Spcycle New Mold G056 Carbon Gravel Frame

[Daviddavieboy]

I ordered another spare hanger last week (3 total for me), and thankfully it shipped (prior to AliEx US price increases)! I'm surprised your bike is 20lbs. Mine clocks in anywhere between 7.6kg and 8.3kg and it only depends on which tires I'm using. If I were running full mechanical, I think I could get it sub 7.5kg.

 To be fair this is with me weighing myself with and without the bike on a bathroom scale with the bike fully kitted out. One of my steel bikes is around 18lbs with a single water bottle and saddle bag LOL

[jonathanf2]

Did you actually snap the hangers? I found a listing which also lists all the frames that use the same hanger:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805681487924.html

I received my spare G056/RF25 hanger and it's a perfect match from this vendor. Even though this frame isn't UDH, at least the hanger seems common and used with a few modern frames. I was able to find it sold locally, but at a higher cost. The bad news for US customers is that the hanger on AliEx doubled in price this week. I was able to get my order in before the tariff pricing kicked in.

[Daviddavieboy]

I received my spare G056/RF25 hanger and it's a perfect match from this vendor. Even though this frame isn't UDH, at least the hanger seems common and used with a few modern frames. I was able to find it sold locally, but at a higher cost. The bad news for US customers is that the hanger on AliEx doubled in price this week. I was able to get my order in before the tariff pricing kicked in.

 Did you get the regular or extended version ? I bought mine directly from SP Cycle for a couple dollars more but it was the original. The extended should allow a bigger cassette.

[hsaus]

Did you get the regular or extended version ? I bought mine directly from SP Cycle for a couple dollars more but it was the original. The extended should allow a bigger cassette.

The longer one is not intended for larger cassettes, but is instead for Shimano direct mount (https://wheelsmfg.com/blog/standard-mount-vs-direct-mount-derailleur-hangers.html), so that shadow-style derailleurs can be mounted without the B-link. I ordered one for my G056, but I haven't installed it yet.

[kubackje]

Anyone tried to fit 50mm tires on this frame ?

[Ultramic]

Anyone tried to fit 50mm tires on this frame ?

I have 47mm slicks (continental contact urban) on 20mm internal rim and the smallest gap across the entire bike is on the NDS chain stay and measures 6.2mm. I can probably run 50mm gravel tyres with knobs but it will also be dependant your internal rim width and how much clearance you are comfortable with.

[jonathanf2]

Did you get the regular or extended version ? I bought mine directly from SP Cycle for a couple dollars more but it was the original. The extended should allow a bigger cassette.

I just bought the regular one and threw that in the saddle bag for emergencies. I have 3 RD hangers now and a hanger alignment tool at home, so I think I'll be good. 

The longer one is not intended for larger cassettes, but is instead for Shimano direct mount (https://wheelsmfg.com/blog/standard-mount-vs-direct-mount-derailleur-hangers.html), so that shadow-style derailleurs can be mounted without the B-link. I ordered one for my G056, but I haven't installed it yet.

I was thinking of getting the direct mount version, but since I'm using LTwoo eGR it won't work since the mounting hardware is different.

[peterpanpeter]

I hope someone can help me with this frame build. I recently purchased the version sold by "Surprise store" on AliExpress. My issue is installing the headset where there is a gap between the lower bearing and the fork and also a bigger gap between the frame and the headcover for the top bearing - this is using the supplied headset. With the top bearing in particular, this sits flush with the frame and when you put the the compression ring on, it sits too high the the headset cover leaving quite a big gap. Any advice is appreciated.

How did you resolve the gap between the lower bearing and the crown race? I seem to have the same problem.

[peterpanpeter]

Also, one of the holes for the front brake on my fork is super tight and I can't screw it in without A LOT of force. I'm scared I'm gonna destroy the threads. Can you even chase these threads?

[jeffrey]

Also, one of the holes for the front brake on my fork is super tight and I can't screw it in without A LOT of force. I'm scared I'm gonna destroy the threads. Can you even chase these threads?

I'm facing this problem as well, top screw went in okay, but bottom screw at half length gets so tight I'm afraid of damaging everything

[jonathanf2]

How did you resolve the gap between the lower bearing and the crown race? I seem to have the same problem.

I used another fork on my frameset so I can't confirm. Usually the newer crown races have a small gap to help open up for clearance. If not, maybe the fork doesn't need the crown race?

Also, one of the holes for the front brake on my fork is super tight and I can't screw it in without A LOT of force. I'm scared I'm gonna destroy the threads. Can you even chase these threads?

