LTWOO eGR

[rockerplates.de]

Yeah, that kind of lockout depends on circuitry in the pack. In this case, they are providing the pack that you use (the tube with circuit board) and you add the simple 'dumb' battery inside. They don't have direct access to information about the battery itself (they could infer it perhaps)

Well, we have adressed that problem to ltwoo....they leave it to the customer to buy the batteries and they are not able to control the quality of the battery at the end..

Selling a product with batteries opens a huge can of worms..it is hard to ship parcels with batteries inside, well it is not hard, but its more expensive...you would also have to certify this battery pack...
The pcb they are using does not have any (working) protection, we have had a burned tray without any explanable reason...
it is very easy to program a warning if the battery is low quality and or begins to die...when the load is applied and the voltage drops below a certain level, you could trigger a warning...
But they are chinese...so a product quality of 90 % is good enough for them....

[highwind]

@gloscherrybomb & @trcycling

Thanks for you answers.
I am currently not in need of a new groupset, just checking options as my next upgrade will prolly be electronic with SRAMs eTap-shiftlogic.

Hopefully Sensah will be offering something the like with their new electronic groupset which I heard is in the making... they have been more-SRAM-than-Shimano-like in the past anyways. 
If they just "copy" the APEX/Rival AXS but with hydraulic oil brakes (instead of DOT) and a derailleur battery pack which uses some standard batteries (like 18650) instead of the proprietary stuff, I think that would be an absolute winner of a groupset.

[AndrewSpearns]

I completed a 115km back country gravel event in Corner Brook, Newfoundland last week which was on terrain everywhere from tame to knarly, with some rain, mud, puddles, water crossings...

My RD didn't suffer from water ingress, but at the end of the event my watts were not making sense. When I got home, found that the two jockey wheels were completely locked up. They use 626Z bearings, which have metal shields and are not sealed like their 626RS counterparts.

I've sourced some bearings at the local Wajax but also have a request sent to LTWOO to warranty the jockey wheels. I've got maybe 1000km on this group since May.

[trcycling]

I completed a 115km back country gravel event in Corner Brook, Newfoundland last week which was on terrain everywhere from tame to knarly, with some rain, mud, puddles, water crossings...

My RD didn't suffer from water ingress, but at the end of the event my watts were not making sense. When I got home, found that the two jockey wheels were completely locked up. They use 626Z bearings, which have metal shields and are not sealed like their 626RS counterparts.

I've sourced some bearings at the local Wajax but also have a request sent to LTWOO to warranty the jockey wheels. I've got maybe 1000km on this group since May.

By chance, did you take pictures?

[AndrewSpearns]

By chance, did you take pictures?

I haven't, but LTWOO has requested a photo and video of the failed bearings. I'll share here later when I have a moment to capture them.

[rockerplates.de]

I haven't, but LTWOO has requested a photo and video of the failed bearings. I'll share here later when I have a moment to capture them.

Keep us posted...they usually keep asking, and asking and asking for many other things..but wont help...

[amacal1]

I'd like to hear feedback, as well. I rode through some gnarly puddles and nasty muddy track exactly once (on a ride I crashed). When I did a post mortem examination some weeks later I discovered my lowest jockey wheel was seized. I squeezed some grease in around the bearing shield and restored some life. I ordered a random jockey wheel from Ali to try to replace it, but I'd be interested in knowing what the correct replacement jockey wheel is or can be sourced from. I emailed Ltwoo but got no response.

[jonathanf2]

Curious what size jockey wheels are used on the EGR? Goldix have a few steel bearing jockey wheels and LTwoo seems to use off-the-shelf parts when possible. Would any of these match?

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html

[courdacier]

You can get the rear mech on its own no issues, electronic mech is about 250USD. They are the updated design as well.  So far, my experience getting parts has been excellent and I’m glad they’ve decided to make all the cables and everything available.

got my sram apex axs rd for $200, don't see the point anymore tbh. now that've eliminated the need for shifters and all you have to get is blips for $100. maybe the flexibility to go between 10-12 sp drivetrains is still a selling point. I've given up on these myself.

[AndrewSpearns]

Curious what size jockey wheels are used on the EGR? Goldix have a few steel bearing jockey wheels and LTwoo seems to use off-the-shelf parts when possible. Would any of these match?

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803396383834.html

These look exactly like the ones on the eGR rear mech, but with black bearing covers. Note the 626Z metallic shield bearings.

[AndrewSpearns]

By chance, did you take pictures?

See the photo below. Will try to get the video uploaded this weekend. The 626RS cost me $3 each at a local bearing ship.

[trcycling]

See the photo below. Will try to get the video uploaded this weekend. The 626RS cost me $3 each at a local bearing ship.

Thanks for posting the picture. Made me go look up bearing code differences :-)

Seems like this might be worth doing as preventive maintenance. How easily do the bearings slip in/out? Is it a fingers job or would I need the right drifts?

[jonathanf2]

got my sram apex axs rd for $200, don't see the point anymore tbh. now that've eliminated the need for shifters and all you have to get is blips for $100. maybe the flexibility to go between 10-12 sp drivetrains is still a selling point. I've given up on these myself.

So what do you use for hoods or do you use flat bars? I think 10-12 speed flexibility is still a big selling point for LTwoo and Wheeltop. SRAM blips with non-replaceable batteries just sounds like some first world nonsense. I might as well toss my water bottles after single use as well! 

[AndrewSpearns]

Thanks for posting the picture. Made me go look up bearing code differences :-)

Seems like this might be worth doing as preventive maintenance. How easily do the bearings slip in/out? Is it a fingers job or would I need the right drifts?

I used two sockets and a bench vise and they popped out pretty smoothly. One the same size as the bearing and the other large enough to support the jockey wheel and allow the hearing to pass into. You could make a drift with a bolt and washer and use a socket on the other side for the bearing to pull into.

Take care when pressing the new ones in to make sure they are even. My first attempt the bearing was a bit skewed so I had to remove and redo.

[courdacier]

So what do you use for hoods or do you use flat bars? I think 10-12 speed flexibility is still a big selling point for LTwoo and Wheeltop. SRAM blips with non-replaceable batteries just sounds like some first world nonsense. I might as well toss my water bottles after single use as well! 

I've used it both w/a drop-bar canti cross-check and a flat bar mtb so far.
I think ppl have swapped coin batteries out in those blips, but it looks a bit surgical. like on a level of changing an iphone screen - not hard per se but fussy and time-consuming.