Carbonda fm936 Thoughts

Started by Jan505, April 03, 2019, 11:25:02 AM

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brex

It is 3M 2080, the gloss blue metallic. I also did use 3M VViVid clear vinyl over the top in certain spots - downtube, outsides of rear triangle, back side of seat tube, etc.
I washed the frame with soap and water, then went over the areas the film was to be applied with rubbing alcohol. The problem areas have been on the top of the top tube where the headset cover sits, all that twisting motion has bubbled/bunched it up and it looks like garbage, so if you cover the top tube cut it short of the headset area. Also the inside of the rear triangle. Whether it is the constant dynamic forces or the constant abuse from dirt/rocks/mud/water, etc., it just isn't handling it well. It is peeling back in spots and just looks like crap up close. It's also not strong at all, a few little scrapes in the vinyl along the top tube, even from leaning it against a tree.
So, either cover it all with the thicker clear stuff that is made to handle abuse, or just paint it and then cover the paint. Replacing the colored vinyl will mean I have to peel off the clear stuff in the areas where it covers the color and then peel off the color. Not worth it unless I am ready to just do it all over again.

It looked really nice at first, but started showing wear pretty quick, and here we are ~4.5 months from completing the bike and it doesn't look good at all up close. Live and learn.
Everything covered in the VViVid still looks really nice. But that stuff is made for abuse.

Colt__Seavers

Yeah, also learned that wrapping a frame is pretty temporary.

Other topic.


Anybody knows around which fork offset the FM936 was designed? 44/51/xx?

I want to run a 44 SID on it and I don't want to ruin the geometry and the designers intention.
Learned that putting a 44mm fork on 51mm designed frames of certain bikes makes you feel going over the bar the whole time.

Zdrenka89

Fork offset is a sutble difference and these types are more than likely not designed around a single offset. Its more about preference.

I went with a 44mm offset SID fork (build still in progress, so i cant tell you how it rides) and i can see that falls in line with brand name manufacutures. Specialized and Cannondale also spec similar bikes with 44mm.

numberzero

Quote from: Colt__Seavers on July 28, 2020, 12:13:17 AM
Learned that putting a 44mm fork on 51mm designed frames of certain bikes makes you feel going over the bar the whole time.
It's probably true with a 71/70° head angle and short wheelbase bikes not with fm936 geometry.

As said by Zdrenka89 it depends of your preference.
Basically short offset gives more stable direction at high speed while long offset gives more manoeuvrable bikes at slow speed for tight corners.

With the fm936 i'll go with short offset to suit the DNA of the bike, if you mainly ride around trees at 5 or 10 mph it's not the ideal geometry anyway ;)

theirishrider

Yeah I'm going for the 44mm offset SID select too. Also, pretty cool feature with the SID is to change from 100 to 120 or visa versa it seems you only need a 40euro air shaft change.

I shipped with DHL, do you know if Carbonda will update me with the tracking number once they ship it? Thanks :)

carbonazza

Quote from: theirishrider on July 28, 2020, 06:02:06 AM
Yeah I'm going for the 44mm offset SID select too. Also, pretty cool feature with the SID is to change from 100 to 120 or visa versa it seems you only need a 40euro air shaft change.

I shipped with DHL, do you know if Carbonda will update me with the tracking number once they ship it? Thanks :)

Yes. They always provide the tracking number.
So you can frenetically follow it, instead of boring them every two days  ;)

A 120 fork could be reduced to 100 too?

Colt__Seavers

Thanks guys, much appreciated! Glad I'm good with 44!

theirishrider

Quote from: carbonazza on July 28, 2020, 03:03:57 PM
Quote from: theirishrider on July 28, 2020, 06:02:06 AM
Yeah I'm going for the 44mm offset SID select too. Also, pretty cool feature with the SID is to change from 100 to 120 or visa versa it seems you only need a 40euro air shaft change.
I shipped with DHL, do you know if Carbonda will update me with the tracking number once they ship it? Thanks :)
Yes. They always provide the tracking number.
So you can frenetically follow it, instead of boring them every two days  ;)

A 120 fork could be reduced to 100 too?
Haha, I didn't message them at all - didn't see the point. Just payment!

