Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[rosteven]

i guess "low" is relative, but curious what other endurance bikes you're comparing the LCR018? in a 56, stack is 587 listed but there's an additional few mm from the bearing cap and HBR17 bar rise, so probably close to 600mm stack.

coming from a parlee altum (593), i was considering an envy fray (591).  but other "endurance" bikes include giant defy (605), specialized roubaix (605), trek domain (591), canyon endurance (590), cannondale synapse (590), specialized aethos 2 (580), factor monza (574).

so i'd consider the LCR018 very much in the "endurance" category in terms of stack.

Exactly why I asked 2wheeledbarbie "Low stack compared what"...

[Michael75455]

April 16th - ordered 54cm frameset with custom paint, bars are 400/80, Offset seatpost, power meter, crankset
June 28th - received pictures of the painted frameset
June 29th - received picture of all parts ordered ready to be placed in the box
June 30th - order shipped
July 10th - asked Chloe for the tracking number and she sent it
July 14th - received package with the power meter
July 21st - tracking indicates UPS now has the package
July 24th - I received the box in excellent condition (Northeast Texas USA)

Weight 7.5kg (16.7lbs)
This came with the storage door latch that pulls up for release and has the detent in the lock position; also the foam strips.
The seatpost has the grip texture.
https://youtu.be/tRF5Ah_UVPw?si=yIZ0p4iHjyFzrUQg
Video:

[J89eu]

I know it's not a topic specific to hear but I am wondering what crank lengths people are using? I have an 87cm inseam to the floor, 77cm to ankle roughly. My current bike has a 175mm crank but I feel like I could go smaller as my cadence tends to be a bit lower than it should, about 85-90 most of the time. I also have chondroamalacia patella and as I understand, a faster cadence can help with knee issues. Most bikes around my size are fitting 170 and 172.5mm cranks. I have now purchased a 58cm, with 110cm stem and thinking to grab 170 currently. I can obviously resell and go 172.5mm later on but more hassle. Wonder what people may recommend? Other than "get a bike fit!" as I will get one, I just want a ball park to start with

[Serge_K]

I know it's not a topic specific to hear but I am wondering what crank lengths people are using? I have an 87cm inseam to the floor, 77cm to ankle roughly. My current bike has a 175mm crank but I feel like I could go smaller as my cadence tends to be a bit lower than it should, about 85-90 most of the time. I also have chondroamalacia patella and as I understand, a faster cadence can help with knee issues. Most bikes around my size are fitting 170 and 172.5mm cranks. I have now purchased a 58cm, with 110cm stem and thinking to grab 170 currently. I can obviously resell and go 172.5mm later on but more hassle. Wonder what people may recommend? Other than "get a bike fit!" as I will get one, I just want a ball park to start with

Wrong thread. Has nothing to do with this frame

[POTOOOOOOOO]

Wrong thread. Has nothing to do with this frame

Neither does tyre width etc etc etc


Lots on info out there on crank length.
Generally, and in my own personal experience there aren’t really any down sides to going shorter.
I went from 172.5 to 170 then 165 where I currently am. In hindsight I should have gone from 172.5 to 165, the extra step was just wasted time and money.

Just be aware you’ll need to increase your saddle height and therefore bar height to keep everything the same - again, there are tones of information about just how much you need to change these things.

Be brave and go 165 ( if you can find one in stock ) if you don’t like it, they’re easy to sell, so it’s a cheap experiment.

[jksu]

similar inseam to you and ride a 56 size frame.  i went from 175 to 165 about 20yrs ago on my triathlon bike to make it easier to spin in the aero position (less knee slamming into chest, easier to spin when fatigued and easier to transition onto the run) but didn’t make the change to my road bikes until about 10yrs ago.

i had noticed pinching pain in the front of my right hip after aggressive trail running or just faster running, that lingered even on the bike. basically was diagnosed with hip impingement.

