Velobuild VB-R-168 Frame

[DodgiePapa]

Only done mechanical 2x. The derailleur cables have exit ports: cover for front, plug for rear. I've only used the integrated handlebar, no FSA ACR headset.

Stupid question - but where were these covers packed?
I somehow did not get any and cannot find them even with all the packaging still there. (Used some flexible glue mass type of thing to cover them for now)

Short Update from my side:

• Still rather happy with the frame/ handlebar.
  
• I managed to drop my chain after forgetting to double-check the god damn SRAM FD. So some scratches around the BB and since then I got some BB creaking... working on a solution with a bigger spacer and less pre-load etc. just DUB PF BB things I guess.
• In addition I started using the two water bottle cages I bought with the frame - they are pretty light, but the seat tube one broke on the first speed bump I gently drove over even at lower speed ~20kmh, so this was 20 Bucks out the window and I am back to the trusty nylon ones.
  

Happy to see that VB is also writing here now.

[zaphodbeeblebrox]

The velobuild cage I had on the seat tube (of an 099) also broke during the first ride I actually stuck a bottle in it lol. The little tab at the bottom just snapped. I guess the vertical mounting puts way more stress on the retainer. The downtube mounted one is still working well for me.

[Kirkspants]

If you are asking about the entire FSA ACR set-up (bearings, compression plug, lock ring, top cover) then that would be difficult, and I would say damn near impossible to pull off if you want the actual FSA ACR front hydraulic hose route through the top of the steerer. That being said, on my TanTan TT-x21, I've used everything except the top cover, and routed the hoses as usual through the fully integrated handlebars and through the head tube without too many issues. Everything works fine with the stock Chinese top cover, which allowed me to keep the stock spacers and handlebars that came with the frame.

Hope this helps.

Totally helps! :-) My half baked plan so far is to just route both brake hoses through the headset since I’ll be running electric. But I’ll see how I like the VB parts before I get crazy!

[braincore]

Stupid question - but where were these covers packed?
I somehow did not get any and cannot find them even with all the packaging still there. (Used some flexible glue mass type of thing to cover them for now)

I believe they both came attached to the frame already so it's entirely possible they forgot for you.

[memebike]

Anyone have any ideas on bottom brackets that would suit this frame but are compatible with SRAM Rival 12 Cranks?

This is the only one i've found but wanting to know what others have used.

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-dub-pf86-road-wide-bottom-bracket-cup/137670786/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=11316256&country=au&gclid=CjwKCAjw46CVBhB1EiwAgy6M4sR3bTW2h1MubRB7CYriTzXteEBhn2rsweYmOk_0asO28CU95xth9RoCmaEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&fbclid=IwAR1vYjEYiOyjW7zVDm-w22b31AogAdI_PlAiW1AmZ9RykXH9TSDNERr8EXI

[FHS]

Totally helps! :-) My half baked plan so far is to just route both brake hoses through the headset since I’ll be running electric. But I’ll see how I like the VB parts before I get crazy!

You should be all set then! I managed to run both hydraulic hoses and both shifter cables through that space. Took some time to line everything up properly, but it works. Just a note, the FSA ACR lock ring has a couple of notches in it that marry to a couple of pegs on the underside of the FSA ACR top cover. Not sure why it's set up that way, but the stock Chinese top cover I have seems to work fine without the pegs.

[slosada]

Chris responded and said that if I agree to cancel the dispute he will send me the correct part and refund for the missing bottle cages, hopefully he follows through. Good thing I have another bike to ride in the mean time... I will probably end up making this a dedicated winter trainer bike anyways.

Thanks for this hint,
My velobuild rear wheel blew after 350Kms of asphalt, on a 10% downhill. There are cracks starting from the nipple

VB Customer support is denying any warranty, insisting in a supposed accident when the I sent pictures of the bike from both sides.

I don't trust the front wheel either, so I guess I will go down this Paypal dispute (or Credit card otherwise) tomorrow at the latest.

[DodgiePapa]

Anyone have any ideas on bottom brackets that would suit this frame but are compatible with SRAM Rival 12 Cranks?

This is the only one i've found but wanting to know what others have used.

https://www.tradeinn.com/bikeinn/en/sram-dub-pf86-road-wide-bottom-bracket-cup/137670786/p?utm_source=google_products&utm_medium=merchant&id_producte=11316256&country=au&gclid=CjwKCAjw46CVBhB1EiwAgy6M4sR3bTW2h1MubRB7CYriTzXteEBhn2rsweYmOk_0asO28CU95xth9RoCmaEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&fbclid=IwAR1vYjEYiOyjW7zVDm-w22b31AogAdI_PlAiW1AmZ9RykXH9TSDNERr8EXI

Do you have a wide crank? If yes this is the BB for you otherwise look for this one in non "WIDE". This is the right one - however be advised that DUB with the frame is not recommended by VB. and in general not the best combination PF and DUB, but this used by e.g. Movistar with Canyon and SRAM.

