LTK266-D-SL, race frame, 680g, <800g w/paint & metal parts (M), fits 35mm+ tires

[Sakizashi]

Would it be strange to put together a gallery of builds for the first post? I tend to use Imgur so the UK folks will be left out, but it might make a nice addition to the first page. I figure I would use just the ones in here, though Permeants has a few more builds on their webpage, so it would feature the builds from @Klrdd, @BeeMC, @eddyhaideli (fair is fair even if that is an official account for tideace) and and my own build.

I dont know if my own build is cool, but here it is set up for some cross.

[BikerJens]

Would it be strange to put together a gallery of builds for the first post? I tend to use Imgur so the UK folks will be left out, but it might make a nice addition to the first page. I figure I would use just the ones in here, though Permeants has a few more builds on their webpage, so it would feature the builds from @Klrdd, @BeeMC, @eddyhaideli (fair is fair even if that is an official account for tideace) and and my own build.

I dont know if my own build is cool, but here it is set up for some cross.

I don't plan to get this bike at the moment, but if I ever decide to get one I'm going to sent a picture of yours and ask for the same!

Looks amazing.

[klrdd]

@klrdd what is the standover height of your bike? I'm trying to decide between M and L. My inseam is 81cm and when I mapped it up in bikegeocalc it looked like it would be about 78cm standover for the L but it was a little hard to tell. I've had it be slightly off before, probably because I estimated the wheel diameter wrong.

First time ever measuring this. I measured just in front of the BB where I would normally straddle the bike. Standover is just a shade under 80cm w/ the Michelin Pro5 35mm slicks, which might explain the ~+1cm depending on the tire input for bikegeocalc? My (shoeless) inseam is ~86cm, so with bike shoes+cleats on, it's a non-issue for me.

[klrdd]

Would it be strange to put together a gallery of builds for the first post? I tend to use Imgur so the UK folks will be left out, but it might make a nice addition to the first page. I figure I would use just the ones in here, though Permeants has a few more builds on their webpage, so it would feature the builds from @Klrdd, @BeeMC, @eddyhaideli (fair is fair even if that is an official account for tideace) and and my own build.

I dont know if my own build is cool, but here it is set up for some cross.

Your build looks great. I'm cool with build photos on the front page.

[stepahin]

Guys, could you please explain a bit about the frame finish to me? I'm confused, and Alisa isn't exactly quick to respond, plus I don't want to bother her too much.


a. This is raw carbon, sanded and ready for painting, but NOT polished, right? (@contraptions)


b. This is what raw carbon looks like under a tinted green clear coat, right? (@klrdd)


c. This also looks like raw carbon but properly polished, right? (https://www.ltbikes.com/uploads/20250606/fbe7b3a519df6be74be67c58506e8833.jpg)


d. This frame is painted black, but the bottom bracket and rear triangle are without glossy varnish / with matte varnish, right? (@INSVNX)

Now please help me understand:
1. How to order the polished version? Like "raw carbon, without paint and varnish, perfectly polished, not just sanded"? I wouldn't want to get option (a.) like @contraptions, without polishing or paint/coating it looks "too raw"
2. Are there any downsides to leaving polished carbon without any coating? For example, it seems Winspace SLC3 is sold without coating.
3. Hey @contraptions, judging by your weighing photos, you received a completely UNPOLISHED frame and mentioned planning to apply Cerakote. If you don't mind, could you show how it turned out? Is it true that one layer of Cerakote only adds 10-15 grams, or did GPT deceive me again?

———

I asked Alisa about complex paint jobs like Cannondale X Rapha, and she confidently replied No, they definitely can't do anything complex even for extra money (btw LightCarbon replied to me that they can), and even when I asked if it was possible to do a gradient of 3-4 colors, she also refused:

...for single set, the most colors we can do is 2 colors with gradient, and for the color, we only use the ones we have in stock, we don't order new paint oil, because it'll cost much, thanks for your understanding!

[contraptions]

3. Hey @contraptions, judging by your weighing photos, you received a completely UNPOLISHED frame and mentioned planning to apply Cerakote. If you don't mind, could you show how it turned out? Is it true that one layer of Cerakote only adds 10-15 grams, or did GPT deceive me again?

I haven't had a chance to Cerakote it yet - hopefully tomorrow.  I'll post a picture/weight as soon as I do but it may slip another week as I can only do this during daylight hours on the w/e.

[Ohmanndill]

I haven't had a chance to Cerakote it yet - hopefully tomorrow.  I'll post a picture/weight as soon as I do but it may slip another week as I can only do this during daylight hours on the w/e.

Painter friend of mine told me you have to put the frame in a oven after applying Cerakote, have you ever done that before?

