Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[Westman]

In France, I checked prices near where I live, it starts from 180 to 350 €.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

In France, I checked prices near where I live, it starts from 180 to 350 €.

An option. It wouldn’t be as good, but better than guessing.
https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/

[Westman]

Thank you.

[bsharp77]

An option. It wouldn’t be as good, but better than guessing.
https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/

I’ve been riding for 20 years and thought I had a good grasp on my fit.
Tried myvelofit last week and it immediately said my saddle was 5cm too high 

It’s been a crazy shift in feeling - I’ve settled around 3cm lower at the minute….the difference in balance and comfort is absolutely crazy. I can do things like the puppy paw position due to how planted I feel - legs will take some muscular adjustment and the brain needs to follow, but it’s been such an eye opener.

Give it a try - there’s a free option to start and the paid options aren’t a fortune. If you don’t want to pay for a fitter, this is a great option.

[jksu]

my guess is very few people, no matter how many times it's suggested, will get a bike fit.  folks are spending $700 on a frame, so $200-300 for a bike fit may be difficult.  i'm all for bike fits (used to do them) but i understand the friction. 

truth is most people are still think of choosing a bike like buying a T-shirt (small/medium/large/etc).  in the simplistic terms that's technically true, but yes, it can be super complicated too.  but i also think the newer you are, the less the subtleties will be noticed.  i remember adjusting the saddle a few mm up/down/forward/rearward for my wife and kids' bikes.  no one ever noticed! :-).  ok, maybe my son appreciated me raising and moving the seat a bit when he was growing like a weed :-)

as for dropping the saddle, i went through something similar when i got my gravel bike 2 years ago.

i thought i knew my measurements after years of road riding and transferred them fairly closely to the gravel bike.  but i felt just a bit sketchy on descents still, kind of top heavy despite the bike having a greater bb drop and slacker head tube angle, etc.   so i dropped the saddle 5mm.   the lowering of center of gravity, really being able to weight the outside pedal, a little more flex in the knees to absorb bumps, all made for a huge difference.  also felt more power at the bottom of the pedal stroke. 

i decided to drop my road saddle 5mm (and back a little to compensate) and same benefits!  felt a little too low at first, but within a few rides, i was setting descending PRs and even some climbing ones with the added power.   a few weeks after that, swapped to shorter stem on the road bike too and could more easily get in "puppy paws" and stay in the drops, etc.  just shows age, loss of flexibility, etc. sneaks up on us.

maybe that'll take some pressure on some of the newbie folks getting their fit absolutely right.  '

a new bike will always take some getting used to.  and if you're newish, you may not be all that set on your old fit.  give it a few rides.  if it feels off, make some minor adjustments (seat back/forward, up/down, etc) and ride a few more times and see if it feels better.  bummer is with the new integrated cockpits you lose the ability to easily and relatively inexpensively swap to a different stem.  i have a couple shoe boxes of old 26 and 31.6 stems from 80-140mm from the various mountain, road, tri, tandem bikes we've had!

[POTOOOOOOOO]

my guess is very few people, no matter how many times it's suggested, will get a bike fit.  folks are spending $700 on a frame, so $200-300 for a bike fit may be difficult.  i'm all for bike fits (used to do them) but i understand the friction. 

truth is most people are still think of choosing a bike like buying a T-shirt (small/medium/large/etc).  in the simplistic terms that's technically true, but yes, it can be super complicated too.  but i also think the newer you are, the less the subtleties will be noticed.  i remember adjusting the saddle a few mm up/down/forward/rearward for my wife and kids' bikes.  no one ever noticed! :-).  ok, maybe my son appreciated me raising and moving the seat a bit when he was growing like a weed :-)

as for dropping the saddle, i went through something similar when i got my gravel bike 2 years ago.

