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Messages - mark335

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1
Question about geometry as I am considering this frame.  I am 175cms, 80cms in seam. Currently ride a Medium Giant TCR with 5mm spacer, 110mm stem.  Would a size 480 or 510 be more suited for me?

Hi 174/83 seam here and I would go with 480.
Currently riding on 384mm+531mm

2
Yes. I have 2 different ones, tried again earlier at 8nm and it slips. I really need 10-11nm to make it tight.

I had similar issue. I overtight compression plug and nothing happend as long as you tight it up with tighting stem in the same time. In such a case, the walls of the steerer tube rest against the walls of the stem.

3
Evolve Cima, Cannondale Supersix looking frame

4
Hi,

After disassembling the T47, I found water inside the frame—it must have gotten in during washing.
I got T47 with aluminium shell. Quick question: is it okay to drill a small hole in the carbon frame under the bottom bracket area to drain the water? I wouldn’t hesitate with an aluminum frame, but what about carbon? I’ve seen some frames with drain holes, but mine doesn’t have one.

5
Also finally finished the build for my girlfriend’s sister (Size 52cm for 173cm height, 81.5 cm inseam). She’s super happy, the bike feels responsive and the build up was almost hassle free (except for getting the headset play right).

Stem: Deda Superbox 90mm
Handlebars: Deda Zero2 400mm
Wheels: XM Carbon Speed D50CU 28-21 with GP5000
Shimano 105 Di2 Groupset

Everything together roughly under 7.6kg.

Can you link to disc breake rotors?

6
My local bike shop. Genuine SRAM DUB T47. Being said I had one of the bearings give out after 700 kms which is hardly better than a KACTUS one I bought for my other bike. My solution was to replace the bearings only - Going on 1000 km now.

 FWIW the KACTUS one was near $50 and the SRAM one was $75 CDN

 The bearings for the KACTUS BB were $10 each locally and the bearings for the SRAM BB (MR3040H7-2RS) from Ali were near $20 for 4 - local shop would have to order them AND they were more $$ than Ali.

Very quickly this bearing blew out, 700km is not much.
I'm intrigued by this topic because I also have a T47 86mm in my frame (bxt) and installed bb Token. I have the same thing, the first bearings lasted 2000km then started to squeak, the second Token bb 1000km and the same symptom. The strange thing is that they don't have a rolling problem, they just squeak. Now I ordered bb Kactus, which has a flange on the bearing - that is, there is no metal-to-metal contact between the bearing and the crank axle. I wonder if this will solve the problem and what the reason is:
- friction between the metal-to-metal contact
- misaligned bb t47
- poor quality bearings

7
Shimano crankarms are genuine. But are you not covered by warranty? Did you take it to a shop? They offer free upgrades for any de-bonded last 2 generations ultegra/duraace crankarms

The reason for replaces is not related with debonding. I got it from second hand. And after 3000 km axle is polished and rusted due to bb misalignment most probably which is making a creaking noises.

8
Hi, I will have to replace my R8000 crank arm.
Do you have any experience with Shimano crankarm/cranksets from Aliex?
Are these original and trustable?
Do you recommend any shops?

E.g:
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006791987138.html
https://aliexpress.com/item/1005006641267317.html

9
All 3 friends are now riding their bikes. All 3 are beginners as road bike users, big picture. 1 is a pro athlete, but not in bikes. 1 is an aero space engineer. 1 is an oil & gas engineer. they all managed to build the frame fine. They all seem happy.
I got them kick ass bikes and the result seems to be a non event, really, maybe it's a good thing :) 1 is super happy that the bike is full custom. the other 2 are just riding the bike tinkering with their position (the engineers, go figure).
so... yeah, unsure how helpful all that can be :)
They're all on conti gp5000 30C, 33 wide, 50 deep wheels from peter, and the R06 from Peter. Then the components and specs differ between bikes.

