravity, except it's fast in a straight line like my 911 was.
(https://i.imgur.com/cltRsdsh.jpg)
how big bottles fit in the frame?
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These are 21oz Camelbak Podiums, I'll have to try some longer bottles
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These are 21oz Camelbak Podiums, I'll have to try some longer bottles
can you share the STL file?
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These are 21oz Camelbak Podiums, I'll have to try some longer bottles
Clever ! I'll check if this could work on a size M
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I've got a few things I want to tweak, then I can share the STL.
I can also share a PDF so you can print out 1:1 and check if it'll fit other sizes.
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I've got a few things I want to tweak, then I can share the STL.
I can also share a PDF so you can print out 1:1 and check if it'll fit other sizes.
in theory, in size L, you can put two bottles of 1 liter and 0.75
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I can confirm that two bottles fit quite well in a large FM936 frame!
Thats basically my setup. I run two full size bottles in my L frame, only real difference is I machined my adapter out of aluminum and attached it with a Wolftooth extension
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Second "transplantation" performed.
Michaels fm936 also ready for test.
We will inform you about our experience.
Hello did you check how geometry has changed with the new link?
I would like to know what is the effect on bb height, reach and head angle.
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Hello did you check how geometry has changed with the new link?
I would like to know what is the effect on bb height, reach and head angle.
Arno posted the geo chart from Carbonda at the end of this thread: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3986.0.html (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3986.0.html)
No BB height, but I'd assume a few mm higher than the 100mm 936 since the new link is just pushing the rear end a bit further down. Of course if you run more sag with the new link it will probably be very similar.
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Arno posted the geo chart from Carbonda at the end of this thread: https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3986.0.html (https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3986.0.html)
No BB height, but I'd assume a few mm higher than the 100mm 936 since the new link is just pushing the rear end a bit further down. Of course if you run more sag with the new link it will probably be very similar.
Ok i saw.
Reach and HA are the same as the basic 100/100mm version but with 120/120 setup and bike raised by 1cm.
It's clearly a pretty different bike with the new link!
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how big bottles fit in the frame?
I can fit 750ml along the downtube. For the vertical bottle, 750ml touches the nozzle on the top tube but does fit in. I'm going to adjust the design so the downtube bottle sits further back, and may be able to bring the vertical bottle down a bit, but it's a tight squeeze since you need to fit a nut in there without the nut or screw running into the downtube.
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Ok i saw.
Reach and HA are the same as the basic 100/100mm version but with 120/120 setup and bike raised by 1cm.
It's clearly a pretty different bike with the new link!
A lot of us were running 100/120 and it is a bit different bike at 120/120 now with the new link. Should be VERY similar geo to 100/100, just more suspension and a higher BB.
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A lot of us were running 100/120 and it is a bit different bike at 120/120 now with the new link. Should be VERY similar geo to 100/100, just more suspension and a higher BB.
My buddy Michael has both version in his garage.
100/100 (9,4kg) for xc race and marathon.
120/120 (10,4) for every day use.
He could now compare both bikes.
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Guys, I'm so glad I ran into this forum! I just recently started to "think outside" tipical mtb brands and decieded to take a chance at some chinese mtb full sus carbon frame. From what I've saw, fm936 seems to get most praise.
So if someone here could help me with some questions. Namely, I can't see the price on carbonda website, and I wonder how long does it take for them to respond since there''s no "buy" option, just "inquiry"?
And are there any brands on aliexpress that sell this frame? Do I have to order it only on carbonda site? I'm from EU if that means anything.
Thanks for help!
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Guys, I'm so glad I ran into this forum! I just recently started to "think outside" tipical mtb brands and decieded to take a chance at some chinese mtb full sus carbon frame. From what I've saw, fm936 seems to get most praise.
So if someone here could help me with some questions. Namely, I can't see the price on carbonda website, and I wonder how long does it take for them to respond since there''s no "buy" option, just "inquiry"?
And are there any brands on aliexpress that sell this frame? Do I have to order it only on carbonda site? I'm from EU if that means anything.
Thanks for help!
@volan,
super light frame price 795,00 usd.
standard frame price 680,00 usd.
I placed my orders via alibaba app.
response time (same day of enquiry)
shipping cost (door to door including tax) 195,00 usd for one frame.
shipping cost for two frames 260,00 usd.
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@volan,
super light frame price 795,00 usd.
standard frame price 680,00 usd.
I placed my orders via alibaba app.
response time (same day of enquiry)
shipping cost (door to door including tax) 195,00 usd for one frame.
shipping cost for two frames 260,00 usd.
You rock! Thanks alot. That's exactly the info i needed!!! I'll look around this thread a bit more, do some research and probably give it a go!
How long does it take to get it delivered?
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How long does it take to get it delivered?
[/quote]
approximately 4 weeks after payment.
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How long does it take to get it delivered?
approximately 4 weeks after payment.
Could you direct me to what else I need to buy for rear shock? Is this trunnion mount or not 165mm, and what bushings would I need to buy? Sorry, this will be my first full sus build so I'm kinda noob when it comes to rear shocks...
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Could you direct me to what else I need to buy for rear shock? Is this trunnion mount or not 165mm, and what bushings would I need to buy? Sorry, this will be my first full sus build so I'm kinda noob when it comes to rear shocks...
Not to be rude, but those questions are answered a couple of times...use the search option please...
And email carbonda direct instead of alibaba...sometimes cheaper, but always fast reply ( not these days, because of chinese newyear)
Good luck
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Could you direct me to what else I need to buy for rear shock? Is this trunnion mount or not 165mm, and what bushings would I need to buy? Sorry, this will be my first full sus build so I'm kinda noob when it comes to rear shocks...
The rear shock is trunion mount.
The two bolts are included in the frame set.
For the eylet you must by one 8x30mm bushing set.
Note:
8x30 for the new 120/120 frame (linkage)
8x22,2mm for the 100/100 frame
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This new rocker doesn't make 120mm NS Synonym TR frame from geometry point of view. I'm not sure if NS has actual 120mm of travel, but they have 38mm BB drop while keeping 66 deg HA. With new rocker to get 66HA you would need to rise BB about 8mm, so actual BB drop will be about 27mm.
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This new rocker doesn't make 120mm NS Synonym TR frame from geometry point of view. I'm not sure if NS has actual 120mm of travel, but they have 38mm BB drop while keeping 66 deg HA. With new rocker to get 66HA you would need to rise BB about 8mm, so actual BB drop will be about 27mm.
Dimension F in the drawing is 520mm
Dimension F SID ULTIMATE 120mm is 531mm
I measured HA 65,5°
BB high 330mm
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Surely not. 120mm rocker require 120mm fork to set frame into 67 deg HA (as stated in the table below drawing). How come have you got 65.5 if default HA is 67 deg and you haven't risen front wheel? To get 66 deg HA you need about 140mm fork.
EDIT: Indeed, 120mm Fox SC also has 530mm A2C, so with 120/120 setup HA will be about 66.5, but not 65.5, for sure.
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Hey all- I built up a medium and XL FM936 for my sons last summer. They were the regular 100mm frame sets which I outfitted with Fox Float DPS 42.5 and Fox 34 120mm. Both bikes have been amazing and are perfect for the 'Downcountry' riding that we do.
I am looking to build up a size LARGE FM936 for myself and am wondering if I just order the same frame and build it up the same as my other two, or if I give the 120mm frame a shot.
Any additional user experience or advice? Thanks!
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Surely not. 120mm rocker require 120mm fork to set frame into 67 deg HA (as stated in the table below drawing). How come have you got 65.5 if default HA is 67 deg and you haven't risen front wheel? To get 66 deg HA you need about 140mm fork.
EDIT: Indeed, 120mm Fox SC also has 530mm A2C, so with 120/120 setup HA will be about 66.5, but not 65.5, for sure.
I checked the ha with a digital protractor.
i measured 68,6° on my sp-m05 frame with sid sl 100;
fm909 frame 100/100 with sid sl 100 = 66,6° ha;
fm936 frame 120/120 with sid ultimate 120 = 65,5° ha.
I will double check it tomorrow morning.
BB clearance 330mm
PS:
Maybe the carbonda drawing is not correct.
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Please do. But their drawings are projected 3d views so I really doubt that this would be the case...
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Not to be rude, but those questions are answered a couple of times...use the search option please...
And email carbonda direct instead of alibaba...sometimes cheaper, but always fast reply ( not these days, because of chinese newyear)
Good luck
Sorry, ik. But mere fact there are 150 pages on this sub get me confused :o
I emailed carbonda, still no reply... But i guess it's the festivities you mentioned the reason for delay.
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Please do. But their drawings are projected 3d views so I really doub hat this would be the case...
I measured the ha again.
SP-M05 = 68,6°
FM909 = 66,6°
Jeffsy with 160mm fork 66,1°
Capra with 170mm fork 65,3°
FM936 = 65,8°
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@Arno Knell, 909 HA matches drawing perfectly but I really don't know how come 936 is 65.8...
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@Arno Knell, 909 HA matches drawing perfectly but I really don't know how come 936 is 65.8...
That is the reason why i measured all my bikes ha again (twice)
Jeffsy ha is correct.
Capra ha is correct.
SP-M05 ha is correct.
FM909 ha is correct.
So the FM936 120/120 ha should also be correct !
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I trust real measurements (from Arno Knell) more than Carbonda.
Thanks for sharing. Can you also get the STA? (real and effective)
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I trust real measurements (from Arno Knell) more than Carbonda.
Thanks for sharing. Can you also get the STA? (real and effective)
Following my measurements of the sta
at a seat hight of 735mm:
FM936 actual = 70° virtual = 76°
FM909 actual = 72° virtual = 77,6°
SP-M05 actual = 72° virtual = 74°
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One guy on German forum posted this calculation. It's based on real A2C dimensions for 120mm forks instead of weird 520mm in Carbonda's drawing. And even these calculations are closer to Arno Knell measurements than to data provided by Carbonda.
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SA/HA relation is almost same as with drawings: 76/65.8 vs 77/67, 0.2deg difference. So where's en error?
120mm forks clearly have about 530mm, Carbonda spec is for 110 or something like this.
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SA/HA relation is almost same as with drawings: 76/65.8 vs 77/67, 0.2deg difference. So where's en error?
67-65.8=0.2? Nice
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76-65.8=10.2
77-67=10
0.2deg difference, I guess close to measuring tolerance.
Rising front by 20mm rotates frame by about 1 deg. Arno has 531mm fork, so front went up about 25mm from default Carbonda spec (506mm). Carbonda replaced only rocker, so maybe rear end wasn't actually risen by 10mm, but only 3-5mm?
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76-65.8=10.2
77-67=10
0.2deg difference, I guess close to measuring tolerance.
Rising front by 20mm rotates frame by about 1 deg. Arno has 531mm fork, so front went up about 25mm from default Carbonda spec (506mm). Carbonda replaced only rocker, so maybe rear end wasn't actually risen by 10mm, but only 3-5mm?
On the fm936 frame 120/120mm i measured bb offest -38mm (bb clearance = 330mm).
But i am not sure if the new rocker really "generate" 120mm rear travel.
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Guys, thanks for all replies so far. I have one more quibble to solve. Namely, the rear travel. Since I have Sid SL fork which i recently bought for my ht, I'd like to know if I could go fm936 with 120mm rear travel, and pair it with sid sl (100mm)? Would that be a bad setup? I'd like to go 120mm rear travel so i can go 120mm in the future with fork as well, but if 120r/100f would result in too sketchy geo, i'd consider then 100/100 build. Any advice would be appreciated!
ps. i have old 120mm qr markhoor fork that could "do the job" for now. But it's not as stiff nor stable as my new sid, so that's kinda off the table if i would build 120mm for more downcountry/trail oriented ride.
tldr: is 120 rear and 100 front acceptable with fm936?
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I probably wouldn't. If 120mm was achieved by just taking out the shock spacer, then I'd be all for it. But since the 120mm linkage raises the rear, you'd end up with a ~78deg seat tube, and ~68deg head tube. Maybe it won't feel too weird, and I'm sure it'd be fine if you had plans to moving to a 120mm fork in the future. But if you are set on using the Sid SL, then just get the normal linkage.
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I probably wouldn't. If 120mm was achieved by just taking out the shock spacer, then I'd be all for it. But since the 120mm linkage raises the rear, you'd end up with a ~78deg seat tube, and ~68deg head tube. Maybe it won't feel too weird, and I'm sure it'd be fine if you had plans to moving to a 120mm fork in the future. But if you are set on using the Sid SL, then just get the normal linkage.
Are you sure about cca 1° change in ha/sa with 120mm rear link? I read somewhere here on the thread that new link should raise the rear 3-5mm, and since when we raise the fork for 20mm, the hta changes for a degree, then 3-5mm raise shouldn't translate into 1° difference... i think. pls correct me if my math is off.
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Edit: My original post was wrong, so I'm deleting it to avoid misleading anyone.
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If the clearance between seat stay bridge and seat tube are the same at bottom out, when comparing normal linkage with 165x40 to new linkage with 165x45, then the amount the rear wheel gets pushed down is the difference in travel. I guess we don't really know what that is. Let's say the original setup is 105mm (not sure if the actual travel has been settled) and new linkage setup is 120mm. Then the rear wheel will get pushed down 15mm. This will not be true if the position of the rear triangle sinks further into the travel on the new linkage setup (as if the clearance between seat stay bridge and seat tube was more similar to original linkage and 165x42.5mm shock), or if the travel achieved isn't actually 120mm. Since the rear triangle isn't changing, there's no way the rear wheel is only pushing 3mm downward, that would mean 3mm of travel gain, assuming similar bottom out clearance.
Bottom bracket location makes no difference to how the angles change. What if you put the BB in the middle of the fork axle, like a kids tricycle? If you extended the rear wheel downward, the bike would still change by the same angle. When extending the fork, the bike pivots around the rear axle. When changing the linkage and pushing the rear wheel down, the bike pivots around the front axle. Vertical wheel location change and wheelbase are all the matter. BB location only matters for BB height change. If we trust Carbonda's geo charts, then what I said is true. 40mm/old-linkage = 67/77deg. Use a geo calculator for 120mm fork with 40mm/old-linkage = 66/76deg (1 deg change to 120mm fork). 45mm/new-linkage and 120mm fork (from Carbonda chart) = 67/77deg. This if we trust their chart, original linkage to new linkage is a 1deg frame angle change. Thus you can interpret that new linkage with 100m fork would be 1deg the other way, 68/78.
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Bottom bracket location makes no difference to how the angles change. What if you put the BB in the middle of the fork axle, like a kids tricycle? If you extended the rear wheel downward, the bike would still change by the same angle. When extending the fork, the bike pivots around the rear axle. When changing the linkage and pushing the rear wheel down, the bike pivots around the front axle. Vertical wheel location change and wheelbase are all the matter. BB location only matters for BB height change. If we trust Carbonda's geo charts, then what I said is true. 40mm/old-linkage = 67/77deg. Use a geo calculator for 120mm fork with 40mm/old-linkage = 66/76deg (1 deg change to 120mm fork). 45mm/new-linkage and 120mm fork (from Carbonda chart) = 67/77deg. This if we trust their chart, original linkage to new linkage is a 1deg frame angle change. Thus you can interpret that new linkage with 100m fork would be 1deg the other way, 68/78.
