Mondince new 2026 Aero Gravel

[v0llhirsch]

thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.

Ask ChatGPT to calculate the effective reach considering the seat tube angle. This one is very steep and brings you quite forward.
Based on my experience posted above, I would also recommend to consider your seat hight and required seat post length. The seat tube seems rather short and if you size down the frame too much, you might not reach the required height

[Grailer]

thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.

I went with the medium 420mm fork version, and it's 20cm longer and 20cm taller than my road bike (56.5cm). I opted for an 80mm stem, vs the 120mm on my road bike and bars with similar reach/drop.

My road bike is pretty long and low, so this seemed like a reasonable way to go. I got the frame yesterday and am working on building it up, and will share more of an update/opinion in the coming days.

[emilioea]

Tire clearance doesn't work that way. With a GRX FD I could easily fit 65mil tires if my frame allowed it

In my FM326 the GRX 810 FD is basically in line with the chainstay, so i can fit 50 mm with around 5-6 mm of clearance (6 mm is the ISO standard). If I used a road FD, I'd have 2.5 mm less clearance, so I'd have to use a 45 mm tire (or risk it with a very tight clearance, but I wouldn't want to run it that tight).
PS: when I bought the frame, the guy from Spcycle told me that the official clearance for 2x for this bike is 45 mm.

[emilioea]

I'm using a 12 spd 105 derailleur on mine as I had one spare and it doesn't effect tyre clearance at all.

If you use GRX cranks, they sit 2.5 mm outboard, so you have to set the low limit further away from the frame, so you're positioning the road FD in the same place the GRX FD would be. With road cranks you'd have to wind the low limit back 2.5 mm, moving it closer to the tire.

[gribs]

If you use GRX cranks, they sit 2.5 mm outboard, so you have to set the low limit further away from the frame, so you're positioning the road FD in the same place the GRX FD would be. With road cranks you'd have to wind the low limit back 2.5 mm, moving it closer to the tire.

There's approximately 5mm from the derailleur to the inside edge of the chain stay. That's set up with a GRX 600 series crankset so there should still be enough room with a road one fitted.

[emilioea]

There's approximately 5mm from the derailleur to the inside edge of the chain stay. That's set up with a GRX 600 series crankset so there should still be enough room with a road one fitted.

Mine seems to be almost at the inside of the chainstays level (GRX 810), at least visually. I'll try to measure the distance from the tire to the FD.

PS: I've measured it and I have 7 mm clearance from the tire (Schwalbe G-One R Pro 50 mm on 25 mm internal width rims, which measure 50 mm) to the GRX RX810 front derailleur. A road front derailleur with road cranks will then have 4.5 mm of clearance, which is below the 6 mm ISO standard. Therefore, officially you'd have to run 47 mm tires max to get the official ISO clearance. In practice, it'll probably be OK unless it is extremely muddy.

[Grailer]

Hi folks, is there supposed to be a crown race on the fork? Or does the lower bearing interface directly with the carbon?

Edit: Did some more research and I see with IS bearings and an angled bearing seat on the fork, a crown race isn't necessary. 

[uplined]

thats what I did already, but still some questionmarks as this frame would be longer than my road bike.
But cutting the stem from 110 to 80 should work.

What I did, I included all of the reach figures of all the components - handlebars, stem, frame and then compared the figures between the frames. Some bars can differ as much as 20 mm in reach.

[v0llhirsch]

Hi folks, is there supposed to be a crown race on the fork? Or does the lower bearing interface directly with the carbon?

Edit: Did some more research and I see with IS bearings and an angled bearing seat on the fork, a crown race isn't necessary. 

Yep, it's IS52.
I was pleasantly surprised when I could assemble everything without tools.
Also, maintenance, like switching out the bearings once they are done should be fairly easy

[emilioea]

What I did, I included all of the reach figures of all the components - handlebars, stem, frame and then compared the figures between the frames. Some bars can differ as much as 20 mm in reach.

This website is great:
https://www.bike-stats.de/en/geometrie_vergleich?Bike1=Mondince_FM326_2025_S

Here you get the frame geometry and then you can add the details of your stem, spacers, handlebar, etc and will calculate for you the BB to handlebar and saddle to handlebar distances, and you can compare to your previous bikes.

[Unsworn5836]

Well, did the math.
As the axle to crown is way higher, I'm going with a large.
Let's see, droppped tantan a message, whether they have something in stock.

[RDC]

My bike came yesterday and I finished around 90% of the build.
Along with the frame I ordered a pair of 9velo gravel wheels which showed up today.
Front wheel is ready, but I am waiting on another 50mm RX-PRO for the rear - which is fine, since the weather is pretty bad and I cannot ride anyway.

Build went smooth, even the rear break cable got through on the first attempt without any issues. I added some cable padding to prevent any cluttering, but that's it.
I made a mistake on the front break adapter and mounted it for the wrong diameter - not realizing that you could run 180mm. Lucky as I am, I had enough cable to pull it down and mount it for 160mm :-)

The stock seat post was way too short to reach my saddle height, but I simply re-used the seat post from my old bike.
I opted against integrated handlebars until I can figure out my reach and stack dimensions, but for me it looks nice enough as it is.