[Sakizashi]

Painter friend of mine told me you have to put the frame in a oven after applying Cerakote, have you ever done that before?

Most bike frames are painted with C-series Cerakote. There is significant variation in hardness by color. The blue titanium, for example, is tough, while the bright colors like purple are not that much harder than a gloss clearcoat. It's a bit harder to lay down than traditional paint, but it also air-dries and is applied over regular primer. I have C-series clear on a couple of bikes and a fork painted in blue titanium.

The H-series Cerakote is more consistent in many ways, but it does require an oven.

[contraptions]

The H-series Cerakote is more consistent in many ways, but it does require an oven.

DIY oven.  Holds +/-3C

[Sakizashi]

Guys, could you please explain a bit about the frame finish to me? I'm confused, and Alisa isn't exactly quick to respond, plus I don't want to bother her too much.

Realized no one answered your question.

The finishes are mostly right except that choice C is what they call matte UD. It is a clearcoat and surprisingly robust. its on the lower section of my frame. Mine is part gloss and part matte. The way they did it was matte first and then gloss over the gloss portion. Unfortunately for me, that made it heavier, and with the way the frame actually looks in real life, I would have likely gone with either of those.

[stepahin]

Realized no one answered your question.

The finishes are mostly right except that choice C is what they call matte UD. It is a clearcoat and surprisingly robust. its on the lower section of my frame. Mine is part gloss and part matte. The way they did it was matte first and then gloss over the gloss portion. Unfortunately for me, that made it heavier, and with the way the frame actually looks in real life, I would have likely gone with either of those.

Hmm, in your photo, your frame looks completely solid black both at the bottom and top. Can you see the carbon there? Maybe it's the lighting, but it's very different from "UD matte" (c.) photo where the frame is more gray and you can cearly see the carbon patches (this is what I want to get, not just matte solid back).

I mean this photo of yours:

[patliean1]

Would it be strange to put together a gallery of builds for the first post? I tend to use Imgur so the UK folks will be left out, but it might make a nice addition to the first page. I figure I would use just the ones in here, though Permeants has a few more builds on their webpage, so it would feature the builds from @Klrdd, @BeeMC, @eddyhaideli (fair is fair even if that is an official account for tideace) and and my own build.

I dont know if my own build is cool, but here it is set up for some cross.

Photos like these are the reason I'm addicted to building bikes.

[Sakizashi]

Hmm, in your photo, your frame looks completely solid black both at the bottom and top. Can you see the carbon there? Maybe it's the lighting, but it's very different from "UD matte" (c.) photo where the frame is more gray and you can cearly see the carbon patches (this is what I want to get, not just matte solid back).

I mean this photo of yours:

its subtle in photos but quite visible IRL. The clear might be tinted a little.

You can see it here in a prebuild photo which shows both the carbon and the matte.

[stepahin]

its subtle in photos but quite visible IRL. The clear might be tinted a little.

You can see it here in a prebuild photo which shows both the carbon and the matte.

Thanks! This is quite interesting! It's strange that in one case (on their website) the UD matte looks gray and the carbon surface and joints are clearly visible, while in another case (yours) the matte part is almost completely uniform and dark. Interesting. Alisa sent me another photo (attached) where, as she claims, one part is glossy and the other matte, just like yours. But it looks as if black paint/toner has been added there, and the carbon is no longer so clearly visible. Oook, I feel like I'm talking too much about this here haha, but I'm curious how I can get something that looks gray with the carbon clearly visible...

Same thing with SLC3, on a product image on their website I see carbon:
https://www.winspace.cc/cdn/shop/files/19_962838c9-4791-4cf2-8049-555a86975182.jpg?v=1735785439

But in the photos in the reviews, it's just matte black:
https://www.hambini.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/04/20250106-143931-scaled.jpg

[hobbyst]

First-time poster. This is my second bike from Long Teng, the first being the LTK 268 (Thank you @Serge_K for the recommendation). The LTK 266 handles noticeably differently from the 268. The bike went together fairly easily, I only had to drill the hole for the front derailleur cable, as it was too small.

I am having an issue with the top cap, it's rubbing on the frame when riding. I am using the LTK provided bearing and an LTK handlebar with their provided metal top cap and spacer. The provided bearings appear to be the correct size and Alisa has confirmed that too. I've ordered shims to hopefully remedy this issue -- any additional pointers are greatly appreciated!

LTK266-D-SL:
LTK HB09 Handlebar
Elite Wheels
LT-WOO ER9 3.0 + 105 parts
Selle Italia SLR Boost Saddle

Bike:
https://imgur.com/a/w9Ajdv1

Top bearing:
https://imgur.com/a/N3AtYhi

Does the spacing here look correct? My 268 had much less spacing.