You're absolutely right - I was wrong to look at the distances to the BB. There will be a slight difference due to the increased wheelbase of the larger sizes, but that isn't very significant.
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I think I've decieded. I'm gonna go for the 120mm rear linkage, and 120mm fork. I want this bike to be my gnarlier race-oriented dc machine... BUUUT... Only quibble I have is the remote lockout. I really want to have the possibility of locking out the shock. Since I do plan to race on in, and my local races have lots of fireroad climbs... So I really need that lockout. I went through all 150 pages, and learned:
1. sidluxe doesnt have 165x45 with remote? possible with 150ish€ top cap that seems nowhere in stock :(
2. fox dps doable? pricey in eu :'(
3. manitou mara cable exits downwards and makes it hard
4. dt shock r232? also pricey :(
So what options do I have for 45mm travel shock and rem. lockout? Please say there is something doable :-\
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FYI the Mara doesn't even fit going downward. I've had it in another frame with similar layout and it was a tight bend, but worked. But there's not enough clearance on the FM936. I 3D printed a little clamp for the air can that makes it a side exit, got a picture on page 148 and can print more.
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https://www.bike-components.de/de/DT-Swiss/R-232-ONE-Trunnion-Remote-ready-Daempfer-p76022/
@volan,
this could be the right one for you
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If the clearance between seat stay bridge and seat tube are the same at bottom out, when comparing normal linkage with 165x40 to new linkage with 165x45, then the amount the rear wheel gets pushed down is the difference in travel. I guess we don't really know what that is. Let's say the original setup is 105mm (not sure if the actual travel has been settled) and new linkage setup is 120mm. Then the rear wheel will get pushed down 15mm. This will not be true if the position of the rear triangle sinks further into the travel on the new linkage setup (as if the clearance between seat stay bridge and seat tube was more similar to original linkage and 165x42.5mm shock), or if the travel achieved isn't actually 120mm. Since the rear triangle isn't changing, there's no way the rear wheel is only pushing 3mm downward, that would mean 3mm of travel gain, assuming similar bottom out clearance.
Bottom bracket location makes no difference to how the angles change. What if you put the BB in the middle of the fork axle, like a kids tricycle? If you extended the rear wheel downward, the bike would still change by the same angle. When extending the fork, the bike pivots around the rear axle. When changing the linkage and pushing the rear wheel down, the bike pivots around the front axle. Vertical wheel location change and wheelbase are all the matter. BB location only matters for BB height change. If we trust Carbonda's geo charts, then what I said is true. 40mm/old-linkage = 67/77deg. Use a geo calculator for 120mm fork with 40mm/old-linkage = 66/76deg (1 deg change to 120mm fork). 45mm/new-linkage and 120mm fork (from Carbonda chart) = 67/77deg. This if we trust their chart, original linkage to new linkage is a 1deg frame angle change. Thus you can interpret that new linkage with 100m fork would be 1deg the other way, 68/78.
This is very helpful and, as far as I understand it, correct. BB height change is not causing the angle changes. But it is worth noting that raising the front (longer fork) and pressing down the rear (with the 120 linkage) BOTH raise the BB. Hence the 10mm higher BB height in the Carbonda diagram, which is likely an underestimate in how much the BB drop changes given that they do the calculation with a 520 fork.
I've installed the new linkage and cut out my shock spacer (to make it 45mm), hence I now have it setup in the new 120/120 mode. I notice the slightly steeper HA compared to the 100/120 I was running before, but I also notice the higher BB (it feels like I'm riding more on the bike that in it). So, I'm wondering if there would be clearance to use one offset bushing and reverse a small part of the work of the linkage change. Maybe carbonda went too far in pushing the rear end down. If it is possible to run the 45mm shock but with a little less extending out the rear end that might be ideal. So, I'm toying with the idea of ordering a 2mm offset bushing and seeing what happens. I'll report back if I do that (although it might take a while).
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Does anyone know the actual seat stay bridge to seat tube clearance when a 165x42.5mm is bottomed out? I can measure on mine at some point. If we knew that, then you can remove the linkage/shock bolt and compress the rear triangle until that clearance is achieved (say 42.5mm clearance is 5mm, just take a 5mm allen key or something and stick it inbetween the bridge and seat tube and bottom it out). Then measure eye to eye and see if it's more or less than what the 165x45mm is at bottom out.
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Hi folks, first time poster here. About to order one of these and want to have a friend paint it. I'm trying to get a finish that will be amenable to painting. Has anyone done this? Wing suggested standard matte, but I notice in the form letter that Carbonda sends out that this comes with a clearcoat. I don't think that this would be ideal for painting? However Wing warns that a completely bare frame would not be smooth and would have to be "polished". I think he means sanded?
Any tips or ideas from folks that have had theirs painted after receiving it?
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Seems like a conundrum to me. Have you asked if you can purchase a primered frame?
If not;
Ask if they are powder coating their frames.
Then find out if they use a water base paint, or solvent based paint. (Can make a difference in what paint you use and your preparation.)
If the frame is clear coated over their color paint, then at a minimum, the clear coat will have to be sanded, and perhaps sealed, before you paint the top coat you want.
If you receive a bare frame, then you will likely have to fill and sand any defects on the frame, before the primer, color layer, and perhaps clear coat.
(The other thing I don't like is that if you paint over their paint, you are adding more weight to the frame. Not much, but it adds up.)
On a side note, Automotive/high quality paints have become so expensive here in the states, ($50+/qt) that I would consider paying the price that the frame seller charges to custom paint your frame. May be worth it in the long run.
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Seems like a conundrum to me. Have you asked if you can purchase a primered frame?
If not;
Ask if they are powder coating their frames.
Then find out if they use a water base paint, or solvent based paint. (Can make a difference in what paint you use and your preparation.)
If the frame is clear coated over their color paint, then at a minimum, the clear coat will have to be sanded, and perhaps sealed, before you paint the top coat you want.
If you receive a bare frame, then you will likely have to fill and sand any defects on the frame, before the primer, color layer, and perhaps clear coat.
(The other thing I don't like is that if you paint over their paint, you are adding more weight to the frame. Not much, but it adds up.)
On a side note, Automotive/high quality paints have become so expensive here in the states, ($50+/qt) that I would consider paying the price that the frame seller charges to custom paint your frame. May be worth it in the long run.
You're right in that it would make the most sense to have Carbonda do it from a paint quality perspective. However the person I am asking to do it is a pretty accomplished artist that has also started making his own steel frames (and painting them) so while the paint job won't be as durable, I know he will do something cool and interesting and that ultimately matters more to me than the quality of the products being used. And yes, it will also cost more.
This is what Wing sent me initially for paint options:
standard matte : free
standard matte is between black matte and UD matte , It have clear coat protect the paint
UD matte , UD glossy : $105
One color: US:$70.00(matte or glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :95.00 ( all matte or all glossy,solid color )
Two colors: US$ :105.00 ( matte and glossy,solid color )
Two color gradient : US$ :115.00 ( all matte or all glossy ,solid color )
I asked him for more information about what standard matte is. I'm hoping that someone here might be able to shine more light on this too. My friend meanwhile said that standard matte should work since he will have to do sanding prep-work regardless.
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I asked him for more information about what standard matte is. I'm hoping that someone here might be able to shine more light on this too. My friend meanwhile said that standard matte should work since he will have to do sanding prep-work regardless.
I painted a Carbonda frame that had the standard matte finish. I sanded it down a bit first (not all the way to the carbon) before spraying with a 2k primer. The primer has held without any issues. All of my paint chips have only taken the color layer off and left the primer, so I think it's fine to paint over their matte finish.
I wrote up my experience on another thread:
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3714.0.html
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This is what Wing sent me initially for paint options:
Quote
...
UD matte , UD glossy : $105
Do you know what is this option?
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This is clear glossy/matte over raw carbon. That's what I've ordered for my 909 (glossy), but I don't have photos yet. However, before I ordered, Adam sent me video of what it looks like: it's something like Orbea raw carbon with visible UD structure. IMO it looks better than standard matte black primer finish, as I can use glossy transparent stickers over it. I'm not sure if they remove black primer or get "bare" frames from factory.
For $35 extra you can order glossy/matte gradient.
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Ordered SL 936 L size with 120mm rear linkage. So excited ;D
Thank you guys for being of huge help; @arno knell and @carbonazza!
Now off to ordering all the parts I will need. Surely will come back with the build!
edit: since I will buy dt swiss R 232 ONE 165x45, bushing set for dt swiss doesn't have 8x30mm but only 8x29.8. Should that be ok?
Regards from Croatia!
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I painted a Carbonda frame that had the standard matte finish. I sanded it down a bit first (not all the way to the carbon) before spraying with a 2k primer. The primer has held without any issues. All of my paint chips have only taken the color layer off and left the primer, so I think it's fine to paint over their matte finish.
I wrote up my experience on another thread:
https://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3714.0.html
Just want to say that your paint job looks excellent!
Paid for my frame today. In stock and ready to ship so I think I'll be receiving it soon.
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I was communicating with Wing. He said 1-2 weeks waiting time. Does that mean they take 1-2 weeks to make, then ship?
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Ordered SL 936 L size with 120mm rear linkage. So excited ;D
Thank you guys for being of huge help; @arno knell and @carbonazza!
Now off to ordering all the parts I will need. Surely will come back with the build!
edit: since I will buy dt swiss R 232 ONE 165x45, bushing set for dt swiss doesn't have 8x30mm but only 8x29.8. Should that be ok?
Regards from Croatia!
DT Swiss bushing set 8x29,8mm is also ok.
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Guys, it's me again. Can someone please confirm that r232 one can fit the remote in 936 frame considering that housing for remote comes from top of the shock and that's the bottom side on the frame. I saw one of you guys made it with 535 shock but that one has the remote insert sideways. And ofcourse, I cannot find 535 shock (remote) available anywhere... I'm in the process of ordering remaining parts, and this one brings helluva lot of headache... Could some of you guys give me an painkiller for that? :)
I guess the cable could make the 90° turn from the bottom of the frame into the housing hole in the frame... or am I wrong?
this is the 535 that one of you guys made it work. http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2079.0;attach=5168;image
But 232 has the cables like this: https://www.bike-components.de/en/DT-Swiss/R-232-ONE-Trunnion-Remote-Ready-Rear-Shock-p76022/?o=210864-black-165-mm-x-45-mm
help :-\
edit: ok, finally ran into one guy that mounter r232 with remote. this should be the way:
https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/carbonda-fm-936-erfahrungsaustausch.941960/page-53#post-18215866
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Bikeradar had a review of the Vitus Rapide FS CRX this morning. That's basically a 936 with a 100 mm fork.
https://www.bikeradar.com/reviews/bikes/mountain-bikes/full-suspension-mountain-bikes/vitus-rapide-fs-crx-review/
They said that it needed a lockout to pedal efficiently, especially when out of the saddle. Does that match experiences with the 936 frame?
How much would the shock tune affect that?
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People that need lockouts will need a lockout on any FS bike, whether it's manual, auto (brain), or electronic.
Some people feel it helps out of the saddle or climbing, some don't
I've never had a problem with holeshots in a race or long sustained climbs in a race and I always leave my shocks in full open, YMMV.
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Well, I had the same question regarding this frame as I am planning to psh the trigger.
I am ridding a Niner with the CVA suspension. Only on a sprint I would lock the rear, other wise, Trail or Open mode all the way long. But, the suspension is very efficient despite what peaolple think of Niner.
On a Scott Spark, I would want a lock, what ever you can argue.
I guess, the feeling of the bike is also important. I am racing my Niner Open mode or Trail mode according to the race. Stiffness is not its main ability, but it is bloody efficient on rude terrain. The Spark is very fast on fast rolling races but bloody exhausting on technical trail despite the slacker head angle.
This FM936 seems very rigid around the BB, so I would go for a locking system to put down the Watts on fast terrain.
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Like I said above, people that prefer lockouts on their bikes will want one on the FM936 as well - Carbonda has not figured out how to defy the laws of physics yet.
That said, it's a very efficient pedaler for those with a smooth pedal stroke.
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Like I said above, people that prefer lockouts on their bikes will want one on the FM936 as well - Carbonda has not figured out how to defy the laws of physics yet.
That said, it's a very efficient pedaler for those with a smooth pedal stroke.
Do you think the FM909 is better or worse in that regard ?
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Do you think the FM909 is better or worse in that regard ?
I'd guess about the same, I don't have an FM909, but do ride a new rev Signal Peak with similar suspension layout. The SP is a 115mm true 4 bar though, so the 909 should actually pedal a touch better in open mode - not enough that I would notice probably. Most of the newer FS XC oriented bikes have a lot of anti squat in their suspension design.
For me they're all about the same, except the opposing mini-link (dw-link style) bikes. I like the mini-link suspension better for technical climbing, but they have been high maintenance - at least in my experiences.
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I see there were some issues regarding the upper shock mount bolt being too soft and bending easily. Is that still the case or they replaced the bolt?
If they didn't fix it, can you guys tell me what bolt should I order? Is it the same dimensions for 100 and 120mm linkage?
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Hi, I haven't been here for a while. Preparing for the new season I was thinking about changing crankarms for shorter due to some last season dengerous situations despite having SID 120mm and 43mm rear shock (dt 535 with self made 2mm spacer). And here is what interesting news I came across: new 'longer' rocker arm release. I want to go for it. Have you guys CAD/pdf drawing of it? I'd like to check the geo change, especially the BB lift up, before I pull the trigger. It may be only three distance measurements between the axes instead of drawing.
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Hi, I haven't been here for a while. Preparing for the new season I was thinking about changing crankarms for shorter due to some last season dengerous situations despite having SID 120mm and 43mm rear shock (dt 535 with self made 2mm spacer). And here is what interesting news I came across: new 'longer' rocker arm release. I want to go for it. Have you guys CAD/pdf drawing of it? I'd like to check the geo change, especially the BB lift up, before I pull the trigger. It may be only three distance measurements between the axes instead of drawing.
Wing responded to me that there's a delay for 120mm linkage. It'll be available by the end of march :(
I was hoping to get the frame by mid-march... So sad now. So you can expect them not to be shipped that soon, too bad.
I have one question for you by the way. You made a spacer for 535? I already ordered 232 shock for 45mm travel. Is it possible to modify 232 travel from 45 to 40/42.5, and could you direct me how to do it?
I'm thinking about ordering 100mm linkage, and modify 232 so I can put it on, and order 120mm when they have them ready.
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Hi @volan,
time is not the problem for me now, cause I've just broke my collarbone together with scapula...winter training, heh ;)... 2 months of wasting time. Nevermind.
You can shorten DT shocks travel (I think model doesn't matter) by inserting the plastic round washer(s) with radius cut (like 'C' letter, but without making a gap). I can't find good example now on internet, but it surly is somewhere. It is so simple like air chamber service.
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Hi @volan,
time is not the problem for me now, cause I've just broke my collarbone together with scapula...winter training, heh ;)... 2 months of wasting time. Nevermind.
You can shorten DT shocks travel (I think model doesn't matter) by inserting the plastic round washer(s) with radius cut (like 'C' letter, but without making a gap). I can't find good example now on internet, but it surly is somewhere. It is so simple like air chamber service.
Sorry to hear bout your injury. Hope you recover soon. Thanks for the info about washer. So you made one yourself or you bought it?
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I couldn't find spacer at proper dimensions, so i did it by myself.
