Me wanting something that is "newer tech" costs in western branded frames 3 times as much like the latest P-series or shiv. Both difficult to get in frames but will take 30c and run disc's.

Hi All,

I currently run a fuji 2009 original spec in almost new condition, she is the fasted bike I have ever own for a little over 10 years. But I suspect I suffer a lot of lost watts from rolling resistance / crank bearings and not fully tuned setup.
 
After lots of reading across the web and here in particular is think I have narrowed down to a single Chinese manufacture. Frames I have looked at in no particular order. There were a few other brands but I dismissed them quickly for various reasons:
Trifox - No TT frames
Airwolf - No TT frames
Yoeleo - No TT frames
lightcarbon- No Disc brake versions
Twitter - No TT frames
ICAN - No TT frames
Falco - Can't find a website and alix is all old resellers (I read somewhere the molds have been purchased but no real details)
TanTan - No TT frames
Winspace - No TT frames although the T1550 is close (seat tube angle might be too great)
Winow Sports - TT119 but not sold on the look.
Seraph - TT912 has press in BB. Feels a bit old looks like the TT119
Elves - No reviews on their V frame, only one I could find said it "could" be sloppy and has a max weight limit of 100kg. I am a heavier rider but no there yet. Also looks like very mixed quality from their frames still.
VeloBuild - VB-TT-023 I saw a recent build on here and was also leaning towards this based on their frame reviews before looking at the build-up

The bike is primarily for Full Ironman events. One event per year plus the 1000's of km of training rides (Once a week averaging 100 - 150 kms), the rest is done on a indoor trainer bike.

The planned build will be if I can settle on a frame:
Tektro HD-T910 brakes
Sram force ASX running gear (24 speed) with wireless blips (3d printed mounts for the blips)
EliteWheels Full disc rear, 80s spoked on the front (considered the 3 spoke carbon as well). With maybe an 80 spoked spare rear, for race day if cross winds are too much.
EC90 seat

Now for the questions:
Have I missed any frames that people would recommend? Given Elves was top of my budget for a frame, any higher and I will pickup a western brand (I know) from a local store. But the price point is just too much.
For the people who have built the VB-TT-023 or any other disc brake based TT bike how is the ride after months. Is there anything I should look out for?
With the Alix double 11 sales coming up is it better to get from the website and try to ask for a price match or to get it from the "alix offical store"?

The VB frames in general have mixed reviews but seem to have more +ve reviews than most others who do TT bikes, hence why I am leaning towards them.
This is not going to be a cheap build in local currency but I should have a very competitive bike (maybe no the rider) once all is done and hopefully I get another good 10 years out of the bike.

Thanks for all your input.

I notice the BB of all the other frames are BB386 or BB86 both of which are press fit (is it considered old tech now?). Given this is my first bike build since the 90's (yes I am an old fecker), I was steering towards a frame with the T47 BB.

People talk about frame creaking (misaligned) with the BB386 / BB86 and also that if pressed incorrectly can damage the carbon, crack the frame etc..
But on the other hand the T47 isn't without it problems with alignment being one of the biggest issues and causing drag on the crank bearings. The other being ali bonding to the carbon is difficult. Given this is a high load area that is a little concerning.

Anyone have some real life experience with the different frame tolerances in that area between press fit and screw fit?
BB creak on the frames and tight crank normally requiring a little more effort (a slight love tap with a hammer) to get in place.

Thank you all once again for your knowledge.

BB386 / BB86 shouldnt be used to run DUB / 30mm spindles (bearings end up too thin & dont last). So T47 is more versatile / more modern.
Assuming the OEM that made the frame is competent enough,  BB386 / BB86 is fine. Peak Torque has recently mentioned that Shimano BB (the ghetto 2 plastic cups version) is the unsung hero of  BB386 / BB86, because it's very forgiving of poor QC / manufacturing tolerances. I've been using ZTTO alu sleeves BB (2 bits that screw together) for all the BB386 / BB86 frames i've built (on the giant propel i rebuilt there was a rivet in the way so i had to use a shimano in fact), and i've now been using liqui moly 3312 on every conceivable surface, and it's been great. Mechanically, an alu sleeve should be stiffer than the Shimano cups, and it's cheap and easy to order from Alix.
So. All else equal, get the T47 because it's more versatile & future proof. But if you prefer frame A over B, and only B has T47, then dont worry and get A.