i thought i knew my measurements after years of road riding and transferred them fairly closely to the gravel bike.  but i felt just a bit sketchy on descents still, kind of top heavy despite the bike having a greater bb drop and slacker head tube angle, etc.   so i dropped the saddle 5mm.   the lowering of center of gravity, really being able to weight the outside pedal, a little more flex in the knees to absorb bumps, all made for a huge difference.  also felt more power at the bottom of the pedal stroke. 

i decided to drop my road saddle 5mm (and back a little to compensate) and same benefits!  felt a little too low at first, but within a few rides, i was setting descending PRs and even some climbing ones with the added power.   a few weeks after that, swapped to shorter stem on the road bike too and could more easily get in "puppy paws" and stay in the drops, etc.  just shows age, loss of flexibility, etc. sneaks up on us.

maybe that'll take some pressure on some of the newbie folks getting their fit absolutely right.  '

a new bike will always take some getting used to.  and if you're newish, you may not be all that set on your old fit.  give it a few rides.  if it feels off, make some minor adjustments (seat back/forward, up/down, etc) and ride a few more times and see if it feels better.  bummer is with the new integrated cockpits you lose the ability to easily and relatively inexpensively swap to a different stem.  i have a couple shoe boxes of old 26 and 31.6 stems from 80-140mm from the various mountain, road, tri, tandem bikes we've had!

To a degree I agree with you. But some people notice micro adjustments too.

I build bikes for quite a few racers in my local area, and also suggest fit changes based on what I see and their need/feedback.

Some are willing to experiment and see decent gains while others are absolutely set on a particular position and won’t change, regardless of benefit (narrower bars aiding aero)

However. I would always suggest someone new to cycling get a baseline fit before their muscles get accustomed to a potentially wrong fit, and need to be “reprogrammed”
I suggest MYvelofit because it’s easy and cheap, and it’s good enough.


Every few weeks we get a new person on this thread and asking for bike fit advice. I’ve seen a few people guess their size and order their frame. A few weeks later they proudly show of their bike and you can tell from the picture it’s absolutely terribly put together,  but yet they always say “fits me perfectly” they think that, because their fit has always been wrong and they’re programmed into it.
Sure it might work but i’m positive they’re missing out on power, climbing ability, handling and comfort . While possibly allowing the opportunity for injury.

Height and inside leg are the dumbest metrics to assess bike size, the industry needs to solve this.

I’m 178cm and ride a 52 - with a 110 stem I have long legs and short arms. If you look at a size guide they usually suggest a 54 or even a 56.

My first bikes were always purchased based from the size chart so I went with 54s - I always disliked them so sold and purchased another and another and another, always feeling like something was wrong. But I didn’t know any better.

It was only when a saw a decent fitter that I opted for a 52 and everything clicked - I actually felt like I could extract the potential.

Just to confirm I even purchased the same frame in a 52 and 54 just to experiment, and the 54 is always too big. Or in order to get it to fit, i start to encounter handling traits I really don’t like.

[bsharp77]

To a degree I agree with you. But some people notice micro adjustments too.

I build bikes for quite a few racers in my local area, and also suggest fit changes based on what I see and their need/feedback.

Some are willing to experiment and see decent gains while others are absolutely set on a particular position and won’t change, regardless of benefit (narrower bars aiding aero)

However. I would always suggest someone new to cycling get a baseline fit before their muscles get accustomed to a potentially wrong fit, and need to be “reprogrammed”
I suggest MYvelofit because it’s easy and cheap, and it’s good enough.


Every few weeks we get a new person on this thread and asking for bike fit advice. I’ve seen a few people guess their size and order their frame. A few weeks later they proudly show of their bike and you can tell from the picture it’s absolutely terribly put together,  but yet they always say “fits me perfectly” they think that, because their fit has always been wrong and they’re programmed into it.
Sure it might work but i’m positive they’re missing out on power, climbing ability, handling and comfort . While possibly allowing the opportunity for injury.

Height and inside leg are the dumbest metrics to assess bike size, the industry needs to solve this.

I’m 178cm and ride a 52 - with a 110 stem I have long legs and short arms. If you look at a size guide they usually suggest a 54 or even a 56.