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My fm936 is on the way ;D
I am thinking now between 2 forks for it: Sid Ultimate and Charger RL. Obvious difference is 100+ grams in favour of ultimate, but the other thing is the lockout. I got used and fell in love with hard lockout I had on my old cheap Markhor fork, and Raceday damper on my SL fork is stiff as well.
So my question is for anyone that has Charger RL Sid 35 fork: is the lockout "rock solid" as the Rockshox claims or it still has some play when you grind the pedals out of the saddle?
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Hey guys I made it thru all 153 pages. So thankful for all the information here. I just heard from Adam that my 120mm medium with FSA BB is done and about to ship. It took a little over a month because I caught the end of Chinese new year. I have all my parts ready. Full XT build with SID ultimate 120 and SIDluxe rear. If all goes well I should be under 23 pounds. If anyone is interested in my spec sheet I can attach.
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What's Skype contact to Adam? Haven't heard from him since February, 6th, despite kind reminders...
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carbonda-adam on skype
But I found he was actually more responsive over email. That's a relative term it was sometimes a week or two before getting a response.
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This little part (Reverse Angle Spacer) makes a 'big" different
for me, in combination with the new 120mm linkage.
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This little part (Reverse Angle Spacer) makes a 'big" different
for me, in combination with the new 120mm linkage.
What is a Reverse Angle Spacer? Where do you get one? Is it a slackening of head angle headset?
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What is a Reverse Angle Spacer? Where do you get one? Is it a slackening of head angle headset?
Reverse Angle Spacer slackening head angle and seat tube angle by -0,5 angular degree.
I ordered this one by Rose Bikes in Germany.
https://www.reverse-components.com/de/produkte/05%C2%B0-angle-spacer-f%C3%BCr-tapered-gabeln
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Hello everyone
I made it through the full topic, and find the Carbonda frame very tempting. It would offer a better fit to my needs than my current Intense Sniper XC. I really like the 120/120 mm option, longer reach and the potential fit of two bottles in the front triangle. My only concern is that the HA would be too steep in the 120/120 mm configuration.
Did anyone try to slacken the HA using the 9point8 Slack-R? Would it fit the frame or will the cables entering the frame block the cups? Over-forking is not an option as it would serve as a marathon/bike-packing race bike and so I need to keep the weight low.
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If you want 120 out of your sniper, just change the shock for a 45mm stroke and replace the fork.
The sniper's vpp suspension is much better than the 936.
I built a 936, it's a great frame and great bike. But after building my sniper, my 936 was given to my son-in-law. Riding them back to back made it very evident which was the better frame.
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My Sniper is not set up as 120/120mm bike. However, there are quite some annoying things I don't like about it and I experienced quite some failures too.
1) The upper rocker bearings got loose several time in the carbon - I am rather tired of replacing the ling or gluing the bearings in.
2) The spacing of the lower rocker link is bigger than the width of the frame and resulted in a failure of the aluminum bolts. I used a spacer which probably resolved the problem.
3) The carbon link with even with the cross brace is not stiff enough - this results into side forces on the shock - my DPS failed last year (the inner axle snapped in halve).
4) The reach is a bit on the short side with the 120 mm fork and the head angle is not slack enough.
5) The frame does not fit too bottles - the additional bottle on the bottom of the front triangle is a very bad solution.
6) The derailleur hanger is not easily replaceable without tools which is a big problem for long bike packing races.
All these things make me to think Carbonda can be a better and safer fit. Could you please elaborate on the setup you got on both bikes? Was the suspension the same (shock/fork)? How about the wheels and cockpit? What was the main difference you noticed?
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Setting the sniper up for 120 is as simple as a shock and fork.
I haven't had any of those issues. My bike is a large and fits two bottles easily in the front triangle. The 936 has one bottle mount. Sure, you need a wrench to replace the hangar. You need one for the 936 as well, but a small allen wrench rather than a larger open end wrench.
Sounds like you're simply wanting a change, so go for it. Mine is a T, so it has the extra brace on the rear triangle. Other than that the frames are identical from XC to T.
As for setup, I used the same components on both bike builds. Fork, wheels, drivetrain, cockpit, dropper, saddle.
Only thing different was the shock. Well, headset and bottom bracket too. I built the 936 with a fox DPS factory that I sent to Fox and had changed to 42.5 travel. I used a fox DPS performance elite on the sniper so I didn't have to see that annoying gold color. Functionally the exact same shock without the gold.
I built mine a couple years back, when the frame with shipping to my door was under $800.
At that price I might do it again. But really waiting for something else, and for prices to be back where they belong.
The sniper climbs and descends better. Noticeably. If you don't like whatever flex you are feeling with the sniper, I doubt you'll like the 936.
But get the frame. It's what you want to do, so go for it.
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Thank you Brex for the extensive reply! My auto-correct stepped in. My Sniper is now 120/120 after the summer (Formula 33/DPS), but honestly, I don't feel much of a difference from the 120/100 mm. Unfortunately, I am on the medium size so I cannot easily fit two bottles in. The Carbonda can potentially fit two with a special bottle holder.
I might have been unlucky with the problems or just abuse the bike too much (tough I am below 65 kg). I have not seen many people with the same type of problems on the Sniper...
Could you also please describe a bit more what feels worse on the Carbonda bike? Does the bike go through the travel too quick and/or is not supple enough. Does it wobbles too much on the climbs, has worse traction? Any subjective or objective inputs are very welcome. :)
To what I can see from the sparse pictures of the rear end, the hanger looks like it is attached by a small bolt, but I it mostly guessing. Could you please (or someone else) comment on that?
And my first question still holds: Does someone knows if the Slack-R would fit in the frame?
I really appreciate your help! Tomas
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I've decided I want to pick up an FM936. Seems like I can contact Wing via Alibaba and make it happen that way. Are there other ways to get ahold of this bike in the US? Other manufacturers that people are having good experiences with?
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I've decided I want to pick up an FM936. Seems like I can contact Wing via Alibaba and make it happen that way. Are there other ways to get ahold of this bike in the US? Other manufacturers that people are having good experiences with?
You should contact wing by email at wing (at) carbonda com this is the easiest way
To choose options like color, bb, shipping option, etc.
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Adam was quick to respond to a first email. He's gone radio silent now that I'm ready to part with my cash though ?!?
Tried Wing.. bounceback failure :(
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I was in contact with Wing whole time, almost 50 mails back and forth. My frame is just few hundreds miles from me ;D
All the parts are ready to go. Went with R232 165x45 shock (120mm linkage), remote for the shock. Fork is gonna be 120mm SID ultimate. Shimano groupset, XT rd, slx cranks, mixed brakes... xr391 rims (cca 1600g wheelset) and KS dropper 125mm. Hoping I'm gonna be around 11.5kg with the build. Don't want to hit 12kg mark.
My current Orbea Alma alloy is 10.35kg without dropper and with SID SL. Gonna transfer most of the stuff from it to FM936, so it means around 400g more for dropper, 200g fork, and rest will be difference in frame weight plus shock and remote. Hoping carbonda wont be more than 500g heavier with shock. It's alloy ht vs carbon fully.
What do you think guys, how much alma 2022. alloy frame weights? Can't find info anywhere.
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Adam was quick to respond to a first email. He's gone radio silent now that I'm ready to part with my cash though ?!?
Tried Wing.. bounceback failure :(
Sometimes, their email get in the spam.
If you run your own email server today, Google and Microsoft makes your life miserable
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It's aliveeee!
Frame arrived yesterday. Shiping was very fast, I was so surprised! Here's the detailed build:
fm936 SL size L
SID ult 120
Dt r232 remote
XT/deore brakes
391 rims with ztto/dt hubs
ztto cassette 9-50 ult pro
slx cranks
cheap light pedals
aliex handlebar/stem combo 40mm
recon race 2.35 rear/ pirrelli scorpion 2.4 front (not 2.4 tbh, 2.35 recon race is wider on a same rim)
KS rage-i 125 dropper
shimano dropper lever
Build landed on 11.4kg and I'm satisfied. Will go a bit more weight weenie in the future. Went for a ride and I'm thrilled! The body position is exactly on spot. Size is perfect (185cm). Downhill performance is exceptional. Uphill is really good, not better than my Alma though. I went for shot stem/bar combo and I notice that on steeper uphills the wheel wanders a bit and needs a bit leaning forward to keep it stable. But it's expected since wheelbase is enormous...
forgot about remote... method I linked before from a german forum worked well. The flexible housing is kind of stiff, but it doesn't kink. The system works well and I have to say that I do need that lockout while on flat road. I do notice bobbing while fully open. DT has one middle position on a damper called "ride" and it's perfect for smoth gravel track. That way I can go a bit plusher on sag, making the fully open ride plush as a pillow. There's no sag indicator, I guess it's around 30%, a bit less perhaps.
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It's aliveeee!
...
aliex handlebar/stem combo 40mm
...
Nice bike with a nice view ! 8)
Do you have the link to the bar/stem combo ?
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Thanks! Sure thing. It's 760-40 size
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002586472177.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.38.3cad1802LJWgmm
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A more general question on rear shock choice. In particular, choosing between 2pos and 3pos shock. What are your experiences with your setup, have you tried both options (not necessarily on the same bike) and what led to choosing one way or another (other than lighter 2pos weight).
Looking at most other models, NS synonym, orbea oiz, vitus rapide, bmc fourstroke, etc tend to use 2pos shock, but scott spark is with 3.
In my case, primary riding conditions will be forrest, sometimes a bit hilly and rooty, but no mountains whatsoever, unless I would go stage racing abroad. Bike would be used for XC, havent decided on 120 or 100 front.
Thank you.
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Lots of shocks do fine with a 2-position or no lever at all but on the higher end, those tend to have at least a LSC compression dial (example Fox Float X — even the Performance model, which isn’t really any different from the Elite or Factory internally, has a dial stem hidden under the plastic cap on the piggyback that can be used with a 3D printed dial or Fox aftermarket dial though the latter has been “sold out” for a long time, probably to prevent people from buying used shocks to do this mod).
Generally speaking, 3-position is better because it allows for a third option other than Open/Descend or Climb. A well tuned shock ought to spend most of its time in the middle of the LSC range rather than a more on/off setup.
If you don’t do a lot of long intense descents, and get a good tune, this isn’t a huge issue.
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Scott has 3pos, but in the middle pos they both adjust compression and limit travel by about 30% by adjusting positive chamber volume via valve. I think it's possible to install nude shock in both 936 and 909.
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A more general question on rear shock choice. In particular, choosing between 2pos and 3pos shock. What are your experiences with your setup, have you tried both options (not necessarily on the same bike) and what led to choosing one way or another (other than lighter 2pos weight).
Looking at most other models, NS synonym, orbea oiz, vitus rapide, bmc fourstroke, etc tend to use 2pos shock, but scott spark is with 3.
In my case, primary riding conditions will be forrest, sometimes a bit hilly and rooty, but no mountains whatsoever, unless I would go stage racing abroad. Bike would be used for XC, havent decided on 120 or 100 front.
Thank you.
For the 936, 120 up front is very nice. I may try 130, easy change for a pike.
As far as lockout, for modern shocks you don't need to really use it for most riding. I think the exception is racing, where you have some gravel road climb that is long or something. Otherwise a properly tuned modern shock should be ridden open.
I had a fuel 90 back in 2002. The performance was so bad, that I ended up riding it super high pressure most of the time because the pedal bob was terrible. It was so bad that I sold it and started riding hard tails only. A friend of mine convinced me a few years ago to give full sus another try and that they are so much better now.
I bought a cheap bxt type frame to test it out. He was 100% right. It is so much better. I have Fox shock on that and it is just smooth, I never lock it out. I built up the 936 with a rock shox over xmas this year, just took it out. Again, awesome, never need to use the lockout.
FYI, my friend is a road cat 1 racer and one of the top amateur mountain bikers in Washington. He tells me he never uses the lockout, I think he said he used it maybe one race that had a super long gravel climb.
So my point in all this, I think the use of a lockout is not really necessary with modern shocks except for the most elite riders/racers and I think most people use it either for piece of mind or they have an improperly set up/bad shock.
Just my take.
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Any ideas what's going on there? Crash?
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...Otherwise a properly tuned modern shock should be ridden open...
Are you tuning your shock yourself ?
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Are you tuning your shock yourself ?
yes I am. I have a shockwiz also, and that works pretty well for the LSC, rebound, and tokens. When you really dive into shock tune it is kind of interesting.
You start off setting the sag. Then you ride and play with the LSC and rebound. Then you can add a token and the hole feel changes. The shockwiz helps with the LSC and rebound a lot, especially if you can't feel the subtle differences as much, like most of us average riders.
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Are you tuning your shock yourself ?
The other thing most people don't know, is that if you turn that high speed compression knob you disable the low speed compression tune. So you should be riding with your HSC wide open and set the shock for your normal trail. Then if you happen to do something like extreme downhllls, that is where you use HSC for that specific section then open it back up.
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Hi Chinertown-ers.
I'm very new here, but have very much enjoyed reading through the plethora of information about these carbon frames and some of the awesome builds.
I'm very keen on the idea of a Carbonda FM909 or 936, or ICAN S3.
I've seen the great posts regarding anti squat and leverage ratios for these bikes, and I'm wondering whether it's possible to compare to current bikes out there (specifically a 2021 Spark 910)? In appearance the 936 and ICAN frames are very similar to the Spark, and they both use 165mm trunnion shocks. I'd really love to know how they feel as a pedaling platform compared to what I'd potentially be coming from.
Thanks heaps.
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Further to my previous post.
Does the 909 or "super light" 936 have a weight limit? I asked Wing, but he might not have understood as he didn't answer it.
And, does the 100mm (standard) version of the 936 have a more "supportive" or "firmer" leverage ratio with it's shorter linkage?
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The Vitus Rapide FS CRX seems to come second(after the Epic Pro) in:
Best cross-country mountain bikes 2023 - https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/best-cross-country-bikes/ :)
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The Vitus Rapide FS CRX seems to come second(after the Epic Pro) in:
Best cross-country mountain bikes 2023 - https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/best-cross-country-bikes/ :)
I saw that but also feel BR is a partner with Chain Reaction Cycles and aren’t 100% isolated in their reviews.
Anyone ask about a rear triangle with UDH so we can run the new Sram stuff?
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Anyone ask about a rear triangle with UDH so we can run the new Sram stuff?
I was going to ask the same question ???
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I was going to ask the same question ???
I just tried to order one.
How unique is the frame spacing to work with the UDH? Is there a chance the 936 is already compatible?
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I just tried to order one.
How unique is the frame spacing to work with the UDH? Is there a chance the 936 is already compatible?
Here is a picture of the 936 hanger slot and a picture from the design variants from Sram. It looks like variant 5 or something there could work with a custom machined shim.
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I asked Carbonda about UDH and the new SRAM derailleur for the FM936 and FM909, let's see what they say.
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AFAIK 909 is UDH already...
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AFAIK 909 is UDH already...
Yes it is. Says it right on the spec page.
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As expected the FM 909 is UDH already.
The FM 936 is left in the dust ::)
Maybe we could come up with a 3D printed part as @adroitrider pointed out.
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Does anybody know which hanger fits for a FM936 and maybe if they are available from any seller within EU?
(Like bike24, bike-components, bike discount, wiggle etc..)
Thanks
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Does anybody know which hanger fits for a FM936 and maybe if they are available from any seller within EU?