bought a cheap black 105 level (rs10?) crankset to experiment (swapped the dura ace chainrings to save a few grams even though it looks a bit funky) and it worked so well it’s still on my parlee. no more pinching pain at the top of the stroke, definitely easier to get aero (flat back) and you can pedal through corners a bit easier. less pedal strikes. a little less toe overlap if you have big feet with shorter cranks too. i was PRing on a certain local group ride climb and i attribute it to the benefits from the shorter crank arms (efficiency, aero, maintaining power through corners) since i sure wasn’t getting any younger or putting in more miles.

only drawback or adjustment for me was when sprinting or out of the saddle, it did take a little bit of adjustment not having the bigger torque of the longer crank arms… you sort of just learned to spin hard and fast and stay seated a little longer.  now that i’m used to it, i’d say i get out of the saddle as much as i used to but there’s not as big of a jump in watts, but that could be i’m just older too.

in any case, have since swapped to 165cranks on the gravel bike and spec’d it on the LCR.  definitely one of the benefits of buying the frame and parts separately is you can specify 165 cranks when buying the groupset.

will it for sure make your knee pain better? maybe. avoiding pushing big gears and thus sticking with higher cadence will likely help, so shorter cranks would facilitate that. you probably don’t want to be too quad dominant so probably would be careful not having your seat too far forward. 

I know it's not a topic specific to hear but I am wondering what crank lengths people are using? I have an 87cm inseam to the floor, 77cm to ankle roughly. My current bike has a 175mm crank but I feel like I could go smaller as my cadence tends to be a bit lower than it should, about 85-90 most of the time. I also have chondroamalacia patella and as I understand, a faster cadence can help with knee issues. Most bikes around my size are fitting 170 and 172.5mm cranks. I have now purchased a 58cm, with 110cm stem and thinking to grab 170 currently. I can obviously resell and go 172.5mm later on but more hassle. Wonder what people may recommend? Other than "get a bike fit!" as I will get one, I just want a ball park to start with

[jksu]

Neither does tyre width etc etc etc


Lots on info out there a crank length.
Generally, and in my own personal experience there aren’t really any down sides to going shorter.
I went from 172.5 to 170 then 165 where I currently am. In hindsight I should have gone from 172.5 to 165, the extra step was just wasted time and money.

Just be aware you’ll need to increase your saddle height and therefore bar height to keep everything the same - again, there are tones of information about just how much you need to change these things.

Be brave and go 165 ( if you can find one in stock ) if you don’t like it, they’re easy to sell, so it’s a cheap experiment.

definitely agree with skipping right to 165.  won’t feel much with a 2.5mm change.

[J89eu]

Apologies for bringing it to this thread but I do feel like given the expertise in this thread that regularly come here and the geometry being the same for you guys to me, it at least gives me a data point so I appreciate the responses. Happy to open a thread here to discuss more if you guys think it's worth it. I do notice that I want to be a little further back in the saddle since the issue came about which of course I'll mention to my bike fitter, and make them aware of the issue before I go in case they want to do some research or something, I don't know, but can't hurt! I specifically want to target the VMO muscle of the quads to pull on the knee cap more to keep it straight on the bending.

165 sounds such a big jump that I'm rather intimidated by the thought of it but of course I would not rule anything out as I am not experienced like you folks!

[POTOOOOOOOO]

2.5 mm can be swallowed just by the small amount of slack in your shoes. The cleat can effectively move back or forth more than that - which is the same for everyone, but puts it into perspective.

If you want change, you need to make change. 5mm will not make much of an effective difference, so I’d be willing to bet any felt “benefit” is placebo rather than mechanical or physical.

I built a bike for a friend of mine who was having some fit issues. I swapped him from a 175mm to a 165mm and he didn’t notice the shorter length, but he noticed his hip muscles weren’t as tight anymore.


Currently swapping all his bikes to 165 as the cranks become available

[mingc]

I finished my build, finally. Ordered April 9, received June 30 in the US Pacific NW. I got both the straight and set back seatposts and a 400/100 handle bar. I've no idea if any of the components delayed shipping. The quality and finish of the frame and components were excellent. I didn't need to chase any threads or face any mounts or the bottom bracket. I used the supplied bearings, steerer tube expansion plug and Gineyea T-47 BB. I skipped the supplied derailleur hanger to opt for a direct mount UDH hanger. Ultegra Di2 group set is from Anrancee on AliExpress.

