Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame

[jonathanf2]

Good bike I think.

I'm digging the minimalist aesthetic! 

[Bonus79]

Could someone recommend me some good integrated handlebars for this frame? I got a Kocevlo Roval Rapide clone, but lost all confidence in them as they were very flexible and made funny carbon noises just being touched.

Had my eyes on LightCarbon HBR17, but they don't have my size in stock.

I assembled this one.
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006286213042.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.2e223696Yz0Mx9&gatewayAdapt=glo2ita
So far it's working well and seems pretty sturdy (it's not the lightest).

[Bonus79]

I've been using this handlebar https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1005006309729622.html for I think 1000km, I haven't had any problems whatsoever, in fact the cable routing has been super useful, the only thing is to be careful with the spacers which require modification to make them more manageable.

What exactly do you mean?

[Pistonbroke]

I'm digging the minimalist aesthetic! 

Thanks!
I find if I keep all my bikes black the wife doesn't notice when I change one :-)

[alfiomotrambo]

What exactly do you mean?

As you can see in the image, the spacers supplied with the handlebars have the special feature of having space for the cables to pass through. If you go to a bike fit or if you need to remove or add a spacer, you must either remove the cables and the handlebar to completely remove the spacers, or if you make a small cut, you can remove the spacers without removing the entire handlebar. I hope I explained myself clearly.

[Bonus79]

Thanks!
I find if I keep all my bikes black the wife doesn't notice when I change one :-)

In fact, I got it all wrong....I went from black to white! 

[Bonus79]

As you can see in the image, the spacers supplied with the handlebars have the special feature of having space for the cables to pass through. If you go to a bike fit or if you need to remove or add a spacer, you must either remove the cables and the handlebar to completely remove the spacers, or if you make a small cut, you can remove the spacers without removing the entire handlebar. I hope I explained myself clearly.

I thought the spacers were in two pieces....

[carbonMad]

I thought the spacers were in two pieces....

They are, they're just designed poorly 

[Bonus79]

They are, they're just designed poorly 

Oh, right...now I get it!
In fact, given how they are made, you can't remove the front piece!

[alfiomotrambo]

Oh, right...now I get it!
In fact, given how they are made, you can't remove the front piece!

Yes exactly!

[Tilmanstoa5ty]

Yesterday i had the chance to put my bike next to an original Tarmac SL8.

Here are the specs of both bikes:

R088
Elite Wheels ENT 2.0 50mm
Shimano 105 Di2
Magene PES Powermeter cranks
Alloy stem and handlebar

Tarmac SL8
Roval C38
SRAM Rival AXS
SRAM Rival Powermeter cranks
Specialized alloy stem and handlebar

The frames look very similar compared to each other apart from the „speed sniffer“. The rest looks almost identical. The specialized is like 6k€+ if you buy it new. My bike was around 2200€.

To my surprise my bike with the 50mm wheels came in at ~8.1 kg while the specialized came in at ~8.25 kg (the R088 has tpu tubes, the tarmac still has normal tubes that’s a factor to consider). Today i will ride both bikes and make a comparison of the ride feel. But since my bike comes with different tires and a smaller handlebar i‘m not sure if you can do a fair comparison to compare just the frame. But even before riding the bikes i can already tell you price to performance ratio on the china bike is so much better.

[Bonus79]

Yesterday i had the chance to put my bike next to an original Tarmac SL8.

Here are the specs of both bikes:

R088
Elite Wheels ENT 2.0 50mm
Shimano 105 Di2
Magene PES Powermeter cranks
Alloy stem and handlebar

Tarmac SL8
Roval C38
SRAM Rival AXS
SRAM Rival Powermeter cranks
Specialized alloy stem and handlebar

The frames look very similar compared to each other apart from the „speed sniffer“. The rest looks almost identical. The specialized is like 6k€+ if you buy it new. My bike was around 2200€.

To my surprise my bike with the 50mm wheels came in at ~8.1 kg while the specialized came in at ~8.25 kg (the R088 has tpu tubes, the tarmac still has normal tubes that’s a factor to consider). Today i will ride both bikes and make a comparison of the ride feel. But since my bike comes with different tires and a smaller handlebar i‘m not sure if you can do a fair comparison to compare just the frame. But even before riding the bikes i can already tell you price to performance ratio on the china bike is so much better.

I'm really curious to know...thanks!

[Tilmanstoa5ty]

I'm really curious to know...thanks!

So i rode both bikes back to back yesterday and the specialized owner also rode mine. As expected the differences in the bike setup made it almost impossible to tell exact differences in the frames ride feel. The specialized comes with 42 cm handlebars and 38 mm rims while mine comes with 38 cm handlebars and 50 mm wheels. In addition to that the bikes are fitted for two different riders. Both bikes felt great but obviously different due to the different setups. I‘m almost certain that the difference between the frames is marginal at best. Maybe if you are doing 1500+ watts sprints the specialized feels stiffer but i can’t really prove that it’s just a guess.

I‘d love to have both frames and put the exact same setup on them both fitted for my body proportions. This way the comparison would come down solely towards the frame. But this will unfortunately never happen.

[Russ68]

Does anyone have a diagram or picture of the fork, headset and stem bearing layout? I'm pretty close to finishing the build and I set the brakes up yesterday. Which highlighted some lateral movement in the assembly when the front brake is on.

So I just want to double check I have it all the right order and haven't missed anything. I cut the steerer to what I thought was the right length, the compression bung top cap fits flush. But if the steerer is over long or even just on the right length, it wouldn't give anywhere for the compression bung to go so it wouldn't compress the whole assembly down and make it tight.

I hope this is not the case, as if I need to trim the steer again, the whole lot, inc brake lines will need to come out! I am running the SPC integrated bar and stem BTW with 35mm total of spacers inc the top and bottom pieces, thanks!

[Costypezz8]

well, the parts order is pretty easy, upper earing then c-ring and then spacers. if you have the Spcycle handlebar mind that the top cap isn't flat (it’s conical) and you need the steering tube being at least 4 or 5mm below the handlebar level. I believe this is your issue on may be the c-ring not fitted properly. I say that just bacause I actually had to cut my fork tube twice, because I ended up a couple of millimeters too long at the first attempt.