Did you try adding a dab of grease into the hole and gently turn the screw? Some screws have thread locker on them, so there tends to be a bit of resistance when screwing them in. As long as it's in flush, that's usually what I do with minimal issue. Caliper screws just need to be firmly screwed in, no need to over torque them.

[Ultramic]

How did you resolve the gap between the lower bearing and the crown race? I seem to have the same problem.

Nothing, the seller confirmed it was normal. You will find that the lower bearing is recessed in the frame so once it's all fitted it looks and operates fine. The gap is still a bit bigger than my other bikes but it's acceptable.

With the caliper mounting bolts, do not force the bolt in even if you are sure it's threaded correctly. The bolt will break and you will have to pay for a replacement fork. The method to do this is  (and this applies to any screw/bolt on the frame and especially the T47 BB):

- With the caliper removed, apply a copious amount of grease to the bolt
- Line up the bolt so it's perpendicular and hand tighten to make sure you are on the right thread.
- Use an allen key to keep tightening until there is a some resistance (I would estimate about 3-4nm of torque).
- Back out the bolt, clean the bolt threads (important) and apply grease again and using an Allen key you should be able to turn the screw that little bit extra (maybe half to a full turn).
- Back out and repeat until the screw is all the way in (note you don't need to get the screw to turn all the way in as you have the caliper mount adaptor).

Essentially you are using the screw to chase/clean the threads. Be extremely careful when you do the BB, don't be surprised if you find yourself sitting there for a few minutes trying to find the right position to start engaging the thread (it helps if you have one of those BB tools and use that as leverage to find and start the thread by hand).

Hope this helps.

[Ultramic]

I should also add that they don't bother to mask up the BB and caliper contact points and just spray over the areas. You should be fine leaving as is but you may want to "face" these contact areas by sanding back the paint to expose the carbon. If you run into any issues aligning your calipers to remove disc rub or develop creaking in the BB area, then this maybe the cause.

[peterpanpeter]

I used another fork on my frameset so I can't confirm. Usually the newer crown races have a small gap to help open up for clearance. If not, maybe the fork doesn't need the crown race?

Did you try adding a dab of grease into the hole and gently turn the screw? Some screws have thread locker on them, so there tends to be a bit of resistance when screwing them in. As long as it's in flush, that's usually what I do with minimal issue. Caliper screws just need to be firmly screwed in, no need to over torque them.

Nothing, the seller confirmed it was normal. You will find that the lower bearing is recessed in the frame so once it's all fitted it looks and operates fine. The gap is still a bit bigger than my other bikes but it's acceptable.

With the caliper mounting bolts, do not force the bolt in even if you are sure it's threaded correctly. The bolt will break and you will have to pay for a replacement fork. The method to do this is  (and this applies to any screw/bolt on the frame and especially the T47 BB):

- With the caliper removed, apply a copious amount of grease to the bolt
- Line up the bolt so it's perpendicular and hand tighten to make sure you are on the right thread.
- Use an allen key to keep tightening until there is a some resistance (I would estimate about 3-4nm of torque).
- Back out the bolt, clean the bolt threads (important) and apply grease again and using an Allen key you should be able to turn the screw that little bit extra (maybe half to a full turn).
- Back out and repeat until the screw is all the way in (note you don't need to get the screw to turn all the way in as you have the caliper mount adaptor).

Essentially you are using the screw to chase/clean the threads. Be extremely careful when you do the BB, don't be surprised if you find yourself sitting there for a few minutes trying to find the right position to start engaging the thread (it helps if you have one of those BB tools and use that as leverage to find and start the thread by hand).

Hope this helps.

I should also add that they don't bother to mask up the BB and caliper contact points and just spray over the areas. You should be fine leaving as is but you may want to "face" these contact areas by sanding back the paint to expose the carbon. If you run into any issues aligning your calipers to remove disc rub or develop creaking in the BB area, then this maybe the cause.

Thank you both. I will try this. I also noticed there was a lot of paint overspray but I don't really have any way to face them so I'm just gonna roll the dice. Luckily the threads on my BB are fine and I can screw it in with only my hands.

[peterpanpeter]

It took me 3 hours but I finally got the bolt in enough to hold the adapter. I now have a different problem:

I was using my cable routing kit through the chain-stay to get to the rear derailleur and it got stuck. It's the drive side chain-stay. What could it have gotten stuck on and how do I resolve it? I don't have those small cameras to see inside the frame. I'm scared that it's loose carbon sheets (?) and that the chain-stay is defect and maybe not safe to ride.

I messaged the seller and asked for their opinion but I don't have high hopes of them offering a solution.