Components I used:

Frame
Frame: Mondince FM326
Size: M
Fork: 420mm

Drivetrain & brakes
shift/brake levers: SRAM Rival AXS D1
brake system: SRAM Rival AXS D1 (160/160)
rear derailleur: SRAM GX AXS, 12 speed
bottom bracket: SRAM DUB Road Wide
crankset: SRAM Rival E1 Wide, Powermeter Spindle, Dub, 42T - 165mm
cassette: SRAM XG-1275, 10-52T
chain: Sram X01
pedals: Shimano XT M8120

Cockpit
headset: PRO Headset Integrated Cable Routing (I prefered this one to the stock option for the cable routing below the stem)
stem: DEDA Mud Peak - 80 mm +/-6º
bar: Newmen Advanced Gravel Bar 318 - 420mm ("liberated" from my spouse since she is running 360mm)
handlebar tape: SRAM Red handlebar tape (wasn't the plan, my preferred PRO Race Silicon ripped while unwrapping it)
Spacer: ZTTO blue alloy spacer (from Aliexpress)

Wheels
wheelset: 9Velo 2026 Gravel Disc GB series 24H/24H - 28mm inner width
valves: 9velo stock, but with schwalbe click valves (SCV)
tyres: Schwalbe G-One RX Pro, TLR, 50-622

Seating
saddle: PRO Stealth Performance
seat post: PRO LT 400mm 27,2mm/ 0mm offset

--
In case you need to order SRAM brake parts:
For the rear you need 32mm flatmount screws (SRAM part: 00.5318.005.002) and the standard flatmount adapter for 160mm (it should be part 00.5318.018.001 - but I had that already here)

Front: use the Flat Mount 0F/20F | 140/160 mm (part number: 00.5318.018.000) for the front - it includes all bolts.
For 160mm discs, you need to build it with the 140mm side because that give you the effective range for 160mm. That's because the fork can take up to 180mm rotors.
If you want to actually run 180mm rotors, you need to switch the adapter to 160mm.

haha faced same issue with the front caliper! I had to disassemble again because I tape the cable to the steering tube and also all around to avoid cables rubbing the steerer tube


I’m amazed you could use the PRO headset, I was also looking for that one ore the ones from Ritchey and Token, but all use the standard IS52 depth for top bearing of 8.7mm, and this frame has like 7mm (WTF!), so I expected to have a large gap on the top cover.
How did you fix it? or does your bike has the proper 8.7mm?

[v0llhirsch]

I guess the question is what you accept as clearance in regards to potential mud and water coming in. I think this is fine but can understand that people want to have their headset closer to the frame. After all, a you could use the stock bearing with a 3rd party headset.
I made some pictures with zoom, so it might look like a large gap when in reality it is nearly not noticeable.

haha faced same issue with the front caliper! I had to disassemble again because I tape the cable to the steering tube and also all around to avoid cables rubbing the steerer tube


I’m amazed you could use the PRO headset, I was also looking for that one ore the ones from Ritchey and Token, but all use the standard IS52 depth for top bearing of 8.7mm, and this frame has like 7mm (WTF!), so I expected to have a large gap on the top cover.
How did you fix it? or does your bike has the proper 8.7mm?

[emilioea]

I used this headset Neco H322TP-1, since I preferred its compression ring and having the cables out from the sides instead of the one from SPCycle which had all four cables out from the front and a C-shaped compression ring:
https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html

which is supposed to be for 7 mm deep bearing seats, but I had to cut like 1 mm of the rubber seal all around the circunference to avoid rubbing (see attachment).

With that, the spacing looks great and no rubbing, so I guess the bearing seat is slightly more than 7 mm.

[RDC]

I guess the question is what you accept as clearance in regards to potential mud and water coming in. I think this is fine but can understand that people want to have their headset closer to the frame. After all, a you could use the stock bearing with a 3rd party headset.
I made some pictures with zoom, so it might look like a large gap when in reality it is nearly not noticeable.

Thanks! so it seems to be like 1mm - 1.5mm gap

I used this headset Neco H322TP-1, since I preferred its compression ring and having the cables out from the sides instead of the one from SPCycle which had all four cables out from the front and a C-shaped compression ring:
https://www.necoparts.com/en/product/H322TP-1.html

which is supposed to be for 7 mm deep bearing seats, but I had to cut like 1 mm of the rubber seal all around the circunference to avoid rubbing (see attachment).

With that, the spacing looks great and no rubbing, so I guess the bearing seat is slightly more than 7 mm.

That is the headset supplied by Mondince with the frame, but the top bearing is different, it’s a ACB518 with 51,8mm outer diameter and 8mm thick (upper headtube frame diameter is 52mm, and a 52mm diameter bearing will be tight because is designed for 52.2mm headtubes)
With such bearing the rubber cover sits well in place with no rubbing