(Like bike24, bike-components, bike discount, wiggle etc..)
Thanks
https://www.wiggle.com/vitus-hanger-48-rapide-fs-2021
Pretty sure that will fit.
The Vitus Rapide FS is the same frame
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As expected the FM 909 is UDH already.
The FM 936 is left in the dust ::)
Maybe we could come up with a 3D printed part as @adroitrider pointed out.
Did you hear back from them? I haven’t.
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https://www.wiggle.com/vitus-hanger-48-rapide-fs-2021
Pretty sure that will fit.
The Vitus Rapide FS is the same frame
Perfect, thanks!
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Did you hear back from them? I haven’t.
Yes, sorry for the delay, only the 909 is UDH
But maybe we could 3D-print something as you mentioned already if I remember well.
Resisting(strongly) to not take my FM936 to the family house in Croatia, and ... yeah... a 909 ::)
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familiar?
https://www.detrailbikes.com/sv/stig-115/
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familiar?
https://www.detrailbikes.com/sv/stig-115/
Interesting, their entire lineup looks like Carbonda but the geo charts are slightly different. Curious if that is the new linkage for the 936 that they're claiming only 115mm of travel on with a 45mm shock.
Edit: I missed the part where its a 4-bar linkage, so the FlyBike FM1106, not 936. Their trail bike does look like the FM1001 though and geo chart is still a little different.
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Even more interesting....they sell the bike (frame or complete) with an Ohlins TTX Air 1 shock. I didn't know a shock like that would fit in the frame.
https://www.detrailbikes.com/sv/produkt/kolfiberram-stig-115/ (https://www.detrailbikes.com/sv/produkt/kolfiberram-stig-115/)
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Hey folks, so I finally received my frame after waiting since February. 120mm rear end. Can someone confirm for me that the hardware I need to mount my 2023 Rockshox Deluxe Ultimate is 30x8?
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Hello fellow riders!
I am starting to order components for the build and would like to have an input on something that I may have missed and should add. Please see list below.
Also, is there a consensus on ordering headset from Carbonda vs elsewhere?
The build will be for XCO/XCM racing, I am 191cm with 93cm inseam. It will be regular XL painted in still undecided color ;D any photos with completed builds painted by Carbonda are more than welcome. Decided to build 100/100 rather than go to new 120/120 linkage. Goal is to be under 11kg without going too crazy in the budget.
Note: there is additional 10% discount for sale items in R2. Ex. XTR brake set can be had for around 360e.
Thank you and have a great summer of riding.
(http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2079.0;attach=15400)
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Hello fellow riders!
I am starting to order components for the build and would like to have an input on something that I may have missed and should add. Please see list below.
Also, is there a consensus on ordering headset from Carbonda vs elsewhere?
The build will be for XCO/XCM racing, I am 191cm with 93cm inseam. It will be regular XL painted in still undecided color ;D any photos with completed builds painted by Carbonda are more than welcome. Decided to build 100/100 rather than go to new 120/120 linkage. Goal is to be under 11kg without going too crazy in the budget.
Note: there is additional 10% discount for sale items in R2. Ex. XTR brake set can be had for around 360e.
Thank you and have a great summer of riding.
(http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2079.0;attach=15400)
You get what you pay for...the carbonda's did it's job ust fine for over a year, Yes a 60 euro cane creek 40 is much better, but not 4times better considering the price ....
Btw why going full XT and picking ali stuff on place I would never go with my length en weight; cockpit. Just asking not judging.
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Thank you for feedback Medico, will order the headset with frame then. It will have to be replaced at some point so if it holds for a season it will be enough for the price paid.
That's a fair question. I generally have similar thoughts in relation to contact points in bicycle and especially front ones as broken saddle may not do much damage, but broken handlebar on the jump might cause serious issues. I would say that based on research in this and other MTB forums, as well as my own (although quite limited and not with handlebars) experience, if you buy from a reputable (ie present for the market for a long time, lots of feedback, etc) source it should be OK. Although, again, I am 85kgs so what is ok for 20kgs lighter person might not be for me. Then, generally, if the item costs more, the quality is also better (not always), so buying from aliexpress should not be just taking a random cheap carbon piece. The handlebar choice is essentially aesthetically driven, rather than performance related, hence I cannot justify paying ~350e for original syncros - it does not give ANY performance benefit, just the look. So, I am taking a calculated risk to buy and try a contact piece from aliexpress. If I notice anything during initial riding that does not make me feel confident in the item, then I guess there will be a loss on investment. In terms of my riding, my terrain does not have almost any jumps, so mostly it's just rutty, slightly hilly forest. The specific handlebar is this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003652531612.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.12.21ef1802mtK1GP and it has a significant amount of feedback over past half a year.
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003652531612.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.12.21ef1802mtK1GP and it has a significant amount of feedback over past half a year.
Thanks for the reply...i've recently read a topic, I think a german one about the across copy, and they where excited about it. But I wouldn't take the change personally, especially it's an onepiece design.
But if it's works, it ain't stupid ::).
Good luck building the bike, you'll love it like me and the others
(4th year and almost 15k, 2e headset, 2,5x bearing change and 3x new rear triangle (first productionissue, second crash)
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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003652531612.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.12.21ef1802mtK1GP and it has a significant amount of feedback over past half a year.
I have a TOSEEK flat carbon bar on my Spark and it has been excellent. Granted it's not the integrated unit you are looking at, but it maybe gives an indication as to the quality of the products TOSEEK produces/sells. The fit and finish are perfect and it has held up without issue on my rides. I wouldn't hesitate to buy from TOSEEK again.
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(https://i.imgur.com/UAfqVfv.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/8UDGzG9.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/OSXxdqg.jpg?1)
'Finished' mine for now. Had a great first ride. Everythings worked perfectecly as inteded, only had to get used to the geo. Handles great ones you get a hang of it.
I made the wheels myself but it took me two attempts regarding spoke lengths for the straight pull hubs.... bummer but they ride great in the end. ca. 1500 grams total.
I used Slapper Tape for a chainguide (only mounted in the second picture) and i can really recommend that stuff. Very flexible solution.
I use a 165x42,5mm shock and no problems so far. Frame is a L.
I might need a 60mm stem - bike feels shorter than expected so im interested as to see what it does to the handling.
Im running 170mm cranks with 25% sag and no strikes so far. (4 rides in... )
I have a BSA BB and the window to help route the Dropper cable is very small so it was a mayor pain in ass. Got it in the end though. I did use a foam liner which makes the friction higher i.e more difficult.
Haven't weighed the bike yet but frame was to spec.
Last pic is clearance of 2,35" tires on i29mm rims and a 32T Oval chainring.
Overall it feels like a GREAT purchase. :D
Could anyone tell what color that is?
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Can I use a fox 34 with 140mm? Can Anyone help me?
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You can but your HT angle will decrease either to ~66 or 65 degrees (120 or 100 versions, respectively). Same to ST angle (decrease by 2 to 1 degree).
You can use google translate and read https://www.mtb-news.de/forum/t/carbonda-fm-936-erfahrungsaustausch.941960/page-107#post-18638616 where someone has already setup 140/110 FM936. Also read this - http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2079.msg24785/topicseen.html#msg24785 .
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Hi all,
I had the high compression tune installed on the SidLuxe and have it set to 200psi right now. I’m 190lbs. Sag is currently 35% on a 42.5mm stroke. The shock tuner had it so long that I started shopping for a backup/second shock and determined I want Low Speed Compression tuning.
Not sure if anyone saw, but RockShox came out with a SidLuxe WCID for the Specialized Epic that has low speed compression tuning. This might work it’s way into the normal SidLuxe but for now I’m gonna look for a Deluxe Nude…
I’ll report back on the high compression tune after a few rides.
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Hi all,
I had the high compression tune installed on the SidLuxe and have it set to 200psi right now. I’m 190lbs. Sag is currently 35% on a 42.5mm stroke. The shock tuner had it so long that I started shopping for a backup/second shock and determined I want Low Speed Compression tuning.
Not sure if anyone saw, but RockShox came out with a SidLuxe WCID for the Specialized Epic that has low speed compression tuning. This might work it’s way into the normal SidLuxe but for now I’m gonna look for a Deluxe Nude…
I’ll report back on the high compression tune after a few rides.
I weigh about the same as you and changed from a delixe rt3 MM tune to a 23 delixe ultimate Low compression/linear. Did it because I couldn't use whole travel of the 42.5mm shock without lowering the sag more than 30% (no spacers, around 190psi).
Now I ride the new shock with low compression and Linear with 2 volume reducers and 190psi.l; I think it's a totall different bike. I tracks very good, it's lively compared to dead. About the same paddlebob. But I'm in doubt what to do, because I sometimes need more support, but don't bottom out. Maybe I do change to a medium compressiontune.
But I don't know why people of my weight needs a high tune ( or de sid is a totally different shock?)
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A very fun vitus rapide or fm936.
https://us.vitusbikes.com/blogs/stories/pop-art-rapide
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I weigh about the same as you and changed from a delixe rt3 MM tune to a 23 delixe ultimate Low compression/linear. Did it because I couldn't use whole travel of the 42.5mm shock without lowering the sag more than 30% (no spacers, around 190psi).
Now I ride the new shock with low compression and Linear with 2 volume reducers and 190psi.l; I think it's a totall different bike. I tracks very good, it's lively compared to dead. About the same paddlebob. But I'm in doubt what to do, because I sometimes need more support, but don't bottom out. Maybe I do change to a medium compressiontune.
But I don't know why people of my weight needs a high tune ( or de sid is a totally different shock?)
I’m no expert, but my assumption is that a high compression tube would give me more support at the beginning of the shock stroke. Allowing me to run lower pressure and the ability to tap into all 42.5mm of stroke.
I’ve ran about 350psi with the M tune.
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A very fun vitus rapide or fm936.
https://us.vitusbikes.com/blogs/stories/pop-art-rapide
Sweet setup. I want the AXS seatpost!
Funny how they are running a SidLuxe Ultimate. I wonder if they are using a special tune…
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I’m no expert, but my assumption is that a high compression tube would give me more support at the beginning of the shock stroke. Allowing me to run lower pressure and the ability to tap into all 42.5mm of stroke.
I’ve ran about 350psi with the M tune.
Could be, but the sag would be more and so also less peddle clearance...
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Could be, but the sag would be more and so also less peddle clearance...
Agree, thus why I am shopping for a shock with LSC.
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Just be clear, the H M L tune is different than LSC feature on the shock. Nearly all RockShox shocks that aren’t super weight weenie have a blue dial for Low Speed Compression tuning.
Picture attached for reference.
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Just be clear, the H M L tune is different than LSC feature on the shock. Nearly all RockShox shocks that aren’t super weight weenie have a blue dial for Low Speed Compression tuning.
Picture attached for reference.
I know...this should only do something with the lsc...only thing i feel is less small bumb compliance and less peddlebob. No Difference during big compressions. Hsc knob would be a better option
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And I believe someone said the Super Deluxe can’t fit on the 936?
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Someone using the X-FUSION O2 PRO shock on this frame?
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005005118552291.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.0.0.21efcaa4bJkoEH&gps-id=pcOrderListRecommend&scm=1007.38956.333894.0&scm_id=1007.38956.333894.0&scm-url=1007.38956.333894.0&pvid=319c5906-8470-4c1b-98bd-e8ae7c491625&_t=gps-id%3ApcOrderListRecommend%2Cscm-url%3A1007.38956.333894.0%2Cpvid%3A319c5906-8470-4c1b-98bd-e8ae7c491625%2Ctpp_buckets%3A668%232846%238113%231998&pdp_npi=3%40dis%21USD%21265.33%21204.3%21%21%21%21%21%402101c5b216830708829817160eb5d5%2112000031721900722%21rec%21BR%214558003811&gatewayAdapt=glo2bra
(https://i.imgur.com/Ob19xne.png)
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Hi guys, just signed up after reading this whole thread over the last few months and ordering a FM936 myself in a cool olive green paint scheme.
It arrived at last week and I have 2 questions which Wing hasn't responded to yet:
-1: does the newer FM936 versions still have a 31,6 seatpost diameter? Mine came with a plastic plug in the seattube saying 33.5, and my 31.6 seatpost seems a bit loose. Though 33.5 seems like a strange diameter for a seatpost so I'm guessing this is the seatclamp diameter, correct?
- 2: At the rear shock, is there supposed to be room between the top bolt of and the shock? I mounted a Fox Float DPS factory 165x45mm trunion but the bolt is way smaller than the opening in the shock. Is this right or does it need a bushing/shim?
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJ7PNr4n/rear-shock-mount.jpg)
Thanks in advance!
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You need shock hardware. The 100mm linkage is 8x22.2mm and I believe the 120mm linkage is 8x30mm.
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For crankset I will use Deore XT m8100, that have a chainline of 52mm. The Chainring will need offset to have the right chainline?
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Frame has boost spacing, so chainline 52mm is OK. Yesterday I mounted 32t oval chainring (BCD104 for PM spider) with -2mm offset (50mm chainline) and today I'll be testing. It should be also fine.
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Frame has boost spacing, so chainline 52mm is OK. Yesterday I mounted 32t oval chainring (BCD104 for PM spider) with -2mm offset (50mm chainline) and today I'll be testing. It should be also fine.
So, if I buy a chainring with 0 offset the chainline will be correct?
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Yes, then the chainline will be as the one designed for boost. By the way, the biggest chainring FM936 can accomodate is round 36t and oval 34t (if have 0 offset). I've just tested the 32t oval with -2mm offset, and it works perfect, but is close to the chainstay.
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Frame has boost spacing, so chainline 52mm is OK. Yesterday I mounted 32t oval chainring (BCD104 for PM spider) with -2mm offset (50mm chainline) and today I'll be testing. It should be also fine.
It looks ok, but maybe not a good idea.
On the 2-3 small cogs the chain crosses more than designed for, and may make contact with the cog just above.
Causing your chain to wear laterally.
I saw that on my Eagle chains, using a non boost PM.
Not a big deal maybe, but think about all those wasted friction watts 8)
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Just finished installing the new 120mm link. A pain in the ass it was! I rather install new bearings in the bike.
Got the new link through the germin mtb forum for a reasonable price, but if I had bought it directly from Carbonda I would have returned it. The measurements where the mounting hardware should fit were of by almost 2mm. It should be 30mm it was nearly 28...so had to sand it in shape. But its done.
Hopefully it was worth the trouble going from 42.5 to 45mm stroke. There aren't much reviews of the new link, so bit of a gamble.
Also have to check if I didn't f#cked up the shim tune of my rsmdeluxe ultimate 2023. It was Low compression according to the rs website and trailhead app, but looked different when I opened it compared to the shim tune manual. If I did everything well it should be a medium compression tune now...maybe I will do the rebound as well(but it also looked different...).
We'll see tomorrow. Keep you posted.
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Frame has boost spacing, so chainline 52mm is OK. Yesterday I mounted 32t oval chainring (BCD104 for PM spider) with -2mm offset (50mm chainline) and today I'll be testing. It should be also fine.
Using a chainring with 0mm of offset, the chainline will be on the middle of the cassette on this frame?
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Hi
I am looking to replace the pivot bearings for this frame
Does anyone have the bearing specs handy - I only have 1 bearing spec from Wing's drawing he sent me. Do you guys buy from Wing or buy locally? Are there any additional parts other than the bearings that I may need to replace with the bearings? I know in one of the bearings there is a metal clip? Does this need to be replaced?