Also I did not have any issues with creaking in this combination until I had a minor chain drop (pretty compact rival power crank combined with force FD and forgot to double check limit screws)... no I got a new install on my plate. I printed some bigger spacers to try have less pre-load and minimize variables.

Thanks for this hint,
My velobuild rear wheel blew after 350Kms of asphalt, on a 10% downhill. There are cracks starting from the nipple

VB Customer support is denying any warranty, insisting in a supposed accident when the I sent pictures of the bike from both sides.

I don't trust the front wheel either, so I guess I will go down this Paypal dispute (or Credit card otherwise) tomorrow at the latest.

Sucks to hear that - this is the reason I do not trust anyone but the known quantities regarding wheels... that's just too dangerous. I got myself some Farsports wheels for my 168 build. I am more relaxed with frames, because usually carbon frame failures are a more soft process like delaminating and not blowing up in my face. I was thinking about getting some very cheap carbon wheels for my gravel beater, but stories like this will see me dropping serious money on a full carbon proper gravel setup.

[memebike]

Do you have a wide crank? If yes this is the BB for you otherwise look for this one in non "WIDE". This is the right one - however be advised that DUB with the frame is not recommended by VB. and in general not the best combination PF and DUB, but this used by e.g. Movistar with Canyon and SRAM.

Also I did not have any issues with creaking in this combination until I had a minor chain drop (pretty compact rival power crank combined with force FD and forgot to double check limit screws)... no I got a new install on my plate. I printed some bigger spacers to try have less pre-load and minimize variables.

Sucks to hear that - this is the reason I do not trust anyone but the known quantities regarding wheels... that's just too dangerous. I got myself some Farsports wheels for my 168 build. I am more relaxed with frames, because usually carbon frame failures are a more soft process like delaminating and not blowing up in my face. I was thinking about getting some very cheap carbon wheels for my gravel beater, but stories like this will see me dropping serious money on a full carbon proper gravel setup.

Thanks for the feedback, running the non wide version. trying to decide whether I go with that BB or a ceramic one or any other that you recommend for the frame?

[cramy]

I am currently interested in the TT-X33 model, communication with TanTan Cycling support is good and fast. Questions are answered in detail.

Maybe you can still cancel the order?

Did you purchqse the x33?

[planet_sammy]

Did you purchqse the x33?

not yet, only after my summer vacation, otherwise the frameset will come when I'm not there…

[Seven1816]

I ordered my R-168 in early May, received it mid May, built it up early June. 95% of the parts are from my old parts bin.
Shimano RS 685 Mechanical shifters and calipers
Shimano R7000 drivetrain
Ali special carbon seat
Ali special BB86 screw together with bearings changed out for NTN6805
Fulcrum Racing 400DB
Innova Facemiles
Build was relatively straight forward, used one foam tubing to house the 2 cables and hydro hose in the frame, easier than using seperate or cable ties, no rattle. I did have a small issue on the headset stem not compressing enough. I ghetto'd a 30mm ID 2mm washer and cut 80* out of it, sits on top of angled compression washer supplied and does not move and all 4 cables and hoses fit nicely through.
Overall not bad, no defects noted. Only one small gripe is the amount of toe overlap on this 52cm frame.

[memebike]

So a few updates, managed to score a good deal on a Rival Etap grouppo without a cassette. Basically there are no cassettes in stock in Australia until Sept, all the local bike shops have inventory though for complete groupset purchases . I didnt want to wait that long to test it out seeing as I'm using 105+Juintechs and this is Rival  Etaps with Hydro. I also needed the XDR free hub to arrive so in the mean time, I purchased the new 12sp ultegra cassette and installed the sram shifters and deraileurs with the 12sp flat top chain in a set up I call SRAMANO.

Have taken it out for a few rides now, no issues. handled 1100w+ efforts but the biggest thing was the full hydro brakes. Juin Techs are great but man full hydro brakes are awesome.

[Irideslowly]

Might be my favorite bike on these forums.

[patliean1]

I'm tempted to build a 168 (or 218) to test the stability claims versus the 177.

Too many aero bikes in the collection at the moment...