Lightcarbon: LCR018-D (endurance all-road)

[pandaman]

Anyone tried running with the Seatpost below the max insertion depth? I.e beyond where the grippy surface ends.

My Seatpost is at the lowest point already but when compared to my old bike it looks to be 5-10mm higher. So on the LCR018-D this would mean it would grip on a smooth section of the post.

[mingc]

I've not, though I was worried I'd have to, before I got my saddle height dialed in. If you look at the seat tube, it narrows in the middle. Looking inside the seat tube, there's a shelf in the middle that prevents the seat post from going down further. So, you'll likely have to cut your seat post if you want to insert it beyond the part with the rough surface. I think a generous amount of carbon paste will prevent slipping.

[MJaerogains]

It’s been winter here in Australia so haven’t ridden the LCR-018 that often, plus been trying to fix an ongoing annoying creak in the seatpost.

But I did my first long hard ride as part of a local ‘gran fondo’ style event last weekend, 190km, relatively flat and fast in a group of 40-50 on the way out and about 20 of us on the way back. The bike was everything I had hoped it would be when I bought it, really responsive to putting some power into the pedals, climbs way better than I expected, the high stack allowed me to stay in the aero tuck position for extended periods and lots of turns on the front of the group.

I haven’t got my fitness back up (after a health issue) for racing again yet, interested to see how it  handles in a crit. Not sure I’ll go wider than the 30mm tires that measure 33 on my rims, it feels good as is, so stable railing turns at high speed on the flat or down hills.

As mentioned previously I came from a Supersix that handled beautifully in all situations except being a bit skittish on high speed descents. I’m way more confident on the LCR (maybe that’s not a good thing because I’m descending faster lol).

Took my bike into a new mechanic today and straight away he said he thinks the bottom of my seatpost is knocking against the seat tube when I’m climbing seated (which is the main time it creaks, stops as soon as I stand on the pedals), he’s seen it before, so likely he will cut it a bit shorter.

 

[Aerodurance]

I think a generous amount of carbon paste will prevent slipping.

Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.

Took my bike into a new mechanic today and straight away he said he thinks the bottom of my seatpost is knocking against the seat tube when I’m climbing seated (which is the main time it creaks, stops as soon as I stand on the pedals), he’s seen it before, so likely he will cut it a bit shorter.

I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?

[mingc]

Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.

I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?

I've had good luck with Silca carbon assembly paste but would not suggest it to you. With your luck, even epoxy might not stop your seat post from slipping.

[rosteven]

Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.

I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?

Maybe when you request the updated seatpost clamp from LC, also order a replacement seatpost - might finally solve your slippage problem once and for all.

[kisuke3]

I bought the LCR-018D in January and have ridden it for several hundred kilometers. I was concerned about the seatpost slipping, so I recently had a new one sent to me. The new one clearly has a thicker carbon layup. It doesn’t slip at all. I hope this is helpful to everyone.

[DrRoB]

Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.

I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?

I dient had the slipping problem Seatpost is staying in place even with my 90kg.

Unfortunately, I’m still having that issue with the creaking bottom bracket.
I’ve already tried the Genyua, a Ceramic Kaktus, a Praxis Works, and a one-piece BB from Bikone (€300), but it still creaks whenever I put down more than 200W or ride out of the saddle. I’ve definitely ruled out all the other potential sources of creaking. For now, I’m just riding it as is—I’ve more or less given up.

[DrRoB]

And I’m pretty sure it’s the bottom bracket, because the higher the quality of the BB, the less it creaks. With the one from LC Genuya—or whatever it’s called—it happened on every pedal stroke, regardless of the wattage I was putting out.

[szorek]

Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?

maybe TOKEN BB47V24? It comes with spacers on both sides for 85.5 mm. It looks like this will prevent it from digging into the carbon, which was your problem. Token claims to have premium bearings.

[Dark17]

Unfortunately not.
My bike now 400km and I re-clamped the seat post ~5-6-7 times.
Its installed with Dynamic Carbon paste.
Its torques with a Wera Torque wrench to 6, then 8 and the last two times with 10Nm.
Its clamped on the wannabe grippy paint (which is now stripped of, because of slipping).
It is really annoying. I will email Carol tomorrow asking for options: another clamp or seatpost or both or just hammering 20Nm on it, i dont know.

I cut 60mm from my stem, but it still creaks. But i think its the standard LCR Bottom bracket thats pretty cheap.
Will change it to Praxis Works one.
Or what would you guys say is a good, fair priced T47 BB for Shimano gear?

Try putting blue loctite on seatpost bolts

[szorek]

And I’m pretty sure it’s the bottom bracket, because the higher the quality of the BB, the less it creaks. With the one from LC Genuya—or whatever it’s called—it happened on every pedal stroke, regardless of the wattage I was putting out.

Are you using a crank from a brand other than Shimano or SRAM? Maybe that's the problem.

[2JPW]

I've had good luck with Silca carbon assembly paste but would not suggest it to you. With your luck, even epoxy might not stop your seat post from slipping.

Hope T47 are very good quality.

[DrRoB]

Are you using a crank from a brand other than Shimano or SRAM? Maybe that's the problem.

I’ve already tried it with Magene P515, 105, and Ultegra cranks. The creaking only changes depending on the bottom brackets.
I'm pretty sure it's not the crank.

[MJaerogains]

My mechanic found another source of clicky sounds: the rear bottle cage bolts. He regreased everything.

I hadn’t heard that as a separate sound so looking forward to a very quiet bike later this week when I get out on it again!