Frame is a 52 cm. Wheels are XMCS, 50 mm deep, 26 mm inner width, 33 outer, with 3.8 mm carbon spokes. Ryet Aircode saddle. Running regular 32 mm GP5000s with RideNow TPU tubes. Total weight with computer mount, bar tape, bar end plugs, bottle cages, chain catcher, and pedals, is 7.65 kg. Feels fast but no faster than it should for its weight, I don't think. Also stiff but I ascribe that to the wheels and in particular, the carbon spokes.

Biggest assembly challenge was threading the very stiff pre-filled brake hose through the fork. I had to use a needle nose pliers to fish the end of the hose out of the steerer tube opening. I also slapped so much carbon paste on the seatpost that it got stuck in the middle before I could get it to my desired position; I had to brace my foot against the top of the bottom triangle to pull the post out. It finally came out with so much force that one of the Di2 wires pulled off the battery. Luckily nothing broke or got scratched. So far, everything is holding firm and no parts are slipping or creaking. I did use carbon paste on all the sliding surfaces on the saddle mount.

I would not have ordered the Ti computer mount if I had known that it is actually heavier than the supplied resin mount. The Ti mount doesn't look cool enough to me to justify its additional cost and minor weight penalty.

I've only taken it on a couple of short test rides, the last one for an hour, and it feels very nice. Taking it on a hill climb later today.

[2wheeledbarbie]

Low stack compared to what?

Merida Scultura Endurance
Trek Domane 47
Giant Defy Advanced XS
Canyon Endurace AllRoad

I personally would liked it a bit taller but the top tube length is great.  It's a compact size. 

[szorek]

It looks great, and the weight is good, too.
 Can I ask what height you have your saddle set to from the center of the bottom bracket?

[2wheeledbarbie]

I know it's not a topic specific to hear but I am wondering what crank lengths people are using? I have an 87cm inseam to the floor, 77cm to ankle roughly. My current bike has a 175mm crank but I feel like I could go smaller as my cadence tends to be a bit lower than it should, about 85-90 most of the time. I also have chondroamalacia patella and as I understand, a faster cadence can help with knee issues. Most bikes around my size are fitting 170 and 172.5mm cranks. I have now purchased a 58cm, with 110cm stem and thinking to grab 170 currently. I can obviously resell and go 172.5mm later on but more hassle. Wonder what people may recommend? Other than "get a bike fit!" as I will get one, I just want a ball park to start with

have you done an online bike fit to look at it?  I use an free online one to look at angles and get chatgpt to analyse it along with foot position.  going shorter isn't for everyone.  I'm 5'6 and use 170mm cranks.  Changing cranks changes a lot of things.  So while it could help with your medical issue it might change things for the worse on your overall position. 

https://mybikefitting.com/en  really easy to do. 

[mingc]

It looks great, and the weight is good, too.
 Can I ask what height you have your saddle set to from the center of the bottom bracket?

If you're asking me, 722 mm, but I need to remeasure. It feels a little higher.

[GreyRacer]

Now my bike is ready. No 390x90 handlebars before end of August. So picked a stock size. 400x80.
Else it would be 380x80 or 400x120. Handlebars are not produced with frames to match order it seems. They have from 5 to 45 in stock depending on size. Not a huge stock.

Got the British racing green and black logo. Wanted a logo but not too bright/screaming. Hope it will help resale value at some point.

One user sent photos of his bike to show shadow parts are dark. And here are the photos as I got them. Picked all British racing green and black logo.parts in shadow are great. Highlight is a bit bright/light green. But I guess Mads Pedersen just made that color popular yesterday in Paris.

Now I can order the other parts needed for the build. Missing just the Ultegra di2 groupset and the cable for updating handles.

Looking forward to the build.

Paid on 23 May 2026. Promised done on 23 July 2026.  So 2 months as indicated initially.

Update: got a tracking number from local postal service, within hours of choosing a handlebar in stock. Not yet from LC. But guess it was booked at DHL which pushed on the request. And dimensions. 101x55x21cm and 5.5kg