My first bikes were always purchased based from the size chart so I went with 54s - I always disliked them so sold and purchased another and another and another, always feeling like something was wrong. But I didn’t know any better.

It was only when a saw a decent fitter that I opted for a 52 and everything clicked - I actually felt like I could extract the potential.

Just to confirm I even purchased the same frame in a 52 and 54 just to experiment, and the 54 is always too big. Or in order to get it to fit, i start to encounter handling traits I really don’t like.

Yeah, a cheap online fit has turned what I thought about my fit on its head.
Im 180cm and have always been recommended 54 or 56 by all bike brands - going by my new fit I would actually be better off on a 52 as well - I could run a 110mm stem and would have a bit more exposed seatpost than I have now (now thats its been reduced).
You're never too old or too experienced to learn something new, and this has been a major lesson!

[POTOOOOOOOO]

Yeah, a cheap online fit has turned what I thought about my fit on its head.
Im 180cm and have always been recommended 54 or 56 by all bike brands - going by my new fit I would actually be better off on a 52 as well - I could run a 110mm stem and would have a bit more exposed seatpost than I have now (now thats its been reduced).
You're never too old or too experienced to learn something new, and this has been a major lesson!

Did you try the free version, or the paid for?
I’m honestly surprised by the amount seatpost height it’s suggesting to reduce- that’s not to say I’m doubting the results.
A friend of mine had similar results after a full bike fit with a well regarded guy in Ireland. It was transformative, and after years of back pain and discomfort he’s absolutely flying and mostly pain free.

[chubv]

I’ve been riding for 20 years and thought I had a good grasp on my fit.
Tried myvelofit last week and it immediately said my saddle was 5cm too high 

It’s been a crazy shift in feeling - I’ve settled around 3cm lower at the minute….

Sorry for the question, but how did you manage to set the saddle 5 cm too high? If I do that, I wouldn't even be able to reach the pedal.
Even the simple check (heel on the pedal) wouldn't work in that case.

[Serge_K]

https://www.myvelofit.com/pricing/rider/

In France, I checked prices near where I live, it starts from 180 to 350 €.

DIY fit (or yolo) vs bike fit vs online fit is a key question for most, could be a separate thread.

Beyond cost of real life fit, there's distance / wait lists, and maybe even more importantly, it's very easy to find people who go through a bike fit and ultimately regret it. (not worth it, incompetence...).
I think that people who experience pain on the bike "should" get a bike fit. But i dont think i'd say the same for those who dont.

Moving to online bike fit tools, if it turns out to work well, sounds like a great development. I wanted to point out that https://www.youtube.com/@myvelofit has a toooon of videos, so there's a good chance that whether free or paid, the myvelofit experience is likely to be better if you spend time watching some of their stuff. I suspect that most people who're thinking about a bike fit have a specific area of interest. Mine, currently, is wondering how much more stack i should / could add to my cockpit (and how much longer the stem should be) so that i can have a more sustainable puppy paws position. And when that would start affecting handling downhill.
For that, I do miss very much the era of being able to swap out stems for 10 eur, or even using adjustable stems.
I think i saw a youtuber (peak torque?) saying their favourite feature on their dedicated home trainer was the ability to change fits in minutes (like the zwift / wahoo bike). A bike fit at home where you're stuck in one front position because of your cockpit sounds like a huge limiting aspect.

Maybe the answer is finding a friend with such rig, and do one's fit at his place one day

[bsharp77]

Did you try the free version, or the paid for?
I’m honestly surprised by the amount seatpost height it’s suggesting to reduce- that’s not to say I’m doubting the results.
A friend of mine had similar results after a full bike fit with a well regarded guy in Ireland. It was transformative, and after years of back pain and discomfort he’s absolutely flying and mostly pain free.

I ended up paying for the pro version to get the unlimited uploads (it kept reducing me 1cm at a time, so I quickly ran out of quota).