I think so, just an air shaft change. It's certainly a good option because the 100mm fork is often much cheaper so you could get a new shaft and still be cheaper than the 120...

Colt__Seavers

If you're looking for a bargain handelbar for you build, you might want to consider this one:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2964.msg22395.html#msg22395

carbonazza

Quote from: Colt__Seavers on July 28, 2020, 03:41:11 PM
If you're looking for a bargain handelbar for you build, you might want to consider this one:
http://chinertown.com/index.php/topic,2964.msg22395.html#msg22395

Good to know!
I'll go that route too, once I'm sure of the stem length I need.

Vipassana

#595
You guys are going to convince me to spend a lot of money here...

I'm looking to build a bike to compliment my Chiner carbon ultralight XC hardtail I built using this site in 2014.  This looks like an interesting option. I want something that climbs really well, but can handle the downhills better.  This lightweight hardtail is slowly killing me...  ;)

I worry about the very non-traditional geometry on this frame.  Its a stark departure from my current frame (CS-218) and even more radical than the new Specialized Epic-EVO.  Geometry comparison below (used NS data since the frames are very similar/identical)

Given I ride a LARGE CS-218, should I consider a MED. or LAR. FM936?  That reach on the FM936 really worries me...

Vipassana

If I do go through with this build, I would like to go ultralight (were it makes sense to do so from a cost/robustness standpoint).  Here is my initial thoughts on a built list.  Any feedback is appreciated. (attached) 

(I know the BB is wrong, that's a carry over from my current ride)


Colt__Seavers

Quote from: Vipassana on July 29, 2020, 11:41:53 AM
You guys are going to convince me to spend a lot of money here...

I'm looking to build a bike to compliment my Chiner carbon ultralight XC hardtail I built using this site in 2014.  This looks like an interesting option. I want something that climbs really well, but can handle the downhills better.  This lightweight hardtail is slowly killing me...  ;)

I worry about the very non-traditional geometry on this frame.  Its a stark departure from my current frame (CS-218) and even more radical than the new Specialized Epic-EVO.  Geometry comparison below (used NS data since the frames are very similar/identical)

Given I ride a LARGE CS-218, should I consider a MED. or LAR. FM936?  That reach on the FM936 really worries me...
I learned here from David Arthur that you should get your normal size. The frame is for short stems only. The reach seems long, but as the seat angle is very steep you won't have such a long reach in real life. Just check eff. top tube. Also Carbonda recommends a seatpost without setback on this frame.

Colt__Seavers

Quote from: Vipassana on July 29, 2020, 11:50:04 AM
If I do go through with this build, I would like to go ultralight (were it makes sense to do so from a cost/robustness standpoint).  Here is my initial thoughts on a built list.  Any feedback is appreciated. (attached) 

(I know the BB is wrong, that's a carry over from my current ride)

Wow, that looks pretty decent! And you'll end up very light. Would love to see the cost breakdown besides the weight.
Don't see much possibility to shave off weight when you want to go 120mm travel. Maybe lighter brakes. Why not get SRAM XX?

Vipassana

Quote from: Colt__Seavers on July 29, 2020, 11:55:41 AM

Wow, that looks pretty decent! And you'll end up very light. Would love to see the cost breakdown besides the weight.
Don't see much possibility to shave off weight when you want to go 120mm travel. Maybe lighter brakes. Why not get SRAM XX?

Cost breakdown... I hid that column from you guys, from myself, from my wife.  But right now it's going to be in the range of $6k.  Which I recognize is insane, but I spent $4100 on my current bike in 2014 and I'm still riding it today.  1900 miles this year alone.  So I tell myself it is money well spent if I use it as much.  My alternative consideration is an Epic EVO which would be basically $10k+ with similar spec...  :o

For the brakes, I went with what I know which is the XT.  The older set I have has been flawless.  But I heard the newer models have issues?  I spent years with AVIDs and had so many issues that it soured me.

Are the new SRAM offerings improved?