Are there any pictures of a size XS frame/bike?

"From what I've learned on Chinese social media, Evolve's original manufacturer stopped working with them because their order volume was too low. They're now looking for a new factory."

From the thread on weightweenies.

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2012826#p2012821

Quote from: Matsuo on September 22, 2026, 04:08:43 AM
Thanks for your questions.

Well, I don't want to hijack the thread author's post with the details of my CIMA GR build. 

I've mounted the Pathfinder in 50mm front and rear. Running them at 1.8 to 1.9 bar, they work flawlessly in dry conditions. I've now ordered the 2.2 version as well as the Tracer in 700x50 to have alternatives for wet weather.

I should mention that this gravel bike is clearly designed as an aero race gravel bike, so in my opinion, putting an MTB tire on this frame doesn't make much sense.

The protection cover tape was included with the Evolve Kreuza Top Tube Bag and was just barely long enough.

Please let us know if the 2.2's fits! Thanks for posting.

Quote from: Jr on September 22, 2026, 09:31:36 AM
I expect the clearance would be closer to 4,5 - 5mm with 48 Thundero because of the height of the tire. Tire height Thundero 48 is about 2,5mm higher to 44mm Thundero

My setup:
Front Thundero 48
Back Thundero 44

Thank you for posting. Your information and pictures are greatly appreciated!

Quote from: Matsuo on September 21, 2026, 04:21:23 AM
With the Pathfinder 700x50 TLR on a 24mm inner width rim and 1.9 bar it looks quite OK.

Thanks for the photo! I have two questions:

1. How are the tires? Apparently the 2.2 tested really well but seems like they won't fit so I'm also thinking about the 50 mm instead.

2. What frame protection tape are you using and where did you get?

Thanks again!

Have you tried fitting bigger tires? I'm was curious about the clearance with 50 mm's. I was convinced after seeing your photos (can't see the photos from FB anymore) showing the clearance but a poster on the weight weenies forum said that with a measured 50.2 mm tire the clearance was only 2.75 mm on the rear. I was hoping I could fit pathfinder 2.2's but seems like that was a foolish long shot.

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2009447&sid=dae0052a329b030d312edfcad2040c2e#p2009447

So they offer three different hubs: 20/20, 18/18 and now a 16/16? Is there difference in the ride feel besides the weight? Does the rim flex more with less spokes? Is price the same for all hubs?

Quote from: glepore on September 18, 2025, 08:22:47 AM
I have a couple pair of Elicit clones. Really like these, crazy light, frameless, high contrast tint. The originals have Zeiss lenses, and I doubt these are anywhere near as good, but they work great for me.

Do you have a link to these? Thanks in advance.

Quote from: bullsei on September 04, 2025, 12:31:09 PM
I'm just about finished with my 105 Di2 build and thought I'd share a little workaround I came up with for the battery install in case it helps anyone else.

The stock clip that's supposed to hold the battery under the seatpost never seated properly for me—the tabs just wouldn't click into the holes on the post. The "proper" fix would probably be trimming a couple millimeters off the seatpost, but I wasn't too keen on that.

Instead, I went with a simpler solution: I added two small zip ties to the battery so I can pull it out easily after sliding it into the seattube. One zip tie holds the second in place, which acts as a little grab handle. The battery sits in the seatpost with the connectors facing up, and the extra cable tucks neatly inside.

With a bit of wiggling (but no force) the battery slides all the way into the narrower section of the seattube and is still very easy to remove. For reference, it sits about 20 cm down from the seattube opening to the top of the battery. The seatpost itself goes in just as far as it would without the battery/wiring (sticky layer fully inserted), and I was also able to use the hole behind the front derailleur mount without any trouble

I hope this is useful for others facing the same issue.

Thanks for the tip!

I have never installed a Di2 battery before and this looks like a good solution compared to sanding down the seatpost. However, I'm a little bit confused. If the battery slides into the seatpost by itself, would it not also slide out when you insert the seatpost into the frame? What is holding the battery inside the seatpost so that it doesn't slide out? Sorry if I misunderstood you.

Quote from: hsaus on April 28, 2025, 07:02:41 AM
The longer one is not intended for larger cassettes, but is instead for Shimano direct mount (https://wheelsmfg.com/blog/standard-mount-vs-direct-mount-derailleur-hangers.html), so that shadow-style derailleurs can be mounted without the B-link. I ordered one for my G056, but I haven't installed it yet.

I have a Ltwoo GRT with a 10-50 cassette and the derailleur won't clear the biggest cogs even with b-screw maxed out so I'm guessing I need a direct mount hanger too. Where did you buy yours?

This was linked before but it's like €35. Is that price really correct? I was thinking about getting a spare hanger too but that's €70 for two small pieces of metal.

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805681487924.html

Quote from: jonathanf2 on May 15, 2025, 11:36:27 AM
Just get the coat hanger and fish that cable out. That's my last resort tool for issues like this.

For future reference, if a chain stay and BB area has ample room, I would just use the plastic cable sleeve to guide the RD cable through. For the RF25/G056 frame, I don't even think I bothered with the magnetic cable tool.

I was using the white plastic cable to guide the shifter cable but the it couldn't pass through. I thought there was a weird bend so tried from the other way (from the bb) and it got stuck.

As expected, the seller have not helped at all. A week of telling them the same thing over and over and we're still on square 1.

Any advice? I guess I could shove a coat hanger in there but unsure what to do next. I'm so confused to what the cable could have gotten stuck on.

Here's a video: https://imgur.com/a/h7tXFUh

Quote from: Jouke on May 08, 2025, 11:07:42 AM
stuck? As in you cant get the cable out of there any more?

The passage is very narrow and a real pain in butt but I managed to do it also. Stay patient,. change angles and 'push and pull' at the same time. I wouldnt worry about damaging it too much. Stay patient

Yes, the routing kit cable (with the magnet on it) is stuck inside the chain-stay. I've tried every direction with the magnet and it won't move. I have tried pulling on it pretty hard but not full force because I don't wanna accidentally burrow the cable deeper if it's caught on something. Unsure how it could get that stuck, I was guiding it using the magnet and then suddenly, boom, stuck and I couldn't back out.

Quote from: Ludo on May 08, 2025, 05:44:18 AM
chainstay passage is pretty narrow, it took me a few attempts feeding from the back IIRC to get it through

At first I also tried from the back following the plastic liner but there was a hard stop. So I thought there might be a bend so I tried the other way, from the BB and that's when it got stuck.

It took me 3 hours but I finally got the bolt in enough to hold the adapter. I now have a different problem:

I was using my cable routing kit through the chain-stay to get to the rear derailleur and it got stuck. It's the drive side chain-stay. What could it have gotten stuck on and how do I resolve it? I don't have those small cameras to see inside the frame. I'm scared that it's loose carbon sheets (?) and that the chain-stay is defect and maybe not safe to ride.

I messaged the seller and asked for their opinion but I don't have high hopes of them offering a solution.