5cm down was crazy - felt terrible in the legs and would be unsustainable, but it was enough to change my thought process due to the way it unweighted my hands and gave me total freedom.
Took the LCR018 out for a 3 hour ride with an Allen key in my pocket and adjusted 3 or 4 times until I came to a compromise around 3cm lower where I still had this great solid platform and heading more towards the leg/knee angles myvelofit suggested.
Im obviously activating muscles in a totally different way now, so need to do a few weeks to really settle into the position, but overall its an excellent change - and ive ordered a 90mm integrated handlebar instead of my 80mm which will hopefully be the final piece in the puzzle.

Looking back all of a sudden, my old position feels crazy, yet I was out doing 4 hour rides like that for year after year.

The only downside to an online fit is the lack of feedback - id like to cut my steerer to drop the bars down another 1cm, however myvelofit is suggesting that the bars are already where they should be for an aggressive fit ad already too low for a performance/comfort balanced fit. Being a flat recommendation, theres no one to question or ask what options are available, but for the cost involved and the basic results you get, it really is a great service.

[POTOOOOOOOO]

DIY fit (or yolo) vs bike fit vs online fit is a key question for most, could be a separate thread.

Beyond cost of real life fit, there's distance / wait lists, and maybe even more importantly, it's very easy to find people who go through a bike fit and ultimately regret it. (not worth it, incompetence...).
I think that people who experience pain on the bike "should" get a bike fit. But i dont think i'd say the same for those who dont.

Moving to online bike fit tools, if it turns out to work well, sounds like a great development. I wanted to point out that https://www.youtube.com/@myvelofit has a toooon of videos, so there's a good chance that whether free or paid, the myvelofit experience is likely to be better if you spend time watching some of their stuff. I suspect that most people who're thinking about a bike fit have a specific area of interest. Mine, currently, is wondering how much more stack i should / could add to my cockpit (and how much longer the stem should be) so that i can have a more sustainable puppy paws position. And when that would start affecting handling downhill.
For that, I do miss very much the era of being able to swap out stems for 10 eur, or even using adjustable stems.
I think i saw a youtuber (peak torque?) saying their favourite feature on their dedicated home trainer was the ability to change fits in minutes (like the zwift / wahoo bike). A bike fit at home where you're stuck in one front position because of your cockpit sounds like a huge limiting aspect.

Maybe the answer is finding a friend with such rig, and do one's fit at his place one day

I’ve found that a turbo trainer position and a bike you ride on the road have different positions which aren’t necessarily transferable.
Sounds strange but it’s a real thing, so I’d be cautious setting up a bike on a turbo, then replicating that.


As you rightly said, bike fit it another thread entirely, but so now I hope this helps people.

[Serge_K]

The only downside to an online fit is the lack of feedback - id like to cut my steerer to drop the bars down another 1cm, however myvelofit is suggesting that the bars are already where they should be for an aggressive fit ad already too low for a performance/comfort balanced fit. Being a flat recommendation, theres no one to question or ask what options are available, but for the cost involved and the basic results you get, it really is a great service.

Good point. their website offers a human review for a fee. Worth considering. Also worth considering would be to reach out to a bike fitter with the right videos / evolution of fit and ask for input / pay for their time? If you say that you're in a different country, but value their input, they might help for free / for a fee, i'd say it's worth trying. Although i would first get used to the new riding position, because that saddle height change sounds dramatic, so i wouldnt fire my last bullet too fast.

[JensenMacD]

One thing to consider for your bike fit if/where possible. My local bike fitter is a physiotherapist, so a pre/post-purchase bike fit can be applied towards my health benefits. Something to check and consider when looking around.

[Jamula]

Update on lead times for those interested. I paid on June 17th and was told 25-35 days for size 52 frame in raw carbon glossy + 400x100 bars + C53DB wheels. 

Update yesterday (35 days post order) was that frame is 10 days away, fork 15 days and handlebar 30 days. Based on other's experiences in this thread I was expecting closer to 60 days in total so not exactly a surprise, but bizarre that their estimates are so consistently wrong.