Also, having put 11,000km on my own chinese frame, ultimately, it's just a bike. If you buy something that fits you, that fits the riding you do, unless you're a pretty serious statistical anomaly, if you get the frame from a reputable seller (that's a big if), then you should be fine. From the dozen builds i've done, that's probably the main takeaway. I have a world champion friend on a trek emonda, it's just the wrong bike to ride on the flat with us, as we're all on aero bikes. That's not kool aid, that's physics. And a 400$ frame will get you there just as well as a 2000 one, afaik, if you choose wisely.

My current conclusion about all this is as follows: a branded bike off the shelf will cost you more and fit you less well than a custom OEM bike, IF you know what to order. My friend on the trek is on the wrong bike. One on a van rysel is on the wrong bars (and shitty gearing, and hookless zipp rims). one on an aeroad is on the wrong gearing. And changing anything on branded bikes instantly costs a fortune, when it really shouldnt.

I didn't expect that long lecture on Chinese frames  ;D
As your friends are beginners, I understand that they have no comparison to other road frames in terms of handling, stiffness, comfort etc.
I know for and against Chinese frames, currently riding on my first build - BXT 145, but I got issues with creaking BB and creak near setpost area, that is why I am looking for something new. I am interested in Cannondale Supersix looking frame, I was even supposed to vote for TanTan x69, but after fork failure in X68. I resigned and moved to CS-R06 about which Your review is first one on forum. If you could deliver a few photos of ready builds, I would be pleased to.

P.S.
It is hard for me to believe and agree with you that guy on emonda is dropped back due to frame aerodynamic ;D

10
Tangentially relevant:
CS-R06 road frameset M size in UD black gloss & D50CU-33 T1100 rims 21/21H UD paintless. A friend just finished his build.
He had no specific problems during the build (was his first build).
I didnt buy the cockpit from Peter because i wanted 36cm. The interface is universal, so anything that's standard will work.
7.4kg with pedals, bottle cages & everything, and the pedals are the most basic i could find, and the bottle cages are aluminum, so it's probably a 7.2kg bike without cutting corners (extra long compression plug for safety, 30C tyres, wide rims, 52/36, 11-34, 160 front and rear rotors, ER9 with old generation calipers that are heavy AF. So, easily a 7kg bike with a few mods.
He doesnt have much to say about ride quality yet, he just finished building it.

@Serge_K, waiting for feedback about ride impressions on that frame, please  ;D

11
So why can’t I find this frame on their site and also trying to find geometry of this frame.  Any helps is appreciated.

Here you have all frames from XM
https://xmcarbonspeed.cc/collections/carbon-framesets

12
Hi guys, I did not want to create similar post with the same requirement, but do you know if on chinese market exisit similar frame to Basso Astra or Diamante?
I am also looking for high stack/low reach, good looking frame, especially horizontal top tube.

Astra 51        S/R 563,4/374,5
Diamante 51  S/R 546.2/378,6

The only frame which comes to my mind is CS-R06 from Peter, but I hope you will know more  ;)

13
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: Xmcarbonspeed CS-R01 build
« on: January 02, 2025, 11:02:36 AM »
@Icyseanfitz, I'am wainting for more photos of full build  :)

14
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Re: BXT Pro 145 Anyone?
« on: December 17, 2024, 01:52:06 AM »
Hi there, from my side I did not recommend this frame. I had problems with slack on headset (too short bearrings). You are not able to proper mount front derailleur mechanic ultegra r8000 because it's rubbing against own cable armor and can not change for little gear  :'( . cracking carbon around saddle post. There is no EPS moulding and from I read on forum there are better frames in that price.

15
I am next guy here with issues with rear hub CSCT31. I got the same clicking and skipping when re-pedaling after freewheeling.
It happens around 3 times per 100 km in my case. I re-lubricate free hub but it did not help. CSC seller send me new free hub which did not help. I also got new rear hub from him but i didn't replace it yet.

I found this crap hub on aliex: https://shorturl.at/VWjDB

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