Additionally, does anyone know what size bearing puller/slide hammer I need to remove the bearings?
Thank you! Any information will be really helpful as I am scratching my head here. Love the bike!!
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Hi,
Is the Vitus Rapide FS & FM936 exactly the same in terms of getting the same hardware and bearings?
I got 2 assembly drawings, 1 from vitus and 1 from carbonda.
I notice on the carbonda drawing, there is a 'clip' in one of the pivots as Part No. 10.
this doesn't exist in the vitus drawing.
Please let me know what you guys think
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Hi,
Is the Vitus Rapide FS & FM936 exactly the same in terms of getting the same hardware and bearings?
I got 2 assembly drawings, 1 from vitus and 1 from carbonda.
I notice on the carbonda drawing, there is a 'clip' in one of the pivots as Part No. 10.
this doesn't exist in the vitus drawing.
Please let me know what you guys think
The clips you mentioned are only in the link for 100mm. In the new link they aren't there anymore. I personally think the older link was a better design; more coverage of the bearings.
So I think the vitus has a slightly different link design... But for your bearings it doens't matter... If it's the same size it's fine.
Ps last sunday I've done the first ride with the new link. More ground clearence, but I've also ridden it with just 25% sag. Felt very direct, but also a bit harsh. Think I need to lower the SAG.
Strangely I need less psi(165psi by 82kg instead of 180psi) with the new link, but could be accounted to the new tune, medium in stead of light...
Someone comments on this?
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Just finished installing the new 120mm link. A pain in the ass it was! I rather install new bearings in the bike.
Got the new link through the germin mtb forum for a reasonable price, but if I had bought it directly from Carbonda I would have returned it. The measurements where the mounting hardware should fit were of by almost 2mm. It should be 30mm it was nearly 28...so had to sand it in shape. But its done.
Hopefully it was worth the trouble going from 42.5 to 45mm stroke. There aren't much reviews of the new link, so bit of a gamble.
Also have to check if I didn't f#cked up the shim tune of my rsmdeluxe ultimate 2023. It was Low compression according to the rs website and trailhead app, but looked different when I opened it compared to the shim tune manual. If I did everything well it should be a medium compression tune now...maybe I will do the rebound as well(but it also looked different...).
We'll see tomorrow. Keep you posted.
stupid question, I can change my old FM936 to 120MM just buying a new link and shock?
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But for your bearings it doens't matter... If it's the same size it's fine.
So the Vitus specs I recieved may not fit my Fm936?
I have the list of parts from Wing but the bearing spec's aren't on it - just dimensions of the bearings.
Also, should I buy the replacement clip? Or is this re-usable? Does the clip come out with a pair of tweezers?
Just want to minimize downtime during my bearing replacement so I have everything handy.
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stupid question, I can change my old FM936 to 120MM just buying a new link and shock?
The same shock will work but the travel will depend on it's parameters. Ie only 45mm travel shock should have full 120mm of travel. The good news is that most 165 trunion shocks are actually 45mm travel but have spacers to limit it. Ex. I have Sidluxe Select+ which is 37.5x165 it can be converted to 45x165 by removing 7.5mm spacer that is within. The same for 40x165 and 42.5x165, just different size spacers. I am not sure if that applies to all manufacturers though.
Example of it would be https://www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/service-manuals/rockshox/rear-suspension/2021-2023-sidluxe-service-manual-english.pdf page 8, the green part. I think there people who commented how they removed it either in this or in mtb-news.de thread dedicated for FM936.
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So the Vitus specs I recieved may not fit my Fm936?
I have the list of parts from Wing but the bearing spec's aren't on it - just dimensions of the bearings.
Also, should I buy the replacement clip? Or is this re-usable? Does the clip come out with a pair of tweezers?
Just want to minimize downtime during my bearing replacement so I have everything handy.
Please Search this topic for your answer, it's in here. I know for sure..or open up your frame and look on the bearings.
Clips are re-usable and you should use smalltip plier to get them out.
Good luck
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I have a regular M8100 crank (M8100-1), with 52mm chainline, there is 1cm between the chain and the chainstay.
(https://i.ibb.co/sv11hyR/DSC-0463.jpg)
Are you using a 32T round chainring?
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Quick question... 163cm(5'4") tall, 73.5cm(29") inseem. Size small is appropriate, correct? Would size medium be too much of a stretch?
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Hey all, on the 936 in size Medium, have done a handful of rides on it... feeling regrets choosing the SL size M. I am 182 cm with longish legs. It feels cramped at times. A ride I did with lots of tight corners (I live in rocky, chunky Arizona) revealed how awkward I feel on the bike. Then again I could also just be lacking cornering skills. I'm coming from a size L Specialized Fuse with a 170 cranks and a 45mm stem. First time riding a full sus, the hardtail felt so much more straight forward. I ride rough XC with some occasional rough trail.
I heard a lot of cases reading through all the pages for "sizing up", but I am also taking RAD into consideration. But when the suspension (Rockshox RT M rebound, L compression) is active, steering get's wonky. It feels like reach shortens. The straight-line speed is excellent though.
I am currently riding a 50mm stem with 780 bars, but I did also pick up a 75mm stem to lengthen things out. The result was a floppy steering, I'm feeling stuck and not sure if there's anything that can be done to "fix" the fit. I'm open to any ideas y'all may have. If I must go large, wouldn't that make my stem tiny?? I am definitely on the bike to tackle challenging/technical climb, the downhill is a fun bonus :)
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Hey all, on the 936 in size Medium, have done a handful of rides on it... feeling regrets choosing the SL size M. I am 182 cm with longish legs. It feels cramped at times. A ride I did with lots of tight corners (I live in rocky, chunky Arizona) revealed how awkward I feel on the bike. Then again I could also just be lacking cornering skills. I'm coming from a size L Specialized Fuse with a 170 cranks and a 45mm stem. First time riding a full sus, the hardtail felt so much more straight forward. I ride rough XC with some occasional rough trail.
I heard a lot of cases reading through all the pages for "sizing up", but I am also taking RAD into consideration. But when the suspension (Rockshox RT M rebound, L compression) is active, steering get's wonky. It feels like reach shortens. The straight-line speed is excellent though.
I am currently riding a 50mm stem with 780 bars, but I did also pick up a 75mm stem to lengthen things out. The result was a floppy steering, I'm feeling stuck and not sure if there's anything that can be done to "fix" the fit. I'm open to any ideas y'all may have. If I must go large, wouldn't that make my stem tiny?? I am definitely on the bike to tackle challenging/technical climb, the downhill is a fun bonus :)
I think you're trying to make this bike something that it isn't. It is a modern geometry, long wheelbase, slack headtube, cross country/down country frame. RAD might be ok for Trail and Enduro builds where you're hitting jumps and needing to pull the front end a lot, personally I think it makes no sense when you have no reference frame for angle, but this bike is closer to a road fit, long and low. I would definitely consider cutting your bars, running a stem that long with wide bars on this frame is going to give weird steering. The long wheelbase can also take time to get used to for maneuvering tight turns, but it is very much capable of them. I'm 188cm on a size large with a 60mm stem and 750mm bars that I might cut to 740, otherwise it the fit is great and no issue with steering.
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I think you're trying to make this bike something that it isn't. It is a modern geometry, long wheelbase, slack headtube, cross country/down country frame. RAD might be ok for Trail and Enduro builds where you're hitting jumps and needing to pull the front end a lot, personally I think it makes no sense when you have no reference frame for angle, but this bike is closer to a road fit, long and low. I would definitely consider cutting your bars, running a stem that long with wide bars on this frame is going to give weird steering. The long wheelbase can also take time to get used to for maneuvering tight turns, but it is very much capable of them. I'm 188cm on a size large with a 60mm stem and 750mm bars that I might cut to 740, otherwise it the fit is great and no issue with steering.
Partly I agree, but cutting your bars is a bad advise if people have a wonky feeling, it will get worse. When tight corning is your problem sizing up won't help either, it makes it worse. Probably it's your skills...it needs to be turned more like a motorbike in titght cornes, lay the bike down instead of you.
And other thing, light compression demping with your length could also be an issue if you're +++kg's. The wont be supportive in cornering, so maybe using less sag?
Good luck
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Before you cut the bars, move the grips and all of the controls in 10mm on either side and go for a ride. Focus on keeping your hands on the new position and see how it feels. Once you've cut them, you can't go back.
I presume your seat is already as far back as it will allow?
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Partly I agree, but cutting your bars is a bad advise if people have a wonky feeling, it will get worse. When tight corning is your problem sizing up won't help either, it makes it worse. Probably it's your skills...it needs to be turned more like a motorbike in titght cornes, lay the bike down instead of you.
And other thing, light compression damping with your length could also be an issue if you're +++kg's. The wont be supportive in cornering, so maybe using less sag?
Good luck
Thanks for the feedback, yes I was concerned about sizing up being too cumbersome in the first place. I’m open to changing my cockpit set up. From the start, I wished to avoid a bike that’s hard to maneuver (wheelbase) hence the Medium. I weight 78-79 kg, to prevent the suspensión from being too active, i have it pumped to about 230-250 psi i believe. I get lots of good small bump absorption, and the suspension works as intended everywhere else. Haven’t bottomed out either.
What I find strange though is that Vitus specs their top of the line size M with an 80mm stem and 740 bars… what? And the size L goes to a 90mm stem!!
Also: What would the new 120mm rear link offer me? Seems like it rides with a higher bb, maybe that’s an opportunity to get a size L and ride it lower in the sag to feel more “inside the bike” as opposed to being perched atop it.
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Thanks for the feedback, yes I was concerned about sizing up being too cumbersome in the first place. I’m open to changing my cockpit set up. From the start, I wished to avoid a bike that’s hard to maneuver (wheelbase) hence the Medium. I weight 78-79 kg, to prevent the suspensión from being too active, i have it pumped to about 230-250 psi i believe. I get lots of good small bump absorption, and the suspension works as intended everywhere else. Haven’t bottomed out either.
What I find strange though is that Vitus specs their top of the line size M with an 80mm stem and 740 bars… what? And the size L goes to a 90mm stem!!
Also: What would the new 120mm rear link offer me? Seems like it rides with a higher bb, maybe that’s an opportunity to get a size L and ride it lower in the sag to feel more “inside the bike” as opposed to being perched atop it.
It sounds like the sag is fine then.
Yes, you're right for a dc kind of bike 740mm seems off, I ride a 780mm with a 5cm stem and I'm 174cm! But If you look at the ns synonym they offer 60mm by 760mm for M, L and Xl.
I also have the 120mm rear link for a couple of weeks. It's even more on then in the bike even with 30+ sag. Helps for the peddle hits. But it doesn't feels that different to be honest, maybe bit more souple? You'll keep a fast snappy bike, not a totall different one.
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Before you cut the bars, move the grips and all of the controls in 10mm on either side and go for a ride. Focus on keeping your hands on the new position and see how it feels. Once you've cut them, you can't go back.
I presume your seat is already as far back as it will allow?
Yes that sounds good, and yes. I did just purchase a power saddle with rails that provide a platform further back from where my current fake power one sits. I will have to try that, but I know this bike is meant to be sat at zero offset and reaching forward. Looking to purchase a L now...
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It sounds like the sag is fine then.
Yes, you're right for a dc kind of bike 740mm seems off, I ride a 780mm with a 5cm stem and I'm 174cm! But If you look at the ns synonym they offer 60mm by 760mm for M, L and Xl.
I also have the 120mm rear link for a couple of weeks. It's even more on then in the bike even with 30+ sag. Helps for the peddle hits. But it doesn't feels that different to be honest, maybe bit more souple? You'll keep a fast snappy bike, not a totall different one.
Can you share any photos? I am probably going to buy a size L and try to sell my M. I think I will leave the shock with it, as it's all color matched at this point. I need to weight out here if the 120 rear with my 120 SID will be a better ride for my rocky, rough environment than keeping the travel at 42.5, or even 40.
Do you see any benefits of the 40mm or 42.5mm rears' travel? Or rather I should ask, is there a clear benefit to building with the new linkage. I am new to FS, so trying to make sense of it all. I had to really pump up my rear to 250 psi to make the L compression tune work for my trails, 23mm sag...
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Hey all, on the 936 in size Medium, have done a handful of rides on it... feeling regrets choosing the SL size M. I am 182 cm with longish legs. It feels cramped at times. A ride I did with lots of tight corners (I live in rocky, chunky Arizona) revealed how awkward I feel on the bike. Then again I could also just be lacking cornering skills. I'm coming from a size L Specialized Fuse with a 170 cranks and a 45mm stem. First time riding a full sus, the hardtail felt so much more straight forward. I ride rough XC with some occasional rough trail.
I heard a lot of cases reading through all the pages for "sizing up", but I am also taking RAD into consideration. But when the suspension (Rockshox RT M rebound, L compression) is active, steering get's wonky. It feels like reach shortens. The straight-line speed is excellent though.
I am currently riding a 50mm stem with 780 bars, but I did also pick up a 75mm stem to lengthen things out. The result was a floppy steering, I'm feeling stuck and not sure if there's anything that can be done to "fix" the fit. I'm open to any ideas y'all may have. If I must go large, wouldn't that make my stem tiny?? I am definitely on the bike to tackle challenging/technical climb, the downhill is a fun bonus :)
If you need to add length and stem doesn't work... try moving the seat back? Sorry if this sounds obvious but it might be a free upgrade!
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Can you share any photos? I am probably going to buy a size L and try to sell my M. I think I will leave the shock with it, as it's all color matched at this point. I need to weight out here if the 120 rear with my 120 SID will be a better ride for my rocky, rough environment than keeping the travel at 42.5, or even 40.
Do you see any benefits of the 40mm or 42.5mm rears' travel? Or rather I should ask, is there a clear benefit to building with the new linkage. I am new to FS, so trying to make sense of it all. I had to really pump up my rear to 250 psi to make the L compression tune work for my trails, 23mm sag...
The Fuse is a relatively slack hard tail. What specific geometry measurement drove you to a M? Was it wheel base only?
I have ridden my hardtail a lot this spring and it is a size smaller than my 936. One thing my riding buddies noticed is that I take less risks on my hard tail. I take the B line a lot, navigating around obstacles or high consequence features.
The 936 wants to go straight. It begs you to feather the brakes and seek the apex at speeds you would never even consider on a hard tail. You want the longer wheel base to provide confidence in cornering. To provide the counter balance to your body getting really low and into the bike.
Get the Large.
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The Fuse is a relatively slack hard tail. What specific geometry measurement drove you to a M? Was it wheel base only?
I have ridden my hardtail a lot this spring and it is a size smaller than my 936. One thing my riding buddies noticed is that I take less risks on my hard tail. I take the B line a lot, navigating around obstacles or high consequence features.
The 936 wants to go straight. It begs you to feather the brakes and seek the apex at speeds you would never even consider on a hard tail. You want the longer wheel base to provide confidence in cornering. To provide the counter balance to your body getting really low and into the bike.
Get the Large.
What a motivational response! I rode a size L Fuse, the reach and stack roughly match the size M. But man, in hindsight the effective top tube, bb drop (i think) and the feedback from a few forum threads (before I found Chinertown) had me leaning towards the size M.
I recently learned how the hardtail compress forward and gets a tad longer, where the full sus shrinks a bit. Getting cramped during the rear’s actuation.
