Spcycle New Mold SP-R088 Carbon Road Frame

[rcwsr]

Received my frame set today, it was very well packaged and no damage to box. Weight of 58cm frame including thru axle and its cardboard sleeve is 970g. Goes without saying that’s over 1kg lighter than my condor frame, I estimate completed build will be about 7.5kg based on weight of condor.

So far no problems, di2 routing was fairly straightforward, battery sat nicely in its little carriage at bottom of seat post, didn’t have to sand anything. So far I’ve only routed rear hose and fitted crankset. Got nice exs bars that will eventually go on my condor, but using them to test my fit (using myvelofit) before I order an integrated set. Shortlist for that is avian canary, the one ultra, Lexon Vera or balugoe. And got a set of easedon flyweight 40mm on the way.

I’d say the paint is not amazing, I mean they’ve done a decent job but it’s just not the deepest black. There’s some residue from the packing all over the paint, I’m hoping it will just polish off. Also some imperfections like tiny indents in top tube near seat post that catch the light, carbon all sounds good though.

[Westmatix]

My frame also turned up yesterday to UK (also 58).  Seems ok but my concern is when installing headset (I ignored the crown race, so from bottom to top, went bearing, bearing, c clip, top cap) there is play. I haven't cut fork so can only add a stem and push down firmly.  Even so, when done, there's play in top bearing set up.

Any ideas, before I contact SP?

[Westmatix]

Secondly.....the bottom bearing, when installing on fork, is far from touching. This means as you preload...you are just putting pressure on this bearing. See pic.

[rcwsr]

That doesn’t look right how does the built in crown race look?

I’m anticipating an issue with front derailleur alignment. With it in place and tightened up to the hanger, the back of the cage is too far outboard and I’ve not touched the support set screw yet. Anyone else had this issue?

[laneweaver]

That doesn’t look right how does the built in crown race look?

I’m anticipating an issue with front derailleur alignment. With it in place and tightened up to the hanger, the back of the cage is too far outboard and I’ve not touched the support set screw yet. Anyone else had this issue?

Yup, I had the same issue with my 105 FD. Even with the support screw backed all the way out, it installed with some toe-in and I couldn't pivot it outwards on the mount. I haven't come up with a fix yet, but it does shift fine without chain rub after I gave the FD adjustment extra attention.

[laneweaver]

Secondly.....the bottom bearing, when installing on fork, is far from touching. This means as you preload...you are just putting pressure on this bearing. See pic.

I'm almost certain in my case that the bottom bearing sat against the top of the fork. Everything looked flush even without preload, prior to cutting the steerer tube.

[rcwsr]

Yup, I had the same issue with my 105 FD. Even with the support screw backed all the way out, it installed with some toe-in and I couldn't pivot it outwards on the mount. I haven't come up with a fix yet, but it does shift fine without chain rub after I gave the FD adjustment extra attention.

I wonder if I can shim it with something, or failing that use a band adapter.

Btw where did you order your seat clamp from I can’t find it in stock.

[Westmatix]

I'm almost certain in my case that the bottom bearing sat against the top of the fork. Everything looked flush even without preload, prior to cutting the steerer tube.

I contacted sp and they said that's how it should be and the play will be eliminated when preload added.

[Dr J]

So; SPCycle got back to me about this matter.

They replied the following:
“The engineer told me. Workers will use professional alignment tools to bond the BSA inlay threads. Usually the threads on the left and right sides will not be misaligned. The gap may be caused by over-sanding of the worker and will not affect the frame strength. “

But I am not afraid of the frame strength. If there remains a gap on the right side of the bottom bracket drive side bearing (bottom bracket doenst sit flush against the frame) it will lead to premature bearing failure and probably a creaking sound too right?

What do you guys think? What would be a good solution? Their explanation also leads me to  believe that I can not change this, and might need a new frame…

After talking to SPCycle about the above matter we have come to a mutual agreement. I can only complement their customerservice!

The new frame has a correctly aligned bottom bracket. Both sides screw in perfectly now. I chose the glossy ud carbon this time. The new frame has better faced brake mounts, different thru axles , and only one gold non conical spacer on the rear. Very curious to see how it rides!

[rcwsr]

I contacted sp and they said that's how it should be and the play will be eliminated when preload added.

How does it look with fork installed?

[jon_rr]

How does it look with fork installed?

Had the same thoughts with the bearing. But installed and with preload it looks like it should.

[jon_rr]

Yup, I had the same issue with my 105 FD. Even with the support screw backed all the way out, it installed with some toe-in and I couldn't pivot it outwards on the mount. I haven't come up with a fix yet, but it does shift fine without chain rub after I gave the FD adjustment extra attention.

Same here. Did you guys installed the little silver metal protector? When I tried it without it and just a slim frame protector piece, the FD aligned nicely

[rcwsr]

Same here. Did you guys installed the little silver metal protector? When I tried it without it and just a slim frame protector piece, the FD aligned nicely

Nope not using that as the tension bolt touches the braze on, at least I think it does I’m now doubting myself and may have a nice bolt shaped hole in my new frame! Edit: I checked it touches the mount, not frame

I’ve had a little success putting firm, even force into the derailleur body (not cage), encouraging the rear inboard while tightening the bolt, and it’s almost parallel. I might also try gently filing the rivets for the braze on as I noticed they’re not very flat. Ultimately I think they’re put in at the wrong angle.

[jon_rr]

Had the same thoughts with the bearing. But installed and with preload it looks like it should.

Only thing I‘m not 100% sure about is preload. No matter how much I tighten the Ahead-Cap-Bolt, the steering won’t get rough. But I feel that everything gets nicely compressed as it should. Maybe it should be that way, just not used to it from other bikes 🤷🏼

[rcwsr]

Shimming is the way. As a test I cut a bit of a builders spacer up to put under the right side of the mount, it’s about 1.5mm thick. Works a treat, I just need to find something more aesthetically pleasing, maybe a black credit card or something. Photos show before and after tension bolt adjustment.