There's so many variable to FD tuning. I adjust my ER9 cage in a certain way. Ignore all the YT'ers, they don't even know what they're doing!
First I'd make sure your FD cage is as close as possible to the chainring teeth. At the least, a 2mm gap (FD cage to teeth) is as wide as you should go. Second I would tune the FD first for the small chainring and small cog. Get that chain (while on the small cassette cog) as close to the to the cage as possible to insure you don't have rubbing in the big cassette cog. Once that's taken care of, shift to the big ring and adjust the big chainring/small cog in the same way. Get the cage as close as possible to the chain.
1-2 number differences can be huge with the fine tuning. On my out-of-spec 52-36/10-33t setup, I notice 82 vs 84 makes all the difference with good or bad FD shifting under load. In fact since I use gear protection, I don't mind chain rubbing in my small/small because I don't use my 2 smallest cogs on the small chainring (or my big/big). My setup is optimized to work well within the usuable gear range, completely ignoring the cross-chaining gears.
Anyways good luck!
Hi,
by the videos on YouTube I meant the ones from the official ltwoo channel

It's the same procedure you recommended to me, right?
The problem is that if I follow that procedure the chain unfortunately does not go from 30 to 46.
I wouldn't want the derailleur to be too high compared to the large chainring, and unfortunately I don't have any more space to lower it.
The only way I've found so far to get decent shifting is to move the derailleur's "tail" a little outward, but shifting isn't great under heavy load.
I have the same crankset on my gravel bike with Sensah Empire gears and I haven't had these adjustment problems.
At this point I don't know if the problem is the crankset, the derailleur being too high or it's me
I don't think it's a derailleur problem, but I also tried to write to ltwoo support, let's see if they answer me