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What a motivational response! I rode a size L Fuse, the reach and stack roughly match the size M. But man, in hindsight the effective top tube, bb drop (i think) and the feedback from a few forum threads (before I found Chinertown) had me leaning towards the size M.
I recently learned how the hardtail compress forward and gets a tad longer, where the full sus shrinks a bit. Getting cramped during the rear’s actuation.
I think those riders advocating for the smaller size are focused on XC racing where a very small percent of the course requires a long, low, slack bike. So, they shorten it and ride higher.
Most of my riding is for giggles and I’m chasing buddies on Yeti (SB140) Lunch Rides through a variety of terrain.
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I think those riders advocating for the smaller size are focused on XC racing where a very small percent of the course requires a long, low, slack bike. So, they shorten it and ride higher.
Most of my riding is for giggles and I’m chasing buddies on Yeti (SB140) Lunch Rides through a variety of terrain.
Gotcha, yeah I do enter in the occasional races when training and time permits, as I have a little girl now :D
Is this still a race-able bike in the 120 front/rear config?
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Gotcha, yeah I do enter in the occasional races when training and time permits, as I have a little girl now :D
Is this still a race-able bike in the 120 front/rear config?
Yes. For dry technical courses like Breck Epic, perfect bike.
For Iceman, not perfect.
For muddy tracks, not enough clearance at the rear seat stay or chain stay bottom bracket area.
Run what you brung!
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Quick question... 163cm(5'4") tall, 73.5cm(29") inseem. Size small is appropriate, correct? Would size medium be too much of a stretch?
Asking again...
Quick question... 163cm(5'4") tall, 73.5cm(29") inseem. Size small is appropriate, correct? Would size medium be too much of a stretch?
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I'm 5'7" with a 30" inside leg and I ride a small, there's no way I'd want a medium.
I can only just run a OneUp 120mm dropper before it bottoms out in the frame, using 165mm cranks.
Get a small.
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I'm 5'7" with a 30" inside leg and I ride a small, there's no way I'd want a medium.
I can only just run a OneUp 120mm dropper before it bottoms out in the frame, using 165mm cranks.
Get a small.
Thanks for responding!
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There are a lot of factors that impact sizing, especially if you're on the edge, however you're probably right in the middle of the range for small. On the contrary to qwerty, I'm 5'10.5" with 31" inseam, and ride a large with 80mm stem!
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Anyone try a 34 tooth oval? I have a 32T on now, but wondering about clearance.
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Anyone try a 34 tooth oval? I have a 32T on now, but wondering about clearance.
I rode the oval 34 all last season with 52mm chainline (shimano 12s - SLX cranks). Not much clearance, but OK. 36 oval wouldn't fit. Now I have 32t oval, which I like better :)
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I rode the oval 34 all last season with 52mm chainline (shimano 12s - SLX cranks). Not much clearance, but OK. 36 oval wouldn't fit. Now I have 32t oval, which I like better :)
Anyone try a 34 tooth oval? I have a 32T on now, but wondering about clearance.
How was the adjustment going from a round to an oval crank?
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I can't remember, it was so long time ago :) Just kidding. For me the main advantage of oval is when climbing (mtb race, step dirt climb). The power is more even all the time, and it is harder to slip the rear wheel.
For road riding I don't see the point, but marketing can see it :)
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Hi guys. I order a 936 frame, size S for my daughter. Someone here has one for sure. Could you check the maximum length the dropper fits into an S size frame? Thanks a lot
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@Yozha : if I were you, I would go to the NS bike website. They prove such information ....
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@Yozha : if I were you, I would go to the NS bike website. They prove such information ....
Do you mean https://nsbikes.com/? They have 130mm and 150mm travel frames, I don't think it's a 936?
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Do you mean https://nsbikes.com/? They have 130mm and 150mm travel frames, I don't think it's a 936?
https://nsbikes.com/synonym-rc-1,427,pl.html
The manual says 150mm.
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Are official geo measurements for the 936 available with the 120mm rear?
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Are official geo measurements for the 936 available with the 120mm rear?
Yes, Wing shared it with me, along with some other helpful info I requested:
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familiar?
https://www.detrailbikes.com/sv/stig-115/
https://icancycling.com/collections/mtb-frame/products/xc-full-suspension-mtb-bike-frame-s3
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Tried the High compression tune for 20miles. Switched to Low compression tune as mentioned by another in the thread. I like the Low tune. It lets me run a higher pressure and achieve a 30% sag.
I did send it out to a full time tuner, Trail Labs. They mentioned the IFP might have been setup wrong at the factory, preventing full travel.
I do get much closer to full travel at 225psi, I am 190lbs.
SidLuxe A1.
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But honestly, all my riding buddies pointed out that I should have just bought a new shock so that I had the M Compression tune as a backup.
Also, reading about Nino’s Flight Attendant SID(s) makes feel stupid for dropping money on the 200hr service and tune.
Anyone have a guess on the price of a SIDLuxe w Flight Attendant?
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But honestly, all my riding buddies pointed out that I should have just bought a new shock so that I had the M Compression tune as a backup.
Also, reading about Nino’s Flight Attendant SID(s) makes feel stupid for dropping money on the 200hr service and tune.
Anyone have a guess on the price of a SIDLuxe w Flight Attendant?
And what exactly is the leverage ratio on the OG FM936? I’m assuming this is the original travel one. I run a L compression tune, it’s very active and mutes a lot of small bumps. I have to run a pretty high PSI though, I think 260 psi on a rockshox Deluxe.
Side question here, if the leverage ratio was more like 2:1, what rockshox tune would be appropriate? I’m trying to understand the benefit of running a medium, or a high compression tune.
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And what exactly is the leverage ratio on the OG FM936? I’m assuming this is the original travel one. I run a L compression tune, it’s very active and mutes a lot of small bumps. I have to run a pretty high PSI though, I think 260 psi on a rockshox Deluxe.
Side question here, if the leverage ratio was more like 2:1, what rockshox tune would be appropriate? I’m trying to understand the benefit of running a medium, or a high compression tune.
Leverage ratio is 100/40, 2.5.
In my email exchange with Trail Labs, they mentioned the high PSI to achieve desired sag is correlated to the frame leverage ratio and shock design. Going 30-40psi over weight is normal, depending on frame.
When it came to the tune, my goal was increased plushness and achieving full stroke on big hits (3-4ft drops, g outs, and mistakes on rocky tech. If I’m racing, I notch up the rebound and pressure a bit.
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Hello all!
throught the internet page the dont reply me querys...
Has someone of you the contact person in Carbonda to contatact to, to order a frame or ask for details?
Thank you!
Miguel
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You can contact them at sales1@carbonda.com
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But honestly, all my riding buddies pointed out that I should have just bought a new shock so that I had the M Compression tune as a backup.
Also, reading about Nino’s Flight Attendant SID(s) makes feel stupid for dropping money on the 200hr service and tune.
Anyone have a guess on the price of a SIDLuxe w Flight Attendant?
My guess would be $1000. It's not available to the public yet. Nino's the only one racing it right now although I read the Trek team has been testing it.
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Yes, Wing shared it with me, along with some other helpful info I requested:
(https://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2079.0;attach=15964;image)
I was interested in seeing how well they preserved some of the original geometry with the 120mm option. They claim the same HTA and STA, and a 35mm BB sounds low for an XC bike, but still reasonable. However, the fork axle to crown is 520, which is more like a 110mm fork. Put a 120mm (or even 130mm) fork on there and the BB drop is going to be even less. The FM1001 BB drop is only 28mm, which is low for even a trail bike, but I have not seen any complaints yet.
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Wanted to say thank you to all who contributed to this thread as it was invaluable in the first FS build for me. Have only ridden FM936 few times but it feels night and day against my aluminum HT. It did end up half a kilo heavier than expected, but 11.2kg with pedals, power meter, bottle and garmin mounts for size XL seems competitive weight for 3.8k euro. Very glad to have found this forum. Hope everyone has a great summer on their bikes.
(http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2079.0;attach=16227) (http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2079.0;attach=16229)
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Can someone explain where I can get the link to turn the FM936 to 120MM? And which shock leght would work?
I have seen a lot of german speaking foruns talking about but the translation had me lost.
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Email Carbonda at sales1 @ carbonda dot com
It's meant for a 165x45mms hock
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Anyone having issues with the headset? I'm having an iritating sound coming of the front. Canecreak headset is in it, but having some play in the frame at the top, which should be normal considering this type of headsets.
Any ideas to fix it besides a lot of grease(which helps for a couple of xx km)?
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Email Carbonda at sales1 @ carbonda dot com
It's meant for a 165x45mms hock
they simply don´t answer
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I've reached out to Carbonda a couple of times over the past several weeks as well. I'm trying to purchase a couple of extra derailleur hangers to have on hand.....and crickets. No response from them at all.
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Here's my new ride. Size large with the 120mm rear link. I slowly purchased parts over a period of about six months as I saw them pop up on sale or on local classifieds. The color ended up being a darker blue than I was hoping for, but I've grown to really like it. It looks black in low light and photos, but up close or in the sun the blue peeks through. I appreciate everyone's experience and shared knowledge, it really helped me with my build.
I've been riding this for a couple of months now and have been really happy with it. The bike shop weighed it at around 26 lbs. Could I have saved a little weight...yep. I could have gone with a shorter or non-dropper seat post (currently running a 210mm OneUp) . I could have built up a lighter wheelset, used shorter bars, etc. etc. My focus with the build was to create a light duty trail bike rather than a XC bike, so I'm happy with how it turned out. It's a nice compliment to my longer travel trail bike. The only thing that I plan on updating is the rear suspension. I purchased a used shock before the 120mm link came out, so I'm currently running a 42.5mm shock. When I do my next shock tune-up I'll change it out to 45mm. I also found a 130mm fork with the intention to decrease travel to 120mm, but so far I like it at 130mm and will probably keep it there.
I'm using a Lyne Components Holy Rail to hold two water bottles. I can fit a small and large water bottle in the frame; there's just not quite enough clearance for two large water bottles. The Holy Rail has been great, I'd highly recommend it if you're looking to get a couple of bottles on the frame.
All in all, I like my positioning on the bike, it's comfortable for long stretches of climbing in the saddle. It's also pretty quick on the climbs, I've been setting numerous PR's on trails I've ridden for years. I'm not smashing my old times by any means, but I may be a minute or so faster on a 20-minute climb. Key for me is that I feel like I have more energy in reserve when I get to the top of the climb. It's also a different feeling on the down than my longer travel bike, where I usually just point and smash. Coming down on this bike it's more of a dance, trying to avoid the worst of the rocks/roots/etc., but it's light and easy to throw around. It can handle some rougher stuff, I just have to pay closer attention and take it a little slower. My times coming down on smoother, flowy trails are actually a little faster than my long travel bike. On chunky, more technical terrain my long travel bike no question is faster and more plush coming down. I'm comfortable taking it off jumps or drops of a couple of feet...anything more and I physically wince. Maybe the frame can handle it, but I'm not comfortable pushing it.
Overall, I'm really happy with the bike.
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After lurking this page and gathering parts for a while, here's my FM936 120mm, size S in matte RAL 6003 (Olive Green).
With Fox Factory float SC fork and rear shock, Shimano XT groupset and speedsafe wheels (ali-express) it ended up at 12kg.
Really happy with how nimble and reactive it is, however the front end does feel a little nervous (even on straights), despite the fact that the fork is a 44mm offset.
Any recommendations on changing stem length or bar width make the front end more stable? I'm reading conflicting things about stem length online, some sources say a shorter stem makes for quicker handling, some say it delivers more stable steering ???
Right now I'm running a temporary cockpit I had laying around with handlebar width 69cm and 100mm stem (-17degrees), reach wise this already feels pretty good.
thanks!
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After lurking this page and gathering parts for a while, here's my FM936 120mm, size S in matte RAL 6003 (Olive Green).
With Fox Factory float SC fork and rear shock, Shimano XT groupset and speedsafe wheels (ali-express) it ended up at 12kg.
Really happy with how nimble and reactive it is, however the front end does feel a little nervous (even on straights), despite the fact that the fork is a 44mm offset.
Any recommendations on changing stem length or bar width make the front end more stable? I'm reading conflicting things about stem length online, some sources say a shorter stem makes for quicker handling, some say it delivers more stable steering ???
Right now I'm running a temporary cockpit I had laying around with handlebar width 69cm and 100mm stem (-17degrees), reach wise this already feels pretty good.
thanks!
My thoughts (and everybody who rides a new type, long and slack, bike) would be to ditch the '90 cockpit and buy a new one...shorter and wide. A bar round 74+ cm and a stem between 3.5 and 6cm.
It will need a couple of rides to get used to if you're coming from the middle ages cockpit wise, but will be a lot better in every way.
Good luck.
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Has anyone been in contact with a Carbonda rep recently? It’s been roughly 30 days since my initial inquiry email with a follow up 3 weeks in and it has been silent on their end.
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Has anyone been in contact with a Carbonda rep recently? It’s been roughly 30 days since my initial inquiry email with a follow up 3 weeks in and it has been silent on their end.
They are usually very responsive. Try sending from another email address. My email from @Outlook.com email address went through fine. I talked with Wing.
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Got my FM936 near the end of June. Size Medium felt like my old trek M/L once I slammed the stem. I am 5' 11" I was comfortable on the medium, but I wouldn't mind trying a large. My build ended up around 27lbs. I put about 180 miles on it in July. The bike was fun to ride, and very capable in both technical and rough terrain. I felt like it was a little ridgid when landing jumps, but that was probably a tuning issue.
Everything was going great till the bottom bracket started to separate from the frame. I had 2 events that may have contributed to it. 1) A pedal strike, not an especially hard one or anything. 2.) An end over wreck off a drop. Not sure how it could have affected the BB though.
Carbonda has been somewhat responsive. They have not offer to replace it or a discount on a new frame. They have offered to analyze the Frame if I ship it back, but that may be cost prohibitive. Cheapest ups shipping of the lower section of the frame is $134. I have sent more detailed pictures and am currently waiting for Wing to respond.
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For me it looks like it was hit from the side. From the side where is no serial number. Pedal strokes are common. Today I got one myself :/
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Maybe so. If it was I don't remember it happening. That would be the chain ring side. There is a scuff in the middlish of the down tube.
The day it fell apart was a slow flowly ride with friends. I fell behind taking some pictures then put some power down to catch up and noticed something was wrong.
I added a photo of the full build for those who are interested
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Wish I´d seen your post before, I really recommend some other fork for two reasons, one SID is extremely harsh and 100% leaves this bike very prone to pedal hits. I know this may sound crazy but I´m running 130 and I´m much more happy with the bike. Still great on climbs but just less pedal hits
Wanted to say thank you to all who contributed to this thread as it was invaluable in the first FS build for me. Have only ridden FM936 few times but it feels night and day against my aluminum HT. It did end up half a kilo heavier than expected, but 11.2kg with pedals, power meter, bottle and garmin mounts for size XL seems competitive weight for 3.8k euro. Very glad to have found this forum. Hope everyone has a great summer on their bikes.
(http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2079.0;attach=16227) (http://chinertown.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=2079.0;attach=16229)
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Excellent Service!
I've been riding my L standard frame for two and a half year pretty hard and some weeks ago it feel different.
It felt like something was loose in the backend.
