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Messages - NicoCarbonH

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1
Thanks for the info, I’ll take a closer look at it!

2
Thanks a lot for the info and the link, really appreciate you sharing it! It’s very helpful for my research:)

3
This is part of the myth that is often peddled by many people here. IME, this is not true. From what I have gathered, the general expertise is primarily in mold design, layup, and structural design. The latter is where there is overlap with many factories and top bike brands. This type of overlap, though, is necessary and something you see in every industry where a company leans on its supply base for innovation. The reason so many of these Chinese companies currently have struggles with bearings wearing out after a season of riding, endcaps that don't fit, seatposts that slip, headset bearings, and front ends that don't fit together correctly, etc., is that their product development processes are either not mature or don't exist. This gap is significant and is also why Chinese brands Seka, Evolve, and QuickPro have found room to operate, and why their prices are significantly higher than those of the OEMs they use or are a part of.

For some of these frames, gaps are closed by members of this forum, who provide fixes and redesign parts that should work out of the box. For example, how many collective hours went into troubleshooting the Velobuild headsets?

Of course, there are exceptions. I 100% would trust Peter from XM Carbonspeed to develop a product, but he isn't cheap. ;D.
who is Peter ? Proxy? Seller? Thk u.

4
There has been an uptick of individuals joining this forum with blatantly self-serving behavior, yet failing to read the room of whom the experienced folks are in here.

I'm not the morality or etiquette police. And this isn't Weight Weenies. This is sub-genre forum of well-meaning people who can look past the BS of most major brands. Perhaps contributing in a productive manner rather than disregarding the people who have already answered your question would have you fare better in here.

We looking forward to seeing your contributions in the coming months.
Thanks for the reminder — I fully understand the spirit of this forum, and it’s exactly why I’m here: out of respect for the quality of discussions and the depth of knowledge being shared.

That said, I’m not sure what specific behavior you’re referring to. I do take the time to read through the replies people post — especially when they’re sharing useful insights or technical details I can actually learn from.

I’m not here to take shortcuts or rehash basic topics, but to genuinely understand what’s possible with high-end OEM frames, and to engage with people who’ve already dug deep into this world.

I know I’m not an expert — that’s why I’m here. I’m asking questions in good faith, trying to learn, and doing my best to contribute when I can.

So yes, I’m here to participate constructively, and I look forward to being part of the conversation in the long run. Appreciate the welcome, and see you in the tech threads

5
I'm sorry i offended you.
I never wrote “all frames are basically the same once the sticker’s off”
I never wrote “there’s no real difference” between frames.

You so clearly dont know what you're talking about, it's crazy that you have the hubris to attack users.

Consider dealing with your fragile ego, learning what nuance means, and good luck.
Thanks for your reply my ego is doing just fine don’t worry;)

I can understand that the tone of my initial message may have come across as a bit sharp — that wasn’t my intention at all. I wasn’t aiming at anyone personally, nor trying to create any tension.

My goal here is simply to learn as much as possible in order to carry out a project that really matters to me.
I’m not an expert — and that’s exactly why I’m here: to ask questions, understand the technical differences between OEM frames, and learn from people with more experience.

I’m currently looking for a high-quality OEM frame, with a demanding set of criteria, and I’m fully prepared to put a real budget into it — not to build a showroom bike, but something personal, based on informed and deliberate choices from start to finish.

That’s why I’m digging into topics like EPS molding, layup structure, and manufacturing tolerances.

If my message came off as too blunt or too direct, I apologize — it wasn’t meant that way. I’m not here to challenge anyone or create conflict.

I’m here to learn, share ideas, and move forward with my project, while respecting everyone’s input and experience.

Thanks again for your reply — I’m looking forward to more constructive and technical discussions ahead.

6
If you knew more about the OEM market, you'd probably realize that there's less difference between your dream frame and a 500$ frame, i can guarantee you that. It doesn't sound like you have a great grasp of the value chain, where markups are added and so on. That said, by all means, spend your money. You want a boutique bike, kudos to you, enjoy it.

One interesting recent note: Sander on the forum, riding his Sworks and his tantan, wrote that riding the sworks now gives him anxiety because of how much money he sunk in it, and the fear of breaking something on it. I thought that made a ton of sense. I have a friend with an sworks, he's kind of the same. I made him ride 2 gravel sections in the last few weeks during rides, both super tame, and he went aaaaaape shit because he was afraid his frame would get scratched. He straight up insulted me. He kind of spent his wife's money on it.

I'll go wipe down the sweat on my $400 frame now :)

Ah yes, the classic “all frames are basically the same once the sticker’s off” theory.
Thanks for the OEM economics 101, really enlightening. I guess the only thing separating a 500$ clone from a clean EPS-molded T1100 layup is… ignorance? Or maybe a sticker printer shortage in Shenzhen?
Appreciate the perspective — but let’s not confuse price with spec.

I’m not chasing logos or paying retail markups. I’m not building a wall ornament either. This is a focused, research-driven build exploring the upper edge of OEM capabilities:
   •   EPS molding only (no bladders)
   •   Layups with verified high-modulus zones
   •Target frame weight under 800g
   •Confirmed geometry, tolerances and molding method

That’s a different pursuit from buying generic shells and crossing fingers.
If someone wants a $500 gravel beater and sleeps well at night — good for them.