After inspection I found a crack in the chain stay on the right side at the smallest part near the attached chrome part (Chain ring protection)
Contacted Wing at Carbonda and got an reply in a day.
Carbonda sent a new triangle for free after some discussions and that was not what I've expected from them!
Makes me convinced that they are a serious company with great customer care in focus.
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Anyone having issues with the headset? I'm having an iritating sound coming of the front. Canecreak headset is in it, but having some play in the frame at the top, which should be normal considering this type of headsets.
Any ideas to fix it besides a lot of grease(which helps for a couple of xx km)?
Did my own fix/bodge...plumberstape 8)!
Some tape around the upper bearing made it a tight fit and gone js the sound!
Also helps with bb issues...
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Wish I´d seen your post before, I really recommend some other fork for two reasons, one SID is extremely harsh and 100% leaves this bike very prone to pedal hits. I know this may sound crazy but I´m running 130 and I´m much more happy with the bike. Still great on climbs but just less pedal hits
Thank you for feedback! I found SID to be great, however, my experience is limited only to Manitou Markhor and SID, so not one to make any judgement on performance. Pedaling wise it is fine, with 170 cranks and non rocky terrain I have not had issue so far. Could have went for 120, but decided to go with 100 and I am happy with it.
Unrelated note, reached out to Wing to confirm if I can drill a drainage hole in the bottom of bottom bracket (as someone already did already did earlier in the thread) and she confirmed that it is OK to drill a hole of up to 4mm:
you can drill a small 4mm hole in the middle of bottom bracket area
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Everything was going great till the bottom bracket started to separate from the frame. I had 2 events that may have contributed to it. 1) A pedal strike, not an especially hard one or anything. 2.) An end over wreck off a drop. Not sure how it could have affected the BB though.
Carbonda has been somewhat responsive. They have not offer to replace it or a discount on a new frame. They have offered to analyze the Frame if I ship it back, but that may be cost prohibitive. Cheapest ups shipping of the lower section of the frame is $134. I have sent more detailed pictures and am currently waiting for Wing to respond.
Carbon failure is typically caused by impact and a pedal strike could definitely transfer enough force into the BB threads to challenge the carbon. Unlikely, because most pedal strikes are absorbed by the body. I’ve had 20-30 pedal strikes and have broken the carbon body on pedals twice, but I’ve never considered the frame at risk.
Another consideration with threaded BB is cross threading or misaligned threads. Did you have the frame prepped with facing/chasing the threads to ensure alignment? I doubt this would cause such fast failure.
The crash referenced is likely the culprit. The bike does crazy things during a wreck. But, you would have heard something or felt it if you were still on the bike. I’ve punctured the top tube with the shifter high siding a berm, cracked the chain stay trying to ride through a rock garden, and cracked a rim when a loose rock kicked up off my buddies tire.
All of these events I knew right away there was carbon damage due to the sound.
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I wouldn’t ship anything back to Carbonda. Just order a new front triangle and chalk it up to Carbon being Carbon.
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Not sure if it would have helped but I use the Nukeproof down tube protector.
Here is the frame protection order I placed at Chain Reaction.
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Well after almost 2.5 years took a fall and damaged the linkage enough to warrant replacement. Might as well move to the 120mm linkage. Anyone have any luck getting just that piece lately? While I wait for a response from Carbonda, any idea what I am looking at for cost?
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Well after almost 2.5 years took a fall and damaged the linkage enough to warrant replacement. Might as well move to the 120mm linkage. Anyone have any luck getting just that piece lately? While I wait for a response from Carbonda, any idea what I am looking at for cost?
Cost for the 120mm linkage 95USD + shipping.
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I’m thinking of retiring my 936. I have 1500 miles on it. The drive side chainstay is failing (due to a lame attempt to ride through a cinder block garden) and the drivetrain is 11sp (same cassette for all 1500miles, one chain swap).
Here’s what I’m thinking so that I don’t trigger the wife alarm:
1. new frame that is T Type compatible
2. New T Type drivetrain
3. Swap wheels, suspension, brakes (sus just got the 200hr service 500 miles ago)
4. Ride like a stole it
Anyone else retire their 936? What did you do?
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I’m thinking of retiring my 936. I have 1500 miles on it. The drive side chainstay is failing (due to a lame attempt to ride through a cinder block garden) and the drivetrain is 11sp (same cassette for all 1500miles, one chain swap).
Here’s what I’m thinking so that I don’t trigger the wife alarm:
1. new frame that is T Type compatible
2. New T Type drivetrain
3. Swap wheels, suspension, brakes (sus just got the 200hr service 500 miles ago)
4. Ride like a stole it
Anyone else retire their 936? What did you do?
Nope...I did 15000km on it and still loving it.
I still don't think there are better frames out there for the same price...maybe the 909 which has uds(isn't it?) And two bottle option.
A new frame will definitely trigger any wife...replacing only the rear will probably not
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Any recommendations on changing stem length or bar width make the front end more stable? I'm reading conflicting things about stem length online, some sources say a shorter stem makes for quicker handling, some say it delivers more stable steering ???
I've been riding for like two years on 760 riser handlebar with 35mm 0 degree stem. But after one race this season with pretty gnarly climbs on soft terrain I decided to try a classic xc setup. So I put -20 60mm stem with 720 handlebar with no rise and did some trail rides. Honestly at first it was a bit weird but then I realize bike became much more stable, weight balance between wheels became more even and of course climbing became a lot easier. The downsides are pretty obvious: bunny hops are harder to do, low speed drops are a bit trickier but manageble, shifter/dropper switch likes to contact with top tube. And no, it's still hard for me to do an overbars lol. May be I should put a bigger brakes on the front and bulk my finger:)
Overall, I'm kinda happy with this setup. I'll definitely try it in a mountains but I still don't think it's a good idea but in the name of science you know. May be I'll put some -17 or so stem just for eliminate the possibility of shifter vs top tube battle.
Bonus video from local trails:
https://youtu.be/WTrOAumvGJ8?si=wo5MpN8FNpeVKA02 (https://youtu.be/WTrOAumvGJ8?si=wo5MpN8FNpeVKA02)
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Hi all
Placed an order for a 120mm 936, wondering if there are some guidances about decal dimensions for the down tube, in terms of length and height should be around 35*4 isn’t ?
Any advice appreciated
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35*4 isn’t ?
I would say 30-35*3.5 in size L. Tube profile is very narrow.
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Any chance to insert foam anti vibration for shift and brake cables ? Any brand to recommend?
Thx
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Any chance to insert foam anti vibration for shift and brake cables ? Any brand to recommend?
Thx
After almost 17k on it, I think I don't need it. And thats an OCD type a guy saying who hates rattles, creeks etc.
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https://capgo.eu/en/produkt/capgo-ol-brake-cable-noise-protection-id-5-5mm-od-11mm-2m
capgo is the only way, extremely lightweight, and does the job
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Hi guys
Where to find 8x30 bushings? They seems to be unavailable anywhere
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Hi guys
Where to find 8x30 bushings? They seems to be unavailable anywhere
They have several colors of the needle setup and DU setup, but not black in needle.
https://www.enduroforkseals.com/products/rear-suspension/shock-eyelet-bearing-kits/6mm-8mm-thru-bolts/NEEDLE-BEARING-30.html?ucacid=1237670655.423665
https://www.enduroforkseals.com/products/rear-suspension/shock-eye-bushing-kits/DU-BUSH-33.83-8.html?ucacid=1237670655.423665
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They have several colors of the needle setup and DU setup, but not black in needle.
nice ones too, but at the end i've ordered it from offsetbushings, a standard 8x30. thanks
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Hi all
I was going to buy this ammo, sidluxe trunnion 165
(https://i.postimg.cc/TpxMb3k1/IMG-0002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TpxMb3k1)
But I see the lockout lever is long, will I be able to move it from open to closed position and vice versa?
Thanks
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Hi all
I was going to buy this ammo, sidluxe trunnion 165
(https://i.postimg.cc/TpxMb3k1/IMG-0002.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TpxMb3k1)
But I see the lockout lever is long, will I be able to move it from open to closed position and vice versa?
Thanks
Yes, but you have to get off the bike to reach the lever.
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FYI, I just tried to install a 165x42.5mm Fox DPS Performance and was able to get seat stay bridge to seat tube contact. I know for sure that this shock has a 2.5mm spacer and when measuring it at compressed length, it's just shy of 42mm travel, so it'd be 42.5mm with bottom out bumper compressed. I bought the frame used, I'm assuming it's one of the early ones. I also had a spare upper shock bolt laying around in case the old one was bent and causing a bit more deflection. It only had about 2-3mm clearance to the seat tube when putting my weight on the saddle with zero air pressure, but a few good hits on the saddle and I got them to touch. Good thing I was planning on getting the longer travel linkage anyway! Make sure you all check clearance when over stroking and consider that bottom out bumpers compress a lot on a big hit, and everything just generally deflects a bit more than you can make them with static body weight.
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FYI, I just tried to install a 165x42.5mm Fox DPS Performance and was able to get seat stay bridge to seat tube contact. I know for sure that this shock has a 2.5mm spacer and when measuring it at compressed length, it's just shy of 42mm travel, so it'd be 42.5mm with bottom out bumper compressed. I bought the frame used, I'm assuming it's one of the early ones. I also had a spare upper shock bolt laying around in case the old one was bent and causing a bit more deflection. It only had about 2-3mm clearance to the seat tube when putting my weight on the saddle with zero air pressure, but a few good hits on the saddle and I got them to touch. Good thing I was planning on getting the longer travel linkage anyway! Make sure you all check clearance when over stroking and consider that bottom out bumpers compress a lot on a big hit, and everything just generally deflects a bit more than you can make them with static body weight.
exactly. that's right
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Yes, but you have to get off the bike to reach the lever.
You can reach it while riding, not practical but possible 8)
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You can reach it while riding, not practical but possible 8)
Yeah I can live with this, I also like the shock to be supportive “a la hard tail” ;D let's see, painting is expected for next week
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I am down to a decision between the newer 120mm version of the FM936 and a close sibling - the ICAN S3. Both will be running a 165x45 shock. I'm wondering if anyone has had a chance to ride the FM936 and the S3 back to back.
From what I've read the rear ends behave a little differently - it sounds like the S3 is both a better peddler and descender with it's slightly different kinematics.
I'd love to hear any subject feedback - otherwise it's a close race!
Thanks and this forum has a wealth of great info - thanks!
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Hey there, I haven't ridden either but I've stared at the charts long enough and understand them well enough to have an idea of how they might perform. See these posts here:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3343.msg29072.html#msg29072
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,3198.msg27489.html#msg27489
The FM936 has ~20% lower antisquat values with the same size chainring (compare the 32t vs 32t plots). I can't seem to link the images directly but @julian labeled his charts just fine. What that translates to roughly is more suspension resistance to your pedal stroke- in my opinion the S3 will be a much better climber and sprinter and the 936 will be mediocre in all scenarios. Not a bad ride but not a standout.
The leverage charts appear to be roughly the same and that makes sense. There's an effect due to the flex stay that isn't there with the horst link, it's hard/impossible to quantify without advanced tooling. I'm guessing the flex stay will cause some additional resistance as you get deeper into the travel which translates to a bit of a falling rate, but I think it'll be negligible in trail effect.
All in all, I think the S3 is an objectively better frame- it should pedal better, brake better (marginally) and have similar progression in the shock stroke. I am looking at one for myself, but the question is really "do I need a new frame" and not "which one to get". I'm 5'11" and I think the medium would be great...my current bike sits around 450mm and it's pretty darned comfortable and set up as a trail/enduro bike. A 465mm reach XC/Trail bike should be nice and long and still manageable in slow speed turns.
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What that translates to roughly is more suspension resistance to your pedal stroke- in my opinion the S3 will be a much better climber and sprinter and the 936 will be mediocre in all scenarios. Not a bad ride but not a standout.
Am I missing something? Isn't more suspension resistance what you want in a cross country frame? Especially when climbing and sprinting? And why the add the extra weight and complexity of a 4 bar suspension to XC? I'm very confused by this analysis and recommendation.
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Am I missing something? Isn't more suspension resistance what you want in a cross country frame? Especially when climbing and sprinting? And why the add the extra weight and complexity of a 4 bar suspension to XC? I'm very confused by this analysis and recommendation.
I wasn't thinking straight- the flex stay will likely ADD spring force, not take it away, making the frame even more progressive than it already is. It will naturally want to return to its static position. Again very difficult to tell without measuring the force at the axle.
In terms of performance, that doesn't really do anything at all. You can tune for that within the shock (smaller air can, more resistance bands, etc). What you want in an XC frame is likely 100% antisquat, or more, or a lockout and light weight. Most of the most competitive XC frames all have a pivot height near the carbonda's (epic, scott).
You add the extra pivot for stiffness, reliability, better braking performance, and switching the suspension from single pivot to virtual pivot. You can tune the horst link to do a lot of things, and the added anti-squat is pretty helpful in my opinion. If you are looking at it from a pure XC point of view, yeah I'd probably go with the carbonda and a lockout shock, then slap that on any time you head upwards. If you're looking for a trailbike to go have fun on, then I'd go with the S3 as the marginal improvement of the horst link with roughly the same weight and cost seems like a win to me.
None of this is to say the 936 is a bad frame- it's probably the best designed chinese full suspension bike I have ever seen. The NS got rave reviews and this is basically that bike. I just think the addition of the horst link and in particular its added anti-squat makes it a better buy.
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You add the extra pivot for stiffness, reliability, better braking performance, and switching the suspension from single pivot to virtual pivot. You can tune the horst link to do a lot of things, and the added anti-squat is pretty helpful in my opinion. If you are looking at it from a pure XC point of view, yeah I'd probably go with the carbonda and a lockout shock, then slap that on any time you head upwards. If you're looking for a trailbike to go have fun on, then I'd go with the S3 as the marginal improvement of the horst link with roughly the same weight and cost seems like a win to me.
None of this is to say the 936 is a bad frame- it's probably the best designed chinese full suspension bike I have ever seen. The NS got rave reviews and this is basically that bike. I just think the addition of the horst link and in particular its added anti-squat makes it a better buy.
This isn't an enduro bike, you are not going to experience pedal kickback at 100 or 120mm of rear travel. An additional pivot point isn't not going to add stiffness either, in fact it will do the opposite. Tune the horst link how? and why? Again, this isn't an enduro bike, it is an XC frame that has been built by a lot of people as a downcountry frame. As soon as you enter trail territory then, yes, go 4 bar and tune your shock all day long. The S3 is a weird frame in the modern bike realm, no major brand is using 4 bar for XC or light trail for many reasons, and if light trail is what you want then sure go for that.
I ride an over-forked 936 (120/100 Float DPS), and an over-forked 1001 (150/135 Float X), and have built and ridden a 130/120 (Float DPS) 1001. The 936 is so mush more stable while pedaling, and has no issue using the full travel when needed, and climbs like a rocket when compared to even the 130/120 1001.
Independent of your analysis, I have always been confused about locking out for climbing (unless its a hard pack fire road). Suspension will help keep the tire in contact with the surface so that you aren't just bouncing around...
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This isn't an enduro bike, you are not going to experience pedal kickback at 100 or 120mm of rear travel. An additional pivot point isn't not going to add stiffness either, in fact it will do the opposite. Tune the horst link how? and why? Again, this isn't an enduro bike, it is an XC frame that has been built by a lot of people as a downcountry frame. As soon as you enter trail territory then, yes, go 4 bar and tune your shock all day long. The S3 is a weird frame in the modern bike realm, no major brand is using 4 bar for XC or light trail for many reasons, and if light trail is what you want then sure go for that.
I ride an over-forked 936 (120/100 Float DPS), and an over-forked 1001 (150/135 Float X), and have built and ridden a 130/120 (Float DPS) 1001. The 936 is so mush more stable while pedaling, and has no issue using the full travel when needed, and climbs like a rocket when compared to even the 130/120 1001.
Independent of your analysis, I have always been confused about locking out for climbing (unless its a hard pack fire road). Suspension will help keep the tire in contact with the surface so that you aren't just bouncing around...
uh, ok. I'm not going to argue with you on the internet, especially if you are misinterpreting what I am saying. I haven't ridden either frame, but I've been riding MTBs for like 27 years and have been trying to understand suspension since the very first full suspension mountain bikes (remember semi active vs fully active?). Linkage blog and other resources have come out that help to plot how suspension behaves and helps to demystify awful marketing speak.
Mobile Chernobyl asked about the differences between the two frames, it's extremely unlikely that anybody has ridden both, but based on the suspension analyses performed already and a fundamental understanding of translating them to practice, there are differences that trend in favor of the S3 in terms of suspension performance alone. The FM936 has already been proven to be a great bike, and if you can't get the S3 in your size (it is discontinued) or can get the Carbonda for cheaper, then you aren't missing out on much- roughly 10-20% increase in anti-squat and slightly less anti-rise. The difference between the two suspension designs is very marginal but it's also real- the brake is decoupled from the swingarm and the fixed instant center of a swingarm bike is changed to a migrating instant center which creates a bit more anti-squat.
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I've been talking with Wing (who's been fantastic) but it appears they will only ship with UPS. If they ship by sea they will not guarantee no damage. UPS is the worst of the worst, and coming into Canada somehow they find a way to set that bar lower. Has a one used the sea shipping?
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Hi all so I’ve got my 936 in size M super light 120mm version. Happy with it, final weight should be around 10.2kg with bottle cage, protections and dropper post and pedals of course. SID ultimate for fork/shock, full sram x01 gear set, velosa wheel set
Pro:
Very good communication with carbonda / wing.
Frame quality and finiture are good even though I had to grind shock bushing a bit before insertion.
Painting looks strong (but has a small scratch on the rear brake mount).
Assembly was easy, BSA bb with crankset and derailleurs perfectly positioned and working fine.
Cable routing was also easy but I had to use a magnetic cable routing tool for the brake hose.
It’s not a clone!
Cons:
Delivery time took 2 full months.
Weight, frame at 2030 gr is not anymore super light as they claim it’s rather on the heavy side I think, if we compare with recent 120 mm competitors like spcycle, hongfu or tantan/seraph but I hope it will be strong and durable at least, Btw when this frame has been introduced weight declared was 1850grams (you can check on the internet archives) I don’t know what’s happened next.
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How is everyone doing with long term durability? I have a second hand vitus. It looked immaculate when I bought it, but who knows how much use it had? I since put on about 1000 km before finding a crack in the drive side chainstay.
Sanding back it seems that the carbon on the bottom of the chainsay in this area was poorly consolidated (about 2 cm long). I assume given it was a narrow section that the bladder did not apply good pressure during manufacture. I assume that this is an uncommon issue.
[/img]
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How is everyone doing with long term durability? I have a second hand vitus. It looked immaculate when I bought it, but who knows how much use it had? I since put on about 1000 km before finding a crack in the drive side chainstay.
Sanding back it seems that the carbon on the bottom of the chainsay in this area was poorly consolidated (about 2 cm long). I assume given it was a narrow section that the bladder did not apply good pressure during manufacture. I assume that this is an uncommon issue.
[/img]
It looks like a crack chainstay in the drive side is a genetic problem with fm936, carbonda replaces such chaynstay under warranty
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Guys do we know max torque value applicable to seat clamp? At 6nm my dropper keeps going down every time…carbon grease applied of course.
Thanks
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Guys do we know max torque value applicable to seat clamp? At 6nm my dropper keeps going down every time…carbon grease applied of course.
Thanks
Did you check that the diameter of your seat post is precisely 31.6mm ?
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Did you check that the diameter of your seat post is precisely 31.6mm ?
I haven’t, it’s a fox transfer SL therefore I can assume it’s ok! ;D ;D
Anyway , at 7nm seems to be fixed. Thanks man
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Hi guys
Anyone with a good fitting chain guard to suggest? Still haven’t found one that fits well
Thx
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Hi guys
Anyone with a good fitting chain guard to suggest? Still haven’t found one that fits well
Thx
If memory serves, I used an Absolute Black guard mounted to an ISCG05 adaptor that mounts behind the bb cup. I'm away from my bike for a bit, but I'll try to get some pics up over the weekend.
EDIT: I had this pic on my phone. It's not my 936, but I used pretty much the same setup on my Revel Ranger. It's an ISCG05 adapter plate mounted behind the BB cup, and a Funn brand guard (amazon) mounted to it. Hope this helps you a bit.
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If Funn brand guard (amazon) mounted to it. Hope this helps you a bit.
Very well protected frame! Thanks Dan
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I just picked up a Vitus Rapide FS, that I understand uses this frame (at least it sounded like it did according to the research I did before buying). I was very surprised/pleased that it showed up with a UDH, though! I wonder if Vitus had a mid model rear triangle refresh or something? Everything I found before purchasing pointed to being stuck with no UDH and I was concerned about sourcing replacements in the future due to CRC/Wiggle stopping shipments to the US. Anyone know anything?
Unfortunately I might have gotten too much bike for me, though. I’m 5’ 6” and 30.5” inseam without shoes. This puts my height at the top of Small, bottom of Medium, inseam out of Small and into Medium. There were no Smalls in stock so I grabbed a medium thinking I’d be fine (especially once shoes were added). I got the bike yesterday though and it seems large! It comes with a huge seat post that feels too tall even lowered all the way (dropper already on the way, so maybe a non issue) but the front end feels really long. I’m hoping it’s just due to the (unnecessarily?) long stem and narrow bars, but curious what others think about sizing. Would a stem and bars wake this up, or am I overbiked? I can’t really ride it for several months anyway (slushy nasty winter here) so can’t really figure this out on my own til far past the return window.
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The bottecchia Gardena also has udh and modern cable routing from the headset
https://www.bottecchia.com/products/gardena-29-squadra
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Sofiane Sehili, who's a star of the ultra endurance seems to ride on Vitus gravel and MTB(same as the 936)
As seen in the picture of his IG https://www.instagram.com/sofianeshl/
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Very well protected frame! Thanks Dan
I try to protect my investments. ;D. To circle back to my initial post about the Absolute Black brand guard https://absoluteblack.cc/taco-bashguard/ (https://absoluteblack.cc/taco-bashguard/), I used that one in particular because the bash thingy bolts on flush with the mount, so it was less likely to rub on the chain. It's a little expensive, but it's cheaper than replacing a frame.
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How does the bash guard protect the frame? Doesn’t the chainring do that already?
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How does the bash guard protect the frame? Doesn’t the chainring do that already?
The guard protects the chainring as well as the frame, as it protrudes just farther than the diameter of the ring, allowing you to slide over/across any obstacle that would normally strike the rings. While it won’t protect from an object kicked up by the front wheel from striking the frame, it’s intended as protection from smashing the cranks/bottom bracket area in more technical terrain - rock gardens, ledges, etc.
Also, relying on your chainring to act as a bash guard means that one day you will have a very long and frustrating walk home.
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So I've just bought the Vitus Rapide FS (CRX version with UDH) from Wiggle. Given Wiggle aren't likely to be around much longer should I stock up on frame parts? Or are they definitely the same as the ones supplied by Carbonda? Will I be fine to source them in the future from Carbonda?
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Starting my fourth season on the 936 and during the process of upgrading the bottom bracket I noticed some rust on the old cups. The bearings never got contaminated and still spin great.
As part of this BB swap I am going to drill a 1/7” drain hole. I don’t ride in the mud except for two races over the last two years. I rarely need to wash my bike, outside of the two races I maybe hose down the frame once per year. I’ll probably start to cover all the cable entry points with rags or tape when I wash going forward.
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...upgrading the bottom bracket...
Lucky you 8)
What BB is this ? And what will you put now ?
I gave up to my BB92/DUB combo and ordered a new triangle with BSA.
Unlike you, I ride half of the year in the mud, and the BB's do not last.
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That is a stock Sram Dub bottom bracket. The drive side bearings are a little crunchy.
I installed one of the Walgun ceramic BBs from Ali that is anodized. I doubt it will last as the seals seem to be less robust than the Sram.
The trails near Chicago are clay based soil, no fun when wet.
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I can confirm that two bottles fit quite well in a large FM936 frame! Also got a couple other 3D printed bits, the Manitou Mara remote lockout exits on the top (or bottom in the case of this mounting) but there's no room in the frame, so I printed a little sleeve for the aircan with a mount for the cable housing, so it now exits out the non-drive-side. I just swapped from an LCFS911 to this and carried most of the parts over, but still going to build a new wheelset and get new handlebar/stem. Once it's all done I'm thinking it'll come in right under 25 lbs. The trails will be wet until mid March or so, so it'll be a while until a ride report. So far the geo feels a lot like my Guerrilla Gravity, except it's fast in a straight line like my 911 was.
(https://i.imgur.com/cltRsdsh.jpg)
Sorry to bring up such an old post. I was curious if you had any more info on how you got the Mara to work with a remote lockout on your frame. I have a Vitus Rapide FS with a Mara and absolutely love it. I do wish I could run a remote to firm up the platform on the fly though. I tried to PM you, but I don't have any posts so it may not have went through.
Thanks,
Jake
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jgIC8LmFYuV43yIum-TtCDojybTVs7mq/view?usp=sharing
Here's the 3d STL file to 3d print. I only used it for a couple hundred miles so I can't comment on the durability. Not that I didn't like the lockout, just been testing out a few different shocks. The only thing additional needed is a square nut and bolt (either m4 or #10 screw). I also used a Shimano RS900 shift housing for the first foot, since it's a lot more flexible than traditional housing, and it's a tight bend to make sure it doesn't stick too far out towards the pedals.
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jgIC8LmFYuV43yIum-TtCDojybTVs7mq/view?usp=sharing
Here's the 3d STL file to 3d print. I only used it for a couple hundred miles so I can't comment on the durability. Not that I didn't like the lockout, just been testing out a few different shocks. The only thing additional needed is a square nut and bolt (either m4 or #10 screw). I also used a Shimano RS900 shift housing for the first foot, since it's a lot more flexible than traditional housing, and it's a tight bend to make sure it doesn't stick too far out towards the pedals.
Do you have an stl file for that bottle mount? I’d love to run a 2nd bottle on my L frame.
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Do you have an stl file for that bottle mount? I’d love to run a 2nd bottle on my L frame.
Thanks a bunch!
Jake
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Do you have an stl file for that bottle mount? I’d love to run a 2nd bottle on my L frame.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xMSEU1REAI_UqoaPSc10N6B0hA0j1nvj/view?usp=sharing
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xMSEU1REAI_UqoaPSc10N6B0hA0j1nvj/view?usp=sharing
Awesome!! Thanks for that!! What material dod you prin ti with? I was thinking PETG or ABS, but if you've had good luck with a particular material, I'm all for it!
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I used PETG and have had no issues. I've got about 2000 miles on the one I printed for my LCFS911.
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Is there anyone in this topic that has upgraded their rockerlink to 120mm, and wants to sell his old 100mm? I would like to reduce the travel in my frame to use with a 165x40 shock.
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Hello,
I bought a 120mm rocker to test it.
On static i can confirm that the bb is about 1cm higher and reach is 1cm longer. Thus the head angle is steeper, probably 67° versus 66° if use a 120mm fork on the 100mm chassis.
With a 42,5mm stroke shock, the 120mm rocker seems to have a bit more sag, in my case 13mm SAG versus 12mm, nothing really different and maybe in the margin error?
I don't have the 30mm bushing so comparative test done at the moment.
I bought all the replacement parts for 60$, that's a very good deal and they also send me some bearings ;) i had a UDH hanger so you can probably bought this frame a UDH rear triangle.
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The FM936 now has a UDH rear triangle? I know the ICAN S3 has UDH, but it doesn't use flex stays...
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First post, and thanks for the huge volume of info. Hours of happy reading!
So, I recently bought a Vitus Rapide FS bare frame from an ex-employee of Chain Reaction who had bought a job lot of frames from the administrators. Frame turned up, brand new, colour Cool Grey (almost white?), 2023 model and looks to be a stock frame held by Wiggle/Chain Reaction for warranty claims/exchange. Came with rear hanger (no UHD, which is 2024 stock), no headset, no seat post collar.
A few questions. I need a shock for it and have been offered a 165 x 42.5 Fox Float Factory which would be my first choice if it fits(?). Is there any danger of any interference with the rocker/seat tube? Has Carbonda changed anything to improve clearance from the early frames? I've read about the newer 120 rear end but I'm assuming I don't have that on my frame? I'm not a heavy or hard rider, more a geriatric bimbler, but would prefer to err on the side of caution, and if any doubt would go 165 x 40 (been offered a Sid Luxe)
Also, regarding spare hangers, can't see anything in the UK. Wing from Carbonda will send out at $5 each plus shipping. I'll order two for myself. Anyone else in the UK want me to order for them whilst I'm at it?
I asked Wing about a new UHD rear triangle, yes it's an option, $250 plus shipping, unpainted.
Will get some frame protection added, and will do this myself, I think. Any recommendations and advice - Invisiframe, Ridewrap, other?
Thanks all. My apologies if the above had been covered already but I'm only up to page 152 and I'm anxious to get building!
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regarding spare hangers, can't see anything in the UK
Specialized GH-296 hanger can be used. A bit longer but works fine.
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165x42.5mm will not fit without the 120mm linkage, which the Vitus never used. I was able to make rocker to seat tube contact without much effort.
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Thanks, I’ve ordered a SID Luxe 165x40
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165x42.5mm will not fit without the 120mm linkage, which the Vitus never used. I was able to make rocker to seat tube contact without much effort.
This is not true in all cases. Maybe frame size dependent? There are plenty of us in this thread running 42.5mm shocks with the original rocker and no frame contact.
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165x42.5mm will not fit without the 120mm linkage, which the Vitus never used. I was able to make rocker to seat tube contact without much effort.
On a size M this was not the case at all for me. I rode it rough and it never saw contact. Even with a Low suspension tune on a RS Deluxe.
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On a size M this was not the case at all for me. I rode it rough and it never saw contact. Even with a Low suspension tune on a RS Deluxe.
Same for me. Medium frame. 42.5 No contact.
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Interesting, my experience was on a size large
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xMSEU1REAI_UqoaPSc10N6B0hA0j1nvj/view?usp=sharing
This file doesn't have the dimensions in it. Can you provide the actual dimensions for the print?
Thanks!
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Anyone fitted a non-trunnion shock to their frame with a conversion kit?
With a standard double eyelet it would offer the advantage of having the lockout lever at the top of the shock. With trunnion shock, unless remote operation, with manual lockout, the lever is down low, and awkward to reach. Anyone?