But saying “there’s no real difference” between a carefully engineered layup and a random bladder-molded replica? That only shows you’ve never studied real layups up close — let alone cracked one open.

And sure, if I already knew everything about the OEM world, I’d clearly not be here asking smart people for help, right?
Anyway, cool story about your friend having trauma over his S-Works. Sounds like he needs a therapist more than a new bike;)

7
If you have 4000 euro to spend, get the legitimate one. The reason we explore OEM is because of ultimate C/P ratio. 4000 euro for a frame is far from that, try 500 USD.

Also, the biggest myth here is not the QA reject thing, it is the T1100 you are asking for, I am not even talking about whether it is really used for frames, ever thought there is only a single layer of T1100 even when they claimed they used T1100? Do you believe it makes a significant difference in terms of stiffness?

Thanks for the feedback, but let me clarify a few things because this project is being misunderstood:

1️⃣ “Why not just buy a legitimate frame?”
I’m not looking for a typical cost-per-performance OEM deal at $500. My goal is a high-spec raw carbon frame, close to what Specialized does with the S-Works SL8 (EPS molding, mixed T1100/T800 layup, <800g, raw UD finish).
A legitimate new S-Works frame costs over €5,500. If I can source a QA reject or surplus factory frame with verifiable layup quality for €4,000, that’s actually good value considering the tech involved.

2️⃣ “T1100 is a myth / just one layer”
I’m fully aware of this marketing trick. I’m not asking for full T1100, which is unrealistic. What I’m after is a frame with EPS molding and confirmed T1100 layers strategically placed (head tube, BB, stays), similar to FACT 12r layup. This is exactly how top brands achieve stiffness-to-weight – it’s not about slapping one decorative layer of T1100.

3️⃣ “Resale value matters”
Resale is completely irrelevant here. This is a prototype-level build, meant to be a unique, custom bike – not something to flip later. If resale was the goal, I’d just buy a used Canyon or Giant and be done.

In short, I’m not chasing cheap carbon nor blindly believing marketing claims. I’m specifically exploring real factory-sourced, EPS-molded frames with credible high-end layups. That’s a very different discussion from generic $500 clones

8
Would you really speed 4000 usd in an unknown brand with a low resell value instead buying a real brand bike in slightly used condition ?
Yes, because it’s not about reselling or anything like that – I just wanted to build a fully custom bike and have a high-quality raw carbon frame. Of course, if I can’t find a good alternative, I’ll go with well-known brands like Canyon, but I first want to explore what’s available in OEM options.

9
Thanks a lot to everyone for the detailed replies – this is incredibly helpful.

From what you’re saying, it sounds like the idea of getting a true OEM or QA reject frame (from a top-level factory, unused, unpainted) is basically impossible nowadays.

I’m curious though – was this ever really a thing in the past, or has it always been more of a myth used by sellers to make their replica frames sound more legitimate?

Thanks again for all your answers – this has helped me a lot

10
Yeah, it’s getting hard to find Chinese frames with proper semi-internal routing these days. Almost every new open-mold is fully hidden through the headset now.

If you’re looking for modern geometry and 38–42 mm tire clearance without fully hidden routing, you still have a few options:
   •   SPCycle G058 – semi-internal, T47 BB, up to 50 mm clearance.
   •   LightCarbon LCG071 (older batches) – semi-internal, similar clearance, sometimes still in stock if you ask.
   •   Some sellers on Taobao/WeChat still have older molds (2020–2022) with semi-internal routing – search for “旧款半内走线”.

Otherwise, you might need to look for used frames or ask manufacturers if they can still do a semi-internal version on request

11
why evolve cima precisely?

12
Road Bike Frames, Wheels & Components / Respond
« on: July 29, 2025, 01:23:38 PM »
No the 2025 id 5,500€ on specialized

13
Hi everyone,

I’m currently looking for a high-end road bike frame that matches as closely as possible the Specialized S-Works SL8 FACT 12r, ideally as an OEM, surplus, or QA reject (not a replica or low-cost clone).

My technical requirements:
   •   Carbon: Toray T1000 , at least in critical zones (BB, HT, chainstays, downtube) – with proof of layup or credible declaration.
   •   Molding: EPS / 3D latex inner molding only (no bladder molding), clean internal finish.
   •   Geometry: As close as possible to the SL8 race geometry.
   •   Weight: <800 g for size 52/54, bare frame.
   •   Finish: UD raw, clear thin matte varnish (no paint, no logos).
   •   BB standard: T47 (68 mm or similar).
   •   Origin: Verified factory surplus or OEM production (Taiwan or China) – not generic open mold unless it meets all above specs.
   •   Budget: Up to €2500 all included (frame + fork + customs + proxy fees).

Already evaluated:
   •   LightCarbon LCR017-D → good EPS molding, 760–830 g, but only T700+T800+T1000 (no T1100).
   •   LightCarbon LCR018-D → includes T1100 but is an endurance/all-road frame (~980 g), not suitable.
   •   Contacted several sellers (Dongguan etc.) → mainly replicas, not genuine OEM or surplus.

I’m looking for:
   •   Verified OEM suppliers with real SL8-like frames (T1000 layup, EPS molding).
   •   Factory contacts (WeChat, Xianyu, Taobao) for QA rejects or surplus units.
   •   Anyone who has successfully sourced such a frame and can share leads or trusted proxies.

Thanks a lot for any help or PM contacts – I’m ready to buy if